Ex  Libris 

Henry  H.  Bucher,  Jr. 
Cat  Garlit  Bucher 


DT  471    .T45  1860 
Thomas,  Charles  W. ,   1926-  i 
Adventures  and  observations 
on  the  west  coast  of 


LiRRr-  " 

z  5  ^003 


THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY 


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ADVENTURES  ASD  OBSERVATIONS 


WEST  COAST  'OF  AFRICA, 

AND  ITS  ISLAKDS. 

HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  SKETCHES  OP 

JLiDEIRA,  CANARY,  BIAFRA  AND  CAPE  YERD  ISLANDS; 

THEIR    CLIMATES,   INHABITANTS    AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

ACCOUNTS  OF  PLACES,  PEOPLES,   CUSTOMS,  TRADE, 
MISSION" ARY  OPERATIONS,  ETC.,  ETC., 

On  that  part  of  the  African  coast  lying  between  Tangier,  Morocco  and 
Benguela. 


REV.  CHAS.  TV.  THOMAS,  M.A., 

UEMOER  OP  THE  OEOROIA  CONFEREKCS  ;  CHAPLAIS  TO  THE  AFRIC.VN  SQUADROM  IS 

1S55,  1856  A.ND  1557. 


WITH  ILLTJi;iiiU^^(m8<^(U^RR{GSll^^Gj&^6^ 


DERBY  &  JACKSON,  119  NASSAU  ST. 
1860. 


.9 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  tlic  year  1860,  by 

DERBY  &  JACKSON, 

In  tlie  Cleric's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern  District  of 
New  York. 


Wii.  H.  TiKSON,  Stercolypcr. 


Geo.  Rirasiu.  A  Co.,  Frinten. 


G-EORC3-E  J^IVL^  ^HID.,  TJ.  S.  :N"^"VY, 

LATE  FLEET  SURGEON  OP  THE  C.  S.  SQUADRON  ON  THE  COAST  OF  AFRICA, 
TO  TTHOSE  CHRISTIAN  SPIRIT,  VARIED  LEARNING, 
AND  UNIFORM  ATTACHMENT  AS  A  FRIEND, 
I  AM  INDEBTED  FOR  MANY  HAPPY  AND  PROFITABLE  HOURS 
IN    THE    COURSE    OF    A    WEARISOME  CRUISE, 
AND  CHEERFUL  MEMORIES  OF 
ADVENTURES    IN    FOREIGN    LANDS  ; 


RKV.  .AJL.nREr>  T.  ^.:VI.,  ID.Ti., 

OF  THE  GEORGIA  CONFERENCE, 
THE    FRIEND    OP    MY    BOYHOOD  ; 
WHO,  WHEN  I  WAS  A  STRANGER  TOOK  ME  IK, 
AND  -WHEN  SICK  VISITED  ME, 
THIS    VOLUME    IS    DEDICATED    AS    A    TOKEN    OF  THE 
GRATITUDE  AND  LOVE  OF 

THE  AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


The  chapters  wMcli  form  this  volume  were  prepared 
originally  for  the  "  Southern  Christian  Advocate,"  at 
the  request  of  the  Georgia  Conference.  Since  their 
appearance  in  the  "Advocate,"  the  author  has  been 
urged  to  publish  them  in  book  form  b  j  numerous  friends 
and  strangers,  among  whom  are  the  leading  ministers 
of  his  own  denomination,  distinguished  clergymen  of 
other  churches,  and  officers  of  the  United  States  Navy, 
whose  reputations  give  importance  to  their  opinions. 

If  the  author  feels  any  reluctance  in  complying  with 
these  flattering  solicitations,  it  is  chiefly  because  the 
chapters  were  composed  hastily,  and  the  duties  of  his 
profession  will  not  allow  of  his  re\vriting  them.  This 
scruple,  however,  is  overcome  by  the  assistance  of  a 
friend,  who  kindly  suggests,  that  as  the  author  has  no 
literary  reputation  to  lose,  he  risks  nothing  in  publish- 
ing without  waiting  for  time  to  rewrite. 

Justice  to  the  work  requires  it  to  be  said,  that  the 
errors  and  accidental  omissions  of  the  original  articles 


vi 


PEEFACE. 


have  been  corrected,  and  much  useful  information 
added. 

The  matter  of  the  ^vork  -was  gathered  in  the  course 
of  the  years  1855,  '56,  and  '57,  during  the  greater  por- 
tion of  which  time  the  author  was  attached  to  the  U.  S. 
sloop-of-war  Jamestown,  then  flag-ship  of  the  African 
squadron.  Tlirough  the  kindness  of  friends  on  the 
coast  and  in  the  islands,  he  is  enabled  to  bring  down 
much  of  the  statistical  matter  to  the  close  of  1858.  The 
historical  sketches  have  been  made  out  with  care  ;  the 
statistics  of  trade,  missions,  etc.,  were,  for  the  greater 
part,  gathered  on  the  spot,  from  persons  or  documents 
of  authority,  and  not  Avithout  much  labor. 

The  author  flatters  himself  that,  whatever  may  be  the 
defects  of  the  work  in  style  or  arrangement,  the  matter 
which  it  contains  will  be  found  reliable  and  useful.  In 
his  attempts  at  describing  places  and  peoples,  his  desire 
has  been  to  make  pi'ominent  such  facts  and  objects  as 
may  interest  the  general  reader,  and  be  of  practical 
value  to  the  voyagers  who  shall  come  after  him,  the 
Trader,  the  Cruiser,  and  the  Missionary. 

Should  these  pages  revive  any  pleasant  reminiscences 
in  the  minds  of  his  old  shipmates,  or  serve  to  relieve 
the  tedium  of  the  cruiser's  life  on  the  African  station, 
they  will  not  have  been  written  in  vain. 

Should  they  contribute  anything  toward  correcting 
prevailing  errors  res^jecting  the  colonies  of  civilized 
blacks,  and  the  state  of  Christian  missions  on  the  West 
Coast,  or  increase  in  any  degree  the  interest  Avhich  the 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


American  churches  are  taking  in  the  salvation  of  be- 
nighted Africa,  he  will  feel  amply  repaid  for  the  labor 
which  he  has  bestowed. 

To  Eev.  J.  Lighten  Wilson's  "  Western  Africa,"  the 
author  is  indebted  for  several  thoughts  respecting 
Congo.  To  the  Kev.  D.  A.  Wilson  and  Eev.  E.  T. 
Williams,  Presbyterian  missionaries  to  Liberia  ;  to  Rev. 
J.  W.  Horne,  late  missionary  of  the  Methodist  Episco- 
pal Church  in  Monrovia  ;  and  to  Kev.  J.  Rambo,  of 
the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  in  Liberia,  the  author 
is  indebted  for  valuable  information,  and  still  more 
for  bi'otherly  kindness  and  affection,  which  are  but 
poorly  repaid  by  this  cordial  acknowledgment. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Premisory — Morocco — Extensive  Influence — Obscure  History — Indomi- 
table— Unchanging — Recollections  of  Boyish  Dreams,  and  Prospect  of 
Fulfillment — Romance  of  the  Moorish  Character — Beating  up  for  Gibral- 
tar— Bay  and  City  of  Tangier — American  Consul — Moorish  Boats  and 
Sailors — Moorish  Guides  —  Hamed  —  The  Mosque — Market — Jews  — 
Moorish  Women — Dates  and  Small  Change — Camp  Outside  the  Wall — 
Make  an  Acquaintance — Prepare  for  a  Row — Good  Evening,  Ilamed — 
Reflections.  .......  17 

CHAPTER  II. 

Saluting  the  Flag  of  Morocco — A  Cheerful  Company — The  Mosque — 
Shopping  in  Tangier — Jewish  Women — A  Thought  on  Dress — Civil 
and  Social  Condition  of  the  Jews — Moorish  Soldiers — Palace  of  the 
Bashaw — Visit  the  Residence  of  our  Consular  Agent  for  Mogadore — 
A  Disappointment — A  Walk  in  the  Country — A  Caravan,  Moorish 
Muskets,  and  Wheat — Taming  a  young  Camel — Population.       .  32 

CHAPTER  III. 

First  Impressions — Significance  of  Physical  Aspect — Historical  Review — 
Unanswered  Questions — Phcenicians,  Carthaginians,  Egyptians — Africa 
of  the  Ancients — Portuguese  Navigators — Dutch  Traders — English 
Trade  with  the  Coast — Decline  of  Trade  with  Portugal — Geographical 
Divisions  of  the  West  Coast — The  Senegal,  and  French  Trade.  .  46 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Rough  Sailing — An  African  Pilot— Civilization  and  Religion — Gambia 
River — Moonlight  Visions— Historic  Associations — Early  Settlers  and 
Explorers — Islands  of  tlie  River— Trade  of  the  Gaml)ia— Bathurst — 
Missionaries  and  Mission  Stations — Tribes  of  the  Hanks — An  old  Ac- 
quaintance— Civilization  advancing.  .67 


X 


CONTENTS. 


1 


CHAPTER  V.                               ^  i 

Green  Waters  Again — Entrance  of  the  Sierra  Leone — Ashore  on  the  Bar  ' 

— The  Sailor's  Love  for  his  Ship — Sabbath  Morning  in  Sierra  Leone  , 

— Freetown — Looking  for  a  Methodist  Church — Enghsh  Distinctions  ] 
of  Church  and  Chapel — Congregations  of  Natives — Native  Preachers 

— Good  Reading — Disappointment  No.  3 — Wesleyan  Chapel — Metho-  i 
dist  Liturgy — An  Intelligent  Congregation — A  Troublesome  Nose — 

Good  Singing — Christian  Sympathy  superior  to  Prejudice — Mrs.  Stowe  , 

in  Africa — Rev.  Mr.  Teal  of  the  English  Methodist  Mission — Sierra  j 

Leone.       ........     72  ' 

CHAPTER  YI.  ] 

The  Author  invites  himself  to  Breakfast — A  Morning  Walk — Geology  of  j 

the  District — Guessing — Physiognomy  and  Civilization — Advice  to  the  j 

Reader — Birds — A  World  Alive — Village  of  Wilberforce — Rev.  Mr.  j 

Dillon — Evidences  of  Civilization — School  and  Scholars — Character  of  ; 

the  African — Population  and  Classification  of  Inhabitants — Languages,  I 

etc.           ........      84  i 

CHAPTER  VII.  j 

Revenue  of  the  Colony — Government — Commerce — Trade  with  the 

TJ.  S. — Schools  and  Churches — Methodist  Missions — Rev.  Mr.  Bowen's  ^ 

View  of  Freetown — Advantages  of  Sierra  Leone  as  a  Mission  Field —  | 

Hon.   Mr.   Smythe — Rev.  Mr.   Jones — Pleasant   Hours — The  Man-  | 

dingoes — An  Appeal  for  Arabic  Bibles  and  other  Books — Questions  ; 

concerning  Christ — Ingenuity  of  Mandingo  Mechanics — Market  of  ' 

Freetown — Adieu.           .         .         .         .         .         .     96  | 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

Coast  of  Liberia — Visitors — Kroomen — Their  Employment,  Villages,  etc.  i 
— Tom  Pepper  and  Ben  Coffee — Names  of  Kroomen — Domestic  Sys- 
tem— Religious  Ideas — Superstitions — Their  First  Parent — Origin  of  ' 
the  name,  Kroo — Tradition  respecting  the  Origin  of  the  White  and 
Black  Races — Comparative  Intelligence,  etc. — Why  are  not  the  Kroos  ; 
more  Civilized? — Commerce  and  Civilization.      .          .          .  104 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Questions  concerning  Liberia — Bowen  and  other  Travellers — Friends  of  ! 

the  Colonization  Enterprises — Two  Classes  of  Opponents — A  Meeting-  ' 
place  for  E.xtreraists  of  the  North  and  South — How  Extremists  reason 

— The  "  Capacity  for  Self-government  "  Question — The  Position  of  | 

Conservative  Southerners — Monrovia.      .         .          .         .114  ' 


1 


CONTENTS. 


zi 


CHAPTER  X. 

American  Colonization  Society — Origin  of  Liberia — Jefferson's  Opinion 
of  the  effects  of  Colonization  on  Africa — Delegation  sent  to  Africa — 
Settlement  on  Sherbro  Island — Settlement  of  Perseverance — Settle- 
ment on  Cape  Mcsurado — Wars  with  the  Natives — A  National  Festival 
— Independence  Declared — President  Roberts — President  Benson — 
Territory  and  population  of  Liberia.        .  ,  .  .123 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Constitution  of  Liberia — Legislature — President — Xo  Rotation  in  Office 
— The  Family  Mark — Revenue  and  Expenditures — Future  Possibilities 
and  Probabilities — Conditions  of  Existence — Is  Liberia  Independent — 
Churches  and  Schools — A  very  Anti-republican  Conclusion — Our  Duty 
toward  Liberia.      .......  133 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Climate  of  Liberia — Seasons — Winds — Rains — Temperature — Cause  of 
TJnhealthiness — African  Fever — Physicians — No  Acclimation  for  the 
White  Man — Average  Length  of  Missionary  Life — Soil  of  Liberia — 
Productions —  Timbers — Grains — Fruits — Vegetables.  Animals — Do- 
mestic and  Wild — Useful  Ants — A  Wish — Necessity  for  Labor,  etc.  142 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Considerations  not  to  be  Overlooked — Agriculture  and  Trade — Beggars 
— Society  and  Morals  in  Liberia — Intellectual  Developments — A  Col- 
lege— Influence  of  Liberia — A  Question  Answered — How  Liberia  is  to 
Civilize — Prospect  of  Union  with  Sierra  Leone.  .  .         .  152 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Visit  to  President  Benson — Ex-President  Roberts  and  Family — Visit  to 
the  Senate — The  House  of  Representatives — Politicians — The  Press — 
Pulpit  Celebrities — Bishop  Burns — A  Georgia  Liberian — Messages  to 
Friends — What  shall  we  do  with  our  Free  Colored  Population — A  Rail- 
road for  Liberia — American  Colonization  Society — Melville  B.  Cox — 
Adieu  102 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Annexation  of  Maryland  to  the  Republic  of  Liberia — The  Cape — Dead 
Island — The  Lagoon — Orphan  Asylum — Palmas,  Harper,  Cavalla — 
Grebo  town — Want  of  Beauty  in  African  Scenery— (iovernors  of  the 


CONTENTS. 


Colony,  Management,  etc. — The  Mare  that  wouldn't  go — Strife  Engen- 
dered—The War— The  Treaty  of  Peace— The  Results  of  the  War- 
Bishop  Payne.       .......  174 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Favorable  Impressions — A  Word  for  Monrovia — General  Superiority  of 
the  Southern  over  the  Northern  Black — The  Great  Obstacle  to  Im- 
provement— Climate,  Soil,  Sugar-Cane,  Coffee — An  Opening  for  Enter- 
prising Planters — Steam  Liners — Palm  Oil,  etc. — P.  E.  Mission  Schools 
and  Churches — Bishop  Payne — A  Word  to  Episcopalians — Georgians 
at  Cape  Palmas — The  Grebos — Miss  M.  E.  B.  Staunton,  M.  E.  Mis- 
sionary.     ........  183 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Elmina  from  the  Anchorage — ^Native  Surf-boat — A  Visitor — Landing — 
History  of  Elmina — Settled  by  the  Portuguese — Dutch  Possession — 
Taken  by  the  English — Sold  to  the  Dutch — Opinion  of  Governor  Derx 
— Climate — Dutch  Officers — Mortality — A  Dutch  Philosopher — Native 
Inhabitants — Effects  of  the  Dissolute  Practices  of  White  Residents — 
Dress — Ideas  of  a  Future  State.    .  .  .  .  .  192 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Cape  Coast  Castle — The  Memorable  Dead — Dinner  at  the  Mission-houso 
— Rev.  Daniel  West — British  Conference — Visit  to  the  School — Effects 
of  such  Visits — Rev.  Thomas  B.  Freeman — Population  of  Cape  Coast 
Town — Fantees — Fantee  Language — Ashantee  and  Ashantees — Houses 
and  Huts — Christians  and  Heathens — Good  Evening.      .  .  201 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Bishop  Heber's  Ilynm — Fancies  and  Realities — The  Gold  and  its  getters 
— Gold  Dust  Currency — Two  Centuries  ago — Cape  Coast  Town — The 
Civilization  of  Commerce — A  Representative  Man — Examples  of  the 
Rule  for  determining  the  Degree  of  Civilization  among  Africans — The 
Gamboge  Tree — Forts  William  and  Victoria — The  Chapel — Wesleyan 
Mission— The  Lake— L.  E.  L.— The  Guinea  Worm.        .  .  209 

CHAPTER  XX. 

L.  E.  L.  and  Cape  Coast  Castle — Her  Marriage — Arrival  on  the  Coast — 
Reception — Employment— Her  Death — Inquest — Verdict — Impressions 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


in  England  regarding  her  Death — Death  of  Governor  Maclean — Epitaph 
of  Mrs.  Maclean — Miss  Staunton  and  L.  E.  L. — Points  of  Comparison 
and  Contrast,  etc.  ......  220 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Accra  in  Sight — Come  to  an  Anchor — Canoes  and  Traders — A  word  for 
Pets — Forts — Exports — Fillibustering — English — Civilization — Dress — 
Houses — Missions — "  The  Service  " — Mr.  Bowen — Things  to  bo  Re- 
gretted— Governor  Bannerman — Gold  Rings — A  Native  Goldsmith — 
Indian  Corn — A  Primitive  ilill — The  Gazelle.      .  .  .  229 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  River  Volta — Its  Tribes — A  Yankee  Slaver — Topography  of  the 
Coast  of  Guinea — Is  the  Coast  still  Rising  ? — Deadly  Shores — Quita — A 
Native  King — A  "Walk  through  Quita — Hogs — Poultry — Cattle — Fruit 
— Parrots  and  Monkeys— A  Modest  Girl — Population — Spinning  and 
Weaving — Baptist  Missionaries — Little  Popo — Grand  Popo — Why- 
da.  ........  239 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Geography — Opinion  of  the  Ancients — Scenery,  Vegetation,  etc. — The 
Inhabitants — Fernando  Po  ;  discovered  ;  ceded  to  Spain  ;  leased  to  the 
English ;  Clarence ;  Grave  of  Lander — Prince's  Island,  Appearance, 
Discovery,  Colonization,  Inhabitants,  Romanism,  etc. — Naiads — St. 
Thomas — Annobon — Corisco — Presbyterian  Mission.       .  .  250 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Indications  of  Approach  of  Land — Crossing  the  Mouth  of  the  Congo — 
Loango — Geography,  Climate,  Harbors,  Population,  Religion — Congo 
River — English  men-of-war  and  Yaukee  Clippers — Humanity  (!)  of 
American  Slavers — Geography  of  Congo — Ethnology — The  Congoes — 
Topography — Trade — Slavery,  domestic — Religion  of  the  Congoes — 
Conversion  to  Roman  Catholicism — Relapse  to  Heathenism,  and  why 
■ — Religious  Cliaracter  of  the  African.      ....  261 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

A  Dull  Morning — Tropical  Philosophizing — Bay  of  Loando — Scenery — 
Harbors  and  Commerce — A  Pleasant  Evening  -  A  Glorious  Sunset — 
Thoughts  of  Home — Going  A.shore — Fishing  and  Water  Boats — The 


xiv 


CONTENTS. 


Pier— The  Bishop's  Chair — Suggestions  by  the  Chair — St.  Paul— Native 
Market — The  Biter  Bitten— Sir  George  Jaclison — Population — Loando 
— Religion — Exports  and  Imports.    .  ...  271 

CHAPTER  XXVr. 

Prefatory — A  Caution — Difliculties  of  the  Subject— ConQicting  Accounts 
— A  Point  of  Agreement — Polygamy — Marriage  but  a  Trade — Evil 
Results — Slavery — How  Free  Persons  become  Slaves — Social  Position 
of  Slaves — Origin  of  African  Slavery— Origin  of  the  Slave  Trade — Its 
Elfects  on  the  African  Race.        .  ...  .  .  287 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Forms  of  Government — Ordeals — Fetish  Oath — Red  Water — Religious 
Ideas — Difference  between  Fetishism  and  Idolatry — Fetish  Priests — 
Ideas  of  God — A  Future  State — Evil  Spirits — Witches — Things  to  be 
Remembered — Hope  Gathered  from  the  Credulity  of  the  African.  296 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Discouragements — 1,  Disappointment — Causes  of  Disappointment  —  2, 
Ignorance  of  the  Language — 3,  Wealvness  of  the  Language — 4,  Number 
of  Languages — 5,  Want  of  Capacity — 6,  Fear  of  Spirits — 7,  Polygamy 
— Opinion  of  Bishop  Colenso — History  of  Missions — Number  of  Mis- 
sionaries, Teachers,  etc. — Grand  Results.  .  .  .  306 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Object  of  maintaining  an  African  Squadron — Treaty  of  Washington — 
Want  of  Cooperation — Abuses  of  the  American  Flag — Reasons  for 
Continuing  the  African  Squadron — Its  Increase  demanded — Com- 
plaints of  want  of  Protection  from  our  Citizens  in  Africa — Objections 
to  tlie  Maintenance  of  the  Squadron  answered — Unpopularity  of  the 
Station  and  Why.  .  .  .  .  .  .310 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

The  Cape  Verd  Islands — Origin — Drought-s — Population— Climate — Mayo 
— Boavista  —  Sal  —  Fucgo  —  San  Vincent  —  Porto  G rande  —American 
Graveyard — San  Antonio- Brava— St.  Jago — Porto  Praya— Untold 
Incidents— Homeward  Bound — The  U.  S.  Steamer  Jamestown — Home 
Again.    ...  .  .  .  •  .827 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CANARY  ISLANDS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Peak  of  Teneriffe  in  the  Distance — Grand  Canary — Natives  Visit  the 
Ships — Our  Commercial  Agent — Surface,  Soil,  and  Productions  of  the 
Island — City  of  Las  Palmas— A  Visit  to  the  Shore — Ilotel,  Market, 
Cathedral,  Foundling  Asylum,  Female  College,  Club-room,  etc.   .  339 

CHAPTER  II. 

History — Supposed  to  have  been  known  to  the  Ancient  Egyptians — 
Solon's  Poem — Homer's  Description — Plutarch's  Account — Pliny's  Re- 
ference— Strat)o's — Modern  Discovery,  1330 — Bethencourt's  Expedition 
— Transfer  to  Count  Niebla— Bought  by  Spain — Conquest  of  the  Islands 
— The  Guanches.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .351 

CHAPTER  III. 

Approach  to  Santa  Cruz — Fishery  on  the  African  Coast— Catching  Fish — 
The  City — Our  Consul,  Col.  Hart — His  Death — Intolerance  of  Spanish 
Romanism — A  Word  to  Caterers — Character  of  the  Canarian — A  Festi- 
val— A  Day-Dream — Nelson's  Defeat — Camels — Cochineal  and  its  Cul- 
tivation.    ........  364 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Start  for  the  Peak — Our  Horse.'?  and  Guide — Jar-Carriers  of  Santa  Cruz 
— City  of  Laguna — Flowers  on  the  House-tops — Historical  Associations 
— Population — A  Sacrilegious  Painting — An  Agricultural  District — 
Thresliing  and  Ploughing — Backward  state  of  Agriculture  accounted 
for — Is  Contentment  ahvay.s  a  Virtue? — A  Glimpse  of  the  old  Basaltic 
System — A  Case  of  Conscience  versus  Appetite — A  Wandering  Jew — 
Ancient  and  Modern  Portions  of  the  Island — Botanical  Garden — Dragon 
Tree — Orotava,  etc.  ......  377 

CHAPTER  V. 

Leave  Orotava — Barren  Hills— Goat's  Milk — Breakfast— Stream  of  Lava 
Llano  del  Rctama— A  Hot  Ride — Effects  of  a  Drink — An  Artist  from 
Home — Professor  Prazzi  Smyth,  Astronomer  Royal — Ascent  of  the 
Malpays  and  Piton— The  Summit— A  Cheer  for  Old  Virginia— A  Night 
at  Alta  Vitita— Our  Hosts- The  Descent— A  Word  of  Advice.    .  391 


xvi 


CONTENTS. 


MADEIRA. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Land — Close  Calculation — The  Island  as  seen  in  the  Distance — Nearer  and 
more  Enchanting  View — Loo  Rock,  Brazen  Head  and  Pontinha — Dis- 
tinguished Visitors — The  Anchorage — Going  Ashore — The  Landing — 
Beggars — American  Consulate — Panoramic  View  of  Funchal  and  its 
Surroundings — Convents — Burying-grounds,  etc.  .  .  409 

CHAPTER  n. 

History — Population — Procession  of  Miguelites — A  Day's  Ride — Modes 
of  TraveUing — Horses  and  Burroqueros — An  Impertinent  Question — 
Suburbs — Lavadas — Irrigation — Wheat  Fields  —  Freemason  Horses — 
Mount  Church — Little  Curral — Palheiro,  etc       .  .  .  428 

CHAPTER  III. 

Evening  Walks — Camera  de  Lobos — The  Xew  Road — The  Prazas — Cost 
of  Living  —  Cabinet  Workmen  and  Turners  —  Lazaretto — Vespers — 
Government  of  Madeira,  etc.       .....  437 

CHAPTER  IV. 

A  Day's  Ride — Grand  Curral — The  Vine  and  the  Wine  of  Madeira — 
Geology  of  the  Curral  and  Island  Generally — Trouble  in  the  Dinner 
Basket — A  Soliloquy.       ......  447 

CHAPTER  V. 

Climate — Winds  and  Rains — A  Resort  for  Consumptive  Invalids — Testi- 
mony of  Eminent  Men — Classes  of  InvaUds — Church  and  Schools.  456 

CHAPTER  VL 

A  Pedestrian  Tour — Sancta  Cruz — Machico — The  Romantic  Discoverers 
— Toiling  Upward — Remembrances  of  Childhood — A  Country  Dance — 
Story  of  our  Host — Start  for  San  Antonio  dc  Sierra— Baron  San  Pedro — 
A  Morning  Walk — Prince  Adalbert  of  Prussia — Adieu  to  Madeira.  466 


p 


! 


ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS 

ON  THE 

WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TANGIER — IXTRODirCTORT. 

"  Shadows,  clouds,  and  darkness  rest  upon  it." 

"  Each  little  addeth  to  the  general  store, 
Who  follows  learns  from  him  that  went  before." 

Premisory — Morocco — Extensive  Influence — Obscure  History — Indomi- 
table— Unchanging — Recollections  of  Boyish  Dreams,  and  Prospect  of 
Fulfillment — Romance  of  the  Moorish  Character — Beating  up  for  Gibral- 
tar— Bay  and  City  of  Tangier — American  Consul — Moorish  Boats  and 
Sailors  —  Moorish  Guides  —  Hamed — The  Mosque  —  Market — Jews — 
Moorish  Women — Dates  and  Small  Change — Camp  Outside  the  Wall — 
Make  an  Acquaintance — Prepare  for  a  Row — Good  Evening,  Uamed — 
Reflections. 

It  may  not  be  expected  that  Sketches  of  the  "West  Coast 
of  Africa  will  contaia  descriptions  of  places  and  life  on  the 
Atlantic  shores  of  Morocco;  yet  a  chapter  of  notes,  his- 
torical and  descriptive,  of  the  ancient  and  classic  city  of 
Tangier  and  its  peoi^le  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  the 
reader. 

FcAV  empires,  ancient  or  modern,  have  exerted  so  great 
an  influence  over  the  destinies  of  civilized  man,  as  the  half- 
civilized  empire  of  Morocco;  and  of  none,  since  the  decline 

u 


18         PEKSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


of  Rome,  lias  the  influence  been  so  long  aurl  so  generally 
felt.  Commanding  many  leagues  of  coast  on  the  shores  of 
the  Mediterranean  and  Atlantic,  her  daring  pir.ates  have  for 
centuries  infested  these  waters  in  pursuit  of  blood  or  ti'ea- 
sure,  bringing  the  commerce  of  all  nations  under  contribu- 
tion ;  and  to  this  day,  the  jiroudest  nations  of  Europe, 
England  and  France,  buy  exemption  from  her  depredations 
by  annual  contributions  of  black  niail.  Defended  by  the 
dangerous  rocks  and  shoals  which  line  her  seaward  borders, 
she  is  safe  from  the  attacks  of  naval  forces.  Secure  in  the 
fastnesses  of  her  vast  deserts,  where  the  fleet  barb  and  the 
unequalled  horseman  can  tire  the  strength,  and,  by  slow 
hunting  warfare,  "waste  the  spirit  and  the  numbers  of  disci- 
plined armies,  she  is  beyond  the  reach  of  punishment,  and 
may  be  approached  only  on  her  own  terms.  Spain,  Por- 
tugal, England,  France,  have  at  various  times  possessed 
themselves  of  her  accessible  sea-coast  towns ;  but  they 
found  them  i:)roritless  possessions,  and  too  dear  at  the  price 
of  constant  M  arlare.  Tlie  relinquisluuent  has  been  speedy, 
and  the  indomitable  children  of  the  soil  have  returned  to 
their  natural  possessions,  like  the  locusts  of  their  own 
deserts,  refreshed  by  the  sleep  of  the  plains,  and  increased 
in  numbers. 

Situated,  geographically,  where  her  mountains  have  looked 
for  ages  into  the  very  lap  of  civilization  and  advancement, 
she  is  herself  unchanged.  Even  Christianity,  after  eighteen 
centuries  of  eflbrt  and  contact,  has  failed,  in  the  least,  to 
modify  her  character,  or  to  establish  a  single  temple  in  her 
towns ;  and  the  Pillars  of  Hercules  may  mark  to-day,  as 
they  are  said  to  have  marked  thousands  of  years  ago,  tho 
limits  of  civilization  in  that  direction. 


TANGIER. 


19 


But  though  known  for  three  thousand  years  under  the 
names  Ethiopians,  Mauri,  Barbarians,  Mauritanians  and 
Moors,  the  inhabitants  of  Morocco  are  perhaps  less  known 
than  any  of  tlie  peoples  of  Europe  or  Asia.  The  sailor, 
wisely,  gives  a  wide  berth  to  her  shores,  where  shipwreck, 
even  in  this  age,  would  be  followed  by  death  or  slavery. 
The  traveller  liketh  not  the  shadow  of  her  walls  and  tents ; 
and  hence  it  is  that  so  little  is  known  of  the  mixed  and 
xmited  tribes  known  to  Europe  and  America  under  the 
general  name  of  Moor.  The  Chiistian  religion,  in  its  west- 
ward flow,  has  passed  oA^cr  these  plains  without  leaving  a 
ripple  trace  on  their  sands;  and  unless  the  regurgitating 
wave  that  is  to  enliven  Africa  in  its  flow  shall  survive  the 
Sahara  and  burst  the  bounds  of  the  Atlas  chain,  the  Moors 
Avill  be  but  Moors  when  the  Son  of  Man  shall  come. 

My  first  impressions  of  the  Moors  were  gathered  from 
the  "  Arabian  Nights,"  and  stories  of  shipwreck  and  adven- 
ture among  them  by  Adams ;  sobered  somewhat,  in  later 
boyhood,  by  "  Jackson's  Account  of  the  Empire  of  Moroc- 
co." My  boyish  imagination  loved  to  revel  in  the  mists  of 
Moorish  history,  and  the  wildness  of  Moorish  scenery  and 
character.  It  was  to  me  a  land  of  exhaustless  legend  and 
romance  ;  iu  whose  people,  cruelty  and  hospitality,  trea- 
chery and  i^latonic  friendship,  strangely  harmonized.  I  was 
oarly  fired  with  the  desire  of  seeing  with  my  own  eyes  her- 
majestic  mountains  and  magnificent  plains  ;  and  many  a 
delightful  day-dream  have  I  had,  over  an  uninteresting 
Latin  grammar,  full  of  wild  adventure,  passing  from  castle 
to  tent,  under  the  shadow  of  a  friendly  turban,  before  whose 
"  sesame  "  curtains  and  doors  flew  open. 

In  the  latter  part  of  July,  '56,  we  were  beating  to  wind- 


20         PEKSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


ward  of  the  Madeiras,  when  the  secret  trauspii'ed  in  the 
ward-room  that  we  were  bound  for  Tangier.  Here  it  may- 
be necessary  to  inform  the  reader  that,  for  good  reason  in 
time  of  war,  and  no  reason  in  time  of  peace,  the  destination 
of  a  man-of-war  is  generally  kept  a  secret  from  the  officers, 
non-commanding,  for  a  few  days.  The  authority  is  found 
in  the  lex  non  seripta  of  the  navy,  called  "  usage  " — a  bud- 
get, by  the  way,  whicli  contains  all  sorts  of  fimny  things  ; 
among  others,  lots  of  affirmative  proof  on  the  vexed  ques- 
tion as  to  whether  a  thing  can  be  all  black  and  all  white  at 
the  same  time ;  alias^  that  black  is  Avliite,  and  white  is 
black. 

The  news  brought  to  mind  my  boyhood's  dreams  of 
Morocco ;  and  they  were  to  be  realized  in  part,  for  I  should, 
at  least,  look  upon  her  shores,  and  shake  hands  with  her 
sun-burnt  children ;  but  how  far  my  romantic  ideas  of  the 
half-civUized  character  had  been  modified,  judge  ye,  who 
have  had  two  years  of  contact  with  the  ughness  of  man's 
savage  condition  on  the  shores  of  Africa ;  and  how  far  my 
ardor  for  adventure  had  been  cooled,  ye  can  imagine,  who 
have  spent  a  year  on  that  dreary  station,  away  from  coun- 
try and  friends,  and  wife  and  little  ones. 

There  is,  however,  a  degree  of  romance  inseparable  from 
the  Moorish  character ;  so  we  rejoiced  in  the  prospect  of 
breaking  in  on  the  monotony  of  our  cruise,  by  spending  a 
day  with  the  Barbarians. 

After  a  week  of  most  unpleasant  sailing,  we  made  the 
coast  of  Europe  at  Cape  St.  Vincent,  and  that  night  and 
the  following  day  continued  our  course  toward  the  Gut  of 
Gibraltar,  along  the  coast  of  Spain  ;  and  over  those  waters 
where  Nelson  immortalized  himself,  and  England  was 


TANGIEK. 


21 


crowned  "  Mistress  of  the  Seas."  The  morning  of  the  tenth 
day  out  brought  us  within  sight  of  the  Moorish  coast,  and 
at  noon  we  dropped  anchor  in  the  bay  of  Tangier,  a  mile 
from  the  town.  Our  consul,  Mr.  Brown,  was  soon  along- 
side, to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Commodore,  and  gave  the 
officers  some  excellent  advice  as  to  the  prudence  necessary 
in  intercourse  with  the  natives,  which  had  a  very  fine  ejffect 
in  the  way  of  exciting  our  curiosity.  After  some  hesitation 
on  the  part  of  the  Commodore,  a  few  of  us  obtained  per- 
mission to  visit  the  shore,  and  at  3  o'clock  we  were  off  for 
an  evening's  stroll  among  the  Moors.  The  city,  built  in  a 
narrow  valley,  and  stretching  up  the  hiUs  on  both  sides,  is 
surroimded  by  a  high  castellated  wall  of  solid  masonry,  and 
defended  on  the  Avater  side  by  forts  of  considerable  strength 
Avhich  rest  on  the  native  rock.  As  seen  from  the  bay,  it 
looks  like  a  city  of  prisons.  The  houses  which  ajipear  above 
the  walls  are  square,  flat-roofed,  white,  and  without  orna- 
ment, having  but  few  windows,  and  these  quite  small.  We 
passed  among _/e^«cca-rigged  schooners  at  anchor,  and  others 
under  weigh  ;  their  broad  yet  graceful  sails  hauled  almost 
fore-and-aft,  and  sailing,  with  the  swiftness  of  a  seagull,  into 
the  very  eye  of  the  wind.  The  dark-complexioned  and 
turbaned  sailors  smiled  at  us  as  we  jiassed,  and  we  could 
imagine  one  piratical-looking  crew  saying  to  themselves, 
"  What  fine  slaves  these  follows  would  make !"  They  have 
learned,  liowever,  in  tlieir  occasional  encounters  with  Eng- 
lish and  other  sailors,  that  gentlemen  who  wear  brass  but- 
tons are  ratlier  ugly  customers  to  handle.  We  directed 
our  boat  for  the  water  gate,  the  only  entrance  on  this  side, 
and  landed  in  the  midst  of  lialf  a  dozen  bare-legged,  slip- 
shod, turbaned  and  sashed  gentlemen,  wlio  represented  as 


22 


r!.ESOK.U.  ADTKNTUKES  AXD  0B5EKVATI0XS. 


many  colors,  from  copper  and  chestnut-brown  to  ashy 
black. 

In  Frencli  and  broken  English  they  offered  their  services 
as  guides,  but  Tvith  a  degree  of  hauteur  which  led  some  of 
our  company  to  suppose  that  they  were  dignitaries,  or  at 
least  gentlemen,  of  the  city  who  had  come  to  offer  us  hos- 
pitaUties.  A  gentleman  wearing  a  fez  cap,  ornamented  with 
a  tassel  of  red  silk,  half  a  yard  iu  length,  and  who  spoke 
French  very  fluently,  told  us  that  he  had  just  returned  from 
the  Ciimea ;  offered  to  show  us  round  the  city,  and  was 
quite  un-Moorish  iu  pohteness.  I  didn't  Uke  the  cut  of 
his  jib. 

Casting  a  glance  over  the  group  as  I  jumped  ashore,  my 
attention  was  arrested  by  a  sprightly  face  of  nut-brown 
color,  in  which  the  amiable  and  savage  were  blended,  set 
off  by  the  perpetual  smile  of  a  hare  lip.  "Ah,"  said  I, 
"  there  he  is ;  the  old  man  of  my  dreams  in  boyhood — I've 
seen  that  face,  full  of  contradictions,  and  that  snow-white 
turban,  in  my  visions  of  Moorland."  His  burnous — a  gar- 
ment made  hke  a  smock  or  shirt,  having  loose,  flowing 
sleeves — was  of  mottled  brown  and  white ;  his  white  full 
drawers,  fastened  above  the  knee,'  contrasted  pleasantly 
with  his  brown  legs  and  bright  yellow  slippers;  and,  ex- 
cepting the  long  scarf  thrown  over  One  shoulder  and  brought 
round  the  waist,  he  was  in  full  Moorish  dress. 

"  Come  here,  old  gentleman,"  said  I,  beckoning  toward 
him.  He  came  up  with  a  dignitied  step  and  manner,  which 
I  thought  to  be  assumed  for  the  occasion. 

"  Want  me,  sa  ?" 

"  "VThat  is  your  name  ?" 

"  Ilamed,  sa." 


TANGIEK. 


23 


"  Speak  English,  Hamed  ?" 
"  Yes,  sa." 

"  Hamed,  are  you  an  honest  man,  or  a  scomidrel  ?" 
"  Hamed  good  man,  sa,"  -n  ith  an  air  of  injm'ed  innocence. 
"  Xo  doubt ;  but  how  am  I  to  know  that  ?" 
"Everybody  know  Hamed,  sa." 

"  Well,  that  accounts  for  it !  I  was  just  thinking  that  you 
looked  like  an  old  acquaintance." 

"  Oh  yes,  sa !  Hamed  see  you  when  you  here  be- 
fore." 

"  Very  Ukely,  Hamed,  considering  that  this  is  my  first 
visit." 

Hamed  lifted  his  eyebrows  and  smiled,  as  if  he  had  per- 
petrated a  joke. 

"  Where  did  you  learn  to  tell  lies,  Hamed  ?" 

"He  no  lie,  sa;  me  tmk  so  I  see  you." 

By  this  time  we  had  passed  the  water  gate  and  were 
ascending  the  steep  and  narrow  street,  inclosed  by  high 
buildings,  almost  destitute  of  windows  and  doors,  at  least 
on  the  street  side,  which  leads  to  the  centre  of  the  city. 
Here  our  company  separated,  some  for  the  Consulate,  and 
other.s  to  look  at  the  emiosities,  under  the  guidance  of  the 
Crimean.  "  Hamed,"  said  I,  "  hold  on  to  me,  and  by  night 
we'll  be  better  acquainted." 

"  Very  good,  sa ;  Hamed  good  man,  sa." 

"  Let  us  take  a  look  in  liere,"  said  I,  as  we  readied  the 
spacious  gateway  of  a  large  building,  surmounted  by  tur- 
rets, and  a  tall  spire  or  tower,  handsomely  ornamented. 

"No,  sa;  no  sa!"  said  Hamed,  with  a  face  of  terror. 
"  Ho  be  mosque — can't  go." 

"  Oh,  don't  be  afraid." 


21 


PEESOXAL  ADVENTUKES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 


"  Ah  !  s'pose  I  take  you  dare,  he  cut  off  my  hands." 

"  "VTell,  that  bemg  the  case,  I'll  go  alone." 

"  1^0,  sa ;  must  no  go," — and  here  he  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  if  I  went  in  they  would  likely  cut  off  my  head  as 
well  as  my  hands. 

"  That  being  the  case,"  said  I,  "  we'll  defer  our  visit.  In 
the  meantime,  old  fellow,  stir  up  the  contents  of  your  tur- 
ban, and  contrive  me  a  way  to  take  a  peep  at  the  inside  to- 
morrow, and  I'll  give  you  an  extra  ounce."  I  saw  from  his 
face  that  it  was  a  hopeless  prospect.  He  shrugged  his 
shoulders,  and  we  continued  our  walk. 

"  Hamed,"  said  I,  as  we  continued  up  the  street,  "  when 
you  come  to  my  country,  you  may  go  into  our  mosques 
and  welcome  :  why  can't  I  go  into  yours  ?" 

"  We  no  like  Christian  in  dis  country." 

"  Do  you  know  an  ji;hing  of  the  Christian  religion,  Hamed  ?" 

"  O  yes,  sa !  I  read  bout  him  one  book." 

"  TThat  book  ?" 

"  Arabic  book." 

"  Do  these  people  read  Arabic  ?" 

"  Great  many." — Here  Ilamed  revealed  an  intelligence 
on  the  subject  that  surprised  me ;  and  in  broken  accents 
made  a  beautiful  compliment  to  the  religion  and  character 

Jesus — they  won't  sj^eak  of  him  by  any  other  name — 
that  touched  my  heart. 

"  But  you  i>refer  Mahomet,"  said  I. 

"  May  be  Jesus  so  good,  like  Mah-o-mcd  ;  Mah-o-raed 
more  strong.'''' 

He  seemed  disposed  to  drop  the  subject,  and  so  was  I, 
for  the  comparison  instituted  touched  a  tender  chord  within. 
Ilamed  fairly  I'cpresented  the  Moorish  idea  of  the  compara- 


TAXGIEE. 


25 


tive  merits  of  Christ  and  Mahomet.  ^Ve  passed  along  the 
central  and  largest  street  of  the  citv ;  but  most  of  the  shops 
and  stalls  were  closed  for  the  evening  ;  yet  the  poultry  and 
fruit  markets,  which  occupy  a  portion  of  this  street,  were 
still  brisk  and  noisy. 

Before  passing  into  the  crowd,  I  called  a  halt.  "  Xow, 
Hamed,"  said  I,  "  talk  fast,  for  time  is  precious.  Who  are 
those  farr-complexioned  gentlemen,  buttoned  iip  in  long 
coats  which  reach  from  the  throat  to  the  feet ;  wearing  or- 
dinary cloth  caps,  instead  of  fez  caps  or  turbans,  like  you 
coffee-colored  gentlemen  ?" 

The  old  fellow  curled  up  his  lip  with  a  sneer  that  Byron 
might  envy,  as  he  said : 

"  Humph !  he  be  Jews." 

"  Do  they  all  dress  alike  ?" 

"  Yes,  he  all  be  make  like  dat — he  not  can  wear  like  dis," 
lifting  his  burnous  and  a  faded  sash  that  had  lately  made  its 
appearance  around  his  waist. 

"  Are  they  compelled  to  dress  .«?o  ?" 

"  Bashaw  do  it." 

"  Why  so  ?" 

Hamed  shrugged  his  shoulders,  looked  puzzled,  and  mut- 
tered, "  So  be." 

So  be,  with  Hamed,  was  a  non  sequitur,  beyond  which  was 
sullen  sUence,  and  the  boundless  tmknown. 

"  What  do  they  do,  Hamed  ?" 

"  He  be  merchand." 

Here  he  hailed  one  in  a  very  authoritative  tone,  and  as 
the  gentleman  advanced,  Hamed  said,  "  He  be  good  man — 
he  sell  sheep  " — cheap. 

There  was  something  mercenary  in  his  face,  and  a  subdued 


26         PEESOXAL  ADTEXTCliES  AXD  OBSEEVATIOJiTS. 

air  in  his  manner,  that  told  the  story  of  his  wrongs,  and  the 
vile  oppression  which  his  race  suffers  among  an  inferior  peo- 
ple ;  yet  there  Avas  also  something  noble  in  his  bearing,  and 
intellect  and  enterprise  beamed  from  his  black  eye.  He  in- 
vited us  to  call  at  his  shop,  which  we  promised  to  do. 

"  Who  are  those  covered  up  in  shawls  of  white  flannel, 
peeping  out  through  a  hole  over  the  left  eye  ?" 

"  He  be  omen." 

"  "Whj-  don't  they  show  their  faces  ?" 
"  So  be  " — and  a  shi'ug  of  the  shoulder. 
"  Ai*e  they  pretty,  Hamed  ?" 
"  N^o  be,  he  be  old." 
"  Where  are  the  young  women  ?" 
"In  house  " — harem — "mind  children." 
"Don't  they  come  out  sometimes?" 
"  Xo — sometimes." 
"  Why  not  ?" 

"  So  be,"  and  a  shrug,  with  faint  symptoms  of  a  smile — 
the  only  insobriety  of  the  evening. 

In  the  poultry  market  there  were  great  numbers  of  those 
Barbary  pigeons,  so  famous  for  their  size  and  beauty.  The 
common  barn-yard  fowls  -were  ordinary  in  appearance,  and 
very  cheap.  Pigeon  fanciers  in  the  States  would  be  glad  to 
give  twenty  or  thirty  dollars  a  pair  for  pigeons  that  we 
bought  for  ten  cents  each.  Fresh  dates  were  abundant,  and 
more  delicious  in  flavor  than  can  be  imagined  by  those  who 
know  only  the  dried  dates  of  commerce.  Those  still  adher- 
ing to  the  stems  hung  in  clusters  from  the  stalls,  tlie  riper 
Averc  packed  in  neatly  woven  baskets  of  palm-leaf.  I  gave 
Hamed  a  quarter,  with  which  he  purchased  a  basket,  contain- 
ing half  a  peck,  and  brought  me  back  a  handful  of  change, 


TANGIEE. 


27 


much  resembling  old  brass  buttons  minus  shanks.  The  coins 
were  flat  on  one  side,  and  slightly  convex  on  the  other, 
which  contained  a  character  denoting  the  value.  1  judged 
them  to  be  worth  a  mill  each ;  I  estimated  them  at  a  much 
lower  rate,  for  they  were  not  cleanly  in  appearance.  I  told 
Ilamed  to  throw  them  away,  but  he  preferred  to  deposit 
them  in  the  labyrinthian  folds  of  his  capacious  shirt — bur- 
nous^ I  should  have  said.  "We  continued  our  way  along 
the  paved  street,  and  passed  out  at  the  eastern  gate  of  the 
city. 

Outside  the  grey  and  moss-covered  Avails,  besprinkled 
with  cryptogamous  jslants,  we  found  a  number  of  donkeys 
and  camels  that  seemed  to  be  waiting  for  the  return  of  their 
owners ;  and  a  camp  of  Moors,  lately  arrived  from  the  inte- 
rior with  poultry,  fruits,  pieces  of  valuable  wood,  and  other 
marketable  commodities.  I  tried  to  scrape  an  acquaintance 
with  them,  through  Hamed,  but  they  seemed  surly  and  dis- 
tant. I  bethought  me  of  an  expedient.  Pulling  out  a  case 
of  cigars,  giving  one  to  Ilamed,  and  putting  another  in  ;ny 
mouth,  I  advanced  toward  tlie  oldest  of  the  crowd,  who  was 
sitting  almost  between  the  legs  of  his  camel,  smoking  a  pipe 
of  opium — I  asked  him  for  a  liglit,  and  as  that  was  a  degree 
of  hospitality  that  a  follower  of  Mahomet  might  not  refuse, 
he  extended  his  ]iipe  and  I  lit  my  cigar.  Then,  ofTeriug  fire 
to  Ilaincd,  I  told  him  to  ask  the  gcutlcnian  if  he  M  ould  not 
accept  an  American  cigar.  Ue  grunted  assent,  and  I  gave 
him  lialf  a  dozen.  Then,  taking  a  seat  beside  him,  with  a 
sang  froid  air,  though  in  reality,  in  great  fear  that  the 
camel  at  niy  back  miglit  take  a  nib  at  my  Clu  istian  slioul- 
der — for  camels  are  faithful  servants  of  the  Prophet — I  be- 
gan to  gather  the  information  I  wanted ;  for  I  now  realized 


28         PKRSONAI.  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  justice  of  my  preconceived  ideas  as  to  the  connection 
of  tobacco  with  fraternity.  Behold  its  marvellous  effects  on 
this  Ishmaelite ! 

He  became  quite  communicative,  and  seemed  as  much 
interested  in  answering  my  questions  as  I  was  in  asking 
them. 

"  How  far  is  your  home  from  here  ?" 
"  Six  days  " — about  a  hundred  miles. 
"  How  often  do  you  come  to  Tangier  ?" 
"  Two  or  three  times  a  year." 
"  Are  these  four  men  your  neighbors  ?" 
"  ISTo ;  brothers." 

I  could  scarcely  believe  this,  for  they  were  quite  different 
in  features  and  shades  of  color. 

In  a  moment  he  saAV  my  incredulity  and  added : 
"  Xot  of  the  same  mother." 
"What  is  your  cargo  worth  ?" 

"Forty  dollars," — according  to  Hamed's calculation. 

"  What  M-ill  you  buy  with  it  ?" 

"  Powder,  lead,  beads,  colored  thread,  needles,"  etc. 

"  What  have  you  lived  on  during  your  journey  ?" 

One  of  the  brothers  here  produced  a  bag,  containing  what 
I  took  to  be  barley  meal,  and  a  piece  of  bread  resembling 
our  ash-cake. 

"  What  do  you  pursue  at  home  ?" 

"  Make  grain  and  cattle — this  been  bad  year." 

I  could  not  learn  from  what  cause.  I  learned  this  and  a 
good  deal  more  in  the  course  of  my  fifteen  minutes'  talk ; 
and  as  I  arose  to  depart,  he  inquired  why  X  asked  so  many 
questions.  I  answered,  with  a  A^ery  honest  face,  that  I  had 
from  boyhood  admired  the  Moorish  character,  and  wanted 


TANGIER. 


29 


to  find  out  all  I  could  about  them.  He  returned  the  com- 
pliment, by  saying,  that  I  was  "  an  honest  man,  and  that  I 
ought  to  take  a  horse  and  go  out  to  his  country — he  would 
bring  me  back."  It  may  have  been  a  bait :  they  do  such 
things  sometimes ;  but  I  beheve  that  he  was  sincere.  I  shook 
hands  with  him,  and,  to  my  surprise,  those  who  seemed  sus- 
picious on  my  approach,  readily  accepted  my  hand  when  I 
bid  them  good  evening.  Honesty,  tobacco,  and  a  little  in- 
genuity are  available  helps  in  getting  through  the  world. 
To  accora2)lish  an  object  sufficiently  Avorthy  of  the  labor, 
your  contributor  would  engage  to  reach  the  city  of  Morocco 
on  foot,  without  convoy,  if  some  one  would  guarantee  a 
supply  of  tobacco  by  the  way. 

The  beautiful  garden  of  the  Swedish  Consul  is  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  beyond  the  eastern  gate.  We  entered,  and  went 
around  its  shady  walks,  but  had  not  time  to  make  note  of  its 
luxuriant  flora.  Reentering  the  town,  I  followed  Ilaraed 
through  streets  of  less  than  six  feet  in  width,  lanes  still  more 
narrow,  open  courts  and  ruined  buildings,  a  perfect  wilder- 
ness of  stone  and  mortar,  turbans  and  fez  caps ;  and  I  thought 
at  one  time  that,  like  Milton's  debatants  of  forekuowledsc, 
we  should  find  no  end,  and  be 

"  In  wandering  mazes  lost." 

Hamed  disappeared  up  a  dark  and  stony  stair,  above 
which  we  heard  loud  talking.  I  darted  after  him,  instinct- 
ively clutching  my  walking-stick,  and  fumbling  in  my  pocket 
for  my  pen-knife,  the  only  weapon  of  defence  on  my  person. 
They  were  familiar  voices,  and  in  a  moment  I  stood  in  the 
presence  of  two  of  my  slii|)mates,  who,  under  the  guidance 
of  our  Crimean  hero,  had  found  their  way  to  the  house  and 


30         PEKSONAL  ADYENTCKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


shop  of  my  friend  the  Jew,  where  they  -^vere  buying  ottar  of 
rose,  and  other  little  valuables.  All  hands  were  talking  at 
once,  and  the  progress  in  trade  was  very  noisy  and  very 
slow.  It  was  now  near  sunset,  and  fearing  to  be  shut  in,  Ave 
hastened  to  the  water  gate  and  our  boats.  We  tossed 
Ilamed  half  a  dollar,  with  which  he  was  quite  satisfied,  and 
engaging  his  services  for  the  morroM',  we  bade  him  good 
evening.  As  a  parting  request,  he  wanted  me  to  tell  him 
if  Hamed  was  not  a  good  man.  I  answered,  "  So  far  so 
good,  but  I'll  tell  Hamed  more  about  it  to-morrow  evening." 

That  night,  as  I  read  the  evening  lesson  from  the  New 
Testament,  its  pages  were  unusually  bright ;  and  that  dear 
name,  which,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  had  heard  as- 
signed to  an  inferior  position  among  men,  felt  imusually 
dear.  Nay,  the  Master  himself  was  at  hand  to  strengthen 
the  fiiith  and  heal  the  wounded  feelings  of  his  feeble  but 
jealous  servant.  In  a  corresponding  frame  of  mind  I  once 
read,  consecutively,  one  of  the  best  passages  of  the  Koran 
and  a  page  from  the  New  Testament.  As  a  philosoplier  in 
morals,  I  saw  much  to  admire  in  the  former ;  but  in  the  lat- 
ter, which  I  read  as  a  philosopher,  and  also  as  a  sinner,  and 
a  mortal  immortal,  each  verse  was  a  bm-nished  gem,  beam- 
ing spiritual,  as  well  as  moral,  truth.  The  page  which  con- 
tains St.  John's  Gospel,  chap.  iTth,  is  a  casket  of  gems,  of 
which  one  single  beam  contains  more  spiritual  light  than 
may  be  gathered  from  all  the  philosojihy  of  uninspired  man, 
and  which,  in  its  harmonious  beamings,  reflects  on  the  intel- 
lect and  heart  tlie  shiuinixof  the  Eternal  Li^ht.  In  turniucc 
from  one  to  the  other,  I  passed  from  the  moonlit  earth,  and 
the  mud-built  liabitations  of  men,  to  the  crystal  walls,  and 
pearly  gates,  and  uncreated  liglit  of  the  New  Jerusalem. 


TA2«'GIEE. 


31 


I  may  not  have  prayed  that  night  vriih  unusual  faith,  but 
certainly  with  unusual  desire,  '•  Thy  Kingdom  Come,"  and 
then,  though  in  a  land  -n-here  the  crescent  still  outshines  the 
cross,  I  fell  asleep,  conscious  of  the  presence  and  protection 
of  the  Good  Shepherd. 


CHAPTER  n. 


TAXGIEE — CONTINTJED. 

Saluting  the  Flag  of  Morocco — A  Cheerful  ■  Company — The  Mosque — 
Shopphig  in  Tangier — Jewish  Women— A  Tliought  on  Dress — Civil 
and  Social  Condition  of  the  Jews — Moorish  Soldiers — Palace  of  the 
Bashaw — Visit  the  Residence  of  our  Consular  Agent  for  Mogadore — 
A  Disappointment — A  Walk  in  the  Country — A  Caravan,  Moorish 
Muskets,  and  Wheat — Taming  a  young  Camel — Population. 

At  ciglit  o'clock  on  the  morning  following  our  arrival, 
the  red  ensign  of  Morocco  appeared  above  the  walls  of  the 
city ;  a  corresponding  flag  was  immediately  hoisted  at  our 
"  fore,"  and  saluted  with  a  brisk  round  of  twenty-one  guns. 
The  compliment  was  sjjeedily  returned  from  the  forts,  and 
the  loud-soimding  and  well-timed  twenty-one  assured  us 
that  the  Moors'  knowledge  of  the  use  of  gunpowder  is  not 
confined  to  small  arms.  While  the  boatswain's  mate  was 
calling  "  away  the  third  cutters,"  to  take  the  ofiicers 
ashore,  I  swept  the  beach  with  a  telescope,  and  at  the  land- 
ing descried  my  friend  Ilamed  and  his  fez-capped  brother, 
awaiting  our  arrival.  The  calm  and  balmy  morning  gave 
me  a  favorable  impression  of  the  climate  of  Tangier,  and 
inspired  all  hands  with  cheerfulness  and  good  will.  The 
ollicers  stepped  into  the  boat  without  waiting  for  the  order 
of  "  rank even  the  first-lieutenant,  Avhose  duty  it  is, 
according  to  "  usage,"  to  find  fault  Avherever  he  goes, 
seemed  to  forget  his  criticism  and  wore  a  cheerful  counte- 
nance ;  our  lads  sprang  their  oars  "  with  a  Avill,"  and  in  a 

82 


TAHGEEE. 


33 


few  minutes  Hamed  and  company  were  bidding  iis  good 
morning. 

My  companion  for  the  forenoon's  stroll  was  our  worthy 
first-lieutenant,  T.  H.  P.,  whose  excellent  father,  Com- 
modore Patterson,  bore  arms  in  our  war  with  the  Moors  of 
Algiers — a  war  which  they  have  not  yet  forgotten,  and  that 
brought  them  to  a  treaty  which  thenceforth  exempted  our 
nation  from  the  heavy  tributes  of  black  mail,  previously 
paid,  to  secure  for  our  commerce  immunity  from  the  pirates 
of  these  waters.  It  is  not  alone  to  this  treaty,  however, 
that  we  are  indebted  for  freedom  from  their  ravages,  but 
also  to  that  resi^ect  which,  from  various  causes,  is  enter- 
tained by  half-civilized  and  other  nations  for  the  United 
States,  But  the  morning  is  too  fine,  and  space  too  precious 
for  moralizing. 

As  we  followed  in  the  steps  of  Hamed,  on  a  trinket- 
bimting  expedition  among  the  stores  and  bazaars  of  the  city, 
I  suggested  to  my  companion,  that  if  he  wished  a  free  pas- 
sage to  the  interior,  and  taste  of  Christian  slavery  among 
the  Moors,  he  would  be  accommodated  at  once  on  letting 
them  know  that  he  was  the  son  of  a  gentleman  who  helped 
to  pepper  them  Avith  hot  shot  at  Algiers.  He  replied, 
that  if  he  had  any  assurance  that  tlicy  would  not  send 
him  on  a  three  years'  cruise,  he  might  be  disposed  to  try 
it. 

Arriving  at  the  mosque,  I  asked  Ilamed  if  he  had  yet 
procured  us  a  pass  to  the  establishment ;  to  which  the  old 
fellow  replied,  with  a  degree  of  indignation  that  showed 
some  personal  feeling  on  the  subject : 

"  No,  sa !  he  be  no  use  talk  'bout  dat.  S'posc  Christian 
go  dare,  he  be  spoil  for  dis  people." 

2* 


34         PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


"  Well  done  old  cbap !"  said  I,  "  you  have  more  pluck 
and  more  sincerity  than  I  have  been  gi\Tng  you  credit  for ; 
but  in  the  meantime,  what  are  all  these  slippers  about  the 
steps  ?" 

"  People  leave  him  when  he  go  in." 

There  were  so  many,  and  Moorish  slippers  are  so  much 
alike  in  size,  shape  and  color — generally  yellow — ^that  I  was 
puzzled  to  know  how  the  owners  could  identify  them ;  but 
while  I  was  thinking  on  the  subject,  a  gentleman  of  burnt- 
coffee  complexion  came  out,  and  casting  a  single  glance  at 
us,  and  another  at  the  shoal  of  slippers,  walked  right  into  a 
pair,  and  went  on  without  stooping  to  take  a  second  look. 
Tlie  oiDcration  was  performed  so  quickly,  that  I  do  not  yet 
know  whether  he  knew  his  own  slippers  by  their  location, 
or  some  mark  invisible  to  Christian  eyes ;  or  Avhether  by 
some  unusual  instinct  the  toes  were  led  to  their  own  houses, 
or  whether  the  gentleman  considei'ed  it  a  matter  of  no 
importance  whose  morocco  covered  his  unsightly  members, 
so  long  as  it  was  orthodox  in  shape.  The  articles  are  worn 
slip-shod,  and  as  they  come  no  higher  than  the  lower  part 
of  the  histep,  there  is  not  much  variety  in  size. 

"  Hamed,  are  such  things  never  stolen  ?" 

"  Oh  no,  sa  !"  with  a  significant  grunt,  and  a  shrug  of  the 
left  shoulder. 

"  Never,  Ilamed  ?» 

"  No,  ncvar,  sa !  S'pose  he  steal  him,  he  cut  off  he 
hand !"  ' 

Travellers,  especially  those  who  try  to  depreciate  the 
claims  of  Christianity  by  comijaring  it  wiih  inferior  systems 
of  religion,  are  fond  of  connnenting  on  the  honesty  of 
Turks,  Arabs,  and  other  followers  of  the  Prophet,  and 


TAKGIEE. 


35 


attribute  it  to  the  teachings  and  "moral  force"  of  the 
Koran.  The  injunctions  of  the  Koran  on  this  subject  are, 
so  far  as  they  go,  very  sound  ;  but  Tve  think  it  likely  that 
the  fear  of  losing  a  hand,  for  the  first  serious  neglect  of  this 
virtue  in  transactions  among  themselves,  has  a  good  deal  to 
do  in  giving  '•'•moral  force''''  to  the  precepts  of  Mohammed. 
That  his  followers  have  no  great  regard  for  the  abstract  vir- 
tue of  honesty,  may  be  seen  in  the  fact,  that,  where  the  fear 
of  serious  penalty  was  not  before  their  eyes,  Arabs,  Moors, 
and  other  mussulmans  have  been  for  centuries  the  most 
daring  and  cruel  robbers  in  the  world.  Honesty  would 
become  a  veiy  common  vutue  in  Christendom  if  we  were  to 
chop  off  the  "  itching  palms "  of  our  light-fingered  gentry. 
Two-handed  property  would  go  up  at  the  south. 

Through  a  side  door  in  the  vestibule  Ave  caught  a  glimpse 
of  a  part  of  the  interior  of  the  mosque.  It  is  a  si^acious, 
unornamented  cii'cular  apartment ;  the  floor  of  which  is 
tessellated,  and  without  furniture.  The  posture  which  the 
Moors  assume  in  offering  their  prayers,  bringing  the  knees, 
elbows  and  forelicad  to  the  floor,  is  significantly  appropriate 
to  rebel  suppliants.  It  speaks  the  language  of  conscious 
guilt  and  unworthmess,  and  a  heartfelt  penitence  which 
seeks  to  hide  its  sins  in  the  dust.  How  much  more  becom- 
ing to  a  sinner  pleading  for  mercy,  than  the  standing,  or 
sitting  attitude,  so  general  in  the  Christian  churches  of 
America !  Let  the  deserts  of  Ethiopia  reprove  our  sloth 
and  ])ride ! 

I  imagined  that  Hamed  had  visions  of  bastinado  before 
him,  for  he  was  quite  restless  while  we  remained  near  the 
door,  and  several  times  invited  us  to  "  come  on."  We 
found  our  market-made  acquaintance,  "the  Jew,"  in  liis 


36         PEKSONAL  ADVENTUEE8  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


sliop,  an  apartment  on  the  second  floor  of  his  spacious 
house.  His  stock  in  trade  consisted,  mainly,  in  those  round 
cushions  which  in  this  country  supply  the  place  of  chairs ; 
morocco  slippers;  gaudy  and  coarse  silks  and  velvets; 
ready-made  Moorish  garments  ;  sandal  wood;  ottar  of  rose, 
and  other  perfumes ;  amber  and  other  beads,  used  by 
Mohammedans  in  telling  their  prayers;  jjipes  of  many  shapes 
and  sizes,  and  earthen  jars.  The  cushions,  made  of  richly- 
colored  morocco  leather,  are  ornamented  profusely  with 
figures  in  gold  and  silver  tinsel,  and  bright  sUks.  Slippers 
are  ornamented  in  the  same  way,  to  which  are  added,  some- 
times, jewels  of  glass,  or  precious  stone.  We  visited  other 
Jewish  establishments,  but  the  stock  in  trade  presented  but 
little  variety.  Cushions,  coarse  sUks,  sUppers,  pipes,  and 
amber  beads,  were  the  staple  articles.  Along  the  main 
street  the  Moorish  bazaars  hung  out  their  miscellaneous 
wares,  inviting  custom ;  making  uj)  in  variety  Avhat  they 
lacked  in  quality.  Stalls  of  candies,  old  iron,  hot  coffee, 
native  drugs,  gun-smiths'  shops,  and  blacksmiths'  shops 
succeeded  each  other  in  noisy  disorder.  Clouds  of  opium 
smoke,  loud  talking  and  small  sales,  seemed  to  be  the  order 
of  the  day  witli  tliem ;  and  we  soon  found  that  if  we  wanted 
anything  valuable,  Ave  must  get  it  from  the  Jews,  for  the 
trade  of  Tangier  is  in  their  hands.  We  returned  to  the 
house  of  "the  Jew,"  and  after  much  talking  and  jewing,  on 
the  part  of  both  Jew  and  Gentile,  purchased  lialf  a  dozen 
cushions,  a,t  two  dollars  each  ;  as  many  pairs  of  slippers,  the 
plain  at  a  dollar,  and  the  tinsel-embroidered  at  two  dollars 
a  pair ;  and  as  many  vials  of  ottar  of  rose,  contauiing  thirty 
drops  each  at  forty-eight  cents  apiece. 
The  Jewish  women,  who  are  very  beautiful,  walk  the 


TANGIEE. 


3T 


streets  unveiled.  Their  costume,  though  two  or  three 
thousand  years  behind  the  age,  is,  to  my  taste,  more  beau- 
tiful, and  more  ai:)propriate  to  the  sex,  than  any  of  the  styles 
which  the  heau  monde  has  produced  in  many  centuries. 
The  outer  garment,  or  gown,  is  generally  of  rich  velvet  or 
heavy  silk,  close  fitting  body,  flowing  sleeves,  and  open  in 
front,  cl  la  robe  de  chambre  ;  bordered  around  and  in  front 
with  gold  or  silver  lace,  turned  back  at  the  corners  with 
some  brightly  colored  silk,  displaying  an  underskirt  of 
elaborate  needle-work.  "  She  maketh  herself  coverings  of 
tapestry ;  her  clothing  is  silk  and  purple."  The  luxuriant 
tresses  for  Avhich  Jewish  women  are  everywhere  celebrated 
are  Avith  these  supported  in  sillcen  nets  which  liang  do\vn 
the  back,  often  reaching  the  Avaist.  Tlie  head  and  shoulders 
are  generally  covered  with  an  ample  veil  of  lace,  or  other 
light  fabric,  fastened  to  the  hair  by  brilliant  pins.  The 
upper  angle  of  this  head-dress  is  brought  to  a  point  on  the 
centre  of  the  foreliead,  Avhere  it  terminates  in  a  rosette,  con- 
taining ornaments  of  gold  and  jewels  in  jiroporlion  to  the 
taste  and  means  of  the  wearer.  Solomon  recommends 
that  certain  excellent  qualities  be  as  prominent  in  the 
character  "  as  frontlets  between  thine  eyes."  Anglo- 
Saxon  women  have  a  considerable  advance  yet  to  make,  in 
refinement  of  taste,  before  they  can  equal  those  chaste  and 
attractive  styles  of  personal  adornment  whicli  the  daughters 
of  Judah  have  possessed  for  lo  these  thousands  of  years !  In- 
deed it  requires  an  eye  disciplined  in  the  beauty  of  lines, 
and  harmony  of  colors,  to  appreciate  their  taste ;  and  this 
di.scii)line  the  women  of  P]ngland  and  America  never  can 
have  while  they  are  content  to  be  imitators  of  the  tawdry 
and  novelty-loving  milliners  of  Paris.   The  style  of  features 


38         PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 


among  the  Jewesses  of  Tangiers  is  purely  Jewish  :  iu  com- 
plexion they  are  generally  brunette. 

The  Jews  resident  in  Morocco  are  confined  to  the  towns, 
where  they  occupy  a  degraded  position,  civilly  and  socially. 
Though  natives  of  the  country,  orderly  members  of  society, 
and  generally  men  of  education  and  intelligence,  they  are 
debarred  all  civil  honors  and  privileges ;  their  gi-ievances 
seldom  receive  redress,  indeed  seldom  a  hearing  ;  they  are 
enormously  taxed ;  and  when,  by  dint  of  enterprise  and  in- 
dustry, they  amass  wealth,  it  is  often  taken  from  them 
under  false  pretexts.  The  dress  and  the  pursuits  of  the 
males  are  j^rescribed  by  tyrannical  officials;  the  most  abject 
Moor  is  the  social  superior  of  the  most  wealthy  Jew ;  yet, 
despite  all  these  embarrassments,  they  are  the  most  thrifty 
portion  of  the  communities  where  they  reside,  and  the  main 
supporters  of  the  treasury  of  the  Empire.  Like  the  Jews 
of  other  countries  where  they  are  much  oppressed,  they  are 
quite  religious,  and,  so  for  as  allowed,  observe  their  feasts 
and  Sabbaths.  The  "  Loudon  Jcavs'  Society  "  supports  an 
ordained  missionary  here.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the 
prosjject  for  making  them  Cliristians  is  as  good  as  the  pro- 
spect for  their  becoming  Mohammedans.  Occasionally  a 
zealous  Moor  shows  some  desire  to  proselyte  by  stealmg  a 
child,  and  submitting  it  to  a  certain  Mahommedan  rite  in 
the  presence  of  Avitnesscs,  makes  a  convert  nolens  volens. 
The  child  may  then  be  taken  from  its  parents,  on  plea  that 
it  is  "  a  believer."  The  Roman  Catholics  in  parts  of  Europe 
make  converts  iu  the  same  way.  I  Avas  told  an  interesting 
story  of  a  little  girl  who  was  stolen  in  tliis  Avay  from  her 
parents  in  Tangier,  and — but  I  have  no  room  for  a  story  at 
present.    I  left  my  friend  at  a  Jew's  shop  admiring  some 


TANGIEE. 


39 


amber  beads  of  unusual  size,  and.  two  pretty  Jewesses  who, 
strange  to  say,  seemed  to  have  business,  wherever  we  went 
among  their  class.  They  were,  no  doubt,  pleased  with  the 
fine  figure  and  neat  uniform  of  my  companion.  He  said 
something  when  he  went  aboard  about  the  attraction  of  the 
chaplain's  spectacles ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  spec- 
tacled gentlemen  are  not  generally  popular  with  the  ladies. 

At  the  consultate  I  found  Dr.  C,  Capt.  S.  and  Lieut.  A., 
all  about  to  start  for  the  palace  of  the  Bashaw,  under 
guidance  of  Mr.  Brown,  Before  leaving  his  premises,  Mi*. 
B.  took  us  to  his  stables  to  show  us  his  "  fine  barb,"  a 
pretty  creature  of  five  years  of  age,  in  excellent  condition 
and  full  ofhfe,  yet,  gentle  as  a  fawn.  The  horse  ofBarbary 
is  too  well  known  among  us  to  need  description  in  detail 
here.  Those  that  we  saw  in  the  streets  of  Tangier  were  not 
generally  larger  than  our  Texan  mustangs,  though  some- 
what taller.  Like  the  mustangs,  they  seemed  better  formed 
for  endurance  than  speed,  yet,  in  long  races,  they  are  said 
to  be  superior  to  the  English  race-horse.  Barbs  of  average 
qualities  iliay  be  bought  here  for  one  hundred  dollars  each, 

Befoi-e  reaching  the  top  of  the  hill  on  which  the  palace  of 
the  Bashaw  is  built,  we  passed  a  guard  of  soldiers,  among 
whom  Avere  some  bond  fide  Africans.  The  Moorish  soldiers 
are  distinguished  from  the  common  jjcople  by  the  side  arms, 
powder-horns  and  bullet-pouchos  which  they  wear  con- 
stantly ;  and  by  the  head-dress,  which  is  a  close  fitting 
jockey  cap,  having  a  cape  beliind  to  protect  the  back  of  the 
neck  from  the  sun.  Tiiey  are  savage,  but  very  unmilitary 
looking  fellows.  We  had  a  hot  but  interesting  walk  ar<.)iuid 
the  outer  wall  of  the  palace  and  garden,  llow  much  llio 
gentlemen  of  our  party  desired  to  stroll  in  those  shady 


40         PERSONAL  ADVENTTTBES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


paths,  and  walk  around  that  interesting  harem — all  harems 
are  interesting  to  Americans — is  not  for  me  to  say  ;  but  the 
Bashaw  was  absent  and  there  was  no  one  else  who  had  the 
authority  to  admit  us.  The  palace  is  an  enormous  collection 
of  stone  and  mortar,  thrown  together  in  Moorish  style,  but 
without  ornament.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  high  Avail,  which 
gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  penitentiary,  and  such,  doubt- 
less, many  an  unfortunate  lass  has  found  it.  Its  chief 
characteristic  is  white  wall,  and  its  defect,  "  excess  of 
characteristic."  Descending  toward  the  lower  part  of  the 
town,  Mr.  Brown  left  us,  and  we  continued  our  walk.  I 
was  sorry  that  my  engagement  to  take  a  walk  in  the 
country  with  Hamed  in  the  evening  prevented  my  accept- 
ing his  invitation  to  dinner ;  but  our  flag  did  not  lack 
worthy  representatives  on  that  occasion. 

Under  the  guidance  of  Hamed  avc  now  turned  our  steps 
toward  the  residence  of  oiiv  Consular  agent  for  Mogadore,  to 
pay  our  respects  to  his  family — he  was  absent — and  more 
particularly  to  see  his  daughter  Hadra,  said  to  be  the  most 
beautiful  and  accomplished  J ewess  in  Tangier.  '  Think  of 
it,  reader !  these  grave  and  dignified  representatives  of  the 
various  departments  in  our  squadron,  a  fleet  surgeon,  a 
cajitain  of  marines,  a  flag  lieutenant,  a  watch-ofiicei' — Lieut. 
R.,  whom  we  picked  up  on  the  way — a  purser,  if  I  remember 
rightly,  and  a  chaj^lain,  posting  through  dusty  streets  and 
breezeless  lanes,  with  the  thermometer  at  90°  in  the  shade, 
to  see — what  ?    A  pretty  girl ! 

However,  we  were  ashore  to  see  things  beautiful  and  in- 
teresting—why not  go  to  see  a  lady  who  was  both  ?  "  Dis 
him,"  said  Ilamcd,  halting  before  the  gateway  of  a  largo 
bouse.   We  passed  through  the  arch,  and,  led  by  a  porter, 


TANGIEE. 


41 


entered  the  open  court  in  the  centre  of  the  building.  A 
fountain,  playing  in  the  centre  of  the  court,  cooled  the  air ; 
flowers,  in  pots  and  beds,  sent  up  delightful  odors ;  and  all 
the  appointments  around  indicated  the  luxury,  oriental 
taste,  and  wealth  of  the  occupants.  "We  were  shown  into  a 
richly  furnished  apartment  on  the  second  floor,  where  Jew- 
ish tapestry,  Turkish  carpets,  French  plate-glass  mirrors, 
Moorish  cushions,  and  English  chairs,  imited  in  making  a 
gorgeous  and  elegant  display.  The  lady  of  the  house  was 
too  sensible  and  well-bred  to  keep  her  visitors  waiting  ;  she 
appeared  before  we  had  taken  our  seats,  and,  though  quite 
in  dishabille,  as  an  American  lady  would  think,  made  no 
apology.  She  did  not  understand  English,  but  spoke 
French  and  Spanish  fluently.  "Wo  asked  for  the  young 
lady,  but  she  answered  that  the'  Miss  was  indisposed,  and 
could  not  be  seen.  Jliseros  7ios  f  The  captain  twisted  liis 
moustache;  A.  felt  for  his  tobacco;  R.  smoothed  his  beard, 
and  looked  wondrous  funny,  and,  taken  all  together,  we 
would  have  made  an  interesting  group  for  a  comic  almanac. 
However,  in  the  interesting  conversation  of  the  noble  lady 
of  our  Jewish  representative,  we  were  amply  repaid  for  our 
walk. 

I  left  my  shipmates  in  the  street,  and,  after  taking  a 
luncheon  of  "  bread  and  cheese  and  beer  "  at  a  hotel  kept 
by  an  English  lady,  proceeded  with  Hamed  for  a  country 
walk. 

The  country  around  Tangier  is,  for  miles,  uuiiiliabited. 
It  is  hilly;  tlic  hills  are  covered  with  grass  and  bramble, 
but  Avoodless,  and  the  scenery  is  uninteresting.  The  road 
was  dusty  and  lonely,  and  before  we  reached  the  end  of  the 
second  mile  I  began  to  think  that  I  was  not  acting  very 


42         PEKSONAi  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

prudently  in  thus  exposing  myself  among  a  treacherous 
people.  I  was  about  to  speak  my  thoughts  when  Hamed 
said : 

"  He  betta  stop,  sa." 
"  Why  so  ?" 
"  So  be,  sa!" 

"  I'd  like  to  know,  Hamed,  whether  you  arc  afraid  to  go 
further,  or  too  lazy  to  walk  ?" 

Hamed's  shrug,  as  I  emphasized  the  last  words,  showed 
me  that  I  struck  the  true  reason. 

"  Look,  sa !  j^eo^jle  come." 

A  caravan  of  camels,  donkeys,  and  Moors  was  coming 
round  the  foot  of  a  hUl,  half  a  mile  distant ;  we  sat  down, 
and  when  they  came  up,  joined  in  with  them  to  return  to 
the  city.  Hamed  si^oke  a  good  word  for  me,  and  one  of 
them  became  quite  communicative.  I  asked  him  to  show 
me  his  musket — a  Moor  never  goes  a  mile  from  home  with- 
out a  gun— which  he  did,  after  shaking  the  powder  from  the 
pan.  Those  muskets  are  remarkable  for  their  length,  the 
thinness  of  the  barrel,  and  the  lightness  of  the  stock.  The 
butt  of  the  stock  is  made  to  fit  the  shoulder  like  the  head 
of  a  crutch.  This,  like  others  that  I  noticed,  was  j^ro- 
fusely  mounted  with  figures  in  brass  and  ivory.  I  asked  . 
permission  to  discharge  it,  but  he  shook  his  head.  Tlio 
camels  were  "  nine  day  "  in  the  interior,  laden  with  gram, 
wax,  black  soap,  and  hides  or  leather,  I  could  not  under- 
stand which.  Tlie  wheat  of  Morocco,  known  among  us  as 
the  Barbary  wheat,  is  a  lai-ge  and  full  grain  of  red  husk, 
much  like  the  wheat  of  Madeira  and  the  Canaries,  but 
larger.  I  procured  a  peck  of  it,  but  before  I  reached 
America  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  weevil.    I  asked  the 


TA2fGIER. 


43 


Moor  how  they  preserved  wheat  fi"om.  this  insect  in  his 
country.  He  said :  by  burying  it  in  the  ground ;  and  that, 
in  that  condition,  it  would  keep  for  years. 

These  camels  are  the  Arabian,  or  one-humped,  species, 
commonly  called  dromedaries.  I  told  Hamed  to  catch  me 
one  of  the  young  camels  that  followed  in  the  caravan,  that 
I  might  take  a  near  surs  ey  of  his  mouse-colored  coat.  The 
little  creature  seemed  quite  willing  for  Hamed  to  touch 
him,  but  when  I,  an  infidel,  put  my  hand  on  his  prophet- 
consecrated  shoulder,  the  beast  made  a  sudden  spring, 
knocked  me  down,  and  ran  over  me,  to  the  great  delight 
of  the  Moors.  Hjs  dam  took  after  Hamed  vrith  pricked 
ears  and  open  mouth,  and  the  way  that  gentleman's  slippers 
and  turban  disappeared  over  the  hill  was  iateresting  even 
to  me.  As  I  brushed  the  dust  from  my  clothes,  I  be- 
thought me  of  a  popular  individual  in  the  Land  of  "Washing- 
ton, who  figures  largely  in  stump  and  temperance  speeches 
under  the  name  of  "  the  boy  that  the  calf  ran  over." 

"The  Jew"  was  standing  at  his  door  as  we  passed,  and 
invited  me  in  to  drink  a  little  arrakee.  Pleased  with  an 
opportunity  of  tasting  that  classic  beverage,  I  consented, 
and  drank  his  health  in  a  glass  a  little  larger  than  a 
thimble.  If,  in  attempting  to  describe  it,  I  should  say  that 
it  is  not  precisely  like  gin,  you  would  infer  that  I  am 
acquainted  with  gin  ;  and  if  I  were  to  add  neither  is  it  like 
whisky,  yon  might  say  that  I  am  a  judge  of  that  vulgar 
drink ;  and  if  I  were,  still  further,  to  add  that  it  bears  some 
resemblance  to  a  mixture  of  both,  with  a  dash  of  orgeat 
cordial,  you  would  say,  the  gentleman  is  quite  a  connoisseur 
in  liquors,  and  this  would  be  a  poor  compliment  to  my 
cloth ;  so  I  will  say  nothing  about  it.     I  took  leave  of 


44         TERSONAL  ADVENTTJEES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


Hamed  on  the  beach,  after  trusting  him  to  go  back  to  tho 
city  with,  a  sovereign  to  change  it.  As  I  stepped  into  the 
boat,  he  said : 

"  You  think  Hamed  good  man,  sa  ?" 

"  Yes,"  said  I,  "  Hamed  is  a  good  man,  and  honest." 

Pie  went  away  satisfied,  muttering  to  himself  the  words 
in  which  he  recommended  liis  services : 

" Hamed  good  man — eberybody  know  Hamed!" 

The  Moors  of  this  vicinity  are  a  mixed  race,  representing 
the  blood  of  the  Arab,  the  Berber,  and  the  African.  They 
call  themselves  JToosJim,  or  believers,  to  distinguish  them 
from  those  tribes  of  the  country  who  have  not  so  fully 
embraced  Mahomctanism.  Their  hair  is  straight  and  dark ; 
their  skin  is  of  every  shade  from  blonde  to  black ;  features 
small,  and  generally  of  aquiline  tendency.  Theii*  eyes  and 
teeth  are  beautiful ;  and  in  figure  they  are  tall  and  slender 
and  well  proijortioned.  They  are  indolent,  taciturn,  selfish 
and  treacherous.    The  city  contains  about  twelve  thousand. 

Tangier  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  Sophax, 
who  was  believed  to  have  been  the  son  of  Hercules  and 
Tinga ;  the  city  he  named  after  his  mother.  In  the  Greek 
of  Plutarch  it  is  called  Tingene ;  and,  according  to  Strabo, 
it  has  been  called  Tinga,  Liuga,  and  Lixus.  Some  believe 
the  city  to  have  been  built  by  Anta>us,  the  first  husband 
of  Tinga.  It  is  certain  that  it  was  rebuilt  by  Julius  Cajsar 
as  the  centre  of  a  Roman  colony  planted  by  him.  A  few 
ruins,  a  short  distance  to  the  northeast  of  the  present  city, 
mark  the  site  of  the  old  town.  It  was  besieged  and  taken 
by  Seitorius,  who,  hearing  the  natives  speak  of  the  giant 
size  of  Antajus,  to  gratify  his  curiosity  opened  his  tomb, 
and  was  so  overwhelmed  at  the  proportions  of  the  skeleton, 


TAKGIEE. 


45 


that  he  offered  sacrifice  to  it  and  restored  it  to  its 
place. 

Henry  of  Portugal  possessed  himself  of  Tangier  in  the 
fifteenth  century ;  and  since  that  time  it  has  been  held  for 
short  periods  by  many  European  po^yers.  It  was  given  to 
England  as  a  marriage  portion  with  Catherine  when  she 
became  the  wife  of  Charles  the  Second,  but  in  1684  they 
demolished  its  forts  and  abandoned  it. 

The  commerce  of  Tangier  is  insignificant,  but  an  active 
trade  in  jioultry,  meats,  and  vegetables  is  kept  up  between 
it  and  Gibraltar.  Grain,  beeswax,  and  leather  are  the  chief 
articles  of  exportation.  The  insecurity  of  property  in  this 
country,  where  the  will  of  the  emperor  is  the  only  law,  is, 
perhaps,  the  chief  reason  why  foreign  merchants  do  not 
foi-m  establishments  here.  It  was  the  opinion  of  our  enter- 
prising consul,  Mr,  Brown,  that  he  would  be  able  to  make 
such  terms  Avith  the  emperor  as  would  place  American 
trade  with  Tangier  on  a  sure  footing.  It  is  backed  by  a 
healthy  and  productive  country,  and  may  one  day  bo  a 
commercial  port  of  great  importance.  Not,  however,  till 
the  crescent  Avanes,  and  the  day-spring  dawns. 

As  I  gazed  on  the  receding  shore  the  following  evening, 
my  thoughts  were  with  "  the  Jew  "  and  his  down-trodden 
brethren  ;  and  as  I  remembered  the  motto  on  the  posts  of 
his  door,  and  those  of  other  Jews,  "  Hoar,  O  Israel,  the 
Loi-d  our  God  is  one !"  I  felt  it  in  my  heart  to  pray  that 
they  might  soon  add  to  it  tlie  motto  of  the  New  and  better 
Covenant:  "And  this  is  Eternal  Life;  to  know  thee,  the 
only  true  God,  and  Jesus  Christ  whom  thou  hast  sent." 


CHAPTER  III. 


TANGIER — CONCLUDED. 

"  The  land  shadowing  with  wings  which  is  beyond  the  rivers  of  Ethiopia."— Isaiah. 

First  Impressions — Significrmco  of  Physical  Aspect — Historical  Review — 
Unanswered  Questions — Plioenicians,  Carthaginians,  Egyptians — Africa 
of  the  Ancients  —  Portuguese  Navigators — Dutclv  Traders — English 
Trade  with  the  Coast — Decline  of  Trade  with  Portugal — Geographical 
Divisions  of  the  West  Coast — The  Senegal,  and  French  Trade. 

Aeeica  is,  in  all  respects,  a  laud  of  deci)  shades.  As  tlie 
voyager  approaches  the  western  shores  of  its  intertropical 
regions,  he  beholds  them  enveloped  in  a  dense  haze,  and 
beneath  this  gloomy  pall  his  imagination  spreads  the  wild 
chai'ms,  the  bloody  rites  and  the  exuberant  deformities  of 
savage  life.  As  he  enters  the  mysterious  borders  he  beholds 
turbid  rivers,  deep  and  sombre  forests,  impenetrable  jungles 
and  offensive  swamps,  and  a  race  of  beings  upon  whom 
night  has  set  her  ineffaceable  signet.  The  physical  aspects 
which  Nature  here  jircsents  are  to  him  symbolic,  and  their 
many-voiced  utterances  tell  of  the  moral  and  intellectual 
darkness  which  covers  the  people. 

Yet  Africa  is  a  land  of  sunshine,  and,  -without  a  paradox, 
the  liu;ht  :ind  darkness  dAvell  toiyether.  Above  the  Ilarmat- 
tan  fog,  which  generally  disappears  before  noon,  the  sky  is 
clear  and  cloudless,  and  the  sun  shines  in  his  strength  ;  and 
the  bosom  of  the  dense  forests,  beneath  Avhose  luxiniaut 
foliage  men  walk  in  deep  shadows,  glistens  in  the  light  of 

40 


TANGEEE. 


47 


eternal  summer.  Why  may  we  not  regard  these  facts,  also, 
as  symbols  which  nature  has  hung  out  to  sj)eak  the  present 
or  the  future  of  intellectual  and  spmtual  Africa  ?  Symbols, 
and  significant  symbols  they  are  ;  but  as  we  read  the  former 
and  nearer  as  descriptive  of  the  present,  we  must  read  the 
latter  and  more  remote  as  prophetic.  An  intellectual  and 
spiritual  dust  fog,  gloomy  and  death-bearing,  now  reigns 
over  Africa;  but  when  the  noon  of  the  race  shall  have 
come,  the  increasmg  light  wiU  dissipate  the  clouds.  Ignor- 
ance and  superstition,  Uke  the  thick  foliage  of  her  forests, 
spread  abroad  a  deadly  shade,  but  when  the  hands  of  Reli- 
gion and  Science  have  torn  away  and  rooted  out  these 
natural  growths,  the  unobstructed  rays  of  the  Sun  of 
Righteousness,  beaming' spiritual  and  intellectual  light,  shall 
fall  upon  the  long  shaded  race ;  and  when  these  obstruc- 
tions are  removed,  her  light  may  be  as  bright  and  enduring 
as  her  darkness  has  been  deep  and  hideous.  But  if  dark- 
ness is  the  characteristic  of  the  moral  aspect  which  Africa 
presents,  we  may  safely  say  that  thick  darkness  covers  the 
origin  and  the  history,  of  her  hundred  tribes,  thejr  many 
languages,  and  reUgious  rites. 

Did  the  Phcemcians  circumnavigate  this  continent  ? 

If  they  did  not,  how  did  they  find  out  that  beyond  cer- 
tain latitudes  "  the  sim  is  on  the  right  hand,"  or  north, 
"  casting  shadows  to  the  left,"  or  south ;  and  that  Africa  is 
not  connected  witii  any  other  continent  than  that  of  Asia, 
by  the  isthmus  of  Suez  ?  If  they  did,  how  in  their  tiny 
barks  did  they  survive  the  stormy  waters  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  tiie  tempestuous  waves  whicli  roll  continu- 
ally on  the  soutlieni  and  western  shores.  How  did  they 
provLsion  themselves?     If  they  landed  at  intervals  and 


48  PEESOlfAL  ADVENTUKES  XST)  0B3EEVATI0NS. 

sowed  and  reaped  crops  of  grain — as  is  claimed  for  them — 
how  did  they  escape  the  pestilences  of  the  coast  so  fatal  to 
the  unacclimated  ?  Considering  their  ignorance  of  geogra- 
phy, navigation,  and  the  astronomy  of  southern  skies,  by 
what  laws  did  they  find  their  way  ?  To  attempt  to  follow 
the  line  of  the  coast  would  be  fatal,  even  in  these  days  of 
giant  ships  and  accurate  na^ngation. 

These  are  questions  which  will  likely  remain  forever 
unanswered. 

Whatever  Necho  and  his  subjects  may  have  known  of  the 
conformation  and  resources  of  Afiica,  nothing  that  they 
revealed  was  considered  reliable  or  profitable  by  the  gene- 
rations immediately  following.  Polybius  tells  us  that  in  his 
time  it  was  not  knoMTi  whether  Africa  was  united  to 
another  continent  at  the  south,  or  surrounded  by  the  sea 
Strabo  makes  no  pretension  to  knowledge  on  the  subject ; 
and  Ptolemy,  the  most  learned  of  ancient  geographers, 
describes  it  as  becoming  "  broader  and  broader  toward  the 
south,"  and  "reaching  the  south  pole."  Cape  Xon,  or 
Nun,  was  long  the  non  plus  xdtra  of  the  ancients  on  the 
"West  Coast ;  but  there  is  reason  for  believing  that  the 
Carthaginian  fleet  under  Hanno  doubled  that  stormy  cape 
and  explored  the  shores  as  far  as  Sherbro  Sound  ;  and  also, 
that,  in  their  trading  expeditions,  they  penetrated  for  into 
Central  Africa.  It  is  evident,  from  certain  remains  foimd 
on  the  banks  of  the  Niger,  that  the  Egyptians  once  had 
commerce  with  the  tribes  of  the  interior,  but  it  is  not  likely 
that  they  over  reached  the  shores  or  tribes  of  the  West 
Coast.  Herodotus,  and  Endrisi,  an  Arabian  geographer, 
make  mention  of  a  great  river  in  Africa  which  the  latter 
denominates  "  the  Nile  of  the  negroes."    This  is  perhaps, 


TANGIER. 


49 


identical  with  tlie  Gir  of  Ptolemy  and  the  Niger  of  modem 
geographers. 

We  suggest  that  in  a  union  of  these  names  Nile  and  Gir 
we  have  the  etymology  of  the  term  Niger. 

In  speaking  of  this  continent,  we  must  ever  bear  in  mind 
that  the  Africa — Africa  Propria — and  Ethiopia  of  the 
classic  and  inspired  writers  are  to  the  north  of  the  southern 
borders  of  the  Great  Desert.  What  is  to  us  Africa  proper, 
they  called  Africa  Interior ;  but  in  a  few  instances,  we  find 
them  applying  the  terms  Ethiopia  and  Africa,  as  general 
terms,  to  the  entire  continent. 

TLe  Afj  •ica  of  the  moderns  is  entirely  to  the  south  of  the 
Sahara ;  and  their  Ethiopia  is  a  large  interior  district, 
not  very  accurately  defined,  extending  some  seven  degrees 
on  each  side  of  the  equator.  But  we  have  said  enough  of 
the  distant  and  dubious  past. 

In  the  early  part  of  tlie  fifteenth  century  the  noble  and 
enterprising  Henry,  Prince  of  Portugal,  fitted  out  several 
expeditious  for  the  purpose  of  exjjloring  the  shores  of 
Western  Africa.  To  one  of  the  first,  and  the  most  profit- 
able, of  these  expeditions  we  have  referred  in  our  account 
of  the  discovery  of  Madeira.  The  attention  which  the 
prmce  bestowed  on  the  newly-fouiul  islands  arrested  for  a 
while  tlie  i)rogrcss  of  the  coast  explorations;  but  m  1433 
they  were  resumed  with  new  courage,  and  Gillianez,  com- 
mander of  an  expedition,  after  doubling  Cape  Bojador,  re- 
turned with  glowing  accounts  of  the  broad  land  beyond. 
Emboldened  by  their  successful  passage  of  the  stormy 
cape,*  they  renewed  their  efforts  to  penetrate  still  further, 

*  I  cannot  find  eudicicnt  authority  for  beliovrng  that  the  French  of 
Normandy  doubled  Capo  Bojador  before  tho  Portuguese. 

3 


50  PERSON^AL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


and,  in  order  to  secure  the  newly  discovered  territories  to 
the  croAvn  of  Portugal,  Henry  applied  to  Pope  Martin  V. 
for  a  title  to  that  eflect.  In  tliose  days,  islands  and  conti- 
nents, as  Avell  as  thrones  and  kingdoms,  were  in  the  gift  of 
the  Roman  PontiiF;  and,  m  order  to  show  liis  approval  of 
the  efforts  of  the  young  prince,  and  also  to  reward  him  for 
his  outlay,  Martin  made  a  grant,  assigning  to  Portugal  all 
lauds  and  islands  which  had  been  or  might  be  discovered 
between  Cape  Bojador  and  the  East  Indies. 

So  far  was  this  grant  respected  by  the  sovereigns  of 
Europe  that,  in  the  time  of  EdAvard  IV,,  a  company  of 
Englishmen  wlio  were  preparing  to  sail  to  Africa,  on  a  voy- 
age of  discovery,  were  stopped  by  that  prince,  who  gave  as 
a  reason  for  his  mterference,  that  he  had  just  been  informed 
of  the  Pope's  grant.  Before  the  death  of  Henry,  which 
occurred  in  UG3,  Antonio  Gonzales  and  Nuuo  Tristan 
explored  the  coast  as  far  as  Sierra  Leone. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  reign  of  Alfonso,  suc- 
cessor to  Henry,  Fernando  Gomez  formed  the  trade  of  the 
coast,  paying  to  the  crown  for  this  exclusive  privilege  five 
hundred  ducats  annually ;  also  pledging  himself  to  explore 
the  coast  five  hundred  leagues  southward.  He  fulfilled  his 
engagement;  and  before  the  year  1481,  his  navigators  had 
surveyed  the  coast  as  for  south  as  the  Congo. 

John  H.,  successor  to  Alfonso,  established  trading  sta- 
tions, and  built  several  forts,  on  the  coast  of  Guinea ;  com- 
pleted a  survey  of  the  shore  as  far  as  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  by  his  navigator,  Gama,  found  communication 
y\  ith  India  by  the  highway  of  the  seas. 

The  attention  of  Europe  was  now  turned  to  the  new  con- 
tinent  which  Columbus  had  given  to  the  world,  and  the 


TANGIEK. 


51 


Portuguese  enjoyed  a  century  of  undisturbed  and  profitable 
trade  with  the  Ivory  and  Gold  Ooasts  of  Africa. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  demand 
for  laborers,  in  the  rich  and  widening  fields  of  the  West 
Indies  and  Spanish  America,  suggested  the  idea  of  making 
a  profitable  trade,  by  buying  negroes  in  Africa  and  selling 
them  in  the  markets  of  the  new  world.  The  Portuguese, 
who  had  already  entered  the  slave  trade  between  the  coast 
and  the  markets  of  Europe,  now  established  lines  of  slavers 
between  the  towns  of  Guinea  and  St.  Domingo.  The 
profitableness  of  this  trade^soon  attracted  the  attention  of 
the  Dutch,  who  were  then  in  the  height  of  their  maritime 
glory.  With  such  an  appeal  to  their  cupidity,  and  the 
growing  disposition  of  the  age  to  question  the  authority  of 
popes  in  things  temporal,  Martin's  grant  of  exclusive  pos- 
session and  right  of  trade  to  Portugal  was  no  longer  heeded. 
They  anchored  their  vessels  off  the  trading  settlements, 
entered  the  forts  by  force,  and  so  completely  took  the 
trade  into  their  own  liands,  that,  at  the  close  of  1637,  there 
was  not  a  Portuguese  trading  station  on  the  Gold  Coast. 
The  English  followed  the  example  of  the  Dutch,  drove 
them  in  turn  from  several  of  their  forts,  of  which  we  shall 
speak  more  particularly  under  appropriate  heads,  and  for 
many  years  the  British  lion  fattened  himself  on  the  hon's 
share  of  the  African  slave  trade.  His  conscience  did  not 
then  interfere  with  his  digestion ;  he  hunted,  ate,  and  slept 
well ;  and  his  coat  became  smooth  and  glossy.  Some  will 
have  it,  that  ho  was  a  groAvn  lion  tlien — that  the  relative 
positions  of  consoieuoo  and  stomach  were  permanently 
fixed — that  they  are  now  in  statu  quo — and  that  if  liis 
peptic  strengtii  is  not  now  what  it  was  tlien,  something 


52         PERSONAL  ADTEXTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


other  than  moral  sensibility  interferes  with  the  capacity  of 
his  powerful  organs  to  asimilate  such  food.  We  are  dis- 
posed, however,  to  attribute  only  the  best  of  qualities  to 
the  noble  and  venerable  brute  ;  and  to  hope  that,  like 
some  other  heaven-favored  sinners,  he  has  been  blest  with 
an  increase  of  conscientious  sensibility  in  his  old  age. 
The  English  were  followed  by  the  Sj^anish  and  French, 
and  of  their  trade  and  settlements  we  shall  speak  here- 
after. 

The  bounds  of  what  is  termed  the  West  Coast  are  not 
uniformly  defined  by  geographers,  but  for  our  jwesent  pur- 
pose we  shall  consider  it  as  embracing  all  that  part  of  the 
African  coast  which  lies  between  the  southern  borders  of 
the  Great  Desert,  and  the  country  of  the  Cimbebas,  Avhich 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Benguela,  and  on  the  south  by 
the  land  of  the  Hottentots.  West  Africa  may  be  divided 
into  three  grand  divisions,  namely,  Senegambia,  Upper 
Guinea,  and  Lower  Guinea.  The  coast  of  Upper  Guinea  is 
divided  into  Liberia,  which  extends  from  the  Gallinas 
River  to  the  San  Pedro ;  the  Ivory  Coast,  which  extends 
from  San  Pedro  to  Cape  Tliree  Points ;  the  Gold  Coast, 
which  lies  between  Cape  Three  Points  and  Cape  St.  Paul ; 
and  the  Coast  of  the  Gulf,  or  Bight,  of  Benin,  sometimes 
called  the  Slave  Coast,  which  is  comprised  between  Cape 
St.  Paul  and  the  mouths  of  the  Niger.  Lower  Guinea  may 
be  divided  into  four  divisions — the  Coast  of  Biafra,  the 
Coast  of  Loango,  the  Coast  of  Angola,  and  the  Coast  of 
Benguela.    So  much  for  the  geogra]ihy  of  the  coast. 

From  another  standjioint  we  behold  Western  Africa 
under  three  conditions,  each  having  its  own  period : 

I.  As  the  theatre  of  exploration  and  discovery. 


TANGIER. 


53 


n.  As  the  theatre  of  wars,  piracy,  slaving,  and  all  forms 
of  crime. 

III.  As  coming  under  the  influence  of  civilization  and 
Christianity. 

It  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  conclude  this  chapter  with 
a  few  remarks  on  the  trade  of  Senegal  River,  and  the  town 
of  St.  Louis,  the  most  northern  of  the  trading  stations  on 
the  West  Coast. 

"We  went  in  the  direction  of  St.  Louis  as  far  as  the  island 
of  Goree,  which  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal.  The 
pleasure  of  seeing  for  ourselves,  and  gathering  information 
on  the  spot  was  denied  us  ;  but  the  following  facts,  which 
we  gathered  from  resident  merchants  of  the  adjoining 
trading  town,  Bathurst,  English  and  American  traders,  and 
reliable  authors,  may  meet  most  of  the  questions  Avhich  the 
reader  will  ask  concerning  such  a  place. 

In  the  year  1637,  the  French  made  a  settlement  on  an 
island  in  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal,  and  there  subsequently 
built  a  town  whicli,  in  honor  of  Louis  XIV.,  they  called 
Saint  Louis.  If  the  reader  M  ants  to  know  how  that  noto- 
rious sinner  came  to  be  a  saint,  wo  would,  as  the  most 
probable  solution  of  his  question,  remind  him  of  an  old 
song  which  runs  thus  : 

"  Tlie  Devil  got  sick, 

Tho  Devil  a  saint  would  be  , 
The  Devil  got  well, 

Then  devil  a  saint  was  he." 

This  to\v^l  was  taken  by  the  British  iu  175G,  but  was  re- 
covered by  the  French  in  1779.  During  the  French  Revo- 
lution,  it  fell  again  into  the  hands  of  tho  British,  but  was 


PEESONAL  ADVENTTTEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


ceded  to  France  at  the  restoration  of  tlie  Bourbons.  By 
treaty  with  tlie  natives,  France  has  possessed  herself  of  ex- 
tensive tracts  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  for  many  years 
has  enjoyed  exclusively  the  trade  of  an  immense  district. 
This  trade  has  always  been  jirofitable.  Among  the  natives 
they  found  ready  purchasers  for  guinea  cloth — colored  cot- 
tons—beads and  trinkets  of  French  manufacture,  for  Avhich 
they  receive  in  return  ivory,  gold  dust,  cloves,  and  gum 
Senegal— gum  of  the  acacia.  The  first  named  article  they 
continue  to  gather  in  large  quantities,  for  Avhicli  they  give, 
in  trade,  five  cents  a  pound.  Ivory  and  gold  are  not  so 
abundant  as  formerly,  but  beeswax  and  hides  have  come 
into  market,  and  the  pea-nut — ground  pea  of  the  south — 
being  found  valuable  in  commerce,  is  so  extensively  pro- 
duced by  the  natives,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  that  it  is 
now  the  staple  article. 

Pea-nuts  are  bought  here  at  sixty  cents  a  bushel,  trade 
consideration,  and  exported  to  France,  where  they  are 
manufactured  into  olive  oil  !  Do  you  doubt  the  correctness 
of  the  statement,  look  at  the  label  of  your  bottle  of  salad 
oil ;  there  it  is,  written  in  letters  of  gold,  "  ILdle  (V  Olive,'" 
and  remember  that  the  oil  manufactured  in  France  from 
olives  would  not  be  sufficient  to  supply  the  city  of  Paris  if 
used  exclusively.  However,  there  is  nothing  in  a  name. 
The  pea-nut  olive  oil  is  of  excellent  quality  when  properly 
refined. 

The  gum  Senegal  is  gathered  by  the  tribes  of  the  neigh- 
boring Saliara,  who,  at  a  certain  season,  repair  in  vast  cara- 
vans, men,  women  aud  children,  on  caniels  and  horses,  to 
the  vast  acacia  forests  which  cover  the  lands  of  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Senegal.    Here  tliey  spend  several  weeks 


TANGIEK. 


55 


gathering  the  gum,  which  is  found  on  the  exterior  bark  of 
the  tree,  in  hard  globules  the  size  of  a  pigeon's  egg.  When 
they  have  laden  themselves  and  their  beasts,  they  descend 
to  a  town  on  the  lower  waters,  at  which  au  annual  fair  is 
held,  and  where  they  are  met  by  the  French  merchants. 
At  a  given  signal  the  fair  is  opened,  and  lying  on  the  part 
of  the  natives,  cheating  on  the  part  of  the  French,  noise, 
broils  and  merriment,  are  kept  up  for  several  days. 

The  country  near  the  Atlantic  partakes  of  the  character 
of  the  neighboring  desert ;  it  is  flat,  sandy  and  barren.  A 
French  officer,  Avho  surveyed  and  explored  the  river  for 
several  hundred  miles  into  the  interior,  informs  us,  that  in 
the  lower  sixty  leagues  the  inclination  of  the  river  bed  is 
but  two  feet.  St.  Louis  and  its  vicinity  are  said  to  be  more 
healthy  for  Euroj»eans  than  most  places  further  south.  But 
even  here  the  life  of  the  European  is  short ;  dysentery  and 
African  fever  prevail,  at  times  carrying  olF  almost  the  entire 
white  population.  The  tribes  iu  the  vicinity  are  of  mixed 
blood,  representing  the  Negro  and  "  the  Moors  (Berbers 
most  likely)  of  the  desert."  They  are  3[ohammedans  iu 
their  religion  ;  and  though  llicy  have  had  Jesuit  missiona- 
ries and  schools  among  them  lialf  a  century,  conducted  with 
the  wisdom,  scheming  and  zeal  which  cliaracterize  every- 
where the  operations  of  that  order,  but  little  has  been  done 
in  the  way  of  making  them  Christians,  or  even  giving  them 
a  favorable  impression  of  Christianity.  At  present  there 
arc  two  or  three  young  men  in  Pirris,  sons  of  native  princes, 
who  are  receiving  instructions  in  commerce  and  tiie  Iloniish 
faith.  The  following  figures  will  show  the  rapidity  with 
which  trade  has  increased  iu  this  section,  and  its  present 
extent : 


56  PEKSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


A  reliable  French  author,  M.  Philip  Kerhallet,  states, 
that  in  1833  the  importations  were  worth  three  millions  of 
francs — exportations  a  little  more.  In  1846,  the  French 
trade  of  Senegal  was,  importations  seven  millions  of  francs, 
exportations  over  sixteen  millions !  At  present  the  trade 
Avith  Senegal  employs  over  two  hundred  vessels  and  over 
two  thousand  seamen.  It  is  steadily  and  rapidly  iucreasuig, 
and  in  1858  was  worth  over  ten  millions  of  dollars.  The 
present  value  of  the  trade  on  this  one  river,  its  rapid  increase, 
and  the  readiness  with  which — as  in  the  case  of  the  pea-nut 
— an  insignificant  article  has  been  made  a  staple  article  in 
agriculture  and  commerce,  will  surprise  many  readers. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


GAMBIA  EIVEE. 

"  Here  lofty  trees  to  ancient  song  unknown, 
The  noble  sons  of  potent  heat,  and  floods 
Prone-rushing  from  the  clouds,  rear  high  to  Heav'n 
Their  thorny  stems,  and  broad  around  them  throw 
Meridian  gloom." 

Rough  Sailing — An  African  Pilot — Civilization  and  Religion — Gambia 
River — Moonlight  Visions — Historic  Associations — Early  Settlers  and 
Explorers — Islands  of  the  River — Trade  of  the  Gambia— Bathurst — 
Missionaries  and  Mission  Stations — Tribes  of  the  Banks — An  old  Ac- 
quaintance— Civilization  advancing. 

Several  day.s  spent  in  cruising  over  the  restless  waters 
which  divide  tlie  Cai^c  Verd  Islands  from  the  African  coast, 
gave  us  an  intense  appetite  for  land  breezes,  and  brought 
us  to  that  point  of  humility  in  the  eyes  of  Neptune  Avhich 
accepts  of  "  any  port  in  a  storm."  They  were  terrible  days, 
followed  by  still  more  terrible  nights.  Days  and  nights  of 
"  close  hauled"  sailing,  angry  seas,  closed  ports,  wet  decks, 
fearful  pitching,  terrific  I'oUing ;  bilious  headaches,  despond- 
ing hearts,  sour  look.s,  cross  answers;  ennui,  nausea,  and 
general  discontent ;  but  as  we  ploughed  our  wide  way  into 
greener  waters  and  the  soundings  indicated  our  approach 
to  land,  faces  grew  brighter  ;  and  as  the  seas  subsided,  our 
spirits  ro.sc.  This  is  certainly  the  most  restless  and  un- 
pleasant portion  of  the  Atlantic  ;  it  is  swept  by  the  North- 
east Trades,  which  here  attain  their  maximum  force,  and 

3*  " 


OS  PEESOIJAL  ADVESTTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

for  at  least  uiiio  months  of  the  year  the  boisterous  winds 
and  foam-crested  waves  take  no  rejiose.  Woe  to  the  poor 
cruiser  who  has  to  beat  against  them  on  his  windward  course  ; 
let  him  exjDect  days  of  darkness,  for  they  shall  be  many ! 

In  my  memoranda  of  those  cheerless  times,  I  find  the 
following:  "Feb.  IGth.  Sick  to-day— sea-siok,  head-sick, 
heart-sick,  home-sick !  Mem.— Xever  go  to  sea  again  ! 
Take  the  Black-jack  Ridge,  or  the  Alligator  Swamp  Mis- 
sions in  preference !  Abraham  Pennington— bright  be  my 
memories  of  his  virtuous  life  !— Avas  near  the  truth  when  he 
said  that  '  the  devil  has  control  of  the  elements  sometimes,' 
This  must  be  one  of  his  ball-grounds,  and  our  officers,  our 
men,  our  ship  even,  feel  the  influence  of  his  music ;  and  a 
pretty  dance  the  old  gentleman  has  been  leading  us  for  the 
past  three  days.  The  seafaring  life  is  an  unnatural  one. 
God  made  the  dry  land  for  man,  and  he  should  stay  on  it  1 
but  if  lie  will  be  a  fool,  and  tempt  tlie  dangerous  deep,  he 
must  take  the  consequences.  So,  pipe  on  ye  winds  and 
teach  me  some  sense  !"  This  is  not  a  very  amiable  note ; 
but  if  the  reader  has  ever  been  sea-sick,  he  will  understand 
it ;  and  if  he  has  not,  let  him  be  very  charitable  toward  its 
faults,  for  he  may  be  sea-sick  himself  some  day. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  February,  1857,  wo  were 
near  the  bar  of  the  mouth  of  tlie  Gambia  river  and  twenty 
miles  from  the  land,  which  was  obscured  by  a  deep  haze. 
We  hove  to,  and  made  signal  for  a  pilot  by  firing  a  gun. 
At  noon,  a  stout  little  vessel  of  Englisli  rig  came  alongside, 
and  a  naked  gentleman,  tall,  dignified  and  black,  made  his 
api)earance  on  the  quarter-deck.  Advancing  to  the  com- 
miiiuler,  he  introduced  himself  with  a  low  bow  and  a  scrapo 
of  his  right  foot,  saying — 


GAMBIA  EFVEE. 


59 


"  I'sc  de  pilit,  sa." 

"  Do  you  speak  English  ?"  said  the  captain. 

"  Oh  ya,  sa !    I'se  b'long  to  de  English  town." 

"  Don't  jjilots  Avear  clothes  in  your  country  ?"  said  the 
officer,  as  he  made  deliberate  survey  of  the  ebony  Adonis 
before  him. 

"Oh  ya,  sa!"  he  rei^lied,  casting  a  glance  at  a  small  bim- 
dle  under  his  arm,  "  I'se  tend  to  him  bim  by,"  and  without 
further  ceremony  he  mounted  the  horse-block  with  the  air 
of  an  admiral,  sajdng,  "  S'pose  you  fill-away,  Cap'n,  de  tide 
be  flood." 

lie  was  the  lion  of  the  hour ;  a  fine  specimen  of  the  half- 
civilized  African ;  nor  was  there  any  mistaking  the  type  of 
his  civihzation.  With  all  the  self-possession  of  the  English- 
man and  the  pomposity  of  the  Afiican,  he  played  the  cock- 
ney well,  in  spite  of  his  breechless  exterior,  and  gave  us  a 
favorable  impression  of  the  young  England  of  the  Gambia. 
While  the  officer  of  the  deck  v»'a8  "  making  sail,"  he  went 
to  the  main  gangway,  where  he  imrolled  his  bundle  of  rogs, 
and  after  several  attempts  to  get  his  head  and  arms  through 
the  proper  holes,  worked  himself  into  a  shirt  that  had  evi- 
dently seen  better  days  ;  and  then  drew  on  three-quarters 
of  a  pair  of  breeches,  composed  of  a  front,  a  waist-band,  a 
leg  and  a  half,  and  two  pockets.  lie  completed  his  toilet, 
which  I  was  impolite  enough  to  witness  with  a  great  deal 
of  interest,  by  putting  on  the  topless  crown  of  a  straw  haL 
I  handed  him  the  spy-glass,  with  which  I  had  been  trying 
to  find  the  laud,  and  which  he  put  under  his  arm,  d  la  mllL 
tuire,  and  now,  in  the  full  dress  of  a  run-away  scare-crow, 
presented  the  most  interesting  union  of  the  dignified  and 
ridiculous  that  mortal  eyes  ever  beheld. 


60         PEESONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


But  I  found  bim  interesting  in  other  respects.  He  was 
well  acquainted  with  the  trade  of  the  river,  the  officers  and 
missionaries  of  the  station,  and  informed  me,  with  much 
pride  of  manner,  that  he  had  received  all  his  education  from 
the  missionaries.  On  learning  my  office  on  board,  be  be- 
came quite  communicative ;  said  that  for  many  years  be 
had  been  a  Wesleyan  Methodist ;  and  from  bis  conversation 
I  doubt  not  that  he  read  bis  Bible  with  profit,  that  he  was 
a  sincere  Methodist  and  a  bumble  Christian,  and  that  within 
that  dark  casket  and  ungainly  exterior  there  was  a  precious 
jewel,  even  a  ransomed  and  regenerated  soul.  We  shall 
see,  in  our  further  acquaintance  Avith  African  humanity, 
that  a  good  degree  of  scriptural  intelligence  and  personal 
religion  is  not  incompatible  with  the  half  civilized  state. 
We  advanced  slowly  up  the  smooth  and  sunlit  waters  of 
the  majestic  Gambia,  and  an  hour  before  sunset  dropped 
anchor  off  the  island  of  St.  Mary's  and  abreast  of  the 
pretty  town  of  Bathurst.  The  English  flag  was  saluted 
with  twenty-one  guns,  and  the  compliment  was  speedily 
returned.  The  flag-lieutenant  visited  the  governor  with 
the  respects  of  the  commodore,  and  a  party  of  English 
officers  from  the  garrison  came  ofi"  and  spent  tlie  evening  in 
our  ward-room  in  a  jolly  way.  I  remained  on  the  quarter- 
deck until  a  late  hour,  enjoying  the  soft  breath  of  evening 
and  the  clear  moonlight,  The  stillness  of  the  night,  the 
glistening,  quiet  river,  the  silvery  voice  of  the  gentle  ripple, 
the  slumbering  woods,  all  contrasted  so  favorably  with  the 
scenery  and  discomfort  of  the  previous  evening,  that  I  was 
loth  to  retire  to  my  dark  little  room.  Cheerfulness  and 
gratitude  had  succeeded  to  self-reproach  and  discontent, 
and  visions  of  my  loved  home  fiir  away,  scenes  and  persons 


GAMBIA  EITEK. 


61 


from  the  history  of  the  Gambia  mingled  with  fancies  born 
of  the  "wild  forest  around,  all  blending  softly  yet  obscurely, 
as  the  deep  shadow  of  the  woods  blent  with  the  dark  bosom 
of  the  river. 

Who  has  not  read  "  Mimgo  Park's  Travels  in  Africa  ?" 
and  who  that  has  read  them  can  fail  to  associate  his  name 
with  the  Gambia  ?  Long  as  its  mighty  floods  shall  roU  to 
the  Atlantic,  the  music  of  the  wave  on  its  shores  shall  soimd 
requiems  in  the  ears  of  civilized  men  to  the  memories  of 
Thompson  and  Park.  The  Portuguese  established  defences 
for  the  protection  of  their  traders  on  this  river  in  the  early 
part  of  the  16th  century,  and  for  more  than  a  hundred  years 
reaped  golden  harvests  from  the  trade  in  ivory  and  gold 
dust  which  they  carried  on  with  the  tribes  of  its  banks. 
But  though  it  is  likely  that  they  penetrated  far  into  the 
interior,  their  observations  contributed  but  little  toward 
imfolding  the  geography  or  ethnography  of  Africa.  Gold 
was  the  debasing  object  of  their  pui-snit,  until  they  entered 
that  trade  which  is,  of  all  others,  the  most  degrading  to  the 
feelings  and  intellect  of  tliose  who  pursue  it,  namely,  slave 
hunting.  With  such  objects  before  them,  their  eyes  were 
closed  to  the  majestic  forms,  and  brilliant  garb,  and  varied 
life,  which  nature  here  presents. 

It  is  claimed  for  commercial  men  and  trading  adventurers 
that  they  have  contributed  most  toward  extending  our 
knowledge  of  geography  and  mankind,  and  in  promoting 
civilization.  We  grant  that  they  have  done  much ;  but  be 
it  remembered  that  they  have  performed  only  a  secondary 
part  in  these  works. 

In  the  tropical  as  in  frigid  zones,  the  most  successful  ex- 
plorers have  been  men  who  were  actuated  by  nobler  motives 


62 


PERSONAL  ADVENTUEE3  AND  0BSEKVATI0X9. 


than  the  pursuit  of  gain.  Prince  Henry  of  Poi  tugal,  Mungo 
Park,  the  Landers,  Wilson,  Boweu,  Livingstone,  Earth, 
Franklin,  and  Kane,  were  men  -R-hose  adventures  were 
prompted  by  incentives  to  which  the  mere  trader  is  a 
stranger. 

In  1618  a  company  was  formed  in  England  for  the  pur- 
pose of  exploring  the  Gambia.  Richard  Thompson  was  sent 
out  at  the  head  of  a  small  party,  and  furnished  with  ten 
thousand  dollars  worth  of  goods  and  trinkets,  by  distribut- 
ing which  he  hoped  to  gain  the  good  will  of  the  natives,  and 
pursue  his  course  to  the  headwaters  of  the  river.  He  arrived 
safely  on  the  coast  in  a  vessel  called  the  Catharine,  and  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river  as  far  as  Kissan,  a  fortified  town  occu- 
pied by  Portuguese  traders.  The  traders,  who  considered 
themselves  the  rightful  owners  of  all  western  Africa,  re- 
ceived him  with  coolness,  and  watched  his  movements  with 
jealousy.  Here  he  left  his  vessel  and  most  of  her  crew,  and 
pushed  up  the  river  in  small  boats  ;  but  soon  after  bis  depar- 
ture, his  men  in  the  vessel  were  murdered  by  the  natives, 
urged  on  by  the  Portuguese.  Thompson  never  returned ; 
and  his  fate  is  unknown. 

Two  years  after  his  departure,  Richard  Jobson  was  sent 
out,  and  at  the  head  of  a  small  party  sailed  up  the  Gambia, 
in  small  boats,  to  a  point  more  than  a  hundred  miles  above 
the  falls  of  Baraconda,  now  the  head  of  navigation,  and 
three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  coast.  He  was  the 
first  to  give  any  reliable  account  of  the  country  on  the  upper 
waters,  the  peo2)lc  and  tlieir  habits.  The  natives  told  him 
that  Thompson  had  been  murdered  by  his  own  crew ;  but 
as  none  of  that  crew  were  ever  after  found,  it  is  likely  that 
they  were  all  massacred  by  the  natives  at  the  instigation  of 


GAiEBIA  KITEE. 


63 


the  traders.  He  was  informed  by  one  Bucbar  Sano,  a  native 
merchant,  that  far  np  the  stream  there  v»'as  a  country  of 
much  gokl ;  but  after  continuing  his  course  three  months  he 
returned  without  seeing  the  Bculah  of  his  hopes. 

Hearing  of  this  land  of  gold,  Vermuyden,  a  mei'chant  who 
had  resided  some  tune  on  the  river,  led  another  expedition 
up  the  stream  in  1615,  but  did  not  advance  more  than  a  hun- 
dred miles  beyond  the  falls.  Nothing  more  was  done  by 
the  English  until  1*72 3,  when  Captain  Stibbs  was  sent  out, 
by  a  company,  iu  command  of  a  small  party.  The  idea  now 
prevailed  in  Europe  that  the  Gambia  was  a  branch  of  the 
Nigei',  and  by  continuing  upward  Stibbs  hoped  to  enter  that 
stream.  Sickness,  and  other  mishaps  attended  his  expedi- 
tion, and  after  going  sixty  miles  beyond  the  falls  he  was 
compelled  to  rc-tum.  In  1791,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Af- 
rican Company,  Major  Houghton,  a  gentleman  of  rank,  in- 
telligence, and  sanguine  spirit,  undertook  the  hopeless  task 
of  exploring  the  Gambia,  by  travelling  along  its  banks  on 
foot  and  alone.  Don  Quixote's  charge  on  the  windmill  was 
wisdom  compared  with  this  undertaking.  TIic  noble  man 
was  lured  from  his  course  by  a  party  of  Moors,  who,  after 
robbing  him  of  his  last  garment,  left  him  to  perish  in  the 
forest.  Mungo  Park  entered  these  waters  in  1795,  but  after 
going  some  distance  up  stream,  pursued  his  journey  over- 
land, and  by  dint  of  a  brazen  constitution  and  unusual  com- 
mon ecnsc,  worked  his  way  among  the  natives  until  he 
reached  the  cool  waters  of  the  Xiger  at  a  point  near  a  thou- 
sand miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia. 

He  saw  the  great  river  fldwiiig  eastward,  and  satisfied 
with  the  result  of  his  adventure,  and  full  of  thrilling  expe- 
riences of  life  among  the  negroes,  he  returned  to  England, 


64:         PEESONAI,  ADTENTUEES  AXD  OESEEVATIONS. 

where  he  was  received  as  one  from  the  dead.  The  source 
of  the  Gambia,  and  the  comitry  on  its  headwaters  are  not 
yet  accui'ately  known,  but  enough  is  ascertained  to  dissipate 
the  idea  of  its  connection  with  the  Xiger,  and  the  romantic 
accoimts  of  cities  of  gold  glittering  on  its  upper  banks. 

There  are  several  islands  in  this  river.  St.  James  was  set- 
tled by  the  African  Company — ^English — in  lT2-t ;  and  Joar, 
a  hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  about  the  same  time.  On 
Macarthy's  Island,  two  hundred  miles  uj)  the  river,  there  is 
a  large  tradhig  town,  a  fort,  a  Methodist  church,  and  a 
schoolhouse.  To  tliis  point  the  river  is  navigable  for  vessels 
of  large  draught,  and  a  small  war-steamer  jilies  between  liere 
and  Bathurst,  superintending  the  interests  of  England.  The 
Portuguese,  long  ago,  retired  fi-om  its  banks,  the  French 
have  lately  resigned  their  forts  here,  and  the  trade  is  now 
entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  English.  To  their  liberality, 
however,  be  it  said,  that  they  give  every  facility  and  encou- 
ragement to  the  shipping  of  the  United  States.  Their  forts 
and  possessions  at  Bathurst,  and  on  Cape  St.  Mary's,  com- 
mand the  west  side  of  the  river;  and  on  the  eastern  shore 
they  have  lately  purchased  from  the  Barras  a  tract  one  mile 
wide  and  thirty  miles  long.  Here,  as  at  Senegal,  the  culti- 
vation of  the  pea-nut  has  been  encouraged,  and  the  crop 
may  now  be  estimated  at  two  millions  and  a  half  of  bushels. 
Of  this  quantity,  a  million  bushels  are  purchased  for  the 
French  markets,  and  the  remainder  are  exported  to  Eng- 
land, Germany,  and  America. 

The  American  traders  who  visit  this  river  deal  mostly  in 
hides,  horns,  and  beeswax ;  but  with  them,  also,  the  pea-niit 
will  soon  become  the  staple  article.  "Wild  honey  is  brought 
down  the  river  in  considerable  quantities,  and  is  bought  for 


GAilBIA  KlV  tK, 


65 


the  German  markets.  These  articles  are  all  brought  to 
Bathurst  in  canoes ;  and  some  idea  of  the  value  of  labor  in 
Africa  may  be  formed  by  considering  that  half  a  dozen  men 
will  spend  five  or  six  days  in  bringing  ten  bushels  of  these 
nuts  to  market,  and  then  exchange  them  for  articles  on 
which  the  merchant  makes  two  or  three  hundred  per  cent, 
profit,  at  the  rate  of  sixty  cents  a  bushel.  We  say  nothing 
of  the  labor  bestowed  to  produce  them.  It  is  likely  that  the 
present  (1858)  value  of  the  export  and  import  trade  of 
the  Gambia  is  over  five  millions  of  dollars,  and  that  the 
vessels  from  Salem  and  Xew  Tork  will  take  one  sixth  of 
it. 

Bathurst  was  settled  in  the  year  1816,  called  after  Earl 
Bathurst,  a  gentleman  whose  virtues  Pope  thought  fit  to 
immortalize  in  verse.  The  island  on  which  it  stands,  St. 
Mary's,  is  four  miles  long  and  one  broad ;  it  is  a  delta  of  the 
Gambia,  raised  on  the  inland  ade  by  the  alluvium  of  the 
river,  and  on  the  seaward  side  by  sand  thrown  up  by  the 
action  of  the  waves.  A  mangrove  swamp  occupies  a  large 
portion  of  it,  and  the  vast  quantity  of  mud  which  is  exposed 
to  the  action  of  the  sun  at  low  water,  must  contribute  greatly 
to  the  known  unhealthiness  of  the  island.  In  this  mud,  along 
the  water's  edge,  I  found  quantities  of  those  delicious  bi- 
valves of  the  genus  ostrea^  known  in  America  as  cockles,  or 
scallops.  The  town  presents  a  neat  and  business-like  aspect. 
The  houses  occupied  by  the  traders,  missionaries,  and  sjo- 
vemraent  oflicials,  are  built  of  stone,  and  are  tasty  and  sub- 
stantiaL  In  the  business,  or  dry  season,  canoes  throng  the 
beach,  and  negroes,  of  twenty  tribes,  keep  the  streets  in  an 
uproar  with  their  noisy  chattering.  The  native  residents  on 
the  island  represent  six  or  eight  tribes,  and  speak  as  many 


66  PEESOXAL  ADTEXTCEES  A>T)  0BSEEVATI0X8. 


languages,  each  lauguage  comprising  several  dialects.  They 
number  five  thousand. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  in  company  with  Dr.  C,  I 
calletl  on  the  Rev.  John  Bridgart,  superintendent  of  the 
Wesleyan  Missions  on  the  Gambia,  and  his  co-laborer,  Rev. 
Alex.  F.  Gurney.  These  gentlemen  received  us  with  much 
cordiaUty ;  showed  us  through  the  mission  premises,  school- 
house,  and  chapel — all  comfortable  and  substantial  build- 
ings of  stone,  and  kejit  in  good  order. 

The  school,  which  has  an  average  attendance  of  three 
hundred,  is  conducted  on  sound,  common-sense  principles ; 
and  the  instruction  imparted,  in  Enghsh,  is  of  a  practical 
character.  The  teachers  are  native  converts,  themselves 
graduates  of  this  school,  modest  and  intelligent  men.  Most 
of  the  scholars  have  forsaken  the  religion  of  their  fathers, 
many  of  them  are  Avortliy  members  of  the  church,  and  will 
soon  return  as  missionaries  to  their  several  tribes.  This 
mission  field,  which  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  Wesleyan 
Methodists,  is  in  a  most  promising  condition,  and  though 
young,  the  fruits  are  now  visible.  Connected  with  the 
chapels  of  St,  Mary  and  Barras  there  are  now  about  six 
hundred  members;  thirty  of  whom  arc  Sabbath-school 
teachers,  nine  local  preachers,  and  four  teachers  of  day- 
schools.  On  Macarthy's  Island  there  are  two  chapels,  with  a 
membership  of  near  three  hundred,  seven  of  whom  are  local 
preachers,  three  teachers  of  day  and  eighteen  of  Sabbath- 
schools.  The  number  of  day  scholai-s  in  this  mission  exceeds 
six  hundred,  many  of  whom  are  adults.  The  attendance  of 
the  Sabbath-schools  is  much  larger. 

These  results  demand  comment,  and  more  especially  in 
view  of  tho  common  impression  that  of  the  ^•arious  mission 


GAMBIA  EIVEE, 


67 


fields  occupied  by  the  church,  Africa  is  the  least  pro- 
ductive ;  but  we  forbear  for  the  present.  The  converts  are 
prepared  for  membership  by  long  trial,  and  careful  instruc- 
tion, but  notwithstanding,  there  arc  occasional  relapses,  not 
into  barbarism,  but  into  sin — the  sins  of  civilized  men.  I 
am  inclined  to  think,  however,  that  in  these  churches,  the 
number  of  consistent  and  zealous  Christians  bears  as  large 
a  proportion  to  the  whole  number  of  members,  as  may  be 
found  in  most  of  the  churches  of  America  or  England. 

The  climate  of  tlie  Gambia  is  in  all  respects  tropical. 
There  are  but  two  seasons — the  wet  and  the  dry.  The 
rainy  season  commences  in  June  and  ends  in  December; 
then  it  is  that  fatal  fevers  prevail,  and  missionaries  fall  in 
the  midst  of  their  labors.  There  are  stations  on  the  coast 
more  unhealtliy  than  this,  but,  even  here,  the  strongest  con- 
stitution may  not  hope  to  survive  more  than  four  or  five 
years.  It  is  an  occasion  of  gratitude  and  encouragement 
that  so  much  has  been  accomplished  in  view  of  the  constant 
ch.anges  and  fearful  mortality  among  the  missionaries, 
What  but  an  uitelligent  sense  of  duty,  and  that  sense  how 
>lrong !  could  sustain  men  in  sucli  arduous  labors,  staring 
death  in  the  face  continually,  exiled  from  civilization  and- 
most  of  its  blessings,  looking  forward  to  a  grave  among 
strangei'S,  and  a  tomb  which  the  tears  of  affection  may  not 
consecrate  to  tlie  slumbers  of  the  beloved :  and  all  this 
without  hope  of  any  earthly  reward  or  honor!  Truly  such 
men  are  heroes;  but,  because  tiieir  motives  are  too  high  for 
the  appreciation  of  the  multitude,  their  names  will  not  mark 
the  fading  annals  of  worldly  greatness. 

The  most  important  and  influential  of  tlio  surrounding 
tribes,  are  the  JoUifs  and  Barras.    In  physical  appearance 


68         PEESONAi  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


and  in  manners  the  former  resemble  the  Mandingoes,  the 
most  intelligent  people  of  the  western  coast,  and  the  roots 
of  their  language  indicate  a  common  origin.  They  are 
above  medium  height,  erect  and  bonj^,  and  perhaps  a  shade 
darker  than  the  Mandingoes.  Their  features  are  regular, 
feet  and  hands  small,  and  but  for  the  wool,  might  pass  for 
black  Moors.  They  are  more  industrious  and  intelligent 
than  many  of  the  neighboring  tribes,  owing  doubtless  to  the 
fact,  that,  centuries  ago,  they  embraced  Mohammedanism. 
Perhaps  this  feet  will  also  account  for  their  more  intel- 
lectual cast  of  countenance.  Although  professed  followers 
of  the  Prophet,  they  retain  many  of  the  superstitions  of 
their  more  barbarous  estate ;  particularly  their  love  of 
charms  or  amulets,  which  they  believe  possess  power  to 
resist  evil  si)irits  and  evil  influences.  These  are  of  various 
forms — carved  teeth  of  certain  animals,  small  leathern 
pouches  handsomely  embroidered,  contaming  texts  from 
the  Koran,  etc.  I  have  seen  as  many  as  a  dozen  of  these 
on  one  person,  suspended  from  the  neck  and  wrists,  and 
worked  into  the  hair.  The  missionaries  do  not  find  tliem 
so  accessible  as  their  less  intelligent  neighbors,  but  the 
qualities  which  make  them  firm  in  tlicir  present  religion, 
will,  when  they  arc  converted,  make  them  zealous  and  con- 
sistent Christians.  A  few  of  these  are,  however,  numbered 
in  the  triumphs  of  the  Wesleyan  missions. 

We  met  several  Jollifs  and  others  from  some  of  the  semi- 
Mohammcdanized  tribes,  in  full  Moorish  costume,  but  they 
were  dignitaries.  The  dress  wliich  a  majority  of  the  Jollifs 
wear,  is  a  cool  garb  even  for  Africa,  consisting  of  a  turban, 
amulets,  a  shirt,  and  a  pair  of  sandals.  The  residents  and 
natives  of  St.  Mary's  imitate  tlie  European  style  of  dress, 


GAMBIA  EIVEE. 


69 


Hnd  progress  in  it  as  they  advance  iu  intelligence,  so  that  in 
a  given  case  one  might  estimate  the  degree  of  civilization 
by  the  amount  of  breeches.  The  huts  are  built  of  cane  or 
other  -wicker-work,  are  covered  "n  ith  palm  leaf,  and  gene- 
rally enjoy  the  shade  of  the  palm  or  j^lantaiu.  While  stroll- 
ing in  the  outskirts  of  Bathurst,  -we  ■were  invited  into  a  hut 
of  unusual  neatness,  surroimded  by  a  garden  inclosed  by  a 
bamboo  fence.  We  entered  the  low  door  and  seated  our- 
selves on  stools  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  apartment  for 
our  accommodation,  and  one  of  the  three  female  occupants 
brought  us  some  excellent  palm  wine  in  clean,  fresh-looking 
gourds.  They  seemed  pleased  that  wo  enjoyed  their  wine, 
thanked  us  for  the  visit,  and  told  us  that  they  were  mem- 
bers of  the  mission  chapel.  We  finished  our  day's  walk  by 
visiting  the  graveyard  of  the  whites — a  giassy  hill  over- 
looking the  sea.  Here  the  gold-hunter,  the  explorer,  the 
.slave-hunter,  the  soldier  and  the  missionary,  sleep  side  by 
side,  awaiting  the  day  of  revelation  and  the  rewards  of  their 
toil.  Which  will  be  called  "the  flinatic"  then?  Who 
then  "the  fool?"  Who  will  then  be  pronounced  wise? 
blessed  are  they,  for  they  shall  shine  as  the  stars  in  the 
firmament  for  ever  and  ever  ! 

In  passing  through  the  native  market  next  morning  in 
company  with  Lieut.  M.,  our  attention  was  arrested  by  a 
stand  of  ffingcr  cakes  and  beer,  behind  which  sat  an  old 
black  woman  in  a  neat  calico  dress  and  white  headkerchief, 
Avith  the  unmistakable  tie  and  set  of  the  low  country  house- 
girl  of  the  Southern  States. 

"  This  reminds  me  of  Georgia,"  said  one  of  the  i)arty. 

"  I  come  from  dare  I"  exclaimed  the  old  lady,  rismg  to 
her  feet. 


70  PEKSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


"  From  AV'liere  ?"  asked  Lieut.  M. 

"  From  Sawanna." 

"  What  is  yom-  name  ?" 

"  Catherine." 

"  Where  did  you  live  ?" 

"  At  de  '  Our  House,'  mossa." 

"  Did  you  know  Col.  M.  ?"  said' I,  referring  to  the  father 
of  my  comisauion,  an  old  and  distinguished  citizen  of 
Savannah. 

"  Oh  yes,  mossa!"  said  she,  mentioning  at  the  same  time 
the  names  of  several  of  his  family. 

"  Would  you  know  Julian  now  ?"  said  I,  casting  a  glance 
at  my  friend. 

" Dunno,  mossa;  Julc  be  little  hoy,  den." 

"  Look  at  this  man,"  said  I. 

She  gazed  a  moment,  and  grasping  liis  hand,  exclaimed  : 
"  De  Lord  help  my  poor  soul,  if  this  aint  moss  Jule ! 

Tank  de  Lord  !    Praise  de  Lord  !    I  see  some  my  people 

one  time  more !" 

Then  followed  many  inquiries  after  old  friends,  a  sketch 

of  her  life  since  she  left  Georgia,  and  the  touching 

question : 

"  Can't  you  take  a-me  back  to  my  people  ?" 

He  explained  that  this  was  impossible,  and  emptying  the 
contents  of  his  purse  into  her  hands,  bid  her  good  bye  with 
a  softened  voice. 

"  Tell  my  brodcr  and  sister  of  Andrew  Marshall  church," 
said  she,  "  that  I  been  see  heap  trouble;  but  my  Jesus  been 
wid  nic,  and  I  try  meet  um  obcr  yonder." 

Poor  woman  !  she  lind  been  set  free  at  the  ago  of  forty, 
and  sent  to  Liberia;  but  her  husband  becoming  dissatisfied, 


GAMBIA  KrVTEB.  71 

came  to  this  place,  where  he  died,  leaving  her  helpless  :  but 
the  white  residents  buy  her  cakes,  and  she  makes  a  scanty 
living.  That  evening  the  missionaries  visited  our  ship,  and 
I  enjoyed  sweet  communion  with  them  for  several  hours. 
Noble  men  !  sincere  Christians !  Intelligent  gentlemen ! 
God  spare  them  and  bless  them  in  their  loved  employ  ! 

Next  morning  our  beautiful  shiji  imfolded  her  white 
wings  to  the  wind,  and  as  if  refreshed  by  her  repose  in  the 
quiet  river,  dashed  swiftly  on  toward  the  spray  and  the 
wave.  Civilization  is  advancing  even  in  Africa.  The  roar 
of  cannon,  the  plunging  of  heavy  anchors,  the  rush  of  the 
paddle-wheel,  have  disturbed  the  gambols  of  the  hippopo- 
tami, and  the  river-horse  no  longer  rolls  in  the  lower 
floods  of  the  Gambia.  The  lion,  the  leopard,  and  the  stately 
elephant  are  disappearing  fi-om  its  banks;  the  mimick- 
ing parrot  has  already  carried  the  echoes  of  the  steara- 
Avhistle  into  the  deep  forests  of  the  interior — the  voice  of  a 
bird  telling  the  dawn  of  a  coming  day — and  after  them  shall 
follow,  with  slow  but  steady  tread,  the  heralds  of  religion 
and  the  sons  of  trade.  The  march  of  humanity  is 
"onward!"  Progress  is  inevitable,  and  " knowledge  shall 
be  increased  unto  the  end,"  saith  the  Lord  of  Hosts ! 


CHAPTER  V. 


SIEREA  LEONE. 

Green  Waters  Again — Entrance  of  the  Sierra  Leone — Asliore  on  the  Bar 
— The  Sailor's  Love  for  his  Ship — Sabbath  Morning  in  Sierra  Leone 
— Freetown — Looking  for  a  Methodist  Church — English  Distinctions 
of  Church  and  Chapel — Congregations  of  Natives — Native  Preachers 
— Good  Reading — Disappointment  No.  3 — Wesleyan  Chapel — Metho- 
dist Liturgy — An  Intelligent  Congregation — A  Troublesome  Nose — 
Good  Singing — Christian  Sympathy  superior  to  Prejudice — Mrs.  Stowe 
in  Africa — Eev.  Mr.  Teal  of  the  English  Methodist  Mission — Sierra 
Leone. 

"  Gkeen"  waters,  again !"  said  the  officer,  just  relieved 
from  the  morning  Avatch,  as  he  passed  tlirough  the  ward- 
room to  his  berth.  In  a  moment  we  imagined  that  our  sliip 
pitched  more  lightly,  and  persuading  our  feet  into  a  pair  of 
India-rubber  overalls,  ascended  to  the  quarter-deck  for  a 
mouthful  of  fresh  air.  An  hour  after  we  made  signal  for  a 
pilot,  and  early  in  the  afternoon  another  breecheslcss  Anglo- 
African,  venerable  and  greyheaded,  crawled  over  the  gang- 
way with  a  bundle  of  clothes  imder  his  arm  and  the 
credentials  of  a  pilot  between  his  teeth.  The  mist  and  fog 
began  to  clear  away,  and  soon  the  liigh  mountains  of  Sierra 
Leone  made  their  appearance  above  the  clouds,  like  islands 
floating  in  the  air.  Night  overtook  us  on  the  bar,  and  the 
pilot,  becoming  a  little  confused  in  his  bearings,  and  not 
making  sufficient  allowance  for  our  draught  of  water,  ran  us 
aground  on  a  submerged  sand-bank.  Then  followed  a  scene 
of  excitement,  but  without  confusion.    The  commander, 

72 


SIEKEA  LEONE. 


73 


J.  H.  W.,  who  has  always  been  equal  to  his  emergencies, 
sprung  to  the  horse-block,  all  liands  were  on  deck  in  a 
moment,  orders  were  passed  and  executed  with  the  rapidity 
of  thought,  boats  were  lowered  and  kedges  were  carried 
out  without  delay.  The  tide  Avas  still  rising,  and  after 
fifteen  minutes  of  hard  bumping  to  the  ship,  and  hard  work 
to  her  men,  we  floated  off  into  deep  water  without  the 
slightest  injury.  An  horn*  after,  we  di'opped  anchor  in  the 
smooth  Sierra  Leone,  now  the  broad  mirror  of  a  thousand 
stars.  A  hundred  lights  were  shinmg  from  the  windows 
of  Freetown,  and,  feeling  grateful  that  we  were  once  more 
among  tlie  habitations  of  men,  we  slept  that  night  unrocked 
by  the  tossings  of  the  deep. 

We  occasionally  find  in  our  life-experiences  that  those 
indefinable  and  self-willed  creatures  of  our  being,  called 
affections,  often  cling  with  strong  attachment  to  things 
inanimate ;  nor  is  it  an  abuse  of  language  to  say  that  we 
may  love  such  things  as  we  may  love  persons  or  qualities. 
The  farmer  loves  the  tree  that  he  has  planted  and  trained  ; 
the  soldier  loves  the  blade  that  has  served  him  in  battle ; 
and  the  sailor  loves  the  ship  that  has  borne  him  safely 
through  storms.  We  felt  the  stirrings  of  this  latent  afiec- 
tion  that  night,  as  our  good  ship  struck  heavily  with  each 
fall  of  the  wave  on  that  shallow  bar,  and  the  possibility  of  a 
wreck  glanced  through  our  minds.  From  the  number  of 
our  boats,  the  proximity  of  the  shore  and  the  smoothness 
of  the  sea,  there  was  no  danger  of  loss  of  life,  or  personal 
property,  and  indeed  such  a  Avreck  would  have  terminated 
an  unpleasant  cruise  ;  yet  we  felt  that  we  could  weep  to  see 
the  good  timbers  of  our  faithful  ship  bleaching  on  a  foreign 
Bhore ;  and  the  possibility  that  she  that  had  carried  us  safely 

4 


74 


PEKSONAL  ADVENTDItES  AND  OBSEKYATIONS. 


over  a  thousand  angry  -waves,  and  proudly  waved  our  flag 
among  strangers,  as  if  conscious  herself  of  the  dignity  of 
her  mission,  should  come  to  so  ignoble  an  end,  touched 
every  heart  with  pity  and  strained  every  nerve  to  her 
assistance.  Phrenologists  call  this  love  "  local  attachment," 
and  I  sujjpose  that  its  presence  would  be  indicated  by  a 
"bump" — but  bump,  or  no  bump,  it  exists  in  all  good 
sailors,  and  is  often,  in  degree  and  kind,  similar  to  the  love 
Avhich  they  bear  for  persons  or  principles.  The  sailor  needs 
no  naturalization,  oath  of  fealty,  threatening  or  reward,  to 
attach  him  to  his  ship;  so  long  as  she  bears  him  safely 
through  the  gale,  and  furnishes  him  with  a  hammock  and  a 
home,  he  will  fight  for  her  safety  and  honor,  bear  what  flag 
she  may. 

Next  morning  the  bright  sun  of  an  October  Sabbath 
revealed  the  flourishing  city  of  Freetown ;  resting  on  the 
northern  part  of  the  high  ridge  called  Sierra  Leone — Lion's 
Ridge — and  stretching  along  the  shore  a  mile  and  a  half. 
The  blue  hills  still  mantled  in  the  mists  of  morning,  the 
deep  and  sombre  valleys  now  changing  with  the  silvery 
light  to  more  cheerful  Imes,  the  solemn  forests  and  the 
silent  shore,  the  majestic  river  in  its  noiseless  flow,  the 
waveless  bay,  unruftled  by  an  oar,  the  quiet  city  and  the 
cheerful  fields,  all  seemed  conscious  that  a  holy  day  had 
come — a  day  of  rest,  and  silent  adoration.  The  music  of  the 
church-bells  carried  us  far  over  the  wave,  and  we  mingled 
unseen  in  the  worships  of  our  own  hearths  and  altars ;  but 
another  glance,  and  the  tall  cottonwoods  on  the  beach,  the 
graceful  palms,  waving  in  the  light  winds  on  the  hillside, 
the  clustering  cocoanut  trees,  ■which  shade  the  streets  of  the 
city,  reminded  us  that  wc  were  in  the  climes  of  the  suu ;  in 


SIEKRA  LEOKE. 


75 


Africa,  savage  Africa,  but  Africa  waking  up  witli  a  smile  on 
her  face  to  -welcome  the  blessings  of  the  Christian  Sabbath. 

I  "went  ashore  in  the  first  boat,  and,  landing  at  a  sub- 
stantial stone  pier,  accepted  the  services  of  a  well-dressed 
negro,  who  proposed  to  "  show  Massa  Kapting  anywhere 
for  a  sixpence,"  and  turned  my  steps  to  find  a  Methodist 
church.  A  few  seconds'  walk  brought  ns  to  the  licart  of 
the  city,  where,  in  the  centre  of  a  square,  stands  a  large 
stone  church  in  the  Gothic  style,  Avhich  may  be  considered 
as  the  cathedral  of  the  place. 

"  Dis  de  church  ob  Hingland,"  said  my  guide,  and  with 
the  hope  that  his  sixpence  was  gained,  proposed  that  I 
should  go  to  church  there,  assuring  me  that  they  had 
"  Mighty  good  white  people  preaching,  Kapting,  and  plenty 
prayers !" 

I  was  struck  with  the  size  and  neat  appearance  of  the 
houses,  and  the  cleanliness  of  the  streets.  The  houses  of 
the  government  officials  are  large  and  well  built ;  so  are  the 
various  public  buildings ;  and  beside  these,  there  are  a  great 
number  of  brick,  stone,  and  frame-houses,  occupied  by 
natives,  which  display  taste  and  means.  From  these  down 
to  the  huts  of  wattle-work,  daubed  with  mud  and  thatched 
with  jmlm-grass,  the  same  attention  to  order  and  cleanliness 
was  manifest,  and  that  in  an  extraordinary  degree  for  an 
African  town.  The  suburbs  are  occupied  by  thousands  of 
these  Imts,  attached  to  each  of  whicli  there  is  generally  a 
small  garden,  and  among  them  cocoanut  trees,  affording 
both  fruit  and  shade  in  abundance. 

The  streets  were  thronged  with  well-dressed  negroes,  on 
their  way  to  cluircli,  and  liad  it  not  been  for  the  tropical 
shade  trees,  and  the  occasional  appearance  of  an  untamed. 


76  PEESOXAX.  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


African,  in  shirt  and.  old  hat,  or  a  turbaned  Mandingo,  I 
could  have  fancied  myself  in  the  suburbs  of  a  southern  city. 
After  w  alking  a  quarter  of  a  mile  or  more,  we  stopped  at 
another  church,  where  a  native  preacher,  in  surplice  and 
bands,  was  commencing  the  service  of  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land. He  was  followed  by  a  large  congregation,  who,  with 
prayer-books  in  hands,  read  the  responses  "svith  a  great  deal 
of  imction. 

"This  is  not  the  place,  sir!"  I  said  to  my  guide;  "I 
begin  to  fear  that  you  don't  know  where  the  Methodist 
church  is?" 

"O  yes,  Kapting,  a  little  fiirder!" 

Another  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  a  large,  white  stone  build- 
ing shone  through  the  cocoanuts ;  rural  English,  in  every 
feature ;  such  a  one,  doubtless,  as  casts  its  shadow  on  the 
"  aged  thorn,"  Avhich  Gray  hath  written  into  immortality. 
A  little  nearer  and  I  heard  the  congregation  singing  the 
Gloria  in  Excelsis,  but  as  English  Methodists  have  had  the 
good  sense  to  retain  this  inimitable  lipnn  in  their  "  Sunday 
Service,"  I  thought  it  worth  while  to  look  in ;  but,  behold 
two  black  gentlemen  in  surplices  and  bands ! 

"  Wrong  again,  sir,"  said  I  to  Tobias,  rhj  guide,  who, 
like  myself,  was  in  a  glow  from  hard  walking  and  the  hot 
soxi.    lie  touched  his  hat  very  respectfully,  saying : 

"  Thar  be  plenty  more,  sa,  s'pose  dis  no  suit  Mas  Kap- 
ting." 

"How  far  to  the  next?" 

"  'Bout  half  a  mile,  Kajiting !" 

I  sat  down  on  the  belfry  steps  and  listened  to  the  deacon 
reading  the  first  lesson.  He  read  well,  enunciating  dis- 
tinctly the  final  syllable  of  preterits  ending  in  "ed;"  a 


SrEEEA  LEONE. 


77 


practice  whicli  English  scholars  observe  everywhere,  but  in 
some  of  the  southern  and  western  States,  and  -which  raises 
the  dignity  of  Scripture  language  above  the  vulgar  abbrevi- 
ations of  the  common  colloquial.  But  the  poor  fellow  made 
terrible  work  w"ith  his  "  li's  " ;  and  had  that  defect  in  the 
pronounciation  of  "r"  like  a  broad — which  is  peculiar  to 
the  affected  Englishman  and  the  American  snob.  He  was 
English  in  his  religion,  his  education,  with  its  excellences 
and  defects,  and  in  everything  else  but  color.  The  congre- 
gation, nurabei'ing  near  two  hundred,  were  neatly  dressed 
in  European  style,  except  a  few  Sabbath-school  children, 
and  were  attentive  and  devotional. 

"  Now,"  said  I  to  Tobias,  you  have  deceived  me  thrice, 
you  may  go  about  yom-  business,  and  I'U  hold  on  to  the 
sixpence." 

"  If  you  please,  Massa  Kapting,  I  take  you  to  one  more 
church." 

"  How  far  ?" 

"'Bout  mile:  other  side  town." 

"Is  that  the  churcli  of  the  Methodist  mission?" 

"  Tell  you  de  trufe,  Kapting,  I  duuno  what  church  dad  be," 

"I  thougllf  as  mucli,"  said  I. 

"Perhaj)s  the  Kapting  want  to  see  some  dc  chapels?" 

"  Ah,  boy,  that  gives  me  a  little  light.  You  Englishmen  " 
— Tobias  straightens  up — "call  nothing  church  but  the 
English  Church  ?" 

"  Jc3  so,  Kapting ;  de  oder  is  cliapels," 

"Very  good;  now,  I  want  to  go  to  tlie  chapel  of  the 
Methodist  mission  :  do  you  know  where  that  is  ?" 

Ho  scratched  his  head  a  moment,  and  brought  out  a  very 
reluctant  "  No,  sa." 


78 


PEESONAIi  ADVENTUBES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


"  What  chapels  do  you  know  ?" 

"  Plenty ;  I  knows  two  Lady  Hunthigdons,  one  African ; 
there  used  to  be  Baptis,  but  he  shut  iip  now,  and  I  knows 
heap  o'  Weslcyans." 

"  Ah,  Tobias,  now  you  strike  me !  Excuse  my  stupidity ! 
that's  the  one  I  want — take  me  to  the  principal  Wesleyan 
chaijcl." 

We  had  a  very  long  walk,  the  sun  was  hot,  and,  as  usual 
when  I  needed  one,  I  had  no  umbrella.  We  arrived  at  the 
chapel — a  large  building  of  stone,  under  the  same  roof  as 
the  mission  house — -just  in  time  to  hear  the  concluding 
prayers  of  the  morning  service.  It  may  be  necessary  hero 
to  inform  the  reader  that  among  all  Methodists,  except 
those  of  the  United  States,  the  form  of  prayer  as  abridged 
by  John  Wesley  from  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer  of  the 
English  Episcopal  Church,  is  used  every  Sunday  morning 
befoi'c  preaching.  Dr.  Gumming,  I  think  it  is  who  remarks 
that  "  no  people  can  use  the  service  like  the  Methodists." 
The  author  would  add,  and  none  others  stand  so  much  in 
need  of  it,  as  some  compensation  for  the  incohcrcncies  and 
oversights,  at  times,  insejjarable  from  extemi^orary  prayers. 

In  nothing  is  the  sound  sense  and  moderation  of  Wesley 
so  marked  as  in  this,  that  while  endeavoring  to  reform  a 
system  Avhoso  life  was  almost  extinct,  and  where  mere  form 
had  taken  the  jjlacc  of  spirituality  and  jjower,  lie  did  not 
eschew  all  form,  and  Avhile  endeavoring  to  cultivate  the  gift 
and  exercise  of  extemporaneous  prayer,  for  private  and 
public  worship,  he  still  found  place,  and  saw  the  necessity 
for  a  liturgy.  Tliere  is  no  hiding  the  fact  from  those  who 
are  acquainted  witli  "  Wesleyan  Methodism,"  that  Avhere, 
in  this  and  other  respects,  Mr.  Wesley  is  closely  followed, 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


79 


a  type  of  Methodistic  piety  develops,  for  which  in  American 
Metliodisra  (U.  S.)  there  is  no  counterpart.  We  shall  see 
this  exemplified,  to  some  extent,  in  the  mission  fields  of 
Africa. 

The  preacher  officiating  was  a,  black  man,  dressed  in 
black  clothes,  relieved  by  a  necktie  of  spotless  white.  He 
read  as  only  spiritually-minded  men  can  read,  and  his  re- 
spectable looking  audience  responded  as  those  only  can  re- 
spond who  understand  and  feel  what  they  say.  A  polite 
sexton,  out  of  respect  to  my  brass  buttons,  I  suppose,  led 
me  to  the  farthest  seat  in  the  amen  corner.  It  was  cush- 
ioned comfortably,  and  suiDplied  with  books — a  Bible,  a 
prayer  book,  called  "  Sunday-Service  of  the  Methodists," 
and  a  hymn  book.  A  venerable  black  gentleman,  in  the 
uniform  of  an  English  army  oflicer,  was  the  only  occupant 
of  the  seat  besides  myself,  and  after  my  long  and  hot  walk, 
I  found  the  ample  and  soft  cushion  a  pleasant  resting  place. 
There  was  but  one  element  of  discomfort :  my  unfortunate 
olfactories  would  keep  reminding  mo  that  there  were  certain 
odoriferous  particles  afloat  in  the  atmospliere  not  exactly 
to  their  liking.  But  this  was  not  as  bad  as  it  might  have 
been,  for  I  had  the  advantage  of  an  open  window ;  yet  I 
could  not  help  thinking  sometimes  that  there  was  a  very 
large  flock  of  goats  from  Mount  Gilead,  or  some  other  fra- 
grant place,  out  in  the  garden  ;  or  a  great  many  swamiD- 
rabbits  under  the  liouse,  with,  perhai^s,  a  muskrat  or  two. 
The  Africans  are  fond  of  perfumes ! 

The  preacher  gave  out  a  hymn  in  short  measure,  which 
was  sung  to  Cranbrook  ;  the  music  was  led  by  the  teachers 
and  scholars  of  the  Sabbatli-school,  who  occujjied  the  front 
seats.   They  sung  well.  In  attaining  a  good  knowledge  of 


80 


PERSONAL  ADTENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  science,  they  had  not  lost  tlio  spirit ;  and  to  the  spivit 
of  music  "was  added  the  soul  of  pi-aj-er.  The  congregation 
generally  followed ;  they  stood  while  they  sung,  although 
this  was  the  second  or  tbird  singing,  and  I  doubt  not  but 
the  sacrifice  w-as  accepted  before  the  Throne. 

My  sjiirit  iilso  was  stirred  witb  gratitude  and  love.  I  had 
been  long  thirsting  for  the  assembly,  of  the  saints,  and  just 
such  praise  as  this.  I  felt  that  I  was  among  God's  peoj^le, 
however  ignorant  or  obscure  they  may  have  been,  and  I 
felt  that  whatever  else  divided  us,  we  were  one  in  depravity 
and  darkness,  one  in  dependence  and  frailty,  one  in  the  im- 
mortal hopes  of  the  eternal  redemption  that  is  in  Jesus 
Christ.  Deep  in  my  own  consciousness  I  found  a  sjanj^athy 
that  claimed  brothei-hood  with  those  who  expressed  their 
wants  and  hopes  in  the  songs  and  j^rayers  that  exi:)ressed 
mine — a  sympathy  that  is  superior  to  questions  of  original 
unity  or  diversity  of  races,  intellectual  comparisons,  or  social 
caste.  Memory,  too,  Avas  busy.  The  singing  carried  me 
back  to  Andrew  Chapel,  Savannah,  to  camp  grounds  in 
Middle  Georgia,  where  "  the  dai'keys"  make  night  melodious 
with  their  simple  songs  and  inimitable  music ;  and  Avith 
camp-meetings  came  the  friends  and  labors,  and  successes 
and  sorrows,  of  other  days;  the  spiritual  and  sympathetic 
in  me  were  aroused  in  \mison,  and  the  better  part  of  my 
nature  was  soon  thousands  of  miles  away,  revelling  some- 
where between  Griffin,  Georgia,  and  the  third  heavens. 
When  I  came  to  myself,  I  alone  was  standing,  the  pi'cachcr 
was  taking  his  text,  my  handkerchief  was  at  my  eyeSj  and 
my  spectacles  were  dim  witli  moisture.  I  felt  ashamed  of 
myself. 

The  text  was, "  My  people  do  not  consider,"  of  which  the 


SIEEEA  LEOKE. 


81 


preacher  made  good  use,  as  illustrating  bis  topic,  which  was 
The  Sin  of  Ingratitude,  His  remarks  Avere  plain,  in  good 
grammar  and  excellent  sense.  I  felt  especially  interested 
in  the  latter  portion  of  his  discourse,  where  he  touchingly 
and  beautifully  reminded  his  hearers  of  the  darkness  and 
death  in  which  the  missionaries  found  him  and  them.  He 
compared  their  condition,  temporally  and  spiritually,  with 
that  of  their  fathers,  with  that  of  their  brethren  still  in  bar- 
barism, and  finally  with  that  of  their  race  in  America, 
"where  they  live  on  roots,  and  do  the  work  of  brute 
beasts."  "Ah,  stupid !"  said  I  to  myself,  "  why  go  beyond 
your  depth,  and  spoil  all  ?"  I  thought  that  if  it  were  every 
way  convenient,  I  should  have  been  glad  of  the  privilege 
of  enlightening  both  preacher  and  people  on  this  point. 
After  service,  I  introduced  myself,  as  a  southern  Methodist, 
to  the  preacher,  and  enjoyed  half  aii  hour's  chat  with  him 
at  the  mission  house,  where  I  intimated  that  his  description 
of  the  condition  of  the  colored  race  in  the  United  States 
was  new  to  me.  Imagine  my  surprise  when  the  gentleman 
quoted  from  the  "  Key  to  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,"  and  asked 
me  if  I  did  not  admire  Mrs.  Stowe.  I  rei^lied  that  "  as  a 
writer,  I  admired  her ;  and  that  the  most  ardent  admirers 
of  her  intellect  were  Southern  men." 
"How  is  that,  sir?" 

"  Why,  out  of  the  South  she  is  complimented  in  that  she 
possesses  an  imagination  which  can  form  a  beautiful  and 
attractive  story  out  of  a  few  plain  characters,  acts  of  cruelty 
and  pictures  of  suiTering.  In  the  South,  we  know  that  not 
only  did  her  imagination  supply  the  dressing  and  paint,  but 
even  the  characters  and  the  so  called  '  facts,'  and  that, 
therefore,  as  a  creative  genius,  which  is  the  highest  order 

4* 


82         PEESOXAL  ADVENTCBES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 


of  genius,  vre  consider  her  gigantic — but  alas !  for  her 
veracity." 

Thus  is  abolitionism  doing  its  accursed  work ;  spreading, 
even  in  Africa,  the  venom  of  falsehood,  and  engendering 
strife. 

The  Rev.  Jlr.  Teal  arrived  soon  after  service.  He  is,  j?ro 
tem2)ore,  superintendent  of  the  missions  here ;  a  sturdy, 
strong-minded  Englishman,  and  a  devoted  missionary.  ■  I 
dined  with  him,  and  in  the  evening  visited  the  Sabbath- 
school  attached  to  the  premises,  and  addressed  the  teachers 
and  children.  A  southern  Methodist  preacher  was  a  crea- 
ture Mr.  Teal  had  never  seen  before,  and  for  that  reason 
took  great  interest  in  learning  my  opinions  on  the  "  vexed 
question "  Avhich  divided  the  American  church,  and  as  he 
heard,  perceived  that  the  question  is  a  Httle  more  knotty 
than  one-sided  readers  generally  suppose.  I  spent  a  delight- 
ful evening  in  his  society.  I  found  him  a  gentleman  and  a 
brother ;  and  I  returned  aboard  at  sunset,  wearied  and 
profited  by  the  exercises  of  the  day. 

The  extensive  and  fertile  tract  called  Sierra  Leone  was 
purchased  from  the  natives  by  the  English  government,  and 
here,  in  1787,  they  established  a  colony.  For  moi"e  than  a 
century  previous  to  this.  Sierra  Leone  had  been  an  import- 
ant trading  station,  where  the  English  maintained  a  fort 
for  the  protection  of  their  traders,  and  whence  they  ex- 
ported thousands  of  slaves  annually.  The  original  settlers 
of  the  colony  were  blacks,  stolen  from  the  Americans  during 
the  War  of  Independence.  To  these,  in  1792,  M  ere  added 
a  few  hundred  free  negroes  from  Nova  Scotia.  Many  of 
these  poor  creatures  died  in  the  acclimating  fever,  but  their 
places  were  supplied  by  thousands  of  Africans  taken  from 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


83 


slave-ships  captured  by  English  men-of-war ;  for  at  this  time 
the  English  had  become  almost  as  zealous  in  capturing 
slavers  as  they  had  previously  been  in  supplying  them.  The 
natives  of  the  colony  are,  for  the  most  part,  children  of  re- 
captured slaves ;  and  this  population  is  annually  increased 
by  the  cargoes  of  the  slave  vessels  which  the  Bj^tish  cruisers 
continue  to  capture  along  the  "Western  Coast. 

How  this  colony  has  prospered,  what  is  the  present  state 
of  its  laws,  commerce  and  religion,  we  shall  sec  in  our  next 
chapter.  In  thinking  over  tlie  scenes  of  the  day,  as  I  sat 
in  my  room  that  night,  I  could  hardly  realize  that  I  was  in 
Africa.  Yet,  this  is  Africa ;  Africa  under  the  control  of  the 
Britiiih  mind,  and  the  influence  of  the  Christian  religion. 
Through  these,  behold  what  hath  God  wrought ! 


CHAPTER  VI. 


SIEEEA   LEOXE — CONTIIOJED. 

The  Author  invites  himself  to  Breakfast — A  Morning  Walls — Geology  of 
the  District — Guessing — riiysiognomy  and  Civilization — Advice  to  the 
Reader — Birds — A  World  Alive — Village  of  AVilberforce — Rev.  Mr. 
Dillon — Evidences  of  Civilization — School  and  Scholars— Character  of 
the  African — Population  and  Classification  of  Inhabitants — Languages, 
etc.  \ 

Befoee  leaving  Mr.  Tcale,  on  Sunday  evening,  lis  fur- 
nished me  "with  a  note  of  introduction  to  his  co-laborer,  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Dillon,  who  was  then  residing  at  the  village  of 
Wilberforce,  two  miles  from  Freetown,  in  charge  of  the  mis- 
sions and  schools  at  that  place.  This  note  I  sent  by  a  native 
to  Mr.  Dillon,  that  evening,  with  another  informing  him  that 
I  would  do  myself  the  pleasure  of  breakfasting  with  him 
next  morning. 

The  grey  dawn  found  me  at  the  landing,  and  sunrise  over- 
took me  on  tlio  broad  and  smooth  turnpike  road  lying  be- 
tAveen  Freetown  and  Wilberforce.  Bright  mornings  are  ex- 
hilarating to  the  spirits,  and  excite  an  appreciation  of  the 
beautiful  wherever  we  may  be  ;  but  here,  where  nature  reigns 
in  wildest  majesty,  the  ideas  Avhich  the  scenery  excite;?  are 
tliose  of  the  sublime  rather  than  the  beautiful.  The  high 
mountains  still  gathered  round  them  the  clouds  of  night ; 
the  deep  forest,  where  the  lion  and  leopard  prowl,  stretched 
away  till  it  seemed  lost  in  the  sk}',  presenting  many  shades 
of  red  light  and  struggling  darkness;  the  broad  river,  r()ll- 

84 


SIEEEA  LEOI^E, 


85 


ing  in  solemn  grandeur  from  the  mysterious  dejjtlis  of  the 
imknown  wilds  of  the  interior,  reflected  the  warm  hues  of 
the  morning  sun  like  a  sea  of  molten  brass  ;  and  the  recol 
lection  that  I  was  gazing  on  the  abodes  of  wild  beasts,  poi 
sonous  reptiles,  and  savage  man,  added  the  charm  of  wild 
ness  to  the  sublime  picture. 

The  gay  plumage  and  unmusical  notes  of  the  numerous 
wild  birds,  the  countless  forms  of  insect  and  animal  life,  the 
endless  variety  of  luxuriant  weeds,  and  flowers,  and  trees, 
serve  here  to  remind  the  traA'cller,  unstudied  in  nature's 
tropical  aspects,  that  he  is  a  stranger  and  in  a  strange  land. 
Yet  not  entirely  a  stranger,  for  though  the  fauna  and  flora 
be  not  those  of  his  own  soil  and  sun,  in  the  igneous,  and 
stratified  fonnations,  and  ferruginous  clays,  which  form  the 
rock  and  surface  of  this  district,  he  may  find  combinations 
which  in  their  elements,  relative  positions  and  arrangements 
are  the  same,  and  obey  the  same  laws,  as  the  surface  of  the 
fields  and  quarries  of  his  own  home :  so  that  in  mother  earth 
at  least  he  is  an  old  acquaintance.  The  geological  efiects  of 
climate  are  comparatively  trifling,  and,  tITercforc,  tlie  prac- 
tical geologist  may  be  as  much  at  home,  and  apply  his  prin- 
ciples Avith  equal  confidence  in  the  uniformity  of  the  results, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Niger  or  Nile,  as  on  the  banks  of  the 
Potomac  or  Mississippi. 

T  met  a  great  many  natives  on  their  way  to  market,  car- 
rying fruits,  poultry,  and  baked  fish.  Fish,  when  baked, 
will  keep  for  a  long  time,  even  in  this  climate,  and  they  form 
here  an  important  article  of  trade  among  tlie  negroes. 
Sitting  down  to  rest  under  the  shade  of  a  palm  tree,  I 
amused  myself  in  asking  questions  of  those  who  passed  along 
the  road,  and  in  guessing,  from  the  expression  of  the  face,  as 


86         PEESONAI,  AJJVKNTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

to  whether  they  were  Mahometans,  Christians  or  heathens. 
The  Mahometan  is  unmistakable ;  conscious  of  his  superiority 
over  his  savage  brethren,  he  is  erect,  dignified  and  sullen. 
The  Christian,  by  whom  I  mean  him  who  has  re- 
ceived more  or  less  education,  and  has  renounced  gris- 
grisism,  presents  a  cast  of  face  quite  familiar  to  the 
Southerner  ;  good-natured,  more  or  less  intelligent,  with  a 
blending  of  self-consequence.  The  poor  heathen  comes 
along,  "  nigger  all  over ;"  his  face  may  express  a  good  or 
bad  temper ;  and  a  greater  or  less  degree  of  sensuality,  but, 
generally,  it  is  unlit  by  intelligence,  and,  when  unexcited,  is 
unmeaning  in  expression.  Of  course  the  reader  will  not 
suj)pose  that  all  the  Mahometans  look  proud,  aU  the  Chris- 
tianized amiable  and  intelligent,  or  all  the  untaught,  stupid 
and  brutish.  We  present  these  merely  as  rej^resentative 
men,  or  types  of  the  three  classes ;  and  with  these  ideas  in 
mind,  we  went  to  guessing,  and  in  nineteen  guesses  made 
but  one  mistake! — that  of  taking  akrooman  for  a  Christian 
— and  he  had  been  for  three  years  in  contact  with  civilized 
men  in  the  English  service.  He  must  be  blind  indeed  who, 
in  going  from  the  southern  States  to  the  West  Coast  of 
Africa,  or,  in  comparing  the  Christianized  with  the  heathen 
African,  will  not  be  persuaded  that  civilization  shows  its  effects 
in  the  increased  intelligence  and  beauty  of  the  human  face. 

If  the  reader  is  now  impatient  for  his  breakfast,  let  us  re- 
mind him  that  Gordon  Cumming's  "  wait-a-bit  thorns  "  are 
very  abundant  in  Sierra  Leone,  and  that  we  are  now  taking 
a  by-i^ath  through  "  the  bush ;"  and  if  he  has  not  nine  hun- 
dred lives  to  spare,  and  cannot  afford  to  be  harrowed  to 
death  with  thorns  two  or  three  times  a  day,  as  was  that  gen- 
tleman, he  had  better  be  patient. 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


87 


ThQ  birds  along  our  path  Avere  very,  numerous.  My  guide, 
an  intelligent  boy  of  the  church  mission  school,  "whom  I 
l^icked  up  on  the  road,  called  my  attention  to  a  little  fellow 
about  the  size  of  a  wren,  m  a  jet  black  plumage,  -n  hich  he 
exchanged  in  the  rainy  season  for  one  of  pure  white.  In  a 
tree,  not  far  off,  a  number  of  parraquets,  in  brilliant  green 
and  red,  and  not  larger  than  a  lark,  which  he  called  love 
birds,  wei-e  keeping  up  a  very  unmusical  conversation, 
tumbling,  swinging,  and  pirouetting  the  while,  like  a  set  of 
young  momitebanks  at  rehearsal.  In  an  old  field  close  by,  a 
where  a  number  of  cows  were  grazing,  a  flock  of  long-legged 
white  birds,  resembling  pigeons,  seemed  to  be  amusing  them- 
selves in  hopping  from  the  ground  to  the  backs  of  the  qattle, 
.with  whom  they  seemed  on  very  familiar  terms.  My  guide 
said  they  v,  ere  gathering  insects.  In  the  palm  trees  over- 
head, palm-birds,  of  bright  yellow  and  black  plumage,  Avere 
chattering  around  their  ingeniously-wrought  nests,  which 
swung  from  the  branches.  Half  a  doiicn  varieties  of  ants 
were  pursuing  their  labors  at  our  feet.  Insects  and  lizards 
sported  in  the  rank  grass  around,  and  the  earth,  the  woods, 
the  air,  in  every  direction,  stirred  ■with  animal  life. 

We  reached  the  village  and  the  mission-house  where  we 
found  Mr.  Dillon  awaiting  our  arrival,  Avith  a  cheorful  and 
hearty  greeting;  and  when  I  say  that  he  is  a  Christian,  a 
man  of  taste  and  letters,  and  a  Welshman,  what  fi^ll^r 
guaranty  can  be  asked  for  a  warm  welcome,  a  good  break- 
fast, and  a  pleasant  day  ?  The  early  part  of  the  forenoon 
was  quite  close  and  sultry,  but  at  ten  o'clock  a  cool  breeze 
from  the  sea  rustled  among  the  palm  leaves  near  the  cottage, 
and,  provided  with  umbrellas,  we  sallied  forth  to  visit  the 
mission  school,  and  the  summer  residence  of  an  English 


88         PERSOKAX,  ADVEjSTTtJEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


officer  of  the  cololrJ^  In  going  through  tlie  village  Ave 
passed  several  very  neat  cottages,  surrounded  by  pawpaw, 
banana,  and  palm  trees,  and  furnished  with  well  and  taste- 
fully cultivated  gardens,  which  contained  fine  heads  of  cab- 
bage, and  culinary  vegetables  familiar  to  American  eyes. 
Chickens,  goats  and  pigs  strolled  about  the  streets,  and 
everything  gave  evidence  of  the  advance  of  civilization. 
The  occupants  of  these  houses  are  generally  persons  who 
have  grown  up  in  the  colony,  and  after  receivhig  the  rudi- 
ments of  an  English  education,  pursue  some  trade  or  mecha- 
nical art.  Most  of  them  belong  to  some  church,  and  all 
seem  aspiring  after  a  higher  civilization  and  a  more  liberal 
education  for  themselves  and  their  children. 

In  what  striking  contrast  stands  beside  these,  the  squalid, 
smoky,  and  filthy  mud  hut  of  the  recently  arrived  and  re- 
captured slave,  or  the  unyielding  savage.  What  an  mian- 
swerable  argument,  and  constant  apj^eal  do  these  natives 
present  to  their  savage  brethren,  in  the  comfortable  appear- 
ance of  their  homes  and  persons,  their  superior  inteUigencc, 
and  the  respect  which  they  enjoy  as  members  of  the  civi[ 
community. 

In  the  school  we  found  about  fifty  scholars,  between  the 
ages  of  five  and  fifteen,  under  the  superintendence  of  a 
colored  teacher,  himself  a  graduate  of  the  Methodist  mission 
school,  and  a  good  English  scholar,  assisted  by  his  wife,  a 
sensible  looking  woman.  When  I  was  introduced  the  scho- 
lars rose  to  their  feet,  exclaiming  "  Good  morning,  sir,"  A 
few  of  the  better  scholars,  boys  and  girls,  M'cre  called  to  the 
front  seats,  where  the  teacher  examined  them  in  arithmetic, 
and  at  the  request  of  IMr.  Dillon  I  gave  them  a  few  ques- 
tions in  geography,  grammar,  and  sacred  history.  They 


SIERRA  LEOXE. 


89 


acquitted  themselves  \rell,  and  showed  that  they  not  only 
memorized  rules  but  understood  their  application. 

After  attaining  the  age  of  fifteen,  and  learning  the  rudi- 
ments of  an  English  education,  they  are  generally  appren- 
ticed to  some  trade  in  the  colony.  Here,  as  in  some  other 
communities,  many  of  the  natives  are  too  poor  to  support 
their  children  at  school,  although  the  schooling  costs  them 
nothing,  and  the  children  arc  sent  forth  at  an  early  age  to 
pick  up  a  living  as  best  they  can  ;  these,  contracting  habits 
of  idleness,  grow  up  useless  members  of  society. 

Those  who  are  of  good  character,  studious  habits,  and  in- 
telligence, arc  transferred  to  the  high-school,  where  they 
are  supported  by  the  Church,  and  prepared  for  teaching  or 
the  ministry.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  here,  as  every- 
where else  among  the  missions  of  civilization  and  religion 
on  the  coast,  so  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  soil,  and  that  so  few  of  these  children  are 
brought  up  to  pursue  agriculture  as  a  means  of  living. 

It  is  sometimes  the  case  that  when  these  young  people, 
4ifter  receiving  some  education,  and  some  knowledge  of  a 
trade  or  art,  are  thrown  upon  their  own  resources,  and 
cannot  find  constant  employment  in  their  proper  calling, 
they  become  discouraged,  and,  yielding  to  those  temjita- 
tions  to  idleness,  so  powerful  over  the  African  tempera- 
ment, presented  by  a  warm  climate,  where  enough  to 
sustain'  life  may  be  gathered  with  little  labor,  and  public 
oi»inion  tolerates  a  shirt  and  hat  as  full  dress,  they  relapse 
into  a  state  of  comparative  heathenism. 

Yet,  the  fact  stands  confessed  that  these  are  exceptional 
cases.  A  very  large  majority  of  those  who  had  been 
trained   at  the  schools,  brought  into  the  churches,  and 


00         PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  0BSEKVATI0N8. 


taught  that  idleness  is  sinful  and  labor  virtuous,  continue 
attached  to  the  ideas  and  pursue  the  practices  of  civilized 
life.  The  children  of  such  are  growing  up  with  wants  and 
tastes,  some  of  them  not  very  commendable,  which  the 
civilized  estate  alone  can  supply.  They  form  a  taste  for 
the  dress,  the  meats  and  drinks,  the  luxuries,  the  manners, 
of  white  men,  they  aspire  heartily  after  position  in  society, 
and  to  gratify  themselves,  they  must  labor.  These  "wants, 
to  those  brought  up  in  them,  are  in  a  sense  natural,  and, 
therefore,  to  relapse  into  barbarism  and  forego  all  these 
would  be  to  them  unnatural. 

True,  the  African  is  "  peculiarly  lazy,"  whether  bond  or 
free,  that  is,  as  compared  with  the  Gaul,  the  Celt  or  the 
Anglo-Saxon,  and  from  this  fact  it  is  predicted  that  he  will 
not  retain  even  a  low  degree  of  civilization  Avhcn  left  to 
himself.  Those  Avho  have  studied  the  character  '  of  the 
negro,  Avhether  at  their  own  firesides  in  the  Southern 
States,  or  in  the  woods  of  Africa,  are  aware  that  nature, 
just  in  her  compensations,  has  given  him  counterbalancing 
qualities.  Who  has  not  laughed  at  the  assumed  dignity  of 
Uncle  Ned,  who  carries  his  master's  keys,  or  the  iniitative- 
uess  of  Jim,  the  house-boy,  in  putting  on  his  master's  airs  ? 
These  qualities  then,  w^hich  in  the  African  arc  peculiarly 
developed,  pride  or  personal  importance  and  imitation, 
will  counterbalance  his  ^^ec?<^/a?'  indolence  \,  and  while  he 
has  a  superior  being  to  imitate,  or  a  position  of  imjiortance 
open  to  his  aspirations,  and  these  I  presume  ho  always  will 
have,  he  will  be  as  likely  to  labor  as  most  other  men. 
The  principle  will  ajiply  to  the  civilized  African  in  his  civil 
as  well  as  in  his  social  character  and  relations.  In  Sierra 
Leone  there  is  rapidly  growing  up  in  the  public  mind  a 


A 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


91 


respect  for  those  who  live  and  dress  in  the  European 
styles,  and  an  abhorrence  of  all  things  heathenish.  Offices 
in  the  civil  and  military  departments  of  the  government 
are  open  to  educated  natives.  Education  is  creating  wants 
■which  civilization  alone  can  supply ;  Christianity  is  enhghten- 
ing  and  elevating,  and  making  the  darkness  of  heathenism 
visible  and  hideous.  With  these  influences  directed  by 
British  minds,  it  would  seem  that  civilization  has  a  perma- 
nent foothold  in  western  Africa. 

I  must  not  forget  my  friend,  Mr.  Dillon,  with  whom,  in 
walking  and  talking,  and  eating  and  drinking,  I  spent  a 
day  which  surpassed  in  realization  the  delightful  anticipa- 
tions of  the  morning.  The  jircseut  poi^ulation  of  Sierra 
Leone  is  47,000,  of  wliom  less  than  20,000  are  females. 
This  inequality  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  a  majority  of 
the  recaptured  slaves  have  been  males;  they  being  more 
valuable  in  the  trade. 

The  tOATOS  of  the  Colony  are  Freetown,  Kissey,  Water- 
loo, Wilberforce  and  Kent.  The  population  of  Freetown  is 
10,022.  This  population  embraces  three  distinct  classes, 
who,  in  point  of  civilization  and  numbers,  rank  as  follows : 
First,  the  natives  of  the  colony,  who  are  English  subjects,  to 
whom  may  be  added  the  freed  slaves  who  have  resided  a 
dozen  years  in  tlie  colony.  These  supply  the  schools  and 
churches  with  members,  and  may  bo  called,  in  the  general 
sense  of  tlie  term,  the  Christian  community.  The  English, 
with  the  peculiar  accent  of  our  low  countries  and  a  dash  of 
cockney,  is  their  language.  I  found  great  difficulty  in 
uiidcrstanduig  those  who  were  born  on  other  parts  of  the 
coast,  even  when  they  had  resided  in  the  colony,  and  had 
been  speaking  English  ten  or  fifteen  years ;  but  they  under- 


92         PERSONAL  ADVENTUBES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


stood  me  distinctly,  even  in  lecturing.  This  is  the  most 
numerous  class.  Secondly,  the  residents  and  natives  of  the 
colony  who  belong  to  surrounding  tribes.  Among  these, 
the  most  important  are  the  families  of  the  Mandingo  tribe, 
who  reside  in  Freetown,  and  those  of  the  Pulah  tribe 
called,  by  Mr.  Bowen,  Palhos.  They  are  Mahometans, 
and  are  not  subjects  of  the  English  Crown.  They  are 
allowed  to  reside  in  quarters  appropriated  to  them,  in 
consideration  of  which  they  pay  certain  taxes.  Thirdly, 
the  liberated  Africans  avIio  have  been  brought  to  the 
colony  in  the  course  of  the  past  ten  years.  Many  of  these 
retain  their  heathenish  habits  and  ideas,  yet  the  younger 
and  more  intelligent  of  them  learn  to  labor  readily,  and 
some  of  them  become  members  of  Sabbath-schools  and  the 
Church.  The  colonists  represent  more  than  two  Inmdred 
tribes ;  indeed,  I  suppose  that  there  is  scarcely  a  tribe  on 
the  West  Coast,  or  a  hundred  miles  from  it,  which  has  not 
a  representative  licre  ;  and  liere,  though  English  is  the 
language  of  the  colony,  and  understood  by  a  majority  of 
the  residents,  one  hundred  African  languages  arc  spoken. 
A  vocabulary  has  been  compiled  and  published,  lately,  con- 
taining three  thousand  words,  in  one  hundred  dialects. 

How  many  interesting  biograjjliics  might  be  gathered 
here,  full  of  wildest  adventure  in  states  of  life  with  which 
civilized  men  have  no  acquaintance !  Many  of  these  people 
before  entering  the  slave-ship  had  never  seen  the  face  of 
a  white  man.  Taken  as  captives,  in  the  wars  which  are 
constantly  occurring  between  the  tribes  of  the  interior,  or 
stolen  from  their  huts  at  night,  or  sold  by  their  own  parents 
or  masters,  they  were  hurried  to  the  coast  and  exchanged 
for  a  trilling  sum  of  money,  or  European  clothes  and  guns. 


SIEKEA  LEONE. 


93 


Then  came  the  fetters  and  hand-cufis,  and  the  close  quarters 
of  the  "  white  man  cunnoo,"  wliere  they  lay  side  and  side 
in  the  apartments  or  decks  but  three  feet  high,  with  but 
little  air,  and  no  light.  Then  came  sea-sickness,  and  then 
ship  fever,  thinning  out  their  thronged  ranks.  Then  the 
man-of-war  heaves  in  sight,  and  they  hear  cannons  and 
see  the  excitement  of  their  keepers ;  they  are  overtaken ; 
white  men  who  put  on  their  fetters  knock  them  off,  transfer 
them  to  another  vessel,  and  land  them  in  a  strange  country, 
though  it  be  Africa.  How  they  wonder  at  all  this ;  and 
fl  ithout  interpreters  to  explain,  they  often  remain  in  the 
colony  for  years  before  they  understand  it. 

An  intelligent  Fantee,  who  had  been  in  tlic  colony  a 
•dozen  years  or  so,  gave  me,  in  substance,  this  account 
of  himself : 

"  Our  people  de  m.akc  war  ;  I  be  stout  boy ;  I  go  make 
war.  We  go  six  day  in  the  country ;  we  see  Avar  people 
come  ;  we  fight ;  heap  our  people  be  kill.  Night  come,  we 
sleep  de  woods.  In  de  night  war  people  come ;  ho  make 
no  noise ;  he  take  we  knife  an'  wo  gun ;  den  some  we 
people  see  him  an'  make  noise.  Me  an'  twenty  my  people 
be  tie  by  the  neck,  an'  he  drag  um  to  de  bush,  and  we  see 
wo  people  no  more.  De  trade  man  carry  me  to  de  barra- 
coon  (a  house  where  slaves  are  kept)  a'  sell  to  white  man 
in  ship;  heap  we  people  be  dare— heap  die.  Man-war 
ship  come ;  take  we  people  dis  coimtry.  lie  say,  dis  be 
your  country  (Sierra  Leone) ;  I  say,  no,  dis  no  be  hke  a  my 
country;  dis  people  no  de  talk  my  people  plaver.  I  no 
like  um;  I  want  sec  niy  people  long  time.  Missionary  tell 
me,  go  scliool,  go  chapel  ;  I  go  ;  some  my  people  bo  dare ; 
he  tell  me  'bout  God  an'  Jesus.    I  like  hear  um.  Mis- 


94:         PEKSOXAL  ADVESmiRES  A>T)  OBSERVATIONS. 


sionaiy  teach  me  heap.  Me  pray  long  time  ;  den  Jesus 
come  ;  I  tink  I  see  cle  Lord.  Me  feel  so  good.  I  say  dis 
coimtry  be  betta  an  my  country.  Tank  de  Lord  I  come 
see  dis  peoi^le." 

"Don't  you  want  to  go  back  to  your  country  now," 
said  I. 

"  Please  de  Lord,  I  like  a  tell  a  me  people  'bout  dis  ear 
'ligion  an'  de  blessed  Jesus ;  but  I  no  kin  go ;  I  pray  de 
Lord  he  send  dem  missionary  people  for  tell  my  people 
how  for  do." 

Similar  to  this  is  the  experience  of  many  of  those  who 
have  become  religious,  and  by  industiy  make  a  comfortable 
living ;  but  many  others  there  are  upon  whom  contact 
with  civilization  has  had  no  more  effect  than  it  has  upon 
monkeys.  They  learn  a  few  of  the  tricks  or  vices  of 
civilized  men,  and,  indolent  and  unhappy,  are  always  pining 
for  the  greater  freedom  of  their  previous  state. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


SIERRA  LEOXE  CONCLUDED. 

Revenue  of  the  Colony — Government — Commerce — Trade  with  the 
U.  S. — Schools  and  Churches — Methodist  Missions — Rev.  Mr.  Bowen's 
View  of  Freetown — Advantages  of  Sierra  Leone  as  a  Mission  Field — 
Hon.  Mr.  Snijthe — Rev.  Mr.  Jones — ^Pleasant  Hours — Tlie  Man- 
dingoes — An  Appeal  for  Arabic  Bibles  and  otlier  Books — Questions 
concerning  Ciirist — Ingenuity  of  Mandingo  Mechanics — Market  of 
Freetown — Adiciu 

The  revenue  of  the  colony  of  Sien-a  Leone  is  derived  from 
a  direct  tax  imposed  on  all  holders  of  real-estate,  and  from 
the  custom-house  receipts.  Every  freeholder  pays  an 
annual  tax  of  one  dollar  and  twenty  cents ;  but  -when  his 
estate  is  wortli  more  than  $100,  lie  pays  five  per  cent,  per 
annum  on  his  income.  In  1855,  this  revenue  amounted  to 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollars.  The  expenses 
of  the  colony  are  but  a  trifle  in  excess  of  this ;  it  is,  there- 
fore, evident,  that  in  a  year  or  two  it  will  be  self-support- 
ing, and  soon  Avill  be  a  source  of  wealth  to  the  British 
crown  directly,  as  it  has  long  been  to  her  merchants.  The 
roads,  bridges,  wharves  and  other  works  of  public  utilitj', 
arc  kept  in  order  by  a  tax  of  thirty-six  cents,  per  capita, 
collected  from  every  able-bodied  adult  resident.  A  week's 
work  on  the  road  may  be  substituted  for  this. 

The  judicial  law  of  the  colony  is  the  common  law  of 
Englantl,  administered  by  petty  magistrato<5,  a  chief  justice, 
and  a  chief  magistrate.  Criminal  cases,  as  with  us,  are  tried 

05 


96         PERSONAL  ADVENTOKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


hj  a  jury.  The  legislative  body  is  a  council  chamber, 
of  which  the  governor  is  president,  and  of  Avhich  the 
bishop,  colonial  secretary,  collector  of  customs,  chief 
magistrate,  and  the  chief  of  the  police  are  permanent 
members. 

The  commerce  of  Sierra  Leone  is  rapidly  increasing,  and 
considering  the  age  of  the  colony,  and  tlie  disadvantages 
mider  which  it  has  labored,  from  the  character  of  its 
inhabitants,  and  the  frequent  changes  among  its  officers  by 
death  and  removals,  has  already  attained  to  quite  noticeable 
proportions.  In  1855,  the  value  of  importations  amounted 
to  $574,500,  and  the  exports  to  $852,135,  The  iiroductions 
of  the  i^resent  year  (1858)  may  be  safely  estimated  at  one 
million  of  dollars.  From  Lieut.  Myers,  of  our  ship,  I 
received  the  following  statement : 

"  The  number  of  American  vessels  which  arrived  in  the 
port  of  Freetown  in  the  course  of  eight  months,  in  the 
year  1856,  is  seventeen.  Total  tonnage,  3,722.  Cargoes 
imported  were  general,  mainly  flour  and  other  provisions." 

The  more  important  articles  of  exportation  are  timber, 
palm-oil,  pea-nuts  and  palm-nuts.  The  teakwood,  of  which 
large  quantities  are  shipped  to  England,  is  highly  valuable 
in  ship-buildmg. 

In  Freeto\'ra  there  is  a  grammar  school  supported  by  the 
government,  and  nvmibering  two  lumdrcd  and  thirty  stu- 
dents. The  other  schools  in  the  colony  are  sui-)ported  by 
the  missionary  societies  of  the  Methodist  and  Episcopal 
churches,  and  are  attended  by  over  8,000  regular  day 
scholars.  There  arc  besides  these,  two  collegiate  institutes, 
in  which  young  men  are  i>reparcd  for  teaching  and  the 
ministry.    One  of  these  is  supported  by  the  British  Con- 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


97 


ference  of  the  Methodist  church ;  the  other  by  the  Mis- 
sionary Society  of  the  church  of  England.  The  church  in 
the  colony  is  represented  by  denominations,  which  stand  in 
number  and  importance  in  the  following  order:  Methodists, 
7,000 ;  attendants  on  public  worship,  12,000  ;  church  of 
England,  4,000 ;  communicants,  attendants,  G,000 ;  Afri- 
can Methodists,  Lady  Huntingdons,  and  Baptists  together, 
2,000. 

The  ]\[ethodists  here,  as  everywhere  in  Africa,  are  doing 
a  successful  and  permanent  work.  The  oflScers  of  the 
church  are  as  follows :  Missionaries,  7 ;  local  jjreachers, 
seven  of  whom  speak  their  mother  tongues,  135  ;  day- 
achool  teachers,  47 ;  Sunday-school  teachers,  160 ;  they 
have  thirty  chapels  and  several  outside  preaching-places ; 
twenty-one  day-schools,  and  the  same  number  of  Sunday- 
echools.  The  Episcopalians  have  more  schools  and  scholars, 
but  in  their  system  of  class-meetings,  which  they  carry  out 
in  true  Wcsleyan  form  and  spirit,  the  Methodists  have  the 
advantage  of  them,  and  indeed  of  all  others,  in  training 
candidates  for  membership.  The  probationary  relation  is 
protracted  imtil  they  are  thoroughly  mdoctrinatcd  in  the 
cardinal  truths  of  Christianity,  and  give  evidence  that  they 
arc  practical  Cliristians.  The  members  of  this  and  other 
churches  give  liberally,  for  their  means,  toward  the  support 
of  the  missionaries  and  the  day-schools.  Several  of  the 
latter,  among  both  Methodists  and  Episcopalians,  are  self- 
supporting. 

In  view  of  the  above  facts,  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to 
find,  in  I\Ir.  Bowen's  excellent  work  on  Central  Africa,  the 
following  passage :  "  Freetown  itself  is  a  great  and 
important  missionary  field,  especially  to  those  who  preach 

5 


OS         PEKSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  Gospel  as  preaclied  by  Baptists.  I  am  not  aware  of  the 
light  in  Avhich  this  remark  may  be  regarded  ;  nevertheless, 
Sierra  Leone  does  need  the  doctrine  and  the  practical 
common-sense  preaching  and  management  which  Baptists 
can  give  them."  Like  Mr.  B.,  I  am  at  a  loss  to  know  liow 
this  remark  may  be  regarded,  especially  in  view  of  the  fact, 
which  Mr.  B.  very  candidly  admits,  that  the  Baptist 
missions,  though  conducted  by  English  gentlemen  of  zeal 
and  education,  and  with  respectable  means  at  command, 
have  been  an  utter  failure ;  and  for  the  want  of  that  very 
thing  wliich  Mr.  B.  claims  for  his  denomination  as  a  par- 
excellent  quality,  namely,  practical  common-sense  j^reach- 
ing  and  management.  The  Christian  Avorld  has  yet  to 
learn  that  the  Gospel,  as  preached  by  Baptists,  has  any 
more  common-seiise  in  it  than  the  Gospel  as  preached  by 
other  orthodox  Christians.  We  will  believe,  however,  that 
their  management,  as  applied  to  Africans,  is  excellent  when 
it  is  demonstrated  in  the  fruits  of  the  promising  and 
favorably-situated  missions  of  the  Baptist  denomination  in 
Central  Africa.  Mi-.  Bowen  has  begun  a  good  work  in 
Africa,  and  most  heartily  we  wish  hiin  and  his  colaborera, 
among  whom  we  have  a  highly  esteemed  friend,  God's 
speed. 

Mr.  B.,  Avho  is  a  man  of  uncommon  common-sense,  beheld 
in  Sierra  Leone  peculiar  advantages  and  demands  for  mis- 
sionary labors ;  and  certainly  when  we  consider  that  here 
are  the  representatives  of  so  many  tribes,  still  speaking 
their  own  language  and  anxious  to  receive  instruction,  who, 
after  being  instructed,  might  be  sent  back  as  teachers  to 
their  own  people,  or  employed  as  interpreters  and  assist- 
ants to  missionaries  going  south  or  iuteriorwisc,  the  field  is 


SrEEEA  LEONE. 


99 


peculiarly  inviting.  Here,  as  on  the  Gambia,  the  missionary 
of  any  conntry  and  of  any  denomination  •svould  find  wel- 
come and  sympathy.  From  among  the  various  classes  of 
the  poiralation,  described  in  the  last  chapter,  he  might 
select  that  field  of  labor  to  Avhich  he  felt  himself  best 
adapted ;  and  in  the  resident  missionaries,  he  would  find 
valuable  advisers  in  selecting  and  planning  his  work.  Let 
not  the  missionary  lightly  esteem  the  dear-bought  ex- 
perience of  his  predecessors.  Had  Mr.  Bowen  associated 
himself  more  extensively  Avith  the  clergymen  of  Sierra 
Leone,  he  would  have  left  some  things  in  his  book  unwrit- 
ten. With  facts  like  these,  which  they  might  have  known 
and  ought  to  have  known,  how  could  the  Committee  on 
Missions  of  the  late  General  Conference  of  the  M.  E.  church, 
South,  state  to  the  world  that  to  their  missionaries  there  is 
"no  opening  in  Africa."  But  I  shall  pay  my  respects  to 
that  very  unmethodistic  and  timid  clause  of  their  report 
after  a  while. 

A  few  mornings  after  our  arrival,  I  breakfiisted  by  invi- 
tation with  the  lion.  IMr.  Smythc,  the  colonial  secretary, 
and  was  met  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Jones,  i>roside*it  of  the  Epis- 
copal Collegiate  Institute.  Seldom  has  it  been  my  privilege 
to  spend  a  morning  so  jileasantly  as  that  i)assed  in  the 
society  of  these  intelligent  and  Christian  gentlemen, 
Mr.  Smythc  and  his  accomplished  lady  are  bright  mulat- 
toes,  natives  of  the  West  Indies.  Mr.  Jones  is  a  native  of 
Charleston,  South  Carolina,  and  like  most  Carolinians,  black 
or  white,  is  very  proud  of  his  State.  He  is  a  man  of  warm 
Houthcrn  feelings — s.nid  he  loved  the  Soutli  and  southern 
lioojile,  and  believed  that  toward  his  race  tlicy  have 
kindlier  feelings,  and  sincorer  friendship,  than  the  people  of 


100        TEESONAL  ADTENTUEE8  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


the  Xorth  or  "West.  He  did  not  hesitate  to  express  the 
desire  that  certain  ameliorations  might  take  place  in  the 
condition  of  colored  people  in  the  South  ;  he  believed  that 
as  they  advanced  in  morals  and  intelligence,  their  condition 
would  be  improved,  and  he  rested  his  hopes  of  this  on  his 
knowledge  of  the  noble  impulses  of  the  southern  gentleman, 
and  not  on  the  insincere  jiretensions  of  northern  agitators. 
In  early  life,  Mr.  Jones  went  to  England,  where,  in  the 
course  of  time,  he  received  a  classical  education  and  holy 
orders,  and  was  at  length  promoted  to  the  important 
position  which  he  now  honors  and  enjoys.  In  his  manners, 
he  reminded  me  much  of  Andrew  Marshall,  of  Savannah  ; 
he  is,  however,  many  years  younger,  and  several  shades 
darker  than  he.  He  received  his  first  lesson  in  religion  and 
letters  from  Mr.  Pine,  formerly  rector  of  the  Episcopal 
church  in  Charleston.  His  mother  A\ill  be  recollected  by 
many  of  the  old  citizens  of  Charleston,  as  the  keejier  of  a 
respectable  boarding-house  near  the  market. 

The  Mandingoes,  to  whom  we  referred  in  the  last  chap- 
ter, are  the  representatives  of  a  large  and  powerful  tribe  of 
the  interior.  They  are  tall  and  erect  in  person,  regular  in 
features,  dignified  and  taciturn,  and  characterized  by  mental 
and  physical  activity,  industry  and  intelligence.  In  their 
village,  on  the  eastern  suburbs  of  Freetown,  they  hnw 
several  schools,  where,  luider  Mohammedan  priests  of  their 
own  tribes,  their  children  are  taught  to  read  and  MTite 
Arabic,  and  study  the  Koran.  In  the  schools  which  I 
visited,  in  company  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Dillon,  the  childi-en 
were  transcribing  passages  from  an  Arabic  Bible ;  they  sat 
on  the  groimd,  and,  holding  the  slip  of  paper  on  a  board 
restmg  on  their  knees,  wrote  with  a  pen  made  fi-om  a  small 


SIERRA  LEONE 


101 


cane  or  reed.  The  British  Bible  Society  lately  made  a 
donation  of  Arabic  Bibles  to  the  missionaries  of  FreetowTi 
for  the  benefit  of  these  and  other  Mohammedan  tribes.  Mr. 
""Dillon  informed  me  that  they  accepted  them  readily,  read 
them  and  took  care  of  them,  and  appUed  for  a  larger  sup- 
ply, that  they  might  send  some  copies  to  their  brethren  in 
the  interior. 

"  The  African  Mohammedan,"  said  the  priest  of  the  school, 
"  will  read  anything  that  is  written  in  Arabic."  He  him- 
self was  thoroughly  read  in  the  Old  and  Xew  Testament 
Scriptures,  and  I  believe  was  "  almost  persuaded."  Dr.  S., 
who  was  with  us,  asked  him  : 

"Who  is  Christ  ?» 

"Jesus  is  the  Son  of  Mary,"  said  he, 

"  But  who  is  his  Father  ?"  continued  the  doctor. 

"  Had  none,"  was  the  reply. 

"  How  can  that  be  ?" 

"  Don't  know,"  said  the  priest,  shaking  his  head,  adding, 
at  the  same  time,  some  words  of  his  own  language,  which 
Mr.  Dillon  informed  us  signified  "  Mystery,  mystery." 

Cannot  these  intelligent  people  be  supplied  with  Arabic 
Bibles,  Evidences  of  Christianity,  Catechisms  and  other 
good  books  in  the  Arabic  language  ?  AVe  believe  that  the 
Word,  where  it  is  read,  will  produce  good  results — that  it 
will  not  return  void.    Let  us  act  our  belief ! 

The  Mandingocs  wear  turbans  or  fez  caps,  and  those  who 
can  aftbrd  it  sport  gaily  colored  togas,  and  strong  leathern 
sandals.  Their  liouses  are  larger  and  more  cleanly  than 
tliosc  of  the  more  barbarous  tribes.  The  walls  arc  gcne- 
raJly  eight  or  ten  feet  in  height,  and  about  tM'o  feet  in  tliick- 
ness,  being  built  of  a  red  tenacious  clay.    Tlicy  arc  often 


102     PERSONAL  ad'v:ei«tuees  and  observations. 


supplied  with  ■window  sashes,  aud  well-made  doors ;  in  the 
windows,  oiled  paper  generally  suppUes  the  place  of  glass. 
We  visited  one  of  theii-  blacksmith  shops,  where  they  were 
engaged  in  making  dirks  aud  rough  swords  from  old  iron«» 
They  told  us  that  in  the  interior  they  prepared  theu'  own 
iron,  which  they  dig  out  of  the  mountains.  The  primitive 
and  ingenious  construction  of  the  blacksmith's  bellows 
attracted  our  attention.  It  is  a  bifurcated  tube ;  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  forks  are  sup2:)hed  with  two  bags  of  kid- 
skin,  a  boy  sits  between  these,  holding  the  bags  by  the 
necks,  one  in  each  hand ;  as  he  raises  them,  he  opens  his 
hands  so  as  to  admit  the  air  into  each  sack,  then  closing 
them  tightly  and  pressing  do"\\Ti,  forces  the  air  through  the 
tube  into  the  burnmg  coals.  By  working  his  hands  alter- 
nately he  produces  a  coutiniaous  and  strong  stream  of  ah. 
They  have  some  idea  of  castmg,  also,  and  showed  us  rings, 
httle  bhds,  and  other  ornaments  molded  in  brass.  Li 
leather  work  they  are  very  ingenious  ;  aud  have  looms  for 
the  manufacture  of  coarse  cloths  aud  matting — commonly 
grass-cloth,  prepared  JQfom  the  inner  bark  of  certain  trees. 

The  market  of  Sierra  Leone  presents  many  objects  of 
interest  to  the  American,  such,  for  exami^le,  as  monkeys, 
baked  bats,  and  pounded  locusts,  as  articles  of  food.  Hero, 
however,  as  everywhere  else  in  the  colony,  European  com- 
modities and  styles  are  drivmg  out  the  heathenish  aud 
African.  To  see  an  African  market  in  full  character,  we 
must  go  further  South. 

On  the  morning  of  the  last  day  of  our  stay  in  Sierra 
Leone,  tlic  Rev.  Messrs.  Teal  and  Dillon  visited  our  ship 
and  breakfasted  with  the  ward-room  mess.  In  the  after- 
noon, the  commander  and  commissioned  officers  went  ashore 


SIEEEA  LEONE. 


103 


anci  dined  at  the  liosi^itable  cottage  of  our  worthy  consid, 
Mr.  Taylor,  and  late  in  the  day  \'isited  the  beautiful  garden 
of  the  Church  Collegiate  Institute.  Here  we  met  again 
^our  respected  friend  Mr,  Jones,  who  took  much  pleasure  in 
pointing  out  to  us  the  luxuriant  beauties  of  tropical  vegeta- 
tion, flourishing  in  the  well-kept  grounds  of  his  delightful 
residence.  Next  day  we  laid  in  a  good  supply  of  stores, 
here  readily  obtained,  and  spreading  our  canvas  to  the 
breeze,  turned  to  the  open  sea.  Having  made  many  plea- 
sant acquaintances  among  the  government  ofiicers,  mission- 
aries and  other  residents,  we  left  with  the  hojje  of  returning 
before  the  end  of  the  cruise ;  but  that  evening,  as  the  red 
hues  of  sunset  lingered  on  the  "  chariot  of  the  gods,"  *  Ave 
saw  Sierra  Leone  for  the  last  time. 

D'Anville  supposed  the  mountains  of  Sierra  Lconc  to  be  those  which 
were  denominated  by  the  ancients  the  "  Chariot  of  the  gods." 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


KKOOMEN. 

Coast  of  Liberia — Visitors — Kroomen — Their  Employment,  Villages,  etc. 
— Tom  Pepper  and  Ben  CofiFee — ^Names  of  Kroomen — Domestic  Sys- 
tem— Religious  Ideas — Superstitions — Their  First  Pai'ont — Origin  of 
the  name,  Kroo — Tradition  respecting  the  Origin  of  the  White  and 
Black  Races — Comparative  Intelligence,  etc. — Why  are  not  the  Kroos 
more  Civilized? — Commerce  and  Civilization. 

Lakd-iio  !  sounded  from  the  main-toii,  and  an  Lour  after, 
Cape  Mount,  on  the  coast  of  Liberia,  was  visible  from  the 
quarter  deck.  Black  specks  were  descried  on  the  distant 
waves,  bounding  from  crest  to  crest  on  their  way  to  meet 
us,  like  things  of  life. 

We  were  soon  among  them,  and  what  seemed  to  be  gulls, 
or  other  sea-birds,  in  the  distance,  turned  out  to  be  canoes, 
or  Avhat  we  familiarly  term  dug-outs,  generally  eighteen 
inches  wide,  and  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  long,  each 
carrying  from  one  to  four  naked  savages.  Not  entirely 
naked,  however,  for  each  had  on  an  old  hat  or  a  handker- 
chief about  his  head,  and  rings  of  ivory,  tin,  or  brass  on  his 
ankles  and  Avrists,  besides  charms  or  gris-gris — pronounced 
grcc-(/recs — round  the  neck.  "We  were  twenty  miles  from 
shore,  and  the  sea  ran  very  high  ;  yet  these  venturers  tiu-ncd 
and  man(Lnivrcd  their  light  crafts  with  as  much  case  and 
confidence  as  if  they  were  flo.iting  on  a  lake,  and  kept  close 
alongside,  although  we  were  going  at  the  rate  of  eight 
knots  an  hour.    Several  were  permitted  to  come  on  board, 


KKOOMEJT. 


105 


where  they  made  some  alterations  in  toilet^  by  transferring 
the  kerchief  from  the  head  to  the  loins,  and  thus  equipped, 
proceeded  to  present  their  testimonials  and  letters  of  recom- 
-  mendation,  which  they  carried  in  leathern  or  tin  cases  sus- 
pended from  the  neck,  or  folded  in  the  head-dress,  to  the 
commander,  and  to  ask  for  employment. 

These  are  the  Kroomen  so  frequently  mentioned  by 
African  voyagers,  and  so  favorably  kno^Ti  to  our  traders 
and  cruisers.  They  generally  speak  a  little  broken  Eng- 
lish, and  from  their  acquaintance  with  the  tribes  and  har- 
bors of  the  coast,  are  very  useful  as  pilots  and  interpreters. 
They  occupy  several  villages  along  the  coasts  of  Sierra  Leone 
and  Liberia,  Avhere,  though  mixed  with  other  tribes,  they 
preserve  their  own  forms  of  government  and  religion. 
When  a  vessel  appears  on  the  horizon,  they  launch  their 
'canoes  and  go  out  to  meet  her ;  the  head  men,  or  leaders 
of  gangs,  go  on  board,  and  he  who  can  make  the  best  pala- 
ver generally  finds  employment  for  himself  and  gang. 
Traders  and  men-of-war  find  these  men  vciy  useful  in  row- 
ing boats  and  other  Avork  which  involves  an  exposure  to  the 
sun,  such  as  white  men  cannot  stand  on  the  coast  without 
great  risk  of  Ufe,  especially  on  the  rivers.  They  engage 
themselves  for  the  cruise,  at  rates  which  vary  from  four  to 
ten  dollars  per  month,  and  always  on  the  condition  that 
they  shall  be  returned,  at  the  end  of  it,  to  the  port  where 
they  were  shipped.  These  wages  seem  small,  but  when 
they  have  made  a  few  cruises  on  men-of-war,  and  saved  their 
money,  they  have  enough  to  make  them  indej)endent  for 
life.  The  young  and  single  men,  at  the  end  of  a  cruise, 
after  su]>i)Iying  themselves  with  gay  kerchiefs  and  trinkets, 
and  reserving  a  little  for  pocket-money,  deposit  their  carn- 

5* 


106       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AKD  0BSEE7ATI0NS. 


ings  with  some  aged  relative,  who,  after  supplying  his  own 
wants,  divides  the  remainder  among  the  needy  relations. 
Cases  of  extraordinary  liberality  in  this  direction  are  nume- 
rous among  them,  and  secure  to  the  giver  the  favor  of  his 
tribe.  Those  who  are  matrimonially  inclined  invest  their 
funds  in  wives,  and  are  important  and  independent  in  pro- 
l^ortion  to  the  number  they  own. 

Here  I  must  anticipate  myself  a  Uttle,  and  introduce  two 
gentlemen,  who,  with  a  dozen  others,  we  shijiped  at  Mon- 
rovia— -Tom  Pepper  and  Ben  Coffee.  I  enjoyed  the  confi- 
dence of  these  intelligent  leaders  of  our  Kroo  company,  and 
in  the  course  of  the  cruise  gathered  a  great  deal  of  informa- 
tion from  them  respecting  their  own  and  other  tribes. 
Their  names  are  not  half  so  dignified  as  their  manners,  but, 
like  the  names  of  all  Kroomen,  are  given  at  the  caprice  of 
fun-loving  sailors,  and  though  sometimes  changed  by  new 
employers,  generally  stick  to  them  for  life.  The  following 
are  fair  samples  of  some  of  them,  and  familiar  to  the  coast 
cruiser:  Ben  Jumbo,  Jim  Crow,  Lilly  White,  Beef  Steak, 
Bottle  o'Beer,  Ginger  Pop. 

"  Tom,"  said  I  to  Pepper  one  day,  near  the  end  of  the 
cruise,  and  after  making  out  his  account,  which  amount- 
ed to  something  like  a  hundred  dollars,  "  what  are 
you  going  to  do  with  all  this  money  when  you  get 
home  ?" 

"  Buy  Avife." 

"You  just  now  told  me  that  you  had  three  already  1" 

"  Yes,  sa,  but  I  want  tree  mo." 

"  What,  six !    How  can  you  support  so  many  ?" 

"  O,  he  s'port  he  self,  sa." 

"  Who  supports  the  children  ?" 


KEOOMEN. 


107 


"  He  s'port  dem  too ;  and  s'pose  I  no  ^vant  for  go  sea  no 
more,  he  work  for  me  too." 

"  Whom  do  yon  buy  your  wives  from  ?" 

"He  fader;  s'pose  he  got  no  fader,  I  dash — make  a 
present — he  'latiou,  an'  he  sell  um." 

"  How  much  is  a  nice  young  wife  worth  ?" 

"  S'pose  he  people  be  poor,  he  sell  for  twenty  dollar ; 
s'pose  he  no  want  to  sell  much,  he  be  price  fiftee  dollai",  an' 
heap  dash." 

This  law  of  estimate  ajiplies  among  fairer  maidens  than 
the  dusky  daughters  of  the  Kroos.  I  tried  to  convince 
Tom  that  such  a  state  of  tilings  was  wrong,  impolitic,  and 
imnatural ;  but  when  I  closed  the  argument,  Tom  replied, 
with  a  grin  of  good-natured  incredulity  : 

"  You  no  like  him,  but  he  be  berry  good  for  wo 
people." 

The  Kroos  are  at  present  insignificant,  in  pomt  of  num- 
bers, and  the  only  territory  which  they  now  claim  as  their 
own,  is  a  small  district  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Palraas ;  but 
physically  and  mentally  tliey  are  in  advance  of  most  of  the 
non-Mohammedized  tribes,  and  are  believed  by  traders  to  be 
faithful,  brave,  and  lionest,  above  all  their  brethren.  There 
is  a  tradition  among  them  which  I  am  inclined  to  believe, 
namely,  that  they  are  descended  from  a  people  who  once 
possessed  many  hundred  miles  of  sea-coast,  who  were  the 
most  powerful  of  the  triljcs  of  Avest  Africa,  but  who  have 
been  re<luccd  by  surrounding  tribes,  allied  against  them  in 
■war,  and  lliat  this  tribe  was  not  originally  called  Kroo. 
They  pride  themselves  in  the  belief  that  none  of  their  peo- 
ple were  ever  sold  as  slaves  ;  yet  they  themselves  have  ever 
been  active  abettors  of  slaving,  and  it  is  likely  that  their 


108       PEESONAL  ADVENTCEES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


numbers  were  much  reduced  by  stealage,  during  the  preva- 
lence of  the  trade.  They  admit  that  after  loading  the 
slavers,  the  Kroomen  were  sometimes  carried  off  Avith  the 
cargo  ;  but  will  not  admit  that  they  were  afterward  sold. 
They  were,  no  doubt,  lured  ofi"  with  the  jn-omise  of  being 
sent  back,  but  the  good  price  offered  for  such  fine-looking 
fellows  was  a  bait  that  English  and  Sj^anish  traders  could 
not  resist.  It  is  a  fact,  however,  that  they  are  not  to  be 
found  as  slaves  among  the  surrounding  peoples.  As  evi- 
dence of  their  muscular  development,  we  state,  that  he  is 
considered  a  weak  man  among  them  who  cannot  hold  a  bar- 
rel of  beef — 200  lbs. — at  arm's  length  above  his  head,  and 
walk  with  it  through  a  heavy  surf  to  a  boat  two  hundred 
yards  from  shore.  In  features  they  are  less  coarse  than  the 
Guinea-man,  have  moi'e  beard  than  many  others,  and  in 
color  are  of  a  dark  chocolate,  rather  than  black.  They  are 
monotheists,  yet  worship  idols,  because,  like  most  other 
idolaters,  they  believe  that  these  are  the  media  through 
which  men  must  apijroacli  unto  God.  W7iat  a  loud  though 
unconscious  cry  for  the  Qreat  Mediator  !  They  believe 
also  in  the  existence  of  devils  or  evil  spirits,  and,  I  think, 
pray  to  them,  and  also  in  a  future  state  of  rewards  and 
punishments.  They  are  naturally  inclined  to  fatalism — will 
make  great  Calvinists  some  day  ! — but  are,  notwithstandmg, 
quite  superstitious,  and  contact  with  civilized  men  effects 
but  little  change  in  their  ideas  on  this  subject. 

One  of  our  Kroomen  died  of  cholera  while  we  were  cruis- 
ing off  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  in  1856,  and  was  buried  in  the 
sea.  Next  morning  one  of  the  mess-mates  of  the  deceased 
reiJOrted  himself  sick,  but  without  showing  any  particular 
symptoms. 


KEOOMEN. 


109 


"  What  is  the  matter  with  that  Kroo  boy  in  the  sick 
bay  ?"  said  I  to  Tom  Pepper. 
"  He  be  skeere,  sa." 
"Scared  of  what?" 

"  He  tink  he  been  see  de  dead  man  on  deck  las'  night." 

"  Nonsense,  Tom  !  You  don't  believe  that,  do  you  ?"  I 
supposed  that  Tom  was  too  intelligent  for  that,  but  he  un- 
deceived me,  saying,  with  a  thoughtful  face  : 

"  I  dun  no,  sa — I  tink  may  be  so,  he  see  um." 

I  made  Tom  act  as  interpreter,  while  I  tried  to  explain 
to  the  poor  fellow,  that  if  such  an  ai)pearance  Avere  pos- 
sible, it  could  do  him  no  harm.  The  talk  didn't  convince 
Tom,  but  an  hour  after  I  saw  the  sick  maii  on  deck  laugh- 
ing and  talking  with  his  companions. 

They  hold  that  their  first  jiarent  on  coming  from  heaven 
landed  near  a  large  lake  in  their  country,  and  that  a  canoe 
and  equipment  were  proviiled  for  him ;  that,  therefore,  they 
are  fond  of  sea-going  as  a  profession,  and  tliat  they  are 
less  liable  to  accidents  on  water  than  otlicrs.  I  imagine 
that  the  jiresent  name  of  this  race  is  a  corruption  of  Crew- 
man, they  having  been  employed  as  portions  of  the  crews  of 
traders  on  the  coast  for  many  centuries.  They  have  an 
interesting  tradition  relating  to  the  origin  of  the  white  and 
black  races  and  their  comparative  merits.  The  internal 
evidence  will  not  sustain  the  antiquity  claimed  for  it,  but 
we  may  suppose  that  the  instruments  of  modern  science  re- 
ferred to  in  it  are  mei'c  interpolations,  employed  to  express 
the  idea  more  forcibly.  It  recognizes  black  and  white  as 
original  distinctions,  yet  gives  to  the  two  races  a  common 
origin  in  point  of  time.  Ben  ColTee,  who  is  the  inost  intel- 
ligent Kroo  that  I  have  seen,  a  man  of  character,  intelligence, 


110       PERSONAL  ADVENTTJKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


and  Tvell  versed  in  the  customs  and  traditions  of  his  tribe, 
and  who  withal  speaks  quite  understandable  English,  must 
be  allowed  to  tell  his  own  story. 

"  Let  lis  call  up  Ben  and  ask  him.  some  questions,"  said 
the  officer  of  the  deck,  with  whom  I  had  been  discussing  the 
peculiarities  of  our  black  shipmates. 

"  Ben  Coffee,"  said  I,  "  do  your  people  believe  that  there 
is  a  God  ?" 

"  Ji'o,  sir." 

"  What  do  they  suppose  made  the  sea,  the  sun,  and  the 
moon  ?" 

"  iN'eahswah  make  him." 

"  Who,  or  what  is  Neahswah  ?" 

"  He  what  make  me  and  all  dem  tings.  Mos  same  Avhat 
you  caU  Jesa  Chrise." 

"  Very  good,  Ben ;  I  think  we  understand  each  other. 
Can  Neahswah  die,  Ben  ?" 

"No,  he  lib  all  time." 

"  Can  he  do  evei'ything  ?" 

"  Yes." 

"  Is  he  in  every  place  ?" 

"  Tes,  all  place  same  time." 

"  Is  he  good  ?" 

"  I  tink  so — sometime.'''' 

"  What  do  your  people  thmk  ?" 

"  lie  tink  he  good  sometime.'''' 

"Poor  Ben!"  said  I,  " the  unassisted  reason  of  a  Plato 
could  say  no  more.  Tell  me  again,"  said  I,  "  what  your 
people  say  about  the  beginning  of  the  black  and  white 
men  ?" 

Pepper  came  up  as  a  listener :  and  Ben,  clearing  his  throat 


ELKOOMEIf. 


Ill 


and  hitching  up  his  pauts,  proceeded,  with  a  solemu  face,  as 
follows : 

"  Neahswah,  after  he  make  land  and  sea,  make  a  brack 
man  and  white  boy.  He  make  um  same  time — brack  man 
fus,  leetle  bit.  Den  he  make  big  house,  an  iu  de  house  make 
big  chop  (a  feast) — hab  rice,  cassada,  fish,  palm  wine,  plan- 
tain, an  heap  we  people  wittles ;  an  he  hab  roas  meat,  sof 
tak  (wheaten  bread),  white  people  wine,  andheap  ting.  Den 
in  same  place  wid  de  chop  he  put  calabash,  wine  glass,  fish 
hook,  knife  an  fork,  watch,  compass,  an  heap  strange  tiug ; 
an  den  on  de  sea,  by  de  house,  he  put  cunnoo  and  paddle, 
and  big  shij)  an  all  de  rope  an  sail  fix,  Neahswah  say, 
'  Brack  man  go  in  dat  chop,  eat,  an  den  take  what  ting  you 
like.  I  Avaut  sec  which  be  smarter,  you  nor  dis  white  boy.' 
Brack  man  go  in,  he  tase  de  roas  meat,  do  sof  tak,  de  wine  ; 
He  say,  '  me  no  like  dis.'  He  tase  de  palm  wine,  de  fish,  de 
rice,  de  cassada ;  he  say, '  I  like  dis,'  an  he  eat  lot  of  um. 
Den  he  look  at  de  tings,  de  compass,  de  watch,  de  knife  an 
fork,  he  say, '  I  no  saby  dis  ' — {sahy  or  sava  is  used  on  the 
whole  coast  as  synonymous  with  understand).  lie  look  at 
de  calabash,  at  de  fish  hook  an  line,  he  say,  '  me  saby  dis.' 
He  take  um  an  go  to  de  beach  ;  he  see  de  big  ship,  he  no 
like  um — he  feared.  He  see  de  cunnoo,  he  say,  '  dis  do  for 
me  catch  fish  ;'  he  take  um. 

"  Ncahswah  say, '  "White  boy  go  in  chop  ;  cat,  an  take 
what  ting  you  like.'  He  cat  de  7iice  icittle,  but  no  eat  much, 
like  brack  man.  He  look  at  de  watch,  compass,  an  all 
strange  ting  ;  he  say,  '  me  saby  dis,  he  bo  good  for  me,  show 
me  ebery  place.'  He  see  big  ship,  he  no  fear,  he  dim  up  an 
fix  sail,  he  say,  '  I  like  um,  he  take  me  far  country.'  He  no 
like  rice,  pahn  wine,  cassada;  he  no  want  for  fish,  he  say, 


112        PEESONAi  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


'  Sim  be  too  liot he  no  like  cunnoo,  cause  he  turn  over  wid 
him,  Neahswah  see  all  dis ;  he  call  um  up  ;  he  say,  '  Brack 
man,  dis  yea  white  boy  got  heap  more  sense,  but  he  no  can 
work :  you  good  for  work,'  He  say, '  White  boy,  you  no  can 
work  like  a  dis  yea  man,  but  you  hab  more  sense.'  So  brack 
man  hab  rice,  an  fish,  cassada,  an  hoaj)  good  tmg  for  eat : 
Avhite  people  good  for  make  big  war  shi]),  have  compass,  and 
all  dem  strange  ting.  He  can  make  book,  but  he  no  can 
work  good." 

It  may  be  asked  here  why  are  not  these  people  more 
civilized,  considering  that  for  so  many  generations  they  have 
been  in  intimate  contact  with  civilized  men.  We  answer 
— First,  it  is  not  the  business  of  traders  and  cruisers  to 
teach  the  principles  and  arts  of  civilization.  Secondly, 
Traders  do  not  desire  to  civilize.  Nine-tenths  of  them  be- 
lieve that  it  is  to  their  advantage  to  keep  the  people  with 
whom  they  trade  in  ignorance ;  and  hence  it  is  that,  as  a 
class,  these  men  are  not  favorable  to  missionary  enterprises. 
Be  it  remembered,  however,  that  among  American  and 
English  traders  there  are  noble  exceptions. 

Let  us  say  to  you,  dear  reader,  that  the  talk  of  which  we 
hear  so  much  nowadays,  from  secular  and  religious  men, 
about  the  civilizing  influence  of  commerce,  is  o7ily  talk — 
nothing  more !  That,  when  accompanied  by  the  efforts  of 
the  schoolmaster  and  the  missionaiy,  trade  may  give  an  im- 
petus and  permanency  to  the  work  of  civilization  we  grant. 
That  of  itself  it  is  calculated  to  elevate,  in  any  sense,  those 
brought  within  its  influence,  we  deny.  Nay,  where  traders 
have  preceded  the  teachers  of  civilization,  the  very  name  of 
Christianity  is  in  disrepute  ;  and  the  teacher  of  it  is  received 
Avith  an  opposition  and  distrust  that  years  of  zealous,  disin- 


KEOOMEN. 


113 


terested  labors  may  not  sufBce  to  clissi2')ate ;  for  ■with  the 
name  Christian  the  heathens  have  learned  to  associate  lying, 
injustice,  and  inhumanity. 

But  we  must  not  forget  that  we  are  aboard  ship.  The 
Jamestown  has  dropped  anchor  within  half  a  mile  of  Cape 
Mesurado,  which  rises  250  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  light-house.  It  is  a  calm,  sunny 
evening ;  the  land  of  the  palm  is  before  us,  clothed  in  its 
changeless  green.  The  Kroo  huts  on  the  beach,  the  roofs 
aad  spires  of  Monrovia,  are  glistening  above  the  green  foli- 
age of  the  virgin  forest.  Wlien  morning  comes  we  shall 
take  a  nearer  view  of  much  abused,  extravagantly  praised 
Liberia. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


LIBEKIA. 

Questions  concerning  Liberia — Bowen  and  otlier  Travellers — Friends  of 
the  Colonization  Enterprises — Two  Classes  of  Opponents — A  Meeting- 
place  for  Extremists  of  the  North  and  South — How  Extremists  reason 
— The  "  Capacity  for  Self-government  "  Question — The  Position  of 
Conservative  Southerners — Monrovia. 

It  is  iiitiraated  in  the  last  chaiDter,  that  Liberia  has  not  been 
always  fairly  rej)resentecl  by  those  Avho  have  undertaken  to 
describe  her  and  her  people  to  the  world ;  that  she  has  been 
traduced  by  her  eueiuics,  and,  what  is  worse,  in  effect,  ex- 
cessively praised  by  her  fiiends.  To  this  we  may  add  the 
fact  complained  of  by  emigrants,  by  missionaries,  traders, 
naval  officers,  and  other  visitors,  namely,  the  want  of  i)lain, 
unprejudiced  statements  of  the  present  condition  of  the 
country  and  its  2:)eoplc.  What  is  the  country  m  its  climate, 
soil,  and  productions ;  what  the  advantages  and  difficulties 
in  agricultural  pursuits  ?  What  are  the  people  socially, 
morally,  nationally?  What  do  they  eat,  and  drink,  and 
wear,  and  how  do  they  get  these  indispensable  things  ?  Are 
they  poor  or  rich,  and  what  are  the  chances  of  being  either? 
Are  they  playing  government,  or  are  they  truly  and  hap- 
pily governed,  having  law,  ajid  power  to  maintain  it  ?  If 
60,  how  and  by  whom  arc  they  governed?  Arc  they  entirely 
indeiDcndeiit,  or  capable  of  so  being  ?  Are  they  progress- 
ing in  intelligence,  morals  and  wealth  as  a  nation  ?  If  so, 
will  they  continue  to  progress  ?    If  not,  how  long  before 

114 


LIBEEIA. 


115 


they  get  back  to  the  bush?  These  are  questions  asked 
daily,  and  to  which,  as  we  have  said,  the  answers  liave  been 
doubtful  and  various. 

Bowen's  excellent  chapter  on  Liberia,  Captain  Foote's 
very  creditable  work  on  Africa,  Wilson's  references  to  Libe- 
ria, and  those  of  a  few  others,  are  statements  from  disinter- 
ested parties  worthy  of  notice.  The  account  of  Mr,  Bowen 
I  regard  as  a  clear  and  impartial  one  on  the  subject ;  but 
it,  with  the  few  like  it,  will  go  but  a  short  way  toward  set- 
ting the  2>ublic  mind  right  after  so  much  misrepresentation 
pro  and  con.  The  friends  of  the  colonization  enterprise, 
sanguine  of  success,  have  not  always  been  sufficiently  dis- 
criminating in  accepting  and  publishing  such  testimony  as 
may  be  gathered  from  residents  and  visitors  favorable  to 
their  hopes.  Tlieir  eyes  and  ears  have  been  sensitively 
open  to  instances  of  individual  success,  and  indications  of 
national  advancement,  while  they  have  too  often  turned 
away  from  examples  of  personal  suffering,  which  have  been 
numerous,  and  evils  and  discouragements  wliich  have 
threatened  tbe  existence  of  the  nation.  We  would  not  be 
understood  as  attributing  any  unworthy  motive  to  the  zeal- 
ous friends  of  the  Americo-African  in  Liberia ;  they  are  no- 
ble and  liberal  men  ;  but  we  wisli  to  intimate  that  in  look- 
ing'at  or  describing  tlie  condition  of  their  long  cherished 
scheme,  their  desires  too  often  color  their  statements. 

Among  tlio  traducers  of  this  young  and  struggling  na- 
tion, there  are  two  classes,  who  are  stone-blind  and  adder- 
deaf  in  tlieir  prejudices,  and  unsparing  in  their  abuse.  These 
arc  the  abolitionists  of  the  North,  and  the  extremists  of  the 
South.  We  congratulate  tlic.se  gentlemen  on  finding  at  last 
a  ground  of  common  sympathy  ! 


116       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  abolitionists,  as  a  class,  have  ever  been  opposed  to 
colonizing  the  free  blacks  of  .  America  in  Africa,  professing 
to  believe — certainly  they  have  never  acted  their  belief — 
that  the  black  man,  born  in  America,  is  entitled  to  all  the 
rights  and  privileges,  social  and  civil,  of  a  fi'ee  man  here. 
I  imagine,  however,  that  if  they  had  no  other  argument, 
the  fact  that  colonization  is  a  southern-born  enterprise, 
would  be  sufficient  to  excite  their  implacable  opposition. 

There  is  a  class  of  men  in  the  South,  happily  a  very  small 
class,  who  talk  very  skeptically  on  such  questions  as  the 
miity  of  the  human  race,  the  expediency  of  Christian  mis- 
sions among  slaves,  or  negroes  in  any  condition,  the  immor- 
tality of  the  black  man's  soul,  or,  indeed,  as  to  whether  he 
has  a  soul  at  all — who  regard  him  as  havmg  no  connection 
with  the  genus  homo,  but  rather  as  a  development  of  the 
monkey,  say  the  ourang-outang  or  chimpanzee,  whose  tail, 
from  constant  chpping,  has  at  length  taken  the  hint  to  stay 
"  close  aboard."  These  gentlemen  seem  to  live  in  constant 
dread  that  the  negroes,  in  Liberia  or  elsewhere,  wUl  de- 
monstrate capacity  for  self  government ;  that,  as  a  result,  the 
slaves  will  be  freed,  their  plantations  left  without  laborers, 
and  their  halls  without  servants.  It  is  scarcely  to  be  ex- 
pected that  these  will  be  fi-iendly  to  colonization  enter- 
prises ;  much  less  is  it  to  be  ex2)ected  that  they  can  see  any 
good  in  Liberia,  or  Liberians.  I  have  a  friend  of  this  class, 
an  officer  in  the  navy,  and  a  most  excellent  fellow  in  his 
way,  I  met  him  not  long  ago  in  St.  Jago,  on  his  return 
from  Monrovia.  After  the  usual  salutations  passed, "  Well," 
Baid  I,  "what  is  the  news  from  below?"  "Famine,  sir, 
among  the  colonists — natives  have  quit  bringing  in  rice, 
and  there  is  nothing  else  to  live  on.    Saw  several  of  the 


LIBEKIA. 


117 


Liberians  in  Krootown.  Large  numbers  had  quit  town,  and 
hired  themselves  oi;t  to  the  natives.  No  doubt  of  it,  sir  ! 
All  over.  It's  a  failure !  Bet  a  month's  pay  that  before 
two  years  the  last  man  w*ill  throw  away  his  pants  and  take 
to  the  woods."  Another  acquaintance  of  ours,  from  the 
snowy  side  of  Mason  and  Dixon,  came  to  a  similar  conclu- 
sion, but  from  very  different  premises.  He  landed  at  Mon- 
rovia in  the  usual  Avay,  viz.,  leaving  the  boat  beyond  the 
surf,  and  reaching  the  beach  on  the  shoulders  of  a  Kroo- 
man,  Hjs  bearer  dumped  him  down  rather  heavily,  and 
much  to  the  discomfort  of  a  very  gouty  toe,  the  pain  from 
which  so  disturbed  his  Faneuil  Ilall  philanthropy  that  he 
wished  "  all  the  negroes  in  the  very  bottom  of  h — ."  The 
reader  can  supply  the  blank  with  Halifax.  "  Sir,"  continued 
he,  "  they  call  this  a  government — a  republic !  A  pretty 
republic,  w^here  a  gentleman  has  to  land  on  the  back  of  a 
darkey,  and  at  the  risk  of  breaking  liis — his — his — his  neck. 
Why  don't  they  build  a  pier,  docks,  wharves,  or  other  con- 
veniences for  landing?  But  I  see,  they  are  good-for-no- 
thing fellows,  sir !" 

"Haven't  the  means,"  suggested  his  companion.  "A 
million  dollars  would  make  but  a  small  sliow  on  this  shift- 
ing sand  and  open  sea,  toward  building  piers ;  and  besides, 
when  it  is  not  rough  on  the  bar,  boats  may  enter  the  river, 
where  there  are  good  landings." 

" Means— millions— open  sea,  indeed!  Nonsense!  It's 
all  laziness,  sir  I  I  am  satisfied,  sir  !  They'll  never  do  any- 
thing, sir  !  Never,  sir ;  that  is,  here  !  Fools  for  coming, 
ir!"  Nor  was  this  conclusion,  formed  even  before  Mon- 
rovia had  been  visited,  ever  changed. 

If  there  appeared  the  decimal  of  a  hope  for  the  conver- 


118        PEESONAL  ADVENTtEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


sion  of  this  class  of  ineu,  vre  -VTOiild  read  tlicm  a  short 
chajiter  on  the  enormity  of  their  inconsistencies,  and  the 
nakedness  of  their  hypocrisy ;  but  the  decimal  is  -wanting. 
To  the  southern  extremist,  -who  fears  that  the  successful 
establishment  of  Liberia  will  in  some  way  or  other  affect 
the  value  of  his  bills  of  sale,  we  would  suggest,  for  his  com- 
fort, that  it  is  by  no  means  a  settled  question  among  the 
statesmen  and  philosoi>hers  of  the  world,  whether  the  An- 
glo-Saxon is  capable  of  self-government  or  not.  If  the  ca- 
pacity for  self-government  is  still  in  debate  in  regard  to  the 
race  which  occupies  the  summit  of  modern  civilization, 
when  shall  it  be  determined  in  regard  to  those  who,  con- 
fessedly, occupy  the  lowest  place  in  the  scale  of  human  in- 
telligence ?  It  is  claimed  for  England,  by  Englishmen,  that 
her  government  answers  all  the  ends  of  government,  extend- 
ing to  its  people  security  of  life  and  property,  and  jirotcc- 
tion  in  the  lawful  pursuits  of  wealth  and  happiness.  Yet  it 
is  evident  from  her  vast  and  accumulating  debt,  that  there 
is  a  serious  defect  in  her  governmental  machinery;  a  defect 
which  must  some  day  extort  the  confession  that  the  jn-esent 
system  is  a  failure,  and  demand  a  fundamental  reformation. 

France,  in  her  numberless  rebellions  and  revolutions, 
gives  evidence  that,  heretofore,  she  has  possessed  no  form 
of  government  adequate  to  the  wants  of  her  citizens;  and  if 
we  may  judge  from  the  muttering  discontents  of  the  pre- 
sent, it  is  not  likely  that  the  government  of  Louis  Napoleon 
will  prove  cither  satisfactory  or  permanent.  The  question 
asked  by  one  of  her  modern  infidel  philosophers,  exjiresses 
an  idea  entertained  now  in  the  high  i>laccs  of  Franco :  "  If 
men  be  incapable  of  governing  themselves  as  individuals, 
how  can  they  govern  themselves  as  nations?"     It  is 


LIBEEIA. 


119 


scarcely  necessary  to  refer  to  Spain,  Portugal,  and  the  older 
kingdoms  and  states  of  Europe,  in  all  of  wluch  government 
is  effete,  and  statesmen  are  still  hopelessly  pursuing  the 
secret  of"  equitable  and  permanent  civil  government.  If, 
then,  according  to  European  statesmen  and  jihilosophers, 
the  capacity  of  man  for  self-government  is  not  yet  demon- 
strated in  Europe — we  Americans  are  merely  experiment- 
ing— is  the  problem  likely  to  be  solved  in  Africa  ? 

If  we  use  this  very  indefinite  expression,  "  capacity  for 
eelf-governmeut,"  in  a  sense  inferior  to  that  supposed  above, 
e.  g.  capacity  to  maintain  some  form  of  national  existence, 
in  which  jjrotection  to  life  and  property  is  secured,  and 
laws  arc  framed  and  administered  with  reference  to  the 
principles  of  common  justice,  avc  must  admit,  with  the  his- 
tory of  the  kingdoms  of  Ashantec  and  Dahomey  before  us, 
that  the  negro  is  capable  of  this — kingdoms,  by  the  way, 
ivhich,  if  we  could  add  to  them  a  few  of  the  princii^lcs  and 
arts  of  American  civilization,  especially  the  moral  principles 
of  the  Christian  religion,  woidd  compare  favorably  with 
many  of  the  kingdoms  of  Europe  in  the  protection  and 
privileges  secured  to  their  citizens.  Supposing,  however, 
that  Liberia  should,  in  the  course  of  time,  become  wealthy, 
powerful,  established,  how  M-ould  that  affect  the  relations 
of  the  black  man  in  the  South  ?  Not  at  all.  Southerners 
do  not  hold  slaves,  as  such,  because  they  believe  them  in- 
capable of  taking  care  of  themselves  ;  nor  because  skeptics 
have  assigned  to  the  black  man  an  origin  inferior  to  that  of 
the  white  man;  nor  yet  merely  because  tlio  relation  of 
master  and  slave  is  sanctioned  by  the  writers  of  the  Old 
and  Xew  Testaments.  The  ground  on  which  the  relation 
rests  is  tliat  oi  expediency.   The  present  relation  is  deemed 


120       PERSONAL  ADTENTUBES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  best  that  can  bo  adopted,  considering  the  interest  and 
happiness  of  all  the  parties,  concerned.  This  we  believe  to 
be  the  attitude  of  most  southern  men  relative  to  this  ques- 
tion, certainly  that  of  all  Christian  and  conservative  south- 
erners. In  view  of  these  facts,  then,  it  is  evident  that, 
while  the  conditions  of  the  South  remain  the  same,  no 
changes  or  demonstrations  from  without,  except  physical 
force,  can  affect  this  relation.  Sierre  Leone,  Monrovia, 
Loando,  Yoruba,  may  become  powerful  and  civilized  na- 
tions— we  sincerely  hope  they  may;  the  scientific  world 
may  become  one  on  the  question  of  man's  aboriginal  unity — 
we  think  it  will;  the  higher  law  sentiments  and  morbid 
humanity  of  certain  sections  may  prevail  in  a  large  portion 
of  the  Union,  though  it  is  scarcely  to  be  expected ;  yet, 
while  m  the  opinion  of  southerners  the  present  and  pro- 
si^ective  interests  of  the  South  demand  that  the  iircscnt 
relations  of  master  and  servant  shall  be  sustained,  southern 
slavery  will  be  unaffected  by  these  things.  Since,  however, 
this  institution  rests  on  expediency  alone,  it  is  not  perma- 
nent in  its  form,  but  will  continue  to  receive  such  changes 
and  modifications  as  the  internal  circumstances  of  the  South 
may  demand. 

The  other  arguments,  2>^'0  and  con,  used  by  the  agitators 
of  this  question,  serve  very  well  to  give  employment  to 
second-rate  politicians  South  and  bantling  pulpiteers  North ; 
and  whether  sustained  or  lost,  with  those  who  advocate 
them,  is  matter  of  small  importance. 

We  have  once  seen,  and  only  once,  where  this  question 
of  "capacity"  was  used  to  advantage.  In  1855,  one  of 
Georgia's  shrewdest  sons  was  called  on  to  address  an  assem- 
bly in  Boston  on  "the  all-absorbing  topic  of  slavery." 


LIBEKIA. 


121 


-Vmong  other  good  things,  he  told  the  house  that,  "  when 
ihe  negro  dearly  demonstrated  his  capacity  for  self-govern- 
ment, the  Soutli  would  doubtless  give  up  her  slaves."  The 
ladies  waved  their  cambrics  in  api^robation  of  the  liberal 
;  sentimeut,  the  good  natured  senator  laughed  in  his  sleeve, 
t  and  the  assembly  applauded  outright !    It  was  oil  on  the 
)  troubled  waters.    Not  so  at  the  South,  however.    A  few 
1   village  politicians  and  newspapers  thought  it  "a  ruinous  ad- 
mission," and  dischai-ged  the  thimder  of  their  fire-crackers 
at  the  head  of  the  honorable  gentleman.    We  here  submit 
to  the  reader  a  question  in  mensuration,  which  has  puzzled 
us  much :  Which  of  the  parties  have  the  longer  ears,  his 
applauders  Xorth  or  his  abusers  South  ? 

Having  disabused  our  minds  of  foolish  prejudices,  if  we 
ever  had  any,  we  are  prepared  to  take  a  sm'vey  of  Liberia 
and  its  people,  duly  estimating  the  evil  and  appreciating 
the  good. 

i  We  arc  ashore  and  without  wet  feet,  thanks  to  the  calm 
I  day  and  suiooth  sea  ;  and  without  being  dumped  fi-om  the 
1  shoulders  of  a  native.  We  pass  through  the  village  of  the 
1  Kroos,  remarking  that  their  square,  low  huts,  built  of  sticks 

and  mud,  and  thatched  with  grass,  are  as  dark  inside,  from 
'  Bmoke,  as  the  women  and  children  who  inhabit  them.  On 
the  little  phiin  beyond,  the  humble-bee  and  blue-bottle  arc 

ii  making  noontide  melodious,  as  they  sport  among  the  clus- 
tering wild  flowers,  to  us  strangers  and  nameless.  We 

i  ascend  the  trap-fonncd  ridge,  or  cape,  called  Cape  Mesu- 
rado,  and  reaching  the  highest  point,  which  is  the  site  of 

*  the  light-house,  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  parallel  streets 
and  green  squares  of  Monrovia.    Here  there  are  no  bro\<*n- 

j   8tonc  front-!,  marbled  colonnades,  gilded  domes,  or  sky- 


122       PEKSOXAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


piercing  spires.  The  two  or  three  hundred  buildings  of  the 
city  are  Avithout  ornament  and  pretensionless ;  and  if  not 
always  neat,  are  perhaps  generally  comfortable.  This,  how- 
ever, is  not  the  character  of  all  the  houses.  The  presiden- 
tial mansion,  the  residences  of  Dr.  Roberts,  Mr.  McGill, 
Dr.  McGill,  Hon.  Mr.  Roy,  and  several  others,  are  substan- 
tial buildings  of  stone  or  brick,  which  are  tasty  in  appear- 
ance, and  even  luxurious  in  furniture.  The  Methodist, 
Baptist,  and  Presbyterian  churches,  are  neat  and  commodi- 
ous houses,  and  other  public  buildings  are  of  a  size  and 
taste  scarcely  to  be  ex23ected  in  so  young  a  capital.  The 
neatly  painted  white  cottages,  in  the  style  of  the  southern 
States,  look  a  little  out  of  place  in  their  surroundings  of 
banana  and  orange,  yet  they  are  no  doubt  cool  and  com- 
fortable to  the  occupants.  We  have  called  on  the  notables 
of  the  church  and  state,  but  we  must  reserve  our  sketches 
of  them  for  another  place. 


CHAPTER  X. 


LIBERIA — COXTLNTED. 

American  Colonization  Society — Origin  of  Liberia — Jefferson's  Opinion 
of  the  effects  of  Colonization  on  Africa — Delegation  sent  to  Africa — 
Settlement  on  Sherbro  Island — Settlement  of  Perseverance — Settle- 
ment on  Cape  Mesurado — Wars  ■with  the  Natives — A  National  Festival 
— Independence  Declared — President  Roberts — President  Benson — 
Territory  and  population  of  Liberia. 

To  the  American  Colonization  Society  belongs  the  honor 
f  establishuig  in  Western  Africa  the  second  community 
of  civilized  and  Christianized  people.  Liberia  was  planted 
and  nourished  by  this  organization,  until  she  expressed  her 
desire  to  be  independent,  and  declared  herself  capable  of 
providing  for  her  own  -wants.  From  that  time  to  the 
present,  the  Society  has  acted  the  part  of  a  watchful 
mother,  counselling,  assisting,  restraming  and  furnishing, 
often  by  an  unseen  hand,  those  assistances  without  which 
her  precocious  child  might  not  have  been  able  to  stand. 
Difference  of  opinion  will  exist  as  to  the  expediency  of 
some  of  the  measures  of  this  Society,  for  blunders  and 
miscarriages  arc  inseparable  from  human  organizations, 
but  the  purity  of  her  motives  is  too  manifest  to  be 
questioned,  and  we  trust  that  hers  (in  reserve)  is  the 
honor  of  being  called  the  mother  of  nations. 

The  subject  of  providing  the  freed  blacks  of  America 
with  a  home  in  Africa,  the  West  Indies,  or  on  our  own 
Bouthwcstern  frontier,  was  first  agitated  in  this  country 

128 


124        PERSONAL  ABVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


by  Thomas  JefFersou,  and  as  early  as  1770.  In  1800, 
the  General  Assembly  of  Virginia  passed  a  resolution 
on  the  subject;  and  at  the  two  succeeding  sessions,  1802 
and  1804,  ^^assed  others,  which  expressed  the  idea  that^ 
it  was  the  duty  of  the  General  Government  to  provide 
for  the  free  colored  population  of  our  country  a  home 
somewhere  beyond  the  limits  of  the  United  States. 
Jefferson  and  Monroe  were  warm  advocates  of  this  cause, 
and  directed  public  attention  to  Africa  as  the  natural 
home  of  the  black  man.  Jefferson,  writing  from  Monticello, 
in  1811,  says: 

"  I  have  long  ago  made  uji  my  mind  that  this  is  the 
best  measure  for  drawing  off  this  part  of  our  population. 
.  .  .  Gomg  from  a  country  jjossessing  all  the  useful  arts, 
they  might  be  the  means  of  transplanting  them  to  Africa." 

In  1810,  the  General  Assembly  of  Virginia  again  passed 
resolutions  on  the  subject,  and  instructed  the  executive 
"to  correspond  with  the  President,  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  a  territory  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  in  Tvhich 
to  colonize  the  free  blacks  of  the  commonwealth."  In 
the  meantime  the  subject  was  growing  in  importance, 
and  attracting  attention  in  other  parts  of  the  Union. 
The  law  of  Congress  of  1807,  prohibiting  the  slave- 
trade,  was  producing  effect  in  increasing  the  free  colored 
population  of  the  States  willi  the  cargoes  of  captured 
slaves.  This  gave  urgency  and  jioint  to  the  subject  of 
colonization ;  but  strange  to  say,  the  General  Government 
could  not  be  prevailed  on  to  take  any  step  in  tlie  matter, 
and  to  this  day  it  stands  timidly  aloof. 

Seeing  that  there  was  nothing  to  be  hoi)ed  for  from  Con- 
gress, Christians  and  patriots  took  the  matter  in  hand.  A 


LIBEEIA. 


125 


meeting  was  called  in  Washington,  in  Decembei',  1846. 
Henry  Clay  was  appointed  president,  Andrew  Jackson. 
Hon.  "Wm.  H.  Crawford,  of  Georgia,  Rev.  Dr.  Finley,  of 
New  Jersey,  and  others,  vice-presidents  ;  and  a  committee 
was  appointed  to  draft  a  constitution  and  nominate  otEcers. 
(  The  Colonization  Society  was  formed  in  the  course  of  the 
i   following  month,  under  the  title   of :   "  The  American 
I   Society  for  colonizing  the  free  people  of  color  of  the 
I   United  States,"  and  on  a  basis  at  once  Christian  and  national, 
j    A  delegation  was  subsequently  appointed,  composed  of 
Rev.  S.  J.  Jlills  and  Rev.  Ebenezer  Burges,  to  visit  the 
west  coast  of  Africa,  for  the  purpose  of  seeking  a  suitable 
location  for  a  colony.    They  sailed  in  November,  1817, 
and,  reaching  Sierra  Leone  by  way  of  England,  explored 
the  coast  as  far  south  as  Sherbro  Island.    Satisfied  that  this 
island,  and  the  main  in  its  vicinity,  afforded  peculiar 
advantages  for  the  establishment  of  a  colony,  they  drew  np 
a  report  to  that  effect,  which  was  presented  to  the  society 
by  Burges,  Mr.  Mills  having  died  on  the  passage  homeward. 

In  1810,  "Wm.  n.  Crawford,  of  Georgia,  procured  the 
passage  of  an  act  in  Congress,  by  which  the  society  has 
been  justly  relieved  of  the  burden  of  sending  out  and 
supporting  the  slaves  taken  from  slave-ships  by  American 
.ncn-of-war.  By  jirovision  of  this  act,  tlie  President  is 
authorized  to  restore  to  their  own  country  any  Africans 
captured  from  American  or  foreign  vessels;  to  provide 
a  suitable  agency  on  the  African  coast  for  the  reception  of 
such  persons,  and  for  their  subsistence  and  comfort  tht-re, 
until  they  shall  have  opportunity  of  returning  to  their  own 
tribes,  cr  become  capable  of  supporting  themselves. 

In  February,  1820,  the  first  comi)any  of  emigrants,  com- 


126      PEESo^^AL  advextuees  and  oeseevatioxs. 


posed  of  eighty-six  colored  persons,  sailed  for  Sherbro 
Island.  They  were  accompanied  by  three  Tvhites,  Rev. 
Samuel  Bacon,  agent  for  the  TJnited  States  and  colonial 
governor,  John  P.  Bankson  and  Samuel  A.  Crozer,  physician. 
The  island  proved  imhealthy.  African  fever  made  its 
appearance,  and  Mr.  Bacon  and  twenty-five  of  the  emigrants 
died  ■w  ithin  a  few  months.  The  remainder,  sick  and  dispi- 
rited, went  to  Sierra  Leone.  The  Society,  disappointed, 
but  not  discouraged,  put  forth  new  zeal.  In  1821,  another 
company  of  emigrants,  numbei-ing  thirty-three  colored  and 
four  white  persons,  was  sent  out  from  Xorfolk,  Va.,  and 
joined  the  survivors  of  the  fii-st  party  at  Sierra  Leone, 
where  they  all  were  to  remain,  until  a  home  was  secured  for 
them  elsewhere.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  same  year,  Lieut. 
R.  F.  Stockton  arrived  at  Sierra  Leone  in  the  United  States 
schooner  Alligator,  with  orders  from  the  Secretary  of  the 
Xa-s-y  to  cooperate  with  Dr.  Ayres,  the  government  and 
colonial  agent,  in  procuring  a  suitable  home  for  the  emigrants. 
Reaching  Cape  Mesurado,  lat.  6°  19'  X.,  long.  10°  48'  "W., 
Lieut.  Stockton  and  Dr.  Ayres  were  so  pleased  with  the 
appearance  of  the  country  in  that  vicinity,  the  bold 
promontory,  the  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  the  number  of 
the  streams,  that  they  deteiinined  at  once  to  make  the  cape 
the  cite  of  the  colony.  They  landed,  and  taking  a  demi- 
john of  whisky  (Stockton's  peacemaker — No.  2)  and  a  few 
plugs  of  tobacco,  to  show  their  peaceful  intentions,  and  t  ■ 
assist  in  negotiating,  sent  for  King  Peter,  chief  of  the  Dcy 
tribe,  who  claimed  authority  over  that  part  of  the  coast. 
Several  palavers  were  held,  which  resulted  in  the  purchase 
of  a  tract  of  land,  thirty-sLx  miles  along  shore  and  two  miles 
wide — including  the  Cape  Mesurado. 


LIBEEIA. 


127 


To  this  point  the  Americo-African  emigrants  were  re- 
moved from  Sierra  Leone  in  February,  1822.  For  a  short 
time  they  remained  on  a  small  island,  which  they  called 
Perseverance,  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mesurado  River.  In 
April,  they  established  themselves  on  the  cape,  and  on  the 
25th  of  that  month,  the  American  flag  was  hoisted  on  the 
summit  of  Mesurado. 

In  August  of  the  same  year,  Mr.  Ashmun,  the  newly 
appointed  governor,  arrived  with  a  company  of  thirty- 
seven  emigrants.  He  found  the  infant  colony  in  a  most 
unsettled  state,  and  threatened  with  destruction  by  the 
surrounding  natives,  who  had  already  repented  of  their 
bargain.  He  found  but  thirty-five  of  the  colonists  capable 
of  bearing  arms ;  and  the  only  weapons  in  their  possession 
were  a  few  old  muskets,  two  or  three  iron  guns  of  small 
calibre,  a  long  nine,  and  a  field-piece  Avell  mounted.  His 
first  care  was  to  drill  the  men  in  the  use  of  these ; 
and  scarcely  had  he  accomplished  his  task  when  the 
natives  commenced,  as  they  avowed,  a  war  of  extermina- 
tion. 

On  the  11th  of  Xovember  an  attack  was  made  by  eight 
hundred  native  warriors.  The  colonists  fought  witli  the 
desperation  which  the  pi'ospect  of  immediate  destruction  to 
themselves  and  families  inspired  ;  and  after  an  engagement 
of  two  hours,  the  natives  were  driven  back  with  the  loss  of 
at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  men.  The  loss  of  the  emigrants, 
killed  and  wounded,  was  fifteen,  besides  a  few  children 
carried  off  by  tlie  natives.  Fearing  another  attack,  tho 
colonists  set  to  work,  preparing  fortifications  and  planting 
their  guns;  and  scarcely  had  they  completed  their  work 
when  their  worst  fears  were  realized.    On  the  morning  of 


128        PERSONAL  ADVENTUKE3  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

r 

December  2cl,  the  Deys,  reinforced  by  himdrecls  of  Golahs, 
and  exasperated  by  the  jirevious  defeat,  came  rushing  on 
to  the  fortifications,  and,  Avith  a  Aviid  shout,  commenced  at 
once  at  attack  on  three  sides  of  the  defence.  The  colonists 
were  prej^ared  for  them ;  they  had  the  advantage  of  tlie 
ground;  and  the  heavy  charges  of  their  guns  told  with 
fearfid  effect  on  the  thick  ranks  of  the  enemy.  It  was  again 
a  struggle  for  dear  life ;  they  stood  firmly  to  their  posts, 
even  when  wounded,  promjrtly  obeying  the  orders  of  Mr, 
Ashmun,  Every  shot  from  the  field-piece,  the  long  nine 
and  the  other  cannon,  ploughed  wide  furrows  of  death 
among  the  natives,  and  soon  the  savages,  confused  by  the 
deadly  fire,  and  fearing  to  enter  the  defence,  raised  a  wild 
shout  of  despair,  and  made  a  hasty  retreat  tlirough  the 
blood-stained  pahns.  Thus,  by  an  exhibition  of  more  than 
Spartan  valor,  the  colonists  remained,  and  still  continue  to 
be,  the  acknowledged  masters  of  the  natives.  The 
neighboring  kings  came  in,  and  signed  a  treaty  of  peace 
drawn  up  by  Mr.  Ashmim,  agreeing  to  refer  all  their 
disjjutes  with  the  colonists  to  the  governor  of  Sierra 
Leone. 

Occasionally,  suice  that  time,  the  '^^ Americans  have 
found  it  necessary  to  chastise  some  of  the  neighboring 
tribes,  and  to  keep  alive  the  respect  due  to  their  miUtary 
superiority ;  but  the  engagement  of  the  2d  December  was 
the  decisive  battle,  and  the  day  is  still  celebrated  with  much 
enthusiasm  by  the  people  of  Liberia.  I  Avas  present  at  the 
celebration  of  this  festival  in  1856.  Every  house  and  hut  in 
Monrovia  displayed  a  Hag ;  guns  were  fired,  bells  rang, 
volunteers  paraded  the  streets  in  neat  uniform  and  tolerable 
discipline,  orations  were  delivered  at  the  Methodist  church, 


LIBERIA. 


129 


which  seems  to  be  the  popular  establishment  of  the  town, 
and  very  appropriate  prayers  -were  made,  and  songs  sung 
by  the  choir  to  most  excellent  music. 

I  walked  with  a  friend  to  the  site  of  the  old  fortification, 
about  which  the  faitliful  old  guns  are  now  rusting,  and — 
remembering  that,  had  the  first  attack  of  the  natives  been 
made  a  few  weeks  earUer,  they  would  have  found  the  emi- 
gi'ants  xmdrilled ;  and  that,  had  the  second  attack  been  con- 
tinued a  few  minutes  longer,  three  rounds  more  Avould  have 
exhausted  the  magazine  of  the  fortification — I  clearly  saw 
the  Divine  interposition  m  their  behalf,  and  came  away  con- 
vinced that  God  has  a  mission  for  this  people  to  fulfill,  and 
that  they  will  be  invincible  until  it  is  accomplished. 

Discouragements  of  another  character  now  foU  on  the 
colony.  The  rainy  season  came  on  and  foimd  them  without 
suitable  shelter ;  the  supplies  fm-nished  by  the  Society  were 
fast  running  out,  and  their  lands  were  still  without  seed. 
There  was  no  trade  ;  and  sickness  began  to  Avaste  the  num- 
ber and  the  spirits  of  the  people.  These  evils  were  in  tune 
partially  relieved  by  the  Society,  and  the  population  con- 
tinued to  increase  by  accessions  from  the  States.  Ashmun 
and  his  successor.  Lot  Cary,  died  in  1828.  Gary  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Dr.  Randall,  under  whose  administration  the 
prospects  of  the  colony  brightened,  trade  increased,  and 
agriculture  made  some  advance  ;  but  his  health  soon  failed, 
and  he  returned  to  tlie  States. 

Dr.  Mechlin  succeeded  him  as  governor,  and  agent  of 
tiie  United  States.  During  his  administrations  many  emi- 
grants arrived,  and  tlie  territory  -was  enlarged  by  the  pur- 
chase of  a  rich  tract  on  the  St.  Jolm's  River.  He  returned 
home  in  ill  health  in  1833.  Rev.  J.  B.  Pmney  succeeded  liim, 

0* 


130       PEKSONAI.  ADTEXTrKES  AND  0BSEEVATI0X8. 

and  continued  in  oflBce  untU  his  health  failed  in  1835.  A  new 
settlement  called  Bassa  Cove,  was  established  during  his 
administration,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Colonization  Society.  In  1834  an  independent  colony  was 
established  on  Cape  Pahnas  under  the  ausjiices  of  the  Mary- 
land Colonization  Society,  which  was  not  auxiliary  to  the 
American  or  parent  Society.  This  colony  continued  to 
increase,  and  remained  independent  of  Liberia  until  1857. 
Pinney  was  succeeded  by  Dr.  Skinner. 

In  1836,  the  settlement  of  Marshall  was  established,  and 
another  tract  of  land  was  purchased  on  the  Sinou  River,  and 
a  settlement,  taking  its  name  from  the  river,  established  by 
the  Mississippi  Colonization  Society.  In  September  of  this 
year  Dr.  Skmner's  health  failed,  and  he  retunied  to  the 
States.  He  was  followed  in  office  by  Thomas  Buchanan, 
who  continued  to  direct  the  operations  of  the  colony  with 
much  success  imtil  his  death,  which  occurred  in  September, 
1841.  The  Society  now  conferred  the  appointment  of  go- 
vernor on  a  colored  man,  originally  from  Virginia,  Joseph 
J.  Roberts.  He  had  acted  as  lieutenant-goveraor  under 
Mr.  Buchanan,  and  displayed  a  prudence  and  talent  in  this 
relation  Avhich  commended  him  to  the  confidence  of  the 
Society.  He  filled  this  office  with  honor  to  himself  and 
profit  to  his  people,  and  he  kept  alive  the  growing  enter- 
prise and  industry  which  had  been  developed  under  the 
administration  of  his  predecessor. 

In  July,  1847,  a  convention  of  delegates,  elected  by  the 
colonists,  met  in  Monrovia  and  foraied  a  constitution  on 
the  model  of  our  own,  an  outline  of  which  was  prepared 
for  them  by  distinguished  jurists  of  the  United  States. 
This,  with  a  Declaration  of  Independence,  was  adopted  by 


LIBERIA. 


131 


the  people.  Gov.  Roberts  was  elected  President,  was  duly 
inaugurated  on  the  3d  of  January,  1848,  and  by  reelection 
continued  to  fill  that  ofiice,  with  accejJtability  to  the  people 
and  the  friends  of  Liberia,  until  January,  185G.  Liberia 
included  at  the  time  of  the  declaration  all  the  settlements 
established  by  the  American  or  other  Colonization  Societies, 
except  that  of  the  Maryland  Society,  called  Maryland  in 
Liberia.  The  Americo-African  population  included  in  the 
republic  when  first  organized  may  be  estimated  at  five  thou- 
sand. The  natives  in  the  territory,  who  consented  to  be- 
come subject  to  the  laws  of  the  rejDublic,  were  over  one 
hundred  thousand.  The  independence  of  Liberia  was 
speedily  acknowledged  by  England,  France,  Russia,  Bel- 
gium, Brazil,  and  other  kingdoms.  Treaties  have  been 
formed  with  her,  recognizing  her  national  equality,  Eng- 
land presented  her  with  an  armed  vessel,  France  with  some 
other  munitions  of  war,  and  she  continues  to  receive  aid  and 
sympathy  from  abroad. 

The  Gallinas  teiTitory  was  added  by  purchase  in  1848,  and 
the  Cassa  territory  in  1852,  As  a  president,  Roberts 
showed  himself  an  able  statesman  ;  as  a  soldier,  command- 
ing in  person  in  the  wars  with  native  princes,  an  able 
general ;  and  in  settling  the  disputes  of  the  tribes  in  the 
territory  of  the  republic,  he  appears  as  a  wise  and  an  impar- 
tial judge.  Stephen  Allen  Benson  was  installed  Jan,  3d, 
1856;  he  is  by  reiilection  still  in  the  presidency — a  man  of 
clear  judgment,  liberal  views,  and  great  firmness.  His 
adniiuislratioM  lias  been  marked  by  the  admission  of  Mary- 
land into  the  republic. 

The  political  jurisdiction  of  Liberia  extends  at  present 


132        PEKSONAIi  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

from  the  Shebar  River  on  the  north,  to  San  Pedro  River  on 
the  south,  a  distance  along  the  coast  of  over  600  miles, 
embracing  a  country  of  30,000  square  miles,  and  a 
poioulation  of  over  10,000  civilized  blacks,  and  200,000 
natives. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


LIBERIA — CONTIXXJED, 

Constitution  of  Liberia — Legislature — President — No  Rotation  in  Office 
— The  Family  Mark — Revenue  and  Expenditures — Future  Possibilities 
and  Probabilities — Conditions  of  Existence — Is  Liberia  Independent — 
Churches  and  Schools — A  very  Anti-repubhcan  Conclusion — Our  Duty 
toward  Liberia. 

The  Constitution  of  Liberia,  as  already  stated,  was  modelled 
after  our  own,  but  the  republic  differs  from  ours  in  this, 
that  it  is  comi^oscd  of  but  one  State,  and  has  but  one  legis- 
lature. Discordant  elements  are  gradually  developing  in 
the  body  politic.  The  savage  and  the  civilized  Liberians 
have  but  few  ideas  in  common,  and  contempt  on  one  part, 
and  envy  on  the  other,  have  weakened  the  bonds  of  these  ; 
the  question  of  color — black  or  yellow — is  gradually  indi- 
cating its  existence ;  and  judging  from  its  chai-acter  in 
Hayti,  it  is  a  question  tenacious  of  life,  and  regardless  of 
the  most  sacred  ties.  Nativism,  as  practically  opposed  \o 
the  rights  of  foreign  born  blacks  to  hold  offices  of  honor  or 
profit,  is  in  process  of  incubation  ;  and  abolitionism  is  there 
sowing  m.iny  seeds  of  strife. 

In  view  of  these  facts,  it  is  an  advantage  that  there  is  but 
one  State  rather  than  many,  each  claiming  State-right  privi- 
leges, and  that  the  laws  in  every  department  of  government 
are  the  saiue  throughout  tlic  rci)ublic.  Wo  doubt  not  but 
in  this  unity  the  nation  will  find  strcngtli  and  safety,  when 


13i       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


those  questions  shall  arise  which  might  dissever  a  republic 
of  independent  States. 

The  Constitution  recognizes  and  provides  for  the  main- 
tenance of  the  following  principles  : 

1.  All  men  are  born  equally  free  in  the  right  of  enjoying 
and  defending  life,  liberty,  and  the  pursuit  of  happiness. 

2.  All  power  of  government  is  inherent  in  the  people. 

3.  All  men  have  a  natural  right  to  worship  God  accord- 
ing to  the  dictates  of  their  own  consciences. 

4.  Slavery  shall  not  exist  in  the  Republic  of  Liberia,  or 
be  countenanced  by  any  of  its  citizens. 

5.  All  elections  shall  be  by  ballot,  and  every  male  citizen 
possessing  real  estate  shall  have  the  right  of  sufirage. 

6.  The  liberty  of  the  press  shall  not  be  restrained  in  the 
republic. 

7.  None  but  citizens  may  hold  real  estate  in  the  republic: 
nevertheless,  this  article  shall  not  be  construed  to  apj^ly  to 
Colonization,  Missionary,  Educational,  or  other  benevolent 
institutions,  so  long  as  the  property  or  estate  is  applied  to 
its  legitimate  purposes. 

8.  None  but  persons  of  color  shall  be  admitted  to  citizen- 
ship in  the  rei^ublic. 

^.  The  improvement  of  the  native  tribes  in  the  arts  of 
agriculture,  shall  be  furthered  by  the  .President,  and  the 
legislature  shall  appropriate  money  for  this  purpose. 

10.  The  legislature  shall  make  no  law  prohibiting  emigra- 
tion. 

Emigrants  of  twenty-one  years  of  agJ^  who  claim  to  be 
of  Afiican  extraction,  are  entitled  to  all  the  privileges  of 
citizenship  when  they  become  possessed  of  real  estate,  and 
avow  their  intention  of  becoming  permanent  residents  of 


LIBERIA. 


135 


the  country,  and  assume  obligations  of  fealty.  We  are  free 
to  confess  the  belief  that  this  is  the  -wisest  and  safest  system 
of  naturalization  that  the  world  has  ever  seen.  Several  dis- 
tinguished senators  informed  us  that  the  law  excluding 
white  persons  from  the  right  of  citizenship  is  intended  to  be 
of  but  temporary  duration. 

The  legislative  body  of  the  republic  is  styled  "The  Legis- 
lature of  Liberia,"  and  is  composed  of  two  branches,  a  Sen- 
ate and  a  House  of  Representatives.  Each  county  is 
entitled  to  two  senators,  who  are  elected  for  a  term  of  four 
years.  Representatives  are  elected  biennially.  Every 
county  Ls  entitled  to  one  representative,  and  an  additional 
one  for  every  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  President  is 
elected  by  the  people,  and  for  a  term  of  two  years.  He  is 
the  supreme  executive  officer  of  the  government,  and  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  army  and  navy. 

With  the  consent  of  the  Senate,  he  appoints  the  Secre- 
taries of  War,  the  Navy,  Treasury,  and  the  State;  the 
Postmaster  General,  Attorney  General,  the  judges  of  all 
courts  judicatory,  and  all  foreign  ministers,  and  many  other 
officers  civil  and  military.  These  all  hold  their  offices  dur- 
ing the  pleasure  of  the  I'rcsident.  Qualifications  and  good 
behavior  are  the  only  tests  for  continuation  in  these  offices. 
May  the  curse  of  rotation  never  fall  upon  them  ! 

Tiie  judicial  power  is  vested  in  one  Supreme  Court  and 
several  subordinate  courts,  nearly  corresponding  to  our 
justice  and  superior  courts.  The  judges  of  these  have 
salaries  established  by  law,  and  are  allowed  to  receive  no 
jjcrquisites  xmdcr  penalty  of  impeachment. 

Thus  far  the  government  seems  to  have  worked  well.  It 
has  extended  protection  in  life  and  property  to  its  subjects, 


136       I'ERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


and  the  equitable  administratiou  of  law.  The  revenue,  de- 
rived chiefly  from  a  moderate  tarilF  on  imports,  has  been 
sulEcient  to  meet  the  expenses  of  the  government,  and 
should  the  increase  of  trade  keej)  pace  with  the  increase  of 
population,  as  it  has  done  up  to  the  present,  the  greater 
wants  of  the  State  will  he  met  by  this  indirect  tax.  In 
185  7  the  receipts  and  disbursements  were  as  follows :  re- 
ceipts, $47,556  ;  disbursements,  $47,048.  Compared  with 
the  preceding  year,  the  receipts  show  an  increase  of  near 
$5,000. 

Liberia  came  Into  the  fomily  of  nations  with  a  national 
debt  on  her  head,  a  family  mark  which  should  entitle  her 
to  the  sympathy  and  fi'aternity  of  the  republics  and  king- 
doms of  the  present  century. 

This  she  has  in  common  with  the  proudest  and  freest ; 
but  fortunately  for  her  and  her  creditors,  the  debt  is  not 
largo,  and  not  more  than  ten  thousand  dollars  of  it  is  owed 
to  foreigners. 

According  to  the  revenue  and  expenses,  as  given  above, 
it  ai)pears  that  there  is  a  surplus  in  the  treasiiry  of  five  hun- 
dred dollars;  but  truth  demands  the  statement,  that  many 
of  the  government  officials,  noble  and  patriotic  men,  have 
deferred  drawing  the  full  amount  of  their  salaries,  small  as 
these  are,  until  the  country  is  more  able  to  pay  them.  To 
meet  tliese  demands,  pay  the  interest  on  her  debts,  and 
carry  on  the  operations  of  government,  would  leave  the 
country  still  more  deeply  in  debt.  To  this  also  must  be 
added  the  fact,  that  thus  for  the  republic  has  sailed  in 
smooth  water.  True,  the  militia  has,  in  a  few  instances, 
been  called  out  to  defend  hiterior  settlements  against  the 
encroachments  of  natives,  and  one  of  these  wars,  that  of 


LIBERIA. 


137 


Sinou,  cost  the  government  several  thousand  dollars ;  but 
she  has  had  no  occasion  for  a  standing  army,  or  a  navy,  or 
even  a  strong  police.  She  has  been  at  j^eace  fl'ith  the  "world 
without,  her  trade  has  been  equal  to  her  ability  to  supply 
I  produce,  and  her  tariff  as  heavy  as  her  commerce  Avill  admit 
and  as  is  consistent  with  her  prosperity. 

As  a  nation,  she  is  in  a  defenceless  condition.  Her  ex- 
tensive sea-coast  is  ^vithout  forts  or  other  defences ;  she  has 
no  navy  worth  mentioning,  nor  the  means  of  supplying  one, 
and,  therefore,  a  war  with  the  most  insignificant  of  the  civil 
powers  of  the  world  would  result  in  her  humiliation.  She 
has,  and  justly  claims,  rank  and  right  among  tlie  civilized 
(  nations,  yet  she  has  no  power  to  maintain  either ;  and  to 
expect  that  these  will  be  always  duly  respected  and  ac- 
corded, is  expecting  too  much  from  human  nature. 

At  present,  her  people  are  patriotic  and  obedient  to  law, 
and,  therefore,  the  executive  is  at  neither  trouble  nor  ex- 
pense to  enforce  law  and  maintain  its  dignity ;  but  to  hope 
that  this  will  continue  to  l)e  the  case  without  interruption, 
is  hoping  against  the  experience  of  republics.  Separated 
from  the  severe  struggles  to  form  and  maintain  a  national 
existence,  which  so  attached  the  hearts  of  the  founders  of 
the  goveniraent  to  the  institutions  and  laws  of  their  own 
creation,  the  next  generation  will  likely  be  less  loyal  and 
self-sacriHeiug.  Ambitious  men  will  rise  up,  and  attempts 
at  revolution  and  dismemberment  are  to  be  expected. 

The  two  hundred  thousand  savages  within  her  bounds 
are  to  be  brought  into  tho  body  politic,  and  to  presume 
tli.at  they  will  not  bruig  with  them  much  of  the  ignorance 
and  depravity  of  tl>c  barbaric  state,  is  to  presume  without 
authority  of  history  or  philosoi)hy  ;  and  troubles  are  to  be 


138       PEESONAL  ADVENTTJEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


expected  from  this  source  "wliicli  will  demand  for  their  ar- 
rest great  strength  in  the  executive  arm.  A  consideration 
of  these  facts  -will  lead  to  the  conclusion,  that  the  condition 
and  prospects  of  Liberia,  as  a  nation,  are  not  what  her  too 
sanguine  friends  have  supposed,  nor  what  any  of  her  friends 
desire  ;  yet,  perhaps,  quite  as  good  as  reasonable  men  should 
expect.  The  continuance  of  her  existence  rests  on  two  con- 
ditions :  peace  in  her  relations  without,  obedience  to  law 
within.  To  secure  the  former  she  must  be  blind  to  petty 
insults  and  injuries,  humble,  yet  honorable ;  to  secure 
the  latter,  she  must  be  diligent  in  furthering  religion 
and  education,  and  slow  in  incorporating  the  savage 
element. 

Liberia  claims  to  be  independent,  and  there  is  a  technical 
sense  in  which,  as  a  government,  she  is  so,  and  as  a  govern- 
ment that  independence  should  be  acknowledged  by  all 
honorable  nations  ;  but  there  is  a  wider  and  a  higher  sense 
in  which  she  is  not  independent.  Can  that  nation  be  said 
to  be  self-supporting,  and  self-governing,  Avhich  is  dependent 
on  another  for  the  supply  of  educational  and  religious  insti- 
tutions, those  foundations  on  which  the  social  and  civil 
framework  of  republics  must  stand,  if  they  stand  at  all  ? 
Liberia  is  almost  entirely  dependent  in  these  respects. 
Her  schools  and  churches  are  supported  by  the  benevolence 
of  American  Christians. 

It  is  perhai)s  2>lacing  too  low  an  csiimate  on  the  actual 
outlay,  to  say  that  fifty  thousand  dollars  are  spent, 
annually,  in  Liberia,  by  foreign  societies,  in  the  support  of 
educational  and  religious  establishments.  And  yet,  these 
are  not  adequate  to  the  present  demands  ;  certainly  inade- 
quate, in  view  of  the  mission  of  civilization  and  religion 


LIBERIA. 


139 


■which  we  hojDe  to  see  accomplished  in  Africa,  through  her 

'  '^triimentality. 
The  Metliodist  Episcopal,  Baptist,  Presbyterian,  and 

Episcopal  churches  of  America  are  doing  a  noble  Avork  in 
!  Liberia.  They  arc  furnishing  the  moi'al  strength  on  which 
ij  the  goveinment  must  rely  in  exigencies  of  the  future,  and 


•  by  which  she  is  to  be  established,  if  established  she 
may  be. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  and  addressing  the 
Methodist  Conference  of  Liberia  at  Moni-ovia  in  the  winter 
of  1856  and  1857.  This  is  a  body  of  intelligent  and  devoted 
men,  numbering  twenty-five  itinerants,  and  having  in  com- 

!  munion  with  tlie  church  over  thirteen  hundred  members, 
many  of  wliom  are  natives.  Tlieir  schools  are  numerous 
and  flourisliing.  It  is  a  mission  conference,  supported  by 
the  M.  E.  church  of  the  northern  States  at  an  annual  cost 
of  $25,000.    The  Baptist  church  is  represented  here  by  over 

'  seventy  missionaries  and  teachers,  and,  according  to  the 
report  of  the  Association  which  met  in  Monrovia,  Decem- 
ber, 1857,  near  one  thousand  members.  The  Episcopal 
church  has  a  bishop,  four  white  missionaries,  and  eight 
colored,  three  of  wlioin  are  natives.  Teacliers,  30 ;  twelve 
of  whom  are  natives.  Day-school  scholars,  550 ;  350 
natives.  Communicants,  250  ;  more  than  half  of  whom  are 
natives.  Their  most  important  station  is  at  Cavalla,  near 
Cape  Pahnas.  Tlio  Pj'esbytiMian  oliurdi  has,  wliite  mis- 
sionaries, 2;  coloroJ,  4.  Teaciiers,  12;  one  high  sclioo!  ; 
five  day-schools ;  150  scholars.  Communicants,  180.  Most 
of  the  missionaries  of  the  Ej)iscopal  church  arc  from  the 
South ;  one  of  the  two  white  Presbyterian  missionaries  is 
from  Georgia  ;  and  the  Southern  Baptist  Board  supports  a 


140        PEESOXAL  ADTENTURES  A]SrD  OESEEVATIONS. 


high  school  ia  Monrovia.  Where  are  the  representatives 
of  the  Methodist  church,  South  ?  Shame  to  her  that  she 
has  permitted  hundreds  of  her  members  to  leave  her  shores 
without  pastor  or  teacher,  to  be  lost  in  the  wilderness  or 
gathered  into  strange  folds  !  Inverted  were  the  telescopes, 
and  filmed  the  eyes  of  the  missionary  committee  of  the  late 
General  Conference,  when  they  could  see  in  Africa  "no 
opening"  for  a  southern  missionary. 

Studying  the  facts  contained  in  this  chapter,  and  influ- 
enced by  a  careful  and  candid  observation  of  Liberia  and 
her  2)eople,  we  were  led  to  the  following  conclusions  : 

First :  The  organization  of  the  Independent  Government 
was  premature.  We  do  not  say  whether  this  resulted  from 
the  ambition  of  the  people  to  he  free — the  too  sanguine 
hopes  of  the  friends  of  colonization — or  a  necessity,  growing 
out  of  the  unjustly-withheld  jirotection  of  the  American 
government.  Satisfied  we  are,  however,  that  the  name  of 
being  independent  without  the  sobering  costs  of  the  reality, 
has  developed  a  pride  in  the  people  which  may  some  day 
result  in  an  insolence  that  will  turn  away  the  love  of  their 
friends,  and  bring  upon  them  swift  destruction  from  their 
enemies.  She  is  yet  in  reality  but  a  colony,  and  fit  for 
nothing  higher.  Second :  A  republican  form  of  govern- 
ment is  not  the  best  for  a  people  such  as  com^^ose  the  State 
of  Liberia — shades  of  1776  grant  us  a  moment's  grace! — for 
this  form  of  government,  above  every  other,  demands  intel- 
ligence, virtue,  and  moderation  in  its  citizens.  But,  how- 
ever this  may  be,  our  duty  as  a  Christian  nation  toward  lier 
is  clear.  Far  be  it  from  us  to  witness  with  cold-blooded 
indifference  the  struggles  of  those  who  have  gone  out  from 
us  with  barbarism  and  ignorance.    If  Liberia  is  a  weak  and 


LIBKEIA. 


141 


myopic  child,  it  is  not  ours  to  look  calmly  upon  her 
attempts  to  walk  alone,  guessing  cruelly  as  to  the  chances 
of  her  making  a  safe  joui-ney;  but  it  is  ours  by  kind  words 
to  encourage  her  heart,  and  to  lead  her  by  tlie  hand  until 
age  shall  bring  strength  to  her  feet,  and  clearness  to  her 
vision. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

LIBEKIA  CONTINUED. 


Climate  of  Liberia — Seasons — Winds — Rains — Temperature — Cause  of 
TJnliealthiness — African  Fever — Physicians — Ko  Acclimation  for  the 
White  Man — Average  Length  of  Missionary  Life — Soil  of  Liberia — 
Productions —  Timbers — Grains — Fruits— Vegetables.  Animals — Do- 
mestic and  Wild — Useful  Ants — A  Wish — Necessity  for  Labor,  etc. 

The  climate  of  Liberia  is  equatorial.  Pensive  autumn  and 
gloomy  ■winter  are  strangers  to  her  fertile  plains,  seed-time 
and  harvest  embrace  each  other  in  perijetual  wedlock,  and 
fruitful  summer  presides  over  the  circling  year.  Seeds 
ripen,  and  leaves  grow  sear,  and  fall  there,  as  everywhere, 
but  decay  and  reproduction  are  ceaseless  in  their  operations, 
and  claim  all  seasons  as  their  own.  The  same  soft  breeze 
which  shakes  the  withered  palm  stem  and  the  ripened  orange 
to  the  ground,  brings  freedom  to  the  swelling  corn  shoot, 
and  bears  the  pollen  of  the  full-blown  flower  to  its  hymeneal 
cell ;  and  the  same  rays  M-liich  brown  the  rough  cheeks  of 
the  full-grown  cocoa-nut,  paint  in  delicate  tints  the  expand- 
ing guava.  Nature  here  takes  no  rest,  but  with  beneficent 
hand  scatters  buds,  and  leaves,  and  flowers,  and  fruits  with 
each  morning's  sun  and  each  evening's  dew. 

The  year  is  divided  by  two  seasons,  the  wet  and  the  dry, 
familiarly  termed  the  rains  and  the  dries.  The  former  be- 
ginning with  June  ends  with  October.  This  is  the  cooler, 
or  perhaps  we  should  say  the  less  wai'm  of  the  seasons,  and 
is  therefore  sometimes  styled  "  winter."    Certainly  the  sea- 

142 


LIBEKIA. 


143 


son  brings  with  it  none  of  tlie  circumstances  -which  attend 
winter  in  temperate  latitudes ;  yet  to  the  emigrant  and  the 
missionary  the  name  lias  a  pleasant  sound,  and  brings  with 
it  associations  bright  in  memory  and  dear  to  the  heart.  It 
must  not  be  supposed  that  during  the  rainy  season  the  earth 
receives  a  ceaseless  baptism  of  showers,  nor  that  the  dry 
season  is  one  unrelieved  drought.  Clear  skies,  and  succes- 
sive days  of  fine  weather,  occur  in  the  rains  in  the  months 
of  July  and  August,  and  in  the  other  months  an  unbroken 
shower  of  a  week's  continuance  is  unusual. 

It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  on  the  whole  this 
season  is  more  agreeable  to  young  ducks  than  to  human 
beings. 

Light  rains  fall  frequently  in  "the  dries."  The  month  of 
January  is  usually  very  dry,  yet  I  have  seen  heavy  showers 
in  this  month. 

The  average  heat  of  the  year  in  Monrovia  is  80°  Fahr.,  the 
main  temperature  of  the  rains  is  'iQ°  and  of  the  dries  84°. 
The  mercury  seldom  rises  above  90°  in  the  shade,  exposed 
to  the  wind,  and  we  have  never  heard  of  its  falling  below 
68°.  These  extremes  arc  noted  as  occurring  in  the  same 
month  ;  yet,  as  compared  with  the  climate  of  the  southern 
States,  the  climate  of  Liberia  may  be  desci'ibed  as  very 
equable,  for  the  daily  variation  seldom  exceeds  10°.  June 
is  the  coolest  month,  and  January  the  hottest,  yet  I  have 
walked  the  roads  and  woods  about  Monrovia  in  the  latter 
month  without  suffering  as  much  from  the  effects  of  heat  as 
I  have  suffered  in  Georgia,  or  Florida,  in  the  month  of  July. 
During  the  hottest  season,  January,  February,  and  JMarch, 
the  effects  of  the  almost  vertical  rays  of  the  sun  arc  miti- 
gated by  the  constancy  of  the  winds.   The  land  breeze,  or 


144:        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  0BSEEVATI0N8. 


harmattan,  prevails  from  midnight  mitil  near  midday,  and 
the  sea  breeze  from  midday  xmtil  near  midnight.  Occasiou- 
ally  there  is  a  hill  between  these  ■winds,  and  while  it  conti- 
nues, whether  at  noon  or  night,  the  heat  is  intense.  The 
rains  and  dries  are  ushered  in  by  those  fierce  tornadoes 
which  are  the  terror  of  the  African  cruiser,  but  which,  by 
a  gracious  jjro vision  of  Providence,  give  timely  warning  of 
their  approach. 

The  climate  of  Liberia,  whether  interior  or  coastwise,  is 
deadly  to  the  white  man ;  nor  would  it  be  wise  to  hide  the 
fact,  that  it  is  formidable  to  those  persons  of  color  who  have 
attained  the  meiidian  of  life  in  temperate  zones.  The  cause 
of  this  unhealthiness,  as  we  see  from  the  figures  before  us, 
is  not  to  be  found  in  the  degree  of  heat,  frequency  or  sud- 
denness of  the  changes  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere, nor  yet  in  the  continuance  of  the  heat,  for  the  first 
fever,  called  acclimating,  which  is  the  severest  ordeal  through 
which  the  stranger  passes,  generally  comes  on  in  the  course 
of  the  first  month's  residence. 

The  cause  is  to  be  looked  for  in  those  miasmata  which 
throng  the  air,  but  of  which,  as  to  their  origin  and  cliarac- 
ter,  we  have  no  certain  knowledge.  This  sickness  indicates 
its  approach  by  headache,  pains  in  tlie  back,  loss  of  appe- 
tite, and  more  or  less  gastric  derangement,  and  rapidly  de- 
velops into  bilious  remittent  fever.  This  sometimes  yields 
to  a  mild  medical  treatment,  and  the  patient,  if  young  and 
of  good  constitution,  without  fuilher  initiatory  pliysical 
penalties  is  prepared  to  endure  ordinary  exposure  to  his 
adopted  climate.  Generally,  hoAvever,  this  disease  assumes 
the  tertiary,  or  other  form  of  intermittent  fever,  accompa- 
nied by  bilious  vomiting,  furred  tongue,  a  dull  expression 


LIBEBIA. 


145 


of  the  eye,  and  in  the  febrile  paroxysms  intense  headache 
and  deUrium.  This  is  the  African  fever.  It  sometimes 
passes  into  the  inflammatory  type,  and  death  follows  from 
the  congestion  of  some  vital  organ.  The  sheet-anchor  of  the 
profession  in  the  treatment  of  the  acclimating  fever  is 
qumine. 

Skillful  physicians,  though  not  numerous  nor  equal  to  the 
demands  of  the  population,  are  not  entirely  wanting  in  Li- 
beria. Dr.  Roberts,  of  Monrovia,  brother  of  ex-president 
Roberts,  is  a  colored  gentleman  of  high  jirofessional  attain- 
ments, and  could  take  resjsectable  rank  among  medical  men 
in  any  country.  Several  well-educated  young  men  from 
Liberia  are  now  in  America  completing  their  medical  edu- 
cation, and  tlie  prospect  is  that  there,  as  with  us,  doctors 
and  lawyers  will  soon  be  excessively  abundant.  As  jAysi- 
cians  and  nurses  are  becoming  acquainted  Avith  the  fever 
referred  to,  the  mortality  among  colored  emigrants  is  de- 
creasing, and  at  this  time  may  be  estimated  at  ten  per  cent. 
It  has  been  as  higli  as  forty  per  cent.  In  tlie  report  of  the 
Virginia  Colonization  Society  for  1S57,  it  is  stated  tliat  tlie 
mortality  attending  colonization  in  Africa  has  not  exceeded 
that  whicli  attended  tlie  colonies  of  Jamestown  and  Ply- 
raoutli  in  this  country.  Tlic  fever  leaves  the  system  pecu- 
liarly Uable  to  attacks  of  chill  and  fever,  sometimes  leaves 
the  liver  permanently  deranged.  Among  those  who  had 
emigi'ated  late  in  life  I  have  seen  several  cases  where  no 
health  liad  becu  enjoyed  since  their  arrival  on  the  coast 
many  years  ago.  Their  constitutions  sliattered  and  spirits 
wasted,  without  means  or  ability  to  labor,  dependent  on  the 
charities  of  tlicir  brethren  and  strangers,  yet  sustained  by 
the  comforts  of  the  religion  learned  and  found  in  the  homes 

1 


146        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


they  shall  visit  no  more,  they  are  patiently  awaiting  their 
transfer  to  the  healthful  shore  purchased  for  the  outcasts  by 
a  Saviour's  blood. 

To  the  white  man  there  is  no  acclimation  in  Liberia,  or 
elsewhere  on  the  "West  Coast.  The  so-called  acclimating 
attack  secures  to  him  no  immunity  from  a  second  or  a  third, 
but  the  period  of  the  first  bilious  intermittent  is  perhaps  the 
most  critical.  It  is  utterly  out  of  the  question  for  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  or  Celt  to  enjoy  robust  health  here,  or  in  any  other 
tropical  climate ;  but  while  he  lives  on  the  coast,  the  price  of 
his  life  is  ceaseless  and  jirecise  attention  to  clothing  and 
diet,  the  strictest  temperance  in  his  habits,  and  as  far  as  pos- 
sible non-exposure  to  the  sun,  the  dews,  and  night  air.  I 
suppose  that  the  mortuary  statistics  of  missions  in  Liberia 
will  differ  but  little  from  those  of  Sierra  Leone,  and  there 
the  average  missionary  life  has  been  under  three  years  ! 
Think  of  this  ye  who  complain  of  the  hardsliips  of  missionary 
work  among  the  rice  fields  of  the  South,  and  ye  who  dream 
of  the  charming  novelty  and  romance  of  the  missionary  life 
in  foreign  lands  ;  nor  overlook  it  ye  who  ignobly  sneer  at 
these  immolations  of  self  on  the  altar  of  Christian  love,  and 
question  the  paramount  poAver  of  the  rehgions  motive  over 
wise  and  enlightened  minds. 

Li  reading  this  description  of  the  climate  of  Liberia,  the 
Btand-point  must  be  borne  in  mind.  To  the  native  it  is  a 
good  climate  ;  many  of  the  Veys  and  Golhas  live  to  a  great 
age,  and  have  but  few  diseases,  and  avc  doubt  not  that  the 
children  of  the  Americo- Africans,  if  properly  trained,  will  be 
a  robust  and  long-lived  race. 

The  soil  of  Liberia,  if  Ave  may  judge  from  the  native 
growths,  is  rich  and  strong.    This  exuberant  vegetation, 


UBERIA. 


147 


forests  of  giant  timbers  and  almost  impenetrable  under- 
growth, is,  however,  largely  due  to  the  warmth  and  humid- 
ity of  the  atmosphere.  So  far  as  we  saw  and  could  learn, 
the  general  character  of  the  soil  is  argillaceous ;  yet  there 
is  no  lack  of  variety,  and  soils  that  in  our  latitude  would  be 
considered  harsh  and  unproductive,  are  here  richly  fruitful. 
Owing  to  the  quantity  of  vegetation  which  for  imnmnbered 
centuries  has  waved  and  scattered  over  these  lands,  the  sur- 
face bears  vegetable  mold  in  large  quantities,  and  for  its 
exhaustion  will  require  years  of  continuous  cultivation.  The 
low  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  Monrovia,  and  I  suppose  else- 
where, are  composed  of  alluvium  and  marls.  The  moun- 
tains and  bold  promontories  on  the  coast,  like  those  of 
Sierra  Leone,  are  related  in  their  origin,  or  perhaps  w^e 
should  say  in  their  elevation,  to  that  volcanic  system  of 
which  the  Madeiras,  Canaries,  Cape  Verds,  and  other  islands 
not  yet  mentioned  are  a  part.  Cape  Mcsurado,  on  which 
the  town  of  Monrovia  stands,  is  composed  of  hornblende, 
basalt,  and  other  igneous  rocks,  and  ferruginous  clays.  In  a 
"  pocket  full  of  rocks,"  which  a  friend  brought  us  from  the 
interior,  we  have  limestone,  two  or  three  varieties  of  sand- 
stone, quartz  rock  and  iron  ore.  The  ore  is  peculiarly  rich. 
Copper  and  otlicr  valuable  metals  are  said  to  abound  in  the 
interior. 

The  productions  of  Liberia  are  almost  endless,  certainly 
countless,  in  their  variety.  Some  of  the  more  important 
native  productions  are  rosewood,  teak,  mahogany,  hickory, 
poplar,  brimstone-wood,  so  called  from  its  rich  yellow  color, 
sassa-wood,  and  many  others  valuable  in  ship-building  and 
cabinet  work.  Cam-wood  and  other  valuable  dye-woods, 
Bomc  ebony,  and  in  parte  of  the  interior  the  acacia,  which 


14:8       PEESOXAL  ADVENTUKES  XSD  OESEEYATIONS. 


yields  the  gum  ai  abic  of  commerce,  and  the  copal  tree.  Of 
the  palm  tree  there  are  several  varieties,  and  all  highly  use- 
ful. The  nut-bearing  palm  is  the  most  valuable  of  these, 
and  will  some  day  prove  a  source  of  immense  wealth  to  the 
people  of  the  "West  Coast.  The  palm  oil,  so  valuable  in 
commerce  and  African  trade,  is  expressed  from  the  soft 
pulpy  rind  which  surrounds  the  nut.  When  fresh  it  is  of  a 
clear  red  color,  is  used  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of  food, 
and  white  men  find  it  a  most  delicious  salad  oil.  We  shaU 
refer  to  it  again.  The  gums  of  Senegal,  Gambia,  Sierra 
Leone  and  Liberia,  are  more  valuable  and  more  imijortant 
in  commerce  than  Mr.  Bowen  and  other  travellers  suppose. 
At  Sierra  Leone,  we  procured  some  excellent  specimens  of 
copal  and  arabic  gums  brought  from  a  distance  in  the  in- 
terior. The  arabic  of  Senegal  is  esteemed  of  the  highest 
value  in  the  French  markets. 

Medical  plants  abound :  the  copaiba  tree,  the  croton  tig- 
liu7)i,  which  yields  the  croton  oil ;  the  ricinus  communis, 
or  castor  oil  plant ;  and  the  ricinus  major,  called  also  cur- 
cas  purgans.  The  seeds  of  the  last  produce  a  highly  purga- 
tive oil,  and  the  wood  is  much  used  for  hedges  and  fences. 
It  abounds  in  the  Cape  Verd  Islands,  where  it  is  called  the 
pulga,  and  the  seed  is  becoming  an  important  article  in 
exportation.  The  natives  l)eat  out  the  oil  for  burning  in 
lamps. 

Among  the  grains,  the  more  important  arc  Indian  corn, 
of  several  varieties,  and  rice  of  an  excellent  quality.  By  an 
experiment  lately  made  at  the  new  settlement,  fifty  miles 
in  the  interior,  called  Careysburg,  it  has  been  ascertained 
that  wheat,  barley  and  oats  may  be  produced  on  the  liigli 
lands,  yielding  average  harvests.  Cotton  flourishes  in  every 


UBEEIA. 


149 


part  of  Western  Africa,  and  is  claimed  by  some  to  be  in- 
digenous. The  many  samples  of  African  cotton  I  have  seen 
do  not  come  up  to  the  descriptions  given  of  it  by  travellers. 
The  best  that  came  under  my  notice  classed  with  the  mid- 
dling flxir  of  our  uplands.  Cofiee  of  superior  quality,  and 
sugar  cane,  may  be  produced  with  little  labor. 

The  fruits  are  numerous  and  delicious.  Those  with  which 
we  are  familiar  are  the  mango,  lemon,  lime,  orange,  guava, 
tamarind  and  pomegranate ;  the  cocoanut,  plantain,  banana, 
the  sweet  and  sour  sops,  rose-apple,  African  cherry,  pine- 
apple, avocado-pear,  and  the  African  peach.  "We  shall  refer 
to  some  of  these  more  particularly  from  some  part  of  the 
coast  where  there  is  not  so  much  of  more  importance  to  de- 
mand our  attention  as  we  find  in  Liberia. 

The  esculent  and  farinaceous  roots  are  in  great  variety ; 
those  most  commonly  cultivated  are  the  sweet  potato  of 
several  varieties,  the  cassada,  from  which  the  cassava  farina 
of  commerce  is  prepared,  the  West  Indian  yam,  the  tania, 
which  in  flavor  resembles  the  Lish  potato,  and  the  arrow 
root.  The  common  garden  vegetables  of  America  flourish 
in  Liberia  when  planted  in  the  proper  season,  which  seems 
to  be  March  or  April.  We  saw  at  Monrovia  excellent  cab- 
bages, snap  and  lima  beaus,  field  peas,  tomatoes,  cut  umbers 
and  beets.  If  the  African  cruisers  would  remain  long 
enough  at  Monrovia  to  send  up  the  St.  Paul's  for  supplies, 
they  would  have  less  reason  to  complain  of  the  want  of 
vegetables  on  the  coa.st.  Our  domestic  fowls  thrive  in 
Liberia,  but  the  cattle  are  inferior.  Tiie  sheep,  being 
covered  with  hair  instead  of  wool,  much  resemble  the  goat, 
and  the  mutton  is  indiflercnt.  Oxen  are  too  small  to  be  of 
mach  value  as  beasts  of  draught  or  burden,  and  the  beef  is 


150        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 


seldom  very  good.  Pigs  and  goats  thrive  -well,  and  tlie 
former,  -witli  a  laudable  independence,  make  their  own 
living.  They  are  of  the  true  rei^ublican  stripe — lean  and 
lauk,  and  somewhat  care-worn  in  the  face.  Here,  as  in 
Sierra  Leone,  horses  do  not  last,  even  with  care  and  skillful 
treatment,  more  than  three  or  four  years.  "Wild  animals 
are  becoming  scarce.  The  elephant,  hippopotamus,  leopard, 
crocodile,  boa  constrictor,  and  deer,  formerly  abundant, 
are  receding  before  the  advancing  civilization.  Monkeys, 
guanas,  chameleons,  lizards  and  ants,  in  great  A^ariety,  still 
infest  the  woods. 

The  driver  ants,  of  which  so  many  interesting  stories  may 
be  told,  are  a  useful  annoyance.  In  their  migrations  they 
travel  in  companies  of  countless  thousands,  and  with  the 
order  of  a  well  drilled  army.  In  crossing  a  path  the  ad- 
vance guard  forms  into  a  perfect  arch,  under  which  the 
army  passes,  and  then  the  hridgemen  form  into  line  in  the 
rear.  They  do  not  turn  out  of  the  line  of  their  course  for 
any  obstruction  which  they  can  surmount  or  remove.  Boasts 
and  insects  of  all  kinds  fear  them,  and  when  they  come 
down  on  a  dwelling  tlie  inmates  retire,  and  the  visitoiT?, 
acting  as  a  scavenger  police,  soon  clear  it  of  insects  and 
vermin  of  every  kind.  Their  visits,  therefore,  are  h.ailed 
with  Avelcome.  (Wish  a  few  companies  could  be  brought 
over  for  the  benefit  of  some  of  our  western  liotcls,  as  a 
standing  army  for  the  defence  of  bed-rooms.)  They  are  ac- 
companied by  birds  which  prey  upon  the  insects  that  fly 
before  them. 

In  this  sketch  we  have  necessarily  omitted  many  things 
of  interest  regarding  the  climate,  soil  and  productions  of 
Liberia ;  but  we  trust  that  enough  has  been  said  to  give 


LIBEEIA, 


151 


the  reader  a  general  idea  of  the  character  of  each.  We 
•  have  only^to  add  that,  notwithstanding  the  prodigality  of 
nature  in  the  bestowmcnt  of  animal  and  vegetable  food  for 
man,  labor  is  quite  as  necessary  to  procure  the  comforts  of 
life  there  as  here,  and  toil  is  more  irksome :  that,  therefore, 
the  sluggard  begs  amidst  perpetual  harvests,  and  the  poor 
are  often  hungry  amidst  fullness  of  bread. 

The  providence  of  God  is  marvellously  varied ;  yet,  in 
the  distribution  of  good  and  ill  to  man,  the  balance  hanga 
with  an  even  beam. 


CHAPTER  Xm. 


LIBEEIA  CONTINUED. 

Considerations  not  to  be  Overlooked — Af^riculture  and  Trade — Beggars 
— Society  and  Morals  in  Liberia — Intellectual  Deyelopinents — A  Col- 
lege— Influence  of  Liberia — A  Question  Answered — How  Liberia  is  to 
Civilize — Prospect  of  Union  with  Sierra  Leone. 

In  looking  into  the  industrial,  social,  moral  and  intellectual 
character  of  the  Liberians,  justice  to  ourselves  and  to  them 
demands  that  we  should  give  due  weight  to  the  following 
considerations  : 

First,  the  recency  of  the  establishment.  Second,  the 
Avant  of  capital  in  those  who  formed  the  government,  and 
those  who,  by  immigration,  continue  to  increase  its  jiopula- 
tion.  Third,  most  of  the  emigrants  were  from  the  Slave 
States  and  had  never  learned  to  plan  and  jirovide  for  their 
own  maintenance — those  from  the  States  called  free  were 
equally  dependent — and  the  difficult  lesson  of  self-depend- 
ence had  to  be  learned  under  the  disadvantages  arishig  from 
an  unfavorable  climate,  new  modes  of  labor,  new  elements 
of  subsistence,  new  states  of  society,  and  entirely  now  asso- 
ciations. Fourth,  the  necessarily  imperfect  civilization  of 
those  Avho,  though  long  in  contact  with  a  high  state  of  civil- 
ization, were  there  as  ignorant  spectators,  not  as  practical 
students.  The  Christian  religion,  which,  in  its  essential 
facts,  they  brought  with  them  from  the  land  of  the  white 
man,  contains  many,  perhaps  most,  of  the  important  and 

152 


LIBERIA. 


153 


vital  elements  of  civilization,  but  not  all.  Fifth,  that  in 
forming  an  estimate  of  their  civilization,  the  American  ob- 
serA-er  tries  it  by  the  highest  standard.  He  does  the  same 
in  estimating  their  intellectual  character,  his  standard  in 
both  cases  being  the  attainments  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race. 
He  who  stands  on  the  sublime  heights  of  TeneriiFe  or  Atlas 
is  not  prepared  to  estimate  the  altitude  of  the  hills  on  the 
plains  below.  The  sum  of  these  considerations  is,  that  in 
any  of  the  departments  of  civilized  society,  we  are  not  to 
look  for  much  in  Liberia ;  yet,  as  a  people,  they  are  not 
•without  excellences,  which  reflect  credit  on  the  civilization 
of  their  adoption,  their  virtue  and  intelligence. 

As  yet,  the  Liberians  have  done  but  little  in  the  way  of 
agriculture,  and  until  tliey  become  a  producing  people  they 
cannot  bo  Avealthy,  nor  in  any  high  sense  independent. 
They  do  nothing  in  the  way  of  manufactures,  if  we  except 
the  little  sugar  that  is  produced  on  the  farms  of  the  St. 
Paul's  River ;  their  main  business  is  traffic,  and  though  this 
is  carried  on  in  a  small-sale  way,  it  furnishes  employment  to 
the  capital  of  the  country,  and  to  many  of  the  people. 
Young  Africa,  patterning  after  Toung  America,  has  a  pen- 
chant for  merchandising  and  the  2>i'ofessions.  The  petty 
merchants  buy  palm  oil,  rico,  camwood,  skins,  and  a  few 
otlier  unimportant  articles,  iu  small  quantities  from  the 
natives ;  for  which  they  give  tobacco,  powder,  cheap  cut- 
lery, and  cotton  cloths.  The  more  wealtliy  merchants  buy 
from  these,  and  sell  again  to  the  English  and  American  mer- 
chant vessels,  or  ship  directly  to  tlie  States.  There  are 
sevgral  men  of  considerable  wealth  in  Monrovia.  They 
keep  large,  well-assoitcd  stocks  of  dry  goods,  and  find  ready 
purchasers  among  their  own  people. 


154:       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Many  of  tlie  Liberians  are  meelianics — carpenters  princi- 
pally— and  these  find  -work,  at  rather  moderate  wages,  about 
the  towns  and  settlements.  Shoemakers,  masons,  tinners 
and  blacksmiths  are  abundant,  but  steady  work  in  their 
departments  is  rather  scarce.  Those  Avho  have  no  trade 
nor  the  means  of  "  keeping  stoi-e "  are  driven  to  farming, 
and  in  the  end,  if  at  all  industrious,  are  the  most  comfort- 
able. 

When  emigrants,  who  are  sent  out — passage  free — by  the 
Colonization  Society,  arrive  in  Liberia  they  are  transferred 
to  the  Receptacle  House,  where  for  six  months  they  are 
provided  Avith  good  board  and  excellent  medical  attention. 
In  the  course  of  this  time  most  of  the  emigrants  pass 
through  the  acclimating  fever  and  are  restored  to  health 
sufficiently  to  be  able  to  provide  for  themselves.  The 
republic  offers  to  each  adult  jierson  a  piece  of  land  contain- 
ing five  acres,  or  a  lot  in  to^m.  Farming  and  cooking 
utensils  ai*e  furnished  by  the  Society ;  and  thus,  brought 
through  the  fever,  and  furnished  with  tools  to  Avork,  a  home 
and  something  to  imt  in  it,  the  initiated  stranger  is  left  to 
himself 

Such  is  the  beginning  which  a  majority  of  the  emigrants 
have  made ;  but  there  are  many  others  who  at  the  end  of 
six  months  are  far  from  being  rid  of  the  efiects  of  the  fever, 
and,  entirely  incapable  of  providing  for  themselves,  are  sent 
forth  to  beg,  or  make  a  living  othei'wise,  as  best  they  may. 
It  is  desirable  that  the  Society  should  extend  its  aid  in  such 
cases,  but  at  present  we  suppose  that  it  is  not  able.  Tliese 
are  the  beggars  who  hang  about  the  landing-places  in  ijon- 
rovia,  crying  for  a  pcimy  from  visitors,  and  praying  to  be 
taken  back  to  America.    Among  these  beggars  are  many 


LIBEKIA. 


155 


too  lazy  to  learn  to  work — barbers,  waiters,  coaclimen  fi'om 
our  northern  cities,  and  others  who,  because  of  bad  cha- 
racter, cannot  find  employment ;  yet  truth  commands  us  to 
say,  tliat  we  have  seen  in  Monrovia  many  cases  of  real  and 
blameless  poverty.  There  are  scores  there  who  would  be 
blest,  indeed,  if  transferred  to  some  plantation  in  the  South, 
The  same  may  be  said,  however,  of  many  in  our  own 
cities. 

Liberians  have  been  much  censured  for  their  neglect  of 
agriculture,  and  not  without  some  reason ;  but  words  are 
cheap.  In  Liberia  there  are  no  horses,  no  mules,  nor  even 
donkeys,  and  the  oxen  arc  too  small  to  be  of  much  service ; 
nor  have  the  people  the  means  of  procm-ing  beasts  of  labor. 
Farmmg  by  hand  is  slow  business  where  grass  grows  so 
raj^idly  as  to  require  the  constant  labor  of  one  hand  to  keep 
an  aci-e  or  two  clear  enough  to  make  corn  and  potatoes  for 
a  family.  The  very  fertility  of  the  soil  is  a  disadvantage, 
with  the  present  means  of  husbandry.  Rice  is  the  staple 
article  of  food  among  both  Liberians  and  natives.  It  re- 
quires less  labor  in  its  production  than  any  other  bread- 
stuff; but  this  is  brought  in  by  the  natives  in  such  quantities, 
and  sold  at  so  low  a  i-atc,  that  farmers  cannot  compete  with 
them.  This  supply,  however,  does  not  keep  pace  Avith  the 
demands  of  the  increasing  population,  and,  therefore,  the 
time  is  not  distant  when  the  Liberians  will  find  it  both  pro- 
fitable and  necessary  to  produce  it  for  themselves.  Coftec 
may  be  produced  in  Liberia  with  but  little  labor,  and  it  is 
growing  in  importance  as  an  article  of  exportation.  The 
cultivation  of  sugar-cane  is  also  attracting  much  attention. 
Several  mills  for  gi-hiding  the  cane  have  lately  been  intro- 
duced, two  or  three  of  Avhich  arc  steam  mills.    There  are 


156        I'EKSOXAL  ADVENTUllKS  AND  OESEia'ATIOXS. 


many  good  funiis  on  tlie  St.  Paul's  River,  and  other  interior 
settlements.  Citizens  of  Monrovia  have  invested  capital  in 
lands  and  good  farming  implements,  have  employed  natives 
to  work,  and  are  doing  a  good  service  to  their  eoimtry  in 
developing  its  resources.  Nature  has  designed  the  people 
and  country  of  Liberia  to  be  producers  rather  than  manu- 
facturers, and  the  sooner  circumstances  compel  them  to 
their  plainly  indicated  mission,  the  better  for  them.  But  the 
means  for  beginning  must  be  first  given,  or  acquired  by  the 
present  slow  process  ;  after  that,  progress  will  be  easy  and 
natural,  and  her  fertile  plains  will  unbosom  a  vast  and  an 
exhaustless  wealth. 

Society  in  Liberia  is  as  good  as  can  be  reasonably  ex- 
pected ;  indeed,  we  found  a  degree  of  refinement  and  taste 
for  which  we  were  not  prepared.  The  people  desire  to  live 
in  comfortable  and  pretty  houses,  the  ladies  and  beaux  dress 
in  the  fashion,  and  an  aristocracy  of  means  and  education  is 
already  set  up.  The  people  generally  dress  above  their 
means,  extravagantly  so,  and  the  quantity  of  kid  gloves 
and  umbrellas  displayed  on  all  occasions  does  not  promise 
well  for  a  nation  whose  hope  rests  on  hard  hands  and  well 
used  and  Avell  developed  muscles.  The  Virghihtns  are  said 
to  be  the  leaders  of  the  aristocracy ;  and  licre  we  must  add, 
as  the  result  of  our  observation,  that  those  who  came  ori- 
ginally from  Maryland,  Virginia,  and  Georgia,  as  a  class, 
are  more  intelligent,  more  industrious,  and  more  worthy 
than  those  who  hail  from  jioints  further  north. 

Thanks  to  the  missionary  societies  Avhich  have  followed 
the  emigrants  with  teachers  and  preachers,  the  people  are 
in  a  good  degree  intelligent  and  religious,  and  remarkably 
moral.    As  a  people,  they  are  proud,  very  nuich  puffed  up, 


LIBEEIA. 


157 


and  offensively  boastful.  This  seems  to  be  the  lot  alike  of 
young  nations  and  young  gentlemen  just  turned  loose  from 
school.  Time  and  experience  will  generally  cure  both. 
The  only  danger  is  that  some  suicidal  act  may  be  committed 
before  self-knowledge  comes.  Already  the  Liberians  evince 
a  degree  of  antipathy  to  those  who  assume  superiority  to 
them,  by  coming  among  them  as  teachers.  They  would  be 
independent  of  missionaries  if  they  could,  but  there  are 
sane  men  enough  among  them,  we  trust,  to  keeji  this 
morbidly  sensitive  and  foolish  spirit  in  abeyance  until  the 
people  arc  capable  of  providing  for  their  own  educational 
and  religious  wants.  By  that  time  they  will  have  learned, 
among  many  other  thuigc,  to  esteem  such  agencies  more 
highly. 

The  government  is  making  some  jn-ovision  for  country 
schools,  but  I  do  not  understand  exactly  what.  There  is 
one  school  in  Monrovia,  and  that  a  very  respectable  one, 
called  the  Academy,  I  believe,  that  is  self-supporting.  I 
was  present  at  one  of  the  examinations,  and  was  mucli 
pleased  with  the  intelligence  and  proficiency  of  the  scholars. 
Young  Africans,  as  we  have  seen  in  our  Sunday-schools 
in  southern  cities,  commit  to  memory  readily  and  correctly, 
and  as  we  have  seen  here  and  elsewhere  on  the  coast, 
comprehend  with  near  as  much  readiness  as  other  youths. 
The  deficiency  seems  to  be  in  the  practical  application. 
But  the  African  race  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  and  the  mental 
character  undeveloped.  At  i)resent  they  seem  to  be 
deficient  in  tlie  reflective  faculties,  particularly  in  causality, 
but  what  they  may  develop,  when  for  generations  tiiey  have 
been  under  the  influence  of  a  high  degree  of  civilization,  is 
yet  to  be  seen.    They  possess  many  of  those  qualities 


15S        PEKSOXAL  ADVES'TUKES  AKD  OESEJiVATIONS. 


■which  give  excellence  in  the  fine  arts,  and  are  by  no  means 
deficient  in  the  superior  sentiments. 

I  regret  to  say  that  a  coUege  has  been  lately  established 
in  Liberia,  the  presidency  of  which  has  been  conferred  on 
ex-President  Roberts.  I  regret  it,  because  it  will  involve 
an  outlay  that  might  be  better  used  in  common  schools.  It 
will  send  out,  for  years  at  least,  men  imperfectly  learned, 
with  the  idea  that  they  are  scholars,  and  create  a  false 
standard  of  education.  The  present  state  of  society  has  no 
demand  for  such  a  thing,  the  high  schools  already  in 
ojieration  being  sufiicieut  to  supply  teachers  and  pro- 
fessional men,  and  these  are  sufficiently  patronized.  A 
coujjle  of  manual  labor  schools,  somewhere  in  the  interior, 
Avould  be  vastly  more  useful.  These  things — academies 
dubbed  colleges — are  getting  to  be  an  evil  among  us  in  the 
States,  and  we  are  sorry  to  see  our  ebony  offshoot  copying 
any  of  our  defects. 

What  are  the  Liberians  doing  toward  converting  the 
natives  ? 

I  once  pulled  a  drunken  man  off  a  railroad  track  just  in 
time  to  save  him  from  being  run  over  by  the  train.  The 
imminence  of  his  danger  sobered  him  a  little,  and  rising  to 
his  feet,  he  exclaimed  : 

"  Sir,  you  have  saved  my  life !  What  shall  I  do  for 
you  ?" 

"  Pray  for  me,"  said  I. 

"  Well,"  said  he,  after  a  moment's  thought,  "  I  guess  I'll 
have  to  begin  that  job  by  praying  for  myself;  and  it'll  give 
me  enough ybr  a  while  to  do  that," 

When  the  Liberians  are  converted  themselves  then  they 
may  strengthen  their  brethren.    At  present  they  have  no 


LIBERIA. 


159 


means  to  spare  in  that  direction.  Indirectly,  however,  they 
are  exerting  an  elevating  influence  over  the  tribes  around. 
They  hire  their  children  as  domestics,  and  these  generally 
forsake  the  religion  of  their  fathers  for  that  of  their  masters. 
The  savages  acknowledge  the  superiority  of  the  civilized 
man ;  they  ai-e  gradually  adopting  the  ideas  and  practices 
of  civilized  life,  and  eventually  they  will  become  one  peoj^le. 
The  schools  and  other  missionary  operations  among  them 
are  hastening  this  event. 

At  present  the  natives  are  prejudiced  against,  and  bitterly 
jealous  of,  their  Christian  brethren,  and,  like  the  w^ild 
monkeys  that  will  pick  a  tame  J ocko  to  pieces  if  he  goes 
among  them  in  gay  clothes  and  cocked  hat,  for  gettiug 
above  his  kin,  they  would  destroy  the  Liberians  if  they 
could.  But  this  prejudice  will  soon  wear  away,  and  they 
will  become  the  willing  disciples  of  their  more  exalted 
brethren.  Those  living  in  the  territory  of  the  republic  are 
forced  into  a  degree  of  civilization,  by  the  laws  which 
re(piire  the  abandonment  of  certain  cruel  rites,  and  the 
reference  of  disputes  to  the  constituted  authorities.  If  the 
republic  survives,  it  is  her  "  manifest  destiny  "  to  civilize  by 
annexation  ;  and  like  some  other  nations  we  Avot  of,  to 
extend  her  sheltering  wings  over  adjoining  peojiles,  making 
herself  rich  the  while  by  appropriating,  for  her  services, 
their  lands  and  treasures.  In  the  chaste  and  classic 
language  of  our  American  satirist  in  the  "  Biglow 
Papers :" 

• 

"  To  go  '  ascrugin '  'cm  out  o'  their  dominions. 
Asliclterin'  'em,  az  Caleb  scz,  under  their  eagle's  pinions, 
Which  means  to  take  a  feller  up  jest  by  the  slack  o'  's  trowsis, 
An'  walk  him  Spanish  clean  right  out  o'  all  bis  homes  an'  housis; 


160        J'ERSONAL  ADYENTUKES  AJJD  OBSEliVATIOiJS. 


Wal,  it  doos  seem  a  curua  way,  but  then  hooraw  for  Jackson ! 

li  must  be  right,  fer  Caleb  sez  its  reg'lar  Anglo-Saxon?^ 

The  Liberians,  and  for  them  their  friends  in  America,  are 
anxious  for  a  union  with  Sierra  Leone  ;  but  like  some  of  the 
Protestant  denominations  who  liberally  propose  imion 
among  Christians  by  inviting  all  to  join  in  tJieir  creeds  and 
modes,  they  propose  a  union  in  which,  as  to  form  of 
government.  Sierra  Leone  shall  concede  everything  and 
Liberia  nothing.  Liberia,  by  the  addition  of  a  fertile  and 
an  extensive  territory,  good  harbors,  of  which  at  present 
she  has  none,  and  thousands  of  intelligent  citizens,  would 
be  largely  the  gainer ;  and  for  this  reason,  as  an  American, 
1  should  be  glad  for  such  a  union  to  take  place.  In  con- 
versinsr  with  the  leadin"  colored  officials  of  Sierra  Leone  on 
this  subject,  I  found  that,  to  a  man,  they  would  be  very 
decidedly  averse  to  any  proposition  looking  in  that  direction  ; 
and  that  though  well  wishers,  they  are  not  admirers  of  the 
goveramcut  of  Liberia  or  the  tyi^e  of  her  civilization. 
The  nations  cherish  and  keep  prominent  those  social  and 
political  peculiarities  which  distinguish  English  and  Ameri- 
can civilization,  and,  both  being  uncompromising,  they  are 
further  apart  than  America  and  England.  "When  Canada 
is  annexed  to  the  United  States,  Sierra  Leone  may  be 
joined  to  Liberia!  Considering  the  interests  of  Sierra 
Leone,  I  cannot  say  that  it  would  be  wise  in  her  to  detach 
herself  from  the  protection  and  assistance  of  Great  Britain, 
for  the  sake  of  uniting  -ft-ith  a  young  and  struggling 
republic.  Tlte  British  lion  may  be  very  stern,  and  his  paw 
at  times  very  heavy,  but  it  would  hardly  be  prudent  to 
desert  his  protection  for  that  of  an  unfledged  eaglet  dis- 
carded by  its  parent. 


LIBERIA. 


161 


The  great  war  Letween  Civilization  and  Barbarism, 
Christianity  and  Idolatry,  is  yet  to  be  fought  in  Afiica; 
blessed  is  that  colony  or  republic  which,  when  the  day  of 
battle  comes,  shall  find  that  she  is  sustained  by  the 
sympathy  and  force  of  a  powerful  nation. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


LIBERIA  —  COXCLUDED. 

Visit  to  President  Benson — Ex-President  Roberts  and  Family — Visit  to 
the  Senate — The  House  of  Representatives — Politicians — The  Press — 
Pulpit  Celebrities — Bishop  Burns — A  Georgia  Liberian — Messages  to 
Friends — ^What  shall  we  do  with  our  Free  Colored  Population — A  Rail- 
road for  Liberia — American  Colonization  Society — Melville  B.  Cox — 
Adieu. 

Ox  a  bright  morning  in  January,  1857,  1  accompanied  Com- 
mander "Ward  in  an  official  visit  to  the  President  of  Liberia. 
We  were  shown  into  a  comfortably  and  tastefully  furnished 
parlor  of  the  presidential  mansion,  and  Mr.  Benson  soon 
made  his  appearance,  dressed,  as  all  officials  dress  here,  ex- 
cept those  of  the  military  commission,  in  the  habit  of  a 
private  citizen.  He  received  us  with  a  good  deal  of  cordi- 
aUty,  and  the  ease  and  dignity  of  a  refined  gentleman  of  the 
Old  Virginia  school.  It  was  evident  that  he  knew  himself 
to  be  the  President,  and  the  lion  of  the  occasion,  yet  there 
was  an  entu-e  absence  of  the  i)atroniziug  airs  so  common  to 
high  officials,  and  throughout  our  interview  his  deportment 
was  cheerful  and  fiiultless,  and  worthy  of  the  president  of  a 
republic.  He  spoke  of  the  j^leasure  it  affijrded  him  to  meet 
with  American  gentlemen,  and  of  the  increasing  good  dis- 
position of  the  Americans  toward  his  government  by  send- 
ing them  a  commercial  agent.  Knowing,  by  previous 
acquaintance — for  I  had  liad  the  pleasure  of  breakfasting 
with  him  on  the  morning  of  his  inauguration — that  I  was 

1C2 


LIBERIA. 


163 


from  the  South,  he  asked  several  questions  regarding  south- 
ern interests,  and  shoAved,  by  subsequent  remarks,  an 
acquaintance  with  our  institutions,  laws,  and  history,  and  an 
expansiveness  of  view  in  regard  to  our  peculiar  institutions, 
which  would  do  credit  to  any  foreign  statesman.  In  per- 
son, Mr.  Benson  is  tall  and  well  proportioned,  is  about 
forty-five  years  of  age,  and  as  black  as  charcoal.  Judging 
from  the  following,  it  seems  that  the  intensity  of  his  color 
had  not  a  little  to  do  with  his  election. 

Captain  W.,  of  Virginia,  in  taking  a  walk  through  Mon- 
rovia, met  a  person  whom  he  had  known  many  j-ears  ago 
as  a  very  respectable  and  intelligent  slave  in  the  Old  Do- 
minion. There  was  a  mutual  recognition,  and  the  following 
dialogue  ensued : 

"  Why,  howd'y.  Buck  ?  I  hardly  expected  to  see  you 
here." 

Buck,  with  an  air  of  dignity — "  IIow  do  you  do.  Captain  ? 
I  glad  to  see  you  ;  but  they  don't  call  me  Buck  here  !" 
"  "What  do  they  call  you  ?" 

"  Oh,  I  keep  the  old  family  name,  of  course,  but  they 
call  me  Colonel  Brown,  if  you  please !" 

"  Well,  tell  me.  Buck — or  Colonel,  I  should  say — excuse 
me!" 

Colonel  (relentingly) — "My  old  friends  can  call  me  what 
they  please,  Cap'n." 

"  Very  good  lad  !  Tell  me  how  you  and  our  Virginia 
people  are  doing  here  ?" 

An  answer  followed,  in  which  the  Colonel  forgot  that  he 
was  a  Colonel,  and  throwing  off  his  studied  language  and 
manner,  gave  a  description  of  life  in  Liberia  which  ended 
thus: 


16i       PEESONAL  ADVENTCEE3  A^^)  OBSEEVATIOXS, 


"  So,  take  all  together,  we've  been  doin'  right  tollable 
smart.  Heap  o'  ups  an'  downs  ;  but  things  is  getting  bet- 
ter, an'  we  are  gettin'  sort  o'  used  to  nm  like." 

"Which  of  the  candidates  for  the  presidency  are  you 
going  to  vote  for?" 

"  Oh,  Benson,  sir !" 

"  Has  not  Roberts  made  you  a  good  President  ?" 
"  Oh,  yes." 

"  He  is  a  very  smart  man,"  continued  the  captain,  "  and 
much  respected  abroad.  I  think  you  had  better  vote  for 
him." 

"That's  all  true!" — Colonel  becomes  quite  animated — 
"But  the  fac's  just  this,  Mass  Whit' :  the  folks  say  as  how 
we  darkies  ain't  fitten  to  take  care  o'  ourselves — ain't  capa- 
ble. Roberts  is  very  fine  gentleman,  but  he's  raore  wJiite 
than  Hack,  an'  Mr.  Benson's  colored  people  all  over ! 
There's  no  use  talking  government,  an'  making  laws,  an' 
that  kind  o'  things,  if  they  ain't  going  to  keep  uni  up.  I 
vote  for  Benson,  sir,  case  I  wants  to  Tcnoio  if  xi^e^s  fjoing  to 
stay  nigger  or  turn  monkey  /" 

Certainly  a  purer  representative  of  the  Afiican  race  than 
Mr.  Benson  could  hardly  be  found,  an<l  beyond  expectation 
he  has  met  the  wishes  of  his  peo])le  in  executing  the  func- 
tions of  the  presidential  office.  Prudence  and  sound  judg- 
ment characterize  him  as  an  officer;  and  liis  messages, 
though  often  too  long  and  unnecessarily-  comprehensive,  and 
sometimes  a  little  pedantic,  are  marked  by  .'Strength  and 
clearness.  Of  their  genuineness,  those  who  know  him  have 
no  doubt.  He  has  lived  in  the  colony  and  republic  from  his 
infancy ;  was  educated  at  the  mission  schools,  and  has  had 
but  little  opportunity  for  travel  and  observation  abroad. 


LIBEEIA. 


165 


Politics  he  studied  from  American  text-books,  but  without 
practical  examjjles,  in  his  own  country,  of  much  value ;  yet 
he  is,  in  many  respects,  a  model  President. 

We  called  on  Ex-President  Roberts  and  family.  Mrs. 
and  Miss  Roberts  are  most  intelligent  and  interesting  per- 
sonages, sjjeak  English  and  French  fluently,  and  are,  in  all 
respects,  Avell-bred  and  refined.  I  suppose  that  they  have 
colored  blood  enough  in  them  to  swear  by,  but  they  might 
travel  through  every  State  in  the  Union  without  ever  being 
suspected  of  having  any  connection  with  the  sable  progeny 
of  Ham.  Miss  Roberts  is  a  blue-eyed  blonde,  havuig  light 
brown  hair  and  rosy  cheeks;  yet  she  is  a  genuine  African, 
in  the  Know  Nothing  sense  of  genuineness,  having  been 
born  in  the  woods  of  Liberia.  The  Ex-President  is  tall  and 
well  proportioned,  colorless  in  complexion — hope  the  reader 
can  tolerate  a  paradox — but  plainly  indicating  his  African 
extraction  by  a  very  kmky  head  of  wool,  of  which,  his 
friends  say,  he  is  very  2)roud.  We  have  spoken  of  his 
oflicial  character  in  the  tenth  chapter.  In  intellect  and 
moral  integrity  he  is  a  superior  man ;  and  in  the  interview 
of  that  morning  displayed  much  of  that  excellence  in  con- 
versation and  elegance  of  manner  that  have  rendered  him 
so  popular  in  the  courts  of  France  and  England.  The  best 
evidence  of  his  i)ractical  good  sense  was  displayed  in  a  visit 
Avhich  he  made,  a  few  years  ago,  to  his  colored  relatives  and 
while  friends  in  his  native  State,  Virginia.  In  every  circle 
he  knew  his  place,  and  conducted  himself  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  win  great  favor  among  bond  and  fi-ee.  Botli  the 
President  and  Ex-President  are  oflicial  members  of  the 
M.  E.  Church. 

In  ray  strolls  about  Monrovia,  I  dropped  occasionally  into 


16G       PEESOXAL  ADYEX'TUKES  A^'D  OESEEVATIONS. 


the  Senate  Chamber  to  hear  the  debates.  They  are  con- 
ducted m  a  very  unrepubUcan  manner,  namely,  "n  ith  great 
gravity  and  dignity,  and  -without  noise  and  personalities. 
Othello  might  address  them  in  truth  as  "  potent,  grave,  and 
reverend  signiors." 

Senators  Yates,  Lewis,  "Warner,  and  Russell,  are  men  of 
commanding  talents.  The  last  named  is  a  superior  debat- 
aut,  and,  invoice  and  manner,  reminded  me  much  of  Bishop 
Pierce,  of  the  Southern  Methodist  Church.  There  was  an 
Uncle  Xed  among  them  (^vill  the  Honorable  Mr.  Day  par- 
don our  famiUarity  for  the  sake  of  auld  lang  syne),  who, 
whenever  he  spoke,  afforded  me  some  of  those  hearty 
laughs  which  are  so  scarce  and  so  beneficial  among  African 
cruisers.  When  I  saw  him  last  on  the  floor,  he  had  on  a 
long-tailed,  brass-buttoned,  two-story-collared  blue  coat, 
such  as  "  Dandy  Jim  "  is  said  to  have  worn,  and  on  a  nose 
of  ample  latitude,  but  deficient  altitude,  he  had  mounted  a 
very  substantial  broad-shafted  pair  of  brass  spectacles.  His 
useful-looking  feet  were  as  firmly  planted  on  the  floor  as 
was  his  mind  on  the  jjosition  he  had  taken,  and  after  j^rov- 
ing,  from  the  Proverbs  of  Solomon,  that  his  view  of  the 
case  pendmg  was  the  only  one  in  the  least  degree  reason- 
able, or  consistent  with  the  laws  of  the  land,  he  called  for 
the  vengeance  of  heaven  on  the  Senate  if  they  Avonld  not 
decide  in  favor  of  his  side  of  the  question.  Yet  Uncle  Ned 
was  by  no  means  a  simj^leton  ;  and  despite  the  "  dees  "  and 
"  dens  "  so  abundant  in  his  speech,  it  was  not  without  wit 
and  point.  He  is,  no  doubt,  a  preacher,  for  I  have  never 
seen  a  negro  of  his  appearance  and  physiognomy  that  was 
not. 

In  the  House  there  is  less  talent  than  in  the  Senate,  but 


LIBEKLA.. 


167 


it  is  not  ■without  intelligent  and  honest  members.  I  once 
went  there  to  hear  a  debate  on  some  important  question 
relating  to  the  tariif,  but  during  my  stay  a  very  windy  and 
discursive  speaker  occupied  the  Avhole  time.  He  was  physi- 
cally and  mentally  lame,  and  though  of  bright  complexion 
was  very  duU  in  sense.  His  speech  was  a  tirade  of  abuse  on 
American  institutions,  nor  could  he  leave  the  favorite 
theme,  though  several  times  called  to  order.  The  sum  of 
his  argument  seemed  to  be,  that  the  little  black  boys  of  the 
southern  States  ought  to  be  allowed  to  dress  in  uniform  on 
the  Fourth  of  July,  and  parade  with  the  volunteer  com- 
panies. 

That  class  of  politicians  known  in  our  country  as  office- 
seekers,  have  a  few  representatives  in  Liberia.  They  would 
be  more  numerous,  but  la^vyer  legislation,  and  lawyers, 
have  not  yet  taken  root  in  Africa.  When  law  interpreta- 
tion and  pleading  shall  have  become  a  profession  there, 
professional  politicians,  numerous  and  hungry  as  the  lean 
kine,  will  soon  be  in  excess.  Liberia  has  not  yet  produced 
authors  worthy  of  attention,  but  there  are  two  ncAvspapers 
published  in  Monrovia,  wliich  often  contain  very  respectable 
original  contributions  and  editorials.  We  are  inclined  to 
think  that  the  Liberians,  as  well  as  ourselves,  have  made  a 
mistake  in  the  unqualified  liberty  given  to  the  press. 
Surely,  in  its  moral  tone,  an  engine  of  sucli  power  cannot 
be  too  powerfully  guarded. 

Among  the  pulpit  celebrities,  Herring,  of  the  Presby- 
terian church ;  Crummel,  who  is  an  A.  B.  of  Cambridge, 
England,  of  the  Episcopal  church  ;  and  Crocker,  Mattlicws 
and  Burns,  of  the  Methodist  church,  are  the  most  promi- 
nent.  They  arc  all  men  of  strength,  professional  attain- 


168       PEKSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


ments,  and  unquestioned  integrity.  Francis  Burns  has 
lately  been  in  America,  -where  he  was  ordained  bishop  of 
the  Methodist  Ejnscopal  church,  and  appointed  to  Liberia 
as  a  permanent  diocesan.  He  is  a  sweet-spirited,  noble 
minded,  intelligent  and  intellectual  man.  His  heart  is  as 
white  as  his  skin  is  black — and  that  is  saying  a  good  deal, 
for  the  ace  of  spades  is  but  a  shade  deeper — and  with  his 
intelligence,  moderation,  sound  judgment  and  l^iety,  the 
friends  of  the  church  may  be  sure  that  her  interests  are  safe 
in  his  hands.  Our  officers  who  have  heard  him  preach, 
speak  in  high  terms  of  his  pulpit  performances. 

"  Tell  our  southern  brethren,"  said  he,  as  we  took  an 
affectionate  farewell  of  him,  "  not  to  forget  us.  We  are 
their  peo2>le  by  sacred  ties.  A  missionary,  a  teacher,  or 
whatever  form  of  help  they  may  be  disposed  to  give  us,  will 
find  appreciation  and  welcome." 

Accompanying  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Williams  in 
a  walk  to  the  lighthouse  one  evening,  I  met  with  an  old 
friend,  formerly  a  slave  in  Georgia.  Sherman,  who  will 
be  remembered  by  some  of  my  readers  as  the  respected 
and  polite  sexton  of  Dr.  Preston's  church  in  Savannah, 
recognized  me  in  a  moment,  but  so  emaciated  and  altered 
in  his  appearance  was  he,  that  I  was  some  moments  in  call- 
ing him  to  mind,  though  I  once  knew  him  intimately.  He 
and  his  wife  have  lost  their  health,  I  fear  forever,  but  he  is 
able  to  work  a  little.  His  children  arc  industrious,  and  ho 
makes  a  comfortable  living.  I  called  on  his  family,  and 
after  conversing  awhile,  I  asked  him  what  I  should  tell  his 
friends  in  Georgia  about  his  prospects  in  Liberia.  Sherman 
is  a  sensible  man,  and  I  therefore  took  particular  note  of  his 
answer. 


I,IBEEIA. 


169 


"  Tell  them,"  said  he,  "  that  so  far  as  myself  and  wife  are 
concerned,  we  can  never  be  as  well  olf  and  comfortable,  in 
worldly  things,  as  wc  were  m  Savannah  ;  but  I  am  satisfied 
that  our  children  can  do  better  here  than  they  could  have 
done  there." 

I  mentioned  several  persons  in  Savannah  who  spoke  of 
eraisrratins;.    He  said : 

"Tell  Dcmoc  and  MoUy — servants  of  James  Kerr,  Esq. — 
that  they  have  lived  too  long  and  too  well  to  come  to  this 
country.  C.  and  M.  are  young  and  industrious — they  may 
come  ;  but  tell  them  not  to  exjiect  to  be  gentlemen  and  do 
nothing." 

I  saw  G.  W.  EUis  in  Monrovia.  lie  was  bought  by  the 
Synod  of  the  Presbyterian  church  in  Alabama,  and  sent  out 
as  missionary  in  1847.  When  sent  out,  he  was  a  good 
preacher,  a  fair  theologian,  and  knew  a  little  about  Latin 
and  Greek.  He  went  to  Liberia  with  an  excessive  idea  of 
his  own  attainments,  and  when  he  came  in  contact  with 
scholars  of  his  own  color  in  Monrovia,  he  was  made  to  feel 
that  his  acquirements  were  more  smatterings.  He  did  not 
reach  the  position  he  expected  to  occupy,  became  dis- 
couraged, neglected  his  church,  and,  as  a  natural  conse- 
quence, fell  mto  sin.  The  afflictions  through  which  he  has 
lately  passed  have  humbled  hun,  and  the  Ilev.  Mr.  Wilson 
has  hopes  that  he  will  yet  be  restored  and  made  useful.  To 
man}-,  "  a  little  learning  is  a  dangerous  thing." 

I  have  introduced  these  persons  to  throw  some  light  on  a 
question  asked  by  hundreds  in  the  South  in  regard  to  free 
persons  of  color,  or  those  about  to  be  made  free.  "  Shall 
we  send  them  to  Liberia  ?"  I  am  not  prepared  to  give  an 
unqualified  aflirmative  answer  to  this  question.    Mr.  B. 

8 


170       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

has  a  few  servants,  none  the  younger  for  having  seen  from 
forty  to  fifty  cotton  pickings,  and  none  the  stronger  for 
having  breakfasted  so  often  by  moonlight,  and  danced  so 
many  jubas  in  the  fence  corners  while  waiting  for  day-dawn, 
to  whom  lie  has  offered  freedom.  He  asked  me  if  he  ought 
to  send  them  to  Liberia,  assuring  me  that  they  w'anted 
to  go  and  that  he  was  willing  to  be  rid  of  them.  I 
answered : 

"  If  they  wish  to  go,  by  all  means  send  them  ;  but  let  me 
recommend  that,  if  you  have  any  interest  in  their  future 
happiness  and  comfort,  or  any  respect  at  all  for  humanity, 
you  first  knock  them  all  on  the  head  and  send  them 
embalmed." 

What  shall  we  do  with  our  free  population,  is  becoming  a 
serious  question.  To  permit  them  to  remain  and  increase 
in  the  southern  States,  where  they  are  often  made  the  dupes 
and  tools  of  bad  white  men  from  abroad,  and  where  too 
often  their  influence  over  the  slave  population  is  anything 
but  wholesome,  is  not  to  be  thought  of  by  the  friends  of  the 
black  man,  or  the  friends  of  the  South,  Those  southerners 
who  know  the  social  and  moral  condition  of  black  jicople  in 
the  northern  States,  have,  I  trust,  too  much  humanity  to 
send  them  there ;  but  if  they  would,  many  of  the  free 
States  have  enacted  laAvs  prohibiting  the  influx  of  such 
foreigners. 

What  shall  wc  do,  then  ? 

I  answer,  with  the  following  qualifications,  send  them  to 
Africa,  their  original  natural  home.  Send  none  who  are 
known  to  be  of  vicious  habits,  none  who  are  decrepit  or  in 
any  way  disqualified  for  active  labor,  none  who  are  over 
thirty-five  years  of  age.    Let  all  the  southern  States  do  as 


LIBEKIA. 


171 


Maryland  and  Vii-ginia  have  done :  provide  hj  law  for  the 
transfer  of  snch  persons  to  Liberia,  and  for  their  com- 
fortable establishment  there. 

Toniba,  and  countries  beyond  the  equator,  to  which  we 
shall  refer  hereafter,  offer  Avide  fields  for  colonial  establish- 
ments, but  now  that  we,  as  a  people,  have  undertaken  to 
provide  a  home  for  our  colored  peoijle  in  Liberia,  it  is  due 
her,  that  all  our  influence  shall  be  given  to  aid  and  establish 
her,  before  dividing  our  attention  with  other  colonies.  As 
a  nation,  we  should  acknowledge  the  independence  of 
Liberia  ;  she  needs  this  aid  and  encouragement ;  we  should 
do  it  in  obedience  to  the  golden  rule ;  we  should  do  it, 
because  the  civilized  world  regards,  and  justly,  Liberia  as 
an  American  enterprise ;  and  if  she  succeeds,  we  shall 
receive  honor,  if  she  fails,  blame  and  reproach  will  rest 
forever  on  America  and  American  civilization. 

Liberia  has  in  her  the  elements  of  success. 

"  Tbey  speak  the  tongue  that  Shakspcarc  spoke — 
The  faith  and  morals  hold,  which  Milton  held." 

If  we  continue  to  assist  in  developing  these  elements, 
she  M'ill  become  prosperous  and  great.  If  we  cease  our 
efforts  before  these  elements  are  fully  established,  and 
put  into  activity,  she  will  fail  of  accomplishing  her  two- 
fold mission  of  providing  a  home  for  our  people,  and  keep- 
ing open  a  wide  door  of  access  to  the  African  heathen  ;  and 
a  darker  cloud  will  settle  on  her  sky  than  has  ever  yet 
shadowed  her  palmy  plains. 

A  railroad  connecting  Monrovia  with  Carysburg,  or  some 
other  high  and  healthy  location  of  the  interior,  would  be  a 
great  blessing  to  emigrants  and  missionaries  in  Liberia,  and 


172       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEE8  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


a  valuable  aid  in  tbe  agricultural  and  commercial  develop- 
ment of  the  republic  generally.  Such  a  road  could  be  built 
for  $900,000. 

England  has  presented  the  republic  with  a  vessel  of  war; 
France  has  made  her  valuable  presents,  and  proposes  to  add 
another  vessel  to  her  little  navy,  A  railroad  would  be  an 
appropriate  present  from  Amei'ica,  and  one  which  would  be 
of  permanent  use  in  missionary  operations. 

The  national  structure  that  we  have  surveyed  iu  these 
chapters  on  Liberia,  is  the  fruit  of  the  labors  of  the  Ameri- 
can Colonization  Society  and  her  auxiliaries,  a  benevolent 
organization,  than  which,  in  its  success  and  good  results, 
none  in  the  history  of  the  world  has  been  more  successful. 
The  blessing  of  God  has  been  upon  it,  and  it  commends 
itself  to  the  confidence  and  cooperation  of  Christian  and 
charitable  men,  south  and  north. 

In  the  course  of  our  last  visit  to  Monrovia,  I  visited  the 
grave  of  Melville  B.  Cox,  formerly  of  the  Virginia  Con- 
ference, the  first  Methodist  missionary  to  Liberia,  It  is 
marked  by  a  plain  marble  pedestal  and  shaft  six  feet  in 
height,  which  bears  an  unostentatious  inscription,  containing 
his  name,  the  year  of  his  birth,  his  landing  in  Africa,  and 
his  death.  As  I  stood  among  the  tangled  shrubbery  and 
waving  palras  which  cast  their  fragrance  and  shade  on  his 
lowly  bed,  I  heard  again  his  dying  utterance,  as  a  voice 
from  under  the  altar,  crying,  "O  Lord,  how  long!  Though 
a  thousand  should  fall,  Africa  must  be  redeemed,"  were  the 
fervid  words  of  his  departing  breath.  May  they  never  cease 
to  echo  about  the  altars  of  soutlicrn  Methodism,  until  as  a 
church  we  meet  the  peculiar  claims  which  the  long  neglected 
tribes  of  Africa  have  upon  us,  and  the  outstretched  hands 


LEBEEIA. 


173 


of  Ethiopia  are  filled  with  the  blessings  of  the  Gospel  of 
Christ. 

Our  beloved  brethren,  Wilson  and  Williams,  of  the 
Presbyterian  mission,  accompanied  ns  to  the  beach  as  we 
embarked  for  the  last  time,  and  their  prayers  and  blessings 
went  with  us  to  the  laud  of  their  homes  and  their  love. 
We  left  our  old  colored  acquaintances  and  friends  in  Liberia 
with  a  degree  of  sadness  and  anxiety — such  feelings  as 
those  have,  who  part  company  with  a  frail  and  feebly- 
manned  boat  far  out  at  sea,  praying  that  He  whose  paths 
are  on  the  deep,  and  who  rideth  upon  the  wings  of  the 
wind,  will  hold  the  storms  in  His  hand,  and  bid  the  Av^tv^'s 
be  still,  until  they  have  gained  a  safe  and  quiet  haven. 


CHAPTER  XY. 


CAPE  PALilAS. 

Annexation  of  Maryland  to  the  Republic  of  Liberia — The  Cape — Dead 
Island — The  Lagoon — Orphan  Asylum — Palmas,  Harper,  Cavalla — 
Grebo  town — Want  of  Beauty  in  African  Scenery — Governors  of  the 
Colony,  Management,  etc. — The  Mare  that  wouldn't  go — Strife  Engen- 
dered—The War— The  Treaty  of  Peace— The  Results  of  the  War- 
Bishop  Payne. 

Befoee  passing  to  the  Gold  Coast,  Ave  must  devote  a  few 
paragraphs  to  Cape  Palmas,  the  principal  settlement  of  the 
State  of  Maryland  in  Liberia. 

In  the  tenth  chapter,  on  Liberia,  we  have  referred  to  the 
origin  of  the  colony  of  Maryland,  and  its  annexation  to  the 
ReiDublic  of  Liberia,  in  1857.  The  union  of  this  indepen- 
dent State  with  Liberia  was  long  desired  by  the  friends  of 
African  colonization,  to  give  unity  to  American  operations 
on  the  coast,  and  for  the  mutual  strengthening  of  the  state 
and  the  repubUc.  The  event  was  hastened  by  a  war,  Avhich 
took  place  between  the  colonists  and  natives,  at  Cape  Pal- 
mas, in  January,  1857,  and  which,  but  for  the  opportune 
arrival  of  an  English  war-steamer,  and  a  regiment  of  Libe- 
rian  soldiers,  headed  by  Ex-President  Roberts,  would  have 
resulted  iu  the  total  destruction  of  the  colonists,  and  per- 
haps with  them  of  the  American  missionaries. 

The  cape  from  which  this  settlement  takes  it  name,  is  a 
rocky  promontory,  one  hundred  feet  high,  which  extends 
into  the  Atlantic  some  three-quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  the 

174 


CAPE  PALMAS. 


175 


line  of  the  coast.  To  the  southward  of  the  cape,  and  a  few 
hundred  yards  distant,  stands  an  island  of  barren  rock,  an 
acre  or  two  in  extent.  This  is  called  Dead  Island  by  the 
traders  of  the  coast ;  and  here,  until  within  a  few  years, 
the  adjacent  tribes  deposited  their  dead,  without  tomb  or 
covering.  The  abolition  of  this  mode  of  disposing  of  the 
dead,  and  many  other  inhumanities,  has  attended  the  labors 
of  the  missionaries.  Commencing  at  the  base  of  the  land- 
Avard  slope  of  the  cape,  and  tending  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion, is  a  lagoon  of  fresh  water,  half  a  mile  wide  and  six 
miles  long,  which  receives  several  small  streams,  and  is 
sejiarated  from  the  ocean  by  a  bank  of  red  sand,  thrown  up 
by  the  action  of  the  waves.  In  this  lake,  as  it  may  be 
termed,  fish  are  abundant ;  and  when,  in  the  evening,  it  is 
dotted  over  with  the  canoes  of  fishermen,  and  reflects  the 
golden  hues  of  the  declining  sun,  and  the  lowing  herds  ga- 
ther upon  its  banks,  it  presents  a  charming  picture. 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  cape,  which  is  near  its  sea- 
ward extremity,  stands  the  light-house,  and  near  it  the  Or- 
phan Asylum  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  mission  of  Ame- 
rica. The  Asylum  is  a  large,  commodious,  and  substantial 
cruciform  building  of  two  stories ;  the  lower  stoiy,  or  base- 
ment, is  stone,  and  the  upper,  wood.  In  the  rear  of  these 
buildings,  and  sep^v'^ted  from  them  by  a  natural  grove  of 
palms,  cocoanuts,  and  other  tropical  trees,  is  the  little  town 
of  Cupe  l*almas,  and  a  mile  to  the  eastward  is  another  town 
of  Americo-Africans,  called  Harper.  Between  these  towns, 
until  the  late  war,  stood  a  native  village  of  two  thousand 
inhabitants,  representatives  of  the  Grcbo  tribe ;  a  savage, 
treacherous  and  warHkc  people.  Twelve  miles  from  Har- 
per is  Cavalla,  on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  where  there  is 


176        PEESONAI.  ADVENTUKES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 


a  village  of  Christianized  uatives,  and  the  Episcopal  resi- 
dence and  schools  of  Bishop  Payne. 

The  countiy  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Palraas  may  receive 
tlie  same  geological  and  topograjjhical  classification  as  that 
of  Sierra  Leone  and  Monrovia.  It  is,  perhaps,  higher  than 
that  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Monro\-ia,  is  magnificently 
timbered,  and  rises  gradually  toward  the  interior,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach  by  means  of  a  telescope,  and  to  an  eleva- 
tion above  the  beach,  of  two  hundred  feet.  A  shallow  and 
impetuous  stream,  called  Hofiman  River,  disembogues  near 
the  western  slope  of  the  cape. 

If  we  could  survey  African  scenery  as  wc  do  "  the  mag- 
nificent distances"  and  landscapes  of  our  own  country,  we 
should  say  that  the  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  beautiful  be- 
yond description  ;  but  the  wilduess  and  mystery  which  are 
associated  iu  our  minds  with  everything  in  Africa,  are  in- 
compatible with  the  idea  of  beauty.  Grand,  even  subluue, 
we  may  say  it  is  ;  but  in  a  landscape  where  the  useful  herd, 
the  cultivated  field,  the  fruitful  garden,  the  home  where  hu- 
man happuiess  and  love  may  dwell  are  wanting,  we  can 
scarcely  find  that  which  awakens  the  emotion  of  beauty. 

The  lands  on  which  the  colony  of  Maryland  is  located, 
were  purchased  from  the  Grebos  by  the  Maryland  Coloni- 
zation Society  (U.  S.),  in  1833  ;  to  whicli  another  tract  was 
added  in  1836.  Subsequent  purchases  have  greatly  enlarged 
the  territory,  so  that  at  the  time  of  its  annexation  to  the 
republic  of  Liberia  it  must  have  possessed  a  sea-coast  of 
near  two  Imndrcd  miles.  The  depth  of  this  tract,  interior- 
wise,  has  never  been  definitely  settled  ;  but  may  be  consid- 
ered as  running  parallel  with  the  line  of  the  shore  at  a  dis- 
tance of  thirty  miles. 


CAPE  PA  T.MAS. 


177 


The  governors  of  the  colony,  since  183  7,  have  been  colored 
men  ;  but,  until  it  became  an  independent  state,  acting  un- 
der the  supervision  of  the  Society.  During  the  administra- 
tion of  Russwurm,  six  neighboring  kings  voluntarily  ceded 
their  territory  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  colony.  The  popu- 
lation was  then  one  hundred;  in  1857  it  ■was  near  twelve 
hundred.  The  government  of  the  state  has  been  prudently 
and  successfully  conducted  ;  and  it  now  stands  an  honor  to 
the  Colonization  Society  of  Maryland,  and  a  praise  to  the 
noble  State  which,  by  annual  appropriations  of  money,  and 
reinforcements  of  emigrants,  has  increased  the  population 
and  established  them  in  comfortable  homes. 

The  agents  of  the  Society,  in  jiurchasing  this  territory, 
readily  accepted  the  condition  that  the  natives  should  re- 
tain their  villages  and  the  lands  then  under  cultivation. 
This  they  did,  supposing  that  the  natives  resident  in  the 
territory  would  assist  in  defending  the  colonists  against  the 
encroachments  of  other  tribes  ;  and  that,  by  contact  with 
the  civilized  blacks,  they  would  more  readily  submit  to 
civilization  and  Christianity.  For  a  time,  these  results 
seemed  to  be  working  out.  The  natives  assisted  in  building 
their  houses,  and  even  a  fort ;  aped  some  of  their  manners, 
and  attempted  to  learn  their  language.  The  colonists,  in 
turn,  shared  with  the  natives  their  tobacco — blessed  plant ! 
bedewed  with  the  fragrant  rum  of  New  England,  the  peace 
branch  of  modern  civilization  ! — took  their  medicines  when 
sick,  the  best  proof  in  the  world  of  friendship ;  learned  to 
fisli  and  hunt  in  tlic  African  fashion  ;  and,  for  aught  I  know 
to  the  contrary,  gathered  the  mysteries  of  detecting  witches 
and  catching  young  devils — arts  in  which  tlie  Grobos  excel. 
The  natives  went  to  hear  the  missionaries  preach,  professed 

8* 


178        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OESEKVATIONS. 


to  embrace  Christianity,  because  tbey  thought  it  would 
please  the  white  men,  offered  their  idol  grisgris  at  the  low 
rate  of  a  plug  each,  or  a  canoeful  for  a  bottle  of  rum. 
They  were  going  into  civilization  with  seven  league  strides 
— railroad  speed  was  nothing  compared  to  it — but  the  pro- 
gress was  suddenly  arrested.  "  Money  makes  the  mare  go," 
but  in  this  case  the  oats  gave  out.  The  land  agents  paid 
up ;  the  missionaries  found  out,  on  closer  survey,  that  their 
newly-gathered  flocks  wei-e  wolves  in  sheep's  clothing,  and 
arch  deceivers.  They  ceased  to  make  presents,  and  began 
on  more  common-sense  principles.  As  to  the  colonists, 
poor  fellows,  they  were  soon  past  the  giving  point,  and 
where  the  maxim,  "  it  is  more  blessed  to  give  than  to  re- 
ceive," met  an  exception,  and  turned  back  inverted. 

The  chiefs  now  began  to  see  the  elTect  of  selling  their 
territory,  and  signing  the  treaty  against  illegal  traftic,  in 
the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade,  which  followed  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  colony  and  the  mission.  This  had  been 
the  source  of  their  revenue,  and  furnished  the  means  and 
incentives  to  war  and  plunder.  They  had  not  then,  as  many 
of  them  have  since,  seen  the  advantages  of  civilization,  and 
felt  the  power  of  that  Truth,  before  which  men  must  bow 
or  fall.  They  saw,  in  short,  that  they  must  labor,  or  do 
without  the  rum  and  tobacco,  and  beads  and  gay  kerchiefs, 
so  abundant  in  the  days  of  the  slave-trade.  Unman  nature, 
African  nature  in  pai'ticular,  hates  work ;  and  with  the 
work,  those  natives  soon  learn  to  hate  those  who  brought 
the  necessity  for  it,  in  any  degree,  upon  them.  This  hatred 
was  deepened  by  the  discovery  that  between  themselves 
and  the  colonists  there  was  fixed  an  impassable  gulf  of  caste. 
The  dislike  became  nnitual.    The  colonists  did  not  hide 


CAPE  PAXMAS. 


179 


that  they  considered  the  natives  little  better  than  brutes, 
and  the  natives  despised  them  in  turn,  for  putting  on  the 
clothes  and  manners  of  white  men,  while  their  skins  were 
black. 

Then  commenced,  in  feeling,  a  war,  not  of  races,  but  of 
the  culottes  and  the  sans  culottes  /  savage  nature  and  civil- 
ized taste.  The  superiority  of  the  colonists  over  the  natives 
in  arms,  ingenuity,  industry  and  comfort ;  their  increasing- 
numbers  and  commerce,  and  the  respect  shown  them  by 
men-of-war  on  the  coast,  was  constantly  increasing  the  hatred 
of  the  former,  and  showing  itself  in  frequent  ijorsonal  encoun- 
ters between  the  parties,  and  complaints  and  menaces, 
without  sufficient  cause,  on  tlie  part  of  the  natives.  For  the 
last  three  years  of  the  hardly  preserved  peace,  the  flags  of  the 
native  village  waved  in  terrorem  over  the  trembling  colonists, 
who  lived  in  constant  dread  of  an  outbreak.  To  be  prepared 
for  such  a  probability,  the  colonists  formed  themselves  into  a 
military  company  one  hundred  strong ;  but  their  equipment 
was  bad,  and  their  discipline  worse;  and,  worst  of  all,  the 
native  village  stood  between  the  towns  of  the  colonists,  and 
contained  five  hundred  warriors,  thirsting  for  blood,  and 
armed  to  the  teeth  with  knives,  spears  and  muskets. 

In  the  course  of  December  1856,Governor  Dayton  received 
infoiTuation  that  the  natives  Averc  secretly  preparing  for  a 
descent  on  the  colonists,  and  that  the  time  was  set,  and  as- 
sistance called  in.    lie  promptly  called  on  the  prince.  Yellow 
Will,  and  held  a  palaver  with  liim  and  his  head  men.  '* 
which  the  governor  was  given  to  understand  that-'-'^"^'^* 
attack  had  been  in  conteni])lation,  but  was  a«)r  thought  it 
In  the  early  part  of  January,  1857,  thf^cUow  Will  refused 
advisable  to  call  another  palaver 


180        PEESOJTAL  ADVKNTLKES  A2sD  OBSERVATIOXS. 


to  attend,  after  three  invitations  followed  by  threats.  The 
colonists  received  tiais  as  evidence  of  his  unfriendly  inten- 
tions, and  a  sufficient  cause  for  war.  They  arranged  a  plan 
of  attack,  and,  ere  the  natives  were  aware,  were  upon  them 
with  fire  and  sword.  Torches  were  thrown  among  the 
thickly  clustered  huts,  which  being  composed  of  bamboo 
and  palm-leaf  thatch,  burat  like  dry  stubble.  The  warriors 
fled  without  their  anus,  and  were  received  by  volleys  of 
musketry  from  men  in  ambush.  The  women  and  chil- 
dren were  suffered  to  escape  unmolested,  but  it  is  said 
that  several  children  and  old  persons  perished  in  the 
flames. 

Xot  satisfied  with  routing  the  natives  and  destroying 
their  >Tlllage,  the  colonists,  flushed  with  victory,  proceeded, 
after  resting  a  few  days,  to  caiTy  the' war  into  Africa,  by 
attacking  the  natives  at  Half  Greh'n'ey,  a  village  at  which 
they  had  encamped,  some  six  miles  from  Harper.  The  for- 
mer took  their  two  field-pieces,  and  divided  into  companies 
— one  of  twenty-five  men  in  a  large  canoe,  taking  one  of  the 
guns,  while  the  other,  of  seventy  men,  dragged  their  gun 
and  proceeded  along  the  beach  of  the  lagoon.  Before 
arriving  at  the  expected  scene  of  action,  they  were  sur- 
prised and  surrounded  by  an  ambushed  party  of  several 
hundred  natives.  The  men  from  the  boat  had,  I  suppose 
from  the  effect,  fixed  their  gun  athwart  ships,  and,  forget- 
ting to  allow  for  the  recoil,  fired  it  off  in  that  situa- 
tion. The  narrow  boat  capsized,  of  course,  and  those 
were  not  drowned  were  shot  in  the  water  by  the 
Tlie  pa. 

mg  the  adage  th'asi'e  was  in  great  disorder,  and  remember- 


CAPE  PALMAS. 


181 


"  He  who  fights  and  runs  away, 
May  live  to  fight  another  day," 

took  to  their  heels,  leaving  the  field-piece  to  the  enemy, 
and  went  into  town  at  the  rate  of  a  great  many  miles  per 
hour !  Hei-e  they  remained  in  a  state  of  defence,  until  the 
arrival  of  further  aid.  Commodore  Crabbe  received  a 
request,  by  a  runner,  who  came  up  in  a  canoe,  while  at  Mon- 
rovia, to  scud  a  vessel  for  the  jirotection  of  the  American 
missionaries  at  Cape  Palmas.  On  arriving  at  Porto  Praya, 
he  dispatched  the  U.  S.  sloop  St.  Louis  to  their  assistance. 
The  arrival  of  the  St.  Louis,  together  with  other  forces, 
so  awed  the  natives,  that  they  sent  in  to  sue  for  j^eace.  A 
palaver  was  held,  conducted  by  Commander  Livingston  and 
Ex-President  Roberts  on  the  part  of  the  colonists,  and  by 
Prince  Yellow  Will  and  his  chiefs  on  the  part  of  the  natives. 
A  treaty  was  concluded,  which,  like  most  treaties  in  such 
cases  made  and  provided,  required  the  natives  to  submit 
quietly  to  their  chastisement,  pledge  themselves  to  presei-ve 
peace  for  the  future,  and  to  jjay  several  hundred  measures 
of  rice  in  a  given  time  to  compensate  for  a  mission  church, 
and  other  American  premises,  which  they  destroyed  by  fire 
in  their  flight.  So  closed  a  fair  specimen  of  the  colonial 
wars  on  the  West  Coast. 

Tliis  war  has  produced  two  good  results.  It  hastened  the 
annexation  of  Maryland  to  Liberia,  and  removed  the  native 
village  from  tiie  place  which  it  occupied  in  the  midst  of  the 
principal  town  of  the  State ;  but  its  moral  effects  on  the 
native  must  bo  bad  indeed.  They  consider  the  destruction 
of  their  town  an  infraction  of  the  treaty  between  them  and 
the  colonists;  and  the  dcstructiou  of  the  children  and  infirm 


183       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


persons  who  perished  in  the  flames  will  be  cherished  with 
feelings  of  resentment  for  many  genei'ations.  The  chiefs 
claim  that  they  hold  Bishop  Payne  and  his  white  brethren  in 
great  respect,  and  that  the  burnmg  of  the  mission  premises 
was  done  without  authority  from  them. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


CAFE  PALMAS — COXTUOTED. 

Favorable  Impressions — A  Word  for  Monrovia — General  Superiority  of 
the  Southern  over  the  Northern  Black — The  Great  Obstacle  to  Im- 
provement— Climate,  Soil,  Sugar-Cane,  Coffee — An  Opening  for  Enter- 
prising Planters — Steam  Liners — Palm  Oil,  etc. — P.  E.  Mission  Schools 
and  Churches — Bishop  Payne — A  Word  to  Episcopalians — Georgians 
at  Cape  Palmas — The  Grebos — Miss  M.  E.  B.  Staunton,  M.  E.  Mis- 
sionary. 

Ox  entering  the  settlement  of  Cape  Palmas,  we  were  struck 
■\rith  the  number  and  the  cultivation  of  the  gardens,  the 
neat  and  cleanly  aspect  of  the  houses,  and  the  comfortable 
appearance  of  the  people.  Evidences  of  thrift  and  industry- 
are  abundant ;  and  though  there  arc  here  no  large  private 
dwellings  to  compare  fovorably,  m  ])oiut  of  taste  and  con- 
venience, with  a  few  of  the  better  class  in  Monrovia,  the 
houses  are  generally  more  comfortable ;  and,  what  is  still 
better,  the  town  is  entirely  free  from  beggars,  and  such 
whining  idlers  as  are  often  met  with  in  the  capital  of  Liberia. 
Justice  to  the  Liberiaus  requires  us  to  say,  however,  that 
they  are  more  industrious  than  the  appearance  of  persons 
and  thmgs  in  Monrovia  would  indicate. 

Most  of  the  hidustrious  and  cuterpi  ising  people  of  the 
republic  are  iu  the  country  on  their  farms,  or  pursuing  some 
craft  iu  the  villages  of  the  interior,  while  in  Monrovia  the 
poor  congregate,  or  rather  remain ;  and  the  barbers  and 
fiddlers  and  banjo-players  of  northern  cities,  who  cannot 

1S3 


184:       PERSONAL  ADVKNTUEES  AJSTD  OBSERVATIONS. 


Tbring  their  delicate  fingers  to  liandle  the  hoe  or  the  axe, 
loiter  about  the  streets  doing  "  chores "  as  they  are  com- 
pelled by  hunger,  steal  fruit  from  the  gardens,  or  compose 
tales  of  woe  to  pour  into  the  ears  of  visitors  to  excite  small- 
change  sympathy. 

It  is  a  great  pity  that  such  cattle  should  be  sent  to  the 
colonies.  If  they  cannot  be  made  useful  at  homo,  measures 
should  be  taken  for  their  extermination — drowning  them  ui 
pairs,  for  instance.  When  the  sable  Beau  Brummeil  gets 
here,  he  finds  that,  like  Othello,  "his  occupation's  gone," 
but,  unUke  Othello,  he  has  no  desire  to  learn  any  other.  He 
soon  becomes  more  ragged  than  any  of  Falstafi^s  recruits 
ever  were,  and  finds  himself  perfectly  '■'■free''''  to  choose 
between  work  and  starvation.  He  splits  the  difference,  and 
returning  to  original  prmcijiles,  bare  head,  bare  feet,  and 
fig-leaf  apron,  takes  a  few  lessons  from  his  fi-iends,  the 
monkeys,  and  seeks  his  daUy  bread  among  the  palm  and 
cocoa-nut  trees  of  the  neighboring  woods. 

The  very  worthy  author  of  "Africa  and  the  American 
Flag  "  concluded  a  priori.,  that  colored  persons  originally 
from  the  slave  States  are  not  so  industrious  as  persons  of  the 
same  color  who  have  always  been  free.  Our  observations 
in  Liberia  led  us  to  the  opposite  conclusion,  and  we  were 
confirmed  in  the  correctness  of  that  opinion  by  our  observa- 
tions at  Cape  Palmas. 

The  coninmnitics  of  the  repubhc  were  made  up  of  persons 
from  both  free  and  slave  States ;  tliis  colony  was  formed  by 
persons  of  the  slave  States  exclusively,  yet  I  doubt  if  there 
is  a  community  in  Liberia  of  the  size  and  means  of  the 
Maryland  colony  that  can  show  more  evidences  of  industry. 
I  am  aware  that  freed  slaves  are  not  very  industrious,  as  a 


CAPE  PALMAS. 


185 


class  ;  and  I  ara  aware  also  that,  as  a  class,  the  fi-ee  colored 
persons  of  the  North  and  East  are  not  industrious.  Mr. 
Chambers,  of  Edinburgh,  in  his  notes  of  a  tour  in  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  says  of  them  that  they  are  the  most 
improvident,  indolent,  and  wretched  people  in  America. 
The  difference,  as  presented  in  the  colonies,  between  the 
freed  slave  and  the  negro  ^\■]lO  has  grown  up  after  the  man- 
ner of  his  kind  in  the  free  States,  without  a  trade  or  habits 
of  labor,  is  this :  the  former  knoios  how  to  work,  and  will 
stoop  to  it  rather  than  suffer,  and  that,  too,  without  con- 
sidering it  much  of  a  hardship ;  the  latter  knows  but  little, 
generally  nothing,  about  such  labor  as  is  profitable  here,  and 
if  he  maderstood  the  modes,  such  has  been  the  character  of 
his  i^hysical  education,  that  he  but  seldom  has  the  strength 
to  endure  it.  Again :  Whatever  may  be  the  occasion  of  it, 
the  colored  man  of  the  South  has  in  him  a  degree  of  per- 
sonal pride  and  ambition,  such  as  the  colored  man  brought 
up  in  communities  where  he  is  told  that  he  is  free,  and  yet 
shut  out  from  respectable  society  and  in  every  respect  de- 
graded socially,  has  not.  In  obedience  to  the  promptings 
of  these  principles,  the  former  may  loorJc,  but  the  latter 
cannot  dig,  and  alas !  to  beg  he  is  not  ashamed. 

The  great  obstacle  to  improvement  among  all  the  trans- 
planted people  on  the  coast,  lias  been  the  idea,  brouglit  with 
them  from  America,  that,  when  they  reached  Africa,  they 
should  become  ladies  and  gentlemen,  doctors,  lawyers  and 
senators,  merchants,  and  so  on,  at  once  ;  and,  oh  delectable 
vision !  all  without  work.  Experience,  that  successful  in- 
structress, has  tried  to  enlighten  them  on  this  subject,  and, 
by  hard  knocks,  has  succeeded  in  several  instances ;  but 
there  are  some  hopeless  scholars  left  yet,  who,  intent  upon 


186       PEESOXAL  ADVEXTCEES  ASD  OESEEVATIOXS. 


realizing  theii'  dreams,  are  going  through  the  motions  /  and 
I  verily  believe  that,  often  against  the  testimony  of  their 
stomachs  and  backs,  many  have  almost  persuaded  them- 
selves that  they  are  all  they  expected  to  be — rich,  grand, 
■wise  and  great.  But  our  hope  is  in  the  next  generation ; 
and  that  hope  is  not  \vithout  some  rational  basis. 

The  climate  of  Cape  Palmas,  as  indicated  by  meteorolo- 
gical observations,  is  like  that  of  Monrovia,  but,  though 
nearer  the  equator,  I  think  that  it  is  more  healthy  than 
Monrovia,  and  that  the  mortahty  among  missionaries  and 
emigrants  here  has  been  less  than  at  that  place.  The  soil  in 
this  A-icinity  is  on  the  elevations,  argillaceous,  tophaceous 
and  feiTuginous  ;  loamy  alluvium  on  the  bottoms ;  and  bear- 
ing everjTvhere,  except  on  the  steeper  ridges,  a  good  surface 
of  vegetable  mold.  Sugar-cane,  the  arundo  saccharifera, 
thrives  "well  here,  as  it  does  in  most  places  on  the  West 
Coast.  It  is  generally  twelve  feet  in  length,  averaging 
seven  or  eight  inches  in  the  joint,  and  two  inches  in  dia- 
meter. 

The  statement  will  seem  incredible  to  many  of  our 
Louisiana  planters,  but  we  make  it  on  the  authority  of  a 
most  resijectable  white  missionary,  himself  once  a  West 
India  planter  (Rev.  John  Seys),  that  on  the  average  land  of 
Liberia  8,000  pounds  of  sugar  per  acre  may  be  produced. 
The  cane  matures,  bearing  seed  tassel,  in  nine  months.  The 
same  variety  in  the  West  Indies  requires  twelve  months  for 
full  maturity.  Coffee  is  here  fast  becoming  a  giand  staple 
in  agriculture  and  trade.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Scott  of  the  Epis- 
copal Mission,  formerly  of  Virginia,  and  who  is  by  no 
means  a  visionary,  has  suggested  that  it  would  be  profitable 
to  American  planters  to  take  lease  on  lands  out  here  (white 


CAPE  PAJJIAS.  187 

men  cawaot  pii7'chase  real  estate  in  the  republic),  plant  them 
in  coffee,  furnish  agricultural  implements,  etc.,  employ  colo- 
nists and  natives  to  ■vrork,  and  yisit  the  coast  annually  to  sell 
the  crop.  The  quality  of  this  coffee  has  been  ftiUy  tested, 
and  is  found  superior  to  any  produced  in  South  America.  I 
doubt  not  that  a  company  fonned  for  the  above-named  pur- 
pose, or  for  the  production  of  sugar,  would  realize  hand- 
some returns  fi'om  their  investments.  There  are  intelligent 
and  reliable  colored  men  leaving  the  States  every  year  fully 
competent  to  take  charge  of  such  plantations ;  and  besides, 
the  planting  and  crop-gathering  seasons  arc  sufficiently 
healthy  to  allow  of  the  residence  of  white  superintendents 
without  serious  risk  of  life. 

The  day  is  not  distant  when  steam  communication  wUl  be 
established  between  the  United  States  and  Liberia,  and  her 
exhaustless  fields  be  brought  witliin  fourteen  days  of  our 
own  shores.  Already  the  interests  of  American  commerce 
demand  the  establishment  of  such  a  line,  and  the  general 
government  should  extend  its  aid  in  such  an  enterprise, 
before  England  and  France  take  the  field  from  us.  Already 
the  steam  liners  between  England  and  Fernando  Po  touch 
at  Monrovia,  and  it  is  said  that  arrangements  are  making 
Avith  the  company  to  have  them  stop  at  Cape  Palmas  also. 
Of  the  125,000  gallons  of  palm  oil  annually  exported  from 
this  place,  American  i>inchasers  get  50,000  gallons.  The 
other  exports  are  pepper  and  camwood.  The  revenue  of 
Maryland,  the  year  previous  to  its  annexation  to  Liberia, 
was  about  $2,000,  derived  from  a  light  duty  on  certain 
imports. 

Tlie  dominant  religious  influence  here  is  Episcopalianism. 
Perhaps  among  the  colonists,  the  Methodists  are  most 


188        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  A^'D  OBSEEVATIONS. 


numerous,  but  with  the  natives  the  Episcopalians  have  been 
more  successful.  They  have  reduced  the  prevailing  lan- 
guage, Grebo,  to  writing,  and  have  translated  into  it  many 
excellent  works,  including  portions  of  the  Scriptures,  some 
hyimis,  and  portions  of  the  liturgy.  "We  give  below  a  speci- 
men of  this  euphonious  tongue.*  Their  schools  are  numer- 
ous, and  are  conducted  on  principles  which  promise  perma- 
nent results  to  the  church  and  civilization  in  Africa.  They 
have  nine  mission  schools,  and  as  many  chm'ches,  within 
twenty-five  miles  of  Cape  Palmas.  These,  with  tliree  or 
fonr  stations  in  Liberia  proper,  make  up  the  African  diocese 
of  the  Protestant  Ejjiscopal  Church.  Bishop  J.  Payne,  D.D., 
formerly  of  Virginia,  is  the  most  popular  missionary  on  the 
coast,  and  justly  so.  The  many  years  of  self-sacrificing  de- 
votion which  he  has  given  to  his  work  in  Africa,  his  accom- 
plishments, his  cathoUc  spirit,  his  zeal,  his  known  trust- 
worthiness, have  made  his  name  kuown  and  beloved,  even 
by  the  savage  hordes  who  reject  his  religion.  The  absence 
in  him  of  the  ridiculous  exclusiveuess  and  arrogant  claims 
which  render  so  many  of  his  denomination  in  America  un- 
profitable laborei-s  and  imlovable  brethren,  has  gained  for 
him  the  confidence  and  love  of  the  missionaries  of  other 
churches.  TVitli  such  persons  as  Bishop  Payne,  Rev.  Mr. 
IIofi"man  and  his  noble  lady,  the  missionary  martyr,f  wlio, 

*  Ncnh  Dade  dada  Gyule,  a  po  na,  "  nyene  ne  mia  nvama  bch  mua 
Babo,  Blioranh,  Bubli,  Sible  kc  Babo  ah  orenh  nonh  we,  kba  gedic,  oh 
mu  nah  nyiuc  na  tc.  Boh  po  na,  oh  ye  na  na  tc,  uenh  oh  mu  no  ma 
Lwanh." 

Then  Dade  called  Orulc  and  said,  "  to-raorroiv  morning  go  to  Blioranh, 
Bubli,  Sible,  and  all  the  Babo  towns,  and  hire  them  to  get  your  wife  for 
you.  If  she  is  not  obtained  we  will  make  war." — Caoalla  Messenger,  W. 
Africa. 

f  The  Rev.  Geo.  Cummings,  D.D.,  has  given  U3  an  interesting  bio- 


CAPE  PAI3EAS. 


189 


though  dead,  yet  sjieaketh,  Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Scott,  of 
Virginia,  our  beloved  friend,  Rev.  J.  Rambo  and  his  accom- 
plished wife,  and  Miss  Williford,  from.  Savannah,  the  Epis- 
copal Church  of  America  may  consider  herself  well  and 
ably  rejiresented  in  this  land  of  deep  shadows.  Besides 
these  whit«  persons,  there  are  six  colored  ministers,  three 
of  whom  are  natives,  and  over  twenty  assistants  and  teachers, 
half  of  whom  are  natives.  In  her  litiu-gy  this  church  pos- 
sesses an  instrument  of  usefulness  and  influence  over  the 
heathen  mind  such  as  no  other  American  church  possesses, 
"We  si>eak  of  human  instrumentalities,  of  course. 

The  Orphan  Asylum,  to  Avhich  reference  is  made  in  the 
last  chapter,  was  opened  in  1855  for  the  reception  of  or- 
phans sent  out  from  the  States  as  colored  emigrants,  or 
those  which  should  become  such  after  their  arrival  here. 
They  are  boarded,  clothed  and  educated  at  the  expense  of 
the  church.  They  are  taught  with  reference  to  becoming 
teachers  in  Africa.  It  was  at  this  home  that  the  sainted 
Mrs.  Hoffman  "fell  asleep;"  and  when  standing  in  the 
chamber  where  the  martyr  met  her  fate,  we  felt  that  it  was 
a  place  honored  above  "  the  common  walks  of  vutuous  life, 
quite  on  the  verge  of  heaven." 

Let  us  say  to  our  Episcopahan  friends,  that  this  and  all 
the  other  institutions  of  their  African  Mission  are  worthy 
of  their  sympathies  and  charitable  assistance.  Nothing  that 
they  have  given  to  ^Vfrica  has  been  spent  in  vain ;  nothuig 
th.it  they  may  give  shall  be  lost.  Every  missionary  sent, 
every  dollar  expended,  will  tell  on  the  future  of  Africa  fur 
good.    Missionaries  may  fall,  and  means  seem  to  perish 

graphy  of  this  estimable  lady.  We  commend  it  to  all  interested  in 
African  or  other  missions. — Lindsay  &  Blackiston,  Philadelphia. 


190       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  CBSEEVATIONS. 


with  the  handling,  yet  good  results  will  follow.  The  death 
of  a  missionary  in  Africa  is  known,  in  one  iustaccc  at  least, 
to  have  been  followed  by  the  conversion  of  scores  of  natives, 
who  i^oiuted  to  that  event  as  the  cause  of  their  first  serious 
convictions. 

There  is  a  Methodist  high  school  at  Harper  which  pro- 
mises much  good ;  and  a  church  at  the  same  place  which 
has  many  members.  We  retain  a  very  grateful  recollection 
of  a  basket  of  fresh  beets,  cabbages  and  okra,  sent  off  to 
our  mess  as  a  present  from  the  principal  of  that  school. 
Rev.  Mr.  Paine. 

Among  the  residents  at  Harper,  I  found  several  persons 
from  Augusta  and  Savannah ;  and  deeply,  as  a  Southern 
Methodist,  did  I  feel  the  reproof  contained  in  the  question, 
"  Why  don't  some  of  our  own  Georgia  i:)reachers  come  out 
here  to  preach  to  us  and  help  us  ?"  In  a  temporal  point  of 
view,  our  Georgians  are  doing  well.  They  are  generally 
industrious  and  comfortable. 

Our  first  visit  to  Cape  Palmas  was  in  December,  1855. 
We  brought  with  us  from  Monrovia  three  passengers,  the 
Rev.  J.  Rambo,  of  the  Episcopal  mission,  and  the  Misses 
Staunton  and  Brown,  teachers  in  the  Methodist  mission. 
Our  kind  hearted  commodore  gave  up  his  cabin  to  the 
ladies,  and  I  resigned  my  state-room  to  the  gentleman. 
Miss  Staunton  was  in  the  last  stage  of  consumption ;  and 
Miss  Brown  was  sufiering  from  efiects  of  the  acclimating 
fever,  which  at  length  carried  her  to  the  grave.  Miss  S. 
had  been  tenderly  brought  up,  and  twelve  months  before 
left  a  comfortable  home  for  a  mission  school  in  Africa. 

Never  can  I  forget  the  day  of  our  landing  at  the  Capo. 
Lieut.  Williams  and  myself  walked  with  the  ladies  from  the 


CAPE  PALM^VS. 


191 


landing  to  the  school-house  where  they  were  to  reside,  a 
mile  distant.  As  we  stopped  to  rest  under  the  shade  of  a 
cocoanut-tree  in  the  Grebo  village,  and  the  disgusting 
natives,  men,  women  and  children,  in  a  state  of  almost 
entire  nudity,  gathered  around  us  to  gaze  at  the  white 
women,  one  of  the  ladies  exclaimed — "  I  realize  for  the  first 
time  that  I  am  in  Africa.    Oh,  what  a  work  is  before  us !" 

The  Greboes  are  the  most  degraded  of  the  tribes  that 
we  have  yet  seen.  They  live  in  low,  circular,  bamboo  huts, 
having  long  conical  roofs  of  palm  leaves  and  grass.  They 
are  superstitious,  treacherous  and  unintelligent.  Yet  among 
them  there  are  many  who  have  been  won  by  the  attractions 
of  the  Cross  to  the  faith  and  hopes  of  a  better  life.  Miss 
Staunton  died  on  the  ITth  of  April,  185G,  at  the  setting  of 
the  sun.  She  Avas  one  of  the  purest,  noblest  women  that  I 
have  ever  met.  Young,  cheerful,  child-like,  affectionate, 
yet  devoted  soul  and  body  to  her  Master's  work.  She 
sleeps  among  rustling  palms,  in  the  blessed  hope  of  a  glori- 
ous resurrection,  and  thither  she  went,  cheered  by  the  con- 
scious assurance  that  they  who  sleep  in  Jesus  "  shall  awake 
in  his  likeness." 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


GOLD    COAST  —  EL3IINA. 

Elmina  from  the  Anchorage — Native  Surf-boat — A  Visitor — Landing — 
History  of  Elmina — Settled  by  the  Pbrtuguesc — Dutch  Possession — 
Taken  by  the  English — Sold  to  the  Dutch — Opinion  of  Governor  Dcrx 
— Climate — Dutch  Officers — Mortality — A  Dutch  Philosopher — Native 
Inhabitants — Effects  of  the  Dissolute  Practices  of  White  Kesidcuts — 
Dress — Ideas  of  a  Future  State. 

Our  fii'st  visit  to  Elraina  was  made  in  December,  1855.  We 
came  to  anchor  in  the  open  roadstead,  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  11th.  The  sea  was  rough,  as  it 
generally  is  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  but  the  evening  was 
calm  and  pleasant,  and  the  sun  went  down  in  a  clear  sky. 
The  forts  of  St.  George  and  St.  Jago,  the  houses  of  the 
traders,  and  the  compactly  built  native  town  which  sur- 
rounds them,  Avere  fully  in  view.  I  clhnbed  into  the  mizzen 
top  to  take  an  outline  sketch  of  them,  and  succeeded,  after 
a  sort,  notwithstanding  the  rolling  of  the  ship.  Our  decks 
were  scarcely  cleared  when  the  quarter-master  reported  "  a 
large  boat  coming  off  bearing  Dutch  colors."  Said  boat, 
which  was  a  huge  dug-out  canoe,  Avas  soon  alongside,  and 
being  the  first  of  the  Gold  Coast  boats  that  we  had  seen, 
attracted  no  little  attention.  She  was  twenty-five  or  thirty 
feet  in  length,  four  in  width,  and  two  and  a  half  in  depth. 
A  space  in  her  bows,  eight  feet  long,  was  surrounded  by  a 
l)lank  rail  two  feet  above  the  guuAvale,  inside  of  which  sat  a 
white  officer  in  uniform  and  feathers.    She  was  propelled  by 

132 


GOLD  COAST — ELMIXA. 


193 


twelve  naked  paddlers,  who  kept  a  full  voiced  jabber,  and 
as  they  neared  the  ship  commenced  bowuig  and  gesticulat- 
ing to  the  men  in  the  ports  as  if  they  were,  recognizing 
old  acquaintances.  The  officer  came  on  board  and  presented 
to  the  commodore  the  compliments  of  his  excellency  Gover- 
nor Derx,  of  Elmiua  Castle.  He  "was  quite  an  iutelUgcnt 
yomig  gentleman ;  spoke  French  and  broken  English  quite 
fluently,  and  in  the  course  of  an  hour's  chat  in  the  ward- 
room, gave  us  a  great  deal  of  information  respecting  the 
station  and  the  latest  news  fi-om  Europe.  It  was  quite  dark 
when  he  left  the  shij),  but  his  lusty  crew,  keeping  time  to 
their  paddles  with  a  song,  the  chorus  of  which  was  a  simul- 
taneous grunt,  dashed  the  canoe  over  the  heavy  sea  as  fear- 
lessly as  if  it  had  been  high  noon. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  foUow-mg  morning  we  fired  a  salute 
of  twenty-one  guns  "with  the  Dutch  ensign  at  the  fore ;  and 
soon  after  a  goodly  cotopany  of  us  took  boat  for  the  shore. 
When  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  beach  "we  were 
met  by  a  number  of  native  surf-boats,  such  as  the  one  already 
described,  one  of  which  we  employed  to  take  us  ashore. 
Wc  felt  some  hesitancy  in  committing  ourselves  to  the 
savage  navigation  of  these  unshirted  gentlemen,  but,  believ- 
ing the  nonsense  that  it  is  always  dangerous  to  attempt  a 
landing  in  ship-boats,  wc  trusted ;  and  very  cleverly  did 
they  carry  us  through  the  heavy  rollers  to  the  mouth  of  a 
little  river  which  empties  near  the  larger  fort. 

Such  boats  as  men-of-war  carry  are  certainly  safer  when 
skillfully  managed  tliau  these  shapeless  liulks.  True,  acci- 
dents have  liappened  in  ship-boats,  but  accidents  have  liaj)- 
pened  in  native  canoes  also.  In  all  our  subsequent  landings 
we  staid  in  our  own  boat,  and  went  through  the  surf  com- 

9 


194        PEKSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


fortably.  Skill  and  judgment,  however,  are  quite  necessary 
in  such  Avaters.  Sharks  are  as  numerous  here  as  minnows 
in  Flint  River,  and  a  capsize  would  be  fatal  to  all  hands. 

After  calling  on  the  governor  we  spent  the  forenoon  in 
strolling  through  the  native  town,  and  at  two  o'clock  re- 
paired by  invitation  to  the  castle  to  dine  with  his  excellency 
and  suite.  Elmina,  formerly  written  El  Mina,  derives  its 
name  from  a  mine  in  this  vicinity,,  which  tradition  says  was 
once  fruitful  in  gold.  It  is  the  principal  Dutch  station  on 
the  coast,  and  soon  will  be  the  only  one ;  for  these  stations, 
though  profitable  to  Dutch  merchants,  have  long  since 
ceased  to  yield  any  direct  revenue  to  the  government,  and 
are  kej^t  up  by  heavy  expenditures  and  great  sacrifice  of 
life.  The  larger  and  more  noticeable  of  the  two  forts  hero 
located,  originally  called  St.  Jago,  now  Koenzandsburg,  was 
commenced  by  the  Portuguese  in  1481,  tmder  the  patron- 
age of  King  John  II.  The  object  of  this  establishment  and 
similar  ones  on  the  African  shore,  was  to  afford  protection 
to  the  vessels  and  persons  of  traders  who  visited  the  coast 
for  the  jjurpose  of  trafficking  with  the  natives.  Early  in 
the  year  referred  to,  Don  Diego  d'Azambuja  arrived  on 
the  coast  at  the  head  of  500  soldiers,  200  laborers,  a  jiriest 
or  two,  and  several  artisans.  They  landed  with  pomp  and 
ceremony,  marched  to  the  native  village  Avhich  stood  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  there  hoisted  the  royal  standard  of  Por- 
tugal on  a  high  tree,  built  an  altar  under  it  at  which  they 
celebrated  high  mass  in  gratitude  for  their  safe  voyage,  and 
offered  prayers  for  the  success  of  the  settlement  about  to  be 
established,  and  the  speedy  conversion  of  the  heathen. 

The  native  king,  Camainca,  was  not  pleased  with  the  pro- 
posal to  estabUsh  a  permanent  settlement  in  his  territory. 


GOLD  COAST — ELIHNA. 


195 


but  seeing  that  it  was  about  to  be  clone,  with  or  without 
his  consent,  he  accepted  the  offei-ed  presents,  and  ceded  the 
tract  of  land  on  which  the  to'WTi  and  its  suburbs  now  stand. 
A  few  days  after  he  had  signed  the  deed  of  sale  (?)  and 
while  he  was  still  in  the  deep  blues  of  penitence  for  the  fool's 
bargain  which  he  had  made,  the  workmen  commenced  quar- 
rying stone  for  their  buildings,  and  attacked  a  lai'ge  rock 
which  the  natives  regarded  as  a  fetish  ;  that  is,  something 
sacred.  This  was  too  much  for  the  good  king,  and  he 
showed  his  zeal  for  the  idols  of  his  fathers  by  attacking  in 
person  and  severely  wounding  the  profane  pick-axe  man. 
The  cry  of  war  was  immediately  raised  ;  both  invaders  and 
natives  flew  to  arms ;  but  the  prudent  Azambuja  called  for 
a  council  with  the  king,  and  by  presents,  threats,  and  aguar- 
diente, so  soothed  the  ruffled  feelings  of  his  mud-bedaubed, 
war-painted  highness,  that  he  promised  to  keep  peace  for 
the  future,  and  to  forgive  the  sins  of  the  pick-axe,  on  con- 
dition that  said  fetish  rock  should  be  exempt  from  attacks 
of  profane  })ick-axes  forever.  The  stone  was  pointed  out  to 
me  on  the  bank  of  the  river;  and  an  intelligent  native  who 
accompanied  one  of  the  Dutch  officers  and  myself  in  a  tour 
of  observation,  assured  us  that  it  still  bore  its  sacred  char- 
acter, as  it  had  done  since  its  creation,  and  would,  imtil  the 
end  of  the  world,  unless — and  he  scratched  his  head  as 
he  put  in  the  proviso — "  the  white  man  put  powder  to 
it." 

How  long  the  Portuguese  were  in  building  this  immense 
pile  of  stone  and  mortar,  the  castle,  I  could  not  learn  ;  but 
it  was  certainly  completed  Vjefore  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  It  is  surroimded  })y  a  high  wall,  pierced  by  musket 
ports,  and  to  native  warriors  is  impregnable.  A  deep  trench 


196        TEESONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


tlivides  it  from  the  native  town,  and  it  can  be  entered  on 
that  side  only  by  a  drawbridge. 

We  have  already  referred  to  the  commencement  of  the 
trade  of  the  Dutch  on  the  coast.  Paying  but  little  respect 
to  the  grant  of  the  pope,  which  secured  to  Portugal,  for  her 
enterprise  in  discovery,  the  whole  of  the  Western  Coast, 
they  established  themselves  wherever  they  thought  a  pro- 
fitable trade  could  be  driven  ;  and  in  the  early  part  of  the 
seventeenth  century  drove  the  Portuguese  from  all  their 
establishments  on  the  Gold  Coast.  They  attacked  Elmina 
Castle  in  the  year  1637.  It  fell  into  their  hands  after  a  brief 
siege ;  and  with  it  fell  the  last  vestige  of  Portuguese  power 
on  the  golden  sands. 

N'ot  many  years  after,  the  English  took  possession  of  Elmi- 
na ;  but  finding  it  a  profitless  establishment,  sold  it  back  to  the 
Dutch.  The  expense  in  maintaining  the  force  at  present  ap- 
projn-iatcd  to  this  settlement  is|40,000  annually.  The  receipts 
derived  from  a  tax  levied  on  certain  importations  and  expor- 
tatious  by  Dutch  traders,  are  $20,000.  In  1855,  Govenior 
Derx  was  consulted  by  his  government  on  the  propriety  of 
levying  a  tax  on  the  natives,  and  other  residents  in  the  ter- 
ritory of  Elmina,  sufficient  to  meet  the  remaining  $20,000 
necessary  to  support  the  forts.  He  was  of  the  opinion  that 
such  a  demand  might  be  met ;  but,  in  case  of  a  failure,  he 
thought  that  it  would  be  advisable  to  sell  or  abandon  the 
station.  He  thought  the  natives  Avere  so  awake  to  their 
own  interest  in  carrying  on  peaceable  trade  with  foreigners, 
that  an  establishment  of  this  sort  was  no  longer  necessary ; 
and  that  the  occasional  visit  of  a  vessel  of  war  would  be 
quite  sufficient  to  keep  alive  a  proper  respect  for  the  treaties 
of  trade  and  peace  already  established.    Elmina  was  the 


GOLD  COAST — ELMINA. 


197 


first  settlement  of  white  men  on  tlie  Gold  Coast.  Don  Diego 
d'Azambuja  was  the  first  governor. 

It  is  remarkable  that  African  fever  seldom  makes  its  aj> 
pearance  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  but  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year  a  form  of  dysentery  prevails,  which  is  as  fatal  to 
the  white  man  as  the  fever.  Our  second  visit  to  Elmina 
was  in  December,  1856,  and  of  the  ten  white  officers  whom 
we  met  at  the  dinner-table  in  1855,  seven  had  fallen  victims 
to  this  disease. 

The  pay  of  Dutch  officers  on  this  station  is  very  small, 
that  of  the  governor  being  but  $2,000  ;  but  when  they  have 
served  twelve  years  here,  they  are  privileged  to  retii-e  for 
life  on  a  pension  equal  to  two-thirds  of  the  full  pay.  It  is 
estimated  that  about  one  in  fifteen  of  those  who  come  here 
lives  to  return.  But  hope  springs  eternal  in  the  human 
breast.  Those  that  we  met  in  1855,  notwithstanding  the 
fearful  odds  against  them,  were  sanguine  of  living  through 
their  exile.  Every  man  had  his  ai-gument :  one  rested  his 
hopes  on  his  youth  ;  another  on  the  great  strength  of  his 
constitution ;  another  on  his  temperance ;  another  on  the 
longevity  of  his  progenitors,  and  so  on ;  but  alas !  how 
sadly  wore  these  hopes  disappointed ;  and  that,  too,  when, 
with  many,  the  trying  ordeal  was  almost  past.  Our  hospi- 
table and  worthy  friend.  Governor  Derx,  after  thirteen 
years'  absence  from  his  family  and  his  country,  died  on  the 
homeward  passage.  The  schoolmaster  of  tlie  Castle,  wlio 
was  employed  in  driving  about  fifty  young  Africans  into 
the  mysteries  of  Low  Dutch  and  civilization,  by  means  of  a 
few  spelling-books  and  a  great  many  bamboo  switches, 
spoke  and  acted  very  sensibly  on  this  subject.  In  furnish- 
ing mo  the  figures  on  the  mortality  of  the  fort  given  above, 


198        PERSONAL  ADVENTCTBES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


I  congratulated  him  on  having  lived  so  long,  and  expressed 
the  hope  that  he  might  again  see  his  father  land.  He  re- 
plied— he  was  a  licentiate  in  the  Lutheran  ministry,  and  a 
decided  Calvinist : 

"  Vore  dat,  moine  fren,  I  shall  dye  ven  moino  dime 
komsh." 

"  Then,"  said  I,  "  allow  me  to  hope  that  your  '  dime '  will 
be  a  long  time  in  coming." 

"  Ash  vore  dat,  moine  fren,"  said  he,  "  dish  dime  be 
vixed ;  he  ash  no  kan  kome  more  quvicker  an  "  

Here  his  English  gave  out,  and  he  concluded  the  sen- 
tence— no  doubt  very  philosophically,  for  I  never  saw  a 
Dutchman,  high  or  low,  that  wasn't  a  philosopher  of  some 
sort — in  the  coffee-mill  accents  of  his  mother  tongue. 
"  Dish  dime  ish  vixed ;"  and  so  he  goes  on  drinking  his 
sour  wine,  as  a  substitute  for  lager-bier,  smoking  his  meer- 
schaum, eating  sauer-kraut,  when  he  can  get  it,  reading 
prayers  on  Sundays,  and  taking  things  easy  generally.  He 
was  alive  when  we  last  heard  from  there,  and  no  doubt  will 
be  ten  years  hence. 

Elmina  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  mostly  members  of 
the  Fantee  tribe.  Their  houses  are  larger  than  those  of  the 
tribes  hitherto  described,  and  arc  generally  built  of  mud, 
thatched  with  long  grass,  and  contain  from  two  to  six 
rooms.  Several  of  them  are  buUt  of  stone,  are  two  stoiies 
high,  and  contain,  in  some  instances,  many  good  articles  of 
European  furniture.  They  are  all  badly  ventilated,  how- 
ever, and  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  chimney  is  generally 
but  a  hole  in  the  roof,  arc  black  and  dirty.  Surely  the  style 
and  furniture  of  these  houses  indicate  progress  in  the  peo- 
ple, but  not  a  moral  progress. 


GOLD  COAST — ^ELMIXA. 


199 


The  concubinage,  and  other  vices  indulged  in  by  a  ma- 
jority of  the  white  residents  here,  who,  away  from  home 
and  the  restraints  of  public  opinion,  are  realizing  the  truth 
of  Virgil's  line,  Facilus  decensus  aver)ii,  has  had  a  sad 
effect  in  counteracting  the  missionary  labor  bestowed  on 
the  natives.  Yet,  the  English  Methodist  Mission  established 
on  the  Gold  Coast,  is  not  without  fruit,  even  in  this  ante- 
chamber of  hell.  The  natives  wear  more  clothes  than  some 
others.  The  men  generally  wear  shii-ts,  and  sometimes  a 
long  scarf,  in  the  shape  of  ten  or  fifteen  yards  of  calico, 
thrown  over  the  shoulder  and  wound  several  times  around 
the  waist  and  hips.  Here  we  saw  the  original  of  that  once 
popular  article  of  civilized  woman's  dress,  the  hustle.  Tho 
native  ladies  wear  a  petticoat  extending  from  the  waist  to 
the  knees,  and  under  this,  on  the  small  of  the  back,  a  camel- 
like bump  or  bustle.  (The  surgeon  of  the  fort  assured  me 
that  it  was  not  a  natural  protuberance  !)  This  is  made  to 
answer  a  useful  purpose — as  a  saddle  for  the  younger 
children.  The  style  of  female  head-dress  is  remarkable. 
The  hair,  which,  though  kinky,  is  quite  long,  is  well  greased 
with  pomatum  or  tallow,  and  gathered  on  the  head  in  the 
shape,  and  generally  in  the  dimensions,  of  a  sugar-loaf ;  and 
tliis  is  often  bespangled  with  ornaments  of  gold,  in  the 
making  of  which  the  natives  are  quite  expert.  Beads  on 
the  neck,  and  bracelets  on  the  wrists,  are  indispensable 
articles  of  full  dress.  In  our  walk  through  town,  we  entered 
a  house  in  which  there  was  a  corpse,  a  wife  of  the  tenant. 
The  chief  mourners,  who  were  slaves,  wei'e  painted  all  over 
in  white  mud,  literally  whitewashed,  and  the  remaining 
wives  of  the  landlord  were  seated  on  the  dirt  floor  of  the 
room  entertaining  the  company.    Near  the  deceased,  and 


200        PEESOXAL  ADYENTtTRES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


on  the  mat  on  Avbicli  she  lay,  was  a  plate  of  boiled  rice  and 
fowl,  and  a  bottle  containing  a  little  rnm.  These,  they  said, 
afforded  her  nourishment  on  her  journey,  and  were  very 
acceptable.  Two  old  hags  sat  at  the  feet  of  the  corpse, 
beating  time  on  pieces  of  iron  hoo}),  and  to  this  music  two 
women  were  dancing  in  a  space  near  the  bed.  The  scene 
reminded  me  of  an  Irish  wake  that  I  attended  many  ycai's 
ago,  near  Wexford,  Ireland :  all  hands,  in  both  instances, 
were  making  a  jolly  time  of  it,  and  were  more  or  less  drunk. 

"  Why,"  I  asked,  through  the  interpreter,  "  do  you  dance 
and  laugh  on  such  an  occasion  ?" 

They  replied,  "  Because  she  is  gone  to  a  better  jilace." 

I  felt  very  much  like  acquiescing  in  the  conclusion,  for  a 
worse  place  than  Ehuina  I  can  hardly  imagine.  But  how 
strongly,  deeply  fixed  in  human  nature,  thought  I,  is  the 
conviction  of  another  state  of  existence.  There  are  but 
few  tribes,  if  any,  in  Africa,  and  none  out  of  it,  more  de- 
based and  ignorant  than  this  peoj^le,  yet  here,  though 
vaguely,  and  without  shadow  of  reason,  is  held  and  che- 
rished one  of  the  foundation  truths  of  all  religion. 

The  governor's  secretary  estimated  the  value  of  the  im- 
portations at  twenty  millions  stei'ling,  and  the  exports  at 
twenty-five  millions.  Sixty  jier  cent,  of  the  exports  arc 
gold  dust ;  of  ivory,  twenty  ;  palm  oil,  etc.,  twenty.  On  an 
average,  fifty  American  vessels  visit  Elmina  annually, 
gathering  palm  oil,  ivory,  and  hides ;  and  the  trade  with 
America  is  steadily  increasing. 


I 
I 


CHAPTER  XVni. 


CAPE  COAST. 

Cape  Coast  Castle — The  Memorable  Dead — Dinner  at  the  Mission-house 
— Rev.  Daniel  West — British  Conference — Visit  to  the  School — Effects 
of  such  Visits — Rev.  Thomas  B.  Freeman — Population  of  Cape  Coast 
Town — Fantees — Fantee  Language — Ashantee  and  Ashantees — Houses 
and  Huts — Christians  and  Heathens — Good  Evening. 

Cape  Coast  Castle,  eight  miles  from  Elmina,  is  widely 
known  as  the  headquarters  of  the  English  establishments  on 
the  Gold  Coast.  Here  reside  the  governor  and  other  oiE- 
cers  who  compose  the  coimcil,  or  government,  and  a  large 
military  force  for  the  protection  of  British  subjects  and 
trade.  It  is  also  the  centre  of  the  missionary  operations  in 
Upper  Guinea.  The  name  Cape  Coast  was  long  used  to 
denote  the  large  "  castle,"  or  fort,  which  stands  on  this 
cape ;  but  for  many  years  it  has  been  applied  to  a  small 
territory,  extending  a  few  miles  coastwise  and  inward,  over 
which  the  English  claim  and  exercise  control.  The  Castle, 
which  Avas  built  by  the  Portuguese,  and  taken  by  the 
Dutch,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  British  in  1666,  in  whose  possession  it  is  likely  to  re- 
main while  the  kingdom  of  England  endures.  It  will  one 
day  be  the  headquarters  of  the  British  possession  m  Africa; 
and  that  possession  is  destined  to  embrace  the  whole  of  the 
Gold  Coast  country,  with  its  hundred  tribes.  The  fort — 
commonly  called  "The  Castle/' — which  stands  on  the  solid 
rock,  is  an  imuieubc  and  well-fortified  building  of  stone, 
9*  201 


202       TEKSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AlfD  OBSERVATIONS. 


forming  two  sides  of  a  square,  defended  toward  the  sea  by 
a  high  wall,  which,  connecting  the  outer  ends  of  the  build- 
ing, forms  within  a  large  right-angled  triangular  court.  In 
this  court  repose,  in  their  last  sleep,  the  remains  of  several 
distinguished  personages,  once  connected  with  the  castle, 
among  whom  is  Mrs.  Maclean,  that  gifted  daughter  of 
song,  who  will  live  forever  in  the  poetry  of  the  nine- 
teenth century,  as  "  L.  E.  L."  More  of  these  li^ving  dead 
hereafter. 

We  visited  Cape  Coast  Castle  in  December,  1856,  and 
spent  a  few  days  there  very  pleasantly.  The  English  offi- 
cers of  the  Castle  are  always  glad  of  a  visit  from  civil- 
ized men ;  and,  if  we  allow  them  to  speak  for  themselves, 
which  they  do  in  act  and  word,  "  from  Americans  in 
particular."  Navy  officers  are  always  glad  of  a  run  on 
shore ;  and  to  the  African  cruiser,  the  sight  of  white 
faces,  and  the  accents  of  his  own  tongue,  are  always  re- 
freshing. Such  visits  are  profitable  in  giving  influence  to 
our  flag  abroad,  and  in  furthering  the  objects  of  cruising. 
After  paying  our  respects  to  his  excellency,  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Connor,  a  most  agreeable  and  worthy  gentle- 
man, we  visited  the  officers  of  the  garrison ;  chatted  of 
the  wars  which  accompanied  the  establishment  of  civiliza- 
tion here,  the  distinguished  dead,  and  above  all,  the  tragic 
end  of  Mrs.  Maclean. 

In  the  afternoon.  Dr.  C,  Caj^tain  S.,  and  myself,  dined 
by  invitation  at  the  mission-house,  with  the  Rev.  Mr,  Free- 
man, the  African  missionary,  whose  praise  is  in  all  the 
churches.  There  Ave  met  Rev.  William  West,  who,  with 
his  wife,  was  on  his  way  to  a  mission  station  further  south  ; 
and  the  distinguished,  but  now  lamented,  Daniel  West,  of 


CAPE  COAST. 


203 


the  British  Wesleyan  church,  Avho,  as  commissioner  from 
the  English  Conference,  was  on  a  tour  of  inspection  among 
the  African  mission  stations.  We  sat  down  that  day  to  a 
table  such  as  seldom  greets  the  eye  of  the  African  mis- 
sionary, spread  in  honor  of  the  meeting  of  rej^resentatives 
of  English  and  American  Methodism  on  the  shores  of  Af- 
rica. Potted  mutton  from  "Wales,  beef  from  England,  ale 
from  Scotland,  claret  from  France,  sweetmeats  from  the 
West  Indies,  pastry  made  from  American  flour  (and,  by 
the  way,  flour  of  the  southern  States  brings,  in  tropical  coun- 
tries, two  dollars  a  barrel  more  tlian  any  other,  for  the  rea- 
son that  it  keeps  better),  vegetables  from  Mr.  Freeman's 
model  farm  near  the  cape,  and  last,  though  not  least,  wine 
from  Madeira, 

Ah,  that  was  a  delightful  dinner ! — and  he  that  hath  no 
stomach  for  a  good  dinner  is  fit  for  treason,  stratagems,  etc. 
— and  with  it  we  had  the  feast  of  reason  and  the  flow  of 
soul !  Can  we  ever  forget  the  three  hours  spent  in  the 
society  of  that  great  man,  that  catholic-spirited,  devoted, 
humble  Christian,  Daniel  West  ?  Never!  Never!  May 
the  God  of  truth  and  Methodism  raise  up  to  English  Wes- 
leyanism,  hundreds  like  unto  this  prophet  to  fill  his  place ! 
After  he  had  accomplished  the  objects  of  his  commission,  as 
only  a  Avise,  influential,  and  faithful  man  could  have  accom- 
plished them,  he  closed  his  labors  and  his  life  on  the  passage 
to  England,  and  while  ofi'the  mouth  of  the  Gambia — a  mar- 
tyr to  his  zeal  and  love  for  Methodism  in  Africa.  The  Bri- 
tish Conference  mourned  for  him  as  for  a  father  in  Israel ; 
and  nearer  and  dearer  ones  still  weep  the  absence  of  one 
who  shall  never  return  to  the  home  which  he  loved  ;  but  in 
Africa,  the  death  of  such  martyrs  is  the  life  of  the  Church. 


204:       PEESONAL  ADVENTTjEES  AXD  OBSEKVATIONS. 


In  the  evening,  we  visited  the  school  on  the  mission  pre- 
mises, at  which  over  a  hundred  scholars,  of  both  sexes,  and 
all  ages  between  three  years  and  twenty,  receive  instruc- 
tion in  English,  and  also  in  Fantee,  the  native  tongue. 
After  spending  half  an  hour  in  eonversuig  A\'ith  the  teachers 
and  scholars,  and  making  them  a  brief  address,  which  was 
interpreted  by  a  native  preacher,  for  the  benefit  of  some  na- 
tive visitors  and  scholars  who  did  not  understand  English, 
we  were  treated  to  some  excellent  music.  The  children, 
accompanied  by  a  seraphina,  whicli  was  played  skillfully  by 
a  native  teacher,  sang  the  hymn  beginning — 

"  Jesus,  thy  blood  and  righteousness." 

What  a  scene  was  that  to  be  witnessed  on  the  dark  shores 
of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea.  Oh,  how  sweetly  they  sang!  and 
with  what  spirit  did  they  emphasize  the  verse, 

"  Lord,  I  believe  were  sinners  more 
Than  sands  upon  the  ocean's  shore, 
Thou  hast  for  all  a  ransom  paid, 
Fw  all  a  full  aiononent  made.^^ 

What  Christian,  not  daily  famihar  with  such  exhibitions, 
coidd  have  A\-itnesscd  the  joy  beaming  from  many  of  those 
ui^turned  faces,  and  heard  the  saving  truths  of  our  holy  reli- 
gion undcrstandmgly  and  so  sweetly  uttered  by  these  child- 
ren of  savage  tribes,  without  grateful  emotions?  Tears 
glistened  upon  the  white  faqes  there  that  day,  and  the  lan- 
guage of  one  heart,  at  least,  was — "  Blessed  Lord,  mine 
eyes  liave  seen  thy  salvation  even  in  Africa !" 

It  was  our  intention  to  visit  some  of  the  other  schools  of 
this  denomination  in  the  town,  but  when  we  reached  the 


CAPE  COAST. 


205 


summit  of  a  hill  neai*  the  missiou-house,  wc  saw  the  sunset 
signal  flying  from  our  fore.  The  effect  of  such  visits  upon 
candid  minds  may  be  seen  in  the  following  speech  of  our 
worthy  Saldado  captain,  delivered  at  the  mass-table  a  few 
days  after.  I  hope  that  that  benevolent  gentleman  will 
pai'don  me  for  telling  this  familiarly-expressed  "  tale  out 
of  school,"  but  truth  demands  it.  "  I  tell  you  what  it  is, 
gentlemen;  I  have  often  questioned  the  usefulness  and 
the  good  sense  of  missions  in  Africa ;  but  when  I  heard 
them  little  Guinea  niggers,  at  Cajje  Coast,  singmg  those 
old  Methodist  hynms,  that  I  used  to  hear  on  Long  Island 
when  I  was  a  boy — and  that  wasn't  yesterday — I  thought, 
by  ganny,  '  Well,  the  Chi'istian  religion  is  bound  to  go 
over  the  whole  earth !'  Chaplain,  I  give  in !  I  apologize. 
By  ganny,  there's  no  use^talking  !" 

I  was  a  little  disappointed  in  the  Rev.  Thomas  B.  Free- 
man, supei'intendent  of  the  Wesleyau  Mission  in  Guinea. 
He  has  been  long  and  favorably  known  to  Methodists,  in 
both  England  and  America,  as  a  missionary  pioneer  in  Af- 
rica, and  as  the  author  of  many  able  j^apers,  and  model 
reports  on  the  missionary  work.  I  expected,  therefore,  to 
find  hira  bald,  or  at  least  grey-headed,  a  white  man,  and  all 
the  whiter  for  his  long  African  bleaching ;  but,  behold  ! 
when  I  saw  him,  in  propn4  persond,  he  was  neither  bald, 
grey,  nor  white !  He  has  a  well-proportioned,  well-deve- 
loped, elastic  physique — may  be  about  forty-five  years  of 
.ige ;  his  hair,  which  is  not  hair,  but — well,  never  mind 
what  it  is — was  quite  dark ;  and  as  to  color,  he  is — well, 
never  muid  that,  either — but  he  is  not  white,  nor  yet  is  he 
black !  Wo  have  often  admired  and  praised  his  industry 
and  his  genius.    England  and  America  have  long  ago  voted 


206       PERSONAL  ADVENTtJEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS.  , 


him  a  clever  man,  in  both  senses  of  that  word ;  and  after  a 
few  days'  intimate  acquaintance  with  him,  and  inspection  of 
his  work,  we  are  glad  to  be  able  to  add  that  he  deserves 
all  the  praise  that  he  has  received.  May  he  be  long  S2)ared 
to  the  church  in  Africa ! 

The  population  of  Cape  Town  is  between  six  and  eight 
thousand  natives;  resident  traders,  officers,  and  mission- 
aries, all  English,  about  fifty.  In  the  colony  or  district  of 
Cape  Coast,  and  now  subjects  of  the  British  crown,  there 
are  families  of  many  tribes;  Coramendahs,  Winnebahs, 
Ashantecs,  and  others  ;  but  a  large  majority  of  the  people 
here  and  about  Elmina  are  Fantees.  They  have,  in  a  great 
measure,  neglected  the  peculiar  costumes  of  their  tribes, 
but  a  few  here  dress  (?)  like  the  Elmina  people,  who  retain 
largely  their  distinguishing  customs.  Time  was,  and  that 
within  the  period  of  authentic  African  history,  when  the 
Fantees  were  the  most  powerful  tribe  on  the  Gold  Coast ; 
but  after  repeated  and  bloody  wars,  in  the  course  of  the 
seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  they  were  conquered 
by  the  Ashantecs,  and  lost  their  national  existence.  The 
Fantee  language  is,  however,  the  language  of  the  Gold 
Coast;  for  although  each  tribe  has  its  own  dialect,  or 
patois,  this  seems  to  be  the  root  of  most  of  them,  and  is 
generally  understood.  It  is  the  language  of  trade,  and  mis- 
sionary communications ;  and  though,  from  its  complicate- 
ness,  much  difficulty  has  been  experienced  in  reducing  it  to 
writing,  the  missionaries  have  reduced  it  to  grammatical 
construction,  and  have  printed  in  it  many  useful  books.  Of 
the  languages  of  the  coast,  and  the  obstruction  which  they 
present  to  the  progress  of  truth  and  civilization,  we  shall 
speak  hereafter. 


CAPE  COAST. 


207 


The  kingdom  of  Ashantee,  the  seaward  borders  of  ■which 
are  one  with  the  inland  hne  of  the  territory  over  which  the 
English  exercise  control,  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  king- 
doms in  Africa,  but  little  if  at  all  inferior  to  the  kingdom  of 
Dahomey,  with  which  on  one  side  it  joins.  The  kings  of 
Ashantee  have  regarded  with  jealousy,  fi"om  the  first,  the 
establishment  of  European  forts  on  the  shores  of  the  Gold 
Coast.  This  jealousy  has  been  increased  and  embittei'cd 
by  the  interference  of  the  English  at  Cape  Coast  and  other 
stations,  in  the  wars  which  the  Ashantees  carried  on  with 
other  tribes.  The  frequent  assistance  given  by  the  British 
forts  to  their  sworn  enemies  the  Fantees,  is  still  cherished 
with  bitterness,  and  the  closing  of  the  slave-trade  as  an 
unpardonable  sin.  Deadly  engagements  have  taken  place 
between  the  Ashantees  and  the  forces  at  Cape  Coast  Castle ; 
but  the  fear  of  savage  multitudes  on  one  side,  and  respect 
for  bullets  and  bombshells  on  the  other,  have  led  to  the 
establishment  of  well-defined  treaties  of  permanent  peace. 
The  Ashantees  enjoy  right  of  passage  to  the  sea-shore 
through  English  ten-itory,  and  the  privilege  of  legal  traffic 
there  ;  and  English  merchants,  missionaries,  and  other  sub- 
jects of  the  British  crown,  are  allowed  to  reside,  and  pursue 
their  callings,  anywhere  in  Ashantee.  In  our  walks  through 
Cape  Town,  we  met  many  of  the  Ashantee  peojile,  who  had 
brought  with  them  from  the  interior  palm-oil,  gold-dust, 
gold  rings  of  native  manufacture,  monkey  and  other  skins 
of  considerable  value. 

Those  that  we  have  seen  of  them  are  a  more  proud  and 
intelligent-looking  people  than  the  Fantees,  or  any  other 
that  wo  have  thus  far  described,  except  the  Mandingocs. 
Our  missionaries  represent  them  as  industrious  and  shrewd. 


208        PERSONAL  ADVENTTEES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


Cape  Coast  Town  has  a  fine,  conspicuous  location.  It  is 
built  on  the  sides  and  the  summit  of  a  hill  which  slopes 
gradually  in  every  direction.  The  houses  of  the  foreigners 
are  generally  tasteful  and  large,  and  occupy  the  ■western 
acclivity.  Many  of  the  native  houses  are  two  stories  high, 
built  of  adobes  or  sun-dried  bricks,  and  thatched  with  palm- 
leaves  or  long  grass.  Most  of  the  native  houses,  however, 
are  buUt  without  any  reference  to  light  or  air.  They  are 
huddled  together  on  the  eastei'n  side  of  the  hill  like  so 
many  pigsties,  are  offensively  unclean,  and  the  creatures 
that  mhabit  them  seem  to  be  in  love  with  dirt.  An 
improvement  in  personal  and  domicUiary  cleanliness  marks 
the  progress  of  civilization  among  them.  The  cottages  of 
the  Christians  may  be  distinguished  from  the  Imts  of  the 
heathen  by  the  air  of  comfort  which  they  present,  the  tilled 
garden,  and  other  evidences  of  industry  without,  and  rude 
imitations  of  European  furniture  within:  but  with  both 
Christians  and  heathens,  there  is  room  for  improvement. 

But  the  sunset  cornet  is  waviug  from  the  masthead  ;  Ave 
jump  into  a  native  surf-canoe,  and  dashing  through  the 
rollers  breaking  on  the  beach,  get  wet  jackets,  and  reaching 
our  own  bonny  boat,  glide  over  the  heavy  swell  to  our 
floating-home,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore.  Lights  are 
kindling  along  the  beach.  Africa  is  waking  ixp  from  her 
afternoon's  sleep  to  her  nightly  festivities  of  music  and 
dancing. 

"  But  pale  concluding  evening  comes  at  last 
And  shuts  the  scene." 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE — CONCLUDED. 

Bishop  Heber's  Hymn — Fancies  and  Realities — The  Gold  and  its  getters 
— Gold  Dust  Currency — Two  Centuries  ago — Cape  Coast  Town — The 
Civilization  of  Couimerce — A  Representative  Man — Examples  of  the 
Rule  for  determining  the  Degree  of  Civilization  among  Africans — The 
Gamboge  Tree — Forts  AVilliam  and  Victoria — The  Cliapcl — Wcsleyau 
Mission — The  Lake — L.  E.  L. — The  Guinea  Worm. 

"Wno  has  not  sung,  or  read,  or  heard  of  "  Afric's  golden 
sands  ?"  The  lovely  Hebcr  has  celebrated  them  in  that  in- 
comparable hjmn  to  the  strains  of  which  the  missionary 
host  has  been  marshalled  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury, and  which  has  done  more  in  infusing  inissionaiy  ze.al 
in  the  Protestant  church  than  any  other  uninspired  com- 
position. In  tlie  imaginings  of  our  boyhood,  we  often  pic- 
tured to  ourselves  the  golden  sands  of  Guinea,  glittering 
with  particles  of  the  precious  ore,  and  longed  "  to  bo  a  man," 
tliat  we  might  go  there  and  pick  up  "  millions ;"  but  we 
have  not  found  the  reality  to  correspond  with  the  brightly 
colored  pictures  of  youthful  fancy. 

There  is  gold  in  Africa — enough  to  build  palaces,  no 
doubt — but  it  is  not  to  be  found  on  the  surf-washed  beach. 
The  i)uro  silex  which  there  glistens  Avith  the  salt  spray  of 
Old  Ocean,  crystallized  by  burning  suns,  is  guiltless  of  i^os- 
sessing  sordid  dust — at  least,  we  never  could  find  any  of  it, 
though  wc prospected  in  several  places.  Nor,  as  sonic  Euro- 
pean adventurers  have  leanicd  to  their  sorrow  and  at  the 

200 


210        PERSONAL  ADVENTTEES  A^T)  OBSERVATIONS. 


cost  of  life,  is  it  to  be  picked  up  in  "nuggets"  among  the 
gravel  of  the  hillsides  of  the  interior ;  but  where  the  "  sunny- 
fountains  "  roll  down  the  hills  and  vales,  it  is  to  be  found, 
scattered  in  particles  like  hoar-frost,  but  not  by  any  means 
so  easily  gathered. 

Practical  and  experienced  miners,  from  England,  France 
and  Germany,  have  visited  the  Gold  Coast,  furnished  with 
picks,  pans,  pounding  machines,  crucibles,  mercuiy,  and 
other  implements  of  gold-getting;  but  in  all  their  "pro- 
spectings  "  no  "  placers  "  or  "  streaks  "  have  as  yet  been 
found  sufficiently  rich  to  repay  the  labors  of  Europeans. 
The  natives,  with  whom  time  is  of  but  little  value,  can  af- 
ford to  "  wash  out "  at  the  rate  of  a  few  cents  a  day,  but 
civilized  men  require  dollars  where  savages  requii-e  but 
mills.  The  system  of  gold-getting  among  the  tribes  who 
inhabit  the  gold  country,  as  described  to  us  by  an  officer  at 
Elmina,  is  by  washing  the  earth  which  contains  it  in  wooden 
or  other  bowls.  The  particles  of  gold  by'  their  weight  sink 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  when  the  contents  are  agitated, 
and  are  picked  out,  morsel  by  morsel,  from  the  grains  of 
sand  or  other  heavy  matter  which  accompanies  them.  The 
labor  is  ^^erformed  chiefly  by  women,  most  of  whom  are 
slaves  ;  a  heavy  percentage  is  paid  to  the  king  who  claims 
the  territory,  and  the  remainder  is  bought  up  by  petty  mer- 
chants, who  give  cotton  goods  and  trinkets  in  exchange ; 
and  by  them  is  carried  to  tlie  coast,  where  it  is  bought  by 
Europeans  for  like  commodities. 

Our  informant  told  us  that,  in  tlie  riclier  valleys  of  the 
interior,  thousands  of  these  women  may  be  seen  in  company, 
each  furnished  with  a  bowl  and  a  bunch  of  switches,  with 
which  to  stir  up  the  earth  in  the  vessels,  and  a  small  spade 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE. 


211 


for  digging.  He  described  as  "very  interesting"  the  scuf- 
fles and  woolings  which  daily  take  jslace  at  the  washings 
between  the  dusky  competitors  for  fortune.  Laying  aside 
all  im2>lements,  they  go  through  the  operations  in  the  style 
of  the  encounters  at  Irish  weddings,  with  claws  and  teeth. 

Gold  dust  is  used  in  Elmina  and  at  Cape  Coast  Town  as 
a  circulating  medium.  The  venders  in  the  native  markets 
are  furnished  with  small  scales,  and  so  skilled  are  they  in 
the  use  of  them  and  the  value  of  the  metal,  that  gold  is 
given  and  received  in  exchange  for  a  few  cents'  worth  of 
fish,  eggs,  or  roasted  lizards.  Two  centuries  ago,  large 
fortunes  were  frequently  made  by  Portuguese  and  other 
traders  in  a  single  voyage  to  this  coast,  in  pux'chasing  gold. 
Then  a  jack-knife,  a  piece  of  brightly  colored  silk,  or  a  brass 
or  tin  ornament  for  the  person,  would  bring  half  its  weight 
in  gold.  In  later  days,  Manchester  goods  have  brought 
fifty  times  their  cost ;  New  England  rum  has  been  sold  at 
the  rate  of  twenty  dollars  a  gallon,  and  Virginia  tobacco  at 
the  rate  of  five  dollars  a  pound.  Those  celebrated  Yankee 
muskets  that  can  shoot  round  a  corner,  and  do  as  much 
damage  at  the  breech  as  at  the  muzzle,  once  brought  fifty 
dollars  a  \)\ocg  •  but  the  palmy  days  of  such  trade  have 
gone  by  forever.  The  civilizing  influence  of  commerce  has 
dissipated  that  ignorance  of  the  value  of  notions ;  and  the 
trader  of  this  age  has  to  deal  with  men  who  estimate  their 
gold  at  the  rate  of  sixteen  dollars  an  ounce,  and  who  are  as 
good  judges  of  cottons  and  silks  as  most  ladies  in  America. 
We  do  not  mean  to  say  that  they  are  not  cheated  now  ;  by 
no  moans !  When  they  get  too  keen  for  Yankee  ingenuity 
the  millenium  will  be  close  at  hand,  and  Sambo  will  have 
changed  his  complexion. 


212        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


But  Cape  Coast  Town,  with  its  background  of  green 
crested  bills,  is  before  us;  the  morning  sun  shines  softly 
over  ship  and  shore,  and  while  the  harmattan  dust-fog 
shades  us  from  the  equatorial  brightness  of  his  rays,  we'll 
hasten  to  the  landing  for  another  stroll.  There  is  no  creek 
or  river  for  us  to  nm  into,  as  there  is  at  Elmina,  and  as 
Uncle  Sam's  boats  are  not  built  for  beaching,  we  have  to 
trust  ourselves  again  to  a  big  dvig-out  and  a  dozen  noisy 
paddlers  to  bear  us  through  the  surf:  for  which  we  pay  an 
English  shilling,  or  an  American  quartci",  each.  To  make 
exorbitant  charges  and  to  take  advantage  of  the  necessities 
of  others,  these  rascals  think  evidence  of  intelligence,  and 
to  do  this  successfully  is  the  summum  honum^  in  their  idea 
of  civilization. 

"I  want  for  learn  read  and  make  book"  (write),  said  an 
intelligent  Krooman  to  me. 
"  What  for  ?"  said  I. 

"  So  I  can  know  how  for  cheat  dis  yeah  foolish  nigger." 

Whilst  we  were  on  the  coast,  an  instance  came  under  our 
observation  of  a  head-man  or  jM'ince  going  a  himdred  miles 
to  a  mission-station  to  ask  for  a  teacher  for  his  village. 
When  questioned  as  to  the  reason  for  such  a  request,  lie 
said  that  he  and  several  of  liis  jjeople  wanted  to  learn  how 
to  trade  with  white  men  so  tliat  the  cheating  might  not  be 
all  on  one  side.  On  the  coast,  cheating  and  trade  are  in 
fact  and  name  synonymous.  Such  are  the  ideas  gathered 
from  centuries  of  intercourse  with  commercial  men.  Yet 
commerce  is  called  the  "great  civilizer."  What  a  humbug! 

"The  apparel  oft  bespeaks  the  man,"  quoth  Pollonius. 
What  then  is  to  be  our  estimate  of  Mr.  John  Paxton  Wil- 
berforccy  a  dark  gentleman  in  rags  and  tags,  who  proposes 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE. 


213 


to  become  our  cicerone  this  morning  ?  John  has  a  pleasant 
face,  lie  sjieaks  very  good  English,  his  wool  is  done  up  m 
very  tight  corkscre^vs,  he  sports  a  massive  seal  ring,  and 
there  floats  in  his  rear  a  dusky  white  flag  as  evidence  of 
his  peaceful  intentions.  John  claims  to  be  a  Christian, 
although  "  not  a  member,  and  not  'ligious ;"  says  he  is  a 
Queen's  man,  and  at  the  same  time  a  Fantee, 
"  Have  you  been  to  school,  John  ?" 

"  Oh  yes,  sir,  been  to  Mr.  Freeman's  school  mose  two 
year." 

"  Why  did  you  not  remain  longer  ?" 
•'  I  get  tire." 

"What  do  you  think  of  the  missionaries,  John  ?" 

"Be  very  fine  i)eople,  sir;  but  I  don't  like  white  people 
fash  (manners) ;  he  want  work  and  learn  too  much.  I  like 
dis  country  people  fash  better." 

According  to  his  own  showing,  John  is  in  the  transition, 
or  half-civilized  state,  and  is  the  type  of  a  large  class  in  this 
the  territory  of  Cape  Coast.  This  is  the  conclusion  that  we 
should  have  arrived  at,  judging  from  the  "  apparel."  The 
rule  for  determining  the  degree  of  civilization  among  Afri- 
cans, "we  have  given  in  the  chapter  on  the  Gambia,  With 
John  Paxton  Wilberforce  before  our  eyes,  Ave  give  the  fol- 
lowing as  an  example  :  straw  hat,  minus  crown  and  half  the 
brim  ;  plus  an  old  uniform  coat,  minus  sleeves ;  plus  white 
Khirt,  white  worn  off";  plus  pantaloons  minus  dorsum  and 
one  leg;  equal  half  a  suit  of  clothes,  ofjual  half  civilized 
condition. 

Tlie  broad  and  macadamized  road  which  runs  through 
the  centre  of  the  town,  and  which  is  used  as  a  parade  ground 
by  the  soldiers  of  the  fort,  affords  a  pleasant  Avalk  in  the 


214       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


forenoou  or  evening.  It  is  lined  by  good-sized  houses, 
many  of  which  are  built  of  stone  and  nsed  as  stores.  It  is 
shaded  by  handsome  trees,  here  called  nmbrella  trees,  but 
which,  Mr.  Freeman  assures  us,  are  those  which  produce 
gamboge.  In  size  and  shape  they  resemble  the  morus  mvl- 
ticaulis,  or  silk-worm  mulberry  ;  the  leaves  are  heart-shaped, 
smooth,  glossy,  and  of  a  dark  green  color  on  the  superior 
surface,  rough  and  whitish  on  the  inferior.  The  seed  cajj- 
sules  are  short  six-sided  j^ods,  containing  six  cells.  It  is 
from  these  pods,  and  the  seeds  which  they  contain,  while  in 
a  green  state,  that  the  resinous  matter  is  obtained.  Those 
that  we  gathered  and  cut  open  contained  a  large  quantity 
of  a  bright  yellow  matter,  of  the  consistency  of  cream.  It 
dried  rajjidly  when  exposed  to  the  sun,  forming  a  tenacious, 
bright  yellow  gum.  The  flowers  resemble  those  of  the 
cotton-plant,  and  like  them  are  white  on  opening,  but  soon 
turn  red.  So  little  is  known  of  this  tree,  that  I  regret  the 
loss  of  the  leaves,  blooms  and  seed-vessels,  whicli  I  carefully 
gathered  and  preserved,  and  from  which  I  hoped  to  give  a 
more  minute  description. 

Women,  half  civilized  and  barbarous,  sat  in  the  shade  of 
these  trees,  offering  for  sale  the  usual  commodities  of  Afri- 
can markets :  dried  fish,  eggs,  fowls,  glass  beads ;  bananas 
and  other  fruits,  ground  peas,  corn,  rice,  and  cotton  hand- 
kerchiefs. 

The  road  to  Fort  William,  a  mile  from  the  landing,  aflbrds 
a  pleasant  walk  to  those  who  are  fond  of  walking  when  the 
mercury  is  at  eighty-five  in  the  shade.  Comfortable-looking 
cottages,  handsome  shade-trees,  and  limpid  streams  vary 
the  scenery  ;  and  early  in  the  morning  the  cliattering  of  the 
market-women  makes  music  for  you  by  the  way.    I  say  not 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE. 


215 


how  pleasant  such  music  may  be,  but  to  gentlemen  who 
have  been  cooped  up  on  board  a  man-of-war  for  months  to- 
gether, the  screamings  of  the  most  untamable  shrew,  or  the 
cry  of  the  most  sqitally  brat,  is  a  pleasant  variation  to  the 
rough  monotone  of  masculine  voices  heard  on  board  ship. 

Fort  Wyiiam  occupies  one  of  the  two  high  conical  hills 
that  stand  in  the  rear  of  Cape  Town,  and  Fort  Victoria  the 
other.  These  we  found  carefully  guarded  by  gentlemen 
who  wore  "the  shadowed  livery  of  the  burnished  sun,"  and 
the  red  coats  of  her  majesty  Victoria.  Meridian  observa- 
tion.s  were  formerly  taken  daily  at  one  of  these  forts,  and  at 
the  second  of  zenith  a  gilt  ball  was  dropped  from  the  top  of 
the  flag-staff.  This  signal  was  of  value  to  navigators  m  en- 
abling them  to  correct  their  chronometers,  but  for  some 
reason  or  other  it  has  been  abandoned. 

In  returning  from  the  forts,  we  passed  the  principal  Me- 
thodist church  of  the  place,  or,  as  it  is  termed  here,  "  the 
Chapel."  It  is  an  ungainly,  but  large  and  substantial  struc- 
ture, capable  of  seating  seven  hundred  persons.  Crinolines 
have  not  yet  been  introduced  at  Cape  Coast.  Here  services 
are  performed  in  English  twice  on  the  Sabbath,  and  many 
of  the  soldiers  and  officers  of  the  garrison  and  resident  mer- 
chants attend.  The  following  figures  Avill  show  the  Wesleyan 
force  in  this  place,  besides  which  there  is  a  chaplain  of  the 
Church  of  England,  a  chapel,  and  a  school  at  the  garrison  ; 
a  superintendent,  3  missionaries,  5  local  preachers  (natives). 
8  churches,  1,000  communicants ;  1 1  day-schools,  30  teachers, 
500  scholars.  The  average  number  of  attendants  on  public 
worsliip  is  2,500,  or  one-third  of  the  entire  poplation. 

We  continued  our  walk  to  the  shores  of  the  lagoon,  half 
a  mile  from  the  town.    The  English  residents  call  it  a  lake, 


216        PEESOXAL  ADVEJaTKES  AIsD  OBSERVATIONS. 


and  here  often  amuse  themselves  iu  boat-raciug  aud  other 
aquatic  sports.  It  is  a  pretty  sheet  of  vrater,  sui-rounded  by 
grassy  banks  and  overhanging  evergreens,  and  enlivened  by 
the  wild  notes  of  the  sea-birds  that  sport  above  its  mirrored 
face.  Along  its  shores  vras  the  favorite  evening  walk  of  3Irs. 
Maclean  (L.  E.  L.),  and  from  its  cool  breezes  and  sunset 
glories  she  gathered  insjiiration  for  the  sweet  productions 
of  her  later  life.  The  want  of  space  prevents  the  introduc- 
tion hei'e  of  our  note  on  the  African  life  and  the  death  of 
this  gifted  but  imhappy  woman. 

In  passing  through  the  native  portion  of  the  town  late  m 
the  evening,  we  were  attracted  to  a  low  and  very  du'tymud 
hut  by  groans  of  suffering,  aud  the  laughter  of  a  crowd  that 
stood  about  the  door.  Expecting  to  see  something  worth 
putting  into  a  book  describing  life  in  Africa,  we  forced  our 
way  into  the  hut ;  where,  stretched  on  a  bamboo  mat  on  the 
floor,  lay  a  very  hearty-looking  negro,  who  was  undergoing, 
by  the  hands  of  a  native  doctor,  an  operation  for  Guinea- 
worm.  If  the  noise  he  made  and  the  large  drops  of  jjerspi- 
ration  that  stood  on  his  body  may  be  taken  as  evidence  of 
jjain,  the  subject  suffered  a  great  deal;  and  no  wonder,  for 
the  operator  was  cutting  into  his  legs  at  an  immcrcifiil  rate, 
and  Avith  a  vciy  unjirofessional  scalpel — an  old  razor  with  a 
very  rough  edge.  We  were  cpiite  anxious  to  witness  the 
operation,  but  the  atmosijhere  was  too  fragrant,  and  having 
neither  cologne  nor  assafcetida  to  better  it,  we  found  out^ 
door  air  indispensable  after  ten  seconds  absence  from  it. 

The  Guinea-worm— ^ferfa  mediensis — wliich  abounds  in 
the  East  and  AV'est  Indies,  Egypt,  Arabia,  and  Africa,  is  a 
whitish,  scmitransparent,  elastic,  cylindrical  wonn ;  varying 
from  twelve  inches  to  several  feet  in  length.    It  develops  in 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE. 


217 


the  legs,  and  neck,  sometimes  in  other  parts  of  the  body, 
immediately  under  the  skin,  and  is  seldom  discovered  until 
it  is  several  inches  in  length,  and  by  its  motion  produces 
irritation  in  the  walls  of  its  abode.  White  persons  of  cleanly 
habits  are  rarely  troubled  with  it,  and  though  it  for  a  time 
disables  the  limb  which  harbors  it,  it  is  rarely  attended  with 
serious  consequences.  We  give  place  to  a  valuable  and 
scientific  description  of  this  worm,  prepared  for  us  by  Fleet 
Surgeon  Clymer  of  the  U.  S.  Navy.  Next  morning  our  en- 
sign waved  its  adieu  to  the  British  flag,  which  floated  above 
the  sunlit  walls  of  Cape  Coast  Castle.  Two  of  the  noble 
spirits  th;it  we  left  there  have  since  jjassed  to  brighter  and 
more  salubrious  skies.  There  may  wc  meet  them ;  beyond 
the  reach  of  disease  and  death ! 


"  THE  GUIXEA-WORM. 

"I  was  especially  interested  while  at  Elmina,  by  tlie  opportunity  tliere 
presented  of  sceinf;  specimens  of  those  fortuitous  and  temporary  inmates 
of  the  human  body,  peculiar  to  Fonie  warm  climates,  and  which,  popu- 
larly known  by  the  name  of  Guinea-worms,  have  been  fully  described  by 
writers  on  disease,  under  a  great  diversity  of  learned  designations.  They 
arc  represented,  in  medical  booiis,  as  abounding  in  some  localities  in  the 
East  Indies  among  the  natives,  and  even,  to  Some  extent,  among  the 
British  troops  at  Madras,  Ceylon,  and  Bombay,  in  Arabia,  Egypt,  and 
Abyssinia,  along  the  coast  of  Guinea,  among  the  negnoes  brought  from 
Africa  to  the  West  Indies,  and  among  sailors  and  others  lately  returned 
from  that  country.  They  are  described  as  small ,  cylindrical,  hollow 
worms,  white,  transparent,  and  elastic,  developed  in  the  cellular  tissue 
beneath  the  skin,  where  they  may  bo  traced  by  the  fingers,  and  some- 
times seen  like  a  whip-cord  or  violin-string,  stretched  out  or  serpcntino 
in  direction,  and  of  various  lengths,  from  twelve  inches  to  as  many  feet. 
They  infest  various  parts  of  the  body,  particularly  the  lower  extremities, 

10 


218       PERSON AI,  ADVin^TUEES  Am)  OBSERVATIONS, 


and,  occasionally  the  upper  extremities  and  neck,  and  the  walls  of  tho 
chest  and  abdomen. 

"  The  Guinea-worm  is  usually  harmless,  and  for  a  time  unnoticed,  caus- 
ing neither  local  nor  constitutional  symptoms,  till,  in  its  development,  its 
presence  is  revealed  by  an  itching  at  a  single  point.  This  leads  to  an 
inspection,  and  the  discovery  of  a  small  vesicle  over  the  head  of  the 
worm.  In  its  progress  to  maturity,  the  irritated  point  swells,  inflames, 
and  at  length  suppurates,  and  forms  an  ulcer,  through  which  the  head  of 
the  worm  protrudes.  Though  the  worm  thus  appears  to  advance  slowly 
and  spontaneously,  by  the  suppurative  process,  to  extrusion  from  it."? 
lodging-place,  its  expulsion  is  usually  assisted,  after  the  head  can  be  laid 
hold  of,  by  daily  gentle  traction,  carefully  exercised  for  several  weeks  so 
as  to  avoid  a  rupture,  and  a  consequent  cfifasion  into  the  wound  of  multi- 
tudes of  the  young  progeny  of  this  viviparous,  cavitary,  tubular  animal, 
whose  presence,  when  thus  effused,  is  apt  to  create  inflammation  and  ab- 
scesses in  its  course,  with  much  constitutional  disturbance.  The  native 
manipulators,  however,  more  expert  than  Europeans,  take  the  process 
out  of  nature's  hands,  and,  making  an  incision  through  the  skin  over  tho 
middle  of  the  worm,  seize  it  by  a  duplicature,  and  extract  it  by  a  single 
traction. 

"  The  surgeon  of  the  castle,  who  had  always  many  cases  of  it  on  hand, 
showed  me  samples  of  this  filiform  parasite  (the  filaria  medieiisis  of 
nosologists^,  in  various  stages  of  its  progress,  from  the  earliest  percepti- 
ble irritation  beneath  the  skin  in  a  single  point,  to  fluctuation  and  ap- 
proaching ulceration  at  that  point,  with  a  distinctly  felt  development  of 
the  worm  in  its  waving  or  serpentine  direction  in  the  subcutaneous  cel- 
lular tissue  ;  and,  finally,  to  its  semi-extraction  at  the  ulcerated  point. 
Its  length  he  stated  to  average  eighteen  inches,  but  to  range  from  one 
foot  to  three.  These  worms  he  represented  to  exist,  sometimes  singly, 
sometimes  in  succession,  and  sometimes  in  numbers  at  a  time  in  different 
stages  of  development  in  the  same  individual,  and  sometimes  to  appear  a 
long  time  after  leaving  the  coast  of  Guinea.  Though  they  usually  infest 
the  lower  extremities,  I  saw  one,  of  eighteen  inches,  half  extracted  from 
the  side  of  an  individual,  who  had  two  besides  in  the  lower  limbs.  The 
extracted  part  looked  and  felt  like  a  string  of  catgut,  whilst  the  other 
could  bo  distinctly  traced  by  the  fingers,  like  a  whipcord  beneath  the 


CAPE  COAST  CASTLE. 


219 


skin.  The  sinuous  track  in  which  the  worm  was  lodged  was  sensitive  on 
pressure,  particularly  at  its  orifice  ;  and  traction  caused  some  degree  of 
pain.  On  this  account,  as  well  .is  to  avoid  the  risks  of  a  rupture  of  the 
worm,  the  traction  is  not  carried  beyond  a  quarter,  or,  at  most,  a  half  of 
an  inch  at  a  time,  and  is  renewed  daily,  or  twice  a  day,  until  its  complete 
extraction.  The  protruded  portion  dangled  at  the  side ;  though  it  is 
usually  recommended,  as  well  to  protect  it  from  injury  .is  to  prevent  re- 
traction, to  coil  it  around  a  quill  of  cotton  or  other  cylindrical  substance, 
and  to  secure  it  near  the  aperture  by  adhesive  plaster,  or  other  retentive 
means. 

"  The  Guinea-worm,  as  I  was  assured,  requires  two  or  throe  months  to 
run  its  course,  during  which  time  the  patient,  though  partially  disabled, 
may  walk  freely  about.  "Whilst  it  lasts,  the  soldier  at  the  castle  is  re- 
lieved from  duty.  An  attack  secures  no  exemption  for  the  future,  but 
may  be  followed  by  a  scries  of  invasions. 

"It  has  been  observed  that  the  ofliccrs,  and  others  who  are  properly 
clad,  are  nearly,  if  not  entirely,  exempt  from  Guinea-worm,  which  attacks 
in  great  numbers  the  natives,  whose  limbs  are  exposed,  with  little  or  no 
clothing,  and  who  bathe  in  the  stagnant  waters  near  the  town.  JI.iy  we 
not,  then,  refer  the  origin  of  these  subcutaneous,  superficial  worms  to 
their  penetration  (after  the  reputed  manner  of  the  Pules  Penetrans,  or 
chigoe),  of  the  animalcules  from  the  water.",  in  which  they  may  be  sup- 
posed to  abound,  through  the  skin  into  the  ce'.lular  tissue,  where,  finding 
a  nidus  adapted  to  their  nourishment  and  growth,  they  attain,  at  length, 
a  development  and  activity  which  lead,  through  the  irritation  and  inflam- 
mation which  they  create,  to  their  expulsion  from  their  human  habita- 
tion as  no  longer  to  be  tolerated  inmates. 

"  The  opinion  that  they  arc  due  to  the  drinking  of  water  charged  with 
the  cntozoal  germs,  which,  traversing  the  absorbents  and  the  route  of 
the  circulation,  conic  to  be  deposited  beneath  the  skin,  there  to  find  a 
home  and  to  receive  their  development,  is  destitute  of  the  siipport  of 
physiology  and  analogy ;  though  it  docs  not  want  advocates,  among 
whom  is  the  surgeon  of  the  castle  at  Elmina. 

"  The  idea  of  their  spontaneous  generation  will  hardly  be  maintained 
in  these  latter  days,  which  require  a  reason  for  our  faith." 


CHAPTER  XX. 


GULF    OF  GUINEA. 

L.  E.  L.  and  Cape  Coast  Castle — Her  Marriage — Arrival  on  the  Coast — 
Reception — Employment — Her  Death — Inquest — Verdict — Impressions 
in  England  regarding  her  Death — Death  of  Governor  Maclean — Epitaph 
of  Mrs.  Maclean — Miss  Staunton  and  L.  E.  L. — Points  of  Comparison 
and  Contrast,  etc. 

Dear  Reader  :  While  the  winds  and  waves  are  wafting  us 
on  to  Accra,  descend  with  me  to  my  little  room,  and,  if  not 
already  tired  of  my  talk,  hear  my  notes  and  memories  of 
Cape  Coast  Castle  relating  to  the  life  and  death  of  that 
gifted  daughter  of  song,  L.  E,  L. 

Governor  Maclean,  of  Cape  Coast  Castle,  while  on  a  visit 
to  England,  in  the  winter  of  1837-38,  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  Miss  Landon  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Foster,  the 
member  of  parliament  for  Berwick.  He  addressed  her — 
after  a  short  acquaintance,  they  were  married ;  they  sailed 
for  Africa,  and  arrived  at  Cape  Coast  on  the  15th  of  August, 
1838.  She  met  with  a  hearty  welcome  from  the  officers  and 
merchants  of  the  place,  and  while  she  lived,  by  the  bril- 
liancy of  lier  wit  and  the  amiability  and  benevolence  of  her 
character,  she  continued  to  be  the  great  attraction  of  the 
castle  to  residents  and  visitors.  The  report  of  her  commg 
was  received  with  incredulity,  but  her  works  were  imme- 
diately and  eagerly  sought  for  and  read,  and  that,  too,  by 
persons  who,  till  then,  liad  never  read  a  volume  of  poetry 
in  then-  lives.  The  people  of  the  town  could  scarcely  realize 

220 


GULF  OF  GUINEA. 


221 


that  one  so  distinguished  was  to  become  a  resident  in  a  place 
so  obscure  ;  they  felt  honored  by  the  event  when  she  came, 
and  when  the  pale  naessenger  carried  her  away,  after  a  resi- 
dence of  two  months,  her  new,  but  warmly  attached  fi-iends 
felt  that  her  visit  had  been  like  the  visit  of  an  angel  sent 
fi-om  heaven  to  cheer  and  chami  them  for  a  while ;  and  they 
mourned  for  her  as  for  the  purest,  the  tenderest,  the  love- 
liest of  their  little  circle. 

She  entered  upon  her  domestic  duties  with  cheerfulness ; 
the  novelties  and  inconvenience  of  garrison  life  in  Africa 
amused  rather  than  annoyed  her.  She  was  surprised  to 
find  "in  such  an  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  world,  so 
many  agreeable  and  well-educated  men in  the  new  aspects 
which  nature  presented  on  every  side,  she  found  matter  of 
constant  interest ;  and  though  she  often  spoke  of  her  homo 
and  friends  in  England,  with  a  tone  of  sadness,  she  seemed 
generally  cheerful,  and  sometimes  even  gay,  to  the  last 
evening  of  her  life. 

She  was  found  dead  in  her  room,  on  the  moniiiig  of  the 
IGth  of  October.  A  pall  of  mystery  enshrouds  that  event 
which  may  never  be  raised.  She  left  Mr.  Maclean's  room 
for  her  own,  which  was  separated  from  his  by  a  landing 
three  feet  wide,  at  1  o'clock ;  a  few  minutes  after,  she  sent 
her  nurse,  Mrs.  Bailey,  to  her  store-room  for  a  pot  of  poma- 
tum. When  the  nurse  returned,  she  found,  on  attempting 
to  reiinter  the  room,  sometliing  against  the  door ;  she  forced 
it  open,  and  found  Mrs.  Maclean  on  the  floor,  in  the  agonies 
of  deatli.  Dr.  Cobbold  was  immediately  called,  and  Avas 
800U  on  the  spot ;  but  before  he  arrived,  every  symptom  of 
lil'e  had  disappeared.  A  post  mortem  inquest  Avas  held,  but 
nothing  M-as  elicited,  except  that,  on  testimony  of  Mrs. 


222        PEESONAI,  ADVENTUHES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 

Bailey,  a  vial  which  had  contained  Scheele's  preparation  of 
prussic  acid  was  found  in  her  hand. 

The  verdict  of  the  coroner's  inquest  was  "  death  by  an 
over- dose  of  Scheele's  preparation  of  prussic  acid,  taken 
inadvertently."  She  had  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  this 
medicine  as  a  preventive  of  spasms,  to  which  she  was 
subject. 

It  was  currently  reported,  and  believed,  in  England,  at 
the  time  of  her  death,  that  her  later  lettei-s  to  intimate 
friends  contained  intimations  of  imkindness  toward  her  on 
the  part  of  Mr.  Maclean ;  and  this  gave  rise  to  the  suppo- 
sition that  she  had  jiut  an  end  to  her  life  by  her  own 
hands. 

We  can  scarcely  imagine  that  a  man  who  had  resided 
many  years  in  Africa,  and  who  had  degraded  liimself  by 
living  in  concubinage  with  a  native  woman,  Avould  make  a 
congenial  partner  for  so  sensitive  and  refined  a  spirit  as  was 
L.  E.  L.  True,  he  explained  before  their  marriage  the  state 
of  his  jjrevious  Hfe,  but  not  until  she  came  to  Africa,  and 
beheld  the  creatures  of  such  attachments,  and  Avitnessed  in 
others  the  debasing  effects  of  such  alliances,  could  she 
realize  the  degradation  of  such  a  life.  Who  knows,  but 
that  in  the  object  of  her  tender  affections  she  may  have  dis- 
covered a  divided  heart ;  or,  at  least,  that  as  the  effects  of 
his  previous  habits,  she  found  not  in  him  that  pure  and  deli- 
cate affection  for  which  her  nature  pined  ?  Under  sucli 
circumstances,  the  prospects  of  a  life  in  Africa,  to  one  who 
had  received  praise  and  admiration  in  the  most  brilliant 
and  gifted  circles  of  England,  must  have  been  gloomy 
indeed. 

On  tlic  other  hand,  the  testimony  of  many  letters  to 


GULF  OF  GUINEA. 


223 


friends  at  home,  in  TvLich  she  speaks  pleasantly  of  her  sur- 
roundings in  Africa,  and  that  of  Mr.  Cruikshank  and  others 
■vvho  knew  her  at  the  Castle,  that  she  was  generally  cheerful 
and  seemed  happy  in  her  domestic  relations,  are  not  to  be 
esteemed  lightly.  Yet,  such  testimony  may  be  fully  ad- 
mitted Avithout  removing  the  impression,  common  in  Eng- 
land and  America  at  the  time  of  her  death,  that  she  was 
unhappily  married.  If  disappointed  in  her  hopes  of  happi- 
ness in  that  relation,  in  which  her  sanguine  and  confiding 
nature  taught  her  to  expect  her  highest  happiness,  her  pride 
would  have  kept  the  secret  of  that  disappointment  in  the 
inmost  sanctum  of  her  soul,  to  be  divulged  only  to  the 
nearest  and  dearest,  and  to  be  buried  with  her  among  the 
arcana  of  the  tomb. 

This  is  tlic  darkest  side  of  the  picture  ;  charity,  and  pei- 
haps  justice,  to  one  who  can  no  longer  speak  for  himself, 
demands  tliat  avc  shall  seek  some  other  solution  of  the 
mystery.  May  she  not  have  died  from  the  effects  of  one 
of  those  spasms  which  she  so  much  dreaded  ?  or,  as  her 
physician  thought,  "  by  an  over-doso "  of  the  deadly  i^re- 
paration,  taken  jjerhaps  to  prevent  such  an  attack  ? 

An  old  negro,  who  was  valet  to  Mr.  Maclean  when  the 
death  took  place,  was  with  us  when  we  visited  the  room  and 
the  grave  of  L.  E.  L. ;  but  he  refused  to  answer  any  ques- 
tions regarding  her  death. 

Governor  Maclean  is  represented  as  having  been  an  inde- 
fatigable, prudent,  and  honest  man.  lie  fulfilled  the  func- 
tions of  his  oflico  to  the  satisfaction  of  his  government,  and 
Avilh  advantage  to  the  cause  of  civilization ;  but  with  his 
character  and  the  habits  of  his  life  before  us,  we  are  com- 
pelled to  admit  the  conclusion  that  he  lacked  the  qualities 


224       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

necessary  to  render  Iiim  a  sxiitable  comjianion  and  husband 
for  so  tender,  confiding,  and  aifectionate  a  person  as  was 
Miss  Landon.  Governor  Maclean  died  at  the  castle  in 
1847,  much  lamented  by  the  natives  and  Eurojoean  resi- 
dents. The  natives  suspended  their  usual  em2)loyments,  and 
made  a  mourning  for  him  which  lasted  for  several  days. 
Chiefs  from  a  distance  contmued  to  come  in  for  weeks 
after  his  death,  to  discharge  their  muskets  near  his  grave, 
in  token  of  their  resi^ect  for  his  memory,  and  "to  speak 
words  of  praise."  He  was  buried  beside  his  wife,  in  a  stone 
vault  of  the  court  of  the  Castle.  There,  in  the  sleep  that  is 
dreamless,  and  deaf  alike  to  the  adulations  and  reproaches 
of  men,  they  await  the  day  when  the  secrets  of  all  hearts 
shall  be  disclosed,  and  God  shall  judge  the  world  in  righte- 
ousness by  Jesus  Christ. 

From  a  small  marble  tablet,  let  into  the  wall  of  the  main 
building,  and  ten  paces  from  her  grave,  we  copied  the 
following  inscription,  to  which  we  add  a  free  translation ; 

"  Ilicjacet  sepultvm 
Omne  quod  mortalefuit 

LETITIJE  ELIZABETHS  MACLEAN. 

Quara  cgrogia  ornatam  indole 
Musis  unice  amatam, 
Omniumquc  amorcs  Sccum  trahcntiim 
In  ipso  tetatis  flore, 
Mors  imniatura  rapuit, 

Die  Octobris  XV.  A  D.  MDCCCXXXVIIL 
Stat.  XXXVI. 

Quod  epectag,  viator,  marmor, 
Vanura  lieu  doloris  monumeutum 
Coiijux  ma3rcn3  crcxit." 


GTTLF  OF  GUINEA. 


225 


Here  lies  buried 

All  that  was  mortal 
Of  Letitia  Elizabeth  Maclean  ; 
Whom,  endowed  with  rare  genius, 
Singularly  favored  by  the  Muses, 
Attracting  to  herself  the  love  of  all. 
Death  prematurely  snatched  away 
In  the  flower  of  her  age, 
On  the  15th  of  October,  1838, 

Aged  36  years. 

0  Traveller !  the  marble  which  thou  beholdest, 

Vain  memorial  of  his  grief, 

A  sorrowing  husband  has  erected. 

Ten  days  before  our  arrival  at  Cape  Coast  Castle,  we 
were  at  Cape  Palmas,  and  there  learned  the  particulars 
relating  to  the  death  of  Miss  Staunton,  the  American 
Methodist  missionary.  That  sad  event  was,  therefore, 
prominently  in  mind  when  we  visited  the  grave  of 
Mrs.  Maclean,  and,  without  intending  it,  we  found  our- 
selves making  a  few  striking  points  of  resemblance  and  con- 
trast between  these  remarkable  women. 

The  points  of  similarity  in  character  or  circumstances  are 
few. 

They  were  both  in  the  prime  of  life ;  they  had  been 
reared  tenderly ;  they  were  loved  by  all  who  knew  them  ; 
they  were  in  intellect  cultivated,  and  in  taste  refined; 
both  possessed  largely  the  graces  of  person  and  manner 
which  adorn  virtuous  and  lovely  women ;  they  went  to 
Africa ;  they  died  there. 

How  different  the  motives  which  led  them  to  that  distant 
shore  !  One  went  in  obedience  to  conjugal  love — a  heroine 
truly — to  be  with  her  husband  was  her  choice,  to  render 

10* 


226       PEESONAL  ADYENTDRES  AND  OBSEKVATIOXS. 


him  happy,  her  end.  The  other,  in  obedience  to  the 
23roinptings  of  that  heart  of  universal  charity  which  religion 
giveth  to  her  children,  went  for  the  love  of  souls ;  to  win 
men  to  righteousness,  her  employment ;  to  glorify  her 
Saviour,  her  end.  How  different  were  their  engagements 
while  they  lived  there  ?  One,  though  devoted  to  her 
husband's  Avishes,  and  careful  in  the  discharge  of  every 
domestic  duty,  was  not  so  unselfish  as  to  forget  her  reputa- 
tion in  the  literary  world.  The  flattery  received  had  given 
thirst  for  more,  and  amid  the  duties  of  her  new  sphere,  she 
found  time  and  inclination  to  prepare  sketches  of  Walter 
Scott's  heroines  for  the  mUlions  who  delighted  in  the  pro- 
ductions of  her  fruitful  mind.  The  other,  while  battling 
with  a  disease  which,  like  a  thirsty  vampire,  sat  constantly 
at  her  heart,  drinking  uj)  the  life-current  as  it  flowed  from 
its  pure  fountain,  devoted  her  time  to  the  school-house,  and 
her  thoughts  to  teaching  savage  children  the  way  to  Christ 
and  heaven. 

How  differently,  and  inconsistently,  did  men  speak  of 
their  going  to  Africa !  Of  one  they  said,  "  She  has  made  a 
good  match ;  she  ought  to  go  with  her  husband ;  by  that 
means  she  will  secure,  after  her  return,  a  comfortable 
establishment."  Of  the  other,  they  said,  with  feigned 
sym2>athy :  "  Poor  misguided  girl !"  "  She  is  throwing  her- 
self away !"  "  She  is  a  fanatic  !"  Aye,  and  harsher  things 
than  these  were  said,  which  we  may  not  "write,  but  with 
which  the  ears  of  missionaries  are  familiar. 

But  they  died  !  The  life  of  one  may  be  compared  to  the 
course  of  the  moon,  which,  after  walking  in  beauty  through 
the  heavens,  receiving  the  admiration  of  millions  and  charm- 
ing them  Avith  the  brightness  of  her  shining,  goes  down 


GTTLF  OF  GTJINEA.  227 

amid  clouds  of  murky  darkness.  That  of  the  other  to  the 
modest  glimmeriug  of  a  tiny  star,  -which,  after  attracting 
the  gaze  of  a  thoughtful  fcAv  by  the  pure  serenity  of  her 
beaming,  fades  away  in  the  bright  light  of  morning.  Shall 
■vre  jjursue  them  further  ?  "We  would  not  rush  "  where 
angels  fear  to  tread ;"  but  in  life  so  pure,  and  to  the  last 
60  strong  was  the  faith,  so  clear  the  mental  vision  of  things 
eternal,  so  bright  the  hopes  of  heaven,  so  amjile  the  testi- 
mony to  the  sustaining  power  of  grace,  of  the  missionary 
girl,  that  we  may  rest  assured  that  she  has  passed  to  a 
glorious  inheritance.  The  eyes  that  closed,  so  gently,  on 
that  Couch  of  pain,  to  scenes  of  African  depravity  and 
wi'etchedness,  are  now  gazing  on  the  beauties  of  the  Lamb 
and  the  glories  of  the  upper  sky. 

"  Thou'rt  at  rest — having  taught  them  what  rock  to  rely  on — 
And  hast  doft  the  fair  robes  which  to  virgins  belong. 
But  the  next  robe  for  thee  was  the  white  robe  of  Zion — 
The  next  sound  thou  heard'st  was  the  Seraphim's  song !" 

L.  E.  L.  sleeps  on  a  desolate  rock  beside  the  sea,  on  a 
lonely  shore ;  and  thei-e  the  heavy  surf  in  deep-voiced 
moans  shall  chant  lier  wild  sad  requiem  until  the  earth  and 
the  sea  shall  give  up  their  dead,  Iler  name  shall  live  while 
the  English  language  endfires  ;  her  grave  shall  be  guarded 
as  a  sacred  thing  while  the  British  flag  floats  over  African 
soil.  It  will  be  visited  by  curious  travellers,  and  wonder- 
ing savages,  for  ages  to  come.  Her  praise  shall  be  spoken 
by  generations  yet  unborn — but  she  is  dead  to  flattery  and 
to  fame !  If  these  were  her  objects,  she  has  her  reward  ; 
but  how  poor  in  the  possession !  How  deserving  of  human 
sympathy!  If,  as  we  sometimes  hope,  she  aspired  to  honors 


228       PEESONAI.  ADVEimJEES  AIJD  OESEKTATIONS, 


more  enduring  tlian  those  of  earth,  God,  ■who  knoweth  the 
heart,  "vrill  fulfill  all  her  desires ;  and  in  the  fair  paradise 
where  the  disembodied  pure  abide,  her  capacious  powers 
may  revel  in  the  noontide  of  bliss  and  knowledge. 

The  name  and  the  resting-place  of  Miss  Staunton  will  be 
forgotten  by  the  next  generation ;  but  angel  guards  shall 
keep  watch  and  -ward  beside  that  silent  tomb ;  and,  when 
the  missionary  martyrs  are  called  to  be  partakers  in  the  first 
resurrection,  she  shall  rise  with  those  who  have  turned 
many  to  righteousness,  and  a  bright  star  in  the  firma- 
ment of  God's  own  dwelling-place  shall  shine  forever  and 
forever.  • 

As  we  stood  at  the  grave  of  Mrs.  Maclean,  we  remem- 
bered a  few  lines  of  her  own  sweet  verse,  peculiarly  appli- 
cable to  the  occasion.  They  are  from  "  The  Hermit's 
Grave."  How  far  was  it  from  the  thoughts  of  the  fair 
composer,  that  strangers  from  another  hemisphere  would 
find  them  appropriate  to  her  own  last  home  and  final 
resting-jilace. 

"  It  was  a  scene  where  faith  would  take 
Lessons  from  all  it  saw, 
And  feci  amid  its  depths  that  hope 
Was  God's  and  Nature's  law. 
The  past  might  here  be  wept  away, 
The  future  might  renew 
Its  early  confidence  in  heaven, 
When  years  and  sins  were  few  : 
Till,  in  the  strength  of  penitence, 
To  the  worst  sinner  given, 
The  grave  would  seem  a  resting-place 
Between  this  world  and  heaven." 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


ACCEA. 

Accra  ia  Sight — Come  to  an  Anchor — Canoes  and  Traders — A  word  for 
Pets — Forts — Exports — Fillibustcring — English — Civilization — Drcsa — 
Houses — Missions — "  The  Service  " — Mr.  Bowen — Things  to  be  Re- 
gretted— Governor  Bannerman — Gold  Rings — A  Native  Goldsmith — 
Indian  Corn — A  Primitive  Mill — The  Gazelle. 

"  Now  for  the  gold  rings,  leopard  claws,  and  grey  monkey 
skins !"  exclaimed  one  of  the  master's  mates,  as  he  came 
rattling  down  the  steerage  ladder. 

"  What's  the  matter,  Charley  ?"  said  one  of  his  compan- 
ions, suddenly  waking  from  a  nap  that  he  had  been  taking 
on  a  camp-stool,  with  the  bulkhead  for  a  pillow. 

"  Accra's  in  sight,  and  the  commodore  has  given  orders 
to  stand  in  and  come  to  anchor." 

Two  hours  later  (3.30  p.m.,  December  22,  1856),  and  Ave 
were  anchored  Avithin  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  the  forts 
and  town  of  Accra,  and  in  the  open  sea. 

We  were  soon  surrounded  by  a  fleet  of  canoes,  containing 
nude  Guinea-men,  eager  and  most  noisy  competitors  in  the 
sale  of  live  monkeys,  pigs,  parrots,  yams,  bananas,  and  pine- 
apples. These  gentlemen  are  content  to  do  business  on  a 
very  small  scale.  Here  is  a  craft  containing  four  men,  Avho 
have  come  off'  to  sell  a  small  and  A'cry  lean  pig,  for  wliich 
they  ask  a  dollar,  but  will  take  less.  There's  another,  con- 
taining two  men  and  a  boy,  whose  stock  in  trade  consists  of 
a  bunch  of  plantains,  for  which  they  ask  a  dollar,  but  will 


230       PERSONAI,  ADVENTTJEES  AKD  OBSEKVATIONS. 


take  anything,  in  silver,  as  large  as  a  dime.  Yonder  is  an- 
other, in  charge  of  a  grey-headed  gentleman,  who  wears  a 
scarf  of  several  yards  of  blue  calico  over  his  sho\ilders,  and 
calls  himself  "  a  merchant."  His  canoe  is  large,  and  manned 
by  five  boys,  who  seem  very  obedient  to  his  gravely-given 
orders.  He  has  several  parrots,  a  monkey,  a  few  badly 
dressed  leopards'  skins  and  paws,  gazelle's  feet,  and  porcu- 
pine quills.  Our  men  look  very  wistfully  at  the  paiTots  and 
monkeys,  but  pets  have  been  interdicted,  our  number  being 
complete ;  they  have  but  little  money,  and  the  skins 
are  dear,  so  trade  is  confined  to  porcuj^ine  quills  and 
fruit. 

We  have  no  sympathy  with  that  rigorous  enforcement  of 
discipline  which  allows  of  no  recreation,  no  pets,  and  no 
fun,  on  board  of  men-of-war.  A  monkey  or  two,  a  few  jsar- 
rots  or  other  birds,  on  board  ship,  contribute  to  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  men,  and  help  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  their 
tedious  life.  Especially  on  the  African  station,  where  the 
enervating  effects  of  climate  tend  to  produce  depression  of 
spirits,  such  thmgs  are  useful,  as  conducing  to  health  as 
well  as  pleasure.  To  keep  them  in  proper  bounds  is  in  the 
power  of  every  commander,  and  he  is  a  very  weak  man 
who  cannot  preserve  discii^line  but  by  depriving  his  men 
of  this  small  but  much  desired  indulgence.  A  ship  of  war 
should  not  be  converted  into  a  menagerie,  of  course,  nor  yet 
should  it  be  a  penitentiary.  The  union  of  the  utile  et  dulce 
is  possible  here,  as  everywhere,  in  the  labors  of  life.  But 
the  days  are  well-nigh  past  when  officers  were  offended 
to  see  their  men  laugh,  and  regretted  that  the  sun  shone  as 
brightly  for  the  man  as  for  the  master.  There  are,  how- 
ever, a  few  of  the  old  regime  left,  and  we  wish  them,  very 


ACCBA. 


231 


cordially,  a  pleasant  voyage  to — wherever  they  are  going 
beyond  the  Styx. 

Along  the  shore,  at  this  point,  and  -within  sight  of  each 
other,  are  several  forts,  belonging  to  European  powers. 
The  villages  around  them  bear  the  common  name  of  Accra, 
distinguished  by  the  titles  of  the  forts  to  which  they  are 
attached.  The  English,  French,  and  Danish  Accras  are 
large  towns,  numbei-ing  together  over  ten  thousand  souls.  Of 
these,  English  Accra  is  the  largest  in  population,  and  most 
important  in  trade.  The  population  is  over  five  thousand, 
and  the  exports  in  palm  oil  and  ivory  are  heavy.  They  may 
be  estimated  together  at  675,000  annually.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  gold,  brought  in  by  the  Ashantees,  are  also  ex- 
ported from  this  place.  The  English,  of  course,  get  the 
lion's  share,  and  the  remainder  is  divided  in  about  equal 
proportions  between  the  American,  French,  and  Dutch 
traders. 

The  forts  of  the  Danes  at  Accra,  and  four  other  places 
on  the  Gold  Coast,  have  recently  been  sold  to  the  British 
crown  for  $50,000.  Thus,  and  by  lawful  means,  is  England 
lengthening  her  cords  and  strengthening  her  stakes  on  the 
shores  of  Guinea.  We  like  filibustering  when  it  is  done 
honestly,  and  hence  we  see  with  pleasure  the  widening  in- 
fluence of  our  cousin  over  African  peoples  and  territories. 

When  the  natives  of  Danish  Accra  heard  that  they  were 
to  change  their  masters,  they  received  the  tidings  with  the 
wildest  enthusiasm,  and,  with  shouts  for  Victoria  and  pro- 
cessions ill  her  iionor,  welcomed  tlie  rule  of  her  majesty, 
and  the  new  era  in  their  history.  The  superiority  of  Eng- 
lish rule  and  civilization  in  elevating  African  humanity,  may 
be  Been  in  the  advanced  condition  of  the  natives  in  the 


232       PEKSONAi  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


English  territories,  as  compared  -with  those  of  territories 
under  other  foreign  influence.  This  appears  in  a  forcible 
light  when  we  compare  Cape  Coast  Town  Avith  Elmina. 
The  facts  and  figures  that  we  have  given,  will  show  that 
civilization  and  Chi'istianity  are  making  progress  in  the 
former  place  at  a  rate,  and  of  a  character,  which  inspire 
hopes  of  the  final  triumph  of  truth  and  the  arts  of  peace. 

Travellers,  among  whom  is  the  intelligent  and  worthy 
missionary  of  the  Southern  Baptist  Board,  J.  F.  Bowen, 
agree,  that  of  all  the  corrujit  places  in  Africa,  Elmina  is  the 
worst.  Mr.  B.  thinks,  that  in  their  present  condition  the 
l^eople  are  beyond  the  reach  of  the  Gospel.  After  seeing 
most  of  the  important  towns  between  Morocco  and  Bengu- 
ela,  I  am  prepared  to  give  them  the  honor  (for  such,  no 
doubt,  they  would  consider  it)  of  being  the  vilest  and  most 
shameless  sinners  on  the  West  Coast,  Yet  this  is  the  same 
tribe  which,  at  Cape  Coast,  a  place  but  eight  miles  distant, 
has  yielded  so  many  noble  specimens  of  pious  and  intelli- 
gent Christians.  British  rule  is  stern,  implacable  and  ex- 
acting, it  is  true,  yet  how  much  soever  berated,  and  how 
justly  soever,  by  the  enemies  of  Anglo-Saxon  civilization 
and  Protestant  Christianity,  it  may  be,  the  establishment 
of  true  religion,  the  prosperity  of  commerce,  the  progress 
of  humanity,  demand  that  in  Africa,  as  in  India,  we  shall 
wish  it  enlargement  and  prosperity.  Where  Jonathan 
can't  enter,  he  will  over  say,  "  Go  on,  John,  it  is  all  in  the 
family," 

The  country  around  Accra  is  hillj"  and  picturesque. 
Heavy  timbers,  if  they  ever  existed  here,  have  long  ago 
disappeared,  except  in  the  valleys  ;  yet  the  hills  are  covered 
with  green  bramble,  and  present  the  appearance  of  old 


ACCRA. 


233 


fields  turned  out  to  rest.  The  people  are  said  to  be  trea- 
cherous, and  as  long  fingered  as  any  of  their  neighbors ; 
indeed,  the  distinctions,  meum  and  tuum,  are  not  perfectli/ 
understood  on  any  part  of  the  coast ;  yet,  having  often  laid 
myself  open  to  losses  of  personal  property  without  much 
damage,  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  rogues  are  not 
qmte  so  bad  as  they  are  sometimes  represented. 

The  dress  of  the  people  is  almost  too  scant  to  be  de- 
scribed. "With  the  men,  it  Taries  fi-om  a  piece  of  twine 
and  a  charm  or  two,  to  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  shirt,  and 
umbrella ;  and  with  the  ladies  from  a  string  of  beads  and  a 
bright  bandana  handkerchief  to  a  whole  petticoat  and  two 
or  three  pounds  of  beads.  Such  is  human  nature  in  Africa. 
Would  that,  like  truth,  it  were  "  when  unadorned  adorned 
the  most."  Then,  truly,  its  beauty  would  be  beyond 
praise. 

The  houses  at  Accra  are  generally  two  stories  high,  having 
mud  walls,  and  long  steep  roofs  of  grass.  Many  of  the 
buildings  are  of  stone  ;  and  the  streets  between  them  are 
seldom  more  than  six  feet  wide.  TLc  principal  traders  of 
the  place  are  English-bom  mulattoes  and  blacks.  They 
live  in  comfortable  houses,  and  arc,  in  many  instances,  intel- 
ligent and  reliable  men.  The  "Wesleyans  have  a  mission 
here ;  and  thongh,  for  a  few  years  past,  it  has  had  to  strug- 
gle for  an  existence,  it  is  now  improving,  and  rests  at  last, 
we  trust,  on  a  permanent  basis.  The  mission  is  composed 
of  1  missionary,  3  local  preachers,  16  school  teachers,  100 
members,  270  day  scholars.  A  German  Protestant  mission, 
within  fifiy  miles  of  Accra,  is  reported  to  be  in  a  prosperous 
eoodition. 

I  would  here  refer  once  more  to  the  advantages  of  a  Utur- 


234       PEESONAL  ADVKNTUHES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


gy  among  recent  converts  from  heathenism.  Mr.  Bowen, 
who,  like  Baptist  ministers  generally,  seems  to  have  a  very 
low  appreciation  of  "the  service,"  without  intending  it, 
l^ays  the  following  tribute  to  its  adaptedness  to  the  tastes 
and  wants  of  Africans :  "  To  kneel  a  little  and  to  stand  a 
little,  by  turns,  to  chant  the  doxology  [?]  and  repeat  the 
Lord's  Prayer  in  concert,  to  bow  the  knee  mechanically 
when  they  repeat  the  name  of  Jesus  in  the  Creed,  to  ex- 
claim '  Good  Lord  deliver  us,'  in  solemn  set  tones  twenty 
times  successively  in  the  responses  of  the  litany,"  [Where 
does  Mr.  B.  find  that  litany?  Not  in  the  Wesleyan  "  Sun- 
day-service," nor  in  the  Episcopal  Book  of  Common  Prayer] 
"  all  this  has  a  strong  hold  on  the  hearts  of  the  people^ 
because  it  is  congenial  to  their  natural  /eelings.^'  This  he 
says  of  "  converts." 

Whatever  may  be  said  of  the  use  of  precomposed  forma 
of  prayer  by  the  masses  of  the  Christian  church,  satisfied 
we  are  that  to  two  classes  they  are  needful,  not  to  say  in- 
dispensable :  the  highly  cultivated  in  taste  and  intellect, 
and  the  simple-minded  and  ignorant.  To  the  former,  the 
liturgy  of  the  Episcopal  and  Methodist  churches  furnishes 
forms  of  prayer  Avhich,  whUe  they  meet  wants  of  the  spirit- 
ual nature,  and  satisfy  in  their  amplitude,  conciseness  and 
sense,  the  demands  of  the  intellect,  are  in  harmony  with  the 
most  cultivated  taste.  To  the  latter,  it  furnishes  language, 
which,  Avhile  it  fully  conveys  the  dovoutest  aspirations  of 
the  soul,  awakens  thought  leading  to  enlarged  desires  and 
conscious  wants.  The  excellence  and  appropriateness  of  the 
many  extemporaneous  prayers  which  we  heard  offered  up  in 
Africa  by  native  Cliristians,  we  traced  to  that  inimitable 
pervice  in  which  the  Wesleyan  converts  breathe  their  first 


ACCRA. 


235 


vows  and  jn-ayers  to  their  newly  found  Saviour.  It  has 
been  said  that  these  converts  repeat  their  prayers  "  mechani- 
cally ;"  that  they  speak  them  "  as  parrots  speak,"  etc.  I 
found  many  school  children  of  whom  these  things  might  be 
said  in  truth ;  but  after  much  inquiry  I  have  not  found  one 
Methodist  or  Episcopal  "member"  to  whom  the  service  was 
not  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  in  proportion  to  the  intelli- 
gence and  spirituality,  a  means  of  grace  and  a  furnisher  of 
devotional  thought  and  language. 

To  follow  tlie  novelties  and  ramblings  of  ordinary  extem- 
jjoraneous  prayer,  adopting  each  new  thought  and  utter- 
ance, in  a  devotional  frame  of  mind,  requires  more  spiritual 
and  mental  discijiline  than  the  Christians  of  Africa  have  yet 
received ;  and  perhaps  by  the  time  that  they  shall  have 
received  that  training,  they  will  find  out,  with  John  Ran- 
dolph, tliat  many  of  such  prayers  are  "  abominable  to  God 
and  man."  There  are  occasions  when  extemporaneous 
prayer  is  needful,  indispensable ;  there  arc  occasions,  also, 
when  the  well-digested  forms  which  arc  the  birthright  of 
Methodism,  may  be  used  to  advantage  above  any  form  that 
might  be  composed  on  the  spur  of  the  moment.  Wesley 
recognized  this  truth  ;  and  it  is  the  glory,  the  strength  of 
Wesleyan  Methodism,  that  it  employs  both  instruments, 
and  thus  adapts  itself  to  all  circumstances,  and  "  all  sorts 
and  conditions  of  men."  In  Africa,  we  see  missionaries 
quite  as  evangelical,  quite  as  zealous,  quite  as  well  supplied 
with  means,  as  the  Wesleyan  missionaries,  but  we  do  not 
see  the  same  results  following  their  labors ;  and  alter  a 
careful  study  of  the  ellects  of  the  various  creeds,  and  forms 
of  service  and  discipline,  on  the  African  mind,  temperament 
and  surroundings,  wo  have  concluded  that  the  secret  of 


236        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Wesleyan  success  is  in  "Wesleyan  training;  and  that  tbe 
most  valuable  agent  in  this,  coordinate  ■with  the  class-meet- 
ing, is  the  liturgy  of  the  Protestant  Church.  In  view  of 
these  facts,  we  thank  Mr.  Bowen  for  adding  to  our  assur- 
ance that  "  these  things  take  hold  of  the  hearts  of  the  peo- 
ple ;"  and  we  very  piously  ejaculate,  Amen !  It  is  to  be 
regreited  that  clergymen,  non-liturgical,  speak  so  lightly  as 
they  do  sometimes  of  jorayers  sent  down  to  us  by  our 
fathers,  and  perfumed  with  the  blood  of  the  martyrs.  Still 
further  is  it  to  be  regretted  that  they  speak  unkindly,  as 
do  also  the  strict  prayer-book  men,  of  those  who,  while 
they  will  not  be  tied  down  to  the  liturgy,  do  not  discard  it. 
Above  all,  is  it  not  a  jnty  that  modern  Methodist  preachers 
sometimes  bring  up  the  oft-refuted  argument  of  "  want  of 
variety," — which,  by  the  way,  applies  as  Avell  to  the  Lord's 
Prayer — and  speak  lightly  of  the  forms  in  which  young 
Methodism  uttered  her  infant  prayers  in  the  nursery  at  Ox- 
ford, and  m  which  Wesley,  Coke  and  Asbury,  spoke  their 
most  earnest  petitions  and  benedictions  ? 

His  excellency  Governor  Bannerman  is  an  Enghsh  mulat- 
to, a  refined  and  strong-minded  gentleman,  held  in  great 
respect  by  English  and  American  cruisers,  and  possessing 
great  mfluence  over  the  surrounding  tribes. 

The  gold  rings  for  which  Accra  is  celebrated  are  manu- 
factured from  imalloyed  gold  by  native  workmen.  They 
are  either  molded  or  made  of  plated  wire,  and  are  often 
quite  pretty,  though  roughly  finished  as  compared  with  the 
work  of  civilized  artisans.  I  sat  by  one  of  these  goldsmiths, 
who  had  his  traps  in  a  little  court  before  his  house,  and 
witnessed  his  manipulations  for  an  hour  or  more.  His  tools 
consisted  of  a  hammer,  a  small  anvil,  two  or  three  pairs  of 


ACCEA. 


237 


pincers,  a  cold  chisel  oi"  two,  and  an  earthen  crucible  or 
smelting  pot.  At  first  he  did  not  seem  to  enjoy  my  intru- 
sion— thought,  perhaps,  that  I  was  learning  the  secrets  of 
his  trade — but  when  I  praised  his  ingenuity,  which  I  did 
honestly,  for  he  handled  his  tools  avcU,  he  seemed  pleased 
to  have  me  remain,  and  showed  me  sijecimens  of  his  work. 
The  rings  are  sold  for  their  weight  in  American  or  English 
gold  coin. 

Cowries — small  sea-shells — {spec.  Gyprea  moneta)  are 
extensively  used  here,  and  on  the  Gold  Coast  generally,  as 
small  change  currency ;  but  they  are  not  very  convenient, 
as  it  takes  2,500  of  them,  about  six  pounds  in  weight,  to 
make  a  dollar.  They  are  imported  from  the  South  Coast, 
or  find  their  way  through  the  interior,  where  they  are  the 
principal  currency. 

An  excellent  article  of  Indian  corn  is  produced  on  this 
part  of  the  coast.  That  which  we  have  seen  is  the  variety 
known  among  our  planters  as  the  white  flint  corn,  and  this 
is  the  only  kmd  which  we  saw  on  the  Gold  Coast.  The 
mode  of  grinding  is  peculiar.  A  slab  of  granite,  or  other 
coarse-grained  stone,  is  set  on  an  incluied  bench  or  bank  ; 
the  grahi,  after  being  soaked,  is  placed  upon  it  and  rubbed 
by  another  stone  of  the  same  material,  oblong,  and  of  two 
or  three  pounds  in  weight,  which  the  operator  holds  in  her 
hands.  When  reduced  to  the  state  of  hominy,  it  is  rolled 
into  balls  and  sold  in  the  markets.  It  is  generally  cooked 
by  boiling,  or,  rolled  in  leaves,  is  baked  in  the  ashes.  The 
balls  do  not  seem  any  the  less  valuable  for  being  largely 
moiestcned  by  the  perspiration  of  the  opcratoi-,  and  the 
heavy  percentage  of  dead  flies  and  gnats  that  go  to  mako 
up  the  mass. 


238        PEKSONAL  ADVENTTTKES  AND  OBSEKV AXIOMS. 

Gazelles,  the  most  beautiful  and  diminutive  members  of 
the  deer  family,  are  numerous  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  but 
are  rarely  taken  alive,  and  soon  die  in  captivity.  We  pur- 
chased the  skin  of  one  having  the  legs  and  feet  attached, 
and  hoped  by  stuffing  to  restore  the  outlines  of  the  animal, 
but  on  undertaking  the  task  found  that  a  large  portion  of 
the  head  was  wanting.  The  little  creature  from  which  this 
skin  was  taken  would  have  measured  in  height,  at  the  shoul- 
der, eighteen  inches,  and  in  length  twenty-four  inches,  from 
the  nose  to  the  base  of  the  tail.  The  legs  at  the  knee  are 
no  larger  than  a  stout  goose  quill,  and  from  that  point  to 
the  extremity  of  the  hoof  are  five  inches  long. 

But  the  anchor  is  up,  and  we  are  standing  on  our  course 
toward  the  Volta  and  the  Niger. 


CHAPTER  XXn. 


SLAVE  COAST. 

The  River  Volta — Its  Tribes — A  Yankee  Slaver — Topography  of  the 
Coast  of  Guinea— Is  the  Coast  still  Rising  ? — Deadly  Shores — Quita — A 
Native  King — A  Walk  through  Quita — Ilogs — Poultry — Cattle — Fruit 
— Parrots  and  Monkeys— A  Modest  Girl — Population — Spinning  and 
"Weaving— Baptist  Missionaries— Little  Popo — Grand  Popo — Whyda. 

In  the  afternoon  of  December  23cl,  1856,  we  crosed  the 
mouth  of  the  River  Volta,  but  so  far  out  at  sea  as  to  bo 
able  to  distinguish  nothing  but  the  deep  green  outline  of 
the  land,  resting  like  a  dark  cloud  on  the  horizon.  In  run- 
ning down  the  coast  in  1855,  we  were  as  close  under  the 
shore  at  this  point  as  was  safe  for  a  vessel  drawing  nineteen 
feet  of  water,  and,  ascending  to  the  mizzen-top,  I  obtained 
a  good  view  of  the  river  and  the  densely  wooded  plains 
througli  which  its  dark  waters  roll  to  their  home  in  the  sea. 
Like  most  of  the  rivers  of  Africa,  this  has  a  very  shallow 
bar,  ten  feet — and  that  at  high  tide — is  its  greatest  depth 
of  water ;  but  when  the  bar  is  crossed,  the  river  is  navigable 
for  many  miles. 

The  tribes  who  inhabit  its  banks  have  been  among  the 
most  vigorous  and  cruel  prosecutors  of  the  slave  strade,  and 
to  this  day  they  are  ready,  whenever  a  Yankee  craft  makes 
signal,  to  ship,  in  a  few  hours,  hundreds  of  their  neighbors. 
It  is  said  by  old  traders  on  the  coast,  that,  rather  than  suf- 
fer in  their  reputation  for  promptness  in  supplying  "  livo 
cargoes,'^  -these  remorseless  robbers  will,  when  prisoners  are 

239 


24:0        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


scarce  and  neighbors  hard  to  catch,  sell  their  •wives  and 
children,  and  deliver  them  on  the  deck  of  the  slaver  for  a 
few  dollars  each. 

A  story  -was  told  us  of  a  Yankee  captain  Avho  visited  this 
river  lately.  After  paying  the  headmen,  or  traders,  for 
five  hundred  lively  darkeys,  he  in^ated  them  into  his  cabin 
to  take  a  drink.  He  was  profuse  in  his  hospitaUty,  made 
them  all  drunk,  put  them  in  ii-ons,  sank  their  canoes,  pock- 
eted their  money,  and  got  under  weigh.  Two  of  the 
twenty-five  thus  taken  jumped  overboard  shortly  after,  and 
were  drowned ;  the  remainder  he  sold  in  Cuba  for  four 
hundred  dollars  each ! 

Were  we  to  look  for  this  shrewd  gentleman  now,  he 
would  likely  be  found  occupying  a  neat  cottage,  with  green 
blinds  and  brass  door-knobs,  somewhere  in  Massachusetts,  a 
warm  advocate  of  aboHtionism  and  "  higher  law." 

Could  the  waters  of  this  bar  tell  their  own  story,  we 
would  hear  of  the  tumult  of  revolt  in  slave  canoes,  and  the 
destruction  of  captors  and  captives ;  cries  of  anguish  from 
I^arents  torn  from  their  children,  and  from  children  torn 
from  their  parents  ;  and  of  the  sea  being  red  with  the  blood 
of  men,  thrown  a  prey  to  the  ravenous  sharks  which  infest 
these  waters,  in  order  to  lighten  the  slaver  of  her  cargo  on 
the  approach  of  a  man  of  Avar.  Countless  thousands  will 
arise  from  these  polluted  Avaves  when  the  sea  shall  give  up 
her  dead  demanding  eternal  vengeance  on  their  heartless 
murderers;  and  among  these  shall  be  mighty  merchants 
and  captains  bearing  the  Christian  name. 

While  Ave  arc  rolling  on  for  Quita,  which  is  still  eighteen 
liours  distant,  Ave  Avill  indulge  in  a  note  of  the  comparative 
topography  of  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea. 


SLATE  COAST. 


241 


Passing  along  the  coast  of  Liberia,  we  pointed  out  the 
volcanic  formations  and  evidences  of  recent  volcanic  dis- 
turbances abundant  about  Monrovia  (the  coast  of  Sierra 
Leone  belongs  to  the  same  period),  and  these  are  traceable 
as  fai-  as  Cape  Palmas.  At  Elmina,  we  enter  a  country,  or 
surface  rather,  of  a  more  ancient  period,  characterized  by 
nimierous  conical  bills  and  narrow  vaUeys,  and  bearing 
abundantly  formations  of  the  plutonic  and  metamorphic  sys- 
tems :  granite,  gneiss,  quartz,  sandstone,  etc. ;  and  in  the 
valleys,  an  aurilerons  or  gold-bearing  alluvium.  The  bluffs 
in  the  vicinity  of  Accra  (that  upon  which  the  English  fort 
stands  we  ascertained  to  be  thirty-six  feet  high)  indicate 
that  their  highest  strata  were  once  on  a  level  with  the  sea, 
and  during  long  periods  received  the  action  of  the  waves. 
This  shows  the  elevation  of  this  part  of  the  coast  also ;  an 
effect  which  likely  was  produced  by  the  same  forces  which 
protruded  volcanic  matter,  and  more  decidedly  marked  the 
surface  on  the  coast  further  north.  It  has  been  thonght  that 
the  shore  of  the  Gold  Coast  continues  to  rise,  or,  as  some 
express  it,  that  the  sea  continues  to  retii'e ;  but  the  foundations 
of  the  forts  of  Elmina  and  Cape  Coast  Castle,  which  stand 
on  the  beach,  do  not  indicate  any  change  of  position  in 
relation  to  high-water  mark,  since  their  establishment,  three 
hundred  and  fifty  years  ago. 

How  far  this  system  extends  into  the  interior  or  coast- 
wise east  of  Accra,  we  are  not  prepared  to  say,  having  loft 
the  coast  at  that  point,  but  as  we  approach  the  Volta  we 
enter  a  district  which,  along  the  gulf  at  least,  is  more 
recent  than  cither  of  the  two  districts  just  referred  to. 
Timbered  savannas,  marshes,  sand-beds  and  lagoons  diver- 
sify its  ^*urface ;  and  this  continues  to  be  its  character  down 

11 


242        PEKSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


to  the  deltas  of  the  Niger,  and  perhajjs  beyond.  The 
lagoons  which  here  traverse  the  beach  are  from  a  hundred 
yards  to  two  miles  in  width ;  they  receive  many  large 
creeks  and  streams,  and  are  gradually  filling  up  with  earthy 
and  vegetable  matter.  The  bar  which  di^ddes  them  from 
the  sea  is  rapidly  widening  by  the  accimaiilation  of  sand 
throwTi  up  by  the  action  of  the  tide-waves  ;  and  when  the 
present  chain  of  lakes  is  filled,  the  causes  which  produced  them 
will  produce  others  still  further  seaward.  Such,  doubtless, 
has  been  the  process  in  the  formation  of  this  low  and  fenny 
coast.  PestUence  broods  over  it  continually,  and  ^\'oe  to 
the  white  man  who  sleeps  even  for  a  single  night  beneath 
her  deadly  breath.  Traders  and  cruisers  anchor  a  mile  from 
the  shore,  and  have  learned  by  sad  experience  never  to 
delay  their  return  to  the  ship  after  sunset.  Yet  the  natives 
of  this  country  are  hearty-looking  races.  Missionaries  have 
braved  its  dangers,  and  endured  them  for  a  while,  sustained 
by  Him  who  temijcreth  the  winds  to  the  shorn  lamb ;  but 
African  fever,  which  on  the  Gold  Coast  is  rare,  is  here  pre- 
valent and  fatal,  and  the  white  man,  sooner  or  later,  must 
fall  before  it. 

The  white  houses  of  Quita  are  gUsteuing  in  the  morning 
sun,  and  look  cool  and  cheerful  amidst  the  cocoanut  forests 
Avhich  surround  and  shade  them.  When  we  visited  tliis 
place  twelve  months  previously,  the  king  paid  a  visit  to  our 
ship  ;  but  we  had  been  sufficiently  amused  by  African  kings, 
and  attached  but  little  importance  to  his  visit.  He  called 
on  the  commodore  and  commander,  and  then  condescended 
to  the  ward-room,  where  he  spent  a  couple  of  hours  in 
moody  silence.  I  gave  liis  higlincss,  quite  unintentionally, 
an  unpardonable  offence,  by  askmg  him  if  he  was  not  vice- 


SLAVE  COAST. 


243 


roy  to  the  king  of  Dahomey.  Assuming  a  scowl  of  injured 
dignity,  he  replied,  "  No ;  I  king  mese'f,  an'  bigger  dan 
king  ob  Domys !"  Whatever  may  be  his  relation  to  Da- 
liomey  now,  his  tribe  were  long  tributary  to  that  great  inte- 
rior kingdom,  as  have  been  most  of  the  tribes  on  the  Bight 
of  Benin.  But  so  vain  and  unreliable  are  African  chiefs,  that 
it  is  impossible  to  obtain  from  them  any  truth  regarding  the 
extent  or  relations  of  territories.  His  majesty  wore  a  straw 
hat — the  only  whole  straw  hat  I  ever  saw  on  the  head  of  a 
heathen  ebony — a  white  cotton  jacket,  and  a  blue  cotton 
scarf  folded  into  the  shape  of  a  petticoat.  He  carried  a 
large  gold-headed  cane  in  his  hand,  had  heavy  gold  earrings 
in  his  ears,  and  a  dozen  or  more  gold  rings  on  his  fingers.  I 
Avas  for  a  while  the  only  entertainer  of  the  king  in  the  ward- 
room ;  and  having  occasion  to  step  out,  I  found,  on  my 
return,  mj  valet  de  chambre^  a  black  ward-room  boy,  trying 
to  persuade  his  majesty  to  accept  of  a  bundle  of  old  clothes 
and  shoes,  in  exchange  for  a  few  of  his  gold  rings.  I  sent 
my  tiger  on  deck  to  report  himself "  for  impudence,"  and 
made  an  apology  to  his  majesty,  for  Avhich  I  received  a  royal 
grunt.  I  fear  the  old  gentleman  entertains  a  low  estimate 
of  American  respect  for  black  royalty. 

On  the  moraing  of  December  24,  185G,  we  came  to  an- 
chor within  two  miles  of  Quita.  As  our  purser  was  going 
ashore  to  buy  beeves,  I  accepted  his  offer  of  a  passage,  and 
took  a  walk,  of  several  hours'  length,  in  the  town  and  its 
vicinity. 

The  Avhite  liouses  which  present  so  imposing  an  aspect  to 
a  beholder  in  the  roadstead,  are  two  story  buildings  of  stone, 
occupied  by  the  king,  and  by  English  merchants  of  African 
blood.   The  small  fort  on  the  beach  is  one  of  those  lately 


244:        PERSONAL  ADVENTTTEES  AND  OBSEKYATIONS. 

purchased  by  England  fi'om  Denmark.  It  contains  a  few 
brass  guns,  and  is  occupied  by  a  sergeant  and  corporal's 
guard.  The  houses  of  the  natives  resemble  those  described 
at  Elmina,  but  they  are  generally  more  cleanly,  not  so  close 
together,  and  are  not  quite  so  abundantly  sujiplied  with 
lizards  and  snakes — reptiles  that  are  largely  represented  in 
the  huts  of  African  towns,  and  which  live  on  terms  of  inti- 
macy with  the  women  and  children.  These  snakes  are  large 
and  black,  and  are  regarded  by.  the  natives  with  religious 
reverence.  To  kill  one  is  a  serious  offence,  and  the  mur- 
derer may  consider  himself  doomed  to  a  life  of  misfortime 
and  a  death  of  pain. 

Quita  is  the  Cincinnati  of  Guinea.  The  hogs  seem  to  be 
as  numerous  as  the  people,  and  have  villages  of  their  own 
on  the  neighboring  beach  and  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  The 
poultry  market  is  M'ell  supplied,  but  the  prices  are  high. 
Cattle  are  abundant  but  small.  The  full  grown  bullocks 
which  we  purchased  did  not  average  two  hundred  pounds, 
gross,  and  cost  twenty  dollars  a  head.  There  arc  no  large 
cattle  on  the  West  Coast,  and  those  that  are  there  produce 
inferior  meat.  Plantains,  cocoa-nuts,  and  pine  apples  are 
abundant  and  good.  "We  bought  a  few  pine-apples  in  the 
morning  at  ten  cents  each,  and  in  the  evening  a  few  more 
at  ten  cents  a  dozen.  This  will  give  the  reader  some  idea 
of  the  unsettled  state  of  prices  in  African  markets.  Parrots 
and  monkeys  were  offered  us  at  two  dollars  each  for  the 
birds,  and  "what  you  like  give"  for  the  little  tailed  boys. 
African  heats  had  cooled  our  love  for  pets,  but  fearing  that 
we  should  not  again  visit  the  sliore  in  the  grey  parrot  re- 
gion, which  extends  seven  or  eight  degrees  on  each  side  of 
the  equator,  and  remembeiing  that  we  had  quieted  the  fare- 


SLAVE  COAST. 


245 


well  sobs  of  our  "little  "Willie,"  with  the  promise  of  a 
"  Polly,"  I  purchased  a  red-tailed  prattler,  which  afterward 
turned  out  to  be  a  remarkable  bird.  The  African  parrot  is 
intelligent,  long-lived,  and  capable  of  imitating  any  tone  of 
voice,  or  sound  of  musical  instrument. 

After  strolling  in  the  hot  sim  for  an  hour  or  two,  my  com- 
panion. Lieutenant  H.,  proposed  that  we  should  rest  awhile 
among  a  few  umbrageous  cocoa-nut  trees,  which  stood  near 
a  large  hut  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  We  knocked 
down  some  green  nuts,  and  seating  ourselves  comfortably 
commenced  sampling  the  cool  fluid  which  Thomson  de- 
scribes as 

"  More  beauteous  far  than  all  the  frantic  juice 
Which  Bacchus  pours." 

While  thus  engaged,  a  young  lady  from  the  hut  at  our 
backs  came  to  claim  pay.  She  did  not  discover  that  we 
were  white,  until  in  answer  to  her  call  Ave  faced  about ;  she 
uttered  a  scream,  and  bounded  like  a  deer  back  to  the  hut; 
and  like  a  deer  her  bounds  were  unembarrassed  by  hoops  or 
skirts.  After  a  while  she  gained  courage  enough  to  come 
to  the  hedge  of  tlic  garden  and  motioned  to  us  to  leave  the 
pay  on  the  ground.  We  dropped  a  piece  of  silver,  which? 
when  we  had  removed  a  few  hundred  yards,  she  picked  up 
and  acknowledged  by  bows  and  courtesies. 

The  people  of  Quita,  who  number  5,000,  are  more  industri- 
ous and  modest  than  any  of  the  tribes  that  we  have  seen  to 
tlie  north  or  west  of  them.  We  saw  several  women  spinning 
cotton  with  a  distaff — a  slow  process  truly  ;  an  active  Amer- 
ican wonian,  with  a  wheel,  could  spin  more  than  forty  of 
ihem  together — and  others  weavmg,  on  very  simple  looms, 


246       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSET5VATIONS. 


cotton  cloth  six  inches  wide.  At  the  entrance  of  the  town, 
and  near  the  king's  house,  we  saw  two  rude  images  of  stone, 
around  which  were  scattered  shells  of  eggs  that  had  been 
broken  as  a  sacrifice  on  the  heads  of  these  deities.  This  is 
the  nearest  apj^roach  to  idolatry  that  we  have  seen  in  Africa, 
and  these  are  not  joroperly  idols,  as  they  are  not  invoked. 

The  surf  was  running  to  a  terrific  height  when  we  left 
the  shore  in  the  evening.  "We  Avent  through  it  in  a  large 
canoe,  paddled  by  twenty  yelling  savages,  and  surrounded 
by  scores  of  ravenous  sharks,  which  came  within  a  few  feet 
of  us,  and  seemed  anxious  for  a  taste  of  wliite  man — black 
man  is  very  common  fare  with  them.  Accidents  are  here 
numerous  and  fatal. 

The  bark  Hermitage  came  to  anchor  alongside  of  us  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  She  had  on  board  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
Priest  and  Carson  and  their  wives ;  all  on  their  way  to 
Lagos,  whence  they  were  to  go  ujj  to  Yoruba,  to  join  the 
Baptist  mission  in  that  country.  They  are  all  southerners, 
and  persons  of  high  standing.  We  intended  visiting  them, 
but  the  commodore  ordered  the  ship  to  sea  immediately  on 
our  return  from  shore.  God  grant  them  health  and  suc- 
cess. 

Sixty-five  thousand  gallons  of  palm  oil  were  exported 
from  Quita  in  the  year  1855.  Ivory,  honey,  hides  and  wax 
in  small  quantities. 

In  December,  1855,  we  went  to  tlio  northeastern  extre- 
mity of  the  Bight  of  Benin,  visiting  the  towns  of  Little  Pojio, 
Grand  Popo,  and  Whyda. 

Little  Popo  contains  a  few  houses  in  the  European  style, 
residences  of  black  merchants,  and  with  the  many  brightly- 
colored  flags  which  they  display  when  a  war  ship  i)asses, 


SLAVE  COAST. 


247 


they  present  a  pretty  appearance.  George  Lawson,  a  colored 
man,  who  claims  to  be  an  English  subject,  is  king  de  facto^ 
and  the  principal  merchant  of  the  place.  He  can  furnish  you 
with  anything  produced  in  Africa,  from  a  chicken  to  a  cargo 
of  slaves.  George  wears  the  clothes  of  a  Euroj^ean,  has  tra- 
velled in  "  de  Europe,"  is  a  rich  man,  and  an  enormous 
scoundrel.  Great  Popo  is  a  place  of  no  interest.  The  town 
composed  of  mud  huts  nestled  among  cocoa-nut  trees,  stands 
on  the  beach.  Xothing  but  the  signal  of  a  slaver  can  bring 
out  its  lazy  inhabitants. 

Whyda  is  a  town  of  several  thousand  lazy  and  dirty 
peo2ile.  It  is  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore,  on 
the  banks  of  a  lagoon.  Several  of  its  native  merchants  are 
men  of  wealth,  but  very  unreliable.  Pigs,  2)oultry,  and 
fruit  are  abundant  and  chea}).  At  all  of  these  places,  and 
also  at  Badagry,  the  second  town  to  the  south  of  us,  the 
Messrs.  Hutton,  of  London,  have  agencies  for  the  purchase 
of  palm  oil  and  other  native  productions.  We  were  desirous 
of  visiting  Badagry,  as  there  are  a  few  Methodist  mission-, 
aries  there  of  whom  the  English  officers  whom  avo  met  at 
AVhyda  spoke  in  the  highest  praise.*  These  tribes  are  all 
attached  to  the  kingdom  of  Dahomey,  but  many  of  them, 

•  The  Metbodist  missionary  force  on  tlie  Gulf  of  Guinea  may  be  thus 
stated :  Stations  10  ;  missionaries  10  ;  school  teachers  100  ;  local  preachers 
(natives)  27  ;  churches  20 ;  communicants  and  probationers  2,000  ;  day- 
Bchool  scholars  1,500;  persons  who  attend  preaching,  and  arc  more  or 
less  under  missionary  inQuencc  10,000.  Besides  these,  there  are  three 
mis.sion  stations  supported  by  the  churches  of  the  English  51issionary 
Society,  and  two  or  three  German  missions.  The  interest  which  the 
goverument  of  Great  Britain  takes  in  her  Guinea  possessions  is,  in  part, 
evidenced  by  her  annual  expenditure  of  more  than  $40,C00  in  maintain- 
ing forts  for  the  protection  of  English  traders.  This  does  not  include 
any  of  the  expenses  of  her  African  fleet. 


248        PEESONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


preserving  their  language  and  national  peculiarities,  are 
governed  by  a  viceroy  api^ointed  by  the  king  of  that  country. 
Lagos,  an  important  trading  and  naission  town,  is  near  at  hand.* 

*  Exports  of  Lagos. — The  town  of  Lagos  is  founded  on  the  northern 
extremity  of  a  small  island  of  the  same  name,  and  may  be  considered  as 
the  seaport  town  of  Dahomey  and  Benin.  The  following  are  the  quanti- 
ties and  value  of  the  exports  for  the  year  1857  : 


Palm  Oil,  4,942  tons,  value,        .      .      .    '   $1,111,950 

Ivory,  24,11S  lbs.,         "    21,100 

863  bags  Cotton,  averaging  132  lbs.,  value   1T,960 

Cotton  Cloths,  native  woven,  50,000,   "    125,000 


Total  value,  $1,275,900 


The  value  of  the  palm  oil  annually  exported  from  the  shores  of  Benin 
must  be  something  lilie  ten  millions  of  dollars?.  This  oil  is,  and  is  destined 
to  be,  the  staple  of  the  West  Coast.  In  its  production  but  little  capital 
or  labor  is  required,  and  nothing  is  to  be  feared  from  competition.  Eng- 
lish cotton  l)uyers  arc  doing  much  to  encourage  the  cultivation  and 
cleaning  of  cotton  on  the  West  Coast,  with  the  hope  of  bringing  it  into 
competition  with  American  cotton,  and  thus  free  themselves  from  their 
present  total  dependence  on  the  southern  planters.  Should  this  hope 
ever  be  realized,  it  will  not  be  by  the  present  or  the  next  generation  of 
buyers.  Indeed  we  think  it  highly  questionable  whether  the  time  ever 
will  come  when  the  efifect  of  African  cotton  in  the  markets  of  Europe 
will  be  to  cheapen  the  American  staple. 

Other  crops  will  be  found  more  profitable,  and  require  less  labor ;  the 
cost  of  producing,  cleaning,  and  exporting,  with  the  present  means  for 
cultivating  and  ginning,  are  such  as  to  prevent  its  being  sold  in  England 
for  less  than  the  American  cotton  (the  civihzation  which  will  improve 
the  means  will  also  increase  the  price,  by  increasing  the  wants  of  the 
producers),  and  withal  the  cotton  is  of  inferior  quality. 

The  highest  classification  that  it  has  received,  and  that  from  the  most 
sanguine  friends  of  Africa,  is  "  middling  fair,"  and  that  by  the  time  it  is 
landed  in  Liverpool  will  tost  quite  as  much  as  New  Orleans  middling. 
We  wish  our  Libcrian  friends  success  in  their  cotton-growing  enterprise. 
The  production  of  a  few  hundred  thousand  bales  of  African  cotton,  annu- 
ally, in  the  English  market,  would  be  an  advantage  to  the  American 
planter  in  giving  steadiness  to  prices.    The  quantity  of  cotton  exported 


SLAVE  COAST. 


249 


But  the  reader  must  be  tired  of  coasting,  and  the  monotony 
of  Guinea  towns ;  so  let  us  away,  for  change  and  recreation, 
to  the  beautiful  Isles  of  Biafra. 

from  the  West  Coast,  in  1858,  was  220,000  lbs. — equal  to  the  crop  of 
some  of  our  Mississippi  plantations. 


11* 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


ISLANDS  OF  BIAFEA. 

Geography — Opinion  of  the  Ancients — Scenery,  Vegetation,  etc. — The 
Inhabitants — ^Fernando  Po ;  discovered ;  ceded  to  Spain ;  leased  to  the 
English ;  Clarence ;  Grave  of  Lander — Prince's  Island,  Appearance, 
Discovery,  Colonization,  Inhabitants,  Romanism,  etc. — Naiads — St. 
Thomas — Annobon — Corisco — Presbyterian  Mission. 

In  the  Bight  of  Biafra,  and  between  the  parallels  of  longi- 
tude 5°  and  9°  east,  and  latitude  4°  north  and  2°  south, 
are  situated  four  beautiful  islands,  Fernando  Po,  Prince's 
Island,  St.  Thomas,  and  Annobon,  Like  most  islands  of 
volcanic  origin,  these  are  high,  jagged  and  broken  in  out- 
line ;  their  surfaces  are  varied  by  abrupt  hills  and  moun- 
tains, chasms,  deep  and  tortuous  valleys,  relieved  occasion- 
ally by  plateaus  and  gentle  slopes.  Their  grotesque  sum- 
mits, terminating  in  dome  or  turret  or  spire-like  masses, 
pierce  the  clouds ;  during  the  rainy  season,  these  heights 
are  bathed  in  ceaseless  showers,  and  when  the  storm  pre- 
vails, the  lightnings  which  flash  from  the  thunder-clouds 
which  they  attract  to  their  sides,  give  them  the  appear- 
ance of  volcanoes  ejecting  streams  of  liquid  fire  far  into  the 
sky. 

It  was  the  opinion  of  the  ancients,  and  indeed  of  the 
moderns,  until  the  navigators  of  Portugal  penetrated  the 
tropic  of  Capricorn,  that  the  regions  of  Africa  which  lie 
near  and  beyond  the  equator,  were  parched  by  intolerable 
heats  and  droughts,  and  produced  neither  animal  nor  vege- 

250 


ISLANDS  OF  BIAPEA. 


251 


table  life,  except  noxious  ■n  eeds  and  poisonous  reptiles. 
The  heats  of  Cancer  and  Capricorn  are  oppressive,  it  is 
true,  and  in  a  great  part  of  Africa  almost  intolerable  to  the 
white  man ;  but,  so  far  is  the  rest  of  their  picture  from 
being  correct,  that  rains  are  more  abimdant  ia  the  tropical 
portions  of  Africa  than  in  Europe. 

Nature,  as  if  to  compensate  for  the  intensity  of  the  heat, 
grants  them  cool  breezes,  dewy  nights,  and  refreshing 
thunder-storms,  with  a  liberality  unknown  beyond  these 
realms  of  light.  The  islands,  though  in  the  latitudes  of 
eternal  summer,  are  clothed  with  the  richest  and  most 
luxuriant  vegetation  ;  even  the  tallest  peaks  are  green  with 
the  bramble  and  creeping  vines  which  find  life  in  the  moist 
and  soil-filled  crevices ;  and  in  many  of  the  deep  valleys,  so 
dense  is  the  canopy  of  foliage,  spread  by  huge  timbers  and 
parasitic  shrubs  which  grow  upon  their  branches,  that  sun- 
beams never  enter  to  scatter  the  mists  of  morning.  In 
these  shades  the  atmosphere  is  always  moist  and  cool,  and 
here  birds  of  gayest  plumage  congregate,  to  find  shelter 
from  the  heat  of  noontide ;  and  scaly  l  eptiles,  and  busy 
insects  make  in  them  their  abodes.  The  clouds  which  shed 
constant  moisture  on  the  mountain  tops  are  feeders  of 
streams,  which,  after  leaping  from  cliff"  and  crevice  on  the 
heights,  pursue  a  serpentine  course  do^VTi  the  slopes,  foam- 
ing and  roaring  as  they  go ;  and,  after  winding  with  more 
sober  pace  and  softer  music  through  the  deep  and  shady 
valleys,  and  giving  drink  to  man  and  beast  on  the  way, 
enter  the  bright  bosom  of  the  tropical  sea.  The  islands  are 
as  rich  and  varied  in  fruit  as  they  are  abundant  in  flora. 
The  "goodly  boughs"  o£  the  palm-tree  yield  constant 
harvests ;  the  delicious  pine-apple,  the  juicy  sour  sop,  the 


252       PEESOXAL  ADTEXTHRES  AJN'D  OBSEETATIONS. 


mellow  banana,  the  delicate  rose-apple,  the  milky  cocoa-nut, 
and.  the  useful  bread-fruit,  grow  TvUd  upon  the  hUlsides ; 
and  the  cocoa-tree,  and  the  coffee-tree,  yield,  without  culti- 
vation, a  luxuriant  fruitage. 

What,  it  will  be  asked,  are  the  character  and  condition 
of  the  human  inhabitant  of  abodes  where  nature  dwells  in 
such  majesty  and  beauty  ?  "  Give  me  tlie  geography  of 
any  coimtrj-,"  says  M.  Victor  Cousin,  "  and  I  will  give  you 
the  character  of  its  inhabitants."  Without  waiting  to  hear 
the  philosophical  guessing  of  the  venerable  fother  of  eclectic 
philosophy  (for  philosophy,  which  in  its  ideal  state  is 
reasoned  truths  is,  as  apjilied  to  this  and  most  other  practi- 
cal questions,  but  reasoned  guess-icork),  we  will  give  you 
conclusions,  drawn  from  actual  observation.  A  few  there 
are  who  prefer  philosophy  to  experience ;  but  you  and  I, 
dear  reader,  are  not  yet  learned  enough  to  be  of  that 
exalted  class.    But  patience  a  moment. 

The  most  northern  of  these  islands  is  Feniando  Po.  It 
was  discovered  in  the  latter  part  of  the  fifteenth  century  by 
a  Portuguese  nobleman  named  Feraao  do  Poo,  who, 
charmed  with  the  beauty  of  its  appearance,  called  it 
Formosa. 

Alphonso  v.,  reigning  sovereign  at  the  time  of  the 
discovery,  out  of  honor  to  liis  enterprising  subject,  named 
the  island  Fcmfio  do  Poo,  which  title  soon  passed  by  easy 
transition  into  Fernando  Po. 

A  colony  of  Portuguese  w^a  planted  on  it  soon  after  its 
discovery;  the  colonists  reduced  the  natives  to  slavery, 
and  increased  the  number  of  the  slaves  by  importations 
from  the  opposite  coast.  Wars  and  financial  embarrass- 
ments turned  the  attention  of  the  mother  country  from  her 


ISLANDS  OF  BIAFKA. 


253 


colony  in  Biafra ;  many  of  the  first  settlers  were  carried  off 
by  fevers ;  others  intermarried  with  the  negro  inhabitants ; 
and  the  island  Tvas  left  for  many  generations  in  the  pos- 
session of  a  mongrel  and  indolent  race.  In  1728  it  was 
ceded  to  Spain,  in  exchange  for  the  island  of  Trinidad,  W.  I. 
It  is  still  in  her  possession,  bnt  England  has  made  some 
ineffaceable  imjiressions  on  the  character  of  its  inhabitants. 
It  was  for  several  years  in  the  possession  of  the  Enghsh  by 
a  lease  from  the  Spanish  crown ;  they  removed  to  it  several 
hundred  partially  ci\'ilized  blacks  from  Cape  Coast  and 
Sierra  Leone,  and  dej^osited  there  several  cargoes  of 
recaptured  slaves.  They  made  some  effort  to  purchase  the 
island,  but,  failing  in  this,  the  project  of  establishing  there 
a  colony  of  free  blacks  was  abandoned. 

The  valleys  and  hillsides  are  heavily  timbered  with 
valuable  wood;  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  well 
watered  ;  the  climate  is  healthy,  as  compared  with  that  of 
the  adjacent  coast ;  and  it  is  to  be  regretted,  for  the  sake 
of  Christianity  and  civilization  in  Africa,  that  it  is  not  in 
the  possession  of  a  more  Uberal  nation  than  Spain.  The 
English  Baptists  have  there  a  mission  which  has  accom- 
pUshed  much  good  ;  and  among  the  English  colonists — the 
emigrants  from  Sierra  Leone  and  Cape  Coast — there  are  a 
few  Wesleyans,  and  a  few  EpiscopaUans.  The  EngUsh 
town  stands  at  the  liead  of  Clarence  Cove,  a  safe  and  pretty 
harbor ;  it  is  a  coal  depot,  and  the  terminus  of  the  West 
African  Steamship  Line.  A  few  of  tlie  residences  of  the 
Engli.sh  officials  are  tasteful  in  appearance  and  surroundings, 
but  the  town  generally  is  void  of  interest. 

The  colored  population  (5,000)  is  a  degraded  and  igno- 
rant mass — thievish,  indolent,  inoffensive,  useless  beings. 


254        PERSONAL  ADTENTURES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 


Contact  with  Christian  missionaj-ies,  and  civihzed  men  of 
color,  is,  however,  gradually  elevating  this  mass,  and  per- 
meating it  Avith  mural  and  intellectual  life :  but  we  live  in 
daily  expectation  of  hearing  that  the  Spanish  government 
(which  has  once,  already,  silenced  the  Baptist  missionaries) 
has  driven  the  teachers  of  truth  from,  the  island. 

Clarence  is  destined  to  be  a  place  of  great  commercial 
importance.  It  is  already  important  as  a  depot  of  palm-oil, 
cotton,  and  other  African  productions;  and  when  the 
English  shall  have  fully  opened  the  trade  of  the  ISTige?,  an 
enterprise  in  which  they  are  engaged  with  a  zeal  that  is 
sure  of  success,  it  Avill  be  the  commercial  mart  of  western 
Africa.  On  this  island  sleeps  Lander,  the  discoverer  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Niger.  The  heavy  strokes  of  the  paddle- 
wheel  and  the  rush  and  roar  of  steam  engines,  as  they  serve 
the  interests  of  African  commerce,  and  verify  his  prophecy 
in  developing  the  trade  resources  of  the  Niger,  will  soon 
cheer  the  loneliness  of  his  resting-place,  and  form  befitting 
music  to  the  memory  of  one  who  spent  his  life  in  pre- 
paring the  way  for  commerce  and  civilization  in  Africa. 

We  entered  "West  Bay,  Prince's  Island,  in  the  forenoon 
of  Dec.  2'7th,  1855,  and  remained  there  until  January  2, 
185G:r  Tired  with  the  sameness  of  the  shore  scenery  in  the 
Bight  of  Benin,  and  sick  of  the  disgusting  phases  which 
humanity  presents  on  the  coast  of  Guinea,  we  hailed  with 
joy  the  leaf-clad  peaks  of  Prince's  Island,  as  they  loomed 
up  in  the  mellow  sunlight  of  that  December  moi'uing  ;  and 
nature,  arrayed  in  equatorial  splendor  and  loveliness, 
seemed  to  be  inviting  \is  to  communion  Avith  herself.  It 
was  the  rainy  season ;  heavy  showers  had  follen  the  pre- 
vious night ;  the  atmosphere  was  cool,  and  the  land  breeze 


ISLANDS  OF  EIAFEA. 


255 


was  fresh  and  invigoratiog.  The  steep  and  conical  hills 
which  rise  from  the  beach  to  the  height  of  several  hundred 
feet,  forming  the  foreground  of  the  scene,  were  covered  to 
their  summits  with  vegetation  of  the  richest  green  ;  here  a 
huge  breod-fruit,  and  there  a  giant  palm,  raised  their  jn-oud 
heads  above  the  surrounding  timber  ;  streams  leaped  from 
the  hills,  as  if  moved  by  sportive  life,  foi-ming  here  roaring 
and  serpentine  torrents,  and  there  bounding  over  chffs  of 
■wildest  contour,  forming  cascades  which  glistened  in  the 
morning  sun  like  streams  of  pearls  and  diamonds.  The 
blue  summer  ocean,  as  if  in  sympathy  with  the  serenity  of 
the  morning  and  the  calm  beauty  of  the  scene,  rolled 
around  us  in  gentle  undulations,  and  laved  the  shores  of  the 
lovely  island  with  waves  that  made  music  in  their  flow. 
Our  beautiful  ship  glided  into  the  snug  little  harbor,  as  if 
dra^vn  by  some  attraction  on  the  shore,  and  at  8  a.m.  we 
dropped  anchor  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water. 

Prince's  Island  Avas  discovered  on  the  17th  of  January, 
1471,  by  the  Portuguese  navigators  Santarem  and  Escabor, 
Avho  called  it  San  Antonio,  out  of  respect  to  the  patron 
saint  of  the  day  on  which  it  was  discovered.  The  name  was 
some  time  after  changed  to  Prince's  Island,  because  its 
revenues  were  appropriated  to  the  oldest  son  of  the  king 
of  Portugal.  It  is  nine  miles  long  and  seven  broad,  and  is 
situated  in  lat.  1°  25'  north,  and  long.  7°  20'  east.  It  was 
colonized  soon  after  the  island  of  Fernando  Po,  and  for 
awhile  received  much  attention  from  the  crown  of  Portugal ; 
but  its  trade  and  importance  have  been  gradually  declining 
for  a  century  or  more.  Its  poimlation,  which  numbers  near 
5,000,  may  be  classed  as  follows :  mLxcd  bloods,  150 ;  white 
Portuguese,  who,  excepting  two  or  three  priests,  are  govern- 


256        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


ment  oflGicers,  25  or  30 ;  free  negroes,  1,150.  The  remainder 
are  slaves.  The  mulattoes  are  a  sickly-looking  race,  but 
the  negroes  are  well-built  and  intelligent-looking  feUows. 
So  far  as  they  are  anything  religiously,  they  are  Romanists, 
and  they  know  just  as  much  about  Romanism  as  Romanism 
knows  about  them,  and  no  more ;  but  Avherein  they  are 
lacking  in  knowledge  of  the  teachings  of  the  church,  they 
supply  themselves  with  superstitions  brought  by  their 
fathers  from  the  banks  of  the  Gaboon.  Judging  from 
theii'  appearance,  we  would  say  that  the  most  prominent 
articles  of  belief  among  them  are  opposition  to  work,  clothes, 
and  soap  and  water.  Any  change  in  their  civil  or  social 
condition  would  be  an  advancement,  for  they  occupy  the 
ne  ^lus  ultra  of  human  ignorance  and  debasement. 

"  The  world's  a  stage  and  all  the  men  and  women  players," 
quoth  William.  Will  some  friend  of  William  tell  us  what 
part  these  chaps  play  in  the  tragedy,  or  comedy,  which  you 
please,  of  human  life  ?  We  once  assigned  them  a  place  on 
the  stage  with  the  group  who  play  at  do-nothing ;  but  a 
moment  after  Ave  remembered  that  the  fellows  wUl  not  even 
play ;  and  again  we  were  puzzled  to  find  any  room  for  them 
on  this  Avorld's  stage.  They  may  be  holding  themselves  in 
reserve  for  some  important  act  in  the  drama  of  the  life  to 
come. 

St.  Anthony,  the  only  tOAvn  of  the  island,  stands  at  the 
head  of  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  contains  about  half  the 
population.  Its  buildings  show  signs  of  a  taste  and  an  enter- 
prise in  the  people  which  have  long  passed  away.  Large 
quantities  of  sugar  were  formerly  produced  here,  but  the 
present  insignificant  exports  are  confined  to  coffee  and  cocoa, 
both  of  superior  quality,  and  a  little  camwood  and  ebony. 


ISLAXD3  OF  BIAFRA. 


257 


The  only  remarkable  person  of  the  island,  and  the  largest 
slave  and  land-owner  on  it,  is  Madame  Fereira,  a  lady  of 
eccentric  but  strong  and  cultivated  mind,  who,  like  Lady 
Hester  Stanhope,  prefers  the  associations  of  half  savage  life 
to  the  restraints  of  civilized  and  enlightened  society.  West 
Bay  is  a  favorite  resort  with  our  African  cruisers.  The 
water  is  excellent ;  fruits,  pigs,  poultry  and  wood,  are 
abundant  and  cheap  ;  but  let  the  cruiser  be  careful  to  bark 
and  smoke  his  wood  well  before  taking  it  on  board,  lest  he 
convey  to  his  ship  scorpions  and  tarantulas,  which  are  here 
numerous  and  poisonous.  If  not  afraid  of  anacondas  and 
venomous  reptiles  without  number,  he  may  take  his  gim 
and  amuse  himself  in  hunting  monkeys ;  but  if,  like  the 
m-iter,  he  fears  to  break  the  sixth  commandment  by  shoot- 
ing these  little  cousms  of  the  human  biped,  he  can  prome- 
nade the  little  strand  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  bathe  in  the 
cool  stream  which  empties  near  the  landing,  and  gather 
rare  specimens  for  his  herbarium  or  geological  collection ; 
refreshing  himself  occasionally  with  a  delicious  pine-apple 
or  juicy  sour-sop;  accompanied  the  while  by  the  shrill 
whistles  of  tlie  gaily  plumed  king-fishers  as  they  pounce 
upon  the  unwary  minnows  of  the  rapid  stream.  We  have 
a  tingling  recollection  of  a  bath  we  took  one  day  in  said 
stream,  in  company  with  friends  B.  T.  and  W.  Divest- 
ing ourselves  of  the  imnatural  habits  Avhich  tailors  make 
for  us,  and  civilized  taste  requires  us  to  put  on,  wo 
plunged  into  a  clear  and  well-shaded  pool.  "We  had 
scarcely  entered  when  a  couple  of  ebony-colored  lasses 
made  their  appearance  on  the  bank  a  hundred  yards  above 
us,  and,  supposing  that  the  example  of  civilized  men  might 
bo  safely  followed,  they  too  laid  aside  all  unnatural  append 


258        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


ages  of  person  and  entered  tlie  stream.  Ye  nymphs  of 
Solyma,  thought  I,  what  next !  We  approached  the  cover 
of  some  large  rocks,  there  intending  to  hide  and  bide  our 
time,  but  as  one  of  our  chaps  would  look  at  them,  they 
thought  that  we  were  interested  in  their  innocent  gambols, 
and  kindly  wishing  to  give  us  a  nearer  view,  they  came 
bounding  from  rock  to  rock,  and  pool  to  pool,  until  they 
were  in  our  very  midst.  Our  memories  of  what  followed 
are  rather  confused  ;  but  we  have  a  distinct  recollection  of 
the  disappearance  of  sundry  white  legs  bearing  bundles  of 
clothes  into  the  neighboring  bushes,  snakes  or  no  snakes ! 
We  arrived  on  the  beach  in  time  to  see  one  of  tlie  parity 
emerge  from  a  thicket  with  his  pantaloons  in  his  teeth  and 
his  shoes  in  his  hands,  the  remainder  of  his  wardrobe  having 
tarried  behind  on  the  bushes  to  mark  the  path  of  his  un- 
gallant  retreat. 

We  did  not  visit  the  islands  of  St.  Thomas  and  Annobon, 
but  the  following  notes  may  not  be  imintercsting  to  the 
reader.  St.  Thomas  was  discovered  a  few  weeks  before 
Prince's  Island,  and  by  the  same  navigators.  It  was  named 
after  the  patron  saint  of  the  day  of  its  discovery,  December 
21st.  It  is  the  most  important  of  the  Isles  of  Biafra  in 
population  and  commerce.  Its  exports  of  cofiee,  cocoa, 
lignum  vitce  and  ebony,  arc  by  no  means  insignificant,  and 
its  population,  which  is  variously  estimated  at  from  ten  to 
fifteen  thousand,  two-thirds  of  whom  are  slaves,  is  said  to 
be  more  enterprising  and  intelligent  than  that  of  .its  neigh- 
bor. Annobon,  or,  as  it  is  written  by  the  Portuguese, 
Anno  Bon — good  year — was  discovered  ten  days  after  St. 
Thomas,  and  by  the  same  navigators — wliose  ])ilot,  by  the 
way,  was  one  Martino  Fei-nandez — It  was  colonized  by  For- 


ISLAJSIDS  OF  BIAFKA. 


259 


tuguese  iu  the  sixteenth  century.  Slaves  were  conveyed  to 
it  from  the  neighboring  coast ;  but  the  colony  did  not  pros- 
per, and  the  island  was  soon  left  in  possession  of  the  slaves. 
The  population  at  present  is  estimated  at  3,000.  It  is  the 
smallest  of  the  Islands  of  Biafra,  and  is  but  seldom  visited. 
It  abounds  in  fruits,  and  produces  lignum  vitcje  and  ebony. 

The  coast  which  lies  opposite  to  these  islands  is  a  fertile, 
well  watered  and  populous  country.  That  portion  of  it 
which  is  bounded  north  by  the  Cameroon  mountains,  and 
south  by  the  northern  boundary  of  the  district  of  Loango, 
contains  numerous  tribes,  known  by  the  general  name  of 
Pongoes.  Rev.  J.  Leighton  Wilson,  in  his  valuable  work 
on  "  Western  Africa,"  tells  us  that  several  of  these  tribes 
arc  distinguished  for  their  mental  and  physical  develop- 
ments. Midway  on  the  shore  of  this  district  is  the  Bay  of 
Corisco,  and  in  it  is  an  island  of  the  same  name,  on  which 
the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  has  established 
a  mission.  In  common  with  all  other  missions  in  Africa, 
this  has  met  with  reverses.  Mrs.  Mackey,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Simpson,  Mrs.  Williams,  the  noble  companion  of  our  dearly 
beloved  brother  and  fellow  statesman.  Rev.  E.  T.  Williams, 
now  of  Monrovia,  and  perhaps  others  since  we  left  those 
latitudes,  have  given  their  lives  for  its  ransom.  But  Pres- 
byterians are  not  to  be  discouraged ;  they  advance  like 
heavy  artillery,  slowly,  it  may  bo,  but  with  firm  tread  and 
resistless  force.  The  language  of  the  Coriscoes  has  been 
reduced  tp  writing  and  grammatical  construction,  and 
through  it  access  may  now  be  had  to  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  adjoining  tribes.  The  time,  we  think,  is  not  distant 
when,  through  their  instrumentality,  the  tribes  of  tlic  Muni, 
the  Gaboon  and  the  Congo,  shall  hear  iu  their  own  tongues 


260       PEESONAI.  ADVENTTJKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 

the  tidings  of  salvation  in  the  name  of  Jesus.  We  humbly 
offer  our  concurrence  in  the  opinion  of  the  respected  author 
quoted  above,  that  the  lives  of  our  missionaries  on  the  West 
Coast  might  be  prolonged  by  frequent  visits  to  the  more 
elevated  of  these  islands. 

But  the  Magellan  Clouds  and  stranger  constellations  are 
bidding  us  welcome  to  the  southern  hemisphere;  our 
coursers  are  set,  and  we  are  gliding  gently  through  the 
equatorial  calms  toward  St.  Paul's,  Loando.  Health  to  the 
lovely  isles,  and  grace  to  the  Christian  mission  in  the  Bight 
of  Biafra. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


SOXJTHEKN  GUINEA. 

Indications  of  Approacli  of  Land — Crossing  the  Mouth  of  the  Congo — 
Loango — Geography,  Climate,  Harbors,  Population,  Religion — Congo 
River — English  men-of-war  and  Yankee  Clippers — Humanity  (!)  of 
American  Slavers — Geography  of  Congo — Ethnology — The  Congoes — 
Topography — Trade — Slavery,  domestic — Religion  of  the  Congoes — 
Conversion  to  Roman  Catholicism — Relapse  to  Heathenism,  and  why 
— Religious  Character  of  the  African. 

On  the  13th  of  January,  1856,  w  hile  standmg  to  the  south 
befoi'c  a  seven  knot  breeze,  we  encountered  patches  of  drift, 
composed  of  sticks,  bamboo,  grass,  and  other  river  debris; 
land  birds  liglited  on  the  rigging,  and  the  -water  assuming  a 
muddy  tint,  indicated  that  we  were  near  land,  and  in  the 
mouth  of  a  large  river.  An  observation  at  meridian  showed 
that  we  were  crossing  the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  the  most 
noted  and  important  river  of  Southern  Guinea :  noted  for 
the  number  of  slaves  which  it  has  furnished  to  North  and 
South  America,  and  the  West  Indies;  and  important  for 
the  trade  in  i>"ory,  palm  oil,  rhinoceros  tusks,  and  other 
African  productions,  which  has  long  flourished,  and  is  now 
rajjidly  increasing  on  its  banks  and  tributaries.  We  trust 
that  the  time  is  near,  when  it  will  be  known  as  the  port  of 
entry  to  the  Mission  stations  of  Congo  and  Loango.  On 
the  north  bank  of  the  Congo,  and  stretching  along  the  coast 
of  the  southern  borders  of  Pongo,  lies  the  territory  of 
Loango,  commonly  called  the  kingdom  of  Loango.  It  Avould 
be  more  correct  to  say  the  kingdoms  of  Loango,  as  the 

201 


262       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


country  is  inhabited  by  several  tribes,  who  maintain  inde- 
pendent governments. 

This  country,  which  is  bounded  eastward  by  a  mountain 
chain  called  Sierra  del  Crystal,  or  Crystal  Moiiutains,  is 
said  to  be  densely  pojiulated,  and  fertile,  and  more  healthy 
than  any  other  part  of  the  coast  within  the  same  distance  of 
the  equator.  It  possesses  two  excellent  harbors,  Loango 
proper,  and  Kabenda ;  and  cruisers  who  have  visited  these, 
report  good  markets,  and  live  stock  and  vegetables  at  low 
prices.  The  population  is  variously  estimated  at  from  sixty 
to  one  hundred  thousand.  Some  of  its  tribes  are  distin- 
guished for  intelligence  and  ingenuity.  When  Roman  Ca- 
tholicism held  sway  over  the  adjoining  kingdom  of  Congo, 
the  i^eople  of  Loango  also  became  nominally  Christians ;  but 
they  soon  returned  to  the  native  religion,  which  is  a  mixture 
of  fetishism,  Romanism  and  idolatry. 

The  Congo  River  was  discovered  by  Portuguese  naviga- 
tors in  the  year  1485  ;  and  on  the  banks  of  its  ujjper  waters, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  Crystal  Mountains  they  established 
a  trading  station,  call  St.  Salvador,  which  has  become  noted 
in  the  history  of  African  trade  and  slaving.  The  river,  which 
is  six  miles  wide  at  its  mouth,  possesses  a  good  bar,  and  is 
navigable  to  large  vessels  for  several  miles,  affording  safe 
anchorage.  Knowing  the  people  on  its  banks  to  be  ardent 
lovers  and  prosecutors  of  the  slave-trade,  the  English  keep 
a  war  steamer  constantly  cruising  about  its  mouth  ;  but 
under  cover  of  the  American  flag,  a  Yankee  clipper  goes  in 
occasional!)',  and  watching  an  opportunity,  glides  out  with 
a  cargo  of  "  ebony  and  ivory,"  alias  gentlemen  and  ladies 
of  color.  Sometimes,  however,  the  traitorous  winds  leave 
them  becalmed  on  the  bar,  or  they  make  a  mistake  in 


SOUTHEKN  GUINEA. 


263 


"  guessing  "  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  man-of-war,  or  an 
accident  befalls  them  in  their  flight,  and  they  fall  an  easy- 
prey  to  the  British  Lion.  This  lion,  when  he  goes  to  sea, 
has  a  voracious  appetite  for  kinky  heads  and  black  faces, 
and  when  he  sees  a  cargo  of  them,  he  will  pounce  upon 
them  irrespective  of  the  flag  that  maybe  floating  overhead. 
The  dependence  of  the  chpper  is  her  heels,  and  when  from 
light  winds,  or  other  causes,  these  fail  her,  it  not  unfre- 
quently  happens  that,  as  a  dernier  pas,  she  discharges  her 
load  of  human  beings  into  the  sea,  and  escapes  while  her 
humane  pursuers  are  trying  to  rescue  the  helpless  victims  of 
civilized  cupidity  from  the  hungry  sharks. 

Between  the  Congo  River  and  the  noi-thern  boimdary 
of  Angola  lies  the  kingdom  of  Congo,  so  called,  perhaps, 
for  the  reason  that  at  some  remote  period  the  territoiy  Avith 
its  many  tribes  was  under  the  rule  of  one  sovereign.  Like 
Loango,  it  is  at  present  composed  of  several  independent 
communities,  speaking  different  languages,  but  much  re- 
semblmg  each  other  in  the  form  of  government  and  in  do- 
mestic institutions.  The  roots  of  their  languages,  as  well 
as  their  physical  characteristics,  indicate  a  common  origin 
with  the  tribes  of  Loango ;  which  origin  has  been  referred 
to  an  extensive  family  of  the  plains  of  the  interior.  The 
ethnological  relations  of  the  tribes  of  Africa,  particularly  of 
western  and  central  Africa,  have  been  but  little  studied  ; 
and  owing  to  the  want  of  history,  the  amalgamation  of 
tribes  and  languages  that  have  taken  place  by  conquest,  and 
the  physical  changes  which  have  followed  migrations  from 
tlie  mountains  to  the  seaboard,  or  vice  versd,  but  little  light 
is  to  be  expected.  To  philology  rather  than  physiology  are 
we  to  look  for  anything  useful  or  satisfactory  on  this  subject. 


264       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


The  Congoes,  xinder  which  general  name  we  include  the 
various  tribes  inhabiting  the  Congo  country,  are  an  athletic 
and  long-lived  people ;  quite  as  intelligent  as  any  of  the 
tiibes  of  Upper  Guinea,  and  more  so  than  most  of  them  ; 
inclined  to  industry  above  their  brethren  to  the  north  of  the 
equator,  and  not  lacking  in  ingenuity,  as  their  carved 
wooden  images,  spoons,  and  dishes,  and  well  woven 
-and  brightly  colored  grass  cloths,  will  testify.  Their 
country  is  vastly  Aaried  in  surface  and  scenery.  Wide 
l)laius  basking  in  the  sunshine  of  jjerpetual  summer,  moun- 
tain ranges  sufficiently  high  to  maintain  the  average  tem- 
perature, and  vegetable  forms  of  the  temperate  zones.  The 
sou  is  everywhere  rich ;  the  streams  abound  in  fish ;  the 
forests  are  full  of  game  ;  the  river  horse  still  plunges  in  the 
flood  ;  and  birds  of  gayest  plumage  make  day  pleasant,  and 
night  doleful,  with  their  chattcrings.  Tlie  stately  antelope, 
the  heavy  rhinoceros,  the  graceful  giraffe,  and  the  solemn 
elephant,  still  browse  in  the  virgin  woods  ;  and  lions,  leo- 
l^ards,  and  hyenas  jirowl  in  the  canebrakes  and  jungles  of 
the  valleys. 

The  teeth  of  large  animals,  as  well  as  the  tusks  of  the  ele- 
phant, arc  valuable  in  trade  ;  palm  oil,  gums,  and  dye-woods 
are  abundant ;  and  the  grass  cloths  of  native  manufacture, 
with  furs  and  skins,  find  ready  sale.  With  such  resoiu'ces 
at  hand,  it  is  to  be  expected  that  the  Congoes  would  be  a 
trading  people,  and  such  they  have  been  and  are  ;  but  so 
profitable  has  been  the  slave-trade  that  it  has  monopolized 
their  capital  and  enterprise,  and  the  more  laudable  and  ele- 
vating branches  of  industry  have  been  neglected  in  conse- 
quence. But  a  change  has  taken  place  ;  the  slave-trade  has 
been  effectually  crippled,  and  measures  are  now  in  progress 


SOLTKEEN  GUINEA. 


265 


wliich  will  soon  destroy  it  entirely.  Atemporaiy  susi^ension 
of  labor  followed  the  suppression  of  the  favorite  traffic ; 
poverty  and  suffeiing  came  soon  after,  and  with  these  a  step 
backward  in  a  moral  degradation  that  seemed  already 
complete ;  for  even  "  in  the  lowest  deep  "  of  African  depra- 
vity there  is  a  "  lower  deep."  Reaction  is  in  progress ;  and 
the  Congoes,  driven  by  necessity  to  more  laborious  occupa- 
tions than  making  forays  for  the  purpose  of  stealing  their 
neighbors'  wives  and  children,  are  learning  that  other 
branches  of  trade  may  be  made  profitable.  Stations  for  legal 
traffic  are  opening  along  the  shores  of  southern  Guinea  ;  the 
quantity  of  exports  and  the  consumption  of  imports  are  in- 
creasing annually,  and  at  a  rate  almost  incredible  to  the 
particularly  uninformed ;  and  soon  the  slave-owners  of  this 
portion  of  Africa  will  find  it  more  profitable  to  work  their 
slaves  than  to  sell  them.  This  Ave  regard  as  the  grey  dawn 
of  civilization  in  Africa.  The  advocates  of  the  "  universal 
and  unqualified  abolition  of  slavery,"  should  mourn  over 
this ;  for  though  it  will  close  the  foreign  slave-trade,  and 
save  humanity  from  the  recoimted  horrors  of  the  "  middle 
passage,"  it  will  confirm  and  strengthen  the  domestic  slavery 
of  Africa. 

The  Congoes  are  counted  among  the  peoples  that  have 
relapsed  from  Christianity  into  barbarism,  and  the  infidel 
of  the  next  century  will  present  their  history  as  evidence 
of  the  unadaptc'dncss  of  Christianity  to  certain  classes  or 
conditions  of  the  human  race.    A  word  of  this. 

Roman  Catholicism  was  iml^ol•ted  into  Congo  by  the  first 
t  raders  and  settlers  from  Portugal,  and  imder  the  protec- 
tion of  that  crown.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, companies  of  Cai)uchins,  and  other  missionaries,  were 

12 


266        PEKSONAi  ADVENTTTKES  AND  0BSEKYATI0N3. 


sent  into  Congo.  They  were  received  with  favor ;  they 
built  churches,  established  monasteries,  made  converts  of 
and  baptized  princes ;  and  in  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  century 
after  their  arrival,  Congo  Avas  reported  as  having  embraced 
the  "  Catholic  foith."  During  the  two  centuries  follOAving, 
these  baptized  savages  were  obedient  to  the  dicta  and  dis- 
cipline of  the  church.  Then  followed  a  century  of  reaction  ; 
the  untamed  heathen  chafed  in  a  harness  that  had  become 
cumbersome  ;  the  reins  of  priestly  discipline  were  felt  to  be 
too  tight  for  the  unbroken  steed  ;  and  the  lash  of  spiritual 
drivers,  long  annoying,  became  intolerable.  Wars,  pro- 
moted by  the  slave-trade,  raged  among  the  tribes  of  Congo  ; 
communities,  long  severed,  were  driven  together  for  mutual 
protection ;  they  assumed  their  original  forms  of  govern- 
ment, and  with  them  the  heathenism  of  their  fathers,  which 
had  been  suffered  to  grow  under  the  shadow  of  the  church, 
as  a  means  of  conciliatmg  heathenish  tastes.  The  priests 
saw  their  followers,  one  after  another  in  quick  succession 
returning  to  their  original  superstitions  and  neglecting  the 
ingrafted  rites,  because  not  suited  to  their  tastes  and  wants. 
Disheartened  and  despised,  they  retired  from  the  faithless 
field,  and  in  this,  the  year  of  grace  1859,  there  are  no 
traces  of  Catholicism  to  be  found  among  them,  except  here 
and  there  a  decayed  temijle,  the  picture  of  a  saint,  or  a 
crucifix,  and  to  these  the  present  generation  attach  a  hea- 
thenish significance. 

That  Roman  Catholicism,  as  a  religious  system,  has  not 
the  power  to  raise  a  barbarous  peojile  to  a  high  degree  of 
civilization  and  practical  Christianity,  w  ill  not  be  wondered 
at  by  Protestants;  but  that  in  Congo,  the  relapse  from 
Catholicism  to  heathenism  should  have  been  so  sudden  and 


SOUTHERN  GT7INEA. 


26T 


complete,  is  matter  of  wonder  to  Protestants  and  Catholics 
alike.  Various  causes  have  been  assigned  for  this  by  the 
friends  of  Romanism :  the  character  of  the  people ;  the  hos- 
tility of  the  climate  ;  want  of  adequate  patronage  from  the 
church,  and  civil  powers  abroad,  etc.  We  venture  to  offer 
to  the  reader  a  few  reasons,  which,  to  our  mind,  satisfacto- 
rily explain  the  matter.  The  people  were  not  taught.  The 
religion  presented  addressed  the  senses  only  ;  the  intellect 
and  the  moral  sense  were  neglected — so  much  so,  that,  after 
two  hundred  years  of  contact  with  the  system,  the  people 
were  advanced  but  little  morally,  not  at  all  intellectually. 
The  observation  of  feasts  and  fasts,  of  saint's  days  and 
masses,  penance  and  sacraments,  the  counting  of  rosaries 
and  the  reciting  of  prayers  in  Latin,  possess  in  themselves 
no  means  of  enlightenment,  no  power  to  eradicate  the 
.evil  passions  of  the  heart,  or  to  guide  aright  affections 
prone  to  sin.  The  varied  tinsel,  and  gorgeous  symbols  ot 
Romanism,  attracted  the  curiosity  and  amused,  as  gaily 
colored  toys  attract  and  interest  children  ;  but  never  having 
been  led  into  the  philosophical  or  spiritual  significance  of 
these  things,  the  hold  which  the  spiritless  form  had  on 
the  affections  of  the  people  was  weak  indeed ;  and  hence, 
when  the  new  religion  came  in  contact  with  temporal 
interests,  it  was  easily  abandoned. 

The  conversion  of  the  masses  was  merely  nominal.  The 
baptism  of  a  prince  or  leader  was  the  signal  for  the  baptism 
of  his  slaves  and  adherents,  and  these,  so  long  as  they 
pleased  their  masters,  cared  little  for  the  significance  or 
obligation  of  tlic  ordinances  received.  While  the  kings 
j)rofessed  Romanism,  the  people  also  professed  it ;  indeed, 
the  civil  rulers  required  that  the  people  should  submit  to 


263        PEKSOXAL  AUVEN'TUKES  AlO)  OBSEEVATIONS. 


all  rites  enjoined  by  the  priests,  and,  -when  the  kings  re- 
turned to  heathenism,  the  i:)eople  readily  returned  with 
them. 

Heathenism  had  not  been  destroyed.  The  Romanism 
taught  ^^■as  a  barbarized  Christianity.  The  Capuchin  friars, 
and  after  them  the  Jesuits,  pursued  the  erroneous  policy 
of  at*^racting  the  savages  by  compromising  with  the  native 
religion  and  christening  its  rites.  The  people  might  still 
believe  in  witches,  and,  as  a  preventive  of  their  evil  in- 
fluences, chaiTQs  might  be  woni,  but  a  cross  or  a  crown 
must  be  substituted  for  the  grisgris.  Wooden  figures 
might  still  be  regarded  with  reverence,  but  the  uncouth 
native  fetish  must  give  place  to  the  Virgin  and  the  bam- 
bino. Taboo  days  must  be  called  fast  days;  and  to  ab- 
stain from  flesh  and  butter  on  Fridays,  was  no  hardship 
to  people  who  but  seldom  tasted  the  one,  and  had  never 
seen  the  other.  Xative  conjurers  were  allowed  to  prac- 
tise their  tricks,  because  the  clergy  expected  soon  to  play 
at  the  same  game  under  pretence  of  working  miracles  ;  and 
these  men,  by  way  of  maintaining  their  own  trade,  kept 
alive  the  su2)erstitions  and  traditions  of  fetishism.  So  far, 
to  become  Christians  was  an  easy  matter ;  and  so  far  only 
were  the  masses  ever  Christianized.  Of  the  essential  doc- 
trines of  the  Xew  Testament,  the  atonement  by  Christ,  and 
justification  by  fliith,  they  knew  no  more  than  if  these  truths 
had  never  dawned  on  man's  spiritual  night.  What  wonder, 
then,  that  the  forms  of  Romanism,  when  they  lost  the  charm 
of  novelty,  and  were  felt  to  be  cumbersome,  should  have 
been  easily  abandoned  for  the  fonns  of  a  heathenism  bet- 
ter adapted  to  savage  tastes  and  ideas  ?  And  what  wonder 
that,  when  the  priests  lost  the  assistance  of  a  foreign  crown, 


SOCTHEKN  GUINEA. 


269 


with  -which  they  commenced  their  Tv  oik,  and  the  influence 
of  native  princes,  through  whom  they  had  long  exercised 
tyrannical  rule,  the  transition  to  the  native  religion  should 
have  been  as  rapid  as  it  was  easy  ?  Considermg  that 
through  all  their  history  these  people  have  been  shockmgly 
ignorant,  morally  base,  and  socially  and  domestically  brutal, 
and  that  they  have  ever  pursued  practices  and  entertained 
ideas  at  variance  M  ith  intellectual  development,  and  moral 
and  social  advancement,  how  unjust  it  is  to  say  that  they 
were  once  Christians!  Equally  unjust  is  it  to  say,  that 
the  failure  of  Romanism  in  Congo  and  Loango  is  to  be 
attributed  to  the  want  of  capacity,  or  to  any  unimprovable 
quality  in  the  negro,  or  to  the  unadaptedness  of  Christianity 
to  his  mental  and  external  conditions.  Nothing  but  a  mon- 
grel and  spurious  Christianity  has  ever  been  offered  to  the 
Congo,  and  that  w  ithout  preparing  him  for  its  reception : 
and  we  might  add,  on  authority  not  to  be  despised,  that  the 
offer  was  made  by  men  whose  conduct  was  not  always,  or 
even  generally,  such  as  to  secure  confidence.  The  honest 
skei)tic  will,  therefore,  admit  that  the  experiment  of  Christ- 
ianizing the  Congoe.s  is  yet  to  be  made.  We  have  no  fears 
of  the  result,  when  such  trials  shall  be  fairly  made,  and  we 
arc  anxious  to  see  the  missionaries  of  evangelical  and  apos- 
tolical truth  in  this  inviting  field. 

But  are  toe  not  admitting  too  much  when  we  say  that 
the  experiment  is  yet  to  be  made  ?  In  the  southern  States, 
M'c  can  find  hundreds  of  the  descendants  of  Lower  Guinea- 
men  who  arc  intelligent  and  reliable  servants,  and  sincere 
Christians  ;  and,  in  Sierra  Leone,  we  have  seen  native  Con- 
goes  who  are  educated  and  polished  men,  and  lively  mem- 
bers of  the  church. 


270       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  African,  we  think,  will  develop  aesthetic  tastes ;  the 
imagination  predominates  ;  ideality  will  be  his  mental  cha- 
racteristic. The  form  of  religion,  therefore,  that  is  to  exer- 
cise power  over  his  life,  and  to  take  firm  hold  of  his  affec- 
tions, must  not  be  devoid  of  ritual  and  symbolism  ;  an  asce- 
ticised  religion  will  not  suit  him ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  it 
must  i^ossess  the  vital  element.  It  must  be  religion  in  earn- 
est, beautiful  in  its  external  modes,  and  full  of  vigorous,  pul- 
sating life ;  a  religion  that  can  be  felt  as  well  as  seen — iu 
short,  the  religion  of  Jesus  and  of  Paul.  Give  them  this — 
give  the  Congo,  the  Ashantee,  the  Maudingo,  that  form 
of  religion  which  insists  on  holy  living  and  spiritual  com- 
munion with  God ;  possess  them  once  with  the  conscious 
hoj^es  of  a  better  life,  let  them  once  see  the  beauty  of  the 
truth  as  it  shines  in  the  face  of  Jesus,  and  hear  the  harmony 
of  a  holier  world  as  it  sounds  through  the  Gospel  of  the 
grace  of  God,  and  feel  the  throbbings  of  the  life  eternal  in 
the  soul,  and  we  have  no  fears  of  relapses  into  barbarism  ; 
no  doubts  of  the  triumph  of  truth  in  Africa  through  the 
cross  of  Christ. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


ANGOLA. 

A  Dull  Morning — Tropical  Philosophizing — Bay  of  Loando — Scenery — 
Harbors  and  Commerce — A  Pleasant  Evening  —A  Glorious  Sunset — 
Thoughts  of  Home — Going  Ashore — Fishing  and  Water  Boats — The 
Pier — The  Bishop's  Chair — Suggestions  by  the  Chair — St.  Paul — Native 
Market — The  Biter  Bitten — Sir  George  Jackson — Population — Loando 
— Religion  Exports  and  Imports. 

A  HAZY  morning  was  that  Avliich  dawned  on  us  on  the  16th 
of  January,  1856.  Xot  the  haze  of  rain  and  winter,  but 
that,  which,  in  the  tropics,  precedes  a  day  of  terrible  heat. 
It  was  a  sluggish  morning ;  the  clouds,  scarcely  visible, 
seemed  fixed  in  the  heavens ;  the  atmosphere  was  motion- 
less ;  there  was  a  heavy  swell  in  the  sea,  but  the  surface 
was  glassy  and  dead,  as  the  foce  of  the  stagnant  pool.  Our 
ship  rolled  on  the  crestless  wave,  like  a  helpless  wreck,  and 
the  sails  drooped  heavily  from  the  yards ;  the  men  moved 
silently  about  the  decks,  and  tai'dily,  as  if  clothed  in  lead  ; 
and  orders  were  passed  quietly  and  executed  slowly.  The 
wardroom  officers  still  sat  around  the  breakfast-table, 
moodily,  solemnly,  as  if  in  the  presence  of  the  dead  ; 
breathing  was  laborious  and  imsatisfying,  and  conversation 
lagged  in  long-drawn  monosyllables.  Nature  seemed  to  bo 
in  deep  sleep,  and  the  sympathetic  si)ell  si^rcad  over  sea 
and  ship,  iliind  and  matter.  Time  was  in  motion.  "  Two 
bells"  (9  o'clock),  cried  the  orderly,  as  if  waking  from  a 
dream ;  "  two  bells,"  muttered  the  messenger  boy,  as  if 

2T1 


272       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


talking  in  sleep  ;  and  two  strokes  of  the  bell  rolled  slowly 
through  the  heavy  atmosphere.  The  master's  mate  came 
into  the  ward-room  with  muffled  tread,  and  wrote  in  the 
log,  "  Thermom.  96°— wet  bulb  84°.'' 

We  tried  to  cool  ourselves  with  the  remembrance  that 
twelve  months  before,  we  walked  round  our  good  ship  as 
she  lay  fast  bound  in  the  thick  ice  of  the  Delaware.  We 
pictured  to  ourselves  the  snow-covered  fields  at  home,  and 
friends  going  out  into  the  cool  blue  air,  muffled,  booted  and 
gloved.  But  it  was  no  use.  Imagination  may  make 
drunken  men  sober,  and  sick  men  well,  and  poor  men 
happy,  and  wise  men  fools,  but  it  can't  make  sinners  cool — 
nor  saints  either  as  to  that — when  the  mercury  is  at  96°  in 
the  shade,  and  there  is  no  wind. 

"  Pain  and  pleasure  are  but  ideas."  Thank  you,  Dr. 
Berkeley !  Fire  in  the  blood,  and  suffocation  in  the  lungs 
are  mere  "  ideas in  i3lain  prose,  all  imagination  I  sup- 
pose ;  but,  somehow,  we  can't  help  believing  that  there  is  a 
perception  of  heather  se,  when  perspiration  pours  from  every 
pore,  and  men  gasp  for  oxygen  like  down-chased  turkeys. 
"  Nihil  est  in  intellectu  quod  non  prius  fuit  in  sensu," 
says  Leibnitz.  That  sounds  more  to  our  liking.  Perceirtion 
comes  with,  but  after,  sensation  ;  but  sensation  is  not  with- 
out an  object.  Yes,  our  ideas  are  dependent  on  our  senses, 
and  our  senses  on  things.  "  Qualities  of  things,"  say  you : 
the  combined  qualities  are  the  thing  itself  "  Matter  ^per  se ' 
is  a  nonentity,"  says  Ferrier.  "All  idea" — nonsense  !  Polly 
in  the  steerage  ^cho  has  no  ideas,  nor  intellect  to  perceive, 
nor  imagination  to  create,  showed  that  she  had  knowledge 
of  heat — she  drooped  her  wings,  and  ruffled  lier  feathers,  and 
solemnly  refused  to  say  anything  but  "  poor  Polly.''  The 


ANGOLA. 


273 


little  pigs,  idealess  little  pigs,  in  the  manger,  suspended 
grunting ;  and  the  monkeys,  unreasonable  monkeys,  in  their 
boxes,  confined  their  gymnastics  to  fanning  themselves  with 
their  taUs,  Try  it  when  you  please,  my  Berkeleyan  friend, 
and  you  will  find  that  with  ninety-six  degrees  of  heat  and  no 
breeze,  you  have  something  else  than  an  "  idea  "  that  you 
are  hot.  We  submit  this  digression,  dear  reader,  as  a  speci- 
men of  the  way  we  do  philosophy  and  logic  in  the  tropics, 
when  the  thcnnometer  is  at  96°  in  the  shade,  and  no  breeze. 

"  Oh  for  a  breeze,  a  sqiiall,  anything,  anything,  for  this 
terrible  stillness — this  living  death  !"  said  one.  Motion  of 
some  sort !  Motion  is  health,  life,  happiness,  everything  ! 
Heaven  is  represented  as  a  rest,  but  with  constant  employ- 
ment. "  Xo  night  there,"  because  no  need  of  sleep — 
constant  strength,  constant  activity,  constant  life ! 

Motion  came.  The  clouds  began  to  move ;  the  haze 
cleared  away ;  a  pleasant  breeze  filled  our  sails,  and  at  1 0 
A.M.,  we  saw  the  high  land  of  Loando  looming  above  the 
eastern  horizon.  The  breeze  freshened ;  the  high  clLfis 
rose  out  of  the  sea  ;  we  entered  the  broad  and  beautiful  bay 
of  Loando;  and,  an  hour  before  sunset,  cast  anchor  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  town  of  St.  Paul. 

There  was  much  in  the  scenery,  that  evening,  to  tempt 
us  to  forget  that  we  were  in  Africa.  The  high  and  strati- 
fied clifis  of  the  older  formations  lining  the  beach  on  our 
left ;  before  us,  the  white  houses,  castellated  walls,  spires 
and  domes  of  a  large  and  European-looking  town ;  beyond, 
and  on  a  high  protecting  mass  of  primitive  rock,  an  exten- 
sive and  well-built  fortress,  above  which  floated  the  ensign 
of  Portugal.  On  our  right,  a  low  and  pretty  island, 
extending  five  or  six  miles  into  the  sea,  forming  with  the 

12* 


274        PEESONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

shore-line  an  acute  angle,  and  having  its  outer  extremity 
bent  toward  the  land,  thus  affording  to  the  bay  protection 
from  the  prevailing  winds  and  heavy  seas  of  the  Atlantic ; 
and  around  us  were  vessels  bearing  the  colors  of  various 
nations,  among  which  were  pi-ominent  the  stars  and  stripes. 

Some  one  has  said,  that  "  nature  has  given  good  harbors 
to  those  countries  which  she  designs  to  be  largely  com- 
mercial." If  natural  harbors  are  the  only  indicators  of 
what  a  country  may  be  in  commerce,  it  follows  that 
western  Africa  is,  and  will  ever  continue  to  be,  insig- 
nificant in  this  regard  ;  for  her  good  harbors  are  very  few, 
and  very  far  between.*    Of  the  many  places  which  we  have 

*  Referring  to  this  passage,  a  worthy  and  scientific  officer  of  the  navy, 
who  has  spent  two  years  on  the  African  station,  says  :  "  Nature  has  sup- 
plied the  want  of  harbors  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  by  placing  the 
entire  line  of  anchorage  under  the  lee  of  a  coast,  over  which  all  the 
storms  rise,  and  from  which  they  all  blow  to  seaward.  She  has,  there- 
fore, not  constituted  the  West  Coast  an  exception  to  the  real  rule  that 
'  she  has  given  a  sheltered  anchorage  along  the  coast  of  a  country  which 
she  designs  to  be  largely  commercial.'  " 

To  this  we  reply :  that  will  hardly  be  considered  an  anchorage  favor- 
able to  a  large  commerce,  in  which  vessels  roU  heavily  at  their  anchors  ; 
and  where,  owing  to  the  surf,  landing  in  the  boats  of  merchantmen  is 
seldom  attempted,  and  the  cargoes  of  traders  are  carried  off  in  native 
canoes.  Such  is  the  anchorage  opposite  most  of  the  trading  towns  on 
that  part  of  the  West  Coast  which  lies  to  the  north  of  the  equator. 
Canoe  hire  is  cheap;  but  the  process  of  loading  by  this  means  is 
tedious,  and  in  commercial  matters,  as  in  most  others,  time  is  money. 
Besides,  the  loss  by  damage  in  this  mode  of  shipping  is  very  great,  for 
even  the  natives  cannot  always  master  the  surf.  The  want  of  convenient 
and  secure  anchorage  must  long  operate  as  an  offset,  or  compensation, 
for  the  cheapness  of  labor  in  Africa,  and  the  abundance  ia  which  the 
groat  staples  of  commerce  may  there  be  produced.  One  of  the  most 
experienced  of  the  English  traders  on  the  coast,  Mr.  Oldfield,  of  Sierra 
Leone,  remarlied  tiiat  "  there  are  not  half  a  dozen  secure  harbors  on  tho 
West  Coast,  north  of  tlic  equator :  and  so  shifting  arc  the  bars  of  the 
large  rivers,  that  to  deepen  them  is  impossible." 


ANGOLA. 


275 


visited,  and  in  these  letters  described,  lying  on  the  coast, 
this  is  the  only  safe  harbor  that  we  have  anchored  in  since 
we  left  the  Gambia,  If  with  a  stretch  of  indifference,  we 
admit  this  rule  to  be  correct  as  a  general  thing,  we  must, 
however,  admit  also  that  western  Africa  will  be,  hideed 
already  is,  one  of  the  exceptions.  The  degree  in  which  a 
coimtry  is  likely  (considei'ing  its  resources  and  people)  to 
produce  articles  of  general  use,  above  the  demand  of  home 
consumption,  is,  we  think,  a  safer  rule,  by  which  to 
determine  the  future  commercial  character  of  any  new  or 
unciviHzed  country. 

Never  shall  we  forget  the  pleasant  emotions  and  sensa- 
tions of  physical  comfort,  which  we  experienced  on  coming 
to  an  "  even  keel "  in  the  smooth  bay  of  Loando,  after  so 
many  days  of  wearisome  tossing  and  brain-sickening 
cradling  on  the  tropical  Atlantic.  The  evening  was  mild 
and  balmy ;  the  light  breeze,  wliich  fanned  us  so  gently 
that  it  seemed  trying  to  bestow  its  freshness  upon  us  with- 
out our  cognizance,  produced  not  a  ripi>le  on  the  water ; 
and  our  proud  and  beautiful  ship,  held  by  the  mere  weight 
of  her  cables  motionless  as  the  hills  on  the  shore,  lay  mir- 
rored in  the  depths  below,  like  a  beautiful  creation  of  art 
transferred  to  the  canvass  by  a  touch  of  faultless  magic. 
It  requires  but  a  short  stretch  of  imagination  to  endow,  as 
do  the  Chinese,  a  well-built  vessel  Avith  tlie  attributes  of 
life  and  intelligence ;  and  I  could  fancy,  as  our  trim  craft 
floated  on  her  own  image  that  evening,  that,  like  a  beauti- 
ful, but  vain  woman  looking  at  licrself  in  a  glass,  she  was 
conscious  of  hor  beauty,  and,  intoxicated  with  the  vision  of 
loveliness,  rested  spell-bound  and  enamored  of  her  own 
reflection.   The  atmosphere  was  clear  ;  sheets  and  wreaths 


276        PEKSONAL  ADVENTtJKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

of  fleecy  clouds  rested  overhead,  and  to  tlie  north  and  west, 
hanks  and  mountains  of  cloud  rose  one  ahove  the  other, 
like  masses  of  snow  floating  in  the  sky.  As  the  sun 
aj^proached  the  horizon,  his  dimensions  seemed  to  increase 
tenfold  with  every  degree  of  descent ;  his  color  passed,  by 
softest  blending,  fi-om  a  rich  bright  yellow,  through  various 
tints  of  orange  and  scarlet,  to  the  deepest  red ;  and  long 
after  his  departure,  the  clouds,  in  silver  and  gold,  and 
soft  vermilion,  and  scarlet,  and  purple,  reflected  the  sunset 
glories  on  the  water  beneath,  until  the  ocean  glowed  like  a 
sea  of  fire.  Xever  have  I  beheld  so  grand  a  sunset ;  never 
beheld  so  entrancing  a  vision  of  beauty;  never  before 
warmed  with  such  grand  conceptions  of  the  glory  that  shall 
be  revealed,  when  He  who  is  the  author  of  the  beautiful,  as 
well  as  the  good  and  the  true,  shall  welcome  us  to  the 
brightness  of  his  own  abode.  But  the  clouds,  true  to  them- 
selves, for  they  are  the  emblems  of  change,  faded  away, 
and  the  silent  sea  changed  its  borrowed  glory  for  an 
abysmal  darkness. 

"Ah,  messmate!  air-castle  building,  eh?"  said  the  oflicer 
of  the  deck,  approaching  the  arm-chest  on  which  I  sat. 
"  How  would  you  like  to  be  going  home  to  Georgia  to- 
night, astride  of  one  of  those  fine  clouds  ?" 

"Ah,  my  friend,  you  have  struck  the  key-note  in  this 
fleshly  heart!  I've  just  been  thinking  of  a  brighter  and  a 
better  world  than  this;  but,  now  that  you've  called  me 
back,  I  believe  that,  supposing  it  to  be  the  same  to  all 
])arties  concerned,  I'd  rather  go  to  sec  my  wife  to-night 
than  to  go  to  Paradise." 

"  A  strange  taste,  and  smacking  a  little  of  profimity,  for 
a  man  of  your  cloth,  eh  ?" 


ANGOLA. 


277 


"  May  be  so — de  gustihiis  non  disputandum — but  I  con- 
fess that,  to  suit  my  present  aspirations  and  ideas  of  happi- 
ness, there  is  a  heaven  in  a  little  ■white  cottage  on  an  old 
chestnut  ridge  in  Georgia  containing  angels  of  flesh  and 
blood,  which  would  be  quite  sufficient." 

How  Ave  slept  that  night,  and  of  what  and  whom  we 
dreamed,  the  African  cruiser  may  guess. 

Kext  morning  several  of  us  went  ashore  in  the  first  boat, 
to  spend  the  day  in  sight-seeing  and  hunting  curiosities. 
We  passed  among  fishing  canoes,  the  occupants  of  which 
seemed  to  be  enjoying  excellent  sport  with  the  red  snappers 
and  other  large  fish ;  and  by  water  boats  on  theii'  way  to 
the  river  Bengo,  some  nine  miles  to  the  north,  the  only 
body  of  fresh  water  sufficient  to  supply  the  shipping,  any 
where  near  St.  Paul.  These  water  canoes  are  the  only 
African  boats  that  wc  have  seen  pi'opelled  by  oars.  They 
generally  carry  a  square  sail,  made  of  grass  cloth  sometimes 
fantastically  colored,  and  are  said  to  be  managed  in  a  sea 
way  with  much  dexterity  by  the  native  sailors.  The  crews 
are  generally  composed  of  slaves,  in  charge  of  the  owner  or 
a  driver,  who  is  captain  of  the  boat.  Judging  from  the 
labors  which  they  perform,  as  well  as  their  appearance, 
they  are  not  much  better  ofi'than  the  slaves  of  galleys. 

We  landed  at  a  substantial  stone  pier,  on  one  side  of 
which,  and  near  the  landing  steps,  stood  a  large  stone  chair. 
Accosting  a  white  gentleman  standing  near,  whom  we  took 
to  lie  an  Englishman,  and  rightly,  as  to  its  use  or  meaning, 
he  answered  kindly,  and  correctly,  as  we  afterward  learned, 
that  in  the  palmy  days  of  the  slave-trade  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic Bishop  of  Loando  used  to  come  to  the  })ier  to  bless  the 
cargoes  of  the  slavers,  and  on  such  occasions  used  this  chair. 


278       PEESONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Pretty  good  idea,  Avasn't  it?  So  very  appropriate  too, 
■while  men  were  struggling  and  fighting  in  the  vain  attempt 
to  get  away  or  to  avoid  going  aboard,  and  women  were 
screaming,  and  sailors  were  cursing,  to  bless  the  troubled 
mass  collectively  in  the  name  of  Christianity  and  the  Holy 
Catholic  Church.  They  needed  a  blessing,  the  rascals !  And 
how  dare  they  make  their  exodus,  the  savages,  without  the 
blessing  of  an  Apostolic  Bishop.  The  bishop  was  right  in 
blessing  them,  and  since  they  hadn't  decency  enough  to 
ask  his  blessing,  he  was  right  in  cramming  it  down  their 
throats !  Long  live  the  stone  chair — that  serviceable,  flex- 
ible stone  chair  !  To-day  it  is  laden  with  anathemas  for  the 
slaver;  to-morrow,  should  the  trade  become  popular,  it 
would  bless  him — for  a  consideration !  The  chair  suggests 
to  those  Yankee  captains  and  southern  capitalists  Avho  pro- 
pose reoiDening  the  slave-trade,  that  each  of  their  vessels 
shall  be  furnished  with  a  chaplain.  Why  not  ?  They  are 
entering  on  a  mission  of  mercy;  to  civilize  the  "niggers" 
is  their  prime  object;  to  make  them  assist  in  producing 
corn,  and  cotton,  and  sugar,  is  only  an  afterthought,  sug- 
gested by  a  thoughtful  philanthropist  as  a  means  of  supply- 
ing wholesome  exercise.  Yes ;  why  not  bless  them ;  and 
have  chaplains  to  do  it  often  ?  To  go  down  to  the  berth- 
decks,  where  the  scoundrels  are  stowed  away,  like  sides  of 
bacon  in  a  warehouse,  and  while  Jack  dashes  them  with 
water  for  their  morning  ablution,  and  Bill  stufls  rice  into 
their  mouths  for  their  breakfast  (sometimes  the  sinners,  if 
left  alone,  try  to  starve  themselves),  and  Tom  drags  out 
and  throws  overboard  those  who  have  been  mean  enough 
to  die  during  the  night,  to  sing  them  a  hymn — say  that 
commencing,  "Blest  is  the  tie  that  binds  our  hearts  in 


ANGOLA. 


279 


Christian  love,"  etc.,  and  bless  them  in  the  name  of  the 
stars  and  stri2:)es.    That  Avould  be  so  nice — so  religioiis ! 

But  the  chair  is  speaking  ironically,  sarcastically,  and  no 
wonder :  his  Peter's  pence  are  gone  and  his  stony  heart  is 
soured.  We  don't  think  that  there  will  be  any  need  of 
slaver  chaplains,  or  slaver  captains  either,  growing  out  of 
the  demands  of  the  South.  The  South  has  already  as  many 
slave  Africans  as  her  interests  require,  and  more  free  ones 
than  she  knows  what  to  do  with.  Now  and  then  a  fanatical 
company  will  invest  twenty  or  twenty-five  thousand  dollars 
in  a  "Wanderer,"  and  attempt  to  run  a  cargo;  but  when 
they  find  out  that,  with  good  luck,  not  more  than  one  in 
nine  of  such  Wanderers  will  ever  return,  and  that  even  that 
one  is  liable  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  home  cruisers  or 
the  United  States  marshal  before  she  disgorges  her  load  of 
ignorance  and  depravity,  they  will  find  more  profitable  in- 
vestments. Then,  my  mitred  friend,  the  South  is  patriotic, 
respects  her  good  name  among  the  nations  and  her  com- 
pacts with  them,  in  which  she  is  signed,  sealed  and  delivered 
against  the  foreign  slave-trade.  She  is  humane,  and  would 
not  expose  even  savages  to  the  horrors  of  the  middle  pas- 
sage. She  is  Christian,  and  would  not  corrupt  her  people 
by  introducing  savage  hordes  among  them ;  nor  debase  her 
religion  in  the  eyes  of  the  hcatlien  abroad  by  encouraging 
them  in  a  practice  Avhich  even  they  believe  to  be  cruel. 
And  then  the  increased  American,  and  English,  and  French 

forces  on  the  coast,  colonial  and  mission  stations,  and  . 

Here  my  confab  M'ith  the  stone  chair  was  brought  to  a  sud- 
den close  by  an  impatient  "Come  on"  from  my  companion, 
and  promising,  should  it  ever  become  necessary,  to  let  my 
brethren  in  the  South  into  the  details  and  iniquities  of  this 


280        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


traffic,  I  doffed  my  cap  to  liis  grace,  and  bade  him  good 
morning. 

We  soon  found  our  way  to  the  American  consulate,  "whero 
letters  from  home  were  awaiting  us,  and  loads  of  newspapers 
just  brought  in  by  an  American  brig  from  Salem.  In  read- 
ing letters  and  chatting  over  the  news,  the  day  passed  away 
quickly  and  pleasantly.  The  papers  were  full  of  war  and 
Mr.  Crampton,  and  we  found,  on  going  aboard,  that  our 
stay  in  Loando  was  to  be  short,  as  the  commodore  "wished 
to  be  at  the  headquarters  of  the  station,  Porto  Prayo,  St. 
Jago,  where  he  would  be  in  communication  with  the  de- 
j)artment. 

Next  morning  we  hastened  to  the  shore,  to  spend  the 
day  in  making  visits  and  seeing  "the  sights."  From  the 
pier  we  proceeded  through  an  alley,  lined  by  high  walls  and 
houses  of  stone  and  Dutch  tiles,  in  the  Moorish  style,  until 
we  reached  the  Broadway  of  the  city,  a  wide  and  paved 
street,  on  which  are  the  stores,  the  cathedral,  a  barrack, 
and  some  of  the  principal  private  buildings  of  the  place. 
On  this  street  is  the  native  market,  the  noisiest  place  im- 
aginable ;  a  Babel,  with  the  squealing  of  pigs,  squalling  of 
chickens  and  children,  cackling  of  geese,  and  chattering  of 
monkeys  thrown  in.  There  were  at  least  five  hundred 
women  there,  having  goods  for  sale,  and  all  talking  at  once, 
and  seemingly  at  the  highest  pitch.  The  market-place, 
wliich  is  something  like  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  is 
composed  of  rows  of  bamboo  stalls,  six  or  eight  feet  square, 
and  as  many  higli ;  and  in  these  small  establishments  many 
of  the  mercliants  live  and  bring  up  families.  Cooking,  eat- 
ing, sleeping,  bartering,  whipping  babies,  kicking  the  dogs 
and  children  that  were  crawling  about  under  the  stands 


ANGOLA. 


281 


and  getting  into  rice  pots,  stringing  beads  for  necklaces, 
mending  stalls,  washing  clothes — light  work  tliis — all  were 
carried  on  at  the  same  time,  and  ia  a  very  matter-of-course 
way ;  even  young  ladies  made  their  toilets  as  if  unconscious 
of  vulgar  gaze  and  criticism.  Fruits,  nuts,  A^egctables,  dry 
goods,  trinkets,  hardware ;  productions  of  native  handiwork 
and  European  manufactories,  cooked  victuals  and  raw  vic- 
tuals, shared  the  same  tent  and  decorated  the  same  stands. 
The  staple  articles  of  African  markets,  glass  beads,  coarse 
cutlery,  and  gay  cottons,  were  largely  represented  ;  but  we 
noticed,  besides,  walking-sticks  made  from  rhinoceros  horns, 
a  few  tolerably  dressed  skins  of  gazelles,  leopards  and  lions, 
grey  parrots,  baboons,  monkeys  of  several  varieties,  neatly 
woven  mats  (commonly  called  grass  mats  of  Loando,  the 
material,  however,  is  the  inner  bark  of  a  tree),  and  baskets 
of  grass,  palm  leaf,  or  bark,  richly  colored.  I  there  saw  for 
the  first  time  the  cachou  apple— ^/jcms  elastica.  In  shape 
and  color  it  resembles  a  large  yellow  pepper.  The  pulp  is 
a  tough  and  spongy  mass,  containing  a  slightly  astringent 
acid-sweet  juice,  which  is  cooling  and  very  delicious.  The 
bean-shaped  seed  which  is  attached  to  the  extremity  con- 
tains a  highly  pungent  oil,  as  I  discovered  by  biting  it ;  a 
bite  from  which  my  mouth  did  not  recover  for  several 
weeks.  As  an  Irishman  said  of  a  green  persimmon  which 
lie  -was  persuaded  to  submit  to  his  molars,  I  might  have 
said  of  it :  "  Faith,  and  it  makes  a  man  whistle  when  he 
ought  to  be  saying  howly  Pathriok  !" 

Mid-day  in  mid-sunmier  in  the  tropics  is  not  expected  to 
be  very  cool,  nor  was  it  on  the  iTth  of  January,  185G  ;  we 
therefore  gladly  accepted  the  invitation  of  our  ^-onsular 
agent  to  spend  the  hours  of  heat  at  the  consulate,  dine,  and 


282        PERSONAL  ADVENTTJEES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 


continue  our  walk  in  the  evening.  Here  we  received  a 
visit  from  Sir  George  Jackson,  British  commissioner  for 
Loando,  at  whose  delightful  home  wc  afterward  spent  a  few 
pleasant  hours,  and  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  much 
valuable  information  relating  to  this  district.  We  dined 
sumptuously ;  but  I  must  enter  my  protest  against  the  way 
of  making  soup  in  the  tropics,  a  habit  into  which  Americans 
and  Englishmen  readily  fall.  That  is,  making  it  so  hot  with 
pepper  that  the  uninitiated  have  to  let  it  alone,  or  to  drink 
it,  like  a  toast  "  to  the  departed,"  in  silence  and  tears. 
Tears  and  solemn  toasts  may  do  very  Avell  in  the  proper 
places,  but  to  be  compelled,  like  a  crocodile,  to  cry  over 
one's  dinner  is  intolerable. 

In  the  evening  we  visited  two  of  the  forts,  the  ruins  of  a 
Jesuit  college  and  chapel,  built  tAvo  himdred  years  ago,  and 
that  part  of  the  town  which  stands  on  the  hill  overlooking 
the  business  sti'eets  and  the  bay. 

St.  Paul  de  Loando  is  the  capital  of  Angola.  It  is  the 
largest  and  most  important  commercial  town  on  the  West 
Coast;  situate  in  lat.  8°  46'  12"  south,  and  long.  13°  9' 
18"  east.  It  v/as  built  by  the  Portuguese  in  1518,  and,  ex- 
cepting the  two  years  in  which  it  was  held  by  the  Dutch, 
has  been  in  their  possession  ever  since.  While  the  slave- 
trade  was  considered  legal,  it  was  the  principal  slave  mart 
of  the  Southern  Coast;  and  to  it  political  offenders  have 
been,  and  continue  to  be,  sent  for  exile  from  the  mother 
country.  The  pojJulation  is  estimated  at  ten  thousand,  fif- 
teen hundred  of  whom  are  Portuguese  and  other  whites. 
Most  of  the  black  population  are  slaves.  The  town  is  Avell 
built  and  well  defended.  Many  of  the  residences  of  foreign- 
ers and  civilized  blacks  display  taste  and  wealth.    It  con- 


ANGOLA. 


283 


tains  several  churches  and  a  few  schools,  and  here  reside 
the  governor  and  the  bishop,  and  the  more  important  offi- 
cers of  state,  with  the  higher  clergy. 

Loando,  the  district  immediately  aroimd  St.  Paul,  extends 
along  the  coast  sixty  miles,  and  interiorwise  very  much 
more.  It  contains,  exclusive  of  the  town,  a  population  of 
about  ten  thousand.  The  number  of  slaves  in  this  district, 
including  the  town,  is  fifteen  thousand.  Loando  is  go- 
verned by  the  governor  and  his  council,  and  is  strictly  a 
colony  of  Portugal. 

The  country  of  Angola,  of  which  Loando  is  a  district,  ex- 
tends from  the  southern  border  of  Congo  to  the  northern 
border  of  Bcngucla,  and  intcriorwards  five  hundred  miles. 
This,  with  all  of  Benguela,  is  claimed  by  the  crown  of 
Portugal ;  but  England  has  disputed  and  will  not  allow  that 
.claim.  The  surface  of  Angola  is  varied,  well  watered  and 
fertile.  Its  mountains  contain  iron,  copper,  and  other 
metals ;  malachite,  specimens  of  which  we  have  seen,  and 
other  minerals  of  value.  Its  climate  is  better  than  that  of 
any  other  portion  of  the  West  Coast,  as  evidenced  by  the 
fact  that  Avhite  men  can  live  here  much  longer ;  it  has  good 
harbors,  and  for  many  reasons  we  think  it  to  be  regretted 
that  the  American  colony  for  free  blacks  was  not  established 
here.  Had  our  government  taken  tlie  matter  in  hand,  ter- 
ritory for  that  purpose  could  have  been  obtained  without 
difficulty. 

Jjenguela  is  less  fertile  than  Angola  ;  its  southern  portion 
is  a  desert,  but  the  greater  portion  of  it  is  rich  enough  for 
farming,  and  at  St.  Philip,  Elephant  and  Fish  Bays,  there 
are  excellent  harbors.  A  small  tract  near  St.  Philip  has 
lately  been  granted  to  a  company  of  Germans  for  the  pur- 


284       PEESOXAL  ADVENTITRES  AIO)  OBSERVATIONS. 

pose  of  forming  a  colony.  In  the  spiing  of  1857,  a  vessel 
laden  Tvith  emigrants,  on  their  yvay  there,  touched  at  Porto 
Praya,  St.  Jago.  They  were  hearty  and  inteUigent  looking 
men  and  ■women,  and  were  well  provided  with  agricultural 
and  domestic  implements.  We  gave  them  all  the  encour- 
agement we  could  as  to  the  health  of  the  country,  but  have 
serious  doubts  as  to  the  results. 

Ambriz,  in  the  country  of  Angola,  is  a  town  of  some  com- 
mercial importance,  and  a  favorable  resort  with  slavers. 
The  roots  of  the  dialects  of  the  tribes  of  Angola  indicate  an 
origin  in  common  with  those  of  Congo.  The  tribes  acknow- 
ledge allegiance  to  the  crown  of  Portugal  and  are  nomi- 
nally Roman  Catholics,  but  in  reality  their  religion  is  a 
wonderful  mixture  of  fetishism,  idolatry  and  Romanism. 
The  last  may  gain  the  ascendency  after  awhile,  but  not 
until  more  vigorous  measures  are  adopted  for  the  enlighten- 
ment of  the  people. 

For  near  three  hundred  years  Rome  has  had  her  mission- 
aries among  these  people,  yet  the  only  bond  fide  Catholics 
among  the  natives  are  the  few  who  have  been  educated  at 
the  schools.  Contact  with  Romanism,  however,  has  not 
been  without  effect  in  the  elevation  of  the  masses.  It  has 
given  distinctness  to  their  ideas  of  God,  the  immortality  of 
the  soul,  and  worship.  They  are  gradually  adopting  the 
arts  and  manners  of  civilized  society,  and,  excepting  the 
Jolilfs  and  Mandingocs,  we  think  them  the  most  intelligent 
and  industrious  tribes  on  the  West  Coast.  The  dress  of 
the  men  is,  generally,  a  shirt,  extending  to  the  knees,  and 
a  long  cotton  scarf,  worn  like  a  Roman  toga ;  with  most  of 
the  slaves,  however,  a  single  handkerchief  is  made  to  suit 
every  purpose.   The  female  dress  is  a  petticoat,  extending 


ANGOLA. 


285 


to  the  knees,  and  a  dark  blue  cotton  cloth,  often  of  native 
maniifiicture,  drawn  round  the  l»ody  so  as  to  cover  the 
raammte. 

The  exports  from  St.  Paul  and  Ambriz,  in  ivory,  palm 
oil,  gums,  Tvax,  horns  and  hides,  are  very  large.  We  were 
infonned  by  our  purser,  T.  Marston  Taylor,  Esq.,  who  is 
competent  authority  in  all  that  relates  to  American  trade 
and  commerce,  that  at  least  one-fifth  of  these  exports  are 
taken  by  American  traders.  Ijarge  quantities  of  southern 
flour,  and  other  American  stores,  are  imported  here,  and 
the  demand  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Our  stay  at  Loando  was  pleasant,  and  the  last  evening,  to 
me  peculiarly  interesting.  We  walked  to  the  governor's 
residence,  to  the  hospital,  and  the  ruins  of  an  old  Gothic 
church  and  monastery  in  the  suburbs ;  and  thence,  along  a 
good  road,  a  mile  or  so  into  the  country.  As  we  sat  resting 
in  a  shady  place,  several  large  trains  of  natives  with  baskets 
on  their  heads  passed  us  on  their  way  to  their  homes  in 
the  interior ;  and  occasionally  one  stopped  to  shake  hands 
with  us. 

An  erect,  grey-headed  old  man,  leading  a  small  gang  of 
peculiarly  dressed  and  charm-decorated  men,  bearing  well- 
filled  baskets,  stopped  when  he  came  near  us,  and  after 
jabbering  a  wliile  and  making  many  gestures,  which  I  partly 
understood,  extended  his  hand. 

"What  does  he  mean?"  I  asked  of  our  native  mulatto 
guide,  who,  though  he  understood  but  little  of  his  language, 
seemed  to  imderstand  his  signs. 

"  He  says  he  be  going  home — very  far — no  think  he  see 
white  man  no  more — want  you  shake  hands." 

The  guide  asked  him  "  how  far  to  his  home  ?"  he  replied 


286        PERSONAL  ADVENTTIRES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS, 


by  signs,  "  forty  days."  I  extended  my  hand,  which  he 
shook  heartily.  There  was  something  so  touching  in  the 
old  man's  manner  and  request,  that  I  foimd  occasion  to 
wipe  away  an  unbidden  tear.  He  looked  at  me  with  an 
expression  of  sur^srise,  smiled,  shook  my  hand  again,  and 
started  with  his  gang,  singing  as  they  went.  The  sincere 
blessing  of  a  white  man  went  with  him  to  his  home,  five 
hundred  miles  away,  in  the  wUds  of  Ethiopia ;  and  for  once 
in  ray  life,  I  felt  that  I  would  be  willing  to  be  an  African 
missionary,  if  my  sense  of  duty  urged  me  in  that  du'ection. 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  natives  to  come  this  distance, 
bearing  a  basket  of  ivory,  gum,  or  other  produce  to  the 
market  at  St.  Paul. 

On  the  pier  we  met  several  messmates,  each  provided 
with  a  mat,  or  some  other  curious  memento  of  Loando,  and 
at  sunset  we  took  leave  of  St.  Paul  and  the  Bishop's  Chair. 
The  streets,  when  ^yc  left,  were  still  swarming  with  negroes, 
and  the  hum  of  the  market  throng  fell  on  our  ears  like  the 
sounds  of  a  distant  cataract.  Next  day,  Januaiy  23d,  we 
ran  up  to  Ambriz,  but  seeing  no  vessels  in  the  harbor,  did 
not  enter ;  and  the  following  morning  found  us  ploughing 
our  way  toward  our  own  hemisi^hcre.  Go  with  us,  reader, 
to  the  Cape  Vcrd  Islands,  and  thence  home;  bear  with  a 
few  general  remarks  on  customs,  cruising,  and  missions  in 
Africa,  and  then  we'll  give  you  a  longer  respite  than  the 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  has  given  us  ;  and,  j^erhaps,  trouble 
you  no  more  with  Avhat  Bennett,  of  the  "Herald,"  calls 
"  the  evei'lasting  nigger  question." 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


CUSTOIIS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 

Prefatory — A  Caution — Difficulties  of  the  Subject— Conflicting  Accounts 
— A  Point  of  Agreement — Polygamy — Marriage  but  a  Trade — Evil 
Results — Slavery — How  Free  Persons  become  Slaves — Social  Position 
of  Slaves — Origin  of  African  Slavery — Origin  of  the  Slave  Trade — Its 
Effects  on  the  African  Race. 

In  this  review  of  the'  domestic,  social,  civil  and  religious 
ideas  and  institutions  of  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  we  do 
not  purpose  to  bring  each  tribe  under  consideration.  "VVe 
have  not  the  means  of  doing  this  ;  nor  is  it  our  purpose  to 
look  so  closely  into  society,  as  to  pursue  the  differences  or 
resemblances,  which  may  exist  between  the  more  important 
tribes  in  thought  and  conduct,  with  reference  to  these  rela- 
tions. We  are  not  sure  that  it  would  be  profitable  to  do  so, 
supposing  that  Ave  were  both  competent  and  inclined ;  but 
we  are  neither.  Our  object  is  to  give  the  reader  a  general 
idea  of  humanity  in  Africa,  considered  in  these  aspects ;  Avhat 
men  generally  believe,  and  what  they  generally  practise,  in 
tlieir  private  and  public  relations  with  each  other,  and  hoAV 
they  are  affected,  morally  and  intellectually,  by  both.  We 
caution  the  reader  against  expecting  much.  Our  subjects 
arc  dark  ;  "  the  shadowy  livery  of  the  burnished  sun"  covers 
not  only  the  faces  of  the  Africans,  but  also  their  private  life 
and  their  ideas  of  government  and  religion. 

The  reader  cannot  be  told  distitictli/  Avhat  is  believed,  for 
the  believers  have  no  very  distinct  belief,  and  they  are  slow 

287 


28S        PEESOXAL  ADYENTUKES  AXD  OBSEKTATIOXS. 


and  disincliiiecl  to  communicate  their  impressions ;  and  when 
they  attempt  commrmication  they  are  indistinctly  under- 
stood, because  of  the  hearer's  ignorance  of  their  -weak  and 
idiomatic  languages.  Nor  can  he  be  told  much,  indeed 
nothing  certamly^  of  the  origin  of  any  of  theii*  domestic  or 
evU  customs,  for  they  have  no  history,  and  their  traditions 
are  wholly  imreliable.  Modified  by  contact  with  white 
men,  by  the  slave-trade,  by  commerce,  by  the  teachings  of 
missionaries,  Mohammedan,  Romish,  and  Protestant,  the  in- 
stitutions and  ideas  of  to-day  are  not  those  of  five  centuries 
ago,  nor  are  they  those  that  will  be  a  century  hence.  What 
wonder  then,  that,  with  this  state  of  things,  the  accounts 
given  us  of  Africa  should  be  so  laughably  contradictory — 
accounts  too  given  us  by  men  whom  we  know  to  be  intelli- 
gent and  truth-loving  ?  This  is  necessarily  so,  because,  in 
practice  and  belief,  it  is  a  land  of  contradictions.  We  spent 
this  morning  two  hours  in  trying  to  reconcile  Mr.  Cruik- 
shank  and  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson  on  one  point ;  namely,  as  to 
whether  the  inhabitants  of  Upper  Guinea  worshipped  evil 
spirits  or  not.  They  are  irreconcilable ;  yet  both  of  these 
gentlemen  resided  eighteen  years  in  Western  Afiica,  and 
made  the  habits  of  the  people  their  study ;  and  they  are 
equally  entitled,  by  their  intelligence  and  integrity,  to  con- 
fidence. In  this,  however,  all  are  agreed,  that  if  the  devil 
had  any  hand  in  the  creation  of  man  (as  hold  the  Two  Seed 
Baptists),  this  must  be  his  part  of  the  job.  But  our  busi- 
ness is  not  to  reconcile  contradictions  which  may  exist  in  the 
ideas  of  the  Africans,  or  antagonisms  in  their  institutions, 
but  to  give  a  little  light,  as  to  Avhat  these  are ;  and  in  doing 
so  we  draw  upon  our  own  observations,  and  facts  gleaned 
from  missionaries,  traders,  and  late  reliable  authors. 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 


289 


POLTGASrS" 

Exists  among  every  tribe  on  the  West  Coast,  and,  so  far  as 
we  are  informed,  thron2;hont  the  leno;th  and  breadth  of 
Africa.  The  ability  to  purchase  and  provide  for  wives  (so 
far  as  the  husband  has  to  provide),  is  the  only  limit  which 
law  or  public  opinion  sets  to  the  number  which  a  man  may 
have.  A  man's  influence  and  importance  in  society  may  be 
estimated  by  the  number  of  his  wives ;  but  if  he  is  a  good 
subject,  and  does  not  -wish  to  excite  the  jealousy  of  the 
king,  he  Avill  always  have  fewer  than  his  majesty,  be  his 
wealth  ever  so  great. 

Of  the  romance  of  love  and  courtship,  but  little  is  known 
in  Africa.  On  arriving  at  the  age  of  puberty,  if  he  be  a  free 
born  person,  the  young  man  finds  a  few  wives — the  number 
in  proportion  to  the  means  of  his  father — awaiting  the  time 
of  their  espousals;  and  to  this  number  he  may  add  any  that 
he  may  have  fallen  in  love  with  in  the  foolishness  of  his  boy- 
hood ;  provided  that  they  are  not  betrothed  to  another, 
and  provided  further,  that  he  is  able  to  p.ay  tlie  required 
dower,  Avhich  varies  from  five  to  forty  dollars.  If  he  be  a 
slave,  he  may  find  one  or  more  appropriated  to  him,  accord- 
ing to  the  taste  of  his  master  ;  and  to  these  he  may  add, 
according  to  his  inclination  and  ability  to  purchase ;  and 
over  those  purchased  he  has  perfect  control ;  but  at  his  death 
they  become  the  slaves  of  his  master.  The  Avishcs  of  the 
woman  are  seldom  consulted.  She  is  often  purchased  while 
still  a  child,  and  is  told,  when  she  is  old  enough  to  under- 
stand such  things,  that  she  is  to  forego  all  thought  of  others 
than  the  jmrchascr,  and  any  disreg.ird  of  this  advice  is 
•    •  13 


290       PEKSONAL  ADVENTDKE3  AND  OBSEKYATIONS. 


pimishecT  as  severely  as  though  the  marriage  ceremony  had 
been  already  performed. 

African  mothers  are  flattered  to  have  suitors  for  their 
daughters  while  they  are  still  young,  and  often  dispose  of 
them  to  the  highest  bidder,  without  the  least  respect  to  the 
ajipearancc,  age,  or  character  of  the  buyer.  The  jiurchaser 
places  a  strmg  of  beads  on  the  neck  of  the  girl  or  child,  and 
in  case  of  the  death  of  her  mother,  before  the  child  is  of  age, 
the  husband  expectant  removes  her  to  his  home  and  places 
her  under  the  guardianship  of  an  old  woman.  Sometimes, 
however,  a  girl  is  lucky  enough  to  find  herself  unsold  when 
overtaken  by  the  tender  passion.  She  may  then  propose — 
for  it  is  always  leap  year  in  Africa — and  if  the  man  of  her 
choice  has  still  a  vacant  chamber  in  his  heart — capacious 
hearts  these  fellows  have — and  the  means  of  buying  her 
from  her  parents,  a  union  is  formed  on  the  basis  of  mutual 
attachment.  Sometimes  a  betrothed  girl  falls  in  love,  and 
if  the  object  of  her  regard  can  arrange  matters  with  the 
husband  by  purchase,  her  marriage  with  him  is  alloM'ed. 
This  is  often  a  delicate  and  dilEcult  matter,  but  if  the  hus- 
band is  old,  or  pretty  well  supplied,  the  affair  is  more  easily 
consummated.  Love,  like  hunger,  will  break  through  a  stone 
wall ;  and  unlawful  amours  are  constantly  occurring  notwith- 
standing the  severity  M'ith  which  adultery  is  punished.  The 
punishment  of  the  woman,  if  her  husband  desire  it,  is  muti- 
lation ;  the  nose,  an  ear,  or  a  finger  is  taken  off ;  the  man, 
generally,  is  enslaved  to  the  injured  party.  There  is  a  dif- 
ference in  the  domestic  and  social  standing  of  the  wives 
i:)urchased  as  slaves,  and  those  received  by  dower  and  the 
consent  of  parents.  The  latter  may  leave  their  husbands  at 
any  time,  by  the  restoration  of  the  dower  with  certain  in- 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFEICA. 


291 


terest.  The  former  are  slaves  for  life ;  and  the  children  of 
both  are  the  property  of  the  flither.  Among  most  tribes 
each  wife  is  furnished  with  a  hut,  and  the  families  dwell 
apart,  but  they  are  all  under  the  supervision  of  the  head 
wife,  who  is  generally  an  old,  and,  from  her  position,  an  in- 
fluential person. 

Generally,  the  wives  are  expected  to  maintain  themselves 
and  their  children ;  what  they  obtain  from  the  husband  they 
receive  in  the  Avay  of  presents.  When  a  husband  dies,  the 
wives,  with  other  property,  fall  to  the  eldest  son  ;  and  his 
mother,  who  is  treated  with  respect,  becomes  the  mistress 
of  the  household.  The  old  wives  are  thus  provided  for,  and, 
as  a  redeeming  trait  be  it  mentioned,  they  are  generally  well 
treated.  Reverence  for  age  is  the  most  2")rominent  virtue  in 
Africa.  Wives  are  proud,  and  of  social  importance,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size  of  the  domestic  cii'cle  of  which  they  are 
members  ;  and,  strange  as  it  maj'  appear,  and  contradictory 
of  certain  elements  of  character,  common  to  women,  an  Af- 
rican girl  considers  it  a  misfortune  to  be  affianced  to  a  man 
who  has  but  one  or  two  wives. 

It  M'ill  be  seen,  on  a  consideration  of  these  facts,  that 
African  polygamy  is  intimately  related  to,  and  largely  pro- 
ductive of 

DOMESTIC  SLAVERY. 

It  is  said  that  four-fifths  of  the  Africans  are  slaves.  This 
estimate  has  been  objected  to,  as  being  too  large  ;  we  are 
safe,  however,  in  saying,  that  in  western  Africa,  three- 
fourths  of  the  people  are  slaves.  This  large  proportion  will 
not  be  so  much  wondered  at,  when  wc  see  how  numerous 
and  easy  arc  the  ways  by  which  men  pass  into  slavery. 


292 


PEKSOXAI,  ADVEXTCTJES  AND  OBSEKVATIOIfS. 


First,  the  father  is  the  owner  of  his  children ;  and  though 
the  children  of  a  free  man  are  not  generally  considered  or 
treated  as  slaves,  he  has  the  right  to  sell  them  -wheneTer  he 
may  choose  and  without  respect  to  their  age  or  circumstances. 
Second,  the  children  of  slaves  are  slaves  unless  freed  by  the 
OMTier.  Third,  all  captives  taken  in  war  are  the  slaves  of 
the  captors.  This  jierquisite  gives  daring  to  the  African 
soldiers,  and  prompts  a  degree  of  mercy  without  which  aU 
their  wars  would  be  wars  of  extermination.  Fourth,  per- 
sons sold  for  debt  are  slaves  imtil  the  debt  is  redeemed. 
This  is  a  fruitfid  source  of  slavery.  In  time  of  famine,  men 
who  have  no  slaA-es  to  dispose  of,  or  not  enough  to  meet  the 
demand,  pawn  themselves,  or  their  wives,  or  children,  for 
food,  or  the  means  of  procuring  it ;  promising  to  jDay  as  much 
as  fifty  per  cent,  interest — this  is  a  common  interest  in  such 
transactions — and  in  a  majority  of  such  instances  the  pawn 
is  never  redeemed.  This  system,  which  in  Mexico  is  called 
peoning,  is  here  called  jjanyaring. 

A  degree  of  admirable  self-immolation  is  sometimes  shoAvu 
in  such  cases  of  flmiily  distress,  by  a  member  coming  for- 
ward and  offermg  himself  to  the  highest  bidder,  willing  to 
go  anywhere,  or  to  be  anj-thing,  so  that  he  may  relieve  his 
father  and  mother,  or  other  dear  relatives,  from  distress, 
and  the  disgrace  of  enslavement.  Africans  are  wild  in  their 
speculations,  sanguine  in  their  undertakings,  and  to  carry 
out  a  favorite  pursuit  will  pawn  themselves  even  when  tlic 
hope  of  redemption  is  small.  They  pawn  themselves  for 
tawdry  merchandise ;  pawn  themselves  to  lawyers  to  free 
them  from  difficulties,  or  to  punish  an  enemy ;  pawn  them- 
selves to  the  priests  for  ghostly  comfort,  for  relief  from  a 
malady  or  a  witch.    It  is  a  dernier  resort,  but  while  they 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  "WEST  COAST  OF  AFEICA. 


293 


are  free  they  feel  that  they  are  not  destitute,  even  though 
poor ;  they  feel  that  they  o\ni  marketable  articles  in  them- 
selves. Every  free  man  in  Africa,  therefore,  owns  "  one 
nieser."  How  intense  must  be  their  self-consciousness! 
Fifth,  the  adulterer,  among  many  tribes,  is  sold  to  pay  the 
fines  in  such  cases  provided,  if  he  have  no  other  means  of 
meeting  them,  or  is  turned  over  by  the  judges  to  the  hus- 
band offended.  To  murder  the  offender  would  not  be 
allowed,  and  if  the  new  owner  pimish  very  severely  he 
would  be  considered  mean.  Men  of  great  cupidity  and  a 
superabundance  of  wives,  often  increase  their  property  by 
employing  a  seductive  and  pretty  woman  to  lure  men  into 
her  wiles,  and  then  betray  tliem  ;  having  provided  before- 
hand, and  often  ingeniously,  that  the  proofs  shall  be  posi- 
tive and  ample.  The  punishment  of  the  woman  in  such 
•  cases  is  merely  nominal. 

Slaves  may  own  slaves,  and  other  species  of  property; 
and  in  laboring  and  saving  for  this  purpose  they  are  encou- 
raged by  their  owners  ;  for  the  reason  that  at  the  death  of 
the  slave,  all  his  property  falls  into  the  hands  of  his  master. 

Where  the  slave  is  of  the  same  race  and  color  as  the  mas- 
ter, where  slaves  and  owners  arc  on  an  equality  as  to  intel- 
ligence, where  blood  relationship  extensively  exists,  and  the 
right  of  holding  property  is  allowed,  the  line  of  social  dis- 
tinction between  slaves  and  owners  cannot  be  very  wide. 
Indeed  slaves  are  generally  treated  as  members  of  the  family ; 
they  hunt,  fish,  work,  eat,  and  sleep  with  the  children  of 
llie  master  ;  are  frequently  admitted  to  Ills  confidence,  and 
take  charge  of  his  affaii-s,  and  the  slaves  of  headmen  or 
princes  frequently  hold  important  office  in  the  government. 
When  sales  are  made,  of  course  the  least  valuable  and  relia- 


294:       PEKSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


ble  are  first  disposed  of ;  and  among  many  tribes  a  degree 
of  consideration,  which  might  be  safely  imitated  by  civilized 
nations,  is  shown  for  the  domestic  ties  of  the  person  sold. 
Slaves  run  aw.ay  sometimes  in  Africa  as  elsewhere,  but  whei  e 
there  is  no  division  of  sentiment  as  to  the  right  of  holding 
men  in  this  relation,  and  the  perfect  right  of  the  master  to 
treat  his  property  as  he  pleases  is  generally  acknowledged, 
and  it  is  felt  to  be  the  interest  of  the  community  at  large  to 
sustain  these  rights,  the  recovery  of  runaways  is  generally 
effected  without  recourse  to  police  ofiicers. 

As  we  intimated  in  a  late  chapter,  the  growing  demand 
for  African  productions  is  increasing  the  value  of  home 
labor ;  slaves  are,  therefore,  advancing  in  value  on  parts  of 
the  coast,  despite  the  suiDpression  of  the  foreign  slave-trade  ; 
the  authority  of  the  master  is  increasingly  felt,  and  the  social 
division  between  the  owners  and  workers  is  widening  daily. 

Of  the  history  of  domestic  slaveiy  in  western  Africa  but 
little  is  known.  Fanatics  who  are  disposed  to  charge  on  the 
foreign  slave-trade  all  the  social  and  moral  ills  which  burden 
Africa,  tell  us  that  this  also  is  one  of  its  fruits.  Of  course 
we  differ  toto  from  these  men.  "We  think  that  under  the 
present  conditions  of  society  in  Africa  slavery  is  a  blessing 
rather  than  an  evil ;  and  as  to  its  origin,  reasoning  from  the 
analogy  presented  in  the  history  of  other  races,  we  think 
that  it  is  coeval  with  the  African  race.  Supposing  that  the 
classic  histories  which  tell  of  the  importations  of  Ethiopians 
into  Egypt,  centuries  before  the  present  era,  and  subse- 
quently into  Greece,  to  be  unreliable ;  or  that  the  term 
"Ethiopian"  maybe  ai)plied  to  the  Berbers  of  Alias  .and 
the  Sahara,  reliable  Portuguese  authority  is  given  for  the 
fact,  that  the  earliest  modern  navigators  found  slavery  ex- 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AIHICA.  295 


isting  among  the  tribes  of  the  West  Coast.  The  fact  that 
slaves  were  bought  and  sold  in  Africa,  no  doubt,  suggested 
to  the  Portuguese  traders  that  a  profitable  business  might 
be  done  by  buying  slaves  on  the  coast  and  shipping  them 
to  parts  where  labor  was  more  valuable,  and  where  laborers 
would  bring  a  higher  price.  The  slave-trade,  as  it  has  been 
carried  on,  especially  in  the  course  of  the  last  half  century, 
has  been  bad  enough  in  all  conscience,  but  let  it  be  respon- 
sible only  for  the  evil  that  it  has  done.  "We  would  not  for 
any  considei'ation  be  considered  as  saying  anything  encou- 
raging to  the  forlorn  hope  of  reopening  this  trade — to  do  so 
at  present  would  be  to  compromise  the  dignity  of  our  na- 
tion and  the  humanity  of  our  religion,  yet  at  the  same  time 
we  believe  that  the  Great  Disposer  of  events  will  so  direct 
the  issues  of  this  trade  as  to  make  them  contribute  to  the 
moral  and  intellectual  elevation  of  the  African  race.  Who 
that  has  compared  carefully,  and  from  actual  observation, 
the  condition  of  the  black  man  in  America  with  that  of  the 
black  man  in  Africa,  can  hesitate  to  say  that  in  the  former 
tliis  trade  lias  been  made  a  blessing  indeed  ?  From  Ame- 
rica have  gone  forth,  and  vnll  continue  to  go  forth,  men 
Christianized  and  enlightcnecl,  commissioned  by  the  church 
as  harbingers  of  the  liglit  of  life  to  their  brethren  who  sit 
in  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death.  There  is  profound 
significance  in  the  resolution  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Slaughter,  of 
Virginia,  ofiered  at  a  late  anniversary  of  the  American 
Colonization  Society,  "  that  America  in  Africa  solves  the 
problem  of  Africa  in  America." 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 


CrSTOilS  OF  THE  "WEST  COAST  OF  AFKICA. 

Forms  of  Government — Ordeals — Fetish  Oath — Eed  Water — Religions 
Ideas — Difference  between  Fetishism  and  Idolatry — Fetish  Priests — 
Ideas  of  God — A  Future  State — Evil  Spirits — Witches — Things  to  be 
Remembered — Hope  Gathered  from  the  Credulity  of  the  African. 

What  is  the  form  of  goTernment,  and.  how  is  justice 
administerecl  in  such  a  state  of  society  ?  are  the  next  ques- 
tions in  order.  Here,  reader,  vre  are  in  deep  shades,  if  not 
in  utter  darkness.  A  Tankee  captain,  Tvho  knew  but  little 
about  navigation,  and  had  but  an  inferior  chronometer,  and 
that  stopped  a  few  days  before  he  made  land,  recently  made 
his  way  to  the  Cape  Verd  Islands,  and  delivered  his  cargo 
to  the  i-)roper  consignee.  "When  asked,  by  our  master,  how 
in  the  world  he  managed  to  make  his  port,  he  replied : 

"  Wal,  ye  see,  this  ere  old  clock  helped  us  on  some ;  but 
I  tell  you  what,  neighbor,  my  main  dependence  was  on 
luck  and  guessing.  Wal,  I  guess  it's  as  good  a  way  as  any 
— but  if  the  plagued  old  clicker  hadn't  got  water-logged 
and  gin  out,  I  guess  we  mout  a  been  here  a  matter  of  a  day 
or  two  sooner." 

The  facts  before  us,  gathered  from  many  sources,  serve 
to  cany  us  some  distance  into  these  questions,  but  like  the 
Yankee's  chronometer,  they  give  out  before  the  answers  are 
fully  made.  The  general  outline  and  more  prominent  facts, 
however,  may  be  traced.  In  Africa,  almost  every  fonn  of 
government  may  be  foimd ;  the  jjatriarchal  government,  dcs- 

296 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFKICA.  297 


potism,  constitutional  monarchy,  oligarchy,  republicanism, 
and  mobocracy ;  and  some  of  the  governments  have  mix- 
tures of  two  or  more  of  these.  The  prevailing  type  is  a 
patriarchal  despotism. 

Shrewdness  is  a  great  power  in  Africa,  as  elsewhere,  but 
wealth  is  greatest.  The  richest  man  of  a  town  or  village  is 
generally  "  headman,"  and  assisted  by  those  who  approach 
nearest  to  himself  in  wealth  or  influence,  dictates  municipal 
law,  hears  disputes,  levies  fines  and  taxes,  imposes  penalties, 
and  leads  in  war.  Each  slave-o^vner  and  head  of  a  family 
is,  in  his  sphere,  a  patriarch ;  he,  if  he  be  not  leader  himself, 
acknowledges  his  allegiance  to  the  leader  or  headman  of  his 
town,  treats  him  with  reverence,  and,  though  having  his 
own  private  flag,  fights  under  his  banner,  and  in  all  respects 
becomes  a  retainer  of  the  headman.  With  a  number  of 
such  adherents,  the  headman  becomes  a  feudal  baron ;  and 
in  turn  acknowledges  his  allegiance  to  the  king  or  head- 
man of  the  tribe  or  tribes  with  which  he  may  be  confede- 
rated. The  king  generally  holds  such  men  responsible  for 
the  conduct  and  taxes  of  the  towns  over  which  they  preside. 

If  the  king  is  shrewd,  as  well  as  rich,  he  may  exercise 
great  authority.  lie  may  make  use  of  the  jealousies  Avhich 
ever  exist  between  the  various  tribes  and  towns  of  his  king- 
dom, to  compel  any  one  of  them  into  his  measures.  But 
whenever  he  commits  any  extreme  act,  such  as  the  deposing 
of  a  headman,  or  the  confiscation  of  property,  or  imposes 
an  unusual  tax  upon  a  tribe  or  town,  he  must  show  that  the 
general  good  demands  it,  or  that  for  doing  so  he  lias  the 
authority  of  a  predecessor.  If,  however,  he  does  such 
things  capriciously,  his  barons,  not  knowing  which  of  them 
may  be  next  served  in  the  same  way,  soon  get  rid  of  him, 

13* 


298       PEESONAL  ADTENTHEES  AXD  OBSEKYATIONS. 


In  most  of  the  kingdoms  of  western  Africa,  the  government 
is  hereditary,  but  passes  from  one  brother  to  another, 
rather  than  from  father  to  son.  How  chiefs  of  to-wns  are 
gotten  rid  of  when  they  become  unpopular  with  the  people, 
and  are  still  in  favor  with  the  king,  I  do  not  know.  Witch- 
craft may  be  useful  on  such  occasions. 

When  jjarties  are  at  variance,  they  appeal  to  the  influen- 
tial and  old  men  of  the  town,  who  form  a  council.  Plain- 
tiff, defendant,  and  witnesses,  are  brought  into  court 
together,  the  case  is  heard,  debated,  mkI  generally  decided 
in  flxvor  of  the  one  who  has  done  the  most  bribing.  Some- 
times the  bribes  are  equal,  sometimes  the  litigants  are  both 
poor,  or  the  case  in  point  may  be  one  bearing  largely  on  a 
question  of  general  interest  to  the  community  :  in  such  cases 
the  judgment  rendered  is  based  on  justice.  There  are  cases, 
however,  which  this  body  M-ill  not  decide  finally :  as,  for 
instance,  wliether  one  person  has  bewitched  another.  The 
defendant,  in  such  cases,  may  appeal  to  the  ordeal  of  a 
solemn  oath  before  a  Fetish,  or  to  the  Red  Water,  Whei-e 
parties  at  variance  are  not  satisfied  with  the  decision  of  the 
judges,  they  may  appeal  to  an  established  ordeal.  Also, 
where  an  individual  is  suspected  of  bewitching  cattle  or 
crops,  or  other  bad  conduct,  he  may  appeal  to  an  ordeal  to 
attest  his  innocence,  or  may  be  compelled  by  public  clamor 
to  submit  to  such  a  test.  Kroomen  and  others,  who  have 
been  long  from  home,  frequently  try  the  fidelity  of  their 
wives  by  this  means ;  and  all  persons  who  pass  the  prescribed 
ordeal  unhurt,  arc  exonerated  from  suspicion,  can  no  more 
be  tried  for  the  oft'eucc  in  question,  and  are  restored  to 
their  original  position  in  society,  increased  in  respect  and 
importance. 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  299 

The  most  common  ordeal  in  "w  estern  Afiica  is  that  of 


KED  TVATEE. 

This  is  a  decoction  of  the  bark  of  sassa-wood  (a  species 
of  mimosa),  is  a  powerful  narcotic,  and  when  made  very 
strong,  or  taken  in  large  quantities,  is  also  an  active  emetic. 
It  is  generally  administered  by  the  priest  who  prepares  it, 
and  in  the  presence  of  the  old  men  of  the  town,  the  rela- 
tives, friends,  and  enemies  of  the  accused.  This  person 
occupies,  with  the  priest  or  priestess,  the  centre  of  the 
throng,  is  generally  naked,  and  before  drinking  the  trying 
potion,  makes  a  general  confession  of  the  sins  of  his  life, 
invokes  the  name  of  God  three  times,  then  drinks  boldly, 
if  he  knows  the  priest  to  be  his  friend,  but  tremblingly  if 
he  has  doubts  on  the  subject,  or  happens  to  be  guilty.  If 
his  stomach  rejects  the  water,  he  suffers  no  inconvenience, 
is  declared  innocent,  and  friends  and  foes  join  to  conduct 
him  home  in  triumpli ;  but  if  vertigo  ensues,  which  is  always 
the  case  when  the  fluid  remains  on  the  stomach,  he  is  de- 
clared guilty,  and  the  infuriated  mob,  after  dragging  him 
by  the  heels  through  the  streets  of  the  town,  jeering  and 
abusing  him,  dispatch  him  with  clubs  and  stones.  In  this 
horrid  butchery  the  friends,  and  even  the  near  relatives  of 
the  offender,  are  required  to  take  part,  lest  they  be  con- 
sidered parties  to  the  crime.  As  the  priests  are  well  skilled 
in  the  preparation  of  this  draught,  the  guilt  or  innocence 
of  the  persons  tried  is,  of  course,  decided  by  them  before- 
hand ;  and  in  making  their  decisions  they  are  generally 
influenced  by  the  popular  opinion,  though  often  by  personal 
feeling.    If  they  detennine  that  the  person  is  innocent, 


300       PEESONAIi  ADVENT0EES  MTD  OBSEEVATIONS. 


they  make  the  red  water,  and  admiuister  it  accord- 
ingly. 

The  ordeal  of  an 

OATH  BEFOEE  A  FETISH 

and  Fetishmen — priests — is  much  practised  on  the  Gold 
Coast.  The  accused  person  is  brought  before  the  Fetish  and 
its  priests,  -n-herc,  after  the  performance  of  many  mysterious 
rites,  he  is  adjured  to  confess  the  truth  on  penalty  of  incur- 
ring, temporally  and  eternally,  the  anger  of  the  Fetish. 
The  priest  hears  the  confession,  and  determines  as  to  its 
truth  or  falsity.  These  ordeals  will  remind  the  Scripture 
reader  of  the  oath  by  the  Temjilc  and  the  oath  by  the 
Altar,  and  the  Bitter  Water  of  Jealousy  mentioned  in  Num- 
bers v.,  11,  et  seq. 

This  brings  us  to  consider  the 

EELIGIOUS  IDEAS 

of  the  people  of  the  "West  Coast.  In  this  chapter,  as  in 
several  preceding  it,  Ave  have  spoken  of  Fetish  worship  and 
of  Fetishism,  as  being  the  religion  of  the  west  Africans. 
Fetishism  is  not  idolatry,  as  that  term  is  generally  under- 
stood. It  is  the  religious  idea  antecedent  and  inferior  to 
idolatry.  Idolatry  is  based  on  Polytheism  :  it  recognizes 
gods  many  and  lords  many,  accessible  to  the  praises  and 
supplications  of  mortals  through  such  media  as  images  and 
animals.  Taking  the  idolaters  of  ancient  Egypt,  Greece  and 
Home,  or  of  modern  China  and  India,  as  exponents  of  this 
term,  idolatry  clearly  recognizes  the  existence  of  a  Spiritual 
Being  or  God,  worshipped  as  separate  from,  and  indepcnd- 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFKICA.  301 


ent  of,  the  creature  or  substance  which  may  be  employed  to 
represent  him.  The  image  or  altar,  the  bird  or  beast,  has 
in  itself  no  power,  no  value,  other  than  a  representative 
value,  is  esteemed  as  it  is  considered  the  mediator  through 
which  the  god  permits  approach,  and  by  which  he  expresses 
such  of  his  qualities  as  he  is  disposed  to  reveal  to  the  wor- 
shippers. To  the  intelligent  idolater,  an  image  of  Jupiter, 
or  Juggernaut,  was  no  more  a  god  than  the  mihewn  tree, 
unless  it  had  been  consecrated  by  the  priest  of  that  god,  or 
received  miraculous  evidence  that  the  god  was  willing  to 
acknowledge  it  as  his  representative.  Fetishism  recognizes 
supernatural  power  as  inherent  in  certain  things.  The 
Fetish,  or,  as  it  is  generally  called,  the  grisgris,  is  prized 
for  its  o^\Ti  sake,  and  is  worshipped  without  reference  to 
anything  ulterior. 

The  philosophy  of  Fetishism  is  this :  there  is  a  Supremo 
Being,  maker  of  all  things,  who  still  presides  over  important 
events,  lie,  in  mercy  to  man,  bestowed  upon  certain  ani- 
mals, vegetables,  minerals,  waters,  and  compound  sub- 
stances, a  measure  of  his  spirit  and  nature.  To  diflereut 
substances  different  natures,  and  to  separate  portions  of 
t^e  same  substance  separate  qualities. 

Every  man  by  nature  is  entitled  to  a  Fetish,  or  a  num- 
ber of  them,  for  his  personal  use ;  this  may  be  a  bit  of 
wood,  the  hoof,  horn,  or  tooth  of  an  animal,  a  scrap  of 
leather  fancifully  formed,  or  even  an  old  rag.  In  the 
selection  of  a  grisgris  (pronounced  gree-gree),  the  wor- 
shipper is  guided  by  a  blind  impulse  of  feeling,  or  the 
suggestion  of  a  priest;  he  selects  it  for  a  particular  ob- 
ject— to  prevent  sickness,  to  assist  in  punishing  or  detect- 
ing an  enemy,  to  prevent  death  in  battle,  to  assist  in 


302       PEKSONAI,  ADTENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


trade,  oi'  anything  else  that  he  may  desire.  He  wears  it 
about  his  neck,  wrist,  or  ankle,  sacrifices  to  it,  and  that 
often  by  shedding  the  blood  of  some  bird  or  animal. 
He  believes  in  the  power  of  the  charm  until  he  finds  it 
useless ;  then  he  throws  it  away,  believing  that  he  made 
a  mistake  in  his  selection,  or  that  he  did  not  imderstand 
how  to  treat  it,  but  without  the  least  abatement  in  his 
confidence  of  the  power  of  Fetishes  in  general.  So  true  is 
it  that  the  soul  must  have  some  resting-place  for  its  hopes 
and  faith. 

Besides  the  Fetish  of  the  individual,  each  family  has  its 
household  Fetish ;  then  there  is  the  Fetish  of  the  town, 
which  has  its  temple  and  a  priest,  and  the  Fetish  of  the 
tribe,  which  often  has  many  priests.  The  Fetish  of  the 
town  is  resorted  to  when  sickness  or  other  calamity  threat- 
ens ;  and  that  of  the  tribe  when  war,  famine,  or  other  gene- 
ral evils  invade.  They  are  appealed  to  also  by  parties  at 
variance,  who  cannot  otherwise  settle  their  disj^utes.  Such 
things  are  windfalls  to  the  priest. 

A  cunning  set  of  rascals  arc  these  priests  ;  well  skilled  in 
ventriloquism  and  legerdemain,  they  have  great  power 
over  the  people,  and  can  bring  even  princes  to  their  feet. 
They  enter  the  priesthood  early  in  life,  and  so  complete  are 
their  deceptions,  that  they  deceive  even  themselves,  and 
are,  therefore,  often  conscientious  in  blinding  and  deceiving 
their  followers. 

The  idea  of  one  God  and  Creator  prevails  among  the 
tribes  of  the  West  Coast.  This  belief  has  been  attributed 
to  the  spread  of  Mohammedanism  in  Africa,  but,  as  we 
have  shown,  as  Fetishism  is  based  upon  this  idea,  it  must  bo 
as  old  as  the  religion  of  the  people.    Mr.  Cruikshank,  an 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFKICA.  303 


English  office!"  avLo  resided  eighteen  years  on  the  Gold 
Coast,  and  made  the  religion  of  its  tribes  his  study,  viewing 
this  idea  from  the  philological  stand-point,  says :  "  The 
Fantee  word  Yankompom,  derived  from  '  Yankom,'  friend, 
and  '  ei3on,'  great ;  and  the  word  '  yammie,'  from  '  yeeh,' 
made,  '  eme,'  me,  names  by  which  they  designate  God, 
■would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  idea  of  a  benevolent  Ci'e- 
ator  Avas  coeval  with  the  language," 

Like  the  Babylonians  and  Sepharvaim  brought  to  Sama- 
ria by  the  king  of  Assyria,  the  Africans  '■'■fear  the  Lord, 
but  serve  graven  images."  They  occasionally  invoke  his 
name,  but  never  worship  him.  Of  their  ideas  of  his  moral 
attributes  we  have  spoken  in  Chapter  VIII.  Some  of  their 
rites — for  instance,  that  of  calling  on  God  three  times  be- 
fore drinking  the  Red  Water — seem  to  have  a  remote 
reference  to  the  Trinity.  These  may  be  the  shadowings  of 
an  indistinct  intuition,  or  the  symbolical  remains  of  a  tra- 
dition whose  verbal  form  has  long  since  passed  away. 

Their  ideas  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul  are  vague,  yet 
they  believe  that  the  thinking  princii>le,  and  that  in  man 
which  suffers  and  enjoys,  will  survive  the  body;  and  that 
in  the  future  state  the  good  will  be  happy ;  and  that  there, 
those  whose  sins  have  not  been  sufficiently  punished  in  this 
life  will  be  subjected  to  such  sufferings  as  their  unexpiated 
crimes  may  demand.  The  transmigration  of  souls  is  held 
by  many  tribes  ;  and  not  unfrequcntly  a  shark,  an  alligator, 
or  a  snake,  is  regarded  as  a  near  kinsman.  They  believe 
tliat  the  spirits  of  the  departed  have  some  knowledge  of 
tilings  occurring  on  earth,  that  they  are  capable  of  cxercis- 
iii£r  some  influence  over  friends  or  enemies,  and  receive 
pleasure  from  things  which  pleased  them  in  life.  Hence 


304        PEESOXAi  ADTENTTEES  A>-D  OBSEETATIOXS, 

they  pray  to  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors  for  aid  in  trouble, 
pour  oblations  of  rum,  oU,  and  rice  on  their  graves,  and 
murder  slaves  that  they  may  have  attendants  in  the  other 
world. 

They  may  not  believe  in  the  existence  of  the  devil,  but 
they  do  believe  in  the  existence  of  evil  spirits  who  have 
power  to  injure  them,  and  if  they  do  not  worship  them, 
they  certainly  try  sometimes  to  conciliate  them,  and  pray 
them  to  depart  out  of  their  coasts.  The  belief  in  witches 
is  general,  and,  like  our  worthy  colonial  ancestors,  they 
have  rules  for  detecting  them.  Among  some  tribes,  the 
person  found  guilty  of  possessing  this  dreaded  power  is 
burnt  or  otherwise  killed,  and  receives  the  burial  of  a  dog. 
Among  others,  the  witch  is  exorcised  by  the  j^riest,  and  the 
person  formerly  possessed  is  permitted  to  go  free  after  pay- 
ing penalties.  Sickness  and  death  are  supposed  to  be  the 
work  of  witches,  and  the  injured  parties  turn  to  the  ranks 
of  their  enemies  to  find  the  guilty  one. 

Circumcision  is  practised  by  many  tribes ;  indeed.  Fetish- 
ism contains  many  elements  of  Judaism  and  Mohammedan- 
ism ;  and,  on  the  South  Coast,  Romanism  has  made  modifi- 
cations and  left  new  rites  and  ideas.  We  can  account  for 
the  Romish  and  Mohammedan  practices,  but  to  account  for 
those  of  Judaism  is  left  to  conjecture. 

Many  of  these  superstitions  excite  our  sympathy,  others 
our  laughter ;  but  let  us  not  suppose  that  these  things  are 
ev  idences  of  a  peculiar  and  incurable  depravity  in  the  Afri- 
can. Let  us  not  forget  that  the  Patriarchs  were  polyga- 
mists ;  that  the  leanied  and  t-legant  Grecians  were  polythe- 
ists  ;  that  our  British,  Angle,  and  Saxon  forefathers 
worshijiped  stocks  and  stones ;  that  the  Corsned  cake 


CTJSTOMS  OF  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  305 

ordeal  was  appealed  to  in  cei-tain  kinds  of  guilt  in  Cornwall, 
England,  as  late  as  the  eighteenth  century ;  that  some  of 
the  ablest  statesmen  and  profoundest  theologians  of  modern 
times  have  believed  in  witches  and  haunted  houses  ;  and, 
finally,  that  the  si^irit-rapping  and  spirit-worship,  which  has 
made  so  many  crazy  and  been  so  mischievous,  by  free  love 
and  other  "movements"  in  its  "circle,"  belongs  to  the 
nineteenth  century.  But  this  long  and  varied  creed,  these 
numerous  beliefs  regarding  things  spiiitual  and  things  mar 
terial,  afford  ground  for  the  hope  of  the  African's  civiliza- 
tion. They  show  his  capacity  to  believe  ;  they  are  the 
vouchers  of  his  relationship,  his  identity,  with  the  genus 
man.  They  show  the  possession  of  will,  moral  sense,  and 
pure  intellect ;  and  with  these  we  Avould  be  compelled  to 
acknowledge  him  a  man  though  his  heels  were  a  foot  long, 
and  tlie  conformation  of  his  skull  and  facial  line  that  of  the 
alligator  or  bear.  Better  is  it  to  believe  too  much  than  too 
little.  While  men  can  believe  there  is  hope  for  them, 
superstition  may  be  changed  to  enlightened  devotion,  and 
belief  in  truth  substituted  for  belief  in  eiTor ;  but  infidelity 
is  unimprovable,  hopelessly  incurable.  Error  is  but  "  par- 
tial truth ;"  it  should  be  destroyed  only  by  the  substitution 
of  the  higher  truth.  Fetishism  is  better  than  Infidelity,  as 
Idolatry  is  better  than  Fetishism,  Mohammedanism  better 
than  Idolatry,  and  Christianity  better  than  Mohammedan- 
ism. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


geis:eral  view  of  missiostaey  opebatioxs  and  srrccESSES 

ON  THE  WEST  COAST, 

Discouragements — 1,  Disappointment — Causes  of  Disappointment  —  2, 
Ignorance  of  the  Language — 3,  AVcalincgs  of  tlie  Language — i,  Number 
of  Languages — 5,  Want  of  Capacity — 6,  Fear  of  Spirits — Y,  Polygamy 
— Opinion  of  Bisliop  Colenso — History  of  Missions — Number  of  Mis- 
sionaries, Teachers,  etc. — Grand  Results. 

The  difficulties  and  discouragements  which  meet  the  mis- 
sionary in  Africa  are  numerous — many  of  them  peculiar. 

The  missionary,  like  the  trader,  begins  his  career  under  a 
sense  of  disappointment.  But  few  white  persons,  if  any, 
find  life  in  Africa  what  they  expected  it  to  be-^  and  it  is 
common  to  hear  missionaries,  as  well  as  emigrants,  travellers, 
and  traders,  say,  that  they  were  not  correctly  informed  as 
to  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered.  Blame  is  heaped  on 
those  who  have  given  accounts  of  the  country;  and  even 
those  who  have  been  cautious  and  conscientious,  in  stating 
the  facts  of  personal  experience  and  observation,  are  accused 
of  presenting  too  bright  a  picture.  That  many  travellers 
have  written  and  spoken  recklessly,  foolishly,  about  Africa 
we  will  not  deny,  but  tliat  such  persons  as  Wilson,  Bowen, 
Foote,  and  Mrs.  Scott  have  withhold  "  unpleasant  truths," 
or  described  untruthfully,  we  cannot  admit.  Yet,  that 
emigrants,  traders,  cruisers,  and  missionaries  have  gone 
there  with  impressions  of  the  climate,  "  living,"  and  society, 
too  favorable  to  be  realized  in  the  tropics,  and  among  hear 

806 


MISSIONAIiT  OPEEATIONS  ON  THE  WEST  COAST,  307 


thens,  we  have  painfully  learned,  and  freely  confess.  Often 
have  we  heard  emigrants  from  the  southern  States  ask, 
"  why  Avas  not  all  this  told  us  before  we  left  our  homes  ?" 
And  never  can  we  forget  the  exclamation  of  an  American 
missionary  lady,  as,  wasted  by  African  fever  and  sick  at 
lieart,  she  leaned  on  my  arm  going  through  the  streets  of  a 
Grcbo  village  to  her  new  home,  seeing  sights  of  depravity 
as  we  went,  enough  to  shock  the  nerves  of  the  least  delicate, 
"  I  realize  for  the  first  lime  that  I  am  in  Africa.  The  half 
of  this  had  not  been  told  me."  The  diflSculty,  however,  is 
one  that  grows  out  of  the  subject  itself. 

To  Americans  and  English,  2)eoi>le  who  dwell  in  climates 
comparatively  rigorous,  who  associate  with  the  words 
"  summer,"  "  pei'petual  spring,"  "  constant  harvests,"  "  un- 
changing verdure,"  ideas  only  of  comfort  and  luxury,  it  is 
-  difficult,  perhaps  impossible,  to  give  clear  ideas  or  lasting 
impressions  of  the  want  and  discomfort  that  may  exist  even 
in  the  land  where  there  is  no  Avinter,  and  Avhere  the  i^alm 
tree  droppeth  continually  her  goodly  fruit.  The  writer  on 
hfe  in  Africa  may  dwell  on  the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate, 
on  the  absence  of  the  food  and  other  domestic  comforts  to 
which  civilized  men  are  accustomed,  on  the  social  deformi- 
ties and  horrid  superstitions  which  everywhere  stare  him  in 
the  face  ;  yet,  Avhen  he  has  said  that  it  is  a  land  of  summer, 
of  fruitful  hills,  and  of  valleys  teeming  Avith  richest  vegeta- 
tion, the  impression  left  in  the  mind  of  the  reader,  or  hearer, 
is  sunny,  pleasant,  and  romantic.  The  ills  described  are 
soon  forgotten  ;  but  the  "sunshine"  lives,  Avith  more  than 
African  brightness,  and  tiic  "fruits  and  floAvers  do  not  die." 
Wiicn  the  country  is  entered,  all  said  of  its  natural  beauty 
is  found  true,  and  for  a  few  days  the  sunshine  and  green 


308       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  0BSEEVATI0N8. 


VTOods  are  enjoyed;  but  soon  the  constant  lieat  becomes 
oppressive,  fruits  pall  on  the  taste,  flowers,  from  veryabim- 
dance,  cease  to  be  valued;  the  "gi-and  forest"  is  soon 
called  "the  bush,"  and  is  avoided,  because  noxious  weeds 
and  deadly  reptiles  are  there  without  number.  Then  comes 
African  fever,  dissij^ating  all  romance ;  and  in  his  delirium, 
the  sufferer  talks  of  the  ice-cool  foimtains  of  his  native  hills, 
and  the  bracing  winds  that  blow  over  the  fields  at  home. 
"With  recovery  comes  disgust  of  everything  African,  and  a 
longing  for  liome  such  as  may  never  be  overcome.  Tlien, 
with  the  thoughtless  or  impatient,  comes  the  remark,  "I 
was  deceived." 

The  evil  is,  not  that  they  were  not  warned  of  the  ills  to 
be  expected,  but  that,  true  to  the  hopefulness  of  our  nature, 
the  best  was  hoped  for  and  the  worst  unnoted.  Some  mis- 
sionaries have  gone  to  Africa  as  much  to  gratify  a  love  of 
romance  and  novelty  as  to  save  sinners  and  glorify  their 
Saviour — good  and  woilhy  persons,  too,  but  who  were  not 
sufficiently  careful,  and  self-knowng,  to  discern  the  spirit 
which  prompted  the  step.  Sucli  sink  under,  quail  before, 
the  oppi'essive  realities ;  and,  if  not  earned  off  by  the  first 
fever,  soon  return  home,  or,  what  is  worse,  remain  wliere, 
for  want  of  faith,  they  are  unsuccessful,  and  a  profitless  tax 
on  the  missionary  society.  Persons  of  this  class,  however, 
are  few.  Our  missionaries  are  generally  men  and  women 
of  sterner  stuff;  but  though  not  discouraged  by  the  evils 
we  have  mentioned,  they  have  all  felt,  more  or  less  keenly, 
the  disappointment  we  speak  of.  Even  with  the  most  sen- 
sible and  calculating  the  loss  of  home  comforts  cannot  bo 
appreciated  beforehand,  and  the  ugliness  of  heathen  society 
must  be  seen  to  be  realized. 


4 


MISSIONAET  OPEEATIONS  OX  THE  WEST  COAST.  309 


To  those  who  study  the  missionary  work  objectively,  it 
would  seem  that  the  constant  apprehension  of  death,  under 
which  white  men  on  the  coast  must  live,  presents  a  formida- 
ble opposition  to  the  progress  of  Christian  effort.  "  Who 
is  he  that  desireth  not  life  ?"  The  desire  to  live  is  natural, 
and  common  to  us  all ;  and  though  in  the  soul  enlightened 
by  divme  grace,  the  desire  to  obey  God  may  be  stronger 
than  the  desire  to  live,  the  love  of  life  prompts  a  necessary 
caution  and  fear  of  risk,  and  demands  that  the  sense  of  duty 
which  requires  dangerous  exposure  shall  be  clear  and  lui- 
questionable.  Many  who  feel  called  to  the  missionary  work 
do  not  feel  that  they  are  called  to  that  part  of  the  field  in 
which  life  is  in  imminent  peril ;  and  hence  the  greater  diffi- 
culty of  procuring  missionaries  for  western  Africa  than  for 
China  or  the  Pacific  islands. 

The  sober  and  intelligent  missionary  wno  goes  to  the 
coast,  has,  in  the  highest  sense,  the  spirit  of  the  martyrs. 
He  knows  that  the  average  life  of  the  white  man  there  is 
under  three  yeai-s  ;  when  he  enters  the  field  he  is  met  by 
disease  ;  he  sees  his  brethren  cut  down  at  his  side ;  aud  when 
he  recovers  from  what  is  called  the  acclimating  attack,  he 
goes  to  his  work  haunted  by  the  fears  of  sudden  death. 
When  we  see  intelligent  men  laboring  cheerfully  and  zeal- 
ously, amid  such  discouragements  as  these,  and  that  without 
hope  of  reward  in  this  life,  we  see  the  highest  exhibitions 
of  human  sincerity — the  noblest  examples  of  the  subordina- 
tion of  self  to  the  sense  of  duty — the  most  tangible  evidences 
of  the  power  of  religion  over  the  human  heart. 

In  prosecuting  the  missionary  Avork,  the  next  difficulty 
which  is  to  bo  encountered  is  ignorance  of  the  language. 
The  languages  of  western  Africa  are  unwritten.    By  labo- 


310        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


rious  intercourse  with  the  people,  the  missionaries  must 
learn  to  converse  ;  then  the  sounds  are  to  be  reduced  to 
writing,  in  the  English  characters ;  rules  of  syntax  are  to  be 
elaborated  ;  and,  alas,  when  all  this  is  done,  the  people  are 
still  to  be  taught  to  read  their  own  tongue.  When  teachers 
and  pupils  have  learned  to  communicate  freely,  orally  and 
by  writing,  another  difficulty  presents  itself;  the  language 
has  no  words  to  express  the  ideas  of  Christianity ;  terms  are 
to  be  invented  and  then  explained.  Here  commences  the 
great  work.  How  shall  the  teacher  begin  ?  The  people  have 
never  been  taught  to  reason.  Their  processes  of  thought 
are  entirely  different  from  his  own.  His  arguments  are  to 
them  nonsense,  and  may  be  set  aside  by  the  revelations  of  a 
witch,  or  the  authority  of  a  tradition.  He  finds  with  them 
no  common  ground  of  clearly-defined  belief ;  and  learns,  by 
sad  experience,  that  the  intellect  must  be  developed  and 
trained,  before  it  is  capable  of  receiving  the  simplest  truths 
of  the  Christian  religion.  Hence  the  schoolmaster  must  pro- 
cede  the  preacher. 

Time  was  when  it  was  thought  that  on  presenting,  by 
preaching,  the  reasonableness  of  the  truths  of  Christianity, 
the  heathens  would  be  converted.  Too  much  of  this  idea 
still  remains ;  but  missionaries  are  learning,  by  the  useless- 
ness  of  mere  preacliing,  that  it  requires  a  long  and  tedious 
process  of  instruction  and  mental  discijjUne  to  bring  African 
heathens  to  the  capacity  to  receive  Christian  truth.  There- 
fore, as  it  should  have  been  from  the  first,  children  rather 
than  adults  become  the  object  of  the  missionaries'  care. 
The  school-liousc  is  built  before  the  church,  and  step  by  step 
as  the  teacher  advances  the  preacher  follows. 

The  number  of  African  languages  is  a  serious  hindrance. 


MISSIONAKT  0PEEATI0N3  ON  THE  WEST  COAST.  311 


Five  or  six  of  the  languages  of  the  coast  have  beea  mastered 
by  white  men  and  reduced  to  writing,  but  these  f,erve  only 
the  tribes  speaking  such  languages ;  the  neighboring  tribes 
must  remain  in  darkness  until  the  same  work  has  been  done 
for  them  also.  A  few  tribes  have  heard,  and  many  more 
doubtless  will  hear,  in  their  own  tongues  the  Gospel  of  life ; 
but  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  EngUsh  language  is  the  grand 
inedium  through  which  Christianity  is  to  be  taught  in 
western  Africa.  The  English  is  destined  to  become,  and 
that  shortly,  the  language  of  the  people  on  the  coast  north 
of  the  equator.  It  is  now  the  language  of  the  colonics  at 
tlie  Gambia,  Sierra  Leone,  and  other  stations  on  the  Gold 
Coast ;  also  of  the  rajiidly  growing  rcijublic  of  Liberia. 
Great  Britain,  we  think,  will  at  no  distant  day  extend  her 
rule  over  all  that  part  of  the  coast  lying  between  the  Niger 
and  the  Gambia,  except  the  territory  of  Liberia ;  and  with 
British  rule  will  go  the  English  language.  Mohammedan- 
ism was  spread  in  Africa  through  the  Arabic ;  why  may 
not  Protestant  Christianity  be  spread,  and  in  an  equally 
short  time,  through  the  English  tongue,  its  most  perfect 
and  approved  vehicle  ? 

In  the  religious  ideas  of  the  people,  the  fear  of  witches 
and  evil  spirits  j'rescnts  the  most  formidable  obstacle  to  the 
missionaries.  Not  unfrequently  they  see  a  youth  educated 
at  the  schools,  baptized,  and  perhaps  professing  religion, 
turning  to  the  heathenism  of  his  fathers  for  fear  of  offending 
the  spirit  of  an  ancestor.  Mr.  Cruiksliank  relates  that  Mr. 
II.,  who  for  forty  years  officiated  as  chaplain  at  the  garrison 
of  Cape  Coast,  resorted  to  witchcraft  in  his  last  hours.  But 
the  Africans  are  not  alone  in  the  belief  and  fear  of  super- 
natural beings  other  than  those  revealed  by  the  Bible. 


312       PERSONAL  ABVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


That  some  turn  back  to  heathenism  is  sometimes  urged 
as  an  argument  against  the  usefulness  of  missions.  The 
same  argument  would  apply  against  Christianity  at  home. 
But  in  the  African  missions  the  number  of  such  backsliders 
is  fewer  than  is  commonly  reported ;  and  considering  the 
influences  which  surroimd  the  converts,  the  wonder  is  that 
they  are  so  few. 

Of  all  the  institutions,  civil  or  domestic,  polygamy  is  the 
most  formidable  to  Christianity.  John  W.  Colenso,  Lord 
Bishop  of  the  diocese  of  Natal,  South  Africa,  in  a  work  re- 
cently published,*  advances  the  flxct,  that  in  South  Africa 
the  jjrogrcss  of  Christianity  has  been  delayed  by  the  refusal 
of  clergymen  to  baptize  persons  having  more  than  one  wife, 
and  advances  the  idea  that  it  would  be  well  for  ministers  to 
yield  so  far  to  the  prevailing  custom  as  to  baptize  and  ad- 
mit to  communion  such  persons  as  may  be  converted  while 
having  many  wives.  The  Protestant  missionaries  in  Africa, 
south  and  west,  have  denovmced  the  bishop's  idea  on  this 
subject,  as  imsound  scrij)turally,  and  full  of  c^^l  practically, 
and  among  the  objectors  none  are  more  loud  than  the  in- 
telligent converts.  Christ  hath  no  concord  with  Belial ; 
and  though  the  polygamous  nations  should  be  lost,  we  have 
no  right  to  compromise  his  religion  with  heathenism.  The 
bishop's  opinion,  however,  is  not  without  advocates ;  but 
they  are  generally  irreligious  persons,  or  Christians  who 
have  not  weighed  the  bearings  of  the  question.  It  is  said 
by  missionaries  of  his  own  church  that  the  bisliop  himself 
was  of  this  last-named  class. 

We  have  thus  hastily  referred  to  what  Ave  consider  the 

*  "  Ten.  Weeks  in  Natal,"  (Soutli  AlVica). — Cambridge :  Macmillan  &  Co. 


MISSIONAET  OPEEATIOITS  ON  THE  "WEST  COAST.  313 

strongest  of  the  many  circumstances  which  opi^ose  the  pro- 
gress of  Christianity  in  Africa.  We  now  propose  to  show, 
in  a  few  words,  that  despite  these  oppositions,  missionary 
labor  is  producing  much  good  fruit. 

The  history  of  evangeUzation  in  western  Africa  begins 
with  the  present  century.  The  year  1800  found  a  few  mis- 
sionaries on  the  coast,  of  the  Lutheran,  English  Baptist, 
Episcopahan,  and  Wesleyan  Methodist  churches  ;  but  these 
should  be  regarded  rather  as  forerunners,  or  surveyors  of 
the  land,  than  as  missionaries.  With  Rev.  J.  L.  Wilson, 
Mr.  Cruikshank,  and  the  English  Methodist  Missionary  and 
Church  Reports  before  us,  we  give  the  following  as  ap- 
proaching a  reliable  summary  of  the  history  and  state  of 
the  more  important  missions  now  in  Africa.  The  English 
Baptist  Missionary  Society  sent  out  its  first  missionaries 
(two  to  Sierra  Leone)  in  1794.  The  Missionary  Societies 
of  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  and  London,  sent  out  each  two 
missionaries  in  1757.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  (Eng- 
lish) sent  out  two  missionaries  in  1804.  The  Wesleyan 
Methodist  Church  established  its  African  mission  at  Sieri*a 
Leone  in  1811,  on  the  Gold  Coast  in  1835,  and  on  the  Gam- 
bia in  1820.  The  Basle  Missionary  Society  sent  out  two  mis- 
sionaries to  Elmina  in  1828.  The  Presbyterian  Board  of 
Foreign  Missions  (American)  sent  out  two  missionaries  in 
18.33.  The  first  missionary  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  (American)  landed  in  Africa  in  1833.  The  Meudi 
Mission  (American  Missionary  Association)  was  established 
in  1841.  The  Southern  Baptist  Board  sent  out  its  first  mis- 
sionary to  Yoruba  in  1849.  Most  of  these  missions  have 
been  in  active  operation,  increasing  in  strength  and  useful- 
ness, ever  since. 

14 


314:        PKKSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AXD  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  following  tabular  statement,  gathered  from  mission- 
aries in  the  field  and  other  reliable  som'ces,  will  give  an 
idea  of  the  present  forces  and  successes  on  the  West  Coast. 
Wesleyan  Methodist  (English)  :  missionaries,  20 ;  local 
preachers,  75;  school  teachers,  160;  members,  18,000; 
school  children,  5,000.  Church  Mission  (English)  :  mis- 
sionaries and  native  assistants,  many  of  whom  are  ordained, 
120;  teachers,  200 ;  communicants,  3,000  ;  scholars,  6,000. 
Methodist  Episcopal  Mission  (American)  :  missionaries, 
23 ;  teachers,  22  ;  members,  1,400 ;  scholars,  850.  Baptist 
Mission  (American) :  missionaries,  23  ;  teachei's,  20  ;  mem- 
bers, 700 ;  scholars,  500.  Presbyterian  Mission  (American) : 
missionaries,  25  ;  communicants,  150 ;  scholars,  200.  Epis- 
copal Mission  (American):  missionaries,  13;  teachers,  27; 
communicants,  250  ;  scholars,  550.  English  Baptist  Mis- 
sion:  missionaries,  6;  teachers,  15;  members,  130;  scho- 
lars, 300.  Basle  Society  (German  Lutheran)  :  missionaries, 
3 ;  members,  40 ;  scholars,  400.  American  Association 
Mission  (Mendi  Mission) :  missionaries,  17 ;  members,  100; 
scholars,  150.  Scotcli  Presbyterian  (United  Secession)  Mis- 
sion :  missionaries,  15.  Total  number  of  communicants, 
23,770.  Total  number  of  scholars,  many  of  whom  are  learn- 
ing trades,  13,950.  Where,  in  the  history  of  Pi'otestant 
Christian  Missions,  can  we  find  results  to  equal  these  ? 
How  grand  are  they  Avhen  Ave  consider  the  oppositions 
before  which  they  have  been  achieved  ! 

When  we  add  to  the  above  the  15,000  converts,  and  the 
15,000  school  children  under  care  of  Wesleyan,  Independ- 
ent, Episcopalian,  Presbyterian,  French  Protestant,  German 
Protestant,  and  Moravian  Missionaries  in  South  Africa,  what 
grounds  has  tlie  church  for  encouragement ;  and  how  are 


MISSIONAEY  OPERATIONS  ON  THE  WEST  COAST.  315 


the  doubts  of  the  fearful,  and  the  sneers  of  the  skeptic,  re- 
garding the  success  of  Christianity  in  Africa,  hushed  into 
silence  before  the  jubilant  hallelujahs  of  this  blood-washed 
throng ! 

"  Ethiopia  shall  stretch  forth  her  hands  unto  God,"  saith 
the  sure  word  of  prophecy ;  and  to-day  is  that  Scripture 
fulfilled  in  our  eyes.  In  agony  of  intense  desire  she  stretch- 
eth  forth  her  hands  to  heaven  and  to  men  for  the  bread  of 
life ;  and  from  the  borders  of  the  Great  Desert  to  the 
Southern  Cape,  from  the  Niger  to  the  Mozambique,  the 
many-voiced  want-cry  of  a  despised  and  neglected  race,  a 
race  hitherto  dead  but  now  struggling  into  life,  waxes 
louder  and  louder. 

The  day  dawns  already  when  the  vision  of  an  uninspired 
prophet  shall  be  realized  by  triumphant  millions : 

"  And  Afric's  dusky  swarms, 
That  from  Morocco  to  Angola  dwelt, 
And  drank  the  Niger  from  his  native  wells, 
Or  roused  the  lion  in  Numidia's  groves  ; 
The  tribes  that  sat  among  the  fabled  cliffs 
Of  Atlas,  looking  to  Atlanta's  wave. 
With  joy  and  melody  arose  and  came ; 
Zara  awoke  and  came ;  and  Egypt  came, 
Casting  her  idols  into  the  Nile. 
Black  Ethiopia,  that,  shadowless, 
Beneath  the  Torrid  burned,  rose  and  came. 
Daunia  and  Medra,  and  the  pirate  tribes 
Of  Algeri,  with  incense  came,  and  pure 
Offcrinss,  annnvJn"  now  the  seas  no  more." 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


CRUISING    AND  CRUISEKS. 

Object  of  maintaining  an  African  Squadron — Treaty  of  Washington— 
Want  of  Cooperation — Abuses  of  the  American  Flag — Reasons  for 
Continuing  the  African  Squadron — Its  Increase  demanded — Com- 
plaints of  want  of  Protection  from  our  Citizens  in  Africa — Objections 
to  the  Maintenance  of  the  Squadron  answered — ^Unpopularity  of  the 
Station  and  Why. 

That  the  navy  department,  executing  the  pleasure  of  the 
President,  has  since  1843  kept  a  force  of  ainied  vessels, 
called  "The  African  Squadron,"  on  the  waters  of  the 
west  coast  of  Africa,  is  generally  known  to  our  citizens,  but 
the  business  of  such  squadron  is  not  so  well  understood. 
The  objects  sought  to  be  accomplished  may  be  stated  as 
follows :  To  comply  with  a  compact  entered  into  with 
Great  Britain. 

To  suppress  the  slave-trade,  and  all  other  forms  of  illegal 
traffic  and  piracy,  attempted  to  be  carried  on  in  those  seas 
under  cover  of  the  American  flag. 

To  protect  American  commerce  and  American  citizens 
on  the  West  Coast. 

To  extend  our  knowledge  of  physical  geography,  meteor- 
ology, and  anything  else  that  may  be  of  scientific  or  com- 
mercial value. 

The  treaty  knowm  as  the  "Treaty  of  Washington"  was 
ratified  in  August,  1842.  We  select  the  following  from 
the  Preamble  and  Articles  for  the  benefit  of  such  readers  as 

816 


CEUISENG  AND  CEUISEES. 


317 


may  not  have  access  to  that  document  "  Whereas 

the  traffic  in  slaves  is  irreconcilable  with  the  principles  of 
humanity  and  justice:  and  whereas  both  Her  Majesty  and 
the  United  States  are  desirous  of  continuing  their  efforts 
for  its  entii'e  abolition,  it  is  hereby  agreed  that  both  the 
contracting  parties  shall  use  their  best  endeavors  to  accom- 
plish so  desirable  an  object,"  etc.,  etc. 

"  Article  8. — The  parties  mutually  stipulate  that  each 
prepare,  equip,  and  maintain  in  service  on  the  coast  of 
Africa,  a  sufficient  and  adequate  squadron,  or  naval  force 
of  vessels,  of  suitable  numbers  and  descriptions,  to  carry  in 
all  not  less  than  eighty  guns — to  enforce,  separately  and 
respectively,  the  laws,  rights  and  obligations  of  each  of  the 
two  countries,  for  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade ;  the 
said  squadrons  to  be  independent  of  each  other ;  but  the 
two  governments  stipulating,  nevertheless,  to  give  such 
orders  to  the  officers  commanding  their  respective  forces  as 
shall  enable  them  most  effectually  to  act  in  concert  and 
cooperation,  upon  mutual  consultation,  as  exigencies  may 
arise,  for  the  attainment  of  the  true  object  of  this  article," 
etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

"  Article  9. — Whereas,  notwithstanding  all  efforts 
which  may  be  made  on  the  coast  of  Africa  for  suppressing 
the  slave-trade,  the  facilities  for  carrying  on  that  traffic, 
and  avoiding  the  vigilance  of  cruisers,  by  the  fraudulent  use 
of  flags  and  other  means,  are  so  great,  and  the  temptation 
for  pursuing  it,  while  a  market  can  be  found  for  slaves,  so 
strong,  as  that  the  desired  result  may  be  long  delayed, 
unless  all  markets  be  shut  against  the  purchaser  of  African 
negroes ;  the  parties  to  this  treaty  agree  that  tliey  will 
unite  in  all  becoming  representations  and  remonstrances, 


318        PERSON ADVENTUEE3  XSD  OBSERVATIONS. 


"with  any  and  all  powers  within  -nhose  dominions  such 
markets  are  allowed  to  exist ;  and  that  they  will  urge  upon 
all  such  powers  the  propriety  and  duty  of  closing  s>ich  mar- 
kets effectually,  at  once  and  forever." 

So  far  as  the  letter  of  this  treaty  is  concerned,  it  has  not 
been  carried  out.  Sometimes  our  force  on  the  coast  has 
been  less  than  eighty  guns,  at  other  times  more :  and  the 
conjoint  cruising  has  been  from  the  first,  in  spirit  and 
letter,  dead.  It  is  hardly  worth  while  to  inquire  upon 
which  party  the  greater  blame  rests  in  the  non-fulfillment 
of  this  pro^-ision  ;  but  it  is  certainly  true,  that  the  object 
of  the  treaty  could  be  better  carried  out  by  a  hearty  and 
well-understood  cooperation  of  the  American  and  English 
squadrons.  The  prevailing  indifference  on  this  subject  may 
be  seen  by  the  following  statement :  The  flagships  of  the 
American  and  British  squadrons  on  the  coast  in  the  years 
1855,  1856,  and  part  of  1857,  met  but  once,  and  that  at  sea. 
They  were  two  miles  apart ;  they  recognized  each  other  by 
signal,  and  by  the  same  means  held  the  following  communi- 
cation : 

"  Anything  to  communicate  ?" 

Answer — "  Nothing  to  communicate." 

This  was  the  amount  of  the  cooperation,  so  far  as  wo 
were  informed,  that  occurred  during  those  years.  The 
comment  of  an  Irish  sailor  who  stood  in  the  gangway  of  our 
ship  Avhile  the  signalizing  was  going  on,  M'as  very  much  to 
the  point :  "  Ocli,  the  divel !  he  might  as  well  have  said 
nothing  at  all  at  all." 

Commander  Foote,  of  the  U.  S.  navy,  while  in  command 
of  the  brig  Perry,  on  the  coast,  found  the  English  officers 
quite  disposed  to  cooperate  with  liim  ;  and  so  far  as  he  had 


CRtnSING  AND  CRUtSERS. 


319 


authority,  carried  oat  the  jirovisions  of  the  treaty  in  thLs 
respect.  That  gentleman,  deserves  much  credit  for  the 
number  of  illegal  traders  cajitured  by  him,  jmd  for  the 
amount  of  information  valuable  to  American  interests  which 
he  gathered  while  on  that  station. 

Conjoint  cruising  of  English  and  American  war-vessels  is 
demanded  by  the  position  which,  as  a  nation,  we  haA'e 
assumed  regarding  the  "  right  of  search,"  Taking  advan- 
tage of  what  we  demand  on  this  subject,  and  what,  out  of 
respect  to  our  power  and  the  fear  of  offending  i;s,  other 
nations  will  grant,  any  pirate,  or  illegal  trader,  may'  escape 
arrest  by  British,  or  other  cruisers,  simply  by  carrying  at 
his  peak  or  masthead  an  American  flag.  Indeed  it  has 
been  the  habit  of  illegal  traders  of  other  nations,~while  on 
the  coast  and  in  the  vicinity  of  English  or  French  men-of- 
war,  to  carry  the  American  flag,  and  by  this  means  avoid  a 
search  which  would  discover  the  real  objects  of  their 
pursuit.  In  the  presence  of  an  American  man-of-war,  the 
same  traders  would  bear  Eughsh  colors,  and  thus  escape  all 
the  officers  of  justice.  Conjoint  cruising  would  nonj^lus  such 
proceeding ;  for  if  the  suspected  vessel  showed  American 
colors,  she  would  be  searched  by  the  American  officers; 
if  British,  or  any  other  colors,  by  the  British  officers. 

Observations  on  the  abuses  of  our  flag  in  Africa,  have  led 
us  to  the  opinion  that  we  are  in  error  in  demandmg  that 
vessels  bearing  our  flag  shall  everywhere  be  exempt  from 
search  by  British  and  other  cruisers.  It  resolves,  practi- 
cally, into  this,  that  every  trader  who  invests  seventy-five 
cents  in  bunting,  figured  into  stars  and  stripes,  and  floats  it 
from  liis  masthead,  may  claim  American  nationality,  and 
immunity  from  search  on  the  high  seas.    Wo  have  too  pro- 


320        PERSONAL  ADVENTtTKES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


found  a  veneration  for  this  emblem  of  our  nation's  existence 
and  honor,  to  be  willing  to  see  it  prostituted  to  the  base 
purposes  which  have  been  enacted,  under  its  fair  folds. 
Our  position  would  be  appropriate,  and  demanded  by  self- 
respect,  if  the  nationality  of  vessels  could  be  indubitably 
ascertained  without  boarding ;  and  provided  that  we  had  a 
sufficient  naval  force  on  every  sea  to  which  our  commerce 
extends  to  see  that  our  flag  should  be  used  to  cover  only 
lawful  commerce.  But  as  nationality  is  not  so  easily  ascer- 
tained, and  as  our  naval  force  is  small— very  small  as  com- 
pared with  our  commerce — and  inadequate  to  the  super- 
vision demanded,  would  it  not  be  well  for  us  so  far  to 
qualify  our  position  as  to  permit  vessels  bearing  the  Ameri- 
can flag  on  the  seas  of  the  African  coast,  and  on  other 
waters  frequented  by  illegal  and  piratical  traders,  to  be 
visited  by  the  cruisers  of  other  nations,  and  searched,  when 
suspicion  may  exist  as  to  the  genuineness  of  the  nationality 
claimed. 

We  have  it  in  our  power  now  to  withdraw  from  the 
terms  of  this  compact,  so  far  as  the  keej^ing  of  a  squadron 
on  this  coast  is  concerned,  or  to  increase  or  diminish  our 
forces  there,  provided,  that  in  case  of  Avithdrawal  of  the 
squadron,  due  notice  be  given  to  her  majesty's  government. 
But  though  we  should  cease  to  acknowledge  the  obligation 
of  the  treaty  as  an  object  in  maintaining  our  African  squad- 
ron, the  second,  and  more  important  object,  remains  to  be 
met,  namely,  the  suppi'ession  of  the  slave-trade  between 
Africa  and  America. 

As  early  as  1V42,  the  governor  and  the  provincial  legis- 
lature of  Virginia  pronounced  the  importation  of  slaves 
from  the  coast  of  Africa  "a  trade  of  great  inhumanity," 


CRTnsnsG  A^^)  cRriSEES. 


321 


and  dangerous  "  to  the  very  existence  of  the  Dominions." 
From  that  day  until  the  present,  the  opinion  has  been  gain- 
ing ground,  at  the  North  and  at  the  South,  that4;he  trade  is 
one  in  which  a  humane,  an  enlightened,  and  a  respected 
nation  should  not  condescend  to  deal.  Whatever  may 
be  said  of  the  humanity  or  inhumanity  of  this  trade  in 
its  early  history,  cei-tain  it  is,  that  for  many  years  past  it 
has  been  carried  on  under  conditions  which  made  it  the 
cause  of  innumerable  murders,  and  immeasurable  suffering 
to  an  unoffending  and  a  defenceless  race. 

It  is,  moreover,  believed  by  a  vast  body  of  intelligent  and 
truly  patriotic  citizens  of  the  South,  that  the  influx,  in  any 
considerable  numbers,  of  savage  Africans  into  the  southern 
States  would  be  dangerous  to  the  institutions  of  those 
States,  and  in  portions  of  them  dangerous  to  the  existence 
of  the  white  race.  To  meet  the  demands  prompted  by 
these  sentiments,  at  once  Christian  and  patriotic,  the  chief 
executive  is  required  to  keep  a  naval  force  on  the  coast  of 
Africa  to  intercept  the  reckless  speculators,  fitted  out  at 
Boston  and  Xew  York,  who,  in  defiance  of  the  laws  of 
nations  and  humanity,  would  enrich  themselves  in  this  evil- 
brooding  trade. 

Since  entering  on  its  mission,  the  African  squadron  has 
done  much  for  the  suppression  of  this  traffic.  More  might 
have  been  done  Avith  the  same  force,  had  it  been  distributed 
in  smaller  vessels,  and  had  tlie  cruises  been  made  shorter, 
our  ships  have  been  too  heavy  to  enter  the  rivers ;  and 
knowing  that  lie  had  to  remain  two  and  a  half  or  three 
years  on  the  station,  the  cruiser  avoided  the  shore  as  much 
as  possible.  The  French  and  English  employ  small  steam- 
ers for  this  work  ;  and  hence  their  greater  display  of  activity 

14* 


322       PERSONAL  ADVENTCTEES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


in  capturing  slavers  and  extending  protection  and  aid  to 
lawful  traders.  In  1856,  the  English  squadron  Avas  com- 
posed of  twenty-one  vessels,  eighteen  of  which  were  steam- 
ers. The  Hon.  Secretary  of  the  United  States  navy  has 
lately  ordered  three  steamers  to  the  coast,  which  will  add 
much  to  the  eflBciency  of  our  squadron  there. 

The  American  African  squadron  should  be  largely  in- 
creased :  four,  or  even  five  vessels  are  not  enough ;  and  this 
increase  is  demanded  by  the  increase  of  American  com- 
merce. As  the  slave-trade  decreases,  lawful  commerce 
increases ;  and  if,  by  universal  consent,  the  slave-trade 
should  cease  to-morrow,  the  increase  of  our  squadron  would 
still  be  demanded  for  the  protection  of  our  vessels  and  citi- 
zens. Complaint  is  made  by  our  citizens  on  the  coast,  and 
not  without  cause,  that  they  suffer  many  annoyances  which 
would  not  occur  were  they  visited  more  frequently  by 
American  men-of-Avar.  The  Africans  have  a  wholesome 
dread  of  great  guns  and  the  bayonets  of  marines.  We  have 
been  told  often,  by  traders,  that  American  vessels  on  the 
coast  are  constantly  receiving  assistance  from  English  men- 
of-war  such  as  should  be  furnished  by  our  own.  This  seem- 
ing neglect  does  not  grow  out  of  the  indifference  of  our 
government  to  the  lives  and  property  of  its  citizens  abroad, 
as  is  often  intimated,  but  is  owing  to  the  smallness  of  our 
squadron  on  the  coast,  and  the  inefficiency  of  the  ships  (not 
the  officers)  appointed  to  that  station.  When  Congress 
puts  steamers  enough  at  the  disposal  of  the  President  to 
meet  the  wants  of  our  foreign  commerce,  he  will  likely  put 
some  of  them  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  Until  then  our  citi- 
zens must  be  thankful  for  small  flvvors,  and  for  the  rest 
trust  to  good  luck  and  kind  neighbors. 


CKCISING  AKD  CKUISEES. 


323 


Many  objections  have  been  made,  of  late,  to  the  main- 
tenance of  a  squadron  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  We  have 
heard  these  objections  as  i)resentedby  the  extreme  political 
parties  of  the  North  and  the  South — the  abolitionist  Xorth, 
and  extremist  South — and  are  still  at  a  loss  for  an  objection 
to  the  maintenance  of  an  armed  naval  force  on  the  coast  of 
Africa  that  wiU  not  equally  apply  to  the  maintenance  of 
every  squadron  vre  have,  except  that  which  guards  our  ovnx 
shores.  "  The  expense  of  this  squadron  "  is  dwelt  upon. 
It  is  great — $250,000  annually ;  but  this  is  less  than  that  of 
any  other  foreign  squadron.  "The  great  mortality  among 
officers  and  men  "  is  complained  of:  but  this  is  less,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  number  of  men  employed,  than  that  of  any 
other  squadron  excei^tone.  But  though  the  expenses  were 
ten  times  greater,  they  should  be  met,  if  the  honor  of  the 
American  nation,  or  the  interests  of  American  commerce, 
demand  it.  It  will  be  time  enough  for  our  citizens  of  the 
interior  to  complain  of  the  unhealthincss  of  that  station 
when  the  men  engaged  in  the  service  complain  of  it.  This 
they  have  not  done  yet ;  nor  do  they  thank  their  country 
friends  for  doing  it  for  them.  Health  and  personal  comfort 
are  but  secondary  considerations  with  the  American  naval 
officer  when  duty  is  in  question.  If  the  honor  of  his  flag, 
or  the  interests  of  his  nation  require  his  services  on  the 
coast  of  Africa,  he  will  not  stop  to  ask  is  it  healthy  ?  And 
to  ask  such  a  question  for  him,  would  be  a  reflection  on  his 
honor  and  courage.  If  our  government  has  pronounced 
the  slave-trade  piracy  (and  she  was  the  first  among  the 
nations  to  do  this),  she  should  maintain  an  armed  force  for 
its  suppression,  or  recede  from  that  position.  If  we  have 
commerce  with  Africa,  and  citizens  resident  there  engaged 


324        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


in  lawful  pursuits,  they  certainly  deserve  protection.  And, 
be  it  remembered,  we  have  yet  to  contribute  our  quota  of 
scientific  labor  to  the  navigation  of  those  shores.  Com- 
merce, mission  and  colonial  establishments,  nay,  the  cause 
of  civilization  and  Christianity  in  Africa,  are  largely  depend- 
ent on  the  maintenance  and  efficiency  of  the  American 
African  squadron. 

We  suggest  to  our  trading  friends,  that  their  constant 
complaining  of  the  inefficiency  of  the  squadron  is  not  politic. 
Better  occasional  assistance  than  none  at  aU. 

And  we  would  remind  the  imprudent  friends  of  coloniza- 
tion and  missions,  who,  for  the  purpose  of  lauding  their  own 
schemes,  are  given  to  commenting  on  the  expensiveness  of 
armed  forces  to  suppress  the  slave-trade  and  encourage 
commerce,  and  the  superiority  of  the  "  peace  system"  over 
that  of  force,  that  to  the  African  squadron  our  missions  and 
colonies  in  Africa  are  indebted  for  their  existence.  "With- 
draw the  armed  forces,  and  a  single  twelvemonth  would 
witness  the  destruction  of  every  benevolent  institution  on 
the  West  Coast,  except  those  of  Liberia ;  and  indeed  the 
destruction  of  that  nation  would  be  only  a  question  of  time. 

The  African  station  is  not  popular  with  navy  officers. 
Not  that  it  is  feared — wc  have  no  such  word  as  fear  in  our 
vocabulary — but  because  of  its  expensiveness,  the  long  iji- 
tervals  of  "  news  from  home,"  and  the  monotony  of  the 
cruiser's  life  there.  Tlic  notion  prevails  extensively,  that 
navy  officers  are  provided,  on  ship-board,  with  furnished 
apartments,  comfortable  fare,  wmes  included !  and  uniform. 
Alas !  that  it  is  not  so.  And  that  it  is  not  so,  the  lean 
purse  of  the  African  cruiser  will  testify.  Most  of  the  pro- 
visions consumed  in  the  officers'  messes  are  such  as  have 


CKUISIKG  A2a)  CRTTISEES. 


325 


been  \mt  up  in  America,  and,  by  the  time  they  reach  them, 
the  plainest  fare  is  high  living  in  point  of  price.  Afiican 
markets  are  not  abundant  in  such  edibles  as  white  men  use. 
Baked  bats  are  very  good,  no  doubt,  but  they  are  not 
attractive  to  the  American  taste.  Panots  are  said  to  be 
"  delicate,"  but  what  cannibal  could  eat  a  thing  that  says 
its  prayers  like  a  Christian,  and  screams  "  remember  poor 
Polly "  with  its  dying  breath.  A  boiled  monkey  might 
look  very  well  to  Dean  Swift,  whose  mouth  could  water  at 
the  thought  of  "  baked  baby,"  but  for  myself,  I  should  feel 
more  like  reading  the  funeral  service  over  such  a  dish 
than  dining  on  it.  The  fruits  are  good,  but  will  not  keep 
at  sea.  Pigs  and  poultry  may  be  obtained  at  the  large 
towns,  but  seldom  in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply  all  the 
messes.  Then  such  pigs !  Shades  of  Cincinnati  porkers 
get  up !  Lank  and  lean  as  ill-fed  grey-hounds,  savage  and 
untamable  as  hyenas,  they  do  for  neither  cooking  nor  keep- 
ing. The  hens  are  good — very  good ;  but  it  is  a  moral 
rather  than  a  muscular  goodness.  They  are,  generally, 
sober-looking  old  matrons,  that  have  become  lean  in  pro- 
viding for  other  generations ;  they  become  home-sick,  or 
sea-sick,  on  ship-board,  and  for  want  of  the  inspiring  notes 
of  their  own  chanticleer  soon  depart  this  life.  You  may  be 
sure,  delicate  reader,  that  such  faded  cacklers  make  foul 
pies. 

After  filling  up  with  stores  and  water  at  the  U.  S.  store- 
house in  the  Cape  Verd  Islands,  at  which  place  is  the  post- 
office  for  the  station,  the  cruiser  runs  over  to  the  coast,  and 
proceeds  along  shore,  touching  at  the  principal  towns,  and 
boarding  such  American  vessels  as  he  may  meet  until  he 
reaches  St.  Paul,  Loando,  or  St.  Philip,  Benguela;  then  ho 


326 


PEESONAI,  ADVENTURES  AJSTD  OBSERVATIONS. 


returns  to  the  Cajoe  Verds.  This  cruise  generally  occupies 
four  months — months  of  monotonous  duty,  tedious  same- 
ness of  scenery,  for  all  African  towns  are  alike  in  general 
character,  ennui,  and  debility  from  the  heat ;  and  all  this 
without  news  from  home.  Then  hours  move  on  leaden 
wings ;  time,  precious  time,  is  felt  to  be  a  burden,  and  with 
its  anxieties  hangs  heavily  on  the  heart.  Often  would  the 
African  cruiser,  on  waking  from  a  dream  of  home,  Avillingly 
consent  to  wipe  out  from  the  number  of  his  days  the  weeks 
which  keep  him  from  the  desired  haven  where  messages  of 
love  may  greet  him. 

In  memory  we  are  there  now,  and  live  again  the  dead 
life  of  the  tropical  calms.  But  time,  that  waits  for  none, 
will  speed  for  none.  The  equator  must  be  crossed  and  re- 
crossed,  storms  encountered  and  calms  endured,  days  and 
nights  of  rocking  and  plunging  on  the  dreary  sea,  coimted 
by  the  score  ;  but  we  shall  make  the  Cape  Verds  at  last ; 
the  English  steamer,  strong  and  faithful,  like  the  nation  she 
rejjresents,  will  heave  in  sight ;  the  American  mails  Avill  be 
opened,  and  we  shall  hear,  with  palpitating  hearts,  "  letters 
for  you."  In  the  meantime,  thank  God  for  dreams.  They 
bring  the  jDattering  of  littlo  feet,  and  the  forms  of  loved 
ones,  and  caresses  of  pure  affection,  to  the  saUor's  pillow 
and  the  sailor's  heart. 


CHAPTER  XXX, 


CAPE    VEBD  ISLANDS. 

The  Cape  Vcrd  Islands — Origin — Droughts — ^Population— Climate — Mayo 
— Boavista  —  Sal  —  Fuego  —  San  Vincent  —  Porto  Grande — American 
Graveyard — San  Antonio— Brava  —  St.  Jago — Porto  Praya — Untold 
Incidents— Uoraeward  Bound — The  U.  S.  Steamer  Jamestown — Home 
Again — Adieu. 

The  Cape  Vcrd  Islands,  situate  between  14°  48'  and  1V° 
12'  N.  lat.,  and  22°  43'  and  25°  23'  W.  long.,  have  been 
long  and  favorably  known  to  the  seafaring  and  commercial 
men  of  Europe  and  America,  as  a  half-way  house,  or  cara- 
vanserai on  the  seas,  between  the  ports  of  Europe  and  South 
America,  and  those  of  America  and  Africa.  They  are  visited 
frequently  also  by  the  homoward-bound  Indiameu  of  Great 
Britain,  and  by  American  whalers.  In  later  years  they  have 
obtained  some  notoriety  as  being  the  rendezvous  of  the 
American  African  Squadron. 

The  group  (sometimes,  but  incorrectly,  called  the  "Cape  de 
Verdes  Islands")  takes  its  name  from  Cape  Verd  on  the  oppo- 
site coast,  400  miles  distant,  and  was  discovered  in  the  year 
1450  by  Antonio  Noli,  a  Genoese  in  the  service  of  the  prince  of 
Portugal.  The  inhabited  islands  arc  ten,  namely :  St.  Jago, 
Sal,  Boavista  (generally  called  Bonavista),  Mayo,  Fuego, 
or  Fogo,  Brava,  St.  Nicholas,  St.  Vincent,  St.  Antonio,  and 
Branco.  Besides  these  there  are  several  islets,  barren  and 
without  inhabitants,  remarkable  only  as  the  resort  of  fisher- 
men and  sea-birds,  and  for  the  grotesque  beauty  of  their 

827 


328        PEKSONAL  ADVENTTJKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


dark  cliffs  and  foam-laslied  sbores,  and  the  ■well-character- 
ized types  of  their  geological  formations.  These  islands  are 
all  of  volcanic  origin  ;  the  fruit,  no  doubt,  of  the  same  sub- 
terraneous throes  which  gave  the  Madeiras  and  Canaries 
to  the  superaqueous  world.  There  are,  however,  abundant 
evidences  of  distinct  and  well-marked  periods  of  elevation, 
widely  separated  from  each  other,  the  last  of  which  may  be 
referred  to  a  comparatively  recent  disturbance.  The  bold 
cliffs,  and  wind-denuded  peaks  and  mountain  sides,  reveal 
perpendicular  dikes  of  volcanic  breccia,  protrusions  of  green 
stone,  and  beds  of  secondary  limestone.  In  outUne  these 
islands  are  wildly  jagged ;  in  surface,  everywhere  uneven ; 
but  few  of  their  tortuous  valleys  contain  any  verdure,  and 
the  mountains  are  generally  without  trees  or  even  shrubs. 
M.  Xoli  must  have  called  them  Verde  for  the  reason  that 
they  were  not  green.  The  soil  is  a  well-decomposed  tufa, 
and  when  duly  watered  yields  most  abundantly  the  fruits 
and  grains  of  the  tropics ;  but  alas  !  they  have  no  rivers,  no 
"  fountains  abounding  with  water,"  and  rain  seldom  falls  ou 
the  thu'sty  fields. 

Our  first  visit  to  them  was  in  August,  1855,  and  at  that 
time  no  rain  had  fallen  on  any  of  them  in  three  years,  and 
some  of  them  had  received  none  in  four  years.  In  many  of 
them  the  cattle  had  perished,  and  the  famine-stricken  in- 
habitants were  flying  to  those  in  which  there  was  still  some 
food.  Appeal  was  made  on  behalf  of  the  sufferers  to  the 
mother  country,  and  to  America :  some  relief  was  obtained, 
but  before  it  came,  the  population,  which  at  the  commence- 
ment of  1855  was  120,000,  had  fallen  below  100,000. 

For  nine  mouths  of  the  year,  the  islands  are  swept  by  the 
strong  northeast  trade-winds,  and  during  their  continuance 


CAPE  VEED  ISLANDS. 


329 


no  rain  is  exjDected ;  the  plants,  except  the  orchilla,  and 
others  which  subsist  mainly  on  the  atmosphere,  wither ;  and 
it  is  only  by  irrigation  that  the  fruit-trees  are  preserved  in 
the  valleys.  During  the  months  of  August,  September,  and 
October,  the  prevailing  winds  are  from  the  southwest,  and 
they  occasionally  bring  rain  with  them.  Of  late  yeai-s  the 
droughts  have  been  more  frequent  than  formerly  ;  and  each 
succeeding  one  becomes  longer  than  the  former.  A  few 
more  such  as  that  which  has  just  passed  will  leave  the  islands 
without  inhabitants ;  and  when  they  are  gone,  the  world  will 
be  just  as  good  and  quite  as  intelligent  as  it  is  with  them. 

For  many  years  these  were  the  penal  colonies  of  Portu- 
gal; the  criminals  were  allowed  to  import  negroes,  as  slaves, 
from  the  coast ;  with  these  they  intermarried,  and  the  pre- 
sent inhabitants  are  worthy  representatives  of  this  mixture 
.  of  depravity  and  ignorance.  Physically  the  African  element 
predominates;  their  skins  are  black  and  their  heads  are 
kinky,  and  but  for  the  regularity  of  their  features  they  would 
pass  for  genuine  Ethiopians.  The  officers  of  the  government, 
many  of  the  merchants,  and  the  higJ\(u-  priests,  are  white 
Portuguese  ;  but  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants  may  be  called 
blacks,  without  the  least  violation  of  language. 

The  climate  of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  is  in  every  respect 
tropical ;  but  owing  to  the  constancy  of  the  trade-winds 
which  sweep  over  them,  the  temperature  is  moderate  and 
uniform.  During  what  is  termed  the  rainy  season  the  cli- 
mate is  deadly  to  Americans,  and  persons  from  the  north 
of  Europe.  African  fever  prevails,  and  frequently,  becom- 
ing epidemic,  carries  off  many  of  the  inhabitants.  During 
tlie  prevalence  of  the  northeast  trade-winds  the  atmosphere 
is  dry  and  laden  with  dust,  swept  from  the  lifeless  lields; 


330        PEKSOXAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


inflammatory  fevers  are  then  frequent,  and  it  becomes  the 
white-skinned  stranger  to  be  always  temperate  in  living  and 
exercise,  and  to  avoid  the  night  air.  The  sanitary  regula- 
tion of  the  African  squadron,  which  jirohibits  staying  on 
shore  on  the  coast  after  sunset,  is,  and  for  sufficient  reasons, 
applied  to  these  islands  also. 

Some  of  this  group  are  worthy  of  particular  notice. 

MAYO, 

which  is  twelve  miles  long  and  eight  broad,  is  remarkable 
for  having  but  one  spring  of  fresh  water  in  its  whole  extent. 
It  is  thinly  populated;  the  wretched  inhabitants  make  a 
scanty  living  by  manufacturing  salt  from  sea-water  ;  and  they 
do  no  more  of  this  than  will  suffice  to  buy  corn  enough  to 
keep  body  and  soul  together. 

The  living  sharers  of  their  want  are  pigs,  donkeys,  and 
goats.  By  the  way,  I  should  like  to  know  if  the  experiment 
of  starving  goats  or  donkeys  has  ever  been  tried.  If  so, 
with  what  success  ? 

BOAVISTA, 

(literally  good  view),  is  said  to  have  been  productive  at  one 
time ;  at  present  it  is  almost  a  desert.  Its  people,  of  M  lioni 
there  are  four  thousand,  are  always  hungry,  and  tlie  lean 
cattle,  with  sad  faces  and  tears  in  their  eyes,  walk  solemnly 
in  endless  rumination  over  grassless  fields.  In  the  valleys 
there  is  some  vegetation.  Fishing,  salt-making,  and  going 
to  funerals,  are  the  chief  amusements  and  employments  of 
the  people. 


I 


CAPE  VERD  ISLANDS. 


331 


SAl. 

is  well  known  to  the  American  trade  for  the  excellence  and 
quantity  of  the  salt  produced  there.  Along  the  beach,  on 
which  the  salt-pans  lie,  vast  hills  of  it  may  he  seen  glistening 
in  the  sun,  like  huge  drifts  of  snow. 

FUEGO 

(Fogo)  is  reraarkaljle  for  the  height  of  its  central  moun- 
tain, which  is  a  slumbering  volcano.  It  emits  smoke  and 
gaseous  vapors ;  and  at  night,  in  heavy  weather,  the  clouds 
above  it  reflects  a  dull  red  light  from  the  fires  in  its  crater. 
Its  height,  as  estimated  by  M.  Kerhallet,  is  2,976  metres, 
and  the  depth  of  the  crater  186  metres.  Mrs.  Somerville, 
quoting  from  Vidal,  gives  the  height  as  9,154  feet. 

As  late  as  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century  this  volcano 
was  so  active  that  it  served  a  valuable  purpose  as  a  light- 
house to  mariners  on  the  adjacent  seas. 

ST.  VIXCEXT 

is  fiivorably  known  to  the  American  cruiser ;  for  here  the 
English  steamers  of  the  Brazilian  line  deliver  the  American 
mails  for  the  African  squadron.  The  tax  on  letters  is  one 
readily  paid  ;  but  this  is  no  reason  why  the  exorbitant  charge 
sixty-five  cents  per  half  ounce  should  be  extorted  from 
men  wlio  arc  serving  their  country  on  the  African  coast. 
Surely  they  are  taxed  disproportionately ;  and  that  portion 
of  it  which  goes  to  our  own  government  might  well  be  les- 
sened. 


332        PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  bay  of  Porto  Grande,  in  the  island  of  St.  Vincent, 
affords  a  secure  anchorage  from  the  prevailing  winds.  The 
town,  bearing  the  same  name  as  the  bay,  is  a  collection  of 
small  stone  huts,  surrounded  by  hills  and  valleys  that  are 
the  very  emblems  of  barrenness.  It  is  the  coal  depot  of  the 
English  Brazilian  lines,  on  the  local  expenditures  of  which 
the  town  is  supported.  The  houses  of  the  American  and 
English  vice  consuls,  coal  agents  and  traders,  help  to  give 
it  an  air  of  civilization  and  decency.  On  an  arid  plain 
beyond  the  town  is  the  American  graveyard.  We  have 
visited  it  often,  but  never  without  sadness  at  the  fate  of 
those  who  met  death  and  found  their  long  homes  on  so 
lonely  a  shore.  After  we  are  dead,  it  Avill  matter  little 
where  earth  returns  to  earth ;  but  in  anticipating  that 
event,  it  would  add  much  to  its  gloom  to  think  that  the 
bed  of  our  long  sleej)  should  be  made  where  the  surf  beats 
on  a  neglected  shore,  where  the  dreary  wind  speaketh  con- 
tinually in  a  mournful  voice,  whei-e  flowers  find  no  life,  and 
where  the  angel  of  desolation  spreadeth  his  Avings  forever. 
On  such  a  spot  is  the  American  graveyard  of  Porto  Grande. 
But  even  here,  as  though  kind  nature  would  speak  to  us  in 
the  language  of  hope  and  life  from  the  midst  of  death,  on  a 
soil  unmoved  by  swelling  germs  or  insect  forms,  a  few 
dwarf  cedars,  emblems  of  immortality,  rear  their  tiny  heads 
and  point  us  to  the  skies.  Here  sleep  officers  and  men, 
carried  off  by  diseases  contracted  on  the  coast,  Avho  never 
dreamt  that  a  life  of  honorable  ambition  and  faithful  service 
could  end  in  such  quietude  and  obscurity.  The  fence  of 
the  yard  is  falling  down  ;  the  American  eagle  which  stands 
over  the  gate,  spreading  his  wings  in  the  attitude  of  defence, 
is  dropping  to  pieces ;  and  many  of  the  tombs  and  head- 


CAPE  VEKD  ISLAIOJS. 


333 


stones  have  fallen  do^"n.  The  same  state  of  things  exists 
in  the  graveyard  of  Porto  Praya;  and  I  am  sorry  to  say, 
that,  as  compared  with  those  of  other  nations,  the  American 
burial-grounds  abroad  are  generally  in  a  disgraceful  condi- 
tion. Is  it  true  that  the  civilization  and  refinement  of  a 
people  may  be  estimated  by  the  respect  which  they  show 
for  their  dead  ?  Our  consuls  abroad  and  the  commanders 
of  our  foreign  squadrons  might  do  much  toward  wiping  out 
this  reproach. 

When  last  at  this  port  we  exhumed  the  remains  of  Lieut. 
Henry,  formerly  of  the  U.  S.  navy,  an  accomplished,  worthy 
and  beloved  young  officer.  They  rest  now,  amid  the  dust 
of  his  fathers,  under  the  greensward  of  Pennsylvania. 

As  we  came  away  for  the  last  time  from  that  unconse- 
crated  ground,  and  our  feet  sank  ankle  deep  in  the  buniing 
■  dust,  the  earnest  prayer  was :  "  bury  me  not  among  stran- 
gers. No,  let  me  sleep  where  spring  shall  scatter  flowers 
o'er  the  moldering  urn,  and  the  carolling  of  birds  shall  min- 
gle with  the  lullabies  of  angel  watchers,  and  friends  shall 
come  in  the  quiet  evening  to  commune  with  the  invisible 
beloved,  to  gather  thoughts  of  heaven,  and  to  learn  the  way. 

The  adjoining  island, 

ST.  ANTON  10, 

produces  com,  sugar-cane  and  fruits;  but  not  enough  for 
the  support  of  its  population. 

BKAVA 


has  some  well  watered  and  fertile  valleys,  and  produces 
cattle  and  vegetables  for  exportation  to  the  other  islands. 


334:       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKYATIONS. 


Fortunately  for  these  people,  the  waters  around  the  group 
produce  excellent  fish.  Whales  are  taken  occasionally  in 
the  breeding  season  ;  and  the  barter  -with  the  whalers  pro- 
duces bread. 

ST.  JAGG 

is  the  most  important  island  of  the  Cape  Verd  groui).  Its 
population  is  more  numerous,  its  exportations  and  importa- 
tions are  larger  :  it  is  the  port  of  entry  to  the  other  islands, 
has  the  seat  of  government,  the  cathedral,  and  the  U.  S. 
storehouse  of  the  African  squadron.  Porto  Praya  is  the 
chief  town.  The  bay  of  the  same  name  opens  to  the  south- 
ward, is  a  mile  and  a  half  wide  at  its  entrance,  and  a  mile 
inland.  Its  shores  are  bold  and  high,  and  being  lined  by 
huge  masses  of  conglomerate,  are  almost  inaccessible.  At 
the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a  sand  beach  half  a  mile  in 
length.  Here  boats  land,  or  rather  stop,  and  the  passen- 
gers are  carried  through  the  surf  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
boatmen,  or  natives,  hungry  for  a  fee.  The  tOAvn  is  built 
on  a  plateau,  or  table  land,  150  feet  high,  which  contains 
about  a  square  mile.  Its  native  inhabitants  number  four 
thousand ;  Portuguese  officials  and  other  foreigners,  about 
a  hundred.  Here  resides  W.  H.  Morse,  Esq.,  our  hospi- 
table and  energetic  consul  for  the  Cape  Verd  Islands.  The 
houses  are  built  on  the  sides  of  a  large  square;  many  of 
them  are  of  good  size,  and  all  are  substantial,  being  built 
of  stone  and  covered  Avith  Dutch  tiles.  There  is  a  small 
market  here  ;  and  beef,  poultry  and  vegetables,  can  be 
obtained  in  small  quantities ;  and  besides  these,  some  of 
the  finest  oranges  in  the  world.  Water  is  sold,  but  at  a 
low  price.    It  is  wholesome,  but  of  an  unjileasant  flavor,  as 


CAPE  VEED  ISLANDS. 


335 


it  passes  tlirougli  strata  of  rotten  limestone.  Beef,  water 
and  tobacco  are  monopolies ;  that  is,  a  company  or  an  indi- 
vidual pays  the  government  so  much  for  the  right  to  sell 
these  articles,  and  none  are  allowed  to  sell  but  by  appoint- 
ment of  the  monopolist.  Monopoly  has  this  advantage 
here,  that  a  small  quantity  is  sold  at  the  same  rate  as  a 
large  quantity ;  thus  preventing  speculation,  and  putting 
the  poor  on  the  same  footing  with  the  rich.  Slaves  are  still 
sold  in  St.  Jago,  and  by  the  pound  at  that ;  but  a  pound  of 
old  negro  meat  will  not  bring  as  much  as  the  more  young 
and  tender  flesh.  It  may  be  well  to  remark,  however,  that 
this  meat  is  not  generally  eaten !  The  flag-ship  Jamestown 
spent  much  time  at  Porto  Praya,  as  in  duty  bound,  and  we 
had  ample  opportunity  of  making  short  excursions  in  its 
vicinity.  I  should  like  to  tell  you  of  some  of  these,  and, 
dear  reader,  of  our  walks  to  the  baobab  tree,  forty  feet  in 
circumference,  which  was  standing  where  it  now  stands 
when  the  island  was  discovered ;  and  of  our  walk  to  Trini- 
dad, where  there  are  gardens  and  orange  orchards ;  and 
how  we  broke  down  on  the  way ;  and  how  our  dignified 
fleet  surgeon  worked  his  passage  to  town  on  the  back  of  a 
donkey  "  that  wouldn't  go."  I  should  like  to  give  an  ac- 
count of  our  visit  to  the  ancient  capital  of  the  island,  the 
city  of  Cidade  (formerly  St.  Jago),  now  in  ruins  ;  its  vene- 
rable cathedral,  ruined  monastery,  and  parish  church,  in 
which  are  tombstones  which  date  back  to  a  period  anterior 
to  the  discovery  of  America;  and  how  we  came  near  losing 
our  lives  on  the  way  by  being  struck  by  a  flaw.  I  should 
like  to  tell  you  something  of  our  excellent  friend,  the  gover- 
nor of  these  islands  ;  and  of  our  dear  and  pious  old  friend, 
the  Roman  Catholic  bishop  of  the  Cape  Vcrd  Islands ;  and 


336        PERSONAL  ADTENTUEES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 

how  his  fat  sides  shook  Tvith  laughter  when  we  proposed  to 
send  him  two  Methodist  preachers  from  America  who  should 
do  more  and  better  work  than  his  forty  priests  all  put 
together.  All  about  these  things  I  could  tell  you,  and 
more  besides;  but  I  fear  that  you  are  already  weary  of 
these  sketches,  and  I  know  I  am. 

The  J amestown  left  Porto  Praya  and  the  African  station 
on  the  first  day  of  May,  1857,  and  entered  the  Delaware  on 
the  first  of  June  ;  having  visited  over  twenty  foreign  ports, 
many  of  them  several  times,  boarded  over  a  hundred  ves- 
sels, and  sailed  37,000  miles.  She  was  pronounced  in  "per- 
fect order  and  efliciency  "  by  the  inspecting  officers  on  her 
return ;  and  I  question  if  a  better  disciplmed  or  more  moral 
crew  ever  Avorked  a  ship :  thanks  to  her  excellent  Comman- 
der, J.  H.  W. ;  First  Lieutenant,  T.  H.  P. ;  Marine  Officer, 
W.  L.  S. ;  and  the  exemj^lary  lives  of  all  her  commissioned 
officers.  I  would  like  to  describe  the  emotions  which  stirred 
in  our  hearts  as  the  shores  of  our  own  beloved  land  loomed 
above  the  horizon  ;  the  pride,  the  gratitude,  which  glowed 
when  we  breathed  again  the  air  of  the  noblest,  the  freest 
of  earth  ;  the  tears  of  joy  that  welcomed  us  home,  and  the 
thanksgiving  of  devoted  hearts  in  our  behalf.  But  lan- 
guage fails  us. 


CAISTARY  ISLANDS. 


15 


CANARY  ISLANDS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GRAND  CANARY. 

Peak  of  TcncrifTc  in  the  Distance — Grand  Canary — Natives  Visit  the 
Ships — Our  Commercial  Agent — Surface,  Soil,  and  Productions  of  the 
Island — City  of  Las  Palmas— A  Visit  to  the  Shore — Hotel,  Market, 
Cathedral,  Foundling  Asylum,  Female  College,  Club-room,  etc. 

All  through  a  cloudy  clay  in  the  month  of  October,  we 
were  exijecting  to  hear  the  cry  of  "Land,  ho!"  from  the 
"  tops,"  and  occasionally  sweeping  the  western  horizon  with 
our  telescopes,  looking  for  the  giant  landmark  of  these 
waters — the  Peak  of  Tcneriffe.  About  sunset,  the  clouds 
from  the  south  and  west  dispersed,  and  far  off  on  the 
western  horizon,  near  the  place  of  the  sun's  departure,  the 
huge  cone  appeared,  clearly  defined,  its  broad  base  seeming 
to  rest  on  the  surface  of  the  now  burnished  ocean,  and 
bearing  the  evening  stars  on  its  Atlantcan  shoulders. 

By  observation,  we  found  that  Ave  were  sixty  miles  dis- 
tant, yet  80  distinct  was  the  outline,  that  we  might  have 
seen  it  several  hours  sooner,  if  the  sky  had  been  free  from 
clouds.  The  Peak  is  said  to  be  visible,  in  very  clear  wea- 
ther, at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  miles ;  yet  it  seldom 

8S9 


340       PEESONAX,  ADVENTTJEES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


happens  iii  this  latitude,  that  the  sky  is  entirely  cloudless, 
and  hence  it  is  but  seldom  seen  beyond  the  distance  of  fifty 
or  sixty  'miles,  and  then  often  the  summit  of  the  cone  alone 
is  visible,  peering  above  the  clouds,  which  the  mountain 
attracts  and  holds  to  its  sides. 

Few  pictures  live  more  vividly  in  memory  than  the  first 
appearance  of  a  land  for  which  the  voyager  has  been  anx- 
iously looking,  when  seen  from  the  narrow  confines  of  a  ship 
tossed  on  a  monotonous  sea ;  and  from  no  other  point  of 
view  will  the  impression  be  so  favorable.  The  rugged 
steeps  and  dark  ravines  are  lost  in  the  distance ;  bills  and 
vales  blend  with  each  other  in  softened  lines ;  and  the  mind, 
absorbed  in  the  physical  aspect,  forgets  the  human  sorrows 
and  moral  deformities  Avhich  exist  in  every  clime. 

Such  a  xiew  was  ours,  on  the  evening  referred  to.  The 
solitary  ship,  the  silent  sea,  the  darkening  sky,  the  fliding 
glow  of  evening,  the  struggling  star-light,  the  clearly-de- 
fined circle  of  the  horizon,  broken  only  by  the  mammoth 
pyramid  rising  from  the  plane  of  the  ocean, 

"  Like  Earth's  gigantic  sentinel, 
Discoursing  in  the  sky," 

conspired  to  produce  an  impression  that  must  live  in 
memory,  a  thing  of  beauty,  for  ever.  But  more  of  Tene- 
riffe  in  its  appropriate  jilace ;  at  present  wc  arc  bound  for 
other  shores. 

On  the  following  morning,  Sunday  14th,  the  island  of 
Grand  Canary  was  fuUy  in  view ;  we  were  running  before 
the  brisk  N.E.  trade-wind,  and  early  in  the  afternoon  stood 
in  for  the  town  of  Las  Palmas,  and  came  to  anchor  in  its 
open  roadstead,  a  mUe  from  the  shore.   The  decks  wero 


GKAIID  CANAET. 


341 


speedily  cleared,  the  awnings  spread,  all  tinneeessary  work 
abandoned,  and  the  men  being  already  in  clean  dress,  our 
sliip  assumed  a  quietness  and  neatness  becoming  the  sacred 
day.  The  health-boat,  bearing  the  Sj^anish  ensign,  after 
much  delay,  came  alongside,  and  granted  us  leave  to  com- 
municate with  the  shore.  She  was  followed  by  a  number 
of  shore-boats,  filled  with  natives  of  all  ages  and  classes, 
curious  to  see  an  American  man-of-war.  They  Averc  per- 
mitted to  board,  and  interested  ns  much  with  their  lively 
prattle,  respectful  manners  and  variety  of  costumes.  They 
are  more  swarthy,  but  not  less  robust  than  their  brethren 
of  Sj^ain,  much  like  the  Creoles  of  Cuba,  and  have  nothing 
characteristic  in  dress,  if  we  except  the  knee-breeches  and 
coarse  woollen  hose,  supported  at  the  knee  with  brightly 
colored  stripes;  and  this,  as  we  afterward  observed,  dis- 
tinguished the  people  of  the  countiy  from  those  of  the 
city,  and  the  fishermen  of  the  coast. 

The  people  of  these  islands,  excepting  the  aristocracy, 
who  are  educated  in  Spain,  and  the  government  officials, 
who  are  mostly  from  tlie  mother  country,  are  generally 
very  poor,  very  hospitable,  very  ignorant,  very  honest,  very 
dirty,  and  very  religious;  though  not  unusually  moral! 
Very  few  of  them  have  as  yet  heard  of  Luther  and  the 
Reformation,  and  when  they  do,  they  will  shrug  their 
shoulders,  and  wish  the  heretic  a  quick  passage  to  a  place 
beyond  purgatory.  A  few  among  the  better  informed  of 
the  canaille  have  heard  of  Protestantism,  but  their  most 
liberal  opinion  of  it  is,  that  it  is  a  faith  of  negations — a 
creed  of  protest  against  all  the  teachings  of  the  Church; 
believmg  notliing  but  the  being  of  God,  and  having  no 
practical  faith  in  that. 


342       PEESONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 

At  the  British  consulate  in  the  island  of  Teneriffe,  we 
baptized  a  child  of  English  parentage,  and  at  the  request  of 
the  friends,  used  that  beautiful  form  of  the  church  of  Eng- 
land, which  requires  that  the  sign  of  the  cross  be  made  on 
the  forehead  of  the  child,  "  in  token  that  hereafter  he  shall 
not  be  ashamed  to  acknowledge  the  faith  of  Christ  cruci- 
fied." When  the  ceremony  was  ended,  an  intelligent- 
looking  native  who  was  present  exclaimed,  "  What !  do 
Protestants  believe  in  Christ  and  the  cross  ?"  Dear  little 
Peter  Swanson,  may  the  spiritual  significance  of  the  sign, 
impressed  on  thy  tender  brow,  be  the  comfort  of  thy  life 
and  death ! 

The  flag  Heutenant,  Mr.  B.,  went  ashore  to  pay  the 
respects  of  the  commodore  to  the  authorities  of  the  island, 
and  brought  oft'  with  him  our  consular  agent,  Mr.  Manley, 
who,  though  an  EngUshman,  has  acted  in  that  capacity  for 
many  years,  and  to  whose  kindness  and  ample  information 
we  are  indebted  for  much  of  our  knowledge  of  this  island. 

Grand  Canary  is  not,  as  its  name  seems  to  import,  the 
largest  island  of  the  Canary  archijielago ;  but  was  called 

grand"  by  the  discoverer,  Bethencourt,  on  account  of  the 
bravery  and  warhke  character  of  the  aboriginal  inliabitants ; 
and  it  gives  the  general  name  of  Canary  to  the  group 
around,  though  it  is  but  the  second  in  size.  Although  it  is 
an  upheaval,  or  elevation,  of  volcanic  formation,  it  pos- 
sesses many  plains  and  plateaus,  and  hiUs  and  valleys  of 
gentle  slopes,  so  that  it  is  less  broken  in  outline,  and  con- 
tains a  greater  amount  of  cultivatable  land,  than  any  of  its 
neighbors  ;  and  if  Ave  except  Madeira,  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
fruitful  island  of  its  size  in  the  volcanic  system  of  the  Afri- 
can coast.   Its  rock,  embracing  mainly  the  volcanic  con- 


GRAXD  CANAKT. 


843 


glomerate,  tufas,  compact  basalt  and  vesicular  scoria,  is  in 
general  character,  identical  with  that  of  Madeira. 

The  soil  is  remarkably  fi-uitful,  and  the  climate  is  so 
favorable  to  vegetation,  that,  as  we  were  infonned  by  com- 
petent authority,  two  crops  of  wheat  may  be  produced  on 
the  same  ground  in  one  year. 

The  most  popular  brands  of  Canary  wine  were  formerly 
produced  in  this  island,  but  here,  as  in  Madeira,  and  in  the 
other  islands  of  this  group,  and  from  the  same  cause,  the 
grape  has  almost  entirely  disappeared.  Sugar  cane  to  be 
manufactured  into  rum,  and  cochineal  for  exportation,  are 
now  the  staple  articles  of  agriculture.  The  island  is  105 
miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  a  population  of  59,900 ; 
including  the  11,250  of  the  city. 

The  city  of  Las  Pahnas,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Canary 
Islands,  and  now  the  residence  of  the  Royal  Council,  is 
situated  on  the  southera  side  of  the  island,  on  a  plain  of  a 
mile  in  width  and  about  three  miles  in  length.  On  this 
plain,  and  to  the  west  of  the  city,  stand  many  venerable 
palms  which  are  said  to  have  been  of  theii-  present  height 
when  these  islands  were  colonized,  and  are  therefore  at 
least  1,500  years  old.  From  them  the  city  derived  its  name, 
Las  Palmas  being  UteraUy  "  the  palm  trees."  From  the 
anchorage,  the  city  presents  a  pretty,  rather  than  an  impos- 
ing, appearance.  The  substantial,  square-roofed  houses,  are 
generally  painted  in  some  briUiaut  color,  and  here  and  there 
an  ornamented  dome,  or  graceful  spii-e,  gives  an  air  of  taste 
to  the  picture. 

Early  on  the  morning  following  our  arrival,  I  joined 
Dr.  C.  in  a  visit  to  the  shore  ;  knowing  that,  with  his  many 
other  inestimable  qualities  and  accompUshments,  his  thor- 

16* 


344        PEESO>'AL  ADVEyiTBES  AST)  OBSZEVATIOlfS. 

ongh  command  of  the  Spanish  language  M-ould  make  him  a 
Taluable  guide.  TTe  found  our  way  to  the  English  Hold 
— so  called,  perhaps,  because  the  servants  don't  understand 
a  -word  of  that  language — were  admitted  through  a  massive 
door  into  an  open  court,  around  ■which  the  house  stands  in 
pure  Moorish,  or  Spanish,  style — which  you  please — ^were 
conducted  to  the  second  story,  which  alone  is  inhabitable  in 
such  buildings,  led  into  a  dark  room,  and,  when  the  heavy 
doors  and  window-shutters  grated  their  welcome  to  the 
light  of  day,  found  ourselves  surrounded  with  pictures 
illustrating  the  adventures  of  Don  Quixote.  We  felt  at 
home  at  once  I  asked  the  butler  if  he  was  not  a  lineal 
descendant  of  the  immortal  shadow — ^told  him  we  made  the 
acquaintance  of  his  relative  in  our  boyhood,  and  hoped  that 
by  4  o'clock,  he  would  give  us  a  dinner  worthy  of  the  friends 
of  the  femily.  He  grinned  and  bowed,  and  we  returned  to 
the  street  for  a  lion  hunt. 

The  city,  which  is  bmlt  ^vith  some  respect  to  system,  is 
divided  in  the  centre  by  a  river  bed,  now  dry,  which  is 
inclosed  by  walls  of  solid  masonry,  and  spanned  by  a  stone 
bridge,  the  balustrades  of  which  are  ornamented  by  well 
cut  marble  statues  of  several  of  the  heathen  deities.  Xear 
the  river  is  the  fruit  market ;  and  here  we  loitered  for 
a  while,  feasting  our  eyes  on  the  greatest  variety  of  fruits 
and  vegetables  that  we  ever  beheld  in  a  market-place. 
The  pumpikins,  several  of  which  we  failed  to  lift  on  account 
of  their  weight,  squashes,  melons,  and  other  fruits  of  the 
genus  cucurbita,  surpassed  any  fancy  pictures  we  had  ever 
drawn  of  tropical  luxuriance.  We  speak  of  this  as  a 
tropical  climate,  for  although  it  is  not  included  in  that 
zone  which  geographers  call  tropical,  its  climate  and 


GEAND  CAITAEY. 


345 


animal  and  vegetable  productions  entitle  it  to  that  classifi- 
cation. 

Let  the  reader  imagine  a  small  triangular  court,  lined 
with  stalls,  in  which  are  heaps  of  such  pimipkins  as  we  have 
described,  overhung  by  festoons  of  smooth  rose-colored 
onions,  and  bunches  of  honey  dropping  bananas  fifty  pounds 
in  weight ;  crowd  the  doors  and  shelves  with  baskets  of 
ajjples  and  pomegranates,  pears  and  citrons,  peaches, 
apricots  and  limes,  oranges  and  plums,  dates  and  mul- 
berries, figs  and  melons ;  and,  among  these,  pack  mammoth 
specimens  of  the  common  culinary  vegetables  of  America, 
making  room  for  walnuts,  almonds  and  chestnuts,  and 
ornament  the  whole  with  bunches  of  gorgeous  flowers,  and 
he  will  have  a  fair  idea  of  the  market  of  Las  Palmas  in 
summer. 

But  little  in  the  way  of  architecture  is  to  be  expected  in 
western  Africa  or  any  of  its  islands;  yet,  the  cathedral 
of  St,  Anne,  though  still  unfinished  after  a  hundred  years 
of  building,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  edifice  ;  in  that  style 
which,  in  its  pointed  and  uplifting  arches,  is  full  of  beauty, 
and  symbolically  appropriate  to  a  temple  of  worship.  The 
gothic  style  is  speedily  regaining  favor  in  Europe,  and  finds 
admiration  in  America,  and  the  time  is  not  distant  when  it 
will  be  generally  imitated  in  church  architecture. 

The  arched  and  tastefully  ornamented  roof  is  supported 
within  by  the  rows  of  columns  which  divide  the  interior 
into  three  aisles,  of  which  the  central  one  has  a  tessellated 
marble  floor,  while  those  on  each  side  are  ornamented  with 
private  altars,  statuettes  and  oil  paintings.  Of  these,  two, 
representing  the  crucifixion  and  resurrection  of  our  Lord, 
arc  valuable  imitations  of  Murillo.   The  choir — a  room  on 


346       PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  floor,  itself  quite  a  large  chapel — occupies  one  end 
of  the  central  aisle,  and  the  chancel,  containing  the  grand 
altar,  which  is  covered  with  a  plating  of  solid  silver,  the 
other.  The  lamp  which  goes  not  out,  suspended  before  the 
altar,  is  also  soUd  silver,  handsomely  chased,  and  weighing 
five  hundred  pounds.  "We  were  shown  into  the  sacristy, 
and  allowed  to  take  the  furniture  of  the  altar  and  the  vest- 
ments of  the  priests  in  our  heretical  hands.  Several  of  the 
crucifixes  are  of  solid  gold,  and  the  chalice  also  is  gold,  set 
with  costly  diamonds.  The  vestures  of  the  higher  clergy 
are  the  richest  fabrications  of  the  kind  that  we  have  ever 
seen  ;  one  of  them,  made  of  white  brocade  silk,  profusely 
trimmed  with  a  fringe  of  pure  gold- — the  robe  of  a  bishop — 
cost  over  five  thousand  dollars.  The  garments  alone  are 
estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand  dollars ;  the  interest  of 
which  would  support  and  educate  the  poor  children  of  the 
island. 

From  here  we  descended  into  a  catacomb,  dark  and 
damp,  which  occupies  the  space  imder  the  chancel,  and  has 
already  several  occupants,  including  two  or  tliree  bishops. 
The  roof  of  this  ajiartment  is  composed  of  large  square 
stones  and  stands,  without  arch  or  pillar,  by  being  closely 
tongued  and  grooved  together,  and  fostened  with  a 
strong  cement.  It  is  a  piece  of  masonry  worthy  of  any 
country. 

Going  through  the  public  square,  as  we  left  the  cathedral, 
we  passed  the  venerable-looking  bishop  of  these  islands, 
dressed  in  a  red  cloak,  black  knee-breeches,  scarlet  hose 
and  silver-buckled  shoes.  He  was  accompanied  by  a  num- 
ber of  Jesuit  priests,  who  were  dressed  in  long  black 
gowns,  wearing  the  long  stove-pipe  hat,  which  here  desig- 


GRAND  CANAEY. 


nates  that  order.  Wo  gave  the  amiable  old  man  a  military 
salute  as  we  passed  him,  which  he  returned  with  the 
unusual  compliment,  lifting  his  cocked  hat,  and  the  stove- 
pipes flying  up  in  imitation,  revealed  a  number  of  closely- 
shaven  pates. 

A  well-dressed  and  well-served  dinner  awaited  us  at  the 
hotel,  but  one  certainly  more  suitable  to  the  stomach  of  a 
Don  Quixote  than  to  that  of  an  American.  The  odor  of 
garlic  met  us  at  the  door  to  check  the  ardor  of  appetite. 
Garlic  in  the  soup,  garlic  in  the  fish  sauce,  garlic  in  the 
gravy,  jfricassee  d  la  garlic,  tlie  bi'ead,  and  even  the  dessert, 
tasted  of  garlic,  and  for  days  after,  the  miserable  scent  fol- 
lowed us,  as  insensible  to  hints  as  a  poor  relation.  After 
dinner,  we  were  visited  by  a  couple  of  gentlemen,  who 
came  to  offer  us,  in  common  with  the  officers  of  the  ship, 
the  freedom  of  the  club-room  of  the  city,  and  to  escort  us 
to  such  places  as  we  desired  to  visit.  We  placed  ourselves 
at  their  disposal,  walked  through  the  most  pleasant  parts 
of  the  city,  and  visited  the  foundling  hospital  and  female 
college. 

In  the  hospital  there  are  over  one  hundred  children 
between  the  ages  of  a  few  days  and  fourteen  years,  mostly 
females.  They  are  here  taught  needle-work,  reading,  and 
weaving,  and  furnished  with  food  and  clothing  until  they 
are  old  enough  to  make  a  living  for  themselves. 

The  institution  is  directed  and  maiutainod  by  the  Sisters 
of  Charity,  who  continue  a  kindly  watchfulness  over  their 
wards  for  years  after  they  leave  it.  Of  the  number  of 
children  there  under  six  months  old,  two  only  were  in  good 
health — this,  not  for  the  Avant  of  medical  attention  or  good 
nursing,  but  because  the  majority  of  them  are  born  with 


348       PEKSONAL  ADVKNTUEES  Am)  OBSEKVATIONS. 

those  diseases  wliich  arc  the  heritage  of  abandonment. 
The  lady,  acting  as  matron  of  the  establishment,  infoi'med 
us  that  of  those  brought  there  in  infaucy,  but  about  ten  per 
centum  reached  the  second  year.  The  children  partook  of 
the  evening  meal — consisting  chiefly  of  bread  and  a  light 
broth — while  we  were  there  ;  and  as  we  were  leaving,  they 
were  chanting,  mechanically  and  with  husky,  sorrowful 
notes,  their  hymn  of  thanksgiving.  Between  those  we  left, 
in  the  upper  rooms  in  the  various  stages  of  emaciation,  and 
in  articido  mortis^  and  those  singing  in  the  court  below,  we 
were  struck  with  a  common  resemblance  in  expression 
of  features.  Sadness  marked  every  face.  Early  led  into 
the  mystery  of  sorrow,  strangers  to  the  voice  of  afiection 
and  the  caresses  of  maternal  love,  they  are  growing  prema- 
turely old,  knowing  not  the  meaning  of  fxther,  or  sister,  or 
home ;  the  afiection  and  joyfulness  of  childhood  are  wither- 
ing in  the  bud  ;  and  with  many,  the  pale  cheek  shows  that 
the  fair  flowers  are  dead.  Will  Spring  ever  visit  the  gar- 
dens of  these  hearts  ?  has  this  cold  world  a  breath  of  love, 
or  a  gleam  of  suushiue,  to  call  these  dead  heart-flowers  to 
Hfe? 

No,  not  for  all — not  for  most  of  them ! 

"  So  much  the  rather  thou,  celestial  Light, 
Shine  inward  !" 

At  the  female  college,  the  young  ladies,  natives  of  the 
islands,  treated  us  to  some  superior  music.  We  were 
shown  through  the  dormitories  and  recitation-rooms,  and 
everywhere  order  and  taste  were  manifest.  The  course  of 
instruction  is  similar  to  that  pursued  in  our  own  female  col- 
leges, but  difi'ering  advantageously  in  this,  that  languages 


GRAND  OANAEY. 


349 


take  the  place  of  mathematics,  and  pamting  is  carried 
beyond  the  region  of  daubing  in  colors  to  the  highly  useful 
accomplishment  of  sketching  from  nature. 

It  was  now  night ;  so  we  joined  our  messmates  at  the 
club-room,  where  we  spent  a  pleasant  hour  receiving  hospi- 
talities from  the  gentlemen  of  the  city.  After  refreshments, 
the  president  of  the  club  offered  a  toast,  "  To  the  friendly 
relations  existing  between  the  Canary  Islands  and  the 
United  States — may  they  exist  forever !"  This  was  an- 
swered by  our  accomplished  first-lieutenant,  W.  A.  Bartlett, 
in  excellent  Sjmnish ;  both  toasts  were  followed  by  rounds 
of  applause.  A  second  was  offered,  "  To  the  Jamestown 
and  her  officers,"  which  was  appropriately  responded  to  by 
Lieutenant  Commanding,  J.  F.  Armstrong,  who  was  fol- 
lowed by  "  three  times  three." 

Having  thus  contributed  something  toward  strengthen- 
ing the  bonds  of  peace  existing  between  our  nations — we 
say  this  with  a  good  deal  of  self-complacency,  reader — 
we  walked  to  a  brilliantly-lighted  square  near  by,  where  a 
military  band  was  discoursing  artistic  music,  and  the  ladies 
of  the  city  were  promenading.  The  ladies  were  beautiful, 
and  walked  exquisitely ;  but  wo  beg  to  be  excused  from 
going  into  the  usual  ecstasies  of  admiration  over  Spanish 
female  beauty.  True,  their  carriage  is  admirable,  their 
black  eyes  soft  and  beautiful,  but  too  languid,  and  lack- 
lustre, and  are  wanting  in  intellectual  vivacity;  and  tho 
faces  of  the  Spanish  tenoritas  will  not  compare  favor- 
ably with  those  of  the  young  blonds  and  brunettes  of 
America. 

Here,  as  in  Spain  and  the  Ilavanas,  young  people  of 
opposite  sexes  do  not  walk  together  in  public,  unless  they 


350       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

are  affiances^  and  then,  they  are  accompanied  by  the 
mother  of  the  lady,  or  a  prudent  i"elative.  The  reason 
offered  for  this  usage  is,  that  the  sexes  have  moi'e  respect 
for  each  other  when  kept  far  apart ;  but  the  true  reason,  is 
the  suspicion  of  parents,  who  are  often  conscious  of  not 
having  set  a  proper  example  before  their  children. 

We  are  satisfied  that  the  degree  of  intimacy  allowed  in 
the  good  circles  of  American  society — we  exclude  dipper 
tens,  parvenus,  and  the  imitators  of  the  defects  of  foi'eign 
society  now  so  numerous  in  our  cities — contributes  to  the 
self-dependence  and  happiness  of  both  sexes.  The  unhappy 
marriages  which,  statisticians  tell  us,  abound  in  Spanish 
countries,  may,  in  part  at  least,  be  traced  to  the  incon- 
geniality  which  must  so  often  result,  where  the  jiarties 
know  nothing  of  each  other's  personal  qualities  previously 
to  marriage ;  and  also  to  the  want  of  confidence  in  a  virtue 
which  has  never  been  left  to  stand  in  its  own  strength. 
"We  agree  with  the  vicar  of  Wakefield,  that  "  a  virtue 
which  requires  to  be  always  watched,  is  not  worth  having." 

On  the  day  following  our  excursion,  we  remained  aboard, 
and  on  Wednesday  visited  the  young  but  promising  male 
college  of  this  city,  and  the  cochineal  fields  in  the  suburbs, 
of  which  cultivation  we  shall  speak  under  the  head  of 
Teneriffe.  On  Thursday,  our  officers  were  engaged  to 
dine  with  Madam  Mendoza  Tate,  a  South  Carolinian  by 
birth,  who  is  married  to  a  wealthy  gentleman  of  this 
island ;  but  a  violent  storm  came  up  at  noon,  so  that  we 
were  compelled  to  put  to  sea,  and  returned  no  more  to 
Grand  Canary. 


CHAPTER  11. 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CANARY  ISLAm>S. 

History — Supposed  to  have  been  known  to  the  Ancient  Egyptians — 
Solon's  Poem — Homer's  Description — Plutarch's  Account — Pliny's  Re- 
ference— Strabo's — Modern  Discovery,  1330 — Bethcncourt's  Expedition 
— Transfer  to  Count  Niebla — Bought  by  Spain — Conquest  of  the  Islands 
— The  Guanches. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  the  Canary  Islands  are  identical 
with  those  known  to  the  ancients  as  the  Insulae  Beatae,  In- 
sula) Fortunatse,  the  Hespcrides,  and  the  Isles  of  the  Atlan- 
tic. Solon,  during  his  voluntary  exile  in  Egypt,  m  conversing 
with  Senophis  and  Heliopolitan,  the  most  learned  priests  of 
that  country,  was  informed  by  them  of  the  existence  of 
certain  islands,  far  from  the  African  coast,  called  the  Atlan- 
tic Islands,  which  he,  after  his  return,  described  to  his 
countrymen  in  a  poem,  in  which  much  fancy  united  with  a 
few  facts  in  producing  a  florid  and  extended  description. 
It  is  not  certain  that  any  further  information  regarding  them 
was  obtained  between  the  time  of  Solon  and  Homer ;  it  is 
even  probable,  that  all  Homer's  knowledge  of  the  "  abodes 
of  the  blessed  "  was  that  which  had  been  transmitted  from 
Solon,  of  whose  brother  he  was  a  descendant ;  and  it  may 
be  that  this  inimitable  fancy  sketch,  Avhich  is  the  last  and 
only  unfinished  work  of  the  immortal  poet,  is  but  a  re-dress 
and  an  expansion  of  the  poem  of  Solon. 

"  Stern  winter  smiles  on  that  auspicious  clime, 
The  fields  arc  florid  with  unfading  prime  : 

861 


352       PERSONAL  ADTENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


From  the  bleak  pole  no  winds  inclement  blow, 
Mold  the  round  hail  or  flake  the  fleecy  snow  ; 
But  from  the  breezy  deep  the  blest  inhale 
The  fragrant  murmurs  of  the  western  gale." 

Odtss.  it.,  Pope's  Trans. 

Diodorus  Siculus  tells  of  au  island  in  tlie  Atlantic 
"niiich  the  Carthaginians  discovered  in  one  of  their  explora- 
tions ;  hut  from  the  size  ascribed  to  it — "  larger  than  Asia 
or  Africa  " — it  is  more  probable  that  it  was  the  American 
continent  than  one  of  the  Canaries. 

It  is  supposed  that  this  group  was  knowTi  to  the  Phoeni- 
cians, for  whom  it  is  claimed  that  they  circumnavigated 
Afiica  ;  but  we  must  remember  that,  in  traversing  this  re- 
mote region,  we  are  where  history  and  fiction,  fable  and 
fact,  are  inseparable,  and  aU  is  wrapped  in  beclouded  un- 
certainty. It  is  also  to  be  taken  into  consideration,  that  in 
a  system  of  formations  such  as  that  represented  by  the 
islands  of  the  African  coast — which  is  underlaid  by  active 
volcanic  forces,  and  where  evidences  of  elevation  and  erup- 
tion of  comparatively  recent  origin  are  not  wan  ting — islands 
may  have  existed  two  or  three  thousand  years  ago  which 
are  now  submerged. 

Coming  do^vn  to  the  time  of  Caesar  Augustus,  there  is 
evidence  that  something  was  certainly  known  of  islands  in 
these  waters,  to  the  descriptions  of  which  the  Canaries  will 
nearly  answer.  Plutarch  thus  describes  them  :  "  The  For- 
tunate Islands  are  two  in  number,  and  are  at  the  distance  of 
ten  thousand  furlongs  from  tlie  African  coast.  Rain  seldom 
falls  there,  and  when  it  does,  it  falls  moderately :  but  they 
generally  have  soft  breezes,  which  scatter  such  rich  dews, 
that  the  soil  is  not  only  good  for  sowing  and  planting,  but 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CANAKY  ISLAITOS. 


353 


spontaneously  produces  the  most  excellent  finiits,  and  those 
in  such  abundance,  that  the  inhabitants  have  nothing  more 
to  do  than  to  indulge  themselves  in  the  enjoyment  of  ease. 
The  ah-  is  always  pleasant  and  salubrious,  through  the  happy 
temperature  of  the  seasons  and  their  insensible  transitions 
into  each  other."  The  number  of  these  islands  and  the 
description,  so  far  as  it  will  apply  to  any  teiTCstrial  abode, 
seem  to  point  to  the  Madeiras ;  but  as  there  is  no  evidence 
that  that  group  was  inhabited  pre-s"iously  to  their  modem 
discovery — if  we  except  those  traces  left,  doubtless,  by  ship- 
wrecked mariners,  and  upon  -which  the  story  of  Machim 
may  have  been  founded — we  must  suppose  that  he  refers  to 
the  principal  islands  of  the  Canary  group,  Teneriffe  and 
Grand  Canary,  In  giving  their  position  in  relation  to  the 
African  coast,  he  seems  to  have  been  governed  by  a  rule 
which  many  Down-Easters  follow  in  sailing  their  vessels,  viz., 
luck  and  guessing. 

The  elder  Pliny  speaks  more  definitely,  and  considering 
that  in  those  days  sextants  and  chronometers,  lunar  and 
stellar  altitudes,  and  great  circle  sailing,  were  not  yet  in 
embryo,  we  must  make  allowance  for  the  slight  errors  of 
his  navigator  in  reporting  latitude  and  longitude. 

He  says:  "The  Fortunate  Islands  were  discovered  by 
Juba,  who  thus  describes  them.  The  first  island,  called 
Ombrion  [we  may  suppose  that  the  names  were  given  by 
Juba],  has  no  traces  of  buildings.  On  its  hills  is  a  piece  of 
standing  water.  It  bears  trees  resembling  a  ferula,  from 
which  is  expressed  a  water,  bitter,  from  the  dark  species, 
but  from  those  of  a  white  color,  pleasant  to  drink.  [Pro- 
bably the  sap  of  some  species  of  palm.]  Another  is  called 
Junonia,  and  on  it  there  is  one  little  building  of  stone. 


354:        PERSONAL  ADYENTOKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Near  this,  there  is  a  smaller  one  of  the  same  name.  Then 
Campraria,  full  of  great  lizards.  In  sight  of  them  is  Na- 
varia,  taking  its  name  from  perpetual  snows,  and  covered 
with  clouds.  [Tenerilfe  answers  to  tliis  description.  It  is 
generally  surrounded  by  clouds,  and  the  apex  of  its  volcanic 
cone,  called  the  Piton,  being  composed  of  fragmentary 
pumice  of  a  very  light  color,  has,  when  the  sunhght  falls 
upon  it,  a  whitish  or  snow-covered  appearance.]  Next  is 
Canaria,  so  called  from  a  multitude  of  dogs  of  great  size, 
and  traces  of  habitation  appear  there.  As  they  aU  abound 
in  plenty  of  apples,  and  birds  of  every  kind,  so  this  abounds 
in  date-bearing  2:)alins  and  the  nut  of  the  pine-tree."  We 
did  not  see  them,  but  Avere  informed  that  in  some  of  the 
islands  there  are  pines  which  bear  a  pleasant-flavored  nut. 

Strabo's  supposed  reference  to  this  archipelago,  we  find 
in  his  geography  in  these  words :  "  The  fabled  apples  of 
the  Hesperides — the  Islands  of  the  Blest  they  speak  of, 
which  are  still  2:)ointed  out  to  us  opposite  Gades  [the  ancient 
name  of  Cadiz],  and  not  far  distant  from  the  extremities  of 
Maurusia." 

From  the  decline  of  the  Roman  empire  until  the  begin- 
ning of  the  fom'teenth  century,  western  Africa  and  its 
islands  were  lost  to  the  civilized  world.  Generation  after 
generation  of  these  inoffensive  islanders  passed  away  in  bhss- 
ful  ignorance  of  that  civilization,  before  which  they  subse- 
quently disappeared,  and  in  the  proud  belief  that  they  were 
the  largest  aud  most  important  body  of  mankind. 

With  these,  as  with  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  islands  of 
Africa,  then-  modern  discovery  was  the  result  of  accident, 
a  French  merchantman  having  been  driven  there  in  a  gale, 
in  the  year  1330.    France  was  indifferent  to  the  newly- 


I 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CANAET  ISLAIJDS. 


355 


found  territories,  which  were  hers  by  right  of  discovery,  and 
they  are  lost  sight  of  until  near  the  middle  of  this  century, 
when  we  find  them  in  possession  of  PojJC  Clement  V'l.,  who 
makes  a  grant  of  them,  with  the  title  of  king,  to  a  Spaniard, 
Louis  de  la  Cerda,  on  the  condition  that  he  should  cause  "the 
Gospel  to  be  preached  to  the  natives,"  "We  do  not  find  that 
any  equivalent  was  received  by  the  Pope  for  this  grant,  other 
than  the  promise  that  the  Gospel  should  be  preached  to  the 
natives ;  and  this  desire  for  the  salvation  of  an  obscure  race, 
and  the  spread  of  the  principles  of  the  Gospel,  deserves  men- 
tion as  a  redeeming  trait  in  one  whose  character,  as  drawn 
by  Protestants,  is  marked  only  by  unscrupulous  cupidity 
and  the  love  of  luxurious  ease.  The  death  of  Cerda,  which 
was  soon  followed  by  that  of  Clement,  prevented  the  exe- 
cution of  this  scheme,  and  the  islanders  lived  on  in  unbroken 
tranquiUity  to  the  close  of  the  fourteenth  century. 

In  the  year  1400,  John  de  Bethencourt,  a  Norman  baron 
of  means  and  enteq^rLse,  fitted  out  a  small  squadi'on  at 
llochelle,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  possession  of,  and  set- 
tling in,  these  islands.  He  sailed  from  Rochelle  that  same 
year,  and  arriving  at  the  island  now  called  Lanzarote,  he 
landed  without  opposition  fi-om  the  natives,  and  formally 
took  possession  of  it,  and  subsequently  of  Fucrtaveutura, 
Gomcr,  and  Ilierro. 

The  pacific  and  conciliatory  character  of  his  measiu'es  won 
for  him  the  good  Avill  of  the  people  of  these  islands  ;  they 
readily  consented  to  his  terms  of  residence  and  trade; 
granted  him  extensive  possessions  ;  and  on  Lanzarote,  igno- 
rant of  the  use  to  which  it  Avould  bo  afterwards  applied, 
assisted  his  people  in  building  a  fort  at  Ilubicon,  and 
in  the  erection  of  a  church,  called  St.  Marcial.   The  other 


356       PEKSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AIJD  OBSERVATIONS. 


islands,  especially  Graud  Canary  and  Teneriffe,  resisted  his 
approaches. 

From  Don  Henry  IIL,  king  of  Castile,  he  obtained  a  for- 
mal gi-ant  of  the  entire  group,  and  the  promise  of  assistance 
in  reducing  all  the  islands  to  his  authority.  After  a  resi- 
dence of  nearly  ten  years,  during  -which  time  his  colony 
prospered,  and  his  benign  government  "won  to  him  the  at- 
tachment of  his  own  people  and  the  confidence  of  the  natives 
of  the  friendly  islands,  he  returned  to  Spain  to  provide  a 
more  extensive  system  of  settlement,  and  to  arrange  mea- 
sures for  the  reduction  of  Grand  Canary  and  Teneriffe.  He 
left  the  government  in  the  hands  of  his  nephew.  Mason  de 
Bethencourt,  who,  for  the  kind  and  just  measures  of  his 
uncle,  substituted  harshness  and  deception.  He  spent  his 
time  in  arranging  and  working  secret  attacks  against  the 
non-conforming  islands,  for  the  s.ike  of  booty ;  and  stealing 
men,  women,  and  children,  and  shipping  them  to  Spain, 
sold  them  as  slaves.  In  the  course  of  eight  years,  he  became 
an  object  of  disgust  among  even  his  own  people,  and  fearing 
that  he  was  not  altogether  safe  among  them,  he  sold  the 
grant,  which  by  the  death  of  his  uncle  had  fallen  into  his 
hands,  to  a  Spanish  count,  named  Niebla  ;  and  going  to  Por- 
tugal, sold  it  again  to  that  government,  for  a  possession  in 
the  newly-discovered  Madeira.  Niebla  was  supported  in 
his  title  by  his  crown,  and  Portugal  failed  to  secure  her 
claim  to  the  Canaries. 

For  sixty  years,  the  colony  in  Lanzarote  continued  to 
exist,  doing  little  more  than  to  establish  itself  more  firmly 
in  the  friendly  islands,  and  making  occasional,  but  imsuc- 
cessful,  attempts  towards  an  establishment  in  Grand  Canary. 

The  character  of  the  islands  was  now  well  imderstood  in 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CANAEY  ISLA^D3. 


357 


Spain ;  their  extent,  climate,  and  productions,  excited  the 
covetousness  of  their  Catholic  majesties,  who  compelled 
Governor  Diego  de  Herrara  to  sell  his  claim,  under  the  pre- 
text that  he  could  never  subdue  the  natives,  and  allowing 
him  four  millions  of  maravedis — $15,000 — the  group  was 
added  to  the  Spanish  crown. 

In  1477,  a  thousand  Spanish  troops  were  landed  on  the 
shores  of  Grand  Canary,  and  pitched  their  tents  among  the 
palm-trees,  which  waved  over  the  site  of  the  city  of  Las 
Palmas.  The  native  warriors,  numbering  over  four  thou- 
sand, attacked  the  invaders  with  clubs  and  spears,  fighting 
with  a  bravery  worthy  of  a  noble  race ;  but  the  discipline 
and  firearms  of  the  soldiers  prevailed,  and  the  Guanches,* 
retiring  in  good  order  towards  the  mountains,  left  many 
Spaniards  and  three  hundred  natives  on  the  field.  Like  the 
ancient  Britons  they  found  security  in  their  mountains,  and 
occasionally  descending  in  forays  to  the  valleys,  were  vic- 
tors m  many  skirmishes,  and  took  many  prisoners ;  but  at 
length,  after  a  six  years'  war,  they  submitted,  on  condition 
that  the  rank  of  their  jjrinces  should  be  respected,  and  that 
the  possession  of  personal  liberty  and  efiects  should  be 
secured  to  all.  Tliis  event  took  place  on  the  29th  of  April, 
1483,  and  the  day  of  "the  great  peace"  is  still  annually 
celebrated  in  the  cluirches  of  the  island.  In  1487,  Grand 
Canary  received  the  title  of  kingdom  from  the  crown  of  Cas- 
tile, and  was  rated  a  bishopric  by  Pope  Innocent  VIII. ;  and 
in  1515,  Las  Palmas  received  the  title  of  royal  city,  and  was 
constituted  the  capital  of  the  Archipelago. 

The  war  with  Teneriflfe  was  now  vigorously  prosecuted  ; 

*  Called  "  Goiuicbes,"  from  "  Guan,"  which  in  their  language  signifies 
man. 


358        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  chief,  Tanause,  was  made  prisoner  and  sent  to  Spain  as 
a  trophy,  where  he  died  of  a  broken  heart.  After  many 
bloody  struggles,  the  brave  Guanches  of  Teneriffe  submitted, 
but  they  were  conquered  by  the  perfidy,  of  Alonzo  de 
Lugo,  the  Spanish  commander,  rather  than  by  force  of 
arms.  The  prisoners  taken  in  the  wars  were  transported  as 
slaves  to  the  mai-kets  of  Sjiain ;  the  remaining  natives  were 
gradually  reduced  to  a  condition  of  serfdom ;  a  few  inter- 
married with  the  lower  classes  of  the  Spaniards;  and  by  the 
middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  there  was  not  a  pure- 
blooded  Guanchy  to  be  found  in  the  islands ;  and  Spain  was 
in  peaceable  possession  of  "the  abodes  of  the  blest."  The 
pojiulation  continued  to  increase  in  wealth  and  numbers, 
until  the  present  decade,  and  in  numbers  still  continues  to 
multiply ;  but  since  the  failure  of  the  wine-crop,  which  had 
become  the  staple  of  their  agriculture  and  commerce,  heavy 
losses  have  been  experienced  by  capitalists,  and  labor  is  less 
valuable  among  the  poor. 

The  islands  are  seven  in  number:  Teneriffe,  Grand  Canary, 
Palma,  Fuertaventura,  Gomera ,  Hierro,*  and  Lanzarote, 
situate  between  the  parallels  of  27°  30'  and  29°  80',  north 
latitude,  and  12°  and  11°  west  longitude.  Humboldt,  at  the 
close  of  the  last  century,  gave  their  population  as  less  than 
160,000.  We  must  admit,  reluctantly,  that  that  reliable 
traveller  was  mistaken,  as  the  population  has  increased  but 
slowly  in  the  past  fifty  years,  owing  to  emigration,  and  the 
population  at  present  is  over  218,000.  Tins,  with  other  facts, 
we  obtained  from  official  documents  at  the  department  of 
government  at  Santa  Cruz. 

•  At  one  time  the  geographers  of  all  natious  counted  longitude  from 
this  island,  but  at  present  it  is  used  only  by  the  Dutch  for  that  purpose. 


SKETCn  OF  THE  CAXABT  ISLAXDS. 


359 


The  mother  country  has  done  but  little  for  these  islands 
during  a  century,  other  than  to  oppress  them  under  the  plea 
of  goTemment ;  yet,  in  all  her  wars,  they  have  been  her 
fiithful  allies,  and  are  stiU  the  contented  sharers  of  her  fiime. 
Lor  porerty,  and  her  hopeless  indebtedness.  The  present 
population,  Isleilos  (Islanders),  as  they  term  themselves, 
are,  as  has  been  intimated,  of  Spanish  descent,  containing  a 
little  of  the  Norman  French  blood  inherited  from  the  Beth- 
cncourt  colonists,  and  in  parts  of  Tenerifte  Guanchy  features 
are  traceable  among  the  lower  classes.  Thev  are  enterpris- 
ing and  indnstrions;  and  under  a  system  of  government 
more  favorable  to  the  development  of  genius  and  labor, 
would  be  a  most  thrifty  population.* 

The  earliest  reliable  accounts  of  these  islands  represent 
them  as  peopled  by  an  athletic  race,  of  dark-complexion, 
straight  hair,  and  regular  features  of  Moorish  cast ;  whose 
men  were  muscular,  active,  intelligent,  and  brave,  and  whose 
women  were  not  lacking  in  beauty  of  form. 

They  knew  nothing,  nor  had  any  tradition,  of  the  niisrra- 
tion  of  their  ancestors  to  these  islands,  and  supposed  their 
own  the  largest  coimtry  in  the  world.  The  question  of  their 
origin  has  been  fruitful  of  conjecture,  and  on  the  subject 

*  The  gOTernmeat  of  the  islands  is  vested  in  a  Junta,  or  rojal  audience, 
composed  of  five  or  seven  members  appointed  bv  the  cro?rn,  over  whom 
the  governor-general  presides.  The  decisions  of  this  court  are  final  in 
all  cases,  except  those  relating  to  real  estate.  The  judicial  tribunals  be- 
low are  the  courts  of  the  alcalde  major,  and  the  alcalde;  besides  these  there 
is  in  each  village  and  rural  district  an  alcalde,  whose  powers  are  similar 
to  those  of  a  Georgia  justice.  These  officers  are  all  appointed  bv  the 
royal  audience,  and  bold  their  commissions  at  the  pleasure  of  the  gover- 
nor-general. It  is  evident  that  whatever  may  be  the  sins  of  this  govern, 
ment,  the  people  will  be  guiltless ;  and  that  however  enslaved  in  other 
rcspecu,  thej  are  certain!/  free  from  "the  cares  of  state." 


360        PEESONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


which  has  occupied  such  minds  as  Blumenbach  and  Hum- 
boldt, one  not  claiming  to  be  a  savant  is  expected  to  say- 
but  little ;  this  Httle  is,  that  we  see  no  unanswerable  objec- 
tion to,  but  many  &,cts  for,  considering  them  a  branch  of  the 
Atlas  family. 

The  languages  of  the  several  islands  were  closely  allied, 
showing  a  recent  origin  in  a  common  tongue,  and  of  these 
between  one  and  two  hundred  words  remain  to  us  :  these  are 
mostly  substantives.  On  comparing  these  Guanchy  words 
with  the  language  of  the  Touariks  of  the  Great  Desei't,  it 
has  been  found  that  many  of  them  are  almost  identical  with 
those  used  by  that  tribe  to  denote  the  same  things ;  and 
when  we  consider  that  the  language  of  the  Guanches  was 
unwritten,  and  allow  for  the  physiological  effects  of  climate 
in  modifying  articulation ;  and  allow  also,  on  the  other  hand, 
for  the  changes  which  in  the  course  of  centuries  take  place 
in  the  language  of  a  nomadic  tribe,  the  wonder  is,  that  so 
many  of  the  few  Guanchy  words  remaining  should  now  be 
recognized  by  the  Touarik.  When  we  add  to  this,  the  main- 
tenance in  common  of  certain  ideas  and  customs,  such  as 
fattening  young  women  on  milk  before  giving  them  in  mar- 
riage, using  hot  butter  as  a  salve  for  wounds,  their  prefer- 
ence for  a  pastoral  life,  the  absence  of  idolatry,  and  others, 
the  argument  for  a  conunon  origin  is  strengthened.  That 
origin  Avas  doubtless  in  the  great  Berber  family.  The 
"when"  and  the  "how  "  of  their  migration  hither  remains 
to  be  answered  with  such  questions,  as  the  ah  quo  of  the 
ten  lost  tribes,  and  the  appearance  of  the  Asiatic  on  the 
American  continent. 

The  inhabitants  of  Teneriffe  believed  in  one  God,  whom 
they  called  "  Achoran,  the  sustainer  of  heaven  and  earth." 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CANARY  ISLANDS. 


361 


They  worshipped  standing,  lifting  their  hands  towards  hea- 
ven in  sUcnce.  The  natives  of  several  of  the  other  islands 
also,  were  monotheists,  who  regarded  the  Divine  Being  as 
omniscient  and  compassionate,  the  rewarder  of  virtue,  and 
avenger  of  sin,  and  to  whom  they  made  sacrifice  by  pouring 
out  goat's  milk.  The  inhabitants  of  Hierro  recognized  a 
male  and  a  female  divinity,  who  Avere  Avorshipped  by  the 
corresponding  sexes.  Some  of  the  islands  had  image  repre- 
sentations of  the  Deity,  and,  from  this  fact,  ti-avellers  have 
sjioken  of  them  as  idolaters. 

Each  island  was  governed  by  a  prince,  whose  honors  were 
hereditary :  sometimes  two  or  more  princes  shared  the  same 
island,  in  which  case  stone  walls  marked  the  lines  of  the  di- 
vision. When  a  new  prince  came  into  power,  a  few  young 
persons  were  allowed  to  sacrifice  themselves  in  some  mode 
of  death,  to  secure  the  divine  favor  for  his  reign.  The  prince 
showed  his  appreciation  of  their  patriotism,  in  fovor  towards 
the  surviving  relatives.  The  laws  were  just  and  severe; 
murder  Avas  punished  with  death ;  and  to  minor  personal 
injuries,  the  lex  talionis  applied — "  an  eye  for  an  eye,  a  tooth 
for  a  tootli."  The  Guanclies  were  not  polygamists,  and  were 
remarkable  for  virtue.  Ramsey,  the  historian,  tells  us  that 
the  "  virginity  of  every  bride  was  the  property  of  the  king, 
and  that  botli  parties  considered  it  an  honor  when  he  con- 
descended to  claim  his  right ;"  but  this  does  not  accord  with 
other  ideas  and  practices  of  their  domestic  system,  nor  can 
we  find  any  good  authority  for  this  custom. 

Indecency  towards  a  female  was  a  serious  offence  promptly 
punished.  A  man  meeting  a  woman  in  a  solitary  place  was 
to  leave  the  road,  or  to  turn  his  back  as  she  passed,  nor  to 
look  at  nor  speak  to  her.    The  natives  of  Tcncriffe  rccog- 

10 


362 


PEESONAIi  ADVEXTUKES  AyG  0BSEEVATI0N3. 


nized  three  classes  in  society,  corresponding  to  nobles,  yeo- 
men, and  laborers,  and  the  gradation  is  regarded  as  of  divine 
appointment.  Their  -wealth  consisted  in  flocks  of  goats,  on 
the  breeding  of  which  they  bestowed  so  much  successftil 
attention,  that  their  meat  is  said  now  to  be  superior  to  Welsh 
mutton.  They  did  but  little  in  the  way  of  agriculture,  yet 
they  had  wheat,  and  several  varieties  of  pulse ;  they  lived  in 
caves,  or  houses  biult  of  loose  stones  ;  dressed  in  cloaks  and 
shoes  of  dressed  goat-skin,  to  which  the  women  added  a  pet- 
ticoat of  I'ude  woof  in  goat's  hau-. 

The  dead  bodies  of  princes  were  embalmed,  and,  with  the 
nobles,  were  bmied  in  caves.  Several  of  these  mummies 
have  lately  been  found,  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation, 
and  so  light,  that  a  denuded  body  weighed  but  a  few  pounds. 
Their  manner  of  embalming  was  like  that  on  the  banks  of 
the  Xile,  from  ■which  some  have  mfeiTed  their  Egyptian 
origin  ;  but  Blumenbach  has  shown  that  the  conformation 
of  the  skull  denies  the  identity.  Xear  the  town  of  Orotava, 
in  Teneriflfe,  there  are  several  caves  which  contain  skulls  and 
other  bones,  some  of  which  we  have  seen,  but  we  are  not 
competent  to  a  comparative  anatomical  description  of  them. 
Two  were  brought  home  by  one  of  the  officers  of  our  squa- 
dron. Lieutenant  Johnson,  of  Georgia,  and  presented  to  Rev. 
Dr.  Means,  of  the  Augusta  Medical  College ;  and  it  is  to 
comply  with  the  request  of  our  honored  friend,  that  we  have 
been  thus  particular,  and  perhaps  tedious,  in  giving  an  ac- 
count of  this  remarkable  race.  We  owe  the  doctor  this,  and 
more,  but  will  he  not  acknowledge  our  "  one  good  turn," 
by  giving  us  a  note  on  the  skull  in  his  possession  ?  Such 
observations  on  the  facial  hne,  the  capacity  and  characteris- 
tic developments  of  the  cranium,  as  the  doctor  can  make. 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CAJTAEY  ISLAm)S. 


363 


would  throw  much  light  on  the  mental  character  and  anthro- 
pological relations  of  this  extinct  tribe ;  and  thus  let  science 
contribute  her  quota  of  light  on  the  things  of  the  past, 
while 

"  The  historic  Miise  from  age  to  age, 
Through  many  a  waste,  nean-sickening  page, 
Doth  trace  the  race  of  man." 


CHAPTER  ni. 


TENJEEIFFE. 

Approach  to  Santa  Cruz — FisUery  on  the  African  Coast— Catching  Fish — 
The  City — Our  Consul,  Col.  Hart— His  Death — Intolerance  of  Spanish 
Romanism — A  Word  to  Caterers — Character  of  the  Canarian — A  Festi- 
val— A  Day-Dream — Nelson's  Defeat — Camels — Cochineal  and  its  Cul- 
tivation, 

The  white  sails  of  the  fishing-boats  which  dot  the  waves 
in  the  vicinity  of  Teneriflfe,  beginning  at  the  anchorage  off 
Santa  Cruz  and  stretching  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
give  an  air  of  life  and  enterprise  to  these  waters,  and  be- 
speak a  favorable  impression  for  the  island  which  sends 
them  forth.  The  fishing-ground,  which  begins  here,  extends 
to  Cape  Blanco  on  the  coast,  and  runs  northward  along  the 
Afiican  shore  for  five  hundred  miles,  afibrdhig  profitable 
employment  to  the  Canary  islanders,  who  hold  it  in  exclu- 
sive possession,  sustained  by  the  crown  of  Spain.  Along 
the  shores  of  the  islands,  the  fish,  though  abundant,  are 
small ;  but  nearer  the  mainland,  cod,  bream,  and  other  large 
fish,  valuable  in  commerce,  are  taken  in  large  quantities, 
and  hundreds  of  tons  are  annually  exported  hence  to  the 
mother  country :  but  such  are  the  foolish  restrictions,  and 
hea'vy  excise  duties  imposed  by  the  government,  that  the 
fishermen  are  not  the  party  who  enjoy  the  greatest  benefit 
from  this  valuable  fishery.  As  we  float  among  these  tiny 
boats,  it  is  quite  amusing  to  witness  the  wholesale  and  dex- 
terous manner  in  which  the  small  fry  are  taken.    A  circular 

8C4 


TENEEIFFE. 


365 


bag-net,  of  fine  brass  wire,  suspended  from  a  stem-pole,  is 
lovvei-ed  a  few  feet  into  the  water ;  the  fisherman  then 
throws  around  it  a  quantity  of  finely  chopped  fish,  and 
gradually  baits  the  shy  school  into  his  net,  when  a  jerk 
brings  it  to  the  surface,  and  a  dextrous  capsize  throws  the 
silvery  flutterers  into  the  boat.  Hundreds  are  often  taken 
at  a  draught,  mostly  of  the  perch  family,  with  an  occasional 
rock  fish,  and  that  delicate  bouchee  of  epicures,  the  biche-le- 
mar.  At  night,  the  fishermen  keep  fire  in  their  boats  to 
attract  the  fish,  and  these  lights  serve  to  guide  vessels 
coming  in  the  dark  to  a  safe  anchorage. 

We  made  the  land  last  night,  and  put  the  ship  under 
easy  sail.  It  is  now  morning  ;  Santa  Cruz,  situated  at  the 
foot  of  an  inclined  plane,  is  fully  in  view,  basking  in  the 
early  sunlight  like  a  flock  of  sheep  yet  undisturbed  by  the 
shepherd.  The  surface  of  the  country  to  the  east  of  the 
city  is  remarkable  for  its  wild  and  broken  aspect,  it  being 
composed  of  a  group  of  distinct  natural  pyramids,  rising 
from  the  level  of  the  sea  to  the  height  of  several  hundred 
feet,  and  standing  with  as  little  order  of  position  as  if  some 
great  despiser  of  systems  had  thrown  them  together  to 
gratify  his  love  of  disorder ;  or  as  if  this  had  been  the  bat- 
tle field  of  those  angels  who,  quoth  Milton, 

"  Pluck'd  the  seated  hill,  and  by  the  shaggy  tops 
Uplifting,  bore  them  in  their  hands." 

To  the  north  and  east,  the  country,  less  broken,  rises  to  a 
central  ridge,  or  mountain  chain,  which  trends  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Peak,  but  breaks  before  it  reaches  the  system 
which  is  crowned  by  the  giant  cone.   It  supports  an  irregu- 


366       PEESOXAJL  ADTKKTUEES  AJfD  OBSERVATIONS. 


lar  plateau  of  fertile  land,  on  whicli  wheat,  barley,  sugar- 
cane, and  cochineal  are  produced  in  luxuriant  harvests. 

"Our  good  ship  is  anchored,  the  biU  of  health  accepted, 
the  compliments  of  the  commander-in-chief  acknowledged, 
salutes  fired,  and  we  are  aAvay  for  the  shore."  TVe  landed 
at  the  mole  immortalized  by  the  defeat  of  Lord  Nelson  and 
his  gallant  band,  in  1797;  and  proceeding  under  the  arch 
of  the  fort  which  guards  it,  entered  the  city.  The  stars  and 
stripes,  waving  from  a  balcony  near  the  landing,  marked 
the  residence  of  our  consul,  Col.  Hart  ;  we  called,  as  in  duty 
bound,  to  pay  our  worthy  countryman  our  respects,  but  he 
was  too  sick  to  receive  us.  Is  ext  morning,  the  sad  tidings 
came  that  he  was  dead ;  and  that  evening  we  committed  his 
remains  to  a  grave  among  strangers.  A  note  of  the  funeral 
of  so  distinguished  and  worthy  a  citi2en  may  not  be  out  of 
place  here. 

At  5  o'clock,  p.ir.,  a  military  procession  was  formed, 
under  direction  of  Lieut.  Bartlett,  and  marched  in  solemn 
order  from  the  EngUsh  Hotel,  where  the  deceased  had  re- 
sided, to  the  graveyard  in  the  suburbs.  Our  band  and  a  file 
of  marines  marched  before  the  coflSn,  wliich  was  earned  by 
four  seamen,  supported  by  six  pall-beai-ers,  led  by  the  chap- 
lain. The  bearers  were  two  commissioned  ofiicers  of  our 
ship  and  four  foreign  consuls,  resident  in  the  island.  These 
were  followed  by  the  surgeons,  one  from  our  ship,  and  a 
surgeon  of  the  Spanish  anny.  These  were  followed  by  a 
number  of  our  ofiicers  and  Spanish  oflScers  of  rank,  with 
the  foreign  diplomatists ;  then  by  a  number  of  ordinary  men 
in  full  dress,  the  master's  mates  biinging  up  the  rear.  The 
music  and  the  novelty  of  the  occasion  attracted  a  crowd  of 
street  loungers  and  beggars,  who  embarrassed  our  progress 


TEXERIFFE. 


by  their  numbers,  and  when  vre  reached  the  little  inclosure 
allotted  to  EngUsh  citizens  for  burial  purposes,  the  mob 
rushed  in,  completely  filling  it ;  nor  ^rould  they  be  per- 
suaded out,  until  our  thoughtful  captain  of  marines  put  his 
men  through  a  manoeuvre  preparatory  to  firing  the  salute, 
which  the  guilty  crowd  interpreted  as  preparations  against 
themselves,  and  instantly  gave  way. 

So  strong  is  the  popular  opposition  to  Protestantism  here, 
that  it  was  advised  that  the  chaplain  should  wear  his  uni- 
form as  an  officer  on  the  occasion,  rather  than  the  black 
gown  and  white  cravat  generally  used  in  performuig  divine 
service.  To  this  the  chaplain  consented,  in  obedience  to  the 
request  of  his  superior  officer ;  nor  were  his  exhortation 
and  prayers  less  fei-veut  because  made  in  full-dress  uniform  ; 
but  certainly  that  is  a  deplorable  state  of  public  sentiment, 
or  rather,  we  should  say,  of  public  ignorance,  and  priest- 
excited  prejudice,  which  demands  such  a  thing ,  and  that  is 
an  inattentive  government  which  will  alloAv  its  subjects  to 
be  treated  with  such  indignities.  It  is  true,  that,  in  most 
Roman  Catholic  countries,  American  Protestants  may  not 
bury  even  their  highest  representatives  entu-ely  according 
to  their  ovra  fonns;  and  where  it  has  been  done  in  any 
degree,  it  was  by  borrowing  English  chapels,  English  grave- 
yards, and  Enghsh  protection.  Is  it  not  high  time  that  we 
were  demanding  of  such  nations,  in  behalf  of  our  subjects, 
the  same  liberty  in  religious  observances  that  we  grant  to 
their  subjects  among  us  ? 

CoL  Hart  is  known  in  America  as  the  author  of  several 
respectable  works.  He  had  been  for  two  years  our  repre- 
sentative in  the  Canary  Islands,  where  his  able  and  zealous 
measures  for  the  promotion  of  the  interests  of  his  flag,  won 


368        PERSONAL  ADVENTCKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


for  him  the  respect  and  confidence  of  his  diplomatic  brethren 
of  other  courts. 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  compact  city,  of  stone,  prison-like  houses, 
bmlt  in  true  Spanish  style — Moorish,  strictly  speaking — 
containing  a  population  of  twelve  thousand  souls,  and 
abundantly  supplied  with  wind-miUs  and  macaroni  shops, 
imfailing  characteristics  of  Spanish  towns.  The  central 
square  of  the  city,  covered  with  smooth  flag-stones  and  sur- 
rounded by  fine  buildings,  presents  an  imposing  appearance. 
It  contains  a  monument  of  Carrara  marble  thirty  feet  in 
height,  composed  of  a  pedestal,  surmounted  by  a  female 
figm-e,  which  is  surrounded  by  statuettes  of  cherubim,  which 
was  buUt  to  commemorate  the  aiypearance  of  the  Virgin  at 
Chimisay,  in  the  year  1392. 

The  city  contains  a  cathedral,  and  churches  whose  num- 
ber is  somewhere  in  the  "  teens."  The  cathedi-al  is  a  vener- 
able, unsightly,  moss-grey,  tile-covered  pile  of  stone  and 

mortar,  in  the  style  of  but  I  am  forgetting  myself — ^the 

editor  of  a  popular  southern  newsijajjer  says  "we  plain 
readers  are  not  interested  in  church  architecture  and  the 
Uke,"  "What  a  graceless  set  plain  readers  must  be !  We 
commend  us  to  the  clemency  of  His  Holiness  of  the  triple 
crown:  Ora  pro  nobis!  Let  us  add,  howevei",  for  the 
comfort  of  those  interested  in  the  ghostly  welfare  of  these 
sunburnt  brothers,  that  there  are  in  this  city  over  six  hun- 
dred monks  and  priests ;  exactly  one  ecclesiastic  to  eveiy 
twenty,  children  included ;  and  besides  a  nun  to  every  forty, 
for  the  spiritual  comfort  of  the  bachelors.  With  such  a 
moral  police  as  this,  it  may  be  expected  that  the  moral  and 
spiritual  health  of  the  people  is  abundant  and  robust.  It 
may  be  so ;  but  to  our  eyes,  the  moral  developments  did  not 


TENERIFFE. 


369 


reflect  much  credit  on  the  means ;  and,  to  use  a  common 
but  significant  expression,  the  spiritual  were  only  "  as  well 
as  could  be  expected."  * 

Vessels  bound  from  Europe  to  the  Indies  and  South 
America,  make  a  half-way  house  of  Santa  Cruz,  where  they 
stop  for  Avater  and  fresh  provisions,  and  in  former  years 
made  an  addition  of  Canary  wines  to  their  stock  in  trade. 
With  the  English  and  American  cruisers  of  the  African 
coast,  this  is  a  favorable  recruiting  station,  when  their  crews 
have  been  weakened  and  dispirited  by  long  exposure  to  the 
heat  of  the  troincs. 

The  markets  of  meats,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  poultry,  are 
therefore  encouraged,  and  the  prices,  though  in  advance  of 
the  Madeira  markets,  are  not  extravagant.  Caterers  of 
passenger  ships  and  men-of-war  might  lay  in  their  salt  fish 
to  advantage  here,  as  the  cod  is  of  superior  quaUty,  and  the 
tassarte,  when  properly  dressed,  is  said  to  equal  the  salmon 
in  flavor. 

In  coming  here  from  Madeira,  we  were  struck  with  the 
difierence  of  manners  which  exists  between  the  lower  classes 
of  Funchal  and  those  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  the  comparison  is 
favorable  to  the  former.  "  Take  away  all  the  good  quaU- 
ties  of  a  Spaniard,"  says  a  traveller,  "  and  you  have  a  Por- 

•  The  islands  arc  divided  into  two  bishoprics,  which  together  contain 
fifteen  convents,  over  thirty  monasteries,  and  more  than  four  liundrcd 
regular  clergy,  or  priests,  who  have  cures.  The  monks  are  numerous, 
but  more  decent  in  appearance  and  manners  than  those  generally  mot 
with  in  the  dominions  of  Spain.  They  are  even  said  to  be  tolerably 
moral.  One  was  pointed  out  to  mc  by  an  old  Spanish  resident  as  being 
"  quite  a  gentleman."  I  walked  across  the  square,  wiped  my  glasses  and 
took  a  careful  surrey  of  him. 

16* 


370        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


tuguese."  We  dissent  m  totoirom  such  a  definition  of  their 
relative  merits.  The  Portuguese  is  rather  obsequious,  it  is 
true,  and  there  is  an  independence  in  the  bearing  of  the 
Spaniard  of  the  Canaries  which  is  more  pleasing  to  the 
American  taste  ;  but,  as  with  the  lower  classes  of  America, 
impudence  too  often  takes  the  place  of  that  self-respect 
called  independence.  At  present  the  Spaniard  is  the  more 
enterprising,  but  the  Portuguese  is  equally  honest  and  in- 
dustrious, and  more  liberal  in  liis  views  of  politics  and 
religion. 

The  lower  classes  here  are  very  observant  of  religious 
rites.  Every  family  has  its  patron  saint,  to  whom  one  day 
in  the  year  is  dedicated  in  festivities,  and  the  saints'  days 
of  the  church  are  regarded  with  as  much  reverence  as  the 
Sabbath :  though  to  the  credit  of  Santa  Cruz  be  it  said,  the 
stores  are  not  opened  on  Sunday  irntU  the  afternoon,  and 
many  of  them  remain  closed  all  the  day  long  ! 

Our  first  visit  to  this  port  included  the  festival  of  St.  An- 
thony, the  patron  saint  of  the  island.  High  mass  was  cele- 
brated at  the  cathedral ;  the  soldiers  attended  in  full  dress ; 
the  streets  were  thronged  with  country  people,  the  men  in 
best  knee-breeches  and  brightest  vests,  and  the  women  in 
gay  cahco  dresses  and  hooded  shawls  of  Avhite  flannel, 
trimmed  with  white  silk  ribbon.  We  went  to  hear  the 
oration  or  sermon  of  the  day,  delivered  at  the  cathedral  by 
the  most  eloquent  priest  of  the  city ;  but  our  interpreter — 
one  of  our  officers — was  so  taken  with  the  nun-like  costume, 
or  the  bright  eyes  of  the  i>easant  lasses,  that  he  gave  us  but 
little  of  the  discourse.  We  gathered,  however,  between 
our  eyes  and  ears,  enough  to  assure  us  that,  from  the 
American  stand-point  of  pulpit  eloquence,  it  was  dry  and 


TENEEIFFE. 


371 


prosaic.  The  self-possession  of  the  old  gentleman  excited 
my  envy.  He  stopped  at  intervals  of  ten  minutes  to  take 
snuff  and  sci^atch  up  new  ideas — an  ungraceful  gesture,  we 
thought — and  always  resumed  his  discourse  with  marvellous 
freshness.  From  his  success,  we  recommend  these  expedi- 
dients  to  those  brethren  who  are  so  much  opposed  to  "  pre- 
pared discourses,"  yet  so  frequently  at  a  loss  for  ideas. 

The  aroma  of  crushed  myrtle  and  cedar,  and  other  fra- 
grant leaves,  with  which  the  streets  and  churches  were 
strewn,  the  holiday  appearance  of  the  people,  and  other  less 
defined  associations,  reminded  us  of  camp-meeting  and 
scenes  of  true  spiritual  festivity  in  a  State  far  away ;  and 
while  the  preacher  progressed  with  the  glories  of  St.  An- 
thony, we  were  imagining  the  effect  \x\)on  his  unmoved 
auditors  if  Alexander  Means,  done  in  Spanish,  could  pour 
upon  them  his  wild,  torrent-like  eloquence,  or  if  we  could 
call  up  the  finished  and  impressive  orator,  Alfred  T.  Mann, 
or  introduce  Pierce — the  old  man  eloquent — Avith  his  incan- 
descent words  of  revealed  and  philosojjhical  truth,  forcing 
their  way  to  the  heart  like  the  rcl-hot  missives  of  heavy 
ordnance.  Ye  saints  of  paint  and  canvas !  how  these  naves 
and  aisles  would  ring  with  the  shouts  of  spiritual  resurrec- 
tion !  Nor  could  the  potent  Antonio  himself  command 
the  peace.  What  have  these  to  do  with  Teneriffe  ?  Pa- 
tient reader,  they  were  there — not  each  in  pro2yrid 2)ersond, 
but  as  certainly  there,  in  the  memory  and  imagination  of 
the  writer ! 

This  day  is  also  celebrated  as  the  anniversary  of  the  vic- 
tory over  Lord  Nelson.  The  English  flags,  secured  in  cases 
to  the  altar,  are  displayed  to  the  people,  and  the  English, 
and  heretics  generally,  are  blessed  without  stint  or  penance. 


372       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


It  was  here  tliat  Nelson  lost  his  arm  and  seven  hundred  of 
his  men. 

At  midnight,  on  the  24th  of  July,  1797,  he  attempted  to 
land  a  thousand  men  on  the  mole  and  beach  of  Santa  Cruz, 
with  the  hope  of  taking  the  city  by  surprise ;  his  approach 
was  discovered,  and  when  within  range  of  the  guns  of  the 
forts,  he  was  met  by  a  deadly  fire.  Through  the  destruc- 
tive hail,  and  the  heavy  surf,  his  brave  men  pressed  on ; 
many  of  their  boats  were  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  mole, 
losing  men  and  ammunition ;  the  i^owder  was  all  destroyed, 
yet  morning  found  a  resistless  remnant  of  near  three  hun- 
dred in  the  central  square  of  the  city — the  Prado — with 
torch  in  hand,  ready  to  destroy  the  town  and  perish  with 
it,  rather  than  surrender  to  their  enemies,  by  whom  they 
were  now  completely  surrounded.  Knowing  their  despe- 
rate determination,  the  governor  consented  for  them  to 
return  to  their  ships,  to  restore  their  prisoners,  and  to  fur- 
nish them  with  boats  in  which  to  leave  the  shore.  The 
prisoners,  a  few  scattered  companies  taken  on  the  beach 
during  the  engagement,  were  liberated,  but  their  flags  were 
retained  as  trophies.  This  is  the  victory  annually  cele- 
brated here — a  defeat  which  reflects  more  glory  on  Nelson 
and  English  sailors  than  the  victory  of  Trafalgar. 

Camels  are  extensively  used  in  these  islands  as  beasts  of 
burden,  and  in  Tenerifie  they  are  the  main  dependence  in 
transferring  merchandise  from  the  ports  to  the  interior. 
Curious  to  see  how  these  ships  of  the  desert  navigate  among 
hills  and  valleys,  we  started  in  company  of  half  a  dozen, 
with  their  drivers,  for  the  old  town  of  Laguna,  four  miles 
in  the  interior,  but  soon  became  tired  of  their  slow  pace 
and  left  them  behind.   In  gouig  up  or  descending  the  gen- 


TENEEIFKE. 


373 


tlest  slopes,  they  tack  and  veer  like  a  ship  beating  to  wind- 
ward, and  though  quite  sensible  to  kindness  and  flattery, 
cannot  be  coaxed  into  a  quicker  pace,  in  ascending  or  de- 
scending, than  about  a  mile  to  the  hour,  and  if  laden  with 
more  than  five  or  six  hundred  pounds,  groan  and  complain 
at  every  step.  They  are  of  the  Arabian,  or  one-humped 
species,  but  certainly  are  not  "  swift  of  foot,"  like  their  an- 
cestors, "  the  dromedaries  of  Midian  and  Ephah."  They 
are  shaggy,  ungraceful,  yet  majestic-looking  animals,  and 
among  the  stony  roads,  steep  hills,  and  scant  herbage  of 
the  Canary  Islands,  are  out  of  their  native  element. 

Before  reaching  our  destination,  we  turned  into  a  cac- 
tus field,  where  a  number  of  persons  in  pantaloons,  short 
sack-like  gowns,  and  straw  hats,  were  gathering  cochineal. 
We  approached  the  nearest  operator,  preparing,  as  we 
went,  a  few  questions  from  our  small  stock  of  Spanish ; 
but  imagine  the  surprise  when  our  "  good  day "  was 
answered  bj  the  sweet  "  Huena,  Seilor,"  of  a  young  bru- 
nette. 

Dear  reader,  if  you  are  a  very  modest  man  you  can  form 
some  idea  of  our  embarrassment.  We  stood  in  the  pre- 
sence of  a  full-bloNvn  Bloomer,  a  Lucy  Stone  fully  shed — 
we  apologized,  through  our  guide,  for  the  intrusion,  and 
proposed  to  withdraw  without  further  question ;  but  she 
laughed  heartily  at  the  joke,  and  soon  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  hor  companions,  all  of  the  same  sex  and  dress, 
who  laughed  at  our  modesty,  answered  our  questions,  and 
sued  for  a  fee,  wliich  we  met  with  a  hunch  of  ciffars. 
They  gladly  accepted  the  present,  and,  as  we  left  tliera, 
they  sent  us  away  with  a  merry  song.  When  we  reached 
the  road,  the  work  of  dislodging  the  many  thorns  gathered 


374 


PEESOXAI,  ADTENTTJEES  AIsD  OBSERVATIONS. 


in  our  skirts,  showed  us  that,  at  least  in  the  cactus  fields, 
women  have  good  reason  for  "  wearing  the  breeches." 
The  cochineal  insect,  or  cocus  cacti,  is  a  species  of  the 
cocus,  "  a  genus  of  hemipterus  insects,  having  the  snout 
or  rostrum  in  the  breast,  the  antennjB  filiform,  and  the 
posterior  portion  of  the  body  furnished  with  bristles."  It 
is  oval  and  purple,  and  when  fully  grown,  is  of  the  size  of  a 
grain  of  wheat.  The  body  is  marked  with  transverse 
wrinkles,  or  depressions ;  the  antenna}  are  one-third  the 
length  of  the  body ;  the  legs,  on  the  inferior  anterior  por- 
tion of  the  body,  are  black,  smooth,  and  seemingly,  but 
little  adapted  to  locomotion,  and  the  whole  insect  is 
covered  with  a  white,  pollen-like  dust.  To  describe  it  in 
more  homely  terms,  it  much  resembles  a  half-grown  cow 
ticl^  and  when  fii-st  broken,  the  secretion  which  contains 
the  coloiing  matter  resembles  the  blood  (?)  of  that 
msect. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  these  insects,  produced,  doubt- 
less, by  cultivation :  the  grana  sr/lvestria,  and  the  grana 
fina.  The  foiTaer  are  the  small  wild  insects,  and  the  latter 
the  insects  cultivated  for  commerce.  The  males  of  the 
C.  cacti  are  in  proportion  to  the  females  as  about  one  to  a 
hundred  and  fifty,  are  furnished  with  wings,  and  contain 
but  little  coloring  matter. 

Tlie  female  lays  a  great  number  of  eggs,  and  soon  after 
dies,  leaving  the  process  of  incubation  to  the  warmth  of  the 
atmosphere.  The  cactus  cochiniUifer,  upon  which  the  in- 
sects live,  is  cultivated  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  with  a  space 
of  two  feet  between  the  plants  in  the  row,  and  on  a  rich 
light  soil  will  attain  to  great  height,  but  it  is  kept  down  to 
three  feet. 


TENEREFTE. 


375 


The  liarvests  are  three  in  the  year,  for  the  cultivated 
variety,  when  they  are  scraped  from  the  surface  of  the  leaf 
with  a  dull  knife  or  piece  of  iron  hoop.  They  are  then 
killed,  either  by  exposure  to  the  heat  of  an  oven,  or  by 
being  dipped  in  scalding  water,  and  afterward  dried  in  the 
sun. 

The  varieties  of  cochineal  known  in  commerce  as  the  grey 
and  black,  are  produced  by  the  process  of  killing ;  those 
killed  by  the  dry  heat  retaining  the  white  powder  already 
described,  which  gives  the  mass  a  greyish  hue,  and  those 
scalded,  losing  it  in  the  water,  assume  their  natural  purple. 
Two-thirds  of  the  weight  of  the  insects  is  lost  in  drying, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  about  70,000  are  necessary  to  make 
a  pound  when  dry.  Cochineal  has  been  extensively  used 
in  dyeing,  and  although  chemistry  has  supplanted  it  in^the 
lac  dyes,  by  a  cheaper  material,  the  demand  for  it  is  still 
imabated,  and  while  it  commands,  as  it  now  does,  a  dollar  a 
pound  in  the  first  market,  it  will  be  cultivated  with  profit 
in  these  islands. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  capitalists  here,  that  cochineal  can 
be  made  as  profitable  to  the  laborers  and  land  owners  as 
was  the  grape,  for  whicli  it  has  been  substituted ;  but  the 
sun-burnt  isleuos,  whose  smoky  huts  are  scattered  among 
those  desolate-looking  fields,  Avhere  once  the  vine  dropped 
its  fatness,  and  spread  luxuriant  shade  for  the  gambols  of 
their  tawny  children,  and  the  evening  siestas  of  the  sires, 
are  longing  and  praying  for  the  return  of  those  harvests 
when  wine  flowed  in  rivers,  bearing  joy  to  the  poor  and 
gold  to  the  rich  ;  and  when  ibe  light  labors  of  three-quar- 
ters of  the  year  prepared  them  to  harvest  the  fruits,  and 
tread  the  wine-press  of  autumn,  with  songs  and  merry- 


376        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

making,  and  when  the  benevolent  Bacchus  relieved  labor 
of  its  curse. 

"  Nor  ye  who  live 
In  luxury  and  ease,  in  pomp  and  pride, 
Think  these  lost  themes  unworthy  of  your  ear : 
Such  themes  as  these  the  rural  Marc  sung 
To  wide — imperial  Rome,  in  the  full  height 
Of  elegance  and  taste,  by  Greece  refined." 

Thomson. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


TENEIUFFE — C0STI2njED. 

Start  for  the  Peak — Our  Horses  and  Guide — Jar-Carriers  of  Santa  Cruz 
— City  of  Laguna — Flowers  on  the  House-tops — Historical  Associations 
— Population — A  Sacrilegious  Painting — An  Agricultural  District — 
Threshing  and  Ploughing — Backward  state  of  Agriculture  accounted 
for — Is  Contentment  always  a  Virtue? — A  Glimpse  of  the  old  Basaltic 
System — A  Case  of  Conscience  versxis  Appetite — A  Wandering  Jew — 
Ancient  and  Modern  Portions  of  the  Island — Botanical  Garden — Dragon 
Tree — Orotava,  etc. 

Reader,  liave  you  been  in  the  tropics — in  the  tropics  in 
mid-summer,  when  the  sun  of  noon  was  so  exactly  over- 
head that  the  shadow  of  your  hnmortal  self  was  included 
in  the  circumference  of  the  leaf  of  your  straw  hat ;  when 
all  the  pliilosophers  in  the  world  could  not  have  shaken 
your  conviction  that  the  sun  is  a  ball  of  fire,  and  you  per- 
sisted in  the  belief  that  he  is  much  nearer  than  ninety-five 
millions  of  miles,  despite  the  showing  of  your  mathematics  ; 
when  the  "  luminous  atmosphere "  theory  was  answered 
with  a  pshaw !  for  you  felt  fire ;  and  the  aphorism  that 
"  figures  do  not  lie,"  was  met  by  an  incredulous  shrug,  and 
a  "  may  be  not !"  If  so,  yon  can  appreciate  the  heat  and 
brightness  of  the  day  in  August  when,  in  company  with 
Dr.  S.  R.  S.,  the  writer  left  the  dusty  streets  of  Santa  Cruz 
on  a  journey  to  the  summit  of  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  by 
road,  forty  miles  distant. 
Through  the  kindness  of  our  excellent  friend,  Mr.  LeBriin, 

87T 


378        PERSONAl,  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


of  Santa  Cruz,  we  were  furnished  with  letters  of  introduc- 
tion to  Professor  Smyth,  astronomer  royal  of  Scotland,  "who 
was  then  on  the  heights  making  astronomical  observations  ; 
and  to  her  British  majesty's  consul  for  Orotava,  Mr.  Good- 
all.  We  hired  a  guide  and  two  horses  at  the  rate  of  five 
dollars  a  day  and  provisions  for  man  and  beasts,  and  mount- 
ing to  our  crazy  saddles,  at  9  a.m.  took  np  the  paved  road 
for  Laguna  and  Orotava ;  the  former  four,  and  the  latter 
twenty  miles  distant.  Our  horses,  a  bay  and  a  sorrel,  were 
modest,  subdued-looking  creatures,  that  seemed  to  have 
been  trying  the  straw-a-day  experiment,  with  a  bright  pro- 
spect of  soon  joining  company  with  the  immortalized  nag 
of  Walter  Scott  in  the  wide  pastures  of  nonentity.  Yet, 
they  were  the  best  that  could  be  hired  in  the  city.  Our 
walking-sticks  were  soon  in  requisition,  and  indications 
came  early  and  frequently  that  we  should  .both  ride  and 
work  our  passage  to  Orotava.  We  intimated  to  the  guide, 
who  was  owner  of  one  of  the  horses,  that  we  were  not 
much  pleased  with  his  stock,  but  he  assured  ns  that  they 
were  "blooded  animals,"  and  though  not  very  fast,  Avere 
safe  and  docile.  Safe  they  were,  for  they  despised  such  in- 
sobrieties as  cantering  or  fast  trotting ;  and  they  were  obe- 
dient to  perfection  to  the  word  "  whoa !"  What  our  horses 
lacked  in  embonpoint,  Jose  made  up.  He  was  a  stalwart 
^'■isleilo,"  with  the  arms  and  legs  of  a  Hercules,  and  the 
activity  of  a  greyhound ;  unusually  good  humored  and 
obliging.  lie  kept  up  witli  tlie  horses  all  day,  ran  up  the 
hills,  and  whistled  or  sang  along  the  plains,  indifterent  to 
the  rough  roads  and  hot  sun.  Like  his  countrymen,  and 
the  dwellers  in  hot  countries  generally,  he  seemed  to  have 
no  care  for  the  morrow,  and  with  the  prospect  of  five  dol- 


TENEEIFFE. 


379 


lars  and  a  good  supper  at  the  close  of  the  day,  he  was  per- 
fectly happy. 

This  road  is  frequently  enlivened  by  the  scarlet  petticoats 
and  gay  songs  of  the  olive-jar  carriers,  who,  having  de- 
posited their  heavy  loads  in  Laguna  and  received  a  pittance 
for  the  labor,  ai-e  descending  to  their  homes  in  Santa  Cruz 
with  light  heads  and  glad  hearts.  Women  are  used  as 
beasts  of  burden  in  transporting  these  fragile  commodities 
across  the  mountains,  and  the  weight  they  cai'ry,  over  roads 
too  steep  for  wheeled  carriages,  is  astonishing  to  American 
eyes.  I  counted  forty  of  these  earthenware  vessels  on  the 
head  of  one  woman,  and  she,  seemingly,  over  forty  years  of 
age  ;  yet  she  toiled  up  the  steep  hills  with  a  brisk  and 
steady  step,  and  when  at  the  end  of  her  journey  she  re- 
ceived sixteen  cents  instead  of  twelve,  the  pay  for  an  ordi- 
nary load,  she  went  home  to  her  swarthy  brood  with  a 
bounding  step  and  a  cheerful  face. 

Think  of  this,  ye  who,  strangers  to  the  simple  annals  of 
the  poor,  talk  of  the  hardships  of  lif'o  in  the  excess  of  luxury 
and  ease !  Think  of  it,  ye  well  fed,  well  paid,  yet  discon- 
tented laborers  of  the  States,  who,  from  very  abundance, 
forget  the  dignity  of  labor,  and  disturb  the  virtuous  cheer 
of  an  industrious  life  with  restless  aspirings  after  positions 
of  idle  ease  or  corrupting  wealth  I 

An  hour's  ride  brought  ua  to  Laguna,  the  oldest  town 
aqd  former  capital  of  the  island.  It  is  situate  in  a  hollow, 
or  shallow  basin,  of  the  irregular  plateau,  which  we  have 
already  described  as  overlying  the  great  central  ridge  of 
the  island,  and  is  2,220  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
tradition  handed  down  from  the  Guanches,  that  its  site  was 
formerly  occupied  Ry  a  lake  or  pool,  is  confirmed  by  the 


380        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

order  in  deposit  which  the  surface  soil  presents.  The  houses 
are  built  of  stone  and  covered  with  Dutch  tiles,  into  the 
crevices  of  which  the  winds  that  sweep  these  hills  continu- 
ally have  carried  light  soils,  which,  moistened  by  the  humid 
atmosphere  of  this  location,  give  vigorous  life  to  tricho- 
manes — species  of  fern — wall  flowers,  house  leeks  and  other 
plants,  which  grow  so  luxuriantly  as  often  to  cover  entire 
roofs,  and  form  a  striking  feature  in  a  view  of  the  town. 

It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  the  long  and  bloody  wars  be- 
tween the  Gaunches  and  the  Spanish  invaders  were  brought 
to  a  close.  At  a  council,  assembled  on  the  plain  under  a 
flag  of  truce,  the  representative  of  the  Gaunches  asked 
Captain  Alonzo,  "why  he  invaded  their  country  without 
provocation,  and  carried  away  their  cattle  and  their  peo- 
ple?" he  answered  decejjtively,  that  his  object  was  not  to 
conquer  them,  but  to  make  them  Christians.  Tired  and 
wasted  by  the  jirotracted  war,  and  with  the  hope  of  obtain- 
ing rest  from  their  too  jiowerful  enemies,  they  accepted  his 
proposal,  and  the  host  of  rude  warriors  bowed  to  receive 
the  baptism  of  the  church.  It  was  a  fatal  step.  The  sym- 
bol of  new  life  and  liberty  became  to  them  the  yoke  of 
bondage  and  destruction ;  and  Alonzo,  seeing  that  the  tri- 
umph of  Spain  was  now  sure,  sanctified  his  unhallowed 
means  by  building  a  chapel  on  the  spot ;  and  around  it,  in 
1495,  laid  out  the  city  of  Laguna.  The  jiresent  population, 
composed  mainly  of  shopkeepers  and  traders,  avIio  buy  up 
country  produce  for  the  shipping  merchants  of  Santa  Cruz, 
with  a  few  artisans  and  a  swarm  of  idlers,  including  four 
hundred  monks,  numbers  about  nine  tliousand. 

On  market  days  the  town  presents  quite  a  business  as- 
pect ;  camels  and  donkeys  with  well  filled  paniers  of  grain 


TENERIFFE. 


and  vegetables,  throng  the  dusty  streets ;  crowds  of  coun- 
trymen, in  broad-brimmed  woollen  hats,  sporting  cords 
and  tassels  which  hang  down  the  back,  and  coarse  linsey- 
woolsey  small  clothes,  fastened  at  the  knees  by  knots  of  gay 
ribbons,  occupy  the  sidewalks  and  numerous  wine-shops; 
all  smoking  papelitos,  and  all  chattering  at  once,  like  a  flock 
of  monkeys  disturbed  by  the  cry  of  a  jackal.  The  beggars 
are  few,  and  unusually  modest. 

In  the  old  and  well-built  cathedral  there  is  a  painting — a 
copy  from  some  bold  Italian  master — Avhich  shows  the  ex- 
treme into  which  symbolism  will  inevitably  run,  when  not 
held  subservient  to  a  scriptural  and  sjiiritual  religion.  It  is 
an  attempted  representation  of  the  Trinity — we  almost 
shudder  to  write  it — in  Avhich  God  the  Father  is  rejDresented 
by  a  venerable  old  man ;  God  the  Son  by  a  young  man, 
whose  face  is  deeply  marked  with  lines  of  sorrow ;  and  the 
Holy  Spirit  by  a  white  pigeon,  encii'cled  by  a  halo.  Our 
own  Longfellow  could  not  avoid  offending,  in  some  degree, 
the  feelings  of  refined  and  sincere  Bible  theists,  when  he 
represented,  in  the  shadowy  lines  of  poetry,  the  Great  Spirit 
of  the  Indian  by  an  old  man  smoking  a  peacc-iiipe.  Some 
show  of  excuse  may  be  offered  for  the  poet  who  would 
thus  embody  a  legend  of  savage  thought,  but  what  apology 
can  be  offered  for  this  enormous  excrescence  of  a  morbidly 
ovei'grown  symbolism  ?  Who  that  receives  the  decalogue 
as  an  exponent  of  Divine  Will,  can  pardon  so  palpable  a 
violation  of  its  spirit  and  interdictions — or  who  in  Christen- 
dom is  80  ignorant,  so  weak  in  intellect,  as  to  be  assisted  in 
his  conceptions  of  an  omnipotent  and  unchanging  Being  by 
the  picture  of  an  old  man  with  a  grey  beard ;  or  to  gain 
any  realization,  spiritual  or  intellectual,  of  the  Afflatus  that 


382        PERSONAL  ADTENTLTRES  AND  0BSEEVATI0N3. 


fiUeth  immensity  by  a  daub  of  shaded  white  in  the  shape 
of  a  pigeon  ?  They  who  can  profit  by  such  a  representation 
are  not,  rehgiously,  a  single  step  in  advance  of  the  idol- 
worshipping  savage ;  and  to  such,  conversion  to  Mohamme- 
danism would  be  an  elevation.  Yet,  the  venerable  institu- 
tion which  arrogates  to  herself  the  title  of  "  Spiritual  Light 
of  the  World,"  here,  and  in  some  of  the  chixrches  of  Italy, 
hangs  this  brilliant  expression  of  sacrilegious  thought  about 
her  altars ;  and  that  not  merely  as  a  symbol  to  assist  the 
conceptions  of  the  ignoi'ant,  but  as  the  exponent  of  a  defi- 
nite idea  of  the  personality  of  Deity.  Pardon  the  digres- 
sion, dear  reader  !  Our  blooded  na^,  "Ready-to-halt,"  pro- 
gresses so  quietly  uj)  the  gentle  hill  that  leads  from  Laguna 
to  Orotava,  that  moralizing  is  easy,  especially  on  this  sub- 
ject; and  here,  where  the  mighty  mountains  around  us, 
towering  above  the  clouds,  and  the  boundless  vista  of  surg- 
ing ocean,  impress  us  with  the  immeasurable  grandeur  of 
Eternal  Power. 

We  -pursued  our  journey  across  the  high  plains  over  the 
excellent  road  which  connects  Santa  Cruz  and  Laguna  with 
the  hamlet  of  Victoria  and  the  country  beyond.  The  fields 
on  each  side  had  lately  been  reaped  of  a  heavy  crojD  of 
wheat,  and  at  a  farm-house  on  the  road-side,  a  few  miles 
from  Laguna,  we  witnessed  the  operation  of  threshing  after 
the  manner  of  ancient  Egyjit :  the  sheaves  being  spread  on 
a  smooth  floor  of  hai'dened  earth  and  the  grain  trodden  out 
by  oxen.  The  mode  of  i)loughing,  like  the  threshing,  is  at 
least  two  thousand  years  behind  the  age ;  the  plough  is  of 
the  Roman  model,  has  one  handle,  a  coulter  of  wood  tipped 
with  iron,  and  is  drawn  by  an  ox.  The  ploughman  holds 
the  plough  with  one  hand  and  guides  his  slowly-moving 


TENEEIFFE. 


383 


animal  with  the  other  by  means  of  a  long  switch.  The 
gromid  is  thus  farrowed  to  the  depth  of  three  inches ;  it  is 
afterward  cross-ploughed,  and  pulverized  on  the  surface  by 
being  harrowed  with  bushes.  For  sugar-cane  and  cactus, 
the  ground  is  broken  with  an  iron  mattock,  and,  as  in  Ma- 
deira, to  the  depth  of  eighteen  inches.  The  soil  is  rich,  and 
the  climate  highly  favorable  to  vegetation  ;  yet  it  is  every- 
where manifest  that  agriculture  is  conducted  on  the  least 
laborious  and  least  profitable  system.  Everything  that  costs 
money  is  avoided,  as  far  as  possible,  even  in  the  purchase 
of  farming  tools,  and  for  the  reason,  that  the  tillers  of  the 
ground  are  not  the  owners,  and,  insecure  in  their  temporary 
possession,  make  no  outlays  not  immediately  remunerative. 
The  operative  farmers,  as  a  class,  are  very  poor  and  without 
enterprise;  their  highest  ambition  and  hope  are,  that,  after 
meeting  the  exactions  of  landlord,  state  and  church,  they 
may  have  enough  left  to  furnish  the  sheer  necessities  of 
life,  without  thought  of  educating  children  or  providing  for 
the  wants  of  old  age.  When  we  speak  of  their  farm-houses, 
let  not  tlie  reader  picture  to  himself  the  neat  dwelling  and 
surrounding  barns  of  a  New  England  farm,  nor  the  airy 
mansion  of  the  southern  planter,  with  its  cluster  of  white 
cottages  or  log  cabins,  but  a  square  low  building  of  stone, 
thatched  with  straw ;  lighted  by  one,  or,  at  most,  two  win- 
dows, in  whose  broken  panes  the  old  hats  and  cast-off  gar- 
ments of  the  family  do  service  in  excluding  air  and  light. 
The  floors,  like  those  of  the  Irish  peasantry,  are  of  earth, 
hardened  and  polished  by  the  steps  of  many  generations ; 
and,  as  in  the  huts  of  the  "  ould  counthry,"  smoke-stain 
supersedes  the  necessity  for  black  paint  in  hiding  dirt.  The 
destruction  of  the  remains  of  feudalism  in  these  islands 


384        PEKSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


would  infuse  a  new  life  into  these  improvident  and  ease- 
loving  rustics,  and  crown  these  fruitful  hills  with  perpetual 
harvests.  Their  future,  however,  is  not  promising  of  such 
a  change,  for  they  have  learned  to  content  themselves  in 
abjection,  and  even  to  be  cheerful  and  light-hearted  in  the 
position  of  slaves  to  men  of  their  own  blood.  There  is  a 
contentment  which  is  certainly  a  virtue,  and  there  is  a  con- 
tentment which  is  as  certainly  a  vice,  for  it  involves  the 
stagnation  of  progress,  moral  and  intellectual,  and  draws 
its  life  from  the  grave  of  the  noblest  aspirations  of  our 
nature. 

At  a  point  some  fifteen  miles  from  Santa  Cruz,  we  de- 
scended into  one  of  those  inclined  valleys  which,  oj^euing  on 
the  northern  shore  deeply  indent  this  range.  The  denuded 
sides  of  the  valley,  in  which  a  number  of  men  were  quarry- 
ing rock,  revealed  the  system  of  columnar  basalt,  which, 
suj^erposed  by  beds  of  breccia,  tufaceous,  and  ferruginous 
earths,  underlies  the  range  and  plateaus  which  we  had  just 
crossed.  We  gathered  here  a  few  specimens  of  basalt  con- 
taining crystals  of  olivine;  the  doctor  gathered  his  fii-st 
specimen  for  his  Alma  3Iater,  the  University  of  Virginia, 
and  foUo\\ing  his  example  I  gathered  one  for  my  adopted 
mother,  "Emory,"  of  Georgia.  Rising  thence,  we  found 
ourselves  among  decaying  old  vineyards,  and  flourishing 
young  ones ;  cactus  fields  and  cottages,  embowered  hi 
shrubbery,  and  where  bare  stone  walls,  or  straggling  hedge- 
rows of  prickly-pear  and  briers  mar  the  face  of  a  magnifi- 
cent landscape.  The  young  vines,  still  clinging  to  the 
ground  and  laden  with  fruit,  seemed  free  from  the  disease 
Avhich,  in  the  course  of  tlu'ee  years,  has  destroyed  most  of 
the  vineyards  of  the  island.    Our  conversation  naturally 


TENERIiTE. 


385 


turned  on  this  subject,  and  proving  the  correctness  of  De 
Quincey's  obser\'ation  that,  "  he  who  talks  oxen,  mil  think 
oxen,"  we  talked  grapes  and  thought  grapes,  and  at  length 
desired  grapes.  But  how  to  get  them  ?  No  house  within 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  road,  and  no  one  in  the  fields — a 
poor  chance  to  buy,  but  a  good  one  to  steal.  The  doctor 
intimated  to  Jose  that  we  were  out  gathering  specimens  of 
fruits  as  well  as  rocks ;  he  took  the  hint,  and  boimded  over 
the  six-foot  wall  like  a  stag,  and  in  a  moment  returned  with 
a  dozen  bunches  of  rich  purple  malagas,  whose  luscious 
juice  and  slightly  acid  pulp,  were  as  grateful  to  our  parched 
lips,  and  dust-vexed  throats,  as  water  to  travellers  in  the 
desert.  The  eighth  commandment  occurred  to  us  as  having 
some  bearing  on  the  question,  but  we  met  it  -with  a  for- 
tunate recollection  of  a  Jewish  law  which  permitted  the 
plucking  of  grapes  in  passing  through  a  neighbor's  vine- 
yard. Getting  over  the  wall,  in  this  case,  presented  an 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  a  satisfactory  conclusion  ;  but  in  the 
meantime  the  grapes  disappeared,  rendering  further  debate 
unnecessary.  Cases  of  conscience  are  generally  decided, 
practically  at  least,  in  favor  of  the  appetites ;  and  certainly 
nice  points  of  conscience  stand  a  poor  chance  for  a  hearing 
when  grapes  like  these  are  in  question,  the  sun  is  cloudless 
and  vertical,  and  lips  are  sunburnt  and  dry. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  we  overtook  a  lame  and 
heavily  laden  camel,  whose  driver  made  signals  of  distress 
for  tobacco,  or  snuff,  and  Uftcd  his  hands  in  woe-begonc  ex- 
clamations when  he  found  that  Ave  had  neither.  There  is  a 
fraternity  among  tobacco  users  that  is  superior  to  social 
caste,  A  beggar  may  ask  a  prince  for  "  a  chew,"  without 
giving  offence,  and  the  appeal  is  met  with  a  matter-of-courso 

17 


3S6        PEESOXAX  ADVEXTTTBES  AXD  OE5TEEVATIO?r5. 

compliance.  Let  the  reader  elaborate  this  suggestion — 
tobacco  contriboting  to  xmiTersal  brotherhood — and  he  may 
find  a  good_  argument  for  the  use  of  "  the  weed !" 

Further  on  our  road  we  orertook  a  traveller  on  horse- 
back, whose  horse  was  laden  with  two  large  boxes,  one  on 
each  side  of  the  saddle.  As  we  came  up,  he  saluted  us  in 
Spanish,  but  perceiving  that  we  understood  but  little  of  his 
language,  he  proceeded  in  peculiarly  accented  French,  of 
which  we  understood  bat  Uttle  more.  We  gathered,  howe- 
ver, that  he  was  a  Jew,  who  had  resided  many  years  in  the 
provinces  as  a  peddler,  and  was  now  on  a  trading  tour.  On 
expressing  surprise  at  finding  one  of  his  race  in  this  outrot 
the-way  place,  he  answered  f>oetically,  "  the  Jews,  like  the 
winds,  are  everywhere."  He  might  have  added,  and  every- 
where examples  of  industry,  thrift,  and  sobriety. 

We  regretted  that  his  slow  pace  would  not  admit  of  our 
keeping  comj>any,  and  that  we  did  not  better  understand 
his  language,  for  he  was  full  of  that  information  regarding 
the  country  and  its  people,  which  was  one  of  the  objects  of 
our  journey.  .Seeing  that  I  was  suffering  fi-om  the  effects  of 
sun  in  my  fece,  for  I  was  imprudent  enough  to  leave  the 
ship  in  a  uniform  cap  instead  of  a  straw  hat,  he  kindly  pro- 
posed to  give  me  his  umbrella,  and  seemed  sorry  that  I  re- 
fused it. 

Turning  an  angle  in  the  road,  Orotava,  surrounded  by 
green  fiekls,  bursts  into  view,  a  thousand  feet  below  us,  and 
four  miles  distant.  The  summer  vegetation  through  which 
we  have  passed  is  ripe,  and  withering  before  the  dry  hot 
winds  of  August ;  this  around  us  is  still  full  of  sap ;  and  as 
we  descend  into  the  lower  and  more  level  country  around 
the  Orotavas,  it  assumes  a  vernal  fireshness.   This  may  bo 


TEITEErFFE. 


387 


attributed,  in  part,  to  the  protection  from  the  trade-winds 
which  a  large  portion  of  these  lower  lands  enjoy  ;  and,  in 
part,  to  the  occasional  showers  which  in  the  dry  season  fall 
from  the  clouds  which  are  attracted  to  the  ^-icinity  of  the 
peak ;  and,  further,  to  the  streams  which  variegate  its  sur- 
face. "We  are  passing  into  another  region,  geologically 
speaking ;  and  as  we  pass  within  the  circle  of  the  former 
action  of  the  peak,  which  now  rears  its  gigantic  proportions 
above  us,  we  are  changing  the  old  upheaval  system  for  a  sur- 
face which  is  evidently  the  production  of  subiirial  volcanic 
action,  and  which  still  bears  the  freshness  of  its  youth.  On 
the  older  fonnations,  over  which  we  have  travelled,  the 
harder  lavas  present  a  rusty,  decomposed  exterior ;  the  tufa- 
ceous  earths  are  in  some  places  so  decomposed  as  to  have 
formed  a  tenacious  clay,  and  have  long  been  ripe,  though 
still  improving  by  disintegration  and  decay,  for  the  seed  of 
the  sower. 

As  we  approach  Orotava,  the  exposed  lavas  present  a  dark, 
smooth,  and  clean  exterior;  the  scoriaccous  soil  is  black  and 
harsh,  and  though  generally  productive,  is,  in  some  places, 
too  yoimg,  and  too  little  decomposed  to  be  cultivated  with 
profit.  The  dark  and  barren  hills  in  the  rear  of  Orotava 
are  heaps  of  volcanic  cinders  in  slow  process  of  decomposi- 
tion. This  modem  formation,  however,  is  quite  sui)erficial ; 
for  in  some  places  along  the  shore,  and,  as  we  were  told,  in 
some  deep  valleys  not  far  from  the  base  of  the  peak,  there 
are  evidences  that  this  system,  excepting  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  volcanic  foci,  is  underlaid  by  a  continuation 
of  the  older  and  upheaved  system  of  the  island. 

The  city  of  Orotava  is  composed  of  two  towns,  a  mile  and 
a  half  ajiart.    That  situate  on  the  sea-shore  is  called  the  Port 


388       PEESOXAL  ADTi:XTrEES  AIsD  OBSEKTATIOXS. 


of  Orotava ;  the  other,  Orotava  par  excellence,  is  called  the 
"  city."  We  could  not  leam  exactly,  but  suppose  that 
taken  together,  the  population  numbers  about  twelve 
thoiisaud. 

Before  we  reach  Port  Orotava  we  pass  the  botanical  gar- 
den of  which  Humboldt  speaks  so  hopefully.  It  was  esta- 
blished seventy  years  ago,  and  contains  rare  plants  from  the 
Indies,  South  America,  and  Africa.  It  has  received  govern- 
ment patronage,  but,  notwithstanding,  gives  evidence  of 
decay,  and  the  want  of  adequate  attention.  The  object  of 
its  founder,  the  Marquis  de  Nava,  seems  to  have  been  to 
test  the  question  of  the  acclimation  of  plants ;  and  had  it  been 
sustained  ia  the  spirit  of  its  founder,  its  floral  variety  would 
have  been  extensive,  and  light  would  have  been  thrown  on 
many  questions  of  botany. 

Among  the  native  growths  of  Tenerifte,  the  dragon-tree, 
of  the  genus  draccena,  forms  a  striking  object.  In  its  younger 
days  it  resembles  the  Spanish  bayonet-tree  of  the  southern 
States,  but  in  more  advanced  age  sends  forth  long  bare 
ai-ms  from  its  ujjper  portion,  each  surmounted  with  a  crown 
of  bayonet-shaped  leaves.  Its  sap,  when  dried,  produces  the 
dragon's  blood  of  commerce.  The  age  to  which  it  attains 
is  matter  of  conjecture ;  it  is  known,  however,  that  its  years 
are  counted  by  centuries.  One  is  still  standing  in  a  private 
garden  at  Orotava,  which  was  of  its  present  dimensions, 
foi-ty  feet  in  circumference,  when  the  Spaniards  first  visited 
the  island,  at  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century.  To  such 
trees  Pliny  may  have  referred,  when  he  described  some  of 
his  time  as  "  intacta  CBvis,  et  congenito  rnxindo  " — untouched 
by  age  and  bora  with  the  world. 

If  Texas  had  been  nearer,  we  should  have  thought  on  enter- 


TENEEIFFE. 


389 


ing  Orotava  that  the  population  had  emigrated.  The  houses 
were  shut  xip,  grass  flourished  in  the  streets — Bucephalus 
and  Ready-to-halt  pricked  their  ears  at  the  sight — and  after 
riding  into  the  paved  court  of  tlie  hostelry,  -n-e  had  to  wait 
some  minutes  before  the  sleepy-looking  waiter  came  to  take 
our  portemanteaus ;  and  then  he  was  going  to  take  one  at  a 
time,  but  the  doctor  threw  some  very  emphatic  English 
words  at  him,  which  brought  him  to  bow  and  scratch  like  u 
French  danciug-master,  opened  his  eyes,  and  gave  him 
strength  to  carry  aU  our  traps  at  once,  and  canes  to  boot. 
Having  performed  ablutions  and  ordered  a  dinner,  minus 
garlic,  we  turned  out  for  a  walk,  and  to  present  our  letters 
of  introduction  to  Consul  Goodall.  The  city  was  just  wak- 
ing up  from  its  evening  nap.  Mr,  Goodall  was  at  home  and 
received  us  cordially ;  M'alked  with  us  through  the  public 
square,  now  enlivened  with  mantle-covered  figures  of  ladies, 
and  the  rusty  coats  of  moustached,  clever,  half-pay  looking 
gentlemen ;  went  with  us  to  a  Uvery-stable — save  the  mark ! 
gave  us  the  use  of  his  fluent  Spanish,  in  engaging  fresh 
horses  and  guides  (Jose's  "  blooded  animals "  were  too 
" safe") — returned  with  us  to  the  hotel,  and  gave  detailed 
orders  for  provisions  for  our  journey — called  after  dimier, 
and  chatted  an  hour  with  us  over  a  glass  of  ale,  and  other- 
wise served  us  ;  but  most  of  all  were  we  grateful  for  the  cor- 
dial manner  in  which  he  performed  these  oflices  of  kindness. 
At  dinner,  by  advice  of  a  physician — I  saved  my  pledge 
— I  drank  a  glass  or  two  of  Canary  wine,  and  felt 
better. 

Having  to  start  early  in  the  morning,  we  practised  tho 
wise  maxim  "  early  to  bed,"  etc.   The  oppressive  heat  of 


390        PEKSONAI.  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


the  sun,  and  the  rough,  laborious  ride  had  fatigued  us  much ; 
yet,  the  scenery  and  observations  of  the  day  had  enlivened 
my  feelings,  and  I  retired  in  the  bhssful  frame  of  conscious 
gratitude,  laid  me  doTvn  in  quietness,  and  my  sleep  waa 
sweet. 


CHAPTER  V. 


TUE  PEAK. 

Leave  Orotava — Barren  Hills— Goat's  Milk — Breakfast — Stream  of  Lava 
Llano  del  Retama — A  Hot  Ride — Efifects  of  a  Drink — An  Artist  from 
Home — ^Professor  Prazzi  Smyth,  Astronomer  Royal— Ascent  of  the 
Malpays  and  Piton — The  Summit — A  Cheer  for  Old  Virginia — A  Night 
at  Alta  Vista — Our  Hosts — The  Descent — A  Word  of  Advice. 

TuE  clattering  of  our  horses'  hoofs  on  the  i^avcmcnt  of  the 
court-yard  startled  us  from  sound  sleep,  and,  without  the 
usual  parley  with  morning  dreams,  "\ve  sprang  to  the  oaken 
floor,  and  making  a  hasty  toilet,  went  down  to  inspect  our 
caravan  and  equipage.  The  two  guides,  with  blankets  over 
their  shoulders,  were  rubbing  the  sleep  out  of  their  eyes, 
and  the  three  horses,  as  if  holding  their  strength  in  reserve, 
stood  soberly  meditating  on  the  duties  of  the  day,  or 
brooding  over  the  fodderless  prospects  of  their  journey, 
occasionally  moving  their  lips  in  solemn  soliloquy,  or  as  if 
gathering  invisible  oats.  The  prospect  was  not  bright,  for 
either  speed  or  comfort.  Our  guides,  neither  of  whom 
spoke  a  word  of  English,  seemed  as  lifeless  as  the  horses. 
The  leader,  an  old  man  of  fifty,  and  the  driver,  a  tallow- 
complexioncd  boy  of  seventeen,  were  fair  specimens  of  the 
poke-easy  "fs^eTtos"  of  the  interior,  and  we  afterward 
found  them  quite  as  slow  and  stupid  as  their  first  appear- 
ance indicated,  Wc  were  assured  that  there  were  but  four 
other  persons  of  the  place  who  kiiew  the  way  to  the  sum- 
mit, and  they  were  absent,  which  accounted  for  the  carc- 

891 


392       PEESO>-AL  AJDVENTtJKES  A>"D  OBSEEVATIOlfS. 

less  and  independeut  air  of  these,  Humboldt,  in  making 
this  tour  fifty  years  ago,  could  not  find  one  person  in  Santa 
Cruz  who  had  mounted  the  peak,  and  we  in  1856  could  find 
but  two  in  Orotava,  twenty  miles  nearer.  He  adds: 
"  I  was  not  surprised  at  this,  for  the  most  curious  objects  in 
nature  become  less  interesting  in  proportion  as  they  are 
near  to  us ;  and  I  have  known  inhabitants  of  SchaflThausen, 
in  Switzerland,  who  had  never  seen  the  faU  of  the  Rhine 
but  at  a  distance."  He  might  now  add,  that,  even  in  this 
wonder-loving  age,  there  are  adults  who  have  grown  up 
within  hearuig  of  Xiagara,  who  have  never  seen  the  falls. 

Our  provisions  for  the  two  days'  journey  before  us,  con- 
sisted of  a  keg  of  water,  a  basket  of  bread,  cold  meat,  hard 
boiled  eggs,  and  a  few  bottles  of  cold  coflTee ;  these,  with  a 
scant  allowance  of  corn  for  the  horses,  were  stowed  in  the 
panniers  of  the  pack-horse.  The  doctor  had,  besides,  a  flask 
of  some  very  fragrant  fluid,  which  he  carried  in  his  coat- 
pocket,  accompanied  by  a  bunch  of  delicious  Havana?.  My 
nag  showed  a  degree  of  restiveness  when  I  sprang  to  the 
saddle,  which  was  quite  encouraging,  as  showing  some 
of  the  life  in  reserve,  and  I  stooped  forward  to  pat  his  neck 
and  encourage  him ;  but  a  jseep  under  the  pommel  of  my 
saddle  showed  me  that  the  poor  thing  was  wincing  from  a 
very  sore  back.  I  was  about  to  vent  my  disgust  on  the 
senior  Antonio,  when  my  attention  was  called  back  to  the 
doctor,  whose  horse  had  slipped  up  on  the  pavement,  and 
was  now  taking  a  quiet  grunt  on  his  side,  preparatory  to 
getting  up.  He  had  sprained  his  thumb,  and  I  thought, 
from  his  looks,  that  he  was  in  a  fair  way  to  do  scolding  for 
both  of  us;  but  quoting  the  philosophical  maxim  of 
Marryat'3  Jacob  Faithful,  "  "What's  done  can't  be  helped," 


THE  PEAK. 


393 


he  remounted  with  marvellous  coolness,  and  giving  his 
fiteed  an  affectionate  spur,  deep  in  both  flanks,  passed  us  in 
a  trot,  and  took  up  the  van. 

It  was  a  lovely  morning ;  and  to  persons  who,  like  our- 
selves, are  not  in  the  habit  of  dulling  the  taste  by  too 
frequent  use  of  the  luxury  of  sunrise-views,  the  air  and 
scenery  were  unusually  enjoyable.  Attempt  at  description 
would  be  useless,  where  the  pencil  of  a  Raphael  would  fail 
to  catch  one  of  the  thousand  fleeting  shades  and  lints  of  so 
grand  a  panorama :  but  let  us  say  that  the  unclouded  sim 
had  just  risen  above  the  horizon ;  behind  us,  the  sea,  still 
undisturbed  by  the  land-breeze,  was  covered  with  a  light 
mantle  of  blue  mist ;  before  us,  the  peak  raised  its  sublime 
height,  girded  with  a  circle  of  cloud,  and  cast  its  huge 
shadows  far  into  the  sea ;  around  us,  spread  a  varied  land- 
scape, green  in  the  luxuriance  of  tropical  vegetation ;  and 
the  air,  balmy  willi  the  dew  of  morning,  was  redolent  of 
the  aroma  of  flowers,  and  the  fragrant  smoke  of  fagots 
now  kindling  on  the  cotters'  hearths.  The  road  lay 
through  a  narrow  and  unfrequented  lane,  where  our  horses 
showed  themselves  adepts  at  playing  marbles,  by  stumbhng 
among  the  loose  stones  which  covered  it ;  but  we  dis- 
covered, to  our  gratification,  that  as  their  stifl'  joints 
warmed  by  travelling,  they  were  becoming  more  sure- 
footed, and  tlie  chances  were  increasing  for  reaching  the 
summit  witii  unbroken  necks.  We  passed  among  the  hills 
and  fields  of  black  volcanic  cinders,  to  which  we  referred  in 
the  notes  of  yesterday's  journey ;  and  though  we  rode 
around  the  largest  of  these  conical  hills,  we  could  find  no 
evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  tradition,  that  it  once  emitted 
lava.    There  is  no  lava  in  its  vicinity  but  which,  in  its 

17* 


394:        PEKSONAJL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEEYATIONS. 


position  and  inclination,  points  to  another  origin.  There 
are  no  traces  of  a  crater  on  its  apex,  nor  mai'ks  of  lateral 
eruptions ;  it  is  a  homogeneous,  regularly-formed  mass, 
"We  think  Humboldt's  first  impression  in  regard  to  the  for- 
mation of  these  hills  the  true  theory.  He  says :  "  These 
hills  owe  their  origin  to  lateral  eruptions  of  the  great 
volcano,"  yet,  he  seems  to  think  it  probable  that  the  larger 
one,  to  which  we  refer,  may  have  emitted  lava.  It  is 
■  called  montanita  de  la  villa.  A  few  thousand  years  hence, 
these  barren  fields  will  bear  a  fruitful  and  an  exhaustless 
soil.    Time  is  a  cultivator. 

In  this  vicinity  we  met  a  number  of  boys  and  girls 
driving  milk  goats  to  Orotava,  to  supply  their  customers 
with  the  morning's  meal  of  milk.  In  these  islands,  and  in 
Madeira,  there  is  no  danger  of  being  imposed  upon  with  the 
swill-milk,  or  sky  blue,  of  our  cities,  for  the  goats  are  diiven 
to  your  door,  and  the  expert  little  dairy-maids  milk  their 
quiet  kine  before  your  eyes.  We  respectfully  dedicate  this 
hint  to  Mr,  Frank  Leslie,  and  the  champions  of  pure 
cream  in  our  large  cities. 

An  hour's  ride  brought  us  into  a  cool  atmosphere ;  half 
an  hour  more,  and  we  were  in  the  belt  of  cloud  which  sur- 
rounded the  mountain  ;  and  our  appetites  being  now  pretty 
well  sharpened,  we  sat  doAvn  on  a  grassy  bank,  and  made  a 
hearty  breakfast  from  our  well-filled  basket.  We  did  not 
linger  over  it,  however,  for  the  mist  of  the  clouds  was 
gathering  on  our  clothes  like  heavy  dew,  and  the  air  was 
chill. 

As  wc  advanced,  the  herbage  became  scant ;  and  when 
we  reached  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  feet  above  the 
city  of  Orotava,  a  few  ferns  and  liardy  bushes  of  the  thora 


THE  PEAK. 


395 


family  were  the  only  represeutatives  of  vegetable  life.  The 
■woods  of  juniper  and  fir,  to  which  the  observant  Humboldt 
makes  reference,  as  situated  above  the  regions  of  ferns, 
must  have  entirely  disappeared  in  the  course  of  the  past 
half  century,  for  we  did  not  see  a  single  specimen  of  either, 
although  we  ascended  by  the  same  route. 

For  a  couple  of  miles  below  the  plain  of  Retama,  the  road 
lay  over  a  steeply-inclined  bed,  or  stream,  of  basaltic  lava, 
hemmed  in  by  large  masses  of  detached  rocks.  This  bed 
seems  to  have  cooled  suddenly,  yet  without  the  extensive 
cracking  which  generally  ensues  when  large  masses  of  lava 
are  suddenly  cooled.  It  resembles  a  river  frozen,  while  the 
ripple  is  still  upon  its  surface.  Followmg  this  bed,  we 
entered  a  j^ass  which  breaks  the  irregular  chain  of  mountain, 
which  encircles  the  plain,  called  Llano  del  JRetama,  on 
which  the  peak  stands.  This  plain  is  an  uneven  surface  of 
fragmentary  pumice,  so  light  and  dust-like  that  our  horses 
sank  in  it  ankle  deep.  Boulders  of  obsidian  and  basalt  aro 
scattered  over  its  surface,  some  of  which  measure  forty  feet 
in  circumference. 

If  Jupiter  had  been  a  patron  of  fire-arms,  we  might  sup- 
pose his  Vulcans  of  Etna  had  been  here  forging  shot  for  his 
paixhans.  The  plain  takes  its  name  from  the  retama — 
Spartmm  nuhigenum — which  grows  in  thick  tufts  on  its 
surface,  attaining  an  average  height  of  six  feet.  It  is  the 
only  shrub  that  grows  on  these  high  plains,  and  affords 
food  and  protection  to  the  wild  goats  and  rabbits,  which 
are  the  sole  occupants  of  these  silent  domains. 

We  entered  the  plain  at  noon,  and  though  it  is  near 
9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  we  were  fanned 
by  a  constant  breeze,  the  heat  was  exceedingly  oppressive, 


396 


PERSONAL  ADTEXTUEES  AST)  OBSEEVATIONS. 


o^nng  to  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  intense 
reflection  from  the  "white  pumice  beneath  our  feet.  Two 
hours  of  constant  jogging  were  employed  in  crossing  to  the 
base  of  the  volcanic  cone,  although  the  distance  is  under 
four  miles ;  and  when,  on  rising  to  an  elevated  i)ortion 
of  the  plain,  called  Monton  de  Trigo,  we  found  shelter 
from  the  pelting  heat,  we  sat  down  exhausted,  and  almost 
blind  from  the  continued  glare.  The  doctor's  bottle  of 
fragrant  liquid — I  will  not  venture  to  give  it  a  name,  for  I 
am  very  ignorant  in  such  matters — was  applied  to  my  lips, 
and  the  effect  produced  was  instantaneous  exhilaration.  It 
was  a  stray  drop  of  aqua  vitce  from  the  fountain  of  youth. 
The  cool  shade  gradually  restored  my  bedazzled  vision,  and 
I  joined  my  friend  in  a  slice  of  cold  beel^  and  bread  and 
cheese.  While  enjoying,  after  dinner,  the  shade  and  cold 
breeze  among  the  rocks,  and  looking  out  on  the  burning 
plain  that  we  had  crossed,  the  bold  imagery  of  Isaiah, 
representing  the  fuUuess  of  Christ,  rose  in  our  mind : 
"  He  shall  be  a  hiding-place  from  the  wind,  a  covert  from 
the  tempest,  rivers  of  waters  in  a  dry  place,  and  the  shadow 
of  a  great  rock  in  a  weary  land." 

We  pursued  our  upward  journey,  and  in  half  an  hour 
passed  the  Estanda  de  los  Infjleses^  or  EngUshman's  rest — 
60  called  because  the  tourists  of  the  Peak,  who  have 
generally  been  Englishmen,  make  this  their  camping-place 
at  night.  Here  we  dismounted,  and  dragging  our  horses 
with  us,  continued  upward  until  we  reached  the  small  plain, 
or  steppe,  in  the  mountain,  called  Alta  Vista. 

On  mounting  this  plain,  vrc  found  ourselves  within  a  few 
feet  of  a  rough  stone  hut,  covered  with  tarpaulin  and  pieces 
of  sail-cloth.    Near  by  stood  a  man  taking  a  photograph. 


THE  PEAK. 


397 


He  raised  his  head  suddenly  as  "we  approached,  for  we  had 
entered  the  field  of  his  camera.  We  stood  a  moment  in 
surprise  at  finding  an  artist  and  a  house  in  such  a  place,  but 
our  guide,  stepping  up,  explained  by  "whispering,  "  Senor 
Smeet." 

Stand  with  us,  reader,  and  take  a  look  at  him,  while  he 
adjusts  his  apparatus,  for  it  is  the  veritable  Professor 
Smyth  himself,  Astronomer  Royal  of  Scotland,  and  one  of 
the  master  minds  of  the  age.  His  woollen  hat  is  slouched 
and  weather-worn  ;  his  loose  coat  is  soiled  and  sun-burnt ; 
from  one  of  the  pockets  dangles  a  piece  of  coarse  rope,  and 
from  another  the  handle  of  a  hanmier  protrudes.  His 
coarse  shoes  are  void  of  polish,  his  clothes  are  all  in  keep- 
ing, and  hang  about  him  as  if  they  had  been  put  on  with  a 
pitchfork.  He  is  above  medium  height,  of  brawny  frame, 
and  apparently  about  forty  years  of  age.  In  his  person,  he 
reminds  us  of  a  plain  farmer,  or  a  stone  mason.  But  take  a 
step  nearer,  reader ;  look  at  his  thought-marked  Celtic 
face,  his  intellectual  brow,  his  speaking  eye,  the  indescrib- 
able dignity  of  his  mien,  and  you  will  realize  that  you  are 
in  the  presence  of  a  prince  in  the  world  of  mind.  We 
presented  our  letter  of  introduction,  which  he  instantly 
read,  and  gave  us  a  hearty  Scotch  welcome  to  his  highland 
home.  Mrs.  Smyth,  heai-ing  of  our  arrival,  came  from  the 
tent,  and  met  us  with  a  cordial  greetmg;  and  we  very 
gladly  accepted  her  invitation  to  return  to  tea,  and  sjiend 
the  night  with  them.  The  professor,  with  his  wife  and  four 
attendants,  has  been  here  a  month  or  more,  and  intends 
remaiiimg  till  after  the  equinox.  The  elevation  and  clear 
atmosphere  of  the  Peak  of  Tenerift'e  aflbrd  unusual  advan- 
tages in  making  astronomical  observations ;  and  among 


398        PERSONAL  ADVENTFKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Other  interesting  results  of  his  heroic  undertaking,  the  pro- 
fessor will  settle  affirmatively  the  vexed  question  of  the 
emission  of  heat  from  the  moon. 

We  left  our  attendants  and  horses  on  this  plain,  and  tak- 
ing a  fresh  guide,  and  accompanied  by  a  young  gentleman 
from  Orotava,  a  nephew  of  Consul  Goodall,  we  commenced, 
in  good  earnest,  to  scale  the  Malpays,  as  these  heights  are 
called,  in  order  to  see  the  sun  set  from  the  summit.  Traces 
of  road  were  no  longer  visible ;  we  ascended,  springing 
from  one  block  of  lava  to  another,  and  at  no  small  risk  of 
breaking  legs  or  necks.  After  nmning,  jumping,  and 
climbing,  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  we  reached  another 
small  steppe  or  plain,  called  the  Hambleta,  on  which  stands 
the  Piton,  or  cone  of  pumice  and  lava,  which  constitutes 
the  crown  of  the  Peak.  We  stopped  here  to  rest,  and  then 
tm-ned  aside  to  look  into  those  solfataras,  or  vapor-emitting 
crevices,  which  are  called  by  the  natives  JVarices  del  Pico 
— Nostrils  of  the  Peak.  We  had  no  thermometer  by  which 
to  measure  the  heat  of  the  aqueous  vapor  which  escapes 
from  them,  but,  according  to  reliable  tourists,  it  varies  from 
109°  to  127°  Fahr,  Judging  by  the  hand,  we  should  have 
set  it  down  at  150°  at  least.  Two  theories  are  offered  in 
solution  of  this  phenomenon :  the  first,  that  the  sea  com- 
municates with  the  internal  fires  of  the  mountain,  producing 
a  steam  which  thus  escapes :  the  second,  that  the  snows 
which,  in  winter,  settle  among  the  caverns  and  deep  crevi- 
ces of  the  IMalpays,  produce  internal  reservoirs  of  water, 
which  water,  percolating  the  porous  lavas,  reaches  heated 
surfaces,  where  it  evaporates,  and  the  vapors  escape  through 
these  crevices.  The  fonner  of  these  theories  comports  well 
with  the  grand  scale  on  which  nature  has  produced  her 


THE  PEAK. 


399 


works  in  tliis  region,  but  the  latter  is,  perhaps,  the  more 
probable.  The  want  of  unLformity  in  the  temperature  of 
the  vapors,  suggests  to  our  mind  an  objection  to  both.  An 
analysis  of  the  vapors  themselves  may  suggest  a  third,  and 
less  objectionable  theory.  The  ascent  of  the  Piton  was 
exceedingly  fatiguing ;  our  feet  sank  in  the  light  pumice 
ankle  deep ;  the  rare  atmosphere  was  very  cold,  and  irritat- 
ing to  throat  and  lungs  ;  but,  encouraged  by  the  proximity 
of  the  summit,  we  pressed  on,  and  reached  the  wall  of  por- 
phyritic  lava  which  forms  the  brim  of  the  crater.  We 
were  exhausted  and  almost  breathless,  but  the  doctor  had 
strength  enough  in  reserve  to  jump  to  the  highest  stone  in 
the  wall,  and  give  a  cheer  for  "  Old  Virginia." 

The  crater  is  an  elliptical  basin  of  about  100  feet  in  depth, 
300  in  length,  and  200  breadth.  Its  surface  is  pumice,  de- 
composed, and  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  putty  by  the 
action  of  the  sulphurous  acid  gases  which  escape  from  the 
numerous  crevices  which  mark  the  bottom  and  sides. 
Uere,  also,  there  are  crevices  emitting  humid  vapore,  which 
show  a  temperature  varying  from  160°  to  170°  Fahr.,  forty 
degrees  above  the  vapors  of  the  "  Nostrils."  This  would 
indicate  that,  although  further  from  the  centre  of  the  moun- 
tain, they  proceed  more  directly  from  the  place  of  heat. 
From  the  sides  of  the  solfataras  we  obtained  some  fine 
specimens  of  native  crystalline  sulphur,  formed  on  a  base  of 
pumice  highly  charged  with  suli)huric  acid.  The  doctor 
descended  to  the  bottom,  but  llnding  the  surface  hot  and 
damp,  returned  without  delay,  bringing  witli  him  some 
beautiful  crystals  of  sulphur.  The  sun  sank  very  slowly, 
and  fearing  to  be  overtaken  by  night,  we  hastened  our 
bird's-eye  sketch  of  the  plan  of  the  mountain,  and  turned 


400       PEEfiOXAL  ADTES-rCKES  AM)  OBSEEVATIOXS. 


OUT  Steps  downward.  Five  of  the  neighboring  islands  were 
visible ;  but  the  ocean,  more  than  12,000  feet  below  us, 
except  in  the  line  of  the  sun's  departure,  was  obscured  by 
the  gathering  darkness.  The  direction  of  the  wind  here, 
which  was  from  the  southwest,  being  the  reverse  of  that  of 
the  prevailing  winds  below,  affords  proof  of  the  general 
correctness  of  the  theory  of  the  trade-winds  which  Com- 
mander Maury  has  so  amply  and  beautifully  elaborated. 
Having  canied  their  burden  of  freshness  and  life  to  the 
climes  of  the  sun,  they  are  here  returning  on  rarefied  "wings 
to  "  the  store-houses  of  the  north,"  to  come  again,  in  "  the 
circuit  of  the  winds,"  on  their  mission  of  mercy. 

Our  journal  of  that  day  contains  no  soliloquy,  no  attempt 
to  describe  the  scenery  of  those  heights  sublime,  nor  the 
nnutterable  emotions  which  swelled  within  our  hearts.  Our 
minds  were  overwhelmed  with  the  idea  of  Omnipotence, 
and  the  spreading  thought  was  too  big  for  utterance.  In 
those  heights  of  eternal  soUtude,  the  soul  is  conscious  of 
the  presence  of  the  Infinite,  and  all  its  emotions  tend  to  be 
absorbed  in  wonder ;  but  if  the  realized  truth,  "  God  mani- 
fest in  the  flesh,"  be  a  controlling  principle  among  its 
powers,  its  wonder  is  raised  to  rapture,  and  with  Addison 
it  may  exclaim, 

"  Transported  with  the  view  Tm  lost 
In  wonder,  love  and  praise." 

1  venerate  the  high  mountains,  for  they  are  marked  by  the 
footsteps  of  Jehovah,  and  have  heard  the  voice  of  the 
Almighty,  I  love  them,  because  they  have  witnessed  the 
exaltation  of  ray  Saviour.  I  delight  to  scale  their  cloud- 
crested  heights,  and  stand  on  their  silent  summits  in  their 


THE  PEAK. 


401 


unveiled  sunshine.  I  like  to  lose  myself  in  that  sense  of 
immensity  which  unbounded  prospect  inspires ;  but,  like 
the  beholders  of  the  Transfiguration,  I  am  bewildered  by 
the  view  sublime,  and  God,  setting  limits  to  my  utterance, 
sayeth,  "Tell  the  vision  to  no  man." 

On  our  way  down,  we  turned  aside  to  look  into  the 
natural  ice-house  of  the  Peak.  It  is  a  deep  cavern,  into 
which  the  snows,  which  here  fall  abundantly  in  winter, 
are  swept  by  the  winds,  and  owing  to  the  fact  that  it 
has  but  one  opening,  and  that  near  the  arch,  or  roof,  and 
comparatively  small,  the  cool  air  of  winter  remains  un- 
disturbed ;  and  being  well  protected  from  the  sun's  heat 
by  the  non-conducting  lavas  which  surround  its  mouth, 
its  snows  remain  through  the  summer.  In  the  spring,  an 
active  trade  is  done  in  transporting  this  snow  to  the  ice- 
houses of  the  coast. 

On  arriving  at  Alta  Vista,  the  professor  was  preparing 
tea  over  a  spirit-lamp.  The  cloth  was  spread  on  boxes 
of  astronomical  apparatus.  Mrs.  Smyth  did  the  honors 
of  the  table,  and  in  a  manner  which  showed  that  Scotch 
good-breeding  is  superior  to  circumstances.  Conversation 
on  scientific  and  other  subjects  followed  the  refreshing  meal, 
in  Avhich  the  lady  showed  herself  a  thoroughly  read  and  an 
original  personage,  yet  unostentatious  and  ingenuous  as  a 
child.  We  ask  pardon  of  the  professor  for  thinking  that 
she  is  the  more  clever  of  the  two.  Truly  they  are  noble 
representatives  of  the  land  of  Scott,  and  Stewart,  and  Chal- 
mers— a  land  which  for  a  century  has  led,  and  for  more 
than  a  century  will  lead,  the  philosophy  of  the  world,  de- 
spite the  jealousy  of  France  and  the  sneers  of  Gomiany. 

The  mate  and  carpenter  of  his  yacht  were  with  him,  and 


402        PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 

^YC  are  indebted  to  these  noble  tars,  who  would  insist  on 
our  taking  their  snug  bed,  for  a  night  of  unexpected  com- 
fort. The  time  of  the  sun's  appearance  at  this  point  9,400 
feet  above  the  sea,  was  5  h.  19  m.  50  sec. ;  by  observation 
on  board  the  U.  S.  S.  Jamestown,  in  the  harbor  of  Santa 
Cruz,  the  appearance  of  the  sun's  upper  Hmb  was  near  thir- 
teen minutes  later.  The  same  difference  of  time,  inversely, 
might  doubtless  be  observed  at  sunset,  making  the  day  on 
the  Peak  twenty-five  or  six  minutes  longer  than  on  the  plane 
of  the  ocean.  We  spent  an  hour  with  the  professor  gather- 
ing specimens  of  various  lavas,  and  then  took  up  our  jour- 
ney of  descent.  Returning  over  the  second  of  the  two 
routes  by  which  the  Peak  is  accessible,  we  crossed  the 
broken  ridge  which  encircles  the  plain  of  Retama,  through 
the  pass  of  Canada  del  Cedro,  where  we  stopped  to  take 
breakfast,  and  made  a  hasty  sketch  of  the  Malpays  and 
Piton. 

With  this  sketch  and  our  bu'd's-eye  outline  view  before 
us,  Ave  beg  to  offer,  with  becoming  modesty,  our  ideas  of 
the  plan  of  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe.  It  seems  to  be  composed 
of  tliree  distinct  mountains,  the  lavas  of  which  are  distinct 
in  character,  and  in  point  of  age.  The  mountam,  until  we 
reach  the  plain  of  Retama,  we  suppose  to  have  been  the 
first  and  most  extensive  volcano.  The  plain  of  Retama 
rests  in  its  crater,  and  the  broken  chain  of  hills,  over  twenty 
miles  in  circumference,  are  the  walls  of  this  crater.  The 
gaps,  or  passes,  in  this  range,  show  where  its  later  erup- 
tions overflowed,  and  the  inclination  of  the  lava  stream, 
over  which  we  ascended,  shows  that  it  could  not  have 
originated  from  a  higher  point.  To  the  eruptions  of  this 
volcano,  we  refer  the  modern  surface  to  the  north,  east,  and 


THE  PEAK. 


403 


Bouth  of  the  Orotavas,  of  which  we  have  spoken  in  our  last 
chapter,  excepting  the  comparatively  limited  formations 
traceable  to  lateral  and  more  modem  eruptions.  On  the 
western  side  of  the  plaia  of  the  Retama  stands  the  mountain 
of  the  Malpays,  thrown  up,  as  its  exposed  matter  would  in- 
dicate, at  a  period  long  subsequent  to  the  last  overflows  of 
the  great  crater  on  whose  plain  it  stands.  The  plain  of  La 
Mambleta  and  the  Piton,  occupy  the  crater  of  this  volcano ; 
the  upper  crest  of  the  Malpays  marks  the  height  of  its  rim 
or  walls.  Its  eruptions,  doubtless,  contributed  to  fill  up 
the  old  crater,  and  to  form  the  plain  of  the  Retama.  Being 
near  the  western  wall  of  the  first  crater,  its  eruptions  buried 
and  overflowed  that  wall,  so  that  on  this  side  the  mountain 
presents  an  inclined  plane,  unifonn  in  its  angle  of  inclina- 
tion, from  the  summit  of  the  Malpays,  or  wall  of  the  second 
crater,  to  a  point  many  miles  below  the  summit.  The  Piton 
stands  on,  but  does  not  cover,  the  plain  of  this  second 
crater.  It  seems  to  be  the  production  of  the  final 
throe  of  the  volcanic  force,  and  the  eruptions  from  it  are 
comparatively  insignificant.  To  it  may  be  attributed  the 
pumice  and  boulders  which  cover  the  plain  of  the 
Retama. 

The  Peak  of  Tenerifi"e  has  attained  its  maximum  heisht, 
and  such  is  the  superincumbent  weight  on  the  ancient  focus, 
that  its  future  eruptions,  should  it  have  any,  will  be  low  and 
lateral.  The  last  eruption,  which  occurred  in  1Y98,  was 
lateral. 

It  was  interesting  to  note,  as  we  descended,  how  one 
zone  of  vegetation  succeeded  another,  yet  blending  harmo- 
niously. Above,  we  left  the  green  Retama  in  undisputed 
possession  of  the  arid  plains ;  an  interval  of  barrenness  oc- 


404       PEESOXAL  ADTEinCUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


curs,  and  the  ferns  and  hardy  grasses  begin  to  appear.  The 
arborescent  heaths,  the  fruit  trees  and  flora  of  our  own  up- 
lands succeed,  followed  by  the  grape,  the  fig,  the  orange, 
tiU  at  length  we  reach  the  zone  of  palms  and  bananas,  where 
most  of  the  plants  of  tropical  Africa  and  America  may 
be  produced.  Flocks  of  wild  canary  birds  enUvened  our 
tedioos  journey  with  their  sweet  music.  They  are  brown 
on  the  back,  and  of  a  greenish  yellow  on  the  breast  and 
wings.  The  pale  and  deep  yellow  of  their  caged  relatives 
is  the  result  of  domestication. 

"We  reached  Orotava  at  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  fa- 
tigued and  Sim-blistered.  A  journey  of  twenty  miles  up 
hill  is  not  an  easy  task,  but  to  descend  is  still  more  difficult. 
Let  none  undertake  this  journey  who  is  affected  by  any 
disease  of  the  lungs,  for  the  exercise  is  too  severe  a  trial  to 
these  organs ;  and  in  an  atmosphere  such  as  that  of  the 
Peak,  so  rare  that  at  a  thousand  feet  below  the  summit 
water  boils  at  190°  Fahr,,  serious  hemorrhages  are  likely  to 
occur.  At  the  same  elevation,  the  thermometer  is  often  as 
low  as  50''  in  the  month  of  August. 

Taking  fresh  horses  in  the  morning,  we  trotted  briskly 
through  the  clean  streets  of  the  pleasant  little  town  of 
Orotava,  on  our  way  to  Santa  Cruz.  It  was  Sunday,  and 
for  every  reason  we  should  have  preferred  to  "  rest "  on 
that  day,  but  our  leave  of  absence  was  drawing  to  a  close, 
and  we  had  no  choice. 

The  road  was  enlivened  by  peasants,  who,  in  holiday 
attire,  were  passing  from  one  hamlet  to  another,  singing  as 
they  went,  and  saluting  all  passers  with  cheerful  "  good 
day,"  "We  reported  ourselves  "  on  board "  at  3  o'clock, 
having  been  absent  four  days,  and  performed  a  journey 


THE  PEAX. 


405 


whose  incidents  are  still  bright,  and  which  memory  will 
ever  delight  to  retrace. 

A  few  evenings  after,  we  saw  the  Peak  from  the  sea, 
sixty  miles  distant,  robed  in  the  gorgeous  di-apery  of  sun- 
set, calm  and  majestic  in  its  conscious  strength,  a  sUent 
watcher  of  the  tide  of  generations. 


I 


MADEIRA. 


MADEIRA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

MADEIRA. 

Land — Close  Calculation — The  Island  as  seen  in  the  Distance — Nearer  and 
more  Enchanting  View — Loo  Rock,  Brazen  Head  and  Pontinha — Dis- 
tinguished Visitors — The  Anchorage — Going  Ashore — The  Landing — 
Beggars — American  Consulate — Panoramic  View  of  Funchal  and  its 
Surroundings — Convents — Burying-grounds,  etc. 

Through  the  night  of  the  Yth  July,  1855,  we  made  "easy 
sail,"  and  the  dawn  of  Sunday,  8th,  revealed  the  island  of 
Madeira  enveloped  in  a  blue  mist  and  capped  with  clouds. 
We  were  in  the  precise  spot  predicted  for  us  by  our  accom- 
plished master,  Lieutenant  II.,  on  the  previous  evening, 
giving  us  a  beautiful  example  of  the  exactness  of  mathe- 
matical science,  as  applied  to  navigation,  and  of  the  accu- 
racy and  attention  characteristic  of  the  naval  officer  on 
duty. 

We  made  the  land  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  island, 
and  were  soon  carried  under  its  lee,  where  we  found  a 
favorable  and  pleasant  breeze,  which  wafted  us  along  our 
course  for  Funchal  at  a  rate  which  gave  ample  ojiportunity 
for  studying  the  varied  shore  without  wearine*. 

18  *^ 


410       PERSONAL  ADVEJOTEES  AlfD  OBSERVATIONS.  , 

As  the  day  advanced,  the  wind  under  the  land  became 
light  and  variable,  so  we  kept  more  seaward  ;  the  Desertas 
rose  full  upon  our  view ;  and  the  lovely  island,  with  its 
barren  neighbors,  stood  clearly  defined  against  the  orange- 
tinted  blue  of  these  summer  skies. 

As  seen  from  the  southwest,  at  a  distance  of  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  Madeira  presents  a  wild  and  beautiful  picture. 
Its  shores  are  bold  and  cliff-like,  marked  by  dark  caverns, 
and  gorges  depressed  to  the  level  of  the  sea  to  make  way 
for  the  moimtain  torrents.  Its  valleys  are  deep  and  nar- 
row ;  its  plains  and  hills  but  the  variations  of  the  mountain 
sides  ;  and  its  moimtains,  abrupt  and  high,  generally  end  in 
cones,  or  spire-like  summits.  These  moimtains  form  a  chain 
which  rims  longitudinally  through  the  island,  or  in  an 
easterly  and  westerly  dkection,  rising  fi-om  the  western  ex- 
tremity towards  the  eastern,  until  the  centre  of  the  island 
is  passed.  To  the  east  of  the  centre  the  peaks  obtain  their 
maximum  height,  and  are  lost  in  the  clouds  of  heaven. 

At  this  distance,  the  island  seems  floating  on  the  bosom 
of  the  ocean,  its  foimdations  dark,  its  chasms  and  gorges 
marked  by  lines  of  black ;  its  slopes  and  lower  mountain 
sides  present  a  hundred  shades  of  blue  and  green,  beauti- 
fully blended  by  the  hazy  distance ;  while  its  higher  sum- 
mits, piercing  above  the  clouds,  represent  the  magic  isles 
of  the  Arabian  Nights  floating  in  mid-heaven.  The  effect 
upon  the  minds  and  feelings  of  those  who  for  long  weeks 
have  been  gazing  on  the  unrelieved  wastes  of  boundless 
ocean  is  the  most  chamiing  imaginable,  exciting  in  happy 
union,  ideas  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime,  and  in  noble 
natures  calling  forth  emotions  of  gratitude  for  the  beauties 
of  the  visible  creation.    After  such  an  incarceration  as  we 


ilA-DEERA. 


411 


had  suflfered  in  om*  wooden  prison,  in  boundless  solitude, 
the  baiTen  keys  of  East  Florida,  which  we  left  four  weeks 
before,  would  have  been  welcome  to  our  eyes ;  but  now 
that  not  only  land  was  visible,  but  land  arrayed  in  the  sub- 
limest  forms  of  loveliness,  our  hearts  beat  with  a  full,  pure 
joy,  such  as  imagination  alone  had  never  revealed. 

At  3  o'clock,  being  off  the  town  of  Funchal,  we  tacked 
and  stood  in  for  the  roadstead.  Loo  Rock,  Pontinha,  and 
Brazen  Head,  natural  landmarks  to  the  shore,  seemed  to 
rise  out  of  the  water  as  we  approached ;  the  confused  masses 
of  buildings  gradually  assumed  individuality,  and  rose  from 
lilliputian  proportions  ;  trees,  hedge-rows  and  terraces  grew 
distinct ;  the  sun,  so  constant  in  his  shining  in  these  lati- 
tudes, shone  with  the  softened  light  of  evening ;  the  scene 
grew  brighter  as  we  neared  ;  and  to  mingle  life,  that  essen- 
tial element  of  beauty,  with  the  scene,  a  fleet  of  tiny  boats 
was  dancing  over  the  waves  to  meet  us. 

The  health-boat,  bearing  the  Portuguese  ensign  and  offi- 
cers in  uniform,  was  soon  alongside  ;  pratique  was  granted 
us ;  and,  as  the  health  officer  left,  a  squadron  of  brightly 
painted  and  curiously  shaped  shore-boats  surrounded  us. 
We  rolled  on  to  the  anchorage  amidst  the  chattering  of  a 
hundred  tongues  in  unmelodious  Portuguese,  hailing  us 
occasionally  through  the  ports  to  bid  us  welcome  in  broken 
English,  or  asking  for  washing  !  A  few  of  the  more  gen- 
teel in  appearance  were  admitted  on  board,  Avhom  we  found 
to  be  the  representatives  of  various  interests  in  Funchal. 
They  appeared  in  earnest  in  commending  their  houses,  but 
did  so  in  a  quietness  of  tone  and  manner  entirely  new  to 
American  ears,  and  quite  prepossessing.  These,  as  wo  after- 
wards found,  were  mostly  repreaeutaLives  of  Englisli  sl)ops 


412        PERSONAL  ADVENTTJEES  AISTD  OBSEEVATION8. 

or  hotels.  Robert  Bayman,  Esq.,  accompauied  by  Nuno  de 
Cevallo,  Esq.,  favorably  known  representatives  of  the  Ame- 
rican consulate,  boarded  us  while  still  at  a  distance  from 
the  anchorage,  bidding  us  a  hearty  welcome,  and  pressing 
the  generous  hospitalities  of  that  most  worthy  establish- 
ment. The  boatswain's  call,  "  Bring  ship  to  anchor,"  was 
promptly  responded  to ;  and,  after  the  usual  manceuvering, 
the  heavy  iron  fell  into  thirty  fathoms  of  water  with  a  rush 
like  the  falling  of  an  avalanche. 

Who  that  stood  on  the  deck  of  the  Jamestown  that  de- 
lightful evening,  when  quiet  had  been  restored,  can  ever 
forget  the  emotions  of  the  hour,  or  how  we  wished  that  the 
sun  might  delay  his  going  down  ?  The  island  of  gardens 
was  before  us,  clothed  in  its  summer  dress ;  the  aroma  of  a 
thousand  flowers  greeted  us  from  the  shore — 

"  Sweet  as  Sabean  odors  from  the  spicy  shore 
Of  Araby  the  blest." 

Funchal  and  its  surrounding  villas  looked  cheerful  in  the 
departing  light ;  the  sound  of  church  bells  reached  us  from 
the  shore,  with  their  associations  of  home  and  things  sacred  ; 
the  atmosphere  was  cool  and  invigorating ;  and  forgetting 
our  temporary  exile,  we  felt  that  being  in  such  an  hour  is 
bliss.  That  night  the  tea-table  smiled  with  fresh  fruits  of 
two  zones,  and  cheerful  converse  round  the  social  board 
occupied  the  remaining  hours  of  the  sacred  day. 

Morning  came,  balmy  and  bright — such  mornings  as  only 
Madeira  can  have — and  those  who  were  not  detained  by 
duty  hastened  to  the  shore. 

First  impressions  of  jilaces,  as  of  persons,  though  perhaps 
not  generally  truthful,  are  certainly  lasting ;  so  it  is  rather 


MADEIRA.. 


413 


unfortunate  for  our  remembrances  of  Madeira  that  on  our 
first  landing  we  were  beset  by  the  beggars  and  penny- 
catchers  of  the  town,  who  that  morning  seem  to  have  held 
a  mass-meeting  on  the  beach  in  honor  of  our  arrival.  These 
beggars  represent  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  various  degrees 

fledgedness  (fluttering  rags  suggest  the  word),  various 
shades  of  complexion  in  skin,  and  great  variety  in  diseased 
conditions.  They  belong  to  the  genus  Naples — sjyecies 
Portugal — having  all  the  pertinacity  of  the  Neapolitan,  but 
void  of  his  resentment  and  ingratitude. 

There  bemg  neither  pier,  dock,  nor  cove,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Funchal,  the  landing  is  made  on  the  open  beach,  and 
frequently  at  the  expense  of  wet  feet.  When  the  weather 
is  calm,  a  ship's  boat  may  be  stranded  without  much  risk  ; 
but  if  there  is  much  sea,  it  is  safer  to  take  one  of  the  native 
surfboats,  which  may  be  obtained  for  a  trifle,  and  are  skill- 
fully managed.  Going  with  the  momentum  of  the  wave, 
they  run  higli  on  the  beach ;  then  you  must  jump  quick  and 
run,  or  the  succeeding  roller  Avill  reprove  tardy  stei)s.  My 
companion,  Lieutenant  II.,  and  myself  made  our  first  land- 
ing from  the  ship's  boat,  giving  the  spectators  a  specimen 
of  American  jumping — nothing  extra,  however — and  Avere 
received  by  the  beggars  with  open  arms — and  such  arms — 
horresco  re/erens  !  To  get  rid  of  these  was  our  fii'st  essay ; 
and,  after  many  attempts,  and  the  use  of  many  arguments 
and  stratagems,  we  at  length  succeeded. 

Harsh  tones  and  threats  did  not  move  them,  severe  looks 
and  gestures  did  not  awe  them,  entreaties  but  encouraged 
them,  the  distribution  of  a  few  pieces  of  silver  to  the  women 
and  the  more  needy-looking  only  made  the  others  more 
sanguine  and  pressing.    The  children  in  anna  cried  in  rc- 


414        PEESOISTAL  ADVENTUHES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


sponse  to  private  pinches ;  the  little  girls  and  boys  pulled 
our  coats ;  the  mothers  smiled  and  mouthed  alternately  ; 
the  maimed  came  loathsomely  near;  while,  iu  the  back- 
ground, the  horse-hirers  and  guides  grew  loud  and  eloquent 
in  their  demand  for  patronage ;  and  it  was  not  till  we  en- 
tered the  walls  of  the  consulate  that  we  fomid  shelter  from 
the  terrible  storm. 

After  paying  our  resjDects  to  that  most  worthy  of  Ameri- 
can representatives  abroad,  J.  Howard  March,  Esq.,  we 
went  forth  to  see  and  stroll  ad  libitum.  The  attentive 
beggars  were  in  waiting  at  the  gate,  and  continued  to  fol- 
low us  for  half  an  hour  or  more ;  but  as  we  walked  fast, 
the  crutched,  old  and  lazy  gradually  drojiped  off,  until  we 
found  ourselves  followed  by  boys  and  girls  only :  these  we 
dispersed  with  a  few  kind  words  and  an  active  volley  of 
pebbles. 

Strolling  without  a  cicerone,  and  as  fancy  may  lead,  may 
not  be  the  more  profitable  way  in  which  to  see  strange 
l^laces,  but  it  is  certainly  the  more  comfortable,  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  leading  out  of  the  beaten  paths  of  lion-hunters, 
and  often  reveals  a  page  in  the  unwritten  annals  of  the  in- 
digent and  obscure. 

The  streets  and  lanes  of  Funchal,  and  many  of  its  roads 
for  miles  into  the  country,  are  paved  with  round  smooth 
stones  of  compact  basalt,  gathered  from  the  sliingly  beach. 
These  make  Avalkiug  A-ery  tiresome  to  the  unpractised,  but 
contribute  to  the  cleanliness  of  the  place  and  the  advantage 
of  the  horse-hirers.  Most  persons  would  prefer  paying 
twenty-five  cents  an  hour  for  a  good  horse  and  attendant, 
to  walking  •,  but  he  who  walks  enjoys  the  greater  liberty, 
and  in  the  end  will  be  better  acquainted  with  the  places 


MADEIEA. 


415 


visited ;  but  if  au  American — for  we  are  proverbially  poor 
■walkers — he  will  pay  for  the  advantage  in  blistered  feet. 

Soon  we  were  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
town  ;  and  an  hour's  walk  farther,  with  many  rests,  for  the 
road  was  very  steep,  gave  us  an  elevation  whence  we  had  a 
bird's-eye  view  of  tlie  town  and  surroundings,  with  the 
ships  in  the  oflBng,  forming  altogether  a  landscape  of  sur- 
passing loveliness.  Sit  with  iis,  reader,  on  these  emerald 
and  fragrant  heights,  while  we  describe  a  few  objects  in  the 
scenery  before  us, 

Fimchal,  the  capital  of  the  Madeira  group,  is  located  on 
a  southern  exposure,  facing  the  sea,  Avhich  washes  its  foun- 
dations. It  has  the  highest  mountain  of  the  island  as  a 
back-gi-ound,  on  the  foot  of  which  it  stands,  having  high 
ranges  of  hills  to  the  east  and  west,  which  protect  it  from 
the  winds  of  three  quarters,  and  give  it  an  air  of  nestled 
comfort  and  security.  It  is  divided  by  several  canals,  or 
excavated  river  beds,  now  dry,  but  wliich  in  the  rainy 
season — winter — convey  impetuous  torrents  to  the  ocean 
,  below. 

Sometimes  these  floods  produce  fearful  destruction,  owing 
to  their  volume  and  the  momentum  which  they  obtain  from 
the  great  inclination  of  their  channels.  They  come  rolling 
from  the  mountains,  after  an  iinusually  heavy  rain,  Avith  a 
roar  that  may  be  heard  while  the  mighty  wave  is  still  some 
miles  distant;  yet,  so  terrible  is  the  speed  with  which  it 
comes,  rushing  over  the  solid  masonry  set  up  to  inclose  it, 
that  the  panic-stricken  inhabitants  who  dwell  upon  its  banks 
are  often  overtaken  in  their  flight  and  swept  away  before 
its  resistless  force.  In  the  year  1803,  several  large  build- 
ings of  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  in  tlic  vicinity  ofKibfiro 


416        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


de  Joao  Gomes,  were  caiTied  out  to  sea  iu  their  entirety  ; 
and  one  was  seen,  by  the  light  in  its  windows,  to  float  for 
several  hours  on  the  troubled  waters  of  the  bay. 

There  seems  to  have  been  some  attempt  at  system  in  the 
first  plan  of  the  place,  as  the  streets  have  an  inclination  for 
the  cardinal  points,  but  the  engineer  was  not  very  skillful, 
or,  which  is  more  likely,  the  interests  of  the  ground-holders 
were  too  often  consulted.  The  plan  was  probably  made  by 
Joao  Gonjalves  Zarco,  who,  as  a  reward  for  discovering 
the  island,  was  appointed  governor  of  the  greater  part  of 
it,  with  Funchal  for  his  capital.  It  derives  its  name  from 
the  quantity  of  wild  fennel  growing  in  the  vicinity  at 
the  time  of  the  discovery,  called  in  the  Portuguese 
funcho. 

The  buildings  are  not  generally  of  a  style.  In  the  older 
residences  of  any  dignity  the  Moorish  imitation  is  manifest, 
whUe  in  those  of  later  date,  especially  in  the  suburban  villas, 
here  called  Quintas^  the  English  taste  prevails,  and  rules 
also  in  the  disposition  of  "  the  grounds."  The  streets  are 
narrow  and  the  houses  high  and  substantial,  being  built  of 
stone  and  covered  with  Dutch  tiles.  To  one  accustomed 
to  the  light  and  airy  styles  of  southern  architecture  in 
America,  these  massive  fronts  and  small  windows  look 
gloomy  and  prison-Uke,  yet  they  are  comfortable.  Even 
the  poor  of  the  city  live  in  large  houses,  but  these  are  gene- 
rally badly  ventilated. 

At  this  height,  we  have  the  city  as  full  in  view  as  the 
chess  player  has  his  men ;  and  the  most  prominent  objects 
visible  are  those  which  a  resident  will  tell  you— thank  for- 
tune there  are  no  guide-books  here — are  the  most  important 
in  reality. 


MADEIRA. 


417 


Of  these,  the  cathedral,  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  town, 
is  the  most  imposing  in  dimensions. 

It  is  a  large  cruciform  building,  of  several  styles — Gothic, 
perhaps,  predominating— ^weather-beaten  and  patched  out- 
side, dark  and  imperfectly  ventilated  Avithin.  Roman  Catho- 
lic churches  are  generally  badly  lighted ;  the  darkness  is 
doubtless  symbolic,  but  the  significance  of  the  symbol  is 
not  generally  understood,  except  by  Protestants,  who  have 
a  "private  interpretation  quite  satisfactory. 

The  grand  altar  of  the  cathedral  is  a  gorgeous,  rather 
than  tasteful,  specimen  of  gilding  and  carving,  into  which 
are  worked  the  usual  expressive  symbols  of  the  Romish 
religion.  Along  its  grand  aisle  arc  several  smaller  altars 
and  family  chapels,  or  stalls,  comfortably  set  up. 

It  has  associated  interest,  apart  from  its  aspect,  as  a  place 
of  worship ;  it  is  a  vast  sepulchre,  underneath  whose  stone 
floors  and  walls  many  thousands  sleep  in  hope,  under  the 
shadow  of  the  cross  and  the  spell  of  the  significant  words 
"  requiescat  in  pacey  My  informant,  one  of  the  canons, 
told  me  that  the  dead  in  and  under  the  cathedral  were 
more  numerous  than  the  living  of  the  town :  hence  over 
twenty  thousand. 

The  convent  of  Santa  Clara,  from  its  elevated  position, 
is  a  striking  figure  in  the  scene.  It  is  of  the  Franciscan  or- 
der, the  oldest  of  that  order  in  the  island,  and  was  founded 
by  Zarco,  the  discoverer,  whose  ashes  it  contains. 

It  is  better  known  to  sentimental  visitors  and  navy  ofTi- 
cers  (who  generally  abound  in  sentiment!)  as  the  tcni- 
porary^rison  of  the  beautiful  and  fascinating  nun,  Maria 
Clementina. 

Once  during  our  stay  in  Madeira  we  had  tlie  i)lcasure  of 

18* 


418        PEESONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


seeing  this  interesting  lady.  It  was  on  a  public  festive 
occasion,  when  she  appeared  in  public,  as  she  has  often 
done  in  the  few  years  past,  dressed  in  the  habiliments  of 
private  life  and  in  the  company,  of  her  relatives.  She  is 
now  far  advanced  in  "  the  sear  and  yellow  leaf,"  and  wc 
could  discover  but  few  of  the  traces  of  that  beauty  which 
captivated  so  many  in  her  earlier  days,  among  whom,  rumor 
says,  she  counts  a  worthy  and  accompUshed  chaplain  of  the 
American  navy — "  but  hereby  hangs  a  tale."  The  convents 
of  Senhora  das  Merces  and  JEncarnacao^  one  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan order  and  the  other  of  the  Capuchin,  are  buildings 
as  humble  in  pretension  and  appearance  as  we  trust  the  in- 
mates are  in  heart  and  life. 

Acting  on  the  assumption  that  "  might  makes  right,"  the 
crown  of  Portugal  has  taken  possession  of  the  property  of 
these  institutions,  and  measures  for  the  abolition  of  nun- 
neries in  the  island.  The  object  may  be  a  good  one,  but 
certainly  the  means  are  ignoble.  For  several  years  none 
have  been  permitted  to  take  the  veil,  so  that  when  the 
present  generation  of  nuns  shall  have  passed  away,  and  it  is 
evening  time  with  them  now,  there  will  be  an  end  of  con- 
vents in  Madeii'a. 

The  much-admired  feather-flowers,  and  fancy  needle-work 
of  Madeira,  produced  by  these  nuns  for  the  benefit  of  the 
church  and  poor,  show  that  they  are  industrious,  and  that, 
notwithstanding  their  long  seclusion  from  the  world,  they 
have  not  lost  their  sense  of  the  beautiful,  nor  their  sjTnpathy 
with  suffering  humanity.  And  do  they  not  also  indicate  the 
presence  of  these  jjowers  and  sentiments  which,  in  commerce 
with  the  world,  would  have  contributed  to  its  refinement 
and  moral  elevation  ;  but  as  they  have  lived,  do  not  their 


419 


lives  resemble  these  soft  and  beautiful  creations  of  their  skill- 
ful fingers,  beautiful  to  the  imagination,  but  in  reality  dead, 
and  without  fragrance  ? 

The  dome-like  roof  of  the  English  Episcopal  Chapel  rises 
from  the  midst  of  a  garden  of  flowering  shrubbery,  in  a  re- 
tired part  of  the  city.  The  building  is  a  square,  substantial 
and  tastefiil  edifice  on  the  exterior,  but  more  like  a  theatre 
than  a  place  of  devotion.  The  interior  is  so  arranged  as  to 
form  a  hexagon,  having  galleries  on  four  sides,  but  as  the 
floors  of  these  are  horizontal,  rather  than  iuclined,  none  but 
those  occupying  the  front  rows  can  witness  the  performance 
of  ser\-ice.  The  grotmds  within  its  high  inclosure  are  care- 
fully  attended,  and  in  their  eternal  bloom  make  ample  return 
for  the  labor  bestowed.  The  paths  around  the  building  are 
paved  with  a  small  round  pebble,  into  which  smooth  white 
stones  have  been  worked,  forming  appropriate  figures,  which 
might  be  called  mosaic  in  pavement.  This  was  a  favorite 
resort  with  some  of  our  officers  on  aSmiday  afternoon ;  and 
delightful  was  it  indeed,  to  worship  with  its  serious  congre- 
gation, and  after  service  to  linger  for  an  hour  around  the 
sacred  place,  enjoying  communion  with  God  in  nature  with- 
out, and  in  the  richer  manifestations  of  his  grace  within. 
The  chaplain,  Mr.  Brown,  is  a  finished  gentleman,  a  practi- 
cal, elegant,  and  spiritual  preacher  ;  evangelical  in  his  doc- 
trines, as  he  is  practical  and  sincere  in  the  duties  of  his  office. 
The  chapel  was  built  by  consent  of  the  government  of  Por- 
tugal— this  granted  only  through  fear  of  offending  the  Eng- 
lish crown,  and  embarrassed  with  foohsh  conditions.  The 
unchurch-like  appearance  of  the  building  is  one  of  them,  and 
the  prohibition  of  a  bell  another.  These  conditions,  with 
others,  were  prompted,  doubtless,  by    a  care  for  the  souls 


420        TEESONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


of  the  faithful "  on  the  part  of  the  crown.  It  conld  not  per- 
mit the  ringing  of  a  Protestant  bell  in  a  Catholic  city ;  that 
would  disturb  the  minds  of  the  Christians,  and  perhaps 
their  faith,  by  leading  to  the  question  of  "  one  church." 

The  same  care  for  their  morals,  and  the  same  love  invested 
in  soap  and  spelling-books  would  be  commendable.  The 
English  burying-ground  is  near  by,  and  is  worthy  of  a  visit 
and  a  thought.  Here  lie  the  dust  and  hopes  of  hundreds 
who  came  to  these  healthful  shores  to  prolong  life,  but  came 
too  late.  The  mementoes  of  them  here  raised  appeal  to  our 
sympathies,  for  a  majority  of  the  sleepers  were  females,  these 
mostly  cut  off  in  the  early  bloom  of  womanhood,  and  most 
of  them  by  that  slow  tormentor  and  destroyer,  consumption. 
The  yard  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  ornamented  with  ever- 
greens, telling  in  symbolic  language  of  that  immortality, 
whose  hopes  cheered  the  departing  hours  of  the  now  imtrou- 
bled  sleepers. 

There  is  a  violation  of  good  taste  here,  however,  that  one 
is  surprised  to  meet  in  an  English  burying-ground.  Many 
of  the  graves,  in  lieu  of  a  flower-bed,  tablet,  or  other  form 
of  monumental  structure,  are  covered  over  with  lime  and 
stone  composite,  representing  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
cofiin  beneath.  The  sensation  of  walking  among  coffins  is 
irresistible,  and  the  emotion  felt,  one  of  horror  rather  than 
becoming  solemnity.  The  grave-yard,  like  the  chapel,  Avas 
granted  to  the  English  on  conditions.  One  was  that  it  should 
be  placed  beyond  the  walls  of  the  city ;  and  another,  that  a 
corporal's  guaid  should  attend  each  burial  to  keep  order ; 
these  to  be  feed  at  the  expense  of  the  mourners. 

These  embarrassments  have  been  overcome.  The  city 
has  expanded  itself  so  as  to  embrace  the  yard,  and  for  many 


MADEIRA. 


421 


years  the  corporal  and  his  guard  have  been  overlooked.  It 
was  located  by  Consul  Xash,  in  1772,  and  since  that  time, 
through  the  brotherly  kindness  of  the  English  residents, 
many  Americans,  and  other  Protestants,  not  British  subjects, 
have  been  buried  within  its  walls.  Previous  to  that  tinie, 
Protestants  dying  here  were  carried  out  to  sea  and  buried 
in  the  ocean  off  Brazen  Head.  The  Portuguese  burying- 
ground  has  a  spacious  and  beautiful  location  on  a  hill  over- 
looking the  sea,  opposite  Loo  Rock.  Its  neat  front  entrance 
opens  opposite  the  Asilo  do  mendicidade  find  j^resents  quite 
an  imposing  aspect.  The  ground  is  divided  into  large 
squares,  and  these  are  subdivided  into  grave  plots,  each 
marked  by  a  stone  which  contains  its  number.  But  this  is 
too  systematic,  and  where  the  plots  are  occupied  reminds 
one  too  forcibly  of  a  potato-patch.  Trained  along  its  walls, 
roses,  geraniums,  and  heliotropes,  grow  luxuriantly;  the 
borders  are  set  in  box  and  other  appropriate  edgings,  and 
altogether  it  looks  more  like  a  well-kept  garden  than  a  city 
of  the  dead.  A  little  chapel  in  the  centre  heightens  the 
illusion,  for  it  resembles  a  gardener's  lodge  rather  than  a 
temple  of  religion ;  and  as  you  are  about  to  leave,  after  your 
walk  and  musings,  the  sexton-gardener  quietly  obtrudes 
himself,  presenting  a  beautiful  ioitquet,  and  a  gentle  hint  for 
a  small  fee.    You  accept  both,  and  depart. 

But  enough  for  one  coup  d^ceil.  Descend  with  us,  reader, 
from  these  heights ;  the  inner  man  calls  for  something  more 
substantial  than  flowers  and  delightful  scenery  ;  break  a  lance 
again  with  the  beggars ;  sit  down  with  us  to  a  liglit  dinner 
at  Juliettc''s  good  second-rate  hotel,  and  drink  Avith  us,  sons 
of  temperance,  a  glass  of  pure  and  harmless  Madeira ;  and, 


422       PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSEEVATIONS. 


after  health  to  loved  absent  ones,  drink  to  the  memory  of 
hun  who  discovered  this  lovely  isle, 

"  Where  the  citron  and  olive  are  fairest  of  fruit, 
And  the  voice  of  the  nightingale  never  is  mute. 
Where  a  leaf  never  dies  in  the  still  blooming  bowers, 
And  the  bee  banquets  on  through  a  whole  year  of  flowers." 


CHAPTER  n. 


MADEIEA — COXTIXUED. 

History — Population — Procession  of  Miguelitcs — A  Day's  Ride — Modes 
of  Travelling — Horses  and  Burroqueros — An  Impertinent  Question — 
Suburbs — Lavadas — Irrigation — Wheat  Fields  —  Freemason  Horses — 
Mount  Church — Little  Curral — Palheiro,  etc. 

To  the  wine-dealers  and  wine-drinkers  of  the  world,  the 
name  Madeira  has  been  familiar  for  ages.  By  many  of  our 
countrymen  it  is  heard  with  associations  the  most  sacred, 
for  there  many  a  beloved  consumptive  has  prolonged  a 
precious  life,  or  closed,  amidst  its  soft  and  balmy  airs,  a 
season  of  suffering.  This  is  our  reason  for  introducing  a 
sketch  of  its  history. 

Madeira  is  the  principal  island  in  the  group  of  that  name, 
the  others  being  the  Desertas,  uninhabited,  and  Porto' 
Santo,  a  small  island  containing  a  population  of  less  than 
two  thousand.  It  is  supposed,  from  a  reference  which 
Pliny  makes  to  certain  islands  which  he  designates  by  the 
names  Purple  Island  and  Mauritanian  Island,  which,  he 
says,  are  "  over  against  the  Autotolos"  (the  western  coast 
of  Morocco),  "  and  were  discovered  by  Juba,"  that  this 
island  was  knowna  to  the  ancients.  The  geography  of  Pliny 
is  not  as  definite  as  might  be  desired,  yet  this  is,  perhaps, 
one  of  the  islands  referred  to ;  and  to  one  who  has  seen 
Madeira  from  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  tlie  adjective 
"purple,"  as  applied  to  it  by  Juba,  the  discoverer,  is 
peculiarly  appropriate.   This,  associated  ^villl  the  direction 

428 


424       PEESONAI,  ADVKNTUKEB  AKB  OB6EEVATION8. 

of  their  location,  as  given  by  Pliny,  gives  a  coloring  of 
probability  to  tbe  supposed  identity.  In  the  absence,  how- 
ever, of  well-authenticated  accounts  of  the  ancient  dis- 
covery, their  classic  history  must  stand  side  and  side,  in  the 
region  of  doubt,  with  the  charming  romance  of  their  dis- 
covery, invented  by  one  Alcaforado,  and  published  in  Paris 
near  two  hundred  years  ago.  This  we  may  refer  to  in  the 
next  chapter. 

Early  in  the  fifteenth  centuiy,  when  Portugal  was  waldng 
up  to  that  enterprise  in  navigation  and  discovery  which  for 
a  while  gave  her  preeminence  among  the  nations  of  Europe, 
and  which  constitutes  her  strongest  claim  to  national  dis- 
tinction, her  learned  and  energetic  prince,  Henry  IV.,  fitted 
out  several  exj^editions  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the 
terra  incognita  of  the  African  coast  beyond  Bojador.  One 
of  these  expeditions  "was  (in  1419)  placed  in  command  of 
Joao  Gonjalves  Zarco,  who,  in  attempting  to  double  Cape 
Bojador,  was  driven  out  to  sea  before  a  violent  storm. 
Through  part  of  a  day  and  a  long  night,  he  ran  before  the 
furious  gale,  and  in  the  morning  found  himself  nearing  an 
unknown  island,  under  whose  lee  he  found  shelter,  and 
which,  in  honor  of  his  deliverance,  he  named  Poilo  Santo. 
He  returned  to  Portugal  to  inform  his  prince  of  the  dis- 
covery, and  on  returning  to  plant  a  colony  the  following 
year,  was  enticed  from  his  course,  when  near  the  island,  by 
a  fixed  bank  of  clouds  on  the  western  horizon.  Supposing 
these  to  be  held  there  by  the  attraction  of  high  lands,  he 
shaped  his  course  for  them,  and  despite  the  threats  and 
entreaties  of  the  crew,  who  looked  with  superstitious  dread 
on  the  dark  mass,  pressed  on  until  he  discovered  a  mag- 
nificent island,  which,  because  it  was  covered  with  wood, 


425 


he  called  Madeii-a.  The  island  was  soon  colonized  by 
emigrants  fi-om  Portugal.  To  these  were  added  captives 
taken  in  the  wars  of  the  mother  country  with  the  Moors, 
which  were  kept  by  the  colonists  in  a  condition  of  slavery. 
Slaves  were  brought  also  from  the  neighboring  coast  of 
Africa,  and  in  1552  the  slave  population  numbered  2,700. 

The  discoverer  was  rewarded  with  an  extensive  domain 
in  the  island,  and  the  command  of  military  govenior  over 
the  larger  portion  of  it.  He  founded  a  hosi^ital  and  other 
pubUc  charities  in  Funchal,  and  left  to  posterity  a  name 
embalmed  in  good  deeds.  The  population  rajjidly  increased. 
The  vales  and  hill-sides  were  found  to  be  as  productive  in 
grain  and  farinaceous  roots,  as  they  liad  been  in  the  native 
flora;  labor  was  productive  and  jjlenty,  and  unambitious 
contentment  smiled  on  cot  and  cottage. 

In  1566,  the  quiet  of  the  islanders  was  disturbed  by  the 
approach  of  three  French  iirivateers,  Avho  landed  their 
crews  in  the  bay  of  Praza  Formosa,  and  sweeping  down  the 
sUght  resistance  offered  by  a  few  soldiers  and  citizens  in 
arms,  proceeded  to  Fmichal,  and  sacked  it.  The  inhabi- 
tants, flying  in  every  direction,  left  their  houses  and  pro- 
perty exposed,  and  the  invaders,  loading  themselves  with 
money,  jewels,  and  other  valuables,  returned  to  their  ships 
without  destroying  pi-operty,  or  personally  maltreating  the 
inhabitants.  A  vessel  was  dispatched  to  Lisbon  from  the 
opposite  side  of  the  island,  but  long  before  assistance  could 
arrive,  the  piratical  privateers  had  sailed  for  other  shores. 
This  was  among  the  first  troubles  of  the  island,  and  laid 
the  foundation  of  those  coast-defences,  Avhith,  if  properly 
manned,  are  impregnable. 

In  1580,  Portugal  and  its  dependencies  fell  under  the 


426       PERSONAL  ADVENTTTEES  AOT)  0BSEEVATI0N8. 


dominion  of  Spain,  but  in  1640,  under  Dom  Jofio  IV.,  the 
yoke  -was  shaken  oS.  During  the  long  jealousy  and  wars 
between  England  and  France  in  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  the  British  twice  possessed  themselves  of 
Madeu-a,  first  in  1801,  and  again  in  1807.  Their  possession, 
however,  was  merely  nominal,  and  they  justified  themselves 
by  saying  that  France  had  so  little  respect  for  neutral 
powers,  that  she  would  certainly  possess  herself  of  so  con- 
venient a  rendezvous,  if  England  did  not  anticipate  her. 
This  kind  of  logic  is  very  English. 

In  1828,  when  Dom  Miguel  usurped  the  throne  of  Portu- 
gal, Madeira  came  willingly  imder  his  rule.  His  hberal 
policy  won  the  confidence  of  the  islanders,  and  his  eject- 
ment, in  1834,  was  an  occasion  of  sorrow  to  most  of 
them. 

Leaning  over  the  wall  of  the  American  consulate,  which 
looks  into  the  public  square,  we  witnessed,  two  summers 
ago,  a  procession  in  honor  of  Dom  Miguel.  It  was  com- 
posed of  men,  women  and  children  from  the  country,  who 
came  dancing  and  singing  through  the  streets  to  the  music 
of  the  machete.  We  followed,  with  a  rabble  of  boys  and  ^ 
donkey-drivers,  supported  by  a  staff  of  attentive  beggars, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  long  walk,  picked  up  the  sentiment 
of  the  occasion.  The  paity  were  dressed  in  the  native  cos- 
tume of  the  island,  which  is  now  worn  by  the  country 
people  only.  With  the  men,  this  consists  of  small  blue 
funnel-shaped  caps,  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  is 
worn  on  the  crown  of  the  head,  white  shirts  festooned 
about  the  waist,  vests  of  some  bright-colored  Avoollen,  knee- 
breeches,  supported  at  the  waist  by  gay  scarfs,  and  goat- 
skin boots,  which  are  low  enough  on  the  leg  to  leave 


JIADEIEA. 


427 


several  inches  of  the  calf  visible.  The  women  were  dressed 
in  short  petticoats  of  red  or  other  bright-colored  material, 
close-fitting  calico  bodies,  with  short  sleeves,  bright  parti- 
colored neck-ties  over  beads  and  trinkets,  with  boots  and 
caps  like  the  men.  The  short  petticoats  and  well-filled 
bootlegs  gave  the  lasses  of  the  party  quite  a  sancv  appear- 
ance, and  reminded  us  of  some  unfeminine-looking  bloomers 
that  we  had  seen  nearer  home.  Both  men  and  women 
were  abimdantly  bedecked  with  flowers,  and  carried 
branches,  wreaths,  and  palmettes  in  their  hands,  and  as 
they  sang,  swayed  them  to  and  fro  with  enthusiasm. 

Such  parties,  we  learned  from  our  half-dozen  volunteer 
interpreters,  are  not  uncommon;  and,  though  they  are 
generally  so  small  as  not  to  excite  the  jealousy  of  the 
government  ofiicials,  the  sympathy  of  the  lower  classes, 
with  their  liberal  sentiments,  is  deep  and  extensive.  Excuse 
this  episode  in  our  history,  which  we  close  by  saying  that 
the  present  (1857)  population  of  the  island  is  about 
100,000.  Three  months  ago,  before  the  cholera  made  its 
fearful  ravages,  we  might  have  added  twelve  or  fifteen 
thousand  more. 

Mount  Church,  or  the  church  of  our  Lady  of  the  Moun- 
tain— Kossa  Senhora  de  Monte — and  the  Little  Curral,  are 
places  of  great  attraction  to  visitors.  The  Curral,  with  its 
rugged  sides  and  deep  basin,  the  wildly  irregular  depo- 
sitions of  its  volcanic  strata,  and  the  thousand  forms  of 
vegetable  beauty  which  find  luxuriant  life  adown  its  br.ie^, 
attracts  the  student  of  nature,  while  Mount  Churcli  appeals 
to  our  love  of  the  supernatural  in  its  ghostly  legends ;  and 
if  it  does  too  severely  try  our  faith,  compensates  for  the 
draft  on  our  credulity  by  the  attractive  scenery  of  its 


428       PEKSOXAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSEE  NATIONS. 


vicinage.  It  is  situated  on  the  side  of  the  mountain  which 
forms  the  back-ground  of  Funchal,  about  two  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  city,  and  two  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. 

On  a  bright  morning  in  July,  our  fleet  surgeon  and  myself 
stepped  ashore  from  the  surf-boat,  intent  on  a  day's  ride. 
We  landed  near  that  huge  pillar  of  stone  and  mortar,  which 
some  ingenious  Yankee  built  for  the  purpose  of  unloading 
vessels  in  the  bay,  in  rough  weather.  The  modus  operandi 
was  by  means  of  cables,  secured  at  one  end  to  the  top  of  the 
pillar,  and  at  the  other  to  the  masts  of  the  vessel,  over  which, 
in  crates  or  boxes,  the  cargo  was  to  be  drawn  ashore.  The 
scheme,  however,  had  one  fault — a  fault  common  to  many 
Yankee  inventions,  namely — it  wouldn't  work. 

Here,  engaging  a  couple  of  good-looking  horses  and  clever- 
looking  attendartts,  we  mounted,  and  soon  found  ourselves 
breathing  the  morning  exhalations  of  the  dewy  mountains. 
The  modes  of  conveyance  in  Madeira  are  three.  First,  slung 
from  a  pole,  which  is  carried  by  men,  in  a  palanquin,  or  a  ham- 
mock. The  palanquin  is  a  chair  much  resembling  a  child's 
cradle,  suspended  from  a  pole  by  strong  wire.  It  is  much 
used  by  ladies  and  invalids  as  a  conveyance  about  town,  but 
for  long  journeys  the  hammock  is  preferable,  and  lighter. 
The  second  mode  is  in  a  carriage,  set  on  sledge-runners,  and 
drawn  by  oxen.  As  the  roads  of  the  island  are  generally 
too  steep  for  wheel-vehicles  this  is  the  only  kind  of  carnage, 
and  this  was  not  introduced  mitil  about  ten  years  ago.  Cap- 
tain Bulkely,  of  the  British  army,  enjoys  the  honor  of  its 
invention.  It  is  extensively  patronized  by  plethoric  gentle- 
men, and  dowager  ladies,  but  is  emphatically  "  a  slow  coach." 
The  horses  of  the  island  arc  good,  well-formed,  and  sure- 


MADEIRA. 


429 


footed,  and  with  an  attendant  may  be  hired  at  the  rate  of 
two  dollars  a  day. 

Our  hurroqueros — literally,  donkey-drivers — as  those  who 
accompany,  or  hire  out  horses  are  called,  followed  close  to 
our  horses'  tails,  and  kept  up  without  evident  eflbrt.  They 
are  an  enduring  class ;  can  follow  a  horse  over  the  mountains, 
scale  cli3s,  or  descend  ledges  to  gather  specimens  for  senhor, 
and  then  dance  till  midnight.  Between  them  and  their 
horses  there  is  perfect  understanding:  certain  jerks  of  the 
tail  regulate  the  speed  of  the  animal,  nor  can  he  be  induced 
to  travel  on  quietly  if  his  master  is  far  behind. 

The  road  from  Funchal  t  o  the  church  rises,  on  the  aver- 
age, to  an  angle  of  15°  with  the  horizon,  but  in  some  places 
it  rises  to  30°.  Here  we  found  the  riding  impleasant,  and 
were  often  compelled  to  the  unhorsemanlike  resort  of  hold- 
ing to  the  mane  with  both  hands.  In  scaling  one  of  the 
steeps,  with  my  head  close  to  the  horse's  ears,  and  my  heels 
sticking  up,  rather  imgracefully,  behind,  my  companion 
wanted  to  know  if  that  was  a  specimen  of  the  fine  horseman- 
ship for  which  Methodist  circuit-riders  are  celebrated.  I 
replied  that  our  thoughts  were  quite  coincident,  for  I  was 
just  then  thinking  of  a  steep  road,  by  which  I  used  to  cross 
the  Pine  Mountains,  on  the  old  Pike  circuit  in  Georgia ;  but 
that  being,  at  that  time,  inspired  with  nobler  purposes  than 
at  present,  I  could  better  afford  to  hold  np  my  head.  For 
the  sake  of  the  corps  itinerant  he  hoped  it  was  so,  for  such 
displays  of  one's  person  as  I  was  then  making  were  not  cal- 
culated to  inspire  the  brethren  with  reverence  for  their 
preacher. 

Our  road  was  bounded  on  both  sides  by  high  walls,  over 
which  hung  geraniums,  heliotropes,  and  fuschias,  pumpkins. 


430        PEK80NAL  ADVENTTJBES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 

granadillas — may-pops  of  the  south — and  other  vines  in  great 
luxuriance.  The  mountain-sides  are  terraced,  and  divided 
into  small  plots  by  substantial  walls.  Almost  every  garden 
has  its  cot  of  stone,  thatched  with  straw  or  grass,  and  in  it 
the  usual  blessing  of  the  poor  man,  a  quiverful  of  children. 
Every  inch  of  these  plots  was  occupied  by  some  useful  vege- 
table or  flower ;  sweet  potatoes,  several  varieties  of  pulse, 
and  sugar-cane  being  the  staple  articles ;  and  near  the  water 
courses  the  yam  of  Madeira,  arum  colocasia  or  arum  es- 
culentum,  spread  its  broad  leaves  of  shiny  green.  It  was 
now  the  heat  of  midsummer,  yet  the  ground  was  matted 
over  with  vegetation,  and  the  Uttle  cots  were  scarcely  visi- 
ble through  their  surroundings  of  banana  and  orange.  A 
short  ride  brought  us  to  the  Lavada — the  artery  which  con- 
tains the  life-blood  of  the  plains  below.  Introducing  here 
some  observations  subsequently  made  on  this  system  of 
watering,  I  shall  answer  some  questions  proposed  by  ray 
friend  President  Thomas,  of  Emory,  and  others,  regarding 
irrigation. 

The  Lavada  is  a  stream  of  spring  water,  caught  as  it  leaps 
down  the  mountain,  at  a  point  several  miles  from  Funchal. 
It  is  conducted  around  the  breast  of  the  mountain  in  a  trough 
of  solid  masonry,  which  has  just  inclination  enough  to  keep 
the  water  in  motion,  dividing  on  its  way  into  veins,  which 
themselves  divide,  and  sub-divide,  and  ramify,  in  their  down- 
ward course,  until  every  little  field  and  patch,  in  a  surface 
of  many  miles,  is  supplied  -with  its  little  life-giver ;  so  that, 
could  the  irrigation  system  about  the  city  be  presented  on 
paper,  it  would  represent  a  net-work,  over  the  face  of  the 
country,  of  astonishing  complexity  and  beauty.  There  are 
no  floodgates,  or  other  mechanical  contrivance  to  shut  off 


MADEIRA. 


431 


the  water  at  the  junction  of  the  various  branches,  other  than 
a  few  stones  backed  by  a  spadeful  of  soil,  or  a  sod  of  grass. 
A  Yankee  would  have  something  more  "  handy."  For  this 
water  a  rent  is  paid  by  the  ground-holders,  which,  in  any 
part  of  our  country,  would  be  considered  a  large  price  for 
the  land  itself ;  and  when  sale  is  made,  a  separate  deed,  se- 
curing the  privilege  of  water,  when  paid  for,  is  transmitted 
with  the  title  to  the  real  estate.  Some  of  the  most  impor- 
tant lawsuits  that  have  troubled  the  courts  of  the  island  have 
been  in  regard  to  water-privileges.  To  the  more  productive 
of  these  fields  water  is  given  as  often  as  twice  in  the  week, 
and,  as  near  as  we  could  judge,  without  actual  measurement, 
in  quantities  equal  to  an  inch  deep  over  the  producing  sur- 
face. The  time  for  watering  is  the  evening.  The  stone 
gutter  which  conveys  the  water  discharges  it  at  the  highest 
point  of  the  plot,  and  thence  it  is  conducted  by  the  hoe,  not 
immediately  to  the  roots  of  the  plants,  but  between  the 
rows. 

The  soil  of  Madeira  is  a  tufa — i.  e.  decomposed  volcanic 
cinders  and  other  igneous  matter — and  is  of  many  shades; 
of  red  and  grey  mainly,  in  j)roportion  to  the  quantity  of 
oxydized  iron  which  it  contains.  Substrata  of  a  modern  clay 
are  frequently  met  with,  resulting  from  the  decomposition 
of  the  red  tufa.  This  is  naturally  a  tliirsty  soil,  and  wlien 
we  add  to  this  the  fact,  that  but  little  rain  falls  between 
April  and  September,  it  will  be  seen  how  indispensable  this 
system  is  for  the  production  of  food  for  this  excessive  popu- 
lation, and  how  the  art  of  man  has  supplied  the  deficiencies 
of  nature,  and  commanded  stones  to  be  made  bread.  There 
are  other  parts  of  the  island  in  which  irrigation  is  carried  on 
extensively,  even  where  there  are  no  streams.    Stone  reser- 


432        PEESOXAi  ADVEmrRES  A^TD  OBSEBTATIOXS. 


voirs  are  built,  which  are  filled  in  the  winter,  or  rainy  sea- 
son, and  distributed,  as  we  have  described  abore,  in  the 
summer.  In  looking  down  upon  these  fertile  terraces,  vi- 
sions of  imtold  acres  of  sassafi^  and  broom-sedge  wastes,  in 
our  own  beloved  State,  floated  before  us  ;  wastes,  which  but 
a  little  outlay  of  genius  and  capital,  in  turning  neighboring 
streams  or  springs  over  them,  would  convert  into  fruitftd 
field-s.  That  would  be  a  pin-hook  business,  replies  one. 
Well,  be  it  so.  Friend  Cottonbales.  We  have  yet  to  learn 
that  "  a  little  fiirm  well  tilled,  gives  a  big  crib  well  tilled." 

Mount  Church  is  still  before  us.  Another  thousand  feet 
is  scaled  amid  the  barking  of  dogs,  and  the  chatter  of  chil- 
dren, who  lean  over  the  walls  to  beg  from  us  as  we  pass. 
We  are  in  another  zone  of  vegetation,  the  banana  and  the 
orange  are  giving  place  to  the  pear,  the  apple,  and  the 
plum,  and  other  familiar  growths.  Here  we  rested  for  a 
while,  and  walked  through  the  beautiful  grotmds  of  the 
widow  of  the  ex-governor.  Her  quinta,  like  most  of  the 
suburban  villas,  is  of  one  story,  and  in  a  style  which  reminded 
us  of  the  better  class  of  houses  in  the  southern  States,  but 
because  of  the  thickness  of  the  stone  walls  this  is  more  cool 
in  summer,  and  warmer  in  winter,  than  ours.  Here  we  are 
in  the  midst  of  wheat-patches  now  ripe,  which  wiU  yield  25 
or  SO  bushels  to  the  acre  on  an  average.  We  observed  a 
little  variety  in  the  wheat  of  the  several  districts  through 
which  we  passed,  but  most  of  it  resembles  that  quality  which 
we  call  Madeira.  If  I  mistake  not,  this  term  is  apphed  in 
Georgia  to  several  varieties  of  red  wheat.  The  beard  of  the 
Madeira  wheat  is  so  long  that  I  have  often  mistaken  it  for 
barley  at  a  short  dLstanee ;  the  grain  is  large  and  long,  yield- 
ing much  bran,  and  a  sweet  but  dark  flour.   As  we  ascend. 


MADEIRA. 


433 


the  fields  are  larger,  cots  smaller,  and  people  poorer  in  ap- 
pearance. The  fig-bearing  cactus  (prickly  pear),  is  here 
cultivated  for  its  fruit,  ■w  liich  forms  a  large  portion  of  the 
food  of  the  peasantry  ;  and  the  blackberry — native  of  all  cli- 
mates— covers  ditch  and  wall. 

At  a  little  hovel  on  the  road-side,  our  horses  came  to  an 
unbidden  halt,  and  threw  back  their  cars  with  a  "  no  go  " 
expression.  We  paused  for  a  reply,  when  the  burroqueros 
coming  up,  gave  us  a  clue  to  the  movement,  by  asking  for 
wine :  "  vinho,  scnhor !"  and  as  they  spoke,  a  little  dirty- 
faced  tapster  appeared  at  the  door,  with  bottle  and  glass  in 
hand.  It  was  impossible  to  refuse  so  well-sustained  an  ap- 
peal, so  we  treated.  The  lads  drank  healths  to  us  gracefully, 
and  turned  ofi"  the  sour  stuflT  at  a  gulp  ;  then  M-itliout  wait- 
ing for  spur  or  chirp,  our  horses  moved  on.  Ileader,  if  you 
are  a  freemason,  you  may  be  able  to  understand  how  the 
master  thus  communicates  with  his  horse,  though  out  of 
eight. 

The  church  is  large,  and  presents  to  the  road  a  gable-end, 
surmounted  by  two  square  towers,  in  which  hang  several 
bells.  It  is  devoid  of  architectural  beauty,  as  it  should  be, 
for  in  the  midst  of  scenery  so  grand,  St.  Peter's  would  at- 
tract no  attention.  Leagues  of  terraced  hill-sides  spread 
their  carpets  of  shaded  green  in  every  direction  below  us ; 
beautiful  country  seats  marked  the  landscape  with  tasteful 
life;  here  and  there  the  thatch  and  smoke  of  humble  cots 
rose  above  the  dense  shrubbery  that  would  bury  them ; 
Funchal,  populous  and  noisy,  seemed  slumbering  in  the  dis- 
tance, secure,  like  Jerusalem,  amid  its  hilly  bulwarks;  and 
to  the  east,  the  west,  and  the  south,  the  silent  expanse  of 
Atlantic  spreads  its  eternal  blue.    After  feasting  eye  and 


434:       PEESOXAL  ADVEin-UKES  A^^)  OBSEETATIOXS. 

soiil  on  the  richness  of  a  landscape  so  full  of  varied  beauty, 
how  tame  appeared  the  tawdry  tinsel  of  the  church,  and  its 
little  altar,  not  excepting  the  large  lamp  of  solid  silver  sus- 
pended in  the  aisle. 

The  church  was  built  in  honor  of  the  saintly  patroness  of 
the  mountains,  who,  it  is  said,  has  bestowed  many  favors  on 
the  inhabitants.  It  is  related  that,  on  an  occasion  when  the 
famine-stricken  inhabitants  were  awaiting  the  arrival  of  a 
cargo  of  grain  from  Lisbon,  many  of  the  laithfiil  obeyed  a 
call  to  prayer,  to  intercede  with  Om-  Lady,  and  that  while 
they  prayed,  it  was  discovered  that  the  clothes  of  her  image 
were  wet  with  saltwater,  and  that  next  morning  tluj  vessel 
was  in  the  harbor.  The  phenomenon  of  the  wet  clothes  was 
explained  by  one  of  the  sailors  of  the  ship,  who  said  that 
while  they  were  becalmed,  the  previous  night,  a  female  figure 
rose  out  of  the  water,  and  drew  them  into  port.  A  wag 
proposed  "  to  prove  it  all  a  trick,"  by  showing  that  the  priest 
had  a  look-out  on  some  favorable  height,  and  that  the  call 
to  prayer  was  made  after  the  sail  was  seen  approaching — 
that  the  priest  wet  the  clothes  of  the  statue,  etc. ;  but  this 
wag  was  doubtless  one  of  those  wicked  persons  who  prefer 
reason  without  faith,  to  faith  without  sense.  The  image  of 
Our  Lady  occupies  a  prominent  place  near  the  altar;  and 
about  her  person  are  stuck  rings  and  breast-pins,  the  thank- 
offerings  of  returned  sailors,  or  the  gifts  of  strangere  to  pro- 
pitiate the  original.  For  the  lady  herself  we  have  a  most 
respectful  regard,  but  beg  leave  to  express  the  opinion 
that  her  wooden  representative  here  is  a  tawdry,  insignifi- 
cant doU ! 

Crossing  the  hand  of  the  sexton,  and  throwing  some  cop- 
pers to  the  beggars,  we  remounted  and  were  soon  on  the 


MADEIEA. 


435 


edge  of  the  Curral,  and  among  misting  clouds.  Then  \re 
commenced  the  steep  descent,  with  our  guides  hanging  on  to 
the  horses'  tails,  to  assist  in  strengthening  the  holding  back, 
and  at  length,  quite  fatigued,  vre  reached  the  bottom.  Here 
vre  rested  on  a  bank  covered  -with  wild  fern,  heath,  and 
broom,  and  stranger  wild  flowers,  and  contemplating  the 
mighty  works  around  us,  were  lost  in  silent  adoration  of  the 
power  who  by  the  agency  of  fire  called  this  island  from  "  the 
vasty  deep,"  and  clove  its  mightiest  mountains  asunder. 
"  Who  toucheth  the  mountains  and  they  smoke."  A  little 
stream,  murmuring  through  the  almost  dry  bed  of  the  river, 
called  our  attention  to  another  of  the  mighty  of  his  servants, 
and  we  saw  where  the  winter  torrents  of  unnumbered  cen- 
turies had  worn  through  stratum  after  stratum  of  solid  ba- 
saltic rock. 

Ascending  the  eastern  side,  we  found  ourselves  among 
short-leafed  pines,  and  other  growths  common  to  our  own 
high  lands.  Here  capital  has  not  yet  been  invested  in  irri- 
gating the  lands,  and  the  crops  arc  such  as  can  be  made  by 
the  winter  rains — wheat,  barley,  and  Irish  potatoes.  The 
wheat  here  is  just  in  bloom,  and  at  least  ten  days  later  than 
that  we  passed  a  thousand  feet  below.  We  made  a  circuit 
in  our  descent  so  as  to  pass  by  the  Palheiro,  the  country 
seat  of  the  former  Count  Carvalbal.  The  grounds  arc  lai<l 
out  in  the  English  park  style,  ornamented  with  fine  trees  of 
native  growth ;  and  altogether,  it  is  the  most  desirable 
country  residence  on  the  island.  We  found  our  way  down 
over  narrow  roads,  through  wheat,  and  cactus,  and  fig,  and 
cane,  and  potato  patches,  small  cottages,  and  licggar 
children,  and  reached  Funchal  in  the  evening,  in  time 


4:36       PEESONAJL  ADYEUTtJEES  AKD  OBSEEVATIOXS. 


to  enjoy  a  sumptuous  dinner  mth  our  most  worthy 
consul. 

"  Now  fades  the  glimmering  landscape  on  the  sight, 
And  all  the  air  a  solemn  stillness  holds, 
Save  Tvhere  the  beetle  wheels  his  droning  flight. 
And  drowsy  tinkliugs  lull  the  distant  folds." 


CHAPTER  m. 


MADEIRA  COIOINXJED. 

Erening  Walks— Camera  de  Lobos — The  New  Road — The  Prazas — Cost 
of  Living  —  Cabinet  Workmen  and  Turners  —  Lazaretto — Vespers — 
GoTcrnment  of  Madeira,  etc. 

NonviTHSTAXDixG  tliG  Steep  hills  and  paved  streets  of 
Funchal,  there  are  many  pleasant  walks  to  be  found  in 
its  vicinity. 

The  little  village  of  fishermen's  huts,  called  Camera  do 
Lobos — "Wolf's  Den- — is  three  miles  distant,  and  the  road 
that  leads  to  it  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  island.  For  a  part 
of  the  way  it  trends  along  the  edge  of  a  high  clifl*  which 
rises  perpendicularly  from  the  Atlantic  more  than  two  lum- 
dred  feet ;  then  over  a  comparatively  level  country,  among 
wheat,  and  sugar-cane  patches,  and  fig-embowered  cots, 
until  it  ueaches  the  inclination  toward  the  elevated  valley 
in  which  the  church  and  village  stand. 

The  wolf-dens,  from  which,  in  the  early  settlements  of 
the  island,  the  village  took  its  name,  are  still  here,  but  hav- 
ing been  remodelled  by  the  spade  and  pick,  and  faced  with 
rough  stone,  are  now  the  dwelling-places  of  men.  A  know- 
ledge of  this  fact  explained  the  astonishing  voracity  of  the 
beggars  of  this  district :  the  conclusion  was  irresistible,  that 
the  present  denizens  of  these  hill  side  caves — the  genus 
homo — inherited  from  the  extinct  race,  htjnis,  not  only  his 
dwellings,  but  also  the  insatiable  huiigcr,  and  untiring 

431 


438        PEKSONAL  ADVENT0EES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


energy  iu  the  jDursuit  of  food,  characteristic  of  the  wolf. 
Two  old  specimens,  who  might  have  been  partners  connu- 
bial, dogged  our  steps  in  that  neighborhood  through  a 
whole  summer's  afternoon,  with 

"  That  long  slow  gallop,  which  can  tire 
The  hound's  deep  hate,  the  huntsman's  fire  ;" 

and  as  Ave  turned  for  Funchal,  about  sunset,  the  fear  that 
they  were  about  to  lose  the  long-pursued  prey,  brought 
from  them  an  irresistible  howl  of  petition.  When  we  dis- 
missed them  with  a  few  coppers,  they  growled  out  some- 
thing Avhich  we  supposed  to  be  thanks. 

"  What  do  they  say,  Manuel  ?"  said  I,  turning  to  my 
ragged  little  guide,  who  spoke  some  English. 

"  The  old  man  say  yo  be  good  boy." 

"  And  what  does  the  female  say  ?" 

"  He  say  the  change  not  worth  so  much  blessing,  when 
he  walk  so  much  to  get  him." 

On  the  New  Road,  as  the  road  between  Camera  de  Lobos 
and  Funchal  is  called,  the  American  may  walk  feeling  that 
he  has  a  right  there,  for  it  was,  in  part,  constructed  by 
American  benevolence  ;  and  as  this  has  been  a  subject  of 
some  animadversion,  we  Avould  say  a  word  here  in  justifica- 
tion of  the  i^arties  concerned. 

Seasons  of  famine,  owing  to  proti'acted  droughts,  have 
occasionally  fallen  upon  this  fruitful  island,  the  last  of  which, 
of  much  severity,  Avas  in  1847.  In  Portugal,  England,  and 
America,  contiibutions  Avere  made  by  charitable  persons 
for  the  relief  of  the  sufferers  ;  corn  Avas  purchased  and  sent 
out,  and,  Avith  other  breadstuffs,  Avas  placed  in  the  hands 
of  a  committee  of  gentlemen  in  Funchal,  of  Avhom  our  con- 


MADEIRA. 


i39 


sul,  J.  Howard  March,  Esq.,  "was  one.  Many  of  the  apjjli- 
cants  for  bread  were  able-bodied  adults,  and  to  keep  such 
from  contracting  habits  of  indolence  dui-ing  the  famine,  it 
was  determined  by  the  committee  that  a  small  amount  of 
daily  labor  should  be  demanded  for  daily  bread.  It  was 
thought  that  by  appropriating  this  labor  to  the  formation 
of  a  good  road  in  this  part  of  the  island,  a  double  purpose 
could  be  accomplished ;  that  by  making  a  good  road  be- 
tween Funchal  and  a  densely  populated  district,  a  perma- 
nent benefit  would  be  bestowed  on  the  poor  of  that  district ; 
and  at  the  same  time  such  a  road  would  fonn  a  pleasant 
promenade  for  visitors  to  the  island,  most  of  whom  are 
from  the  countries  which  contributed.  The  American  or 
English  visitor  to  Madeira,  as  he  enjoys  a  breezy  -walk  on 
this  bcautifnl  and  gravelled  way,  finds  suflicient  reason  to 
approve  of  this  aj>plication  of  the  labor  which  his  benevo- 
lence supported,  and  the  heavily-laden  peasant,  as  he 
trudges  along  under  his  burden  of  fruit  and  vegetables  to 
sujiply  the  demands  of  the  African  cruiser,  or  as  he  returns 
at  night,  foot-sorc  and  weary  after  a  long  day  of  toil,  blesses 
the  unknown  givers  of  that  charity,  which  not  only  fed  him 
and  his  little  ones  in  time  of  want,  but  also  opened  for  him 
a  comfortable  way  to  his  mountain  home.  We  think  it 
likely,  that  if  the  over-tasked  and  under-fed  donkeys  of  the 
island  could  be  called  upon  for  their  opinion — and  judging 
from  their  looks,  they  have  opinions  on  all  subjects— of  this 
appropriation,  indirect,  of  public  charities,  they  would  send 
up  a  simultaneous  bra]/  whicli  would  silence  all  croaking. 
A  Yankee  suggests  that  the  American  contributors  ought 
not  to  complain,  "  because  the  islands  will  be  ours  in  legs 
than  twenty  years." 


440        PEESOXAL  ADYENTTEES  OB5EEVATIOX3. 


Another  \raik,  to  which  we  were  partial,  is  from  tho 
Praza  da  Heinha  tip  to  the  Praza  Constituicdo,  and  thence 
through  the  narrow  streets,  lined  with  work-shops  and 
stores,  to  the  Praza  Academica,  in  the  eastern  suburbs. 
These  Prazas  are  the  public  squares  and  promenades  of  the 
place,  planted  in  shade  trees,  and  provided  with  seats,  and 
here  the  beauty  and  £ishion  of  the  city  may  be  seen  taking 
the  air  in  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  on  festive  occasions. 
In  making  this  tour,  we  generally  included  the  meat  and 
fiih,  and  the  vegetable  markets,  and  in  the  beautiful  fruit, 
or  some  new  variety  of  fish,  we  always  found  something  to 
engage  and  interest.  Notwithstanding  the  heavy  excise 
and  market  dues  imposed  on  almost  every  article  offered 
for  sale  here,  marketing  is  rery  low,  as  compared  with  the 
Atlantic  markets  of  America.  Servant  hire  and  house-rent 
are  less  by  one-hal^  in  the  same  comparison ;  and  to  the 
question,  often  proposed  by  invalids  and  others  desiring  to 
visit  Madeira,  as  to  the  expense  of  living,  we  would  reply, 
that  living  is  at  least  one-third  less  in  or  about  Funchal 
than  in  any  of  our  southern  cities.  Families  who  live  here 
at  the  rate  of  fifteen  hundred  a  year,  may  live  there,  in  the 
same  style  and  comfort,  at  a  thousand.  The  difference  in 
the  case  of  a  single  individual  would  not  be  so  great. 

We  frequently  entered  the  cabinet  shops  on  this  walk  to 
witness  the  operations  in  carving,  veneering,  and  mosaic 
work  in  wood,  in  which  the  islanders  excel.  The  work  is 
done  mostly  in  the  til  and  vinhatico.  native  woods  of  much 
beauty,  and  for  neatness  and  durability,  is  superior  to  the 
work  of  America  or  England.  This  is  owing  to  the  fact, 
that  in  Madeira  artisans  follow  but  one  branch  of  a  trade  or 
art,  and  therefore  attain  to  great  proficiency  and  expert- 


MADEIRA. 


441 


ness,  and  besides,  labor  is  cheajx  The  trade  here  is,  at 
present,  for  the  greater  part,  confined  to  centre  tables, 
work-boxes,  card-cases,  and  the  hijou  forms  of  cabinet 
work. 

We  were  attracted  by  the  singular  and  primitive  struc- 
ture of  the  turner's  apparatus.  The  lathe,  consisting  of  the 
usual  mandrel  and  posset,  is  elevated  but  a  few  inches  from 
the  ground ;  the  ojjcrator  works  before  it,  resting  on  one 
knee,  turning  with  one  hand,  and  directing  the  chisel  with 
the  other,  assisting  with  one  foot.  The  rotary  motion  is 
given  by  propelling  a  tightly-strung  bow  back  and  forth 
across  the  mandrel,  around  whicli  the  string  has  one  turn. 
Great  speed  may  be  obtained  in  this  way,  and  that  under 
complete  control ;  and  there  is  advantage  also  in  the  two 
motions,  to  and  from  the  operator,  in  humoring  cross- 
grained  wood.  In  most  of  the  mechanic  arts  the  natives 
are  expert  and  tasteful,  but  in  other  departments  of  labor, 
physical  or  mental,  especially  those  involving  the  inventivo 
genius,  so  much  may  not  be  said  of  them. 

This  Avalk  may  be  extended  pleasantly  to  the  Lazaretto, 
a  hospital  for  the  treatment  of  eleiihantiasis  among  the  poor, 
a  disease  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  here  said  to  be  incur- 
able, as  it  is  not  known  that  a  single  cure  has  been  efibcted 
in  the  island. 

Returning  from  one  of  these  evening  strolls,  we  once 
passed  the  little  chapel  of  the  convent  Encarnacao,  just  as 
the  sunset  bell  rang  for  vespers.  "VVc  entered  the  twilight 
apartment  witli  a  few  who  were  waiting  to  pay  their  even- 
ing devotions  at  its  dimly-lighted  altar,  and  licard  tiie  ves- 
per hymn  as  it  floated  through  the  curtained  grating,  and 
filled  the  chapel  with  aotto  voce  strains,  soft  as  the  breathing 

19* 


442       TEESOKAI,  ADVENTDKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS, 


of  an  jEolian  harp.  The  sweet  music,  the  solemnity  of  the 
horn-,  the  eai*nest  devotion  of  the  worshippers,  the  fact  that 
we  were  in  a  place  dedicated  to  the  service  of  our  common 
Lord  and  Saviour,  inspii-ed  us  with  devotion,  and  for  a  mo- 
ment forgetting  our  prejudices,  we  felt  that  it  was  good  to 
be  there.  It  occurred  to  us  to  ask,  why  are  not  Protestant 
churches,  especially  in  our  cities,  open  at  this  hour,  con- 
secrated to  prayer  by  the  practice  of  the  churches  in  all 
ages,  for  the  benefit  of  the  stranger  and  the  passer-by? 
Is  it  yet  sufficient  objection  that  such  a  practice  is  pur- 
sued by  the  Church  of  Rome?  It  is  to  be  feared,  that 
with  a  majority  of  Protestant  Christendom  it  is  so.  We 
once  heard  a  Methodist  minister  of  high  position  in  the 
church,  talk  nonsense  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  attempting 
to  prove  that  there  was  no  analogy  between  class-meet- 
ings and  Roman  confessionals,  proceeding,  the  while,  on 
the  assumption,  tJiat  if  any  such  analogy  existed,  it  would 
be  a  sufficient  objection  to  the  class  !  By  such  reasoning 
we  would  deprive  ourselves  of  the  creeds,  the  Lord's 
prayer,  and  indeed  of  the  New  Testament  itself.  But  the 
Protestant  Church  is  fast  recovering  from  the  extremes 
inseparable  from  a  thorough  reformation,  and  will  sooji 
occupy  that  via  media,  between  a  dry,  unattractive  Puri- 
tanism, and  that  system  of  forms  where  spirituality  is 
swallowed  up  in  the  excess  of  symbolism,  and  in  which 
her  crown  shall  flourish. 

While  Ave  are  among  the  people  of  Madeira,  let  us  turn  a 
glance  to  their  system  of  government. 

Until  1841,  the  Madeira  Islands  sustained  the  relations  of 
a  colony  to  Portugal,  but  in  that  year  were  raised  into  the 
dignity  of  a  province,  and  are  now  treated  as  an  integral 


MADEIRA. 


443 


part  of  the  kingdom.  The  province  is  divided  into  eight 
districts,  called  concelhos,  in  each  of  Avhich  there  is  a 
municipal  chamber,  composed  of  nine  members,  who  are 
elected  biennially,  and  a  council  chamber  of  the  same  num- 
ber, who  are  selected  from  amongst  the  highest  tax-payers 
of  the  concelho.  The  council  chamber  estunates  and  limits 
the  expenses  of  the  concelho,  and  in  concert  Avith  the 
municipal  chamber,  levies  taxes  and  contracts  loans  to 
meet  the  municipal  expenses.  The  governor,  with  a  cabi- 
net of  four  members  (all  of  whom  are  appointed  by  the 
crown),  has  a  qualified  supervision  of  the  acts  of  the 
municipal  chambers,  and  can  remit  taxes  in  individual 
cases.  lie  is  also  the  interpreter  of  doubtful  contracts,  and 
the  supervisor  of  election  returns. 

The  general  Junta  of  the  province  is  composed  of  thir- 
teen members,  who  are  elected  by  the  municipal  chambers, 
and  serve  two  years.  To  it  the  governor  is  in  some  degree 
amenable  for  his  official  acts,  yet  he  has  the  power  to  dis- 
solve this  body,  and  if  his  act  of  dissolution  is  approved  by 
the  home  government,  a  new  election  of  members  takes 
place,  and  a  new  Junta  is  formed.  The  general  Junta  meets 
annually,  estimates  the  expenses  of  the  province,  assesses  a 
tax  to  meet  that  expense,  and  determines  what  proportion 
of  said  tax  shall  be  met  by  the  various  concclhos.  The 
province  of  Madeira  is  represented  in  the  Cortes  of  Portu- 
gal by  four  members,  chosen  by  electors,  who  are  elected 
by  the  voters.  The  property  qualification  of  the  voter  is 
the  possession  of  an  annual  income  of  $100,  independent  of 
his  personal  labors ;  and  small  as  this  may  seem,  it  excludes 
a  majority  of  the  adult  male  population.  The  elections  are 
held  at  tlie  parish  churches,  under  the  inspection  of  priests, 


444        PHESOXAL  ADVLMLEES  AXD  0E=I:EVATI0>"S. 


by  whom  voters  must  be  recognized  before  the  vote  can  be 
enrolled. 

The  present  judicial  system  came  into  vogue  in  1841,  and 
law  is  now  administered  by  a  jiuy  and  four  judges.  The 
lowest  of  these,  called  juiz  de  paz,  is  the  legal  arbiter  of 
small  differences,  whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  parties  from 
going  to  law,  if  possible,  and  to  decide  finally  in  cases  where 
six  dollars  or  less  are  involved. 

The  juiz  eleito — judge  elect — tries  cases  of  trespass  by 
cattle,  in  fields  or  vineyards,  and  charges  of  ofience  against 
municipal  regulations. 

The  juiz  ordinario — corresponding  with  our  justice  of 
peace — takes  cognizance  of  suits  in  which  $30  or  less  are 
involved,  and  hears  charges  of  offence  against  the  pubUc 
peace.  The  juiz  de  tfereifo— judge  of  law — possesses  powers 
similar  to  those  of  our  superior  court  judges.  Criminal 
cases  are  tried  by  a  jury  of  nine  or  twelve,  who  are  judges 
of  the  fact  only,  and  the  verdict  must  have  the  support  of 
two-thirds  of  the  panel.  Where  the  sentence  of  the  judge 
is  death  or  banishment,  appeal  may  be  taken  to  the  supreme 
tribunal  at  Lisbon. 

The  revenue  of  the  Madeiras  if.  derived  from  a  duty 
imposed  on  all  imports,  except  a  few  articles  of  breadstuff; 
and  on  wine  and  other  exports ;  and  an  excise  on  all  meats 
and  fish  offered  for  sale,  and  on  most  of  the  agricultural 
productions.  On  meats,  this  excise  is  three  per  cent. 
ad  valorem^  on  fish  six,  and  on  grains  and  other  produce 
ten  per  cent.  The  annual  revenue  of  this  little  province, 
whose  population  is  under  105,000,  is  $210,000;  and  when 
we  add  to  this  the  taxes  for  concdho  and  provincial 
pui-poses,  it  will  appear  that  the  dwellers  on  this  beau- 


ItlADETRA. 


445 


tiful  island  pay  dearly  for  that  blessing  called  govern- 
ment. 

The  intelligent  and  travelled  American  is  not  a  filibuster. 
*  He  believes  that  his  form  of  government  is  the  best  in  the 
^ov\A^,  for  Americans ;  but  among  other  peojDle,  he  often 
sees  the  -want  of  that  intelligence  and  appreciation  of  civil 
relations,  ■without  ■which  our  degree  of  personal  and  civil 
liberty  would  be  an  evil.  Hence  he  does  not  fall  out  with 
every  form  of  government  that  he  stumbles  on,  in  his  tour 
of  the  world,  because  it  is  un-American.  But,  however 
conservative  and  philosophical  he  may  be,  he  cannot  alight 
upon  a  land  and  population  like  this,  without  feeling  a 
strong  desire  to  infuse  a  little  of  the  American  spirit  among 
them,  and,  at  least,  to  knock  off  the  fetters  of  a  state- 
imposed  religion.  Yet,  with  all  their  burdens,  the  people 
look  contented  and  cheerful — can  we  say  as  much  of  our 
own  masses  ?  The  peasantry,  especially,  are  a  light-hearted 
and  gala-day  population,  of  simple  habits,  and  unambitious 
aims.  Their  ignorance  of  politics  is  their  bliss,  and,  like 
one  born  without  eyes,  they  can  form  but  a  faint  conception 
of  the  value  of  light.  In  studying  such  a  phase  of  humanity, 
we  conclude  with  Pope,  that 

"  Order  is  heaven's  first  law  ;  and  this  confest, 
Some  arc,  and  must  bc,/re«-ec  than  the  rest, 
More  rich,  nioro  wise ;  but  who  infers  from  hcuco 
Tliat  such  arc  happier,  shocks  all  common  sense." 

To  the  sources  of  revenue  mentioned  above,  should  bo 
added  the  monopolies  of  soap  and  tobacco ;  the  fonner  of 
Avhich,  in  1854,  brought  the  government  over  $25,000. 


44:6       PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 


No  wonder  the  people  ai'e  dirty  "when  cleanliness  is  so 
heavily  taxed.  The  Orchil  weed,  a  cryptogamous  plant, 
much  used  in  dyeing,  was  formerly  gathered  and  exported 
in  large  quantities  from  the  Madeira  and  Cape  Vcrd 
Islands.    The  government  monopolized  the  exportation. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


MADEIRA — CONTINUED. 

A  Day's  Ride — Grand  Curral — The  Vine  and  the  Wine  of  Madeira — 
Geology  of  the  Curral  and  Island  Generally — Trouble  in  the  Dinner 
Basket — A  Soliloquy. 

The  Curral  das  Freiras — Fold  of  the  Nuns — commonly 
called  the  Grand  Curral,  is  the  great  curiosity  and  attrac- 
tion of  Madeira,  so  we  determined  to  see  it  before  taking 
our  final  departure. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  a  July  day,  and  while  the  dew 
still  sparkled  in  diamonds  on  the  grass  and  hedge-rows, 
Dr.  C,  Lieutenant  A.,  and  myself,  engaged  three  good 
horses,  Avith  their  attendants,  and  a  lusty  fellow  to  carry 
a  basket  of  provisions,  and  took  up  otir  road  through 
fragrant  lanes,  and  gardens  of  banana  and  coffee-trees,  for 
the  distant  mountains.  Our  route  lay  through  the  parish 
of  San  Antonio,  one  of  the  prettiest,  most  populous  and 
productive  districts  of  the  island,  and  which,  in  the  wine- 
producing  days  of  the  Madeiras,  furnished  the  best  wine. 

Toll  us  something  of  the  wine,  says  one.  Ah !  reader, 
if  you  have  a  'penchant  toward  good  wine,  let  us  offer 
you  our  sympathy,  for  the  days  of  "old  Madeira"  are 
ended ;  the  years  of  the  sweet  Malmsey,  and  the  luscious 
Scrcial,  and  the  Bdal,  and  Tinta,  and  Vcrdolho,  and  Palhete, 
and  Surdo,  and  Negriuho,  natives  of  these  hills,  are  num- 
bered. 


443        PEEiOXAL  ADTETSTTEES  XSTD  OBSEETATIO^rS. 

The  island,  which  once  produced,  for  foreign  markets, 
fifteen  thousand  pipes  of  wine  (the  harreitt  of  1S09)  is  now 
known  no  more  among  wine-producing  countries. 

This  is  the  fifth  year  (1857)  in  which  no  wine  has  been 
produced.  For  three  years  the  vine-dresser  waited  in  anx- 
ious hope,  but  the  blight  continued  to  grow  worse,  and  at 
length  the  much  loved  and  long  cherished  vine  was  cat 
down  to  make  room  for  the  more  homely  growths  of  com 
and  sugar-cane.  This  disease  manifests  itself  in  the  spring, 
in  the  crumpled  appearance  of  the  lea^  and  the  withering 
of  the  young  fruit.  Scientific  men  suppose  that  the  vine, 
having  been  so  long  the  only  crop  cultivated  in  the  wine 
districts,  has  at  length  exhausted  those  properties  of  soil 
which  gave  it  fruitfulness,  and  that  these  properties  can 
only  be  restored  by  a  process  which  may  jeqtiire  ages  for 
its  development.  Those  chemical  agents  known  to  abound 
in  grape-producing  soils,  have  been  applied  here  without 
perceptible  effiect,  and  now  the  vine  which  of  yore  produced 
bunches  as  abundant  as  leaves,  has  disappeared  from  the 
hill-sides  and  vales,  and  is  found  only  in  gardens,  cherished 
by  the  sanguine  owner  in  hopes  of  better  days,  or  preserved 
by  that  sentiment  which  says, 

"  Woodman,  epore  that  tree." 

The  above  theory  of  the  blight  may  be  correct ;  but  our 
observation,  in  parts  of  the  island  where  the  vine  is  in  a 
comparatively  new  soL',  suggests  an  objection,  for  here  we 
witnessed  the  same  diseased  condition  of  the  plant,  and  as 
fully  developed,  as  in  those  soils  where,  from  being  too  long 
the  unvaried  crop,  it  is  suppK>sed  to  have  exhausted  certain 
essential  elements.    The  wine  now  in  the  island  is  in  tho 


MADEIEA. 


449 


hands  of  a  few  wealthy  merchants,  and  is  held  at  a  price 
which  is  daily  increasing.  Is  it  not  a  little  remarkable  that 
Madeira  wine  is  as  abundant  in  the  American  market  as 
ever,  and  that  it  can  be  bought  at  any  country  store  in  the 
interior  at  a  price  which  is  lower  than  the  present  first  cost 
in  Madeira !  If  you  doubt  the  genuineness  of  the  article 
examine  the — label ! 

The  varieties  of  the  vine  cultivated  in  Madeira  Avere  not 
indigenous ;  they  were  imported  from  Cyprus  in  the  early 
settlement  of  the  island,  and  tlic  failure  of  the  present  gene- 
ration contributes,  with  observation  of  kindred  elfects  in 
other  plants,  to  confirm  our  belief  in  an  opinion  which  is  not 
generally  entertained  by  naturahsts,  but  which  has,  never- 
theless, long  existed,  viz.,  that  exotic  plants  will  eventually 
*'  run  out." 

For  three  miles  or  more,  the  country  through  which  wo 
passed  is  so  thickly  populated  that  it  forms  a  continuous 
village  of  cots.  The  clatter  of  our  horse's  hoofs  on  the  stono 
pavement  brought  the  women  and  children  to  the  walls  or 
hedges  of  their  little  gardens,  but  we  rode  too  fast  to  afibrd 
them  much  opportunity  of  begging :  in  two  instances,  how- 
ever, we  slackened  our  pace.  One  was  where  a  pale, 
afflicted  mother  leaned  over  the  low  wall  of  her  garden, 
holding  in  her  arms  a  deformed  and  sickly  infant,  silently 
appealing  for  charity  by  pointing,  with  an  expression  of 
heartfelt  distress,  to  her  little  babe.  The  other  was  the 
appeal  of  an  old  blind  man,  who  was  led  to  his  wicket  gate 
by  a  Httle  girl  on  crutches,  and  almost  helitless.  To  such 
appeals  the  American  oflicer  is  seldom  <le;if  He  is  a 
stranger  to  the  language  of  the  appellant,  but  true  sorrow 
has  a  universal  language,  and  seldom  fails  to  make  itself 


450        PEESOXAL  ADVJLNTLKES  XSJ)  OBSEETATIOSS. 


heard  in  unhardened  hearts.  He  gives,  and  prayers  and 
blessings  follow  him  on  his  journey. 

The  wheat  harvest  is  here  oratherins'  in,  and  in  a  manner 
new  to  us,  and  peculiar  to  the  island.  It  is  not  cut  by 
cradle  or  reaper,  but  pulled  up  by  the  roots,  stalk  after 
stalk,  bound  in  small  bundles,  and  stacked  in  the  field. 
They  make  clean  work  of  their  harvesting.  No  Ruth  may 
glean  handfuls,  or  even  stray  ears,  in  these  fields,  for  stem 
poverty,  and  inexorable  tax-collectors,  drive  the  poor  ten- 
ant to  glean  every  ear  and  gather  every  straw. 

At  a  distance  of  about  four  miles  from  Fonchal,  we  passed 
through  a  fine  grove  of  native  woods — the  til,  which  yields 
a  valuable  timber  resembling  our  black  walnut,  but  more 
compact,  the  scientific  name  of  which  is  very  appropriate 
{laurens  fcetens),  for  it  emits  the  meanest  of  odors ;  and 
large  trees  of  the  Madeira  nut,  with  us  called  the  English 
walnut. 

"When  five  miles  of  our  journey  were  accomplished — and 
be  it  remembered,  that  five  miles  where  one  is  continually 
ascending  or  descending  steep  hiUs,  are  equal  to  twice  the 
number  in  our  country — we  found  ourselves  traversing 
mountains  too  steep  for  cultivation,  but  whose  gorse  and 
heath-covered  surface  afforded  fine  pasturage  to  flocks  of 
goats. 

As  we  advanced,  our  road  dwindled  into  a  narrow  path, 
and  in  taming  the  sharp  angles  on  the  cliffy  mountain  side, 
we  often  found  ourselves  on  excavated  shelves,  overlooking 
vales  several  hundred  feet  deep.  In  advancing  over  such 
dizzy  passes,  we  followed  the  example  and  advice  of  the 
doctor,  who  suggested  that  in  such  places  it  was  more  easy 
to  keep  necks  whole  than  to  mend  them  after  they  were 


MADEIRA. 


451 


broken,  and  having,  withal,  more  confidence  in  our  own 
legs  than  in  those  of  our  horses,  we  preferred  to  walk.  At 
midday  the  guides  told  us  that  we  were  at  the  usual  stop- 
ping-place for  the  horses ;  we  proceeded  a  short  distance 
around  the  side  of  the  mountain,  on  foot,  and  there  a  scene 
of  overwhelming  grandeur  burst  into  view. 

The  position  we  occupied  was  an  elevation  of  four  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  now  reflected  the 
rays  of  an  almost  vertical  sun,  and  glistened  in  the  distance 
like  an  ocean  of  molten  gold. 

Silence  eternal  reigns  among  these  bills  ;  stray  goats  are 
the  only  animals  which  pursue  the  scant  herbage  of  these 
heights,  and  the  falcon  and  hawk  are  the  undisturbed  pos- 
sessors of  the  craggy  summits. 

The  atmosphere  was  light  and  cool,  and  finding  a  point 
which  gave  us  full  view  of  the  depths  and  heights  sublime, 
we  sat  down  under  the  shadow  of  a  great  rock  to  wonder 
and  enjoyment.  "We  were  three  thous:\nd  feet  above  the 
lowest  depth  of  the  Curral,  and  two  thousand  feet  below 
the  peaks  which  towered  overhead. 

The  Curral,  which  is  called  the  central  crater  of  the 
island,  is  an  irregular  circular  basin,  whose  base  stands  at 
.ibout  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  whose 
walls  rise  around  it  to  the  height  of  five  thousand  feet. 
These  walls  are  the  noblest  mountains  of  the  island — the 
Pico  G^rande,  the  jagged  crcbted  loiThitias,  and  Pico 
Puivo,  whose  majestic  head  peers  above  the  clouds. 

When  the  beholder  recovers  his  conscious  individuality 
among  the  vast  proportions  around  him,  and  transi>orts  of 
admiration  give  place  to  thoughtful  inquiry,  the  first  con- 
clusion will  likely  be,  that  he  is  beholding,  in  the  Curral, 


452        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  0BSEK^'AT10NS. 


the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano ;  then  imagination  takes 
up  the  easy  task  of  filling  the  vast  excavation  Tvith  fire,  and 
the  atmosphere  above  it  with  smoke,  and  lightning,  and 
thunder;  and  he  beholds  the  lava,  in  streams  of  fire,  rolling 
in  resistless  masses  to  the  vales  below.  A  study  of  the  in- 
clination and  relative  position  of  the  clearly-defined  strata 
of  its  walls,  together  with  an  analysis  of  theu*  matter,  which 
is  often  trachytic  and  basaltic  conglomerate,  cemented  by 
the  tufas,  Avill  dissipate  this  impression,  and  reveal  the  more 
astounding  fact,  that  the  materials  which  compose  tliese 
mountains  were  originally  thrown  from  some  volcanic  focus 
now  unknown,  and  deposited  on  the  bed  of  the  ocean ;  that 
subsequently  this  matter  was  raised  to  its  present  height  by 
some  mighty  geological  convulsion,  and  riven  into  these 
vast  crevices  and  gorges  by  the  expansion  of  confined  steam 
and  gases. 

That  the  Curral  is  a  crater  of  elevation,  is  perhaps  the 
more  plausible  of  the  two  theories  which  pi'opose  to  account 
for  its  immediate  origin.  The  materials  which  compose  the 
surface,  were  certainly  not  dejiosited  according  to  their  spe- 
cific gravity,  an  eflect  which  naturally  follows  when  disse- 
vered matter  falls  through  water  of  any  considerable  depth, 
and  this  occurs  as  an  objection  to  its  subaqueous  fonnation. 
This  order  of  deposition  is  a  general  characteristic  of  craters 
of  elevation,  and  the  only  mark  which  the  Curral  lacks  in 
proof  of  its  elevation.  And  did  not  the  philosophical  hypo- 
thesis of  Mr.  B.  V.  Harcourt  meet  the  objection,  it  would 
still  be  more  easy  to  accept  this  theory  of  its  origin  thaji  to 
suppose  it  to  be  of  subaerial  formation,  when  the  testimony 
of  the  rocks,  which  compose  its  conglomerate  beds,  is  to  the 
abundant  presence  of  water  in  their  formation ;  and  espe- 


MADEIEA. 


453 


cially  when,  from  the  summit  of  Pico  Ruivo  to  the  plane  of 
the  ocean,  there  are  no  evidences  of  volcanic  eruptions  sub- 
sequent to  the  upheaval  of  the  island. 

After  considerable  observation  among  the  volcanic  islands 
of  the  Atlantic,  we  venture  to  suggest  that  the  irregularly 
dei^osited  surface  of  the  Curral,  and  that  too  for  a  consider- 
able depth,  may  be  accounted  for  by  the  mechanical  effects 
of  rains,  torrents,  winds,  and  melting  snows,  in  bringing 
down  matter  from  the  surrounding  walls  to  compose  this 
fragmentary  stratum ;  and  that  beneath  it  may  be  found 
traces,  at  least,  of  those  beds  of  matter,  deposited  according 
to  its  specific  gravity,  which  characterize  craters  of  eleva- 
tion. Of  the  period  and  loeus  of  the  forces,  Mr.  Harcoiirt 
says  that  "  all  the  volcanic  beds  of  which  Madeira  is  com. 
posed,  Avitli  those  in  the  Mediterranean  and  other  parts  of 
tlie  world,  appear  to  have  been  upheaved  from  tlie  bed  of 
the  sea,  at  the  miocene  period  of  the  tertiary  cpocli,"  by  a 
force  "  in  or  below  the  trachytic  formation." 

We  were  indulging  in  speculations  like  these,  when  some 
one  announced  from  the  dinner-basket  that  the  caterer  had 
forgotten  to  provide  bread.  "  AVhat,  no  bread,  after  riding 
half  a  day  on  an  empty  stomach  ?"  "  No  bread,  and  we  at 
an  elevation  of  four  thousand  feet  in  a  hungry  atmosphere !" 
It  sounded  like  the  knell  of  doom ;  dreams  and  philosophizing 
fled  before  it,  for  they  require  good  dinners,  either  in  pos- 
session or  prospect — tlie  sky  darkened — the  Grand  Curral 
became  a  chaos  of  chance-made  chasms,  and  cliffs  of  unincnn- 
iiig  contour — grandeur,  beauty — nonsense  !  nothing  is  grand 
or  beautiful  to  a  hungry  man,  who  has  no  dinner  in  i)rospcct. 
The  doctor  offered  us  some  excellent  puns,  but  puns  are 
poor  substitutes  for  buns,  and  our  case  was  becoming  dcs- 


454       PEESOXAL  ADVEXTUEES  AlTD  OESERTATIOXS. 

perate,  when  one  of  some  sans  culottes  boys,  who  had  joined 
our  jjarty  with  the  hope  of  getting  something  to  eat,  sug- 
gested that  bread  coidd  be  obtained  in  the  village  below. 
Ah,  blest,  unfledged  biunpkin,  I  could  embrace  thee  if  thou 
wert  cleaner !  One  of  the  boys  was  dispatched  without 
many  words ;  the  thermometer  rose  in  the  emotional  de- 
partment at  once ;  the  doctor's  jokes,  good  in  themselves, 
boiTowed  crispness  fiom  the  anticipated  pones,  and  we 
talked  the  hour  away  imtil  the  messenger  returned  with  a 
load  of  bread  in  his  dirty  shul,  which  was,  notwithstanding 
the  contact,  fresh  and  sweet,  and  enough  for  aU  hands. 

The  village  and  church  of  Libramento  stand  on  an  in- 
clined plane  two  thousand  feet  below  us,  and  look  like  a 
child's  toy  vUlage  in  a  mimic  garden,  and  its  banana  and 
sugar-cane  patches  add  variety  and  beauty  to  the  scenery 
of  the  Curral.  "We  spent  the  hours  of  the  afternoon  in 
deUghtfiil  and  soul-elevating  contemplations,  and  when 
the  shadows  of  the  tall  peaks  began  to  lengthen  across  the 
vales,  turned  our  faces  for  Funchal. 

It  was  our  intention  to  return  by  the  Jardim,  the 
country  seat  of  the  late  Consul  Veitch,  in  whose  well- 
appointed  garden  the  tea-j^lant  flourishes  in  great  variety, 
but  the  day  was  too  far  spent. 

I  drojiped  behind  the  party  to  take  the  last  lingering 
look,  which  impresses  the  object  of  our  thoughts  more 
deeply  on  the  memory  than  a  thousand  casual  glances,  and 
told  to  the  passing  breeze,  in  feeble  language,  the  emotion 
stirring  within  us.  FarewcU,  thou  wondi'ous  child  of  nature, 
creation  of  omnipotence,  hand-writing  of  the  Infinite !  I 
have  enjoyed  for  an  hour  the  silent  worship  of  thine  up- 
lifted hands,  and  the  fragrant  incense  of  thine  altars  ascend- 


MADEIRA. 


455 


ing  to  the  Eternal !  I  have  walked  thy  venerable  hills  as 
the  child  of  yesterday,  and  thou  hast  smiled  upon  me  ;  my 
voice  rang  in  the  crags,  and  thou  didst  answer  me ;  I  have 
rested  an  hour  by  life's  way-side  and  mused  with  thee ;  I 
have  asked  the  secret  of  thy  birth,  and  the  number  of  thy 
years,  but  thou  Avast  silent.  Yet  thou  hast  been  my 
teacher,  and  the  lesson,  which  is  my  frailty,  shall  never  be 
forgotten.  And  when  I  have  slept  the  sleep  of  many  gene- 
rations, and  stranger  feet  from  afar  shall  tread  thy  heath 
and  valleys,  and  wonder  and  worship  as  I  have  done,  thou 
wilt  teach  them  in  thine  own  pure  language  the  lesson  thou 
hast  taught  me — may  they  learn  it  well !  But  still  through 
ages  and  uncounted  cycles  thou  thyself  shalt  stand,  as  thou 
hast  stood,  swept  by  the  winds  and  bathed  in  the  clouds  of 
heaven,  till  He  who  called  thee  from  the  deep  to  praise 
him  shall  despoil  thee  of  thy  beauty,  and  thy  grand  crea- 
tions crumble  into  dust ! 

"  Be  mute  who  will,  who  can, 
Yet  I  will  praise  thee  with  impassioned  voice ! 
Me  didst  thou  constitute  a  priest  of  thine 
In  such  a  temple  as  we  now  behold, 
Rear'd  for  thy  presence  ;  therefore  I  am  bound 
To  worship,  here  and  everywhere." 


CHAPTER  V, 


MADEIRA  CO>"TIIfUED. 

Climate — Winds  and  Rains — A  Resort  for  Consumptive  Invalids — Testi- 
mony of  Eminent  Men — Classes  of  Invalids — Churcli  and  Schools. 

It  is  due  the  reader  that  we  should  make  some  note  on  a 
climate,  the  fame  of  whose  salubrity  is  proverbial,  and  to 
which  so  many  suiferers  have  looked,  and  are  now  looking, 
with  hope,  as  to  a  dernier  ressort,  when  means  nearer  home 
have  been  exhausted  without  elFect. 

Madeira  is  in  full  possession  of  those  natural  causes  which 
give  insular  climates  the  advantage  over  continental  in 
equability  of  tomjjerature  ;  and,  besides,  in  the  time  of 
year  in  which  the  wet  and  dry  seasons  occur,  in  the  regu- 
larity of  its  land  and  sea  breezes,  the  conformation  of  its 
surface,  the  character  of  its  soils,  and  perhaps  in  other 
causes  yet  undefined,  possesses  advantages  peculiarly  its 
own.  The  average  temperature  of  Funchal  through  the 
year  is  6G°  Fahrenheit ;  and  the  average  variation  between 
the  minimum  of  winter  and  the  maximum  of  summer  not 
more  than  12°  Fahr.,  and  in  most  years  not  more  than  11°. 
The  coldest  weather  occurs  in  February,  and  the  warmest, 
between  the  middle  of  August  and  the  middle  of  Septem"- 
ber,  at  Avhich  season  visitors  and  invalids  go  into  the 
mountains,  where  the  airs  are  balmy  and  invigorating. 
From  observations  made  during  our  several  visits  to  tho 
island,  we  noticed  that  the  greatest  daily  variation  was  3° — 

456 


MADEIRA. 


457 


that,  between  4  a.m.  and  2  p.m.,  and  in  the  roadstead  at 
half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  It  is  shown  also  by  tables  com- 
posed by  competent  and  reliable  meteorologists,  that  this 
variation  has  seldom  exceeded  4°,  and  that  seasons  occur  in 
which  the  thermometer  stands  for  days  together  without 
moving  a  degree.  To  us,  poor  children  of  the  Atlantic 
States,  with  the  most  variable  climate  in  the  world,  and 
where  this  annual  variation  is  often  seen  in  an  hour,  such 
facts  as  these  are  almost  incredible,  but  serve  well  in  array- 
ing the  countries  which  possess  them  before  our  minds  in 
eternal  summer  and  beauty.  Yet  the  God  of  nature  has  so 
adapted  man's  nature  to  outward  conditions,  that  we  are 
perhaps  not  more  sensible  to  a  variation  of  twelve  degrees, 
than  is  the  Madeiran  to  a  change  of  four. 

The  rains,  as  stated  in  Chapter  11.,  fall  in  the  spring  and 
autumn,  and  are  comparatively  light  in  quantity,  averaging 
about  thirty  inches  per  annum,  which  is  but  two-thirds  of 
what  falls  on  the  greater  part  of  England,  and  scarcely  half 
of  what  sometimes  falls  in  many  of  the  southern  States. 

Madeira  is  situated  on  the  outer  edfje  of  that  zone  of  the 
Atlantic  ocean  which  is  swept  by  the  northeast  trades,  and 
the  prevailing  winds  on  the  sea,  in  its  vicinity,  are  from 
that  quarter:  but  immediately  on  its  shores  local  causes 
operate  to  produce  various  currents,  and  on  the  island 
itself,  the  breezes  are  so  broken  by  peaks  and  ravines,  that 
the  true  course  of  the  wind  is  uuasccrtainable. 

On  the  south  side,  however,  and  esiieciaUy  in  the  vicinity 
of  Funchal,  the  land-breeze  by  night  and  the  sea-brocze  by 
day,  follow  each  other  with  remarkable  regularity.  Tlio 
harmattan  winds,  which  are  so  unfavorably  known  on  tlio 
African  coast,  by  the  white  man  and  the  emigrant,  are 

20 


458        PERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


often  felt  here — called  L'^Este^  from  the  course  in  M'hich 
they  come — and  strange  to  say,  are  considered  salubrious. 
The  consumptive  breathes  freer,  and  the  wan  are  revived 
by  them.  They  are  characterized  by  the  same  haze,  and 
contain  the  same  imi^alpablc  j^owder  Avhich  we  observe  in 
them  further  south.  Their  continuance  here  is  from  four 
to  eight  days,  occurring  at  irregular  intervals,  and  followed 
by  rain. 

For  more  than  a  century,  this  island  has  been  the  retreat 
of  consumptive  invalids  from  the  north  of  Europe,  and 
America,  but  especially  from  England.  The  salubrity  of 
the  climate,  attributed  to  the  uniformity  of  its  temperature, 
and  the  softness  of  its  transitions,  have  been  the  great 
attractions  ;  yet  many  have  gone  there  but  to  find  a  grave 
among  strangers,  and  others  to  return  to  their  native  skies 
unimproved,  weary  of  life,  and  hopeless  of  relief. 

To  the  question  which  has  been  asked  so  often  with 
hollow  voice,  accompanied  by  that  sanguine  look  and 
sinrituel  expression  which  beam  from  the  consumptive  eye, 
"  would  you  advise  me  to  go  there  ?"  we  can  answer  but  in 
general  terms,  and  that  in  the  language  of  others  ;  for  we 
possess  but  little  knowledge  of  the  jjhysiological  effects  of 
climate. 

The  following  opinions  of  the  climate  of  Madeira,  in  this 
asjiect,  are  from  men  of  science  and  experience  extensive  on 
this  subject. 

Wm.  Gourley,  M.  D.  F.  11.  C.  P.,  etc.,  Avho,  during  a 
residence  of  eighteen  years  in  the  island,  seems  to  have 
made  the  effects  of  its  climate  on  phthisical  jiatients  a 
Bi^ecial  object  of  study,  says:  "Madeira,  from  its  uniformity 
of  temperature  and  purity  of  atmosphere,  is  the  favorite 


MADEIRA, 


459 


retreat  of  consumptive  patients.  Here  the  unhappy  suf- 
ferers cheat  the  winter  of  their  o^  climate,  and  gain  that 
cessation  of  suffering  which  such  a  situation  is  fitted  to 
produce. 

"It  would  be  weU  if  the  physicians  of  such  patients  were 
to  recommend  a  change  of  temperature  in  the  first  stages 
of  the  malady,"  etc. 

Dr.  Ileineken,  an  English  physician  and  surgeon  of  repu- 
tation, who  also  resided  in  the  island,  says :  "  I  shall  take 
for  granted  that  my  medical  brethren  will  only  advise  those 
who  arc  likely  to  benefit  by  climate,  to  quit  their  native 
shores ;  and  with  this  proviso,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say,  that 
Madeira  holds  out  advantages  that  are  not  to  be  met  with 
combined  in  any  other  quarter  of  the  globe."  Robert 
"White,  Esq.,  London,  says  :  "A  lengthened  sojourn  in  pur- 
suit of  health  among  the  most  favored  localities  of  the  south 
of  Europe,  enables  the  writer  to  add  his  testimony  to  the 
decided  superiority  of  the  climate  of  Madeira  over  all  those 
he  has  visited." 

We  have  personal  friends  now  living  in  snug  quintas  In 
the  vicinity  of  Funchal,  and,  in  a  good  degree,  enjoying 
life,  who  left  their  homes  after  having  been  given  up  by  the 
faculty.  With  them  the  disease  Ls  not  removed,  but 
arrested;  and  they  are  purchasing  life  at  the  price  of  con- 
tinuous exile ;  for  they  dare  not  return  to  the  loved,  but 
unkind  airs  of  their  native  hills.  We  would  not,  however, 
unduly  excite  the  hojies  of  the  too  sanguine  suITitcts,  for 
many  have  visited  these  shores  in  a  condition  more  hopeful 
than  that  of  those  referred  to  above,  but  without  finding 
any  arrest  of  development,  or  relief  from  pain. 

Climate,  Ave  are  inclined  to  think,  should  not  be  regarded 


460        PERSONAL  ADVENTUEES  AND  0E3EETATI0NS. 


as  remedial  in  its  effects,  even  untler  the  greatest  advan- 
tages, but  rather  as  palhative.  A  too  dry,  or  a  damp,  or  a 
variable  atmosphere,  aggravates  consmnption ;  a  softly 
dry,  equable  climate  will  be  a  favorable  circumstance  in  its 
treatment. 

In  the  Madeiras  and  Floridas,  the  popular  resorts  for  the 
consumptives  of  both  hemispheres,  and  also  in  the  Canaries 
and  Havana,  we  have  been  conversant  with  three  classes  of 
patients,  of  whom  w  e  may  speak,  as  classes,  without  com- 
mitting ourselves  to  advice. 

First :  Those  upon  whom  the  waster  was  takuig  hold, 
but  who,  by  a  timely  departure  from  an  irritating  climate,  a 
strict  regimen,  and  moderate  but  skillful  medical  attention, 
have  eluded  the  firmer  grasp,  and  are  now  in  full  prospect 
of  perfect  restoration.  The  second  class  includes  those 
who,  like  our  Madeira  friends,  waited  untU  the  disease 
became  deeply  seated  in  the  system  before  seeking  the 
effects  of  southern  gales,  to  whom  recovery  is  impossible, 
but  who,  by  strict  attention  to  diet,  dress,  and  exercise, 
and  perhaps  the  use  of  palliative  agents,  are  keeping  the 
destroyer  in  a  quiescent  state,  and  may  prolong  life  to  a 
good  old  age. 

The  tliird  class  are  those  who  left  tlieir  homes  in  a  state 
at  once  helpless  and  hopeless;  for  whom  nothing  could  be 
hoped  but  that  in  a  more  sunny  land  they  might  find  a  pas- 
sage to  the  grave,  softened  to  the  noiseless  tread ;  that  the 
remaining  days  might  be  freer  from  pain,  and  the  expiring 
breath  come  softer  and  lighter.  To  say  nothing  of  the 
folly  and  wickedness  of  deceiving  the  poor  sufferers  by 
offering  a  new  ground  of  hope,  when  friend  and  physician 
see  lliat  the  most  seiious  consequences  are  inevitable,  we 


MADEIEA.  4g2 

much  question  the  propriety  of  removal  as  a  means  of  com- 
fort  to  the  siek  one.    Could  one  of  this  class  be  transferred 
to  a  more  balmy  clime  without  the  fatigue  of  travel,  and 
surrounded  by  all  the  comforts  of  home,  life  might  be  pro- 
longed a  few  hours,  and  the  last  breathings  might  be  softer  • 
but  when  we  consider  the  effects  of  traveninir,  the  pain  of 
parting  ^vith  friends,  and  the  discomforts  of  a  new  home,  on 
nerves  and  feelings,  alas!  too  sensitive,  we  are  led' to 
question  if  the  final  hour  has  not  been  hastened,  and  the 
troubled  spirit  burdened  with  an  additional  sorrow.  To 
such,  offer  the  hopes  of  religion,  rather  than  those  of 
health.    Talk  to  them  of  the  green  fields  beyond  the  flood, 
of  the  sunlight  and  deathless  bloom  that  reign  forever  over 
the  plains  of  bliss;  of  the  beauty  of  the  city  of  God,  and  the 
hale  breezes  which  bathe  the  eternal  hills;  and  teach  them 
to  hope  for  the  life  whicli  shall  not  die,  through  the  merits 
of  a  Saviour's  passion.    Lot  tl.em  die  at  home,  where  tiie 
prayers  of  friends  shall  contiil>ute  to  sustain  them  in  tlie 
trying  hour,  and  tears  of  affection  consecrate  the  final 
resting-place  of  the   beloved.     But,  as  "Hope  sprmgs 
eternal  in  the  hectic  breast,"  the  sufferer  in  tlie  last  stages 
of  consumption  who  may  read  these  pages,  will  dwell  \Wth 
fond  desire  on  the  general  climate  of  Madeira,  and  imagine, 
that  for  him  to  breathe  its  soft  aii-s,  would  be  life  and 
health. 

In  passing  through  the  streets  of  Funchai,  in  the  evenintr, 
one  may  occasionally  meet  a  stout,  good-natured  looking 
old  gentleman,  sheltered  under  a  largo  three-cornered 
cocked  hat,  dressed  in  a  long  black  gown,  and  generally 
supported  by  three  or  four  closely  shaven  gentlemen,  drcssfd 
in  black  gowns  like  hiniselt;  but  wearing  on  their  heads 


462       FEESOXAL  AD^'ENTUKES  AND  0B3EKVATI0XS. 


small  square  caps.  As  he  moves  quietly  along  he  receives 
the  salutations  of  the  passer,  and  occasionally  a  peasant 
crosses  the  street  to  kiss  the  ring  on  the  little  finger  of  his 
left  hand. 

This,  reader,  is  the  venerable  bishop  of  the  diocese  of 
Funchal — the  spiritual  head  of  the  Christian  Church  in  these 
islands ;  and  these  gentlemen,  though  ungraceful  in  appear- 
ance, and  neither  intellectual  nor  spiritual  in  physiognomy, 
are  his  worthy  staif  and  ghostly  advisers.  The  devotees 
falling  on  their  knees,  and  lifting  their  caps  while  they  kiss 
the  sacred  seal  of  his  ring,  are  some  of  the  more  zealous  of 
his  flock,  seeking  the  good  man's  blessing.  The  bishop,  as 
rei^resented  to  us  by  his  friends,  is  "  a  most  ■worthy  man,  a 
good  judge  of  wine,  an  excellent  hand  at  cards,  a  jolly  com- 
panion, and  very  benevolent  /"  As  he  preaches  but  seldom 
— leaving  that  to  the  lower  clergy — we  could  learn  but 
little  of  his  character  in  this  respect ;  indeed,  it  is  hardly  to 
be  expected  that  a  bishop  should  condescend  to  the  com- 
mon place  of  jireaching,  and  when  it  is  done  it  is  received 
as  a  gracious  condescension. 

The  church  in  Madeira  has  not  kept  pace  in  external  rank 
and  importance  M'ith  the  political  advancement  of  the 
island,  but  has  rather  taken  a  step  backward.  Formerly, 
this  group  constituted  an  arch-ej^iscopal  see ;  now  it  is  but  a 
bishopric,  under  one  bishop.  It  numbers  one  hundred 
presbji;er  priests,  one  deacon,  and  a  number  of  clericos  in 
minoribus,  or  students  who  have  received  orders,  and  has, 
in  connection  with  the  cathedral  at  Funchal,  a  dean,  an 
arch-deacon,  three  cajionical  dignitaries,  and  twelve  canons. 

•Madeira  and  Porto  Santo  constitute  fifty  j)arishes,  which 
are  divided  into  circidos,  according  to  the  number  of  fimii- 


MADEIRA. 


463 


lies,  and  in  each  circulo  there  is  a  priest,  and  a  vestry  com- 
posed of  two  or  four  laymen,  according  to  the  population. 
The  vestry,  with  the  priest  as  chairman,  has  command  of 
the  chanties  contributed,  the  care  of  the  church  property, 
etc.  ■  That  smacks  of  "  lay  representation,"  and  sounds  a 
little  republican  !  All  the  ecclesiastical  preferments  of  im- 
portance are  made  by  the  crown,  and  from  it  the  clergy 
receive  their  support. 

TJie  standard  of  literary  attainment  among  the  pi-iests  of 
Portugal,  and  its  dependencies,  is  quite  low ;  the  require- 
ments for  the  priesthood  bemg  Latin,  dogmatic  theology, 
morals,  and  vocal  music. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  sect  in  America  whose  clergy  arc 
not  superior  to  thoui  in  general  and  scriptural  intelligence ; 
and,  so  far  as  we  have  seen,  and  we  have  seen  closely,  the 
same  comparison  holds  good  when  extended  over  Europe. 
Where  can  we  find  any  tiling  to  justify  the  jtopular  belief, 
that,  as  a  body,  the  clergy  of  tiio  Roman  Catholic  Church 
are  more  learned  than  the  clergy  of  the  Protestant  (catho- 
lic) Church?  Perhaps  it  may  be  found  in  the  superstitions 
veneration  of  the  masses  for  a  dead  language.  There  is  a 
theological  school  in  Funclial,  sui)])orted  by  its  endowment 
and  an  annual  contribution  from  the  crown.  It  averages 
about  twelve  scholars — these  mostly  from  the  lower  classes ; 
but  in  common  with  the  i)ricsts  of  ^ladcira  generally,  they 
arc  quite  moral.  Tiic  morals  of  the  people  .also  refU'cts 
some  credit  on  the  church.  The  higliest  number  of  serious 
ofFonces  known  to  occur  in  one  yearw.is  15.1,  throe  of  which 
were  murders. 

The  Protestant  Church  is  i  (  prcMciitccl  here  l)y  lln-  I'-iig- 
lish  chaplaincy,  to  which  wc  have  before  referro<1,  and  a 


464        PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


society  of  Presbyterians,  whose  liouse  of  worship  is  open  in 
the  winter  months  only.  There  is  also  a  high  clmrch 
chape],  which  departed  from  the  chaplaincy  on  some  trifling 
pretext,  and  is  now  giving  to  its  enemies  an  example  of 
that  spirit  of  division  Avhich  is  the  curse  of  Protestantism. 

There  are  in  Madeira  twenty  jwhlic  schools  in  whicli  the 
rudiments  are  taught ;  and  one,  supported  by  the  mother 
country,  Avhich  has  a  professorship  of  Latin,  logic,  and  the 
higher  mathematics ;  also  one  of  natural  right  (?)  and 
poetry,  and  one  of  commerce  and  history.  The  grammar 
department  of  this  school  is  well  attended ;  most  of  the 
other  rooms  are  scholarless. 

There  is  a  medical  school  in  Funchal,  which  supports  two 
professors,  and  is  patronized  by  females,  Avho  are  allowed 
to  graduate,  and  afterward  to  practise  in  obstetrics.  15ut 
the  croAvning  institution  of  learning  is  tlie  English  Collegi- 
ate Seminary,  under  the  direction  of  Rev.  A.  J.  D.  D'Orsey, 
formerly  of  the  Edinburgh  University,  a  finished  gentleman 
and  scholar.  The  American  officers  in  port  attended  his 
examination  two  summers  ago,  and  professed  themselves 
highly  pleased  with  the  thorough  and  varied  scholarship  of 
the  pupils.  There  is  also  a  good  grammar  school,  under  the 
direction  of  a  Mr.  "Williams,  a  naturalized  American,  Avhich 
is  extensively  patronized  by  the  citizens  of  Funchal.  Not- 
withstanding the  seeming  abundance  of  schools,  the  natives 
are  shockingly  ignorant ;  and  the  masses  must  continue  to 
be  so,  for  the  spirit  and  practice  of  the  church,  which  here 
"  rules  over  all,"  is  opposed  to  the  general  dissemination 
of  learning.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  liglit  for  tlie  select  few, 
and  darkness  for  the  vnlgus  profanum^  is  the  questionable 
policy  of  the  Church  of  Rome. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


JI  A  D  E  I  K  A  CO  X  C  L  U  D  E  D. 

A  Pedestrian  Tour-Sancta  Cruz-Macl.ico-The  Romantic  Discoverers 
—Toiling  Upward— Remembrances  of  Childhood— A  Country  Dance- 
Story  of  our  Host— Start  for  San  Antonio  dc  Sierra-Baron  San  Tedro 
—A  Morning  Walk— Prince  Adalbert  of  Prussia— Adieu  to  Madeira. 

Hatixg  obtained  a  three  days'  leave  of  absence  from  our 
worthy  commodore,  and  completed  our  viaticum,  Dr.  S. 
R.  S.  and  myself  engaged  two  stout  oarsmen  and  a  boat,  to 
take  us  from  Funchal  to  the  town  of  Sancta  Cruz,  fourteen 
miles  to  the  eastward.  Our  little  boat  passed  through  the 
heavy  surf  breaking  on  the  beach,  without  giving  us  even  a 
sprinkle,  and  then  tossing  our  oars,  and  spreading  our  tiny 
sail  to  the  strong  breeze,  our  little  ten  feet  by  four,  with  its 
freight  of  life,  fled  over  the  waves  like  a  sportive  sea-bird. 

In  an  hour  we  were  off  Brazen  Head,  in  whose  deep  and 
dark  waters  many  a  faithful  Protestant,  "  of  whom  tho 
world  was  not  worthy,"  sleeps,  entombed  among  weeds 
and  coral,  awaiting  the  "  resurrection  of  tho  just."  What 
can  the  world  think,  in  these  and  after  times,  of  tho 
Christianity  of  those  who,  while  professing  to  be  the  true 
church  of  Christ,  denied  a  burial-place,  and  the  rites  of 
sepulture,  to  the  humble  and  unoffending  child  of  another 
faith  ?  These  are  insults  to  our  common  humanity,  such  as 
men  may  not  forget,  but  in  the  forgiveness  of  which,  Pro- 
testantism will  present  superlative  claims  to  tiio  possession 
of  that  religion  whose  chief  characteristic  is  love. 
20* 


466        TERSONAL  ADVENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


Half  an  hour  more,  and  wc  were  under  tlie  Ice  of  the  surf- 
resounding  cUffs,  receiving  the  shrill  welcome  of  sea-gulls 
and  boatswain  birds;  and  by  noon  were  landed  on  the 
pebble-covered  beach. 

We  dismissed  our  pilots  with  a  dollar  each,  and  an  extra 
pistareen  for  wine,  which  usage  makes  a  part  of  the 
bargain  ;  and  proceeding  leisurely  through  the  deserted 
streets,  found  our  way  to  the  snug  little  hotel  which  over- 
looks the  town.  After  partaking  of  a  luncheon,  d  la  mode 
Anglaise — bread  and  cheese  and  beer,  to  which,  by  way  of 
celebrating  the  great  alliance,  my  companion  added  a  little 
French  brandy,  and  ordering  diimcr  to  be  ready  by  dusk, 
we  started  for  the  hills  which  overlook  Machico,  and  the 
eastei'n  extremity  of  the  island. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  town  we  passed  a  pictu- 
resque piece  of  ruins,  the  remains  of  a  convent  whose  front 
wall,  standing  almost  entire,  gives  evidence  of  the  strength 
and  beauty  of  tlie  former  edifice.  For  an  hour  or  more  we 
toiled  up  the  serpentine  road,  among  fields  and  gardens, 
where  the  peasantry  were  gathering  in  the  last  of  the  wheat 
harvest,  and  gaining  an  eminence  overlooking  the  valley  of 
Machico,  sat  down,  amid  heath  and  bramble  bushes,  to 
admire  the  scattered  village  and  its  sentinel  church,  and  to 
talk  over  the  romantic  story  coimccted  with  the  discovery 
of  the  island  and  the  settlement  here. 

Supposing  that  our  readers  have  some  of  the  genius  of 
romance,  we  will  give  them  but  the  outlines  of  this  pretty 
tale,  leaving  it  to  themselves  to  fill  up  the  interstices  of  the 
plot  and  to  furnish  the  embellishments. 

In  a  Avork  entitled  "  liclation  Ilistorique  de  la  Decou- 
verte  de  I'lsle  do  IVfiidera,"  Paris,  Klil,  the  author,  Alca- 


MADEIRA.  ^.g^ 

forada,  claims,  that  the  island  was  fii-st  discovered  by  a  pair 
of  runaway  lovers  in  the  year  1346. 

Robert  Machim,  an  Englishman  of  plebeian  origin,  fell  in 
love  with  one  Anne  D'Arfet,  a  lady  of  rank,  was  imprisoned 
by  her  father  for  his  presumption,  escaped  after  lon<r  con- 
finement, found  his  Anne  married  to  a  grand  knighl,  and 
Uving  m  a  castle  near  Bristol.    While  the  gaUant  husband 
was  absent  in  the  wars  of  his  country,  Robert  found  access 
to  his  lady-love,  and  persuaded  her  to  elope  with  him  to 
France;  they  attempted  to  cross  the  channel  in  a  small 
boat-were  driven  out  to  sea  by  a  violent  gale-were 
carried  before  it  for  ten  or  twelve  days-found  themselves 
on  the  shores  of  an  unknown  island-put  into  the  little  bay 
before  us-lived  and  loved  a  few  days  in  this  sentiment"- 
inspiring  valley,  and  died.    It  is  said  of  Anne,  that,  woman- 
like,  she  repented  of  her  choice,  and  died  of  a  broken 
heart ;  and  of  Robert,  that  he  died  shortly  after,  either 
through  grief  for  his  Anne,  or  for  the  M-ant  of  something  to 
eat.    Both  evils  were  pressing  upon  him ;  but  here  the 
history  is  rather  obscure. 

The  boatmen,  after  erecting  a  cross  over  the  graves  of 
Anne  and  Robert,  were  carried  out  to  sea  by  a  strong  wind, 
and  driven  to  the  coast  of  Morocco,  where  they  were  taken 
and  sold  as  slaves.  When  the  Portuguese  settled  this 
island,  the  grave  of  Machim  was  discovered,  and  the  cross 
over  it  contained  the  request,  that,  if  ever  the  place  should 
be  discovered  by  Christians,  they  would  build  a  church  on 
the  site  of  the  graves.  The  little  church  be  fore  us  stands 
on  that  identical  spot  (?),  and  the  remains  of  the  cross  are 
preserved  in  the  altar  as  sacred  relics. 

With  a  good  doal  of  incredulity,  we  arraigned  the  his- 


463       PEESOXAL  ADVEXTL'EES  AND  OBSEKVATIONS. 

torian  and  the  dramatis  personce  before  us,  and  satisfied 
ourselves  that  if  the  authentications  of  the  story  -were  not 
enough  to  build  history  on,  they  had  at  least  proved  them- 
selves a  good  foundation  for  a  church.  With  this  con- 
clusion, -we  picked  up  our  -n-alking-sticks,  and  started  afresh 
for  the  summit  of  the  moimtaui  before  us.  Machico — 
called  after  Machim — is  a  village  of  some  five  himdred  in 
population,  for  the  greater  part  fishermen. 

How  Uke  the  journey  of  life  was  our  ascent  to  that 
distant  summit.  As  we  advanced  in  the  tortuous  j^athway, 
new  hills  were  continually  looming  into  view,  often  steep 
and  rugged,  and  each  succeeding  one  more  trying  than  the 
former  to  the  strength  of  our  steps  and  the  courage  of  our 
hearts.  But  victory  over  one  opposition  stimulates  the 
flagging  energies  in  conflict  with  the  next ;  and  thus  we 
toiled  on,  surmounting  ridge  after  ridge,  until  the  highest 
was  gained.  Then  looking  back  on  our  journey,  the 
steepest  and  highest  hUls  that  we  had  scaled  looked  small, 
and  lesser  ones,  that  had  severely  tried  knee  and  lung,  had 
disappeared  in  the  vales  below. 

Shall  it  not  be  thus  in  life's  rugged  journey  ?  And  when 
from  a  higher,  purer,  serener  atmosphere,  we  look  down 
upon  a  world  that  we  have  overcome,  will  not  the  moun- 
tains that  once  appeared  impassable  soem  small,  and  others 
which  sorely  tried  the  strength  of  our  infant  steps,  sink  into 
the  level  of  the  plain,  far  off"  in  the  vale  of  life  ? 

Before  we  reached  the  height  from  which  the  ocean  can 
be  seen  on  both  sides  of  the  island,  the  doctor's  strength 
failed  bira ;  so  I  pressed  on  alone  for  half  a  mile  further, 
and  ascending  a  knoll  on  the  roadside,  found  myself  in 
command  of  a  landscape  of  inexpressible  grandeur.    I  was 


MADEIKA. 


469 


on  the  edge  of  an  extensive  plateau,  and  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  fields  and  hedge-rows;  the  plain  sloping  awav  to 
the  north  was  marked  by  the  church  of  San  Antonio,  and  a 
few  white  cottages  in  the  distance  ;  while  beyond,  JPico  da 
Noia  reared  its  head,  and  further  still,  the  broken  outline 
of  coast  and  the  slumbering  Atlantic.    To  the  northeast 
the  peaks  of  Clerigo  and  Castanho  showed  the  jagged  out- 
lines of  their  summits  against  the  sky  ;  to  the  north^of  east, 
the  island  of  Porto  Santo  lay  like  a  cloud  on  the  horizon, 
and  on  the  southeast,  the  barren  Dcsertas  stood,  like  giant- 
guardians  of  the  coast.    At  this  moment,  the  sun,  which 
was  fast  descending,  shone  through  an  opening  in  the  fleecy 
clouds  which  rested  on  the  westera  sky,  and  spread  a  halo 
of  light  and  beauty  over  island  and  ocean.    The  scene  was 
overwlielming  in  loveliness;  the  varied  beauty  of  fields  and 
downs,  the  silent  grandeur  of  the  distant  ocean,  the  majestic 
mountains  towering  above  the  clouds,  all  blending  in  har- 
monious oneness,  conspired  to  bewilder  the  soul  in  blissful, 
ine.vprcssible  emotions. 

"I  think,  therefore  I  am,"  is  the  evidence  of  individu.al 
existence,  as  given  by  one  of  the  fathers  of  modern  ]ihiIo- 
sophy:  I  feel,  therefore  J  crm,  was  the  sentiment  of  this 
hour.    The  feeling  was  conscious  e.\istenco. 

From  the  distant  and  grand,  I  turned  to  the  beautiful 
and  near.  The  modest  heath-blossom,  the  wild  fuschi.i 
and  the  fo.v-glove  bloomed  around  my  grassy  scat ;  and  (he 
golden  furze  blossom,  the  hare-bcll,  and  the  fern,  com- 
panions of  my  infancy,  reminded  me  of  tlioso  days  of  inno- 
cence when  I  was  a  stranger  to  tiio  world,  and  the  sorrows 
of  riper  cliildhood.  Long  years  of  varied  life  have  p-isaed 
over  me,  and  in  many  climes  I  have  been  a  stranger  an<l  a 


470       PEESOXAL  ADVEXTCEES  AND  OBSERVATIONS. 


"n-anderer,  since  I  thus  reclined  amid  these  flowei-s,  and 
made  them  the  hearei-s  of  ray  griefs  and  hopes ;  but  they 
spoke  to  me  now  in  the  same  pure  language,  and  memory 
recognized  thcii-  voices,  as  the  ear  awakens  to  long-forgotten 
strains ;  my  heart  went  back  into  the  consciousness  of 
childhood,  and  I  was  a  mother-loving  boy  again.  I  kissed 
them,  and  they  answered  me  with  purer,  sweeter  lip ;  and  I 
blessed  them  as  the  playmates  of  those  life-morning  hours 
which  can  never  return.  Then  in  the  enjoyment  which 
these  remembrances  had  softened,  as  the  slanting  rays  of 
the  sun  mellowed  the  beauty  of  the  landscape  around  me,  I 
knelt  on  the  green  turf,  and  thanked  God  for  the  beautiful 
creations  with  which  he  has  blessed  the  ruins  of  our  fallen 
world,  and  for  the  ajDi^reciation  of  that  beauty  which  he 
has  planted  in  my  own  humble  bosom.  It  was  an  hour  of 
spiritual  and  emotional  enjoyment,  that  will  live  in  memory 
forever. 

I  found  my  companion  seated  on  the  bank  of  a  mountain- 
stream,  enthusiastic  in  his  admiration  of  the  landscape, 
and  surrounded  by  a  flock  of  timid  goats,  who  had 
ai')i)roached,  seemingly  to  question  our  intrusion  on  their 
high  domain. 

Our  descent  was  rapid,  but  more  tiresome  than  the 
climbing;  night  overtook  us  just  as  we  entered  the  town, 
and  the  bright  light  and  comfortable  dinner  awaiting  us  m 
the  little  parlor  of  the  hotel,  seemed  to  bid  us  welcome. 

WliOe  sitting  in  the  portico  enjoying  our  segars  after 
dinner,  and  in  converse  m  ith  our  host  and  lady,  our  party 
was  uicreased  by  the  village  schoolmaster,  and  a  young 
lady  Avho  spoke  very  i)retty  broken  English. 

They  treated  us  to  swcel  music  fi  om  the  machete,  and 


471 


a  few  pretty,  tlioiigh  to  us  unintelligible,  songs;  after 
which  we  Avere  invited  to  a  long  room  containing  a  piano- 
forte of  very  unpiano  sound,  but  from  wliich  our  hostess, 
proving  herself  quite  an  nrfisie,  drew  forth  some  lively 
music.    Our  visitors  proposed  a  dance,  and  jumping  into 
each  other's  arms,  Avhirled  around  the  room,  d  la  June- 
^"gj  peg-top,  or  anything  else  that  spins  at  a  rate  fearful 
to  giddy  heads.     After  a  round  or  two,  tiie  young  lady 
intimated  her  willingness  to  dance  with  the  doctor,  but, 
having  no  acquaintance  with  the  Terpsichore  of  Madeira, 
my  friend  declined,  pleading  weariness.     Two  English 
songs  were  then  sung,  "  Long  Ago  »  and  "  Old  Virginny," 
in  the  latter  of  which  my  friend  joined,  in  a  fine  alto 
voice,  and  being  himself  a  Virginian,  with  a  ffusto  that 
did  credit  to  his  patriotism,  and  won  the  applause  of  tlio 
assembly. 

Finding  that  their  guests  did  not  enjoy  the  ball-room, 
our  hosts  conducted  us  to  the  parlor,  where,  among  a 
few  Englisli  books,  we  discovered  a  Bible  of  the  Ameri- 
can Bible  Society.  This  led  to  some  questions  as  to  tlio 
faith  of  our  entertainers,  and,  to  our  i)leasure  and  surprise, 
we  found  them  Protestants  and  Methodists. 

Mr.  Gousalves  then  entertained  us  with  the  story  of  his 
Protestant  life,  wliich  was  in  substance  as  follows.  Twenty- 
five  years  ago,  the  hostility  to  Protestantism  in  ]\Iadeira 
Avas  very  violent,  so  much  so,  that  it  was  not  safe  for  a  na- 
tive to  profess  any  inclination  or  favor  toward  it.  M-.iny  ol' 
the  inliabitants,  who  in  contact  with  Protestauls  cunceived 
a  liking  for  their  liiitli,  emigrated  to  the  West  Indies  and 
the  United  States,  for  the  purpose  of  seeking  a  wider  rango 
of  freedom  in  tilings  sj.iritual  and  tempoial.    Mr.  (}.  was 


472        PERSONAL  ADTENTURES  AND  OBSERVATIONS, 


amonar  those  who  emio-rated  to  the  States.  la  Penn- 
sylvania  he  fell  in  with  a  company  of  Methodists,  who  gave 
him  temporal  and  spiritual  assistance,  and  among  whom  he 
became  a  freeman  in  Christ  Jesus,  and  a  citizen  of  the  re- 
public. Failing  in  business,  and  disajipointed  in  his  expec- 
tations of  selling  his  estate  in  Madeira,  which  included  this 
hotel  and  surroundings,  he  was  compelled  to  return"  to  the 
island ;  but  he  and  his  excellent  lady  brought  Avith  them  all 
the  ardor  of  their  first  love  for  Methodism  and  the  govern- 
ment of  their  adopted  country.  It  has  astonished  me  often, 
on  meeting  with  returned  emigrants,  and  other  adopted 
citizens  of  America  living  abroad,  that  they  remain  enthu- 
siastically devoted  to  their  adojDted  institutions.  We  can 
meet  any  day  with  native  Americans  living  abroad,  who 
admire  the  social  and  civil  customs  of  the  countries  in  which 
they  live,  and,  so  far  as  they  can,  adopt  them,  expressing  a 
jDreference  for  them  over  those  of  their  own  country ;  but 
with  the  foreigner  who  has  once  imbibed  the  spirit  of  our 
social  and  political  system,  America  remains  enshrined  in 
his  heart  forever,  the  ideal  of  perfection. 

We  enjoyed  a  delightful  class-meeting  that  evening,  and 
when  we  parted  on  the  morrow,  kinder  and  warmer  wishes 
were  expressed  than  those  which  generally  pass  between 
travellers  and  hosts.  Great  Shepherd  protect  these  scat- 
tered ones ! 

The  morning  of  our  second  day's  joumcy  was  fine,  and 
l>leasantly  overcast  with  light  xilouds.  Refreshed  with 
sound  sleep  in  good  beds,  and  reinforced  by  an  excellent 
breakfast,  we  engaged  a  boy-guide,  and  set  our  faces  for 
■San  Antonio  da  Serra  and  the  town  of  St.  Ann's,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  island,  and  twenty-five  miles  distant. 


MADEIEA. 


473 


We  soon  reached  a  height  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
toAvn,  and  turned  to  take  a  farewell  look,  Santa  Cruz — 
often  called  Sancta  Cruz — is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  of  the 
island,  containing  a  population  of  fishermen,  email  farmers, 
and  a  few  of  the  middle  class  citizens,  numbering  in  all 
some  fifteen  hundred.  There  are  but  few  objects  of  interest 
in  its  vicinity,  if  we  except  the  fossil  beds  of  Canijal,  which 
we  did  not  visit,  to  our  great  disappointment,  owing  to  the 
report  of  cholera  in  that  part  of  the  island.  "We  saw  here,  for 
the  first  time,  a  fine  and  venerable  specimen  of  the  date-bear- 
ing palm,  enough  in  itself  to  repay  the  visit  of  the  naturalist. 

Our  route  now  lay  through  a  broken,  mountainous,  and 
thickly  populated  country,  of  small  fields,  and  small  cots 
embowered  in  fruit-trees.  Never  before  was  such  striking 
evidence  of  the  generosity  of  soil  and  climate.  Here  the 
pear,  M^hich  in  the  low  lands  of  the  thirty-second  degree  of 
latitude  in  our  country  is  an  insipid  and  undeveloped  fruit, 
attained  the  highest  perfection,  growing  among  plantains 
and  pine-apples.  The  fruits  of  the  temperate  and  tropical 
zones  were  vying  with  each  other  in  the  abundance  of 
fruitfulness  and  beauty,  children  of  the  same  soil  and  sun. 

Here  our  guide,  supposing  us  to  be  bewildered  as  to 
location,  and  entirely  at  his  mercy,  came  to  a  strike  for 
higher  wages.  He  demanded  twice  the  amount  for  whii-li 
he  first  engaged,  besides  sundry  glasses  of  wine.  Finding 
that  expostulation  was  vain,  wo  made  an  application  of 
walking-stick  to  that  region  of  the  cranium  where  justice 
and  veneration  arc  supposed  to  dwell,  which  had  a  wonder- 
ful and  instantaneous  efiect  on  the  gentleman's  ideas.  In  a 
moment  he  became  reconciled  to  his  bargain,  and  took  up 
his  line  of  march  in  dogged  silence. 


4:74        PEKSOXAL  ADVENTUKES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  term  Serra  is  applied  by  Portuguese  and  SiJaniards 
to  ridges  aud  table  lauds.  The  plain  or  flattened  ridge  of 
San  Antonio  da  Serra  we  reached  about  noon,  and  pro- 
ceeded across  it  in  the  direction  of  the  church  of  San  Anto- 
nio, and  the  country  seat  of  our  consul.  This  church  was 
bmlt  by  the  liberahty  of  Mr.  March,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
poor  of  this  j^arish,  actuated  by  the  worthy  motive  of  trying 
to  make  good  Catholics  of  those  who  camiot  be  made  Pro- 
testants. This  is  an  agricultural  district,  and  one  of  the 
few  spots  on  the  island  where  the  plough  can  be  used ;  but 
even  here  the  spade  and  mattock  are  the  flxvorite  instru- 
ments. The  Madeii'ans  till  their  ground  thoroughly,  dig- 
ging to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches,  and  pulverizing  Avell. 
This  will,  in  part,  account  for  their  abundant  harvests. 

Being  now  near  the  residence  of  Mr.  March,  Avhere  a 
warm  welcome  and  a  good  dinner  awaited  us,  we  dismissed 
om*  guide  with  the  promised  fee  and  a  word  of  advice  as  to 
his  treatment  of  American  travellers  hereafter.  He  accepted 
both  gratefully,  and  turned  homeward  Avith  a  cheerful  step. 
At  Mr.  March's  we  found  the  Baron  San  Pedro,  his  lady, 
and  their  charming  and  accomplished  daughters,  making  a 
visit  to  our  consul.  My  compafjnon  de  voyage  was  soon 
engaged  in  a  petit  flirtation  with  the  ladies,  and  so  pleased 
with  the  jM-ctty  language,  and  prettier  figure,  and  beautiful 
manners  of  one  of  the  party,  that  my  hopes  of  getting  to 
St.  Ann's  that  night  were  fast  dying  away.  After  dinner, 
however,  the  party  left,  and  we  too  were  preparing  to  take 
up  our  journey,  when  Mr.  M.  informed  us  that  he  had  just 
received  a  note  from  our  commodore  announcing  his  inten- 
tion to  sail  on  the  morrow,  as  the  cholera  had  made  its  ap- 
pearance in  Fuuchal.    We  therefore  contented  ourselves  to 


MADEIRA. 


475 


remain  ^rith  our  friend  for  the  night,  pui-posiug  to  start  for 
Funchal  a  fe\^  hours  before  day  on  the  foUowing  morning. 

We  spent  the  evening  in  walking  through  the  beautiful 
grounds,  and  studying  the  varied  flora  and  shrubbery.  Sit- 
ting in  a  spacious  bower  surrounded  by  a  hedge,  or  wall,  of 
box,  ten  feet  high,  and  impenious  to  light,  Mr.  M.  re- 
marked: "This  is  the  place  where  Dr.  Kelly,  a  retired 
surgeon  of  the  British  army,  used  to  preach  Protestantism 
to  the  natives."    Dr.  K.  made  many  converts  in  this  parish, 
some  of  whom  still  remain.  He  was  driven  from  the  island, 
with  the  loss  of  a  valuable  library,  and  other  personal 
effects,  destroyed  by  an  infuriated  mob,  but  for  which  his 
government  saw  that  he  was  compensated  by  the  goveni- 
ment  of  Madeira.   Our  host,  who  must  be  known  in  private 
life  to  be  fully  appreciated,  is  a  model  American  gentleman, 
rendered  the  evening  perfectly  delightful,  an<l  in  the  full 
tide  of  social  enjoyment,  we  forgot  that  we  were  in  the 
palace  of  a  bachelor.    The  doctor  was  less  conununicative 
than  usual,  for  his  thoughts  were  with  the  syiph-like  little 
creature  who  was  borne  that  evening  far  over  the  mountains, 
but  who,  before  leaving,  kindled  a  fire  in  his  heart  that  n.ay 
smolder  many  a  year. 

At  four  next  morning  we  were  roused  from  drcainlcv-. 
sleep  by  the  notes  of  a  clarionet  discoursing  "Hail  Colum- 
bia ;"  the  sound  was  shrill  to  the  ear  then,  but  it  makes 
sweet  music  to  the  memory  now.  The  stars  were  sliiiiing 
brightly,  and  the  air  was  quite  cool,  but  we  buttoned  up 
our  coats  and  resolutely  commenced  to  ascend  the  liigh 
range  which  divided  us  from  our  breakfiust.  As  we  .idvanccd 
the  darkness  was  fiist  chantrincr  into  the  crrov  of  mornin"': 
little  birds  started  from  the  broom  and  gorse  as  wo  p:i«-;od, 


476        PERSONAL  ADVENTUKES  AKD  OBSERVATIONS. 


chirping  their  sakitation  to  the  rising  day ;  and  all  nature 
seemed  waking  into  ane^y  life.  On  attaining  an  elevation  of 
three  thousand  feet,  the  atmosphere  was  sensibly  more  rare 
than  that  to  which  we  had  been  accustomed,  and  as  our 
guide,  notAvithstanding  his  load  of  breakfast  materials,  tra- 
velled quite  fast,  our  breathing  was  attended  with  unplea- 
sant sensations. 

On  gaining  the  summit  of  a  very  steep  hill  we  rested 
awhile  to  breathe  and  watch  the  rising  sun,  whose  upper 
limb  was  now  visible  above  the  cumuli  of  white  clouds  which 
obscured  the  true  horizon.  The  few  clouds  that  floated 
above  us  reflected  his  rays  in  brightest  roseate ;  while  be- 
neath us  a  field  of  cloud,  covering  much  of  the  island,  and 
stretchmg  far  over  the  ocean,  responded  to  Aurora's  blushes  / 
in  a  thousand  shades  of  red  and  gold.  The  peaks  of  the 
Descrtas,  and  far  ofi"  Porto  Santo,  peered  above  this  plain, 
like  dark  rocks  above  a  foam-covered  ocean,  while  here  and 
there  openings  in  it  revealed  the  deep  Atlantic,  reflecting 
from  its  blue  bosom  the  red  hues  of  morning  in  warmest 
purple  ;  requiring  but  little  efibrt  of  imagination  to  fancy  it 
a  sea  of  molten  amethyst.  Advancing  upward  we  met 
sleepy -looking  boys  driving  flocks  of  goats  to  some  neigh- 
boring village  to  be  milked ;  and  we  were  overtaken  by  Mr. 
March,  who  followed  on  horseback,  just  as  we  were  opening 
the  finest  view  of  the  island.  We  were  forty-five  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  Pico  Ruivo,  the  crown  of  Madeira, 
on  our  right,  rearing  its  head  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  us. 
Between  us  and  the  Peak  was  a  deep  ravine,  running  off  to 
the  north,  which  contains  the  bed  of  llibero  Frio,  now  dry, 
but  in  the  rainy  season,  and  when  the  snows  are  melting  in 
the  spring,  it  is  a  large  and  impetuous  river.  St.  Ann's,  and 


MADEIRA,  4,77 

Faya],  were  distinctly  visible,  with  much  of  the  northern 
shore,  so  that,  notwithstanding  our  precipitate  return,  we 
Avere  not  entirely  disappointed  in  our  desire  to  see  those 
places. 

These  heights  are  covered  with  short  grass  and  green 
thick  moss,  affording  good  pasturage  to  sheep  and  goats 
They  reminded  us  of  the  sheep-commons  of  England  and 
Wales  ;  and  in  treading  the  soft  carpet,  bedecked  with  tiny 
wild-flowers,  scenes  long  forgotten  were  brilliantly  revived 
As  we  neared  the  Poizo,  we  passed  several  hardy-looking 
women,  dressed  in  coarse  linsey-woolseys,  gathering  fagots ; 
and  as,  to  my  ear,  the  Portuguese  sounds  much  like  Irish  I 
imagmed  for  a  moment  that  I  was  again  among  the  heath- 
gatherers  of  the  south  of  Ireland.    But  the  Moorish,  and 
sometimes,  traces  of  the  Ethiopian,  in  the  features  of  the 
peasantry,  served  to  remind  us  that  this  is  not  the  home  of 
the  indomitable  Celt.    We  breakfasted  heartilv  at  the  Poize, 
ou  the  ample  basketful  provided  by  Mr.  M. ;  and  as  we  sat 
down  to  the  well-furnished  table,  we  thought  that  the  scene 
before  us  was  not  the  least  interesting  of  the  morning.  A 
walk  of  six  mUes  up  steep  hills  is  a  wonderful  ai)petizer?  The 
house— the  Poiso-was  built  as  a  house  of  refuge,  and  an- 
swers the  purpose  of  a  little  Saint  Bernard  to  those  who  may 
bo  overtaken  by  the  heavy  snows  which  fall  on  (hose  moun- 
tains in  winter. 

Fresh  and  invigorated,  we  started  again,  and  in  loss  than 
an  hour  reached  the  heiglit  overiooking  Funchal.  The  beau- 
tiful Jamestown  was  still  riding  at  anchor,  but  I)y  hor  crossed 
yards  we  could  perceive  that  she  was  j.roparing  for  soa ; 
and,  like  an  impatient  racer,  eager  for  the  u  ord  which  should 
loose  her  reins.    At  half  a  mile  above  Mount  Church  wo 


478        PEESONAL  ADVENTIJEES  AJhD  OBSERVATIONS. 


engaged  a  haud-slcclge,  draw  by  three  stout  boys,  and  went 
down  to  the  city  at  the  rate  of  twenty  cents,  and  eight 
minutes  to  the  mile. 

We  found  the  city  in  coimnotion.  Bells  were  ringing  to 
call  the  faithful  to  prayer  for  deliverance  froni  the  cholera  ; 
and  bugles  were  sounding  to  muster  the  troojis  to  receive 
his  highness  Prince  Adalbert  of  Prussia,  who  arrived  that 
morning  in  the  harbor.  We  reported  ourselves  to  the  com- 
modore at  the  consulate,  who  expressed  his  intention  of 
sailing  immediately  after  calling  on  the  prince.  We  saw 
that  it  was  our  last  day  in  Madeira,  so  we  hastened  to  make 
farewell  calls  on  our  many  friends — our  clear-headed,  me- 
taphysical Scotch  friend,  Mr.  Yates,  of  the  English  hotel, 
John  Mason,  of  the  book-store,  the  ready  and  obliging  friend 
of  the  American  officer  ;  friends  Nuno  and  Mi-.  Carter  of  the 
consulate ;  Robert  Ryan,  Esq.,  our  vice-consul,  and  liis 
amiable  and  accomplished  lady ;  Rev.  A.  J.  D'Orscy,  and 
his  lovely  flxmily ;  and  at  last,  though  not  least,  our  beloved 
consul,  J.  Howard  March,  friends  whose  kindness  contributed 
to  the  enjoyment  of  our  sojourn  among  them,  and  whose 
names  shall  live  in  memory  for  ever. 

Our  departure  was  deferred  until  the  morrow,  as  Prince 
Adalbert  e.vprcssed  a  wish  to  visit  our  ship.  In  the  morning 
he  came.  The  officers  in  full  undress,  and  the  marines  in 
full  dress,  were  drawn  ujj  to  receive  him,  and  he  was  much 
pleased  with  the  reception.  He  inspected  the  ship  closely, 
and  exiiressed  much  delight  in  the  beauty  and  order  of  her 
appointments. 

The  prince  is  a  plain,  substantial-looking  man  ;  large  and 
stout,  and  about  forty  years  of  age.  He  is  admiral  in  chief 
of  the  Prussian  navy,  and  our  officers  who  know  him  s.ay 


that  he  is  a  good  saUor  and  a  polished  gentleman.  We  were 
much  pleased  with  his  manners  and  obsei-vatious. 

At  three,  o'clock  we  were  under  weigh,  and  at  night-fall 
saw  ^ladeira  for  the  last  time.    Owing  to  the  fact  that  we 
here  spent  some  of  the  happiest  moments  of  a  weary  crui.e 
we  left  the  lovely  island,  the  emerald  bosom-gem  of  the  At- 
lantic, with  a  degree  of  sadiress.    The  plague  that  was  then 
makmg  its  appearance  did  not  last  long,  but  it  swept  away 
more  than  twelve  thousand  of  its  dense  population;  and  it 
serves  to  remind  us,  that  in  our  fallen  world  there  is  no 
paradise.    Blest  Island !  may  the  clustering  vine  yet  clothe 
thy  hills  with  beauty,  and  of  its  fatness  make  thy  children 
glad,  and  thy  valleys,  teeming  M-ith  corn,  bless  thy  poor 
with  bread  !    Be  thy  skies  as  clear,  and  the  airs  that  bathe 
thy  momitams  and  shores  as  pure  and  balmy  as  when  they 
breathed  on  u.s !    Above  all,  may  the  teachin-s  of  a  higher 
and  more  spiritual  Christianity  bless  thy  people  with  surer 
hope  and  hoUer  comforts,  and  lead  them  to  a  purer  worship 
of  the  Eternal  Father ! 


"  Shades  of  evening  close  not  o'er  us, 

Leave  our  lonely  bark  awhile  ; 
Morn,  alas!  will  not  restore  us. 

Yonder  dim  and  distant  isle. 
Through  the  mist  that  floats  above 

Faintly  sounds  the  vesper  bell. 
As  a  voice  from  those  who  love  us, 

Kindly  saying.  Fare  ye  well !" 


THE  EXD. 


§£rbg  &  lachson's  ^ublicalions. 


To  the  list  of  John  Milton  and  other  'blind  men  eloquent,'  mast  be  added  ti*  name  of  Willui 
llKNur  iliLBViiS."— London  Athenaeum.. 

AXS  AUTOBIOGRAPHY  OF  DEEP  IITTEREST ! 

For  Sale  by  Booksellers,  Preachers,  Culportmrs,  and  Book  Agenti 
generally. 

TE]^  YEARS  OF  PREACHER  LIFE; 

OR,  CHAPTERS  FROM  AN  AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 
BY    WILLIAM    HEN'E.Y    TvX  I X.  33  XJ  R 

AOTHOR  OK  "  THE  Klf  LE    AXE,  AND  SADDLE-BAGS." 

One  neat  12mo.  volume.  Price,  One  Dollar. 

"  There  was  a  time  when  meadow,  prove  and  stream, 
The  ciirlli,  and  every  common  sight, 

To  nie  did  seera 
Apparelled  in  celestial  liglit, 
The  gloiy  and  ihe  freshness  ol'  a  dream." 

LIST  OF  THE  CONTEKTS  (IN  PART). 


Early  Ueminiscence.    The  Accident. 
The  t»ick  Chamber.    Surgical  Consultation. 
Two  Years'  Imprisonment. 
Land  of  the  Set.ing  Sun. 
"  There  were  Giants  in  those  daj'S." 
Tlie  Backwoods  Preacher. 
The  SadiUe-bags  taken  up. 
Let  no  Man  Despise  thy  Vouth. 
A  Western  Wedding. 
A,  Western  Camp-.Meeting. 
An  Exhorter  in  a  Dilemma. 
Liberality  of  Methodists. 
The  Last  Scene  of  Conference. 
Walking  the  Hospital. 
Cry  Aloud  and  Spare  not.    A  Sermon  on 
Deck. 

Its  unevpected  Rewards. 
Heavy  I'urse  and  Congression.il  Chaplain. 
Necessities  for  Extempore  Spealdng. 
A  Stump  Speech  Dcscril)ed. 
Value  of  the  Eye  in  an  Orator. 
Congress  and  two  of  its  Young  Men. 
Congressional  Eloquence. 
S'.ephen  A.  Douglas. 
Alexander  11.  Stephens. 
Entering  the  Senate  Chamber. 
Memories  of  the  Great  Departed. 
A'ithor's  First  I'rayer  iu  Congress. 


Uenry  Cl.ay.   John  C.  Calhoun.  Daniel 

Webster. 
Social  Life  in  W.ashington. 
Attractions  of  tlie  Cnpital. 
Power  of  Memory.    Influence  of  Women. 
A  Death-bed  Summons.    Marriage  of  tht 

Author. 

Chicago  in  1S41, 1840,  and  1S55. 
A  Night  Ride  in  a  Deluge.    Narrow  Escape. 
The  Dying  I'reacl.er. 
Grace  in  *'  Spots."    Life  on  Wheels. 
Life  on  the  Jlississippi    A  Boat  Race. 
Passengers  excited.    S.  S.  Prentiss. 
Phelps  the  Desperado.    Riding  the  Circuit. 
Sojourn  in  New  Orleans. 
Alabama  Scencrv.    A  Southern  Ilome. 
Tribute  to  the  South. 
Author  Charged  with  Heresy. 
Stage  Coach  Dialogue.  A  Eearful  Spectacle. 
Strange  Superstition.     The  Anxious  Mo- 
ment. 

Homage  to  Lftdles.    Southern  Hospitality 

Southern  Matron.    Soulhorn  Liteiature. 

Old  Friends  and  Pleasant  Faces. 

The  Pioneer  I'leacher.    Western  Cook'ry. 

A  Night  Scene  in  a  Village  Store. 

Indisposition  of  the  Autiior. 

Returns  to  New  York.    The  Infant's  Cry. 


'        The  above  will  be  sent  by  mail,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price 

DERBY  &  JACKSON,  PunLisiiicns, 

110  Nassau  St.,  Neiv  York. 


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